Timing Belt, Water Pump, Pulleys, & Seals - 1MZFE Lexus ES300 Redo Project - Stage 1
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- This video is the first stage of a Lexus ES300 (3rd Generation) make over project and will show you, step-by-step, how to replace the timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, cam and crank seals. This car has over 160K miles, the timing belt had slipped, the water pump and pulleys seized, and many parts were either worn out or in need of replacement. The V6 1MZFE engine is shared with other Toyota based vehicles such as the: Camry V6, Solara V6, Highlander V6, Sienna, Avalon and Lexus RX300. Since the ES 300 engine ( 1MZFE) is shared with other Toyota vehicles, the service being performed on this vehicle can be duplicated on the V6 Camry, Avalon, Solara and other Toyota vehicles as well. This engine is not VVTI (valve interference engine found in the 3MZFE) so a broken timing belt can be installed with a new belt without worry of internal engine damage such as bent valves. To perform this procedure on the 3MZFE engine, refer to these videos (Sienna & Camry 3MZFE):
• Toyota Sienna V6 3MZ-F...
• Toyota Camry V6 3MZ-FE...
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/HardlyMoving?locale...
Toyota 1MZFE Parts and Specialty Tool:
Timing Belt & Water Pump Component Kit (Good kit … comes with OEM Mitsuboshi Timing Belt, Aisin Water Pump & GMB Bearings):
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Aisin TKT-024 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
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Toyota 90311-38034 Seal, Type T Oil (Cam Seal)
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Toyota 90311-40022 Type-T Engine Crankshaft Oil Seal
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Bando OEM Power Steering Belt:
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Bando OEM Alternator / AC Belt:
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Torque Strut Rod:
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DEWALT DW4901 1-Inch Crimped End Wire Brush:
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22 mm High Mass Harmonic Balancer Bolt Removal Socket
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OEMTOOLS High Mass 6 Piece Crank Bolt Socket Set, 6 Pack
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Camshaft Seal Removal Tool:
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Camshaft Seal Installation Tool:
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Telescoping 2" Round Inspection Mirror:
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Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease:
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Chain Strap Wrench:
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Right Angle Portable Electric Drill (for the Wire Cup Brush):
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Wire Cup Brush:
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Oxygen Sensor Wrench:
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If you do not feel comfortable using a chain strap wrench to remove the camshaft pulley bolt, you can try using a universal pulley holder tool. You'll need to use this in conjunction with a "cheater bar".
OTC Universal Pulley Holder:
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Harmonic Balancer Puller Tool:
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Star / E Socket Set:
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Toyota Antifreeze Coolant:
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Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel:
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Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
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As an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
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Proud Lexus owner here! and I can say that nothing beats the quality build and long term performance of my 2005 ES330!!! Amazing
It's a tough car with a tough engine and transmission!
I love all of your videos. Straight to the point with plenty of detail. You don't waste viewers time with things like how to jack up a vehicle or a life story.
Thanks for supporting our channel!
Excellent how to! I will likely have to watch it over and over again before I even start then a few times to get it done. Thanks again!
Would like to commend you on the video, I showed this to a friend that wants to replace his own timing belt / pump / pullies etc. I have been wrenching for over 30+ years and have seen a lot of stupid repair videos, you did a really nice job on this. One comment- consider wearing gloves when using the chemicals, you will wish you had 20 years down the road, or maybe consider making videos instead of getting greasy. Good Job! I will pass this on to any friends that need guidance for T-belt on 1MZFE.
Thanks for your comment! This timing belt job was done down South in the middle of summer at over 90 degrees in the shade with humidity. In 2 minutes or less, perspiration "sweet" will begin pouring out of your gloves and start dripping on everything you're handling. Also, after you take the gloves off, you're skin will look all wrinkly like you've been in a swimming pool for 2 hours. Then when your gloves tear and you try to slip on a new pair, without talcum powder, you won't be able to get them on. If you're taking a break, slip the gloves off and later try to put them back on ... forget it if there's residual moisture in the glove. So while I'm letting those gloves dry out, I have to slip on a new pair. Don't get me wrong. I hate washing / brushing out grease out of my finger nails; but wearing and using gloves in heat and humidity is worse than working with greasy hands. When cleaning my hands, I've found dish detergent to work the best with a nylon bristle brush. I then coat my hands with olive oil or black seed oil to get the moisture back into my hands.
@@hardlymovingpro I understand, but still, just for the short bits when you are using degreaser / Brake-clean protect you skin..
I really like how in-depth you are with these videos, not only with the disassembly, but reassembly as well. I had this done on my 01 ES300 a while back, this video gave me confidence in knowing my $1000 I spent on having it done was well spent lol! I don't think I would ever do this myself, but I it's very interesting to see how it's done. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your post and comment Zach! With the right attitude, patience, parts and tools, anyone can do it. What you saw in this video is how it's pretty much professionally done. All these powered hand tools make the job go faster and easier.
Thank you so much for your time and effort in making these videos. With the help of this one and your other videos, I was able to do timing belt/water pump and valve cover gaskets on my '95 es300.
Thank you so much!!!
Great news and glad you found the videos to be helpful!
@@hardlymovingpro lm stumped at the first hurdle. how do you stop the crank from turning when taking the crank bolt off. I'm guessing brace it somewhere? appreciate the great video. wish me luck!!
you guys are so professional....I could never figure this thing out...Thank you for sharing....
No problem!
Awesome! Thank you so much for posting these videos. I'm about to attempt this with my 98 Avalon which has developed a major rattle at 1.5k-2.25k rpm that I've attributed to the tensioner and possibly other pulleys. I will definitely be referring to this video during the process!
You're welcome and enjoy! With these videos, the right tools and patience, you'll save money and feel a great sense of accomplishment after you've done the job yourself!
I have the same problem on my 1996 Avalon. What was the cause of your rattle?
I have a ticking sound within that rpm range. Had your rattle gone away after your TB JOB?
@@FEETLE Yes. The issue was the belt tensioner. The belt was so loose that it was flapping against the plastic cover. That's what all that noise was at that rpm range. I ended up replacing the water pump, idler pulley, tensioner and cam/crank seals while I was in there, but the noise was 100% the tensioner.
Nice work, that was a hell of a job! I have to do the same thing on my Australian 2003 Avalon (same as 1994-1999 US model). Looks fun.
Thanks for you comment! I figured as long as the previous owner didn't neglect engine oil changes, I had a good chance of bringing the car back to life ... just had to put in new parts, time and effort and crossed my fingers when I turned the ignition key.
Thanks so much for video and tips & other video & detailed write-ups on the 1MZFE Engine. I will use this info to solve oil leak issue on our 1996 Camry and I beleive I have same engine in 2000 RX 300. Very helpful.
Your welcome and my pleasure. The 1MZFE is used on your 96' Camry and 00' RX.
I always marvel at the repair work people like you do on engines and transmissions. It's like a surgeon repairing a body. Not something everyone is wired to do.
Thanks! Takes both patience and perseverance.
Pretty hard work on ones like that. Way to go!
I may have bought a problem child so your videos are like a blessing! I’ll likely do quite a few of these so I don’t think I’ll be bored and now I won’t be scratching my head as much either! Thanks again! Much love brother!
ES300 is a worthwhile car to keep running.
Awesome video! Recently inherited a 94 es300 that will need this type of work soon. The mileage is over 304k and the car does need lots of TLC. Just finished doing all motor and transmission mounts. The rear motor mount was a pain the arse! I had to remove the passenger cv axle just to have access and remove the entire mount. Took it a machine shop to remove the old bushing and replace it with a new motor mount bushing. Reinstalled the mount and clunking is gone when put in reverse...
Good deal! Can't go wrong with the ES300. A very solid car. Keep up with the maintenance, the car will last forever.
Alright - finally got this done for my brother. Bought the big beef socket and it worked w/ my 1/2" pneumatic impact w/ 10 gallon compressor. It came off in two seconds flat when prior to this we spent several hours trying all sorts of methods to remove the crank bolt. This job kind of kicked our rears as we had to fabricate a few special tools but we replaced both cam seals, water pump, all the pulleys, tensioner and the timing belt. Learned a lot - thanks to your video - but also got our tails handed to us - I won't tell you how long this took us - but the experience gained will certainly be useful for the next time around. Okay, okay, it took 17 hours over the course of two days :-) Including tool fabrication (cam seal insertion tool and cam sprocket holder tool) and a couple of runs into town for cam seals - I boogered up one of the seals and had to go back to two different stores to find another the second time around.
Hey .. live and learn... but you got her done! You could have used a paint can lid remover for the seals ... or jammed a thin tip screw driver and a pick tool (if strong enough) to pull it out. Holding the cam pulley ... a chain strap wrench is the way to go ... guarantee you'll use it again on another job. Can use PVC piping to press in the cam seals.
@@hardlymovingpro , yeah well, I fabricated a cam sprocket holder for about $10 which worked really well and I actually did use an 1 1/4" cpvc coupling chopped down to install the cam seal. It was the hammering which I think ruined it as the inside of the seal started to come out as it went on so I got some bar stock, drilled a hole big enough for the original bolt to go through and used that on the outside of the cpvc coupling - it's basically the same thing as the tool you use in the video and the seals went on so beautiful after that that I was about to shed a tear LOL. My other brother drives a '99 camry w/ the same motor and he needs a timing belt done too so i think I can do the next one a whooole lot quicker ;)
Good work with the custom fabricated tools! The thing with me is that I do so many of these TB jobs I just spend the $$$ for the professional tools. You do enough of these jobs with the right tools, you'd be surprised how fast you can complete the job. The last 1MZFE job took me 3.5 hrs. Not bragging ... do it enough times, anyone will get fast at it.
@@hardlymovingpro , hey have you ever come across after market cam seals that don't seat flush being slightly too thick? We used a felpro cam seal set and we bottomed out the seals and they still stuck out about a 1/16". It's not leaking or anything but was wondering if you've ever come across this before?
I've seen this happen before. It's good to compare the old seal with the new one before installing it.
Hey man, I'm here simply to expresa my gratitud for this content. I own a 98 es 300 and did this particular overhaul. My car runs beautifully. I had intended to replace the head gaskets while I was at it but I was strapped for time and also concluded that head gaskets are an even bigger job than this. That said, have an awesome day, brother. Peace.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Amazing rescue! So much great tools and detailed good work! I’m sure the ES is happy! This would all cost a fortune at a mechanic and it wouldn’t be worth it. So the DIY along with cleaning makes this a great resto.
You are absolutely right and it was very rewarding bringing it back to life.
Hardly Moving Productions ... So How Much Would This Job Cost At A Shop If I Had Brought A 2000 Es 300 with 89,000 miles and I just wanted to do all this so I’ll know it’s done?
this video is very helpful I need to do all that to my 1997 lexus es300 I'm watching this video 3 times already cuz have to do this thanks
You are a very good mechanic - a very clean person, just like me. The car owner must be very happy with your work.
Thanks for your comment Yes ... the owner is very happy. His previous car was a VW Jetta and has no regrets getting rid of it for the ES300.
I like the way you clean everything very nice and a very excellent job thanks for a very well done video.
Thanks. Spent the extra time to clean things up. Afterwards I did a power wash to clean the engine bay some more. Here's the video if you're interested:
czcams.com/video/jTO_RHiydQ0/video.html
just bought one of these gonna keep all these videos bookmarked thanks alot man youre doing gods work
Thanks ... appreciate your post and have fun with your ES300 ... it's a great car!
Thanks for making this, this is one of the most helpful how to videos I’ve watched on this particular job. I’ve got this same car with over 300k on it with the original timing belt. I love my Lexus, I’ve had it many years so it has some sentimental value to me, and rather than just junking it I’m actually wanting to start rebuilding it now to try and make it run and drive as good as it use to. I’ve got gaskets leaking like crazy including both valve covers, and my local mechanic quoted me 1,500 dollars just to change the timing belt alone, I’ve been afraid to tackle it myself thinking it will be extremely complicated to work on, but after watching this I think I can do it lol.
Hey ... thanks for the post and glad you liked it! Yes ... you can do it. Just make a small investment with some tools that you might not use again but it'll be a hell of a lot cheaper than paying someone $1,500. Don't make the mistake on putting time limits on completing the work. If you get frustrated, just walk away and get your composure back. If it takes 2 days or a week to complete the job, so be it. Check out the other videos I put out on the ES300!
Id just pay the man do the simplier stuff.. Get him to do mine..
Best video I EVER seen on replacement of water pump and timing chain replacement
Thanks!
Wow. Hell of a task. You are a great mechanic. Im highly impressed with your attention to detail. The people who owned that car didnt give a f#%& about that thing. Good luck with the Lex.
Thanks! Couldn't finish the redo project since one of my customers insisted on buying it.
That's impressive!
Amazing video, thank you for sharing!
Glad you liked it!
Brilliant! Like surgery... I really want to purchase a vintage '01 ES 300 and this gives me a tad more confidence of what to expect for repairs. Thanks HMP!
Glad you like the video! Yes ... the ES300 is a great automobile on a Camry / Avalon chassis with virtually the same reliable V6 engine and Aisin transmission. The separation from Toyota is better quality paint, more standard creature comforts, durable and better interior material and superb sound deadening. Resale value with gen 3 is low (a few thousand $'s), and if you watch the rest of the ES300 redo videos, you can do the work yourself to bring the car back to almost new condition with nominal cost in parts.
Wow! You actually commented. You should open a shop in Philadelphia so I have a reason to buy all the vintage cars and still be able to afford to live decently. Bahahaha! Again, it was so sharp that you replied. Thanks again HMP!
Thanks ... so far no big deal answering questions ... less than a half dozen per day ... like helping people who need a little DIY help. Like providing a public service outside of corp America. I get a little bit of CZcams ad revenue and product sales comission from Amazon.
Thanks for the lesson....my son and I finished his 1999 Solara using this video only......240k on the clock and rolling for more
Hey ... good for you and congratuations! Ready to move on to the suspension?
My 1999 Solara with the four-speed automatic has a lot of lash in the transaxle shifting from reverse to drive out of park. Are you having this problem? I only have $185,000 MI.
Start with a trans fluid flush. See if that helps.
Very helpful video; thanks! The neglect that car had suffered is amazing. Suggest trying Purple Power for de-greasing; less odor.
Thanks ... I use something similar to Purple Power sold at Dollar Tree. One quart, one dollar. The stuff I used in the video was a Walmart brand degreaser. What I like about it is it's water based. Here's the video where I power washed the engine bay:
czcams.com/video/jTO_RHiydQ0/video.html
EXCELLENT SERIES ON A LEXUS. #RESTORING A LEXUS : STAGES 1-6 DOCUMENTARY
Thanks!
Best mechanic
wow-what job! glad I saw this-waaaay too much of a job for an old man-thank you so much!
Yup ... it was a real mess with oil all over the place. Normally not that big of a job if there weren't any problems.
Very detailed but fast,I'm going to have to take a second look or three but very well done! Subscribed!
Glad you liked it! We keep our videos simple, straight to the point, with no fluff to put you asleep.
Love your videos brother no fluff, clear concise information hands down the best videos i’ve ever seen on working on cars. This is my first vehicle and I can’t afford to get it worked on so with your help i’ve already managed to replace the control arm, motor mount, pcv valve and other small things. Coming from never having worked on a car your videos were a godsend.
But i’m pulling my hair out because I just can’t get my power steering belt on. I loosened the tensioner as far as I could, made sure I had the correct belt, and i have spent hours fidgeting with a pry bar to no avail.
Also recently my serpentine belt has started to make a high pitched whirring noise which gets better when i spray the belt with water, the alternator pulley also gets hot to the touch within just 1 minute of running the vehicle. I’m assuming this is because I have failed to align the belt properly and it is either too loose or too tight. Loosening the belt gets rid of the noise until i go past 1.5RPMS on the dash, and tightening it just seems to make the issue worse as of right now. The car hasn’t been driven in roughly a month or so as It’s been quite the project getting all this stuff done myself with rudimentary tools. But i digress
I would be in your debt if you could describe to me how to get my power steering belt on, if you’d be willing to do a video call with me so that I may show you exactly where i’m struggling I would be glad to compensate you for your time.
Thank you and god bless.
After loosen the ps tensioner, apply light hammer taps on the ps pump to make it move a little bit more. If having problems installing a new belt, mount the belt on the balancer pulley first and get mount as much as you can on the ps pulley. Get a box wrench and turn the ps pump pulley in the direction you want the remainder of the belt the slip on. The forced rotation of the pulley will force the belt on. Belt noise is the result of a loose belt, worn belt or one of the pulleys that the belt is driving (i.e. alternator, ac compressor) has a worn out bearing that's making the pulley cock eyed.
@@hardlymovingpro Hey! I got the ps belt on shortly after writing that comment, i had spent a cumulative 8 hours on it but i rewatched your videos and just went in fresh and, after just messing with it for 20 minutes i ended up getting it on easily.
Now it’s just leaking a bit so i gotta fix that but that’s because of my own oversights that i’ve already identified. (Not putting both crushers on the banjo bolt for PS Pump, Missing inline O-ring for low pressure hose).
Genuinely thank you dude you are the GOAT 🐐, the gold standard of mechanic videos you’ve saved a young broke man’s life 😅
@@hardlymovingpro you should have courses on masterclass skillshare etc, on how to record a good DIY video. That skill is indispensable and it transcends cars, i’m sure you don’t mind the “obscurity” but I do, it’s to the detriment of the world my g!
@Maestro-gh2ei Thanks! Social media sites like youtube allows people to spread their knowledge, experiences and wisdom without certifications and degrees. Without them I wouldn't be considered for a teaching position.
Thank you so much your video helped out a lot just wish that you would have told me to mark the belt and camshafts but everything came out just perfect
Good news and happy it all worked out for you!
Thanks very much for this - need to do the timing belt on my car. My car is the 2005 avalon - made in australia but has the 1mz-fe engine (tooled and manufactured from the early toyota usa design). I was fascinated with your video, like a deer in the headlights, trying to tell myself i can do this - I can do this - lol. What I will do is remove the top cover and see what's going on. Looks like it's an area that may need attention. Loved seeing the tools you used and it was a clear video. thanks again !
Thanks for your post and comments! Here's another timing belt / water pump video I did specific to the Avalon: czcams.com/video/Y7WLtDkcAp0/video.html
@@hardlymovingpro Cheers - Great video. I think I will try the whole thing!!! Appreciate your time !
I’m doing this job as we speak thanks to this video!!! Thanks so much!
Good luck!!
Thanks, I did the same job on a '98 Sienna about 3 months ago, ran great but customer wrecked it 3 days later. He had it towed to my place, decided he wasn't going to fix it, gave it to me. I found a 2001 Solara with a blown engine for 400 on CL. Bought it, pulled the engine with harness, put it on the Sienna engine then reinstalled. Made sure everything was right, changed out passenger CV axle because it was trashed and I'd installed new on the van, also replaced sway bar links and everything else. Started first touch of the key. drove it for 2 days then noticed a water leak, popped the hood and found the plastic inlet upper radiator hose had broke. Plastic just corroded. Replaced the radiator with new.
The body on this Solara is perfect, they had just put new tires on it and my girl detailed it. Then I took it for another drive, stuck my foot in it and it stalled. I went back checking everything - had spark, fuel, compression, no codes. Seemed like it would almost start, but wouldn't. Anyway, my compression gauge had tested hundreds of cars and though it seemed all 6 were good, one seemed a little low. Today I pick up a new gauge and all different readings then before.The front 3 were my main concern, and I've just tested one because of the rear because they are a PITA. 120,90, 150. So I squirted a little oil in the 3 holes and rechecked. No change. So I have a gasket or valve problem. Tomorrow I'll check the last 2 holes but figure a heads coming off, so both will come off. And I have a good local head shop that charges $100 a head to rebuild. The old engine bottom end locked up, I see what shape they're in and maybe get them built while I tear this one down. Order gaskets on line, local has $75 for one side, $45 other. So much for a quick flip on this one. Been at this for 43 years, fixing cars, something's wrong when I watch someone else doing it.
Good video, love that chain strap wrench you use on the cam gears. Where'd you get it? Thanks again.
Hey that's a lot of time and effort with no ending reward. But that's the sandbox that we play in. The castles we build sometimes stay up and other times fall apart. Anyway, have you considered doing a compression leak down test before pulling the heads? You can find the culprit of a leak easier with compressed air being forced into the cylinder. If it's a mild head gasket leak, you can try using a bottle of a product called K Seal. Of all the head gasket seal and coolant leak products I've used, it's the best product out there. You can get you hands on a long handle chain strap wrench from Amazon via the link in the description area of this video. Just press the "SHOW MORE" button. Thanks for your post and good luck with the Solara!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the quick response. I will try the leak down test but there hasn't been any sign of coolant leaking or compression leaking into coolant system. I will verify though, thanks again.
You can get it from Amazon. Search on Toyota Camshaft Seal Installation Tool, Lisle Seal Romoval Tool and Chain Strap Wrench.
I have a question for you on sludge on the 1mzfe. Have you had any problems with it? How do you deal with it if you have had problems?
@@CuttinInIdaho Easiest way to gradually eliminate it from you engine is to add 20% Marvel Mystery oil with every oil change. After around 3 oil changes, you won't believe how much cleaner your engine will be. You can monitor the progress via the oil dip stick. If the oil gets black in under 1,000 miles, it's working! You may want to change it though instead of waiting for the next change interval since the cleaning action could prematurely clog up your oil filter.
Thanks for the information
Finally...an excellent video!!!! Do you know how hard it is to find videos pertaining to my/this engine? They are nearly impossible to find, as others always tend to work on the easier 4 cyl.vehicles, like 1Aauto. Every one of their videos are already pre- worked on, where everything is nice and clean and comes off easy peasy. Never a difficult situation to deal with. So, God bless you for tackling the real tough jobs! Liked and subscribed!!
Thanks for your kind comments and critique, and glad you found the video useful. If you check out our playlists, you'll find other videos pertaining to ES300 repairs.
I love your video I miss my Acura TL 06 you was the first video i saw on timing belt
The TL is a nice ride when everything is working and nothing is worn out too much.
Thanks so much for taking the time to film ,edit, and post this,
Appreciate your critique! Lots of time and effort goes into making these videos.
Good work! Guess it's time to do mine with the original belt at 145k before this happens.. so I can reuse the timing belt tensioner?
Love my 01 ES300! Gonna refresh all the front suspension too!
I need to start making videos of all my diy projects..
Yup. You don't need to replace the tensioner.
2 years ago in the Chicago land Napa I paid like $160.00 for the ASIN Kit and it came with the tensioner, idler pulley, water pump , water pump stainless steel gasket , and tensioner pulley . I only had 165,000 Mi at the time I did all mine. I wouldn't be "Cheap Charlie" and I would just change everything while you're in there including the camshaft seals.
Very good job it was pretty good and you made everything look easy to do.its a 1999 lexus es 300
Thanks!
Good day..Do you have the video of changing the power steering pump or just follow the route.. thanks for being a blessing... have a blessed day
This guy is fearless
Thanks!
专业知识丰富，维修技术很好。有车交给你修理，放心矣!
感谢您的评论和支持！当然。当您在田纳西州的孟菲斯市时，我会修理您的车的。
I have a 92 ES300 which I've owned since new. In 2019 I dropped the engine and subframe from the car - basically in reverse to how it was assembled in the factory. I replaced every seal and "bolt on accessory" imaginable. Let me tell ya, it was much easier working on that engine after we dropped it from the chassis. So much more room to work!
Good job! If you have a lift or found a creative way to move the car and subframe away from each other without a lift, please share!
@@hardlymovingpro
They make 40-in jack stands. Or alternatively you could get the car up on concrete blocks. This is essentially what I'm doing with my Freightliner to drop the front crossmember to change the front motor mount.
Great video! Wish I could work in Hyper-Mode like you do. (-: Seriously, I am glad you use power tools. Other videos are so tedious while watching the guy screw tons of screws by hand. My Camry has 256K miles and still runs like a sewing machine. But, I guess I better replace the belt before it breaks. Thanks again.
Thanks for your critique! That was a good video when I replay for myself. It was around 8 hours of work. Hey ... I'm slightly ahead of you on my Camry ... 260K miles but it's a 4 cylinder. Yes, power tools does make ALL my jobs go much faster. I'll be doing a video pretty soon on the power tools that I use (and abuse) comparing and contrasting with some nifty hand tools. I'm partial to Milwaukee power tools if you've noticed. You should check out the video I made on replacing a broken timing belt on a 4 cylinder Camry.
@Hardly Moving Productions thanks for the video. I watched it times, especially basically the middle bc I was having a heckuva time getting the camshaft bolt out. Took the universal removal tool you recommended and with some (a lot) of effort I did get the bolt out. Bottom cover came off easy peasy after removal of the pulleys. The problem I'm having now is the re-alignment of the (new) timing belt. It's marked, and I've watched your moving it this way and that way portions of the video multiple times. When I Thought I had it, I tried to start the car - the cams moved the belt moved though it skipped significantly. So I began again - I think I need help with making sure it's on tight enough after installation of the tensioner. You were very explanatory, and I thought I'm following it to the letter - but apparently not. Giving up for the night I'm quite tired, will start again hopefully you will have responded with some words of wisdom. Hot already in Florida but with schools closed due to Covid-19 I figured I had the time. Any help appreciated. - John
I have a mobile mechanic coming out tomorrow - reached out through a local fb group and he responded. Hopefully I didn't ruin it!
@@JDMasonFX You can't ruin the 1MZ-FE engine with a jumped timing belt. Here's another TB video replacement job performed on a 97 Avalon which has the same engine as the ES300. Maybe you'll find this video more helpful. czcams.com/video/Y7WLtDkcAp0/video.html
Well done. You are quite a wrench.
Thanks! Wait for my next video. It'll be on a blown engine swap out of a 2005 Hyundai Sonata. Car now runs like new off of a salvage yard engine.
Ok thanks for the help
Excellent service bro i like it 👌👌👍
Glad you liked it and thanks for your support!
When I did this with my 4cyl 2.2l Camry, I loosened the bearing cap, put the seal in, and tightened it to torque. Why people don't do it this way is beyond me. One person disputed me vociferously until I point out, if you were changing a head, this is what you would have to do either in or out of the vehicle. He finally agreed.
The crankshft bearing you can also tap in with a wood or plastic rod. The omnipresent Scotty even did it with a rachet extension. It's not brain surgery.
That's one way of doing it ... but from my recollection, you have to take the valve cover off to get to the bearing cap ... right?
Amazingly skilled work.Way out of my league.Puts me off a V6 now.Maybe I'll stick with my Camry 2.2 4 cylinder LOL.
Thanks ... but I prefer doing the V6 over the I4 ... believe it or not. I like the dynamic belt tensioner on the V6 vs the "lock-in-place" I4 tensioner and more of a hassle removing the I4's torque rod mount.
Toyota's 2.4L 2AZ-FE (2002 - 2007 Camry) is a lot smoother and more powerful than the 2.2 5SFE. Hyundai's 2.4 is also an impressive engine as long as the oil pump doesn't fail.
@@hardlymovingpro Problem is the oil burning issue with the piston rings.I know a lady with a 2008 RAV4 with that engine and it eats oil like there's no tomorrow.Only done about 70,000 miles.Apparently the head bolts can shear off too and there's no repair for that.
Yea ... Been reading bad stuff about the 2AG-FE I4.
If you just took pot around in urban driving like I live in most of the time, I believe 4 cylinder engines have more low end torque which I noticed the most from a standing stop.
I think my 1992 Ford Probe 4 cylinder engine ( made by Mazda) had better starting from a start then my 1999 1MXGE. But the Probe version woyld not be able to touch the Toyota engine merging onto the highway or at highway speeds.
Thanks very nice job
You bet!
I was quite happy to find that whoever worked on my 2001 Toyota Avalon last had put anti-sieze on the crankshaft bolt. Came out pretty easily. The camshaft gears were fairly easy once I found the right crowbar that fit between the gear webbing(sprockets? whatever) and used a good sized cheater.
The annoying bit came once I got far enough to pull off the water pump. The stud that was missing from HMP's Toyota was present on my Avalon, which makes removing the water pump impossible... I tried removing the front stud first, but made the (terrible) mistake of using a hex socket, rounding it over. So ordered new E torx sockets, still couldn't get the front one off because it was still rounded over from before.
Luckily the back stud did finally come off with more penetrating oil, PB blaster, and the right socket.
Unfortunately, as I inspected the new water pump in the kit I got from Gates, I noticed various dents and dings around the sealing surface, so now I get to deal with returns during a pandemic. Hurrah? @%#$%
If you don't want to worry about future water pump problems, get an Aisin brand pump. You can overcome the lack of clearence with the side studs by jacking up the engine a inch or so with a wood block between the oil pan and the hydraulic jack.
Good content here. Looks like someone really botched the initial timing replacement. Nice work
Thanks 👍
I'm just a non-mechanic guy who decided to do all his own repairs 2 years after getting this vehicle (1999 ES300) and so I've been learning a lot, but this will be my first timing belt/WP job (in about 12,000 miles). I've watched your video and many others' videos more than a dozen times each, closely analyzed every part of the videos, learned various techniques, bought new tools, wrote my own guide based on these videos and the official manual (for myself, to reinforce all the knowledge), and just started going to the junkyard to practice (yesterday) the removal part of this job on ES300's.
One thing I'm concerned about though is the hugely conflicting information on whether my 1999 ES300 with VVTi is an interference engine. Some people are 100% sure it isn't and say 1mzfe is non-interference regardless if it's non-VVTi or VVTi, and others claim that VVTi automatically means its interference by nature of the design (I'm not savvy on engine designs, so I wouldn't know). One post I've read says in the 3MZ engine on an ES330 the official repair manual's timing belt procedure gives instructions based on that engine being an interference. However, in the 1999 ES300 (my car) official repair manual from Toyota, there is no mention of engine interference and the procedure is exactly like your video (for example, the setting to TDC by turning the crankshaft - it even mentions being able to turn a whole 360 revolution). The only "NOTICE" it gives is to always turn the crankshaft clockwise. I've heard there are special precautions to take in interference engines, but none of that is listed in my manual. A part of me is scared. Are there any parts of this video and your guide that would ruin an interference version ES300 if done incorrectly, such as with the handling of the crankshaft/camshaft pulleys? Why does the manual say to only turn the crankshaft clockwise? Don't you have to do it counterclockwise to get the bolt out? I want to hear your takes/knowledge on interference, if you have time.
VVTi is interference. Toyota wanted more power out of their MZFE engine so they raised the compression ratio. Majority of car manufacturers are taking this route. I don't know how many degrees you have to be off on the cam for the valves to touch the pistons, but as long as the engine is not running, there won't be any damage. If everything is set at top-dead-center (TDC), you can move the cam sprocket forward or back 2 cogs to mount the belt without worry of the valves coming in contact with the pistons. You can also do the same thing with crankshaft to mount the belt. There's no need to go beyond 1 cog counter-clock wise to assist mounting the belt.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the info. That does ease my worries. Thanks for your detailed videos and for the responses 🙂
No problem.
BTW - here's the link to a 3MZFE engine timing belt replacement performed on a Camry. The only thing different is the belt tensioner design.
czcams.com/video/jfxGNo9KlFk/video.html
If you move the rear cam back one cog from the alignment mark. that will give you the slack you need on the front cam. with all the slack at the belt tenshioner. when you release the timming belt tensioner all the timming marks will be aligned. the belt will have perfect tension on it. good video
True ... but you may have trouble mounting the belt from the front cam to the crank.
Thanks and good luck with the job!
Nice work. It was a bit of a gamble putting all that money and work into the timing belt and water pump kit not know if the valves we're bent.
Thanks for your comment. Actually I was more concerned about the transmission. In the 1MZFE non interference engine, the valves can't be damaged when a timing belt brakes. That all changed with the 1MZFE with VVT technology since they raised the compression ratio to increase power.
Great job guys ur sure know what your doing! This is a great how to vid. How long did it take ya to get this job done? Very impressive
Thanks! With all the problems, around 8 hours.
Great video, one of the best that I've seen on the Lexus 300ES. Do you have a video for changing the main-engine seal?
Thanks! The main-engine seal (or the crankshaft seal) replacement is @ the 15:45 time mark. The seal on the other side of the engine would require removal of the transmission. If you want to see the "non messy" version of a timing belt replacement job for the 1MZ-FE performed on a Avalon, here's the link: czcams.com/video/Y7WLtDkcAp0/video.html
pretty cool video
Glad you liked it!
Very nice man and good videos
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro well come friends
Thanks for the video! In it you mention using silicone to prevent the cam seal from swelling if you use oil - yet, would that really be an issue for this particular seal seeing how it's constantly exposed to motor oil anyway?
Thanks for your comment. I use the silicone grease (aka di-electric grease) to allow the outer and inner portion of the seal to slide onto both the camshaft and crankshaft shafts and the seal grooves. Once installed, only a small portion (the inner lip reinforced with a spring tensioner) is exposed to engine oil. Over time, as the seal hardens (oil exposure) and wears, the spring's tension isn't enough to prevent oil leakage and the seal will eventually leak and require replacement.
How do people like this do this so fast and he remembers where every bolt and screw goes when he takes them off. This guy must be a master mechanic.
Lots of practice ... lots of repeat jobs.
@@hardlymovingpro love your channel wish I could hire you to work in my Lexus.
Well done
Thanks!
Well done sir, well done!
Thanks and appreciate your support!
Most people don't know how much time filming adds to the job, getting the camera angle right, editing after the job is done, etc... I would guess it's 20% or more. Thanks again!
@@martymeyer4125 Thanks ... more like 50%
I don't doubt it.
I have the same car and really appreciate and thankful that you post videos on your project car. These videos are really helpful to me. Now do you have a video on the front exhaust manifold catalytic converter replacement or cleaning of the same part?
On old (20 + years), high mileage Toyota's, I found it easiest to remove and replace everything. That is, exhaust manifold/catalyst, down pipe, center pipe with resonator and the muffler. In that way, I know the exhaust system should be trouble free for another 100k + miles and I don't have to deal with a muffler shop doing patch sloppy welds and pipe replacements. The parts are cheap and easy to come by from various ebay vendors. I start from the muffler removing the hangers from the chassis leaving the rubber donut hangers alone. I work my way to the downpipe where I unbolt it from the exhaust manifolds. I then pull the entire exhaust out from the back and hack saw it up into pieces for scrap removal. From that point, you can unbolt the 2 exhaust manifolds from under the car.
@@hardlymovingpro .
MY GUY!
Your video I watched 2 years ago has me another 25,000 and probably 500 hours on the timing belt idler pulley tensioner water pump water pump gasket. I bought the AiSIN kit from Napa on your recommendation in this video.
I have to disagree with you that the exhaust system on my 1999 Toyota Solara 3.0 1MZFE 20 years old was inexoensive. ?
Quoted $1,600 from Midas and a Toyota dealership. Ended up having to spend about $750 on parts and $200 to a shop to do the manifold to exhaust work. I kept my exhaust manifold.
This is coming from a guy who's used to domestic cars from the 80s 90s where it was 200 bucks to replace an exhaust system. Quite a shock.
I got my exhaust parts from vendors in ebay. Paid around $275 for the cat, resonator and muffler on my I4 camry. If length ain't right or the flanges don't match, my muffler shop cuts and welds to match
Great video, thanks. I had thought I would need to put a support under the engine before removing that motor mount; am I wrong?
No engine support is necessary to remove the side motor mount. It's really not a motor mount ... rather a torque mount to prevent the engine from rocking or twisting too much during hard acceleration.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks!
Great video. Found this while doing research getting ready to do timing belt in my ‘04 ES330. It looks very similar. Does anybody know of major differences I should be aware of?
The 330 or the 3.3 liter is basically the same engine as the 3.0. Only change they made to the timing belt design is the belt tensioner. Watch my video on doing a TB job on a Sienna that has the 3.3 engine.
Follow up...the power steering reserve loosing atf fluid..and I don't know yet where is leaking.. thanks again
There are 2 possible sources: 1. The low pressure hose from the p/s reservoir to the pump is leaking from the spring clamp(s). Solution: Either replace the hardened hose or put hose clamps in front of the existing spring clamps. 2. The rear (firewall side) camshaft seal is leaking and migrating to the p/s reservoir. Solution: When replacing the timing belt, remove the camshaft sprocket in order to replace the cam seal.
I actually have to do this today the serpentine belt ripped off and my Brother said you don't have to remove really anything you can do it just on the top by removing the pump or the alternator ? Is there an easier way ? Also don't have a Drive bar
Don't understand the problem and the question. Are you replacing the timing belt or the accessory belt? There's no serpentine belt on the 1MZFE. There's only the power steering and the Alternator/AC belts.
I see factory torque spec for that crank bolt is 159 ft lbs. Do you just zap it down best you can with an impact and call it good or do you have a process for that which won't spin the harmonic balancer and doesn't require Toyota's special service tool? Thanks again for the videos!
My impact drivers are all rated over 300 lbs. So I closely watch the spin of the socket while I'm torquing the bolt down; when the bolt stops spinning, I release the trigger on my driver. So yes, I zap it down and call it good! Only takes a second or so.
I just noticed that the kit you purchased AISIN TKT-024 came with a new tensioner, but you reused the old one? The AISIN TKT-004 is the same kit without the tensioner. Do you recommend replacing the tensioner?
After doing quite a few MZ-FE TB jobs, I've never experienced a failed tensioner on the MZ-FE engines. But for the benefit of those who don't feel comfortable doing a job like this without replacing all TB components, I recommended a kit with the new tensioner. You can save a few $$$'s by getting the kit without a new tensioner. The tensioner, IMHO, is not a high stress wear component like the idler and tensioner pulleys.
Thanks for this. Really appreciate it. Watching you guys do this gives me the confidence to do the job myself. Golden.
It can be done with patience and some determination!
Very nice video, you did great for giving hints and going over details where needed. belt broke on my car how do i set the timing on the camshafts ? or just make sure crank is top dead center and align the belt on camshaft teeth markers?
Thanks! Yes ... just set the crankshaft to TDC then move and align the camshaft sprockets.
@@hardlymovingpro so I turn the camshaft sprockets with tool to align them on cover markers ? or just make sure the belt markers are aligned on camshaft sprockets? again thank you
The belt markers help but are really not necessary. Using a 19mm socket wrench, turn and align the camshaft sprockets to the camshaft engine cover marks.
WoooW 😱
Price of that job is a new car, ain't it? Or a new engine at the least....
Good job ✔️👍👌✌️
Price is around $200 for a timing belt/water pump parts kit and my time ... or $40,000 + for a new ES or $6,000 for a new engine.
@@hardlymovingpro yes, i said that with a bit of irony cause that was a messy job...
$200? Are you supplying the parts also?
@@NaturalZBey Yes .... I supplied the parts ... on this job I cut a agreement with the owner ... that if I got the car running with my parts and labor, I'd pay him $700 for the car.
@@hardlymovingpro 👀Whoa! Good man...👏✔️
@@NaturalZBey The owner was ready to have it towed to the salvage yard before I came along.
I have the exact same car, thinkin about fixing an issue that whenever it runs, somewhere in that whole belt area, it makes a sandy gritty noise, still runs fine. Also I see oil on the power steering pump, any idea what any of this could lead to? GREAT video! Thank you :D
The gritty noise is probably your bearings either in your water pump, alternator or power steering pump. The oil on the oil pump is a loose hose clamp from your p/s pump reservoir going to your pump. Just pump another screw clamp in front of it.
if the marks are not lining up, does it cause piston/valve or valve to valve interfering? some people think it would be.
There's no problem if you have the 1MZ-FE engine. It's a non interference engine. Later versions with the VVT-i technology was interference along with the upgraded 3MZ-FE.
this is gonna be my first time messing with car mechanics.
im confident i can do this. but do you have a list of all tools used for the timing belt change out?
i want to make sure i have everything i can have in one go.
i dont think mine is gonna be as dirty as this one but one can never be too sure.
If you're new to auto repair, I would not do a job like this alone (partner with someone with some experience) and without tools you are not sure you have or need. The only exception is there's no rush to get the car back on the road and that you'll perform this repair in phases. If you had watched this video carefully, you probably noticed that some of these tools can be expensive (i.e. electric impact driver, chain strap wrench, cam seal installer, etc.)
I have to do a head gasket job on this engine. It looks like I'll have to do most of these steps to remove and probably replace the timing belt, since it's coming off a 95 Toyota Avalon. Any recommendations on replacing any other things along the way, since I'll have it apart anyway? Also, great work! I enjoyed watching.
Good opportunity to replace the firewall side exhaust manifold/catalytic converter.
Good video I have the same car why the alternator is sparkling
Spider webs from the car sitting too long.
Fantastic video! I discovered your video by coming across this video to help me with my '97 ES300, but have spent the last couple of days watching your other videos. You do great work!.
Question - your tools list in this video includes an oxygen sensor wrench. I think I missed it - where did you need to use that?
Thanks for your comment and your support! Couldn't complete the entire redo project because someone needed a car real bad and wanted the ES300 as is. Every specialty tools used in my videos were listed in the text description area of each video. When doing the valve cover replacement video, I swapped out the firewall side upstream O2 sensor due to a OBDII error code indicating it was malfunctioning. I picked one up from the salvage yard in like new condition. Also, with the intake plenum and valve cover off, access to this sensor was easy and simple to replace. I've seen price quotes of $400 + to replace one O2 sensor so here's a opportunity to do a simple parts replacement.
Understood - just wondering why you listed the oxygen sensor wrench in the text for timing belt video, was wondering what I missed. Sounds like it's just listed in the text for the wrong video ...
The valve cover on the firewall side is leaking in the same lexus that needs the timing belt swap, so I'll be spending lots of time on your youtube channel :)
Good job. Nice informative video. mine has 120,000 have replaced a lot of belts on toyotas but not the dual overhead sideways 3.0 s Sorry I laughed when the alternator went kapow.. That would have pissed me off...lol
Should have first blown compressed air into the alternator. The power of cob webs!
What number was the crank pulley on to get TDC on the crankshaft. Zero or five?
I stopped using the lower timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley to to TDC alignment. The problem with that method is that the camshafts could be 180 degrees away from their timing marks. I now use the crankshaft sprocket with the engine mark. Look at the video time mark 24:10. Align the dot on the crank sprocket to the dimple mark above and to the right of it.
The air conditioner on this car is hard to match. They are simply amazing. Anyone that has one knows what I mean. My 1MZFE is at 270,000 and I'm ready to give it its 3rd timing belt because the seals are leaking.
Yup ... on the MZFE engines, the cam seals won't last forever. What gets me upset is when repair shops associated the rear cam seal leak with a power steering pump leak. The pump sits directly below the rear camshaft. When I tell customer's its a cam seal leak, they tell me they spent big $$$'s replacing the p/s pump!
I would not know. When I bought my car with 160,000 miles used Toyota Solara the bearing was out on the air compressor pulley. I just deleted it and run the alternator direct to the crankshaft pulley.
One other question I have about this job. If you were to drain all the coolant by using all 3 coolant drain locations, would that prevent the water pump from spilling tons of coolant below it when it's removed?
You can try but you're only losing around 2 qts of coolant removing the water pump. I don't know if you can call that "tons of coolant".
Question, did you have to line up/realign the cam sprocket before taking it off?
As long as they're within a few degrees of their alignment marks.
Hi! Can anyone tell me at what exact minute he talks about the water pump and where it is?
what is the brand and model # of the cordless gasket cleaner you're using when cleaning old water pump gasket? Im trying to find one but unable to..
It's a Milwaukee M12 right angle drill with a attached wire cup brush. Here's a link to it through Amazon:
amzn.to/2UNXYs7
You should be able to get a wire cup brush at any hardware store for a few dollars.
Hope this helps.
Installed new belt and had equal tension throughout. After a test start all the tension remained at the bottom with slack between both cam sprockets. This caused the belt to start walking off on the top tensioner and cam pulley. How to fix please?
Did you remove and re-install the cam sprockets? If so, they're identical except they're to be mounted on opposite sides of each other to prevent the belt from slipping off. One side has a lip (firewall side) and the other is open with the lip facing the cam seal.
He did this I. A half hour basically I’m shocked and floored on how quick he did this. My mechanic took all day and ripped me off.
Normal speed around 5 hour or less job.
What do you do if when removing the rear cam pulley you accidentally move it some off the mark about a inch or more?
Just reposition back to its original spot.
Im about to tackle the timing belt on a 99 sienna. My concern is retorqueing the crank bolt. Do you torque it against the belt? I watched a ton of vids and havent seen that process yet.
Also, the same question for the retorque of the cam bolts.
One more...does the chain leave bite marks on the can sprockets? Seems like it would.
I torque the crank pulley with a impact gun. Cam bolts manually while locking the cam from moving.
What great timing, no pun intended -- I unfortunately inherited my father's '97 ES300 a few months ago. He only had it about a year but really liked it so it will remain with me for sentimental reasons. It's got 202K on it & it appears to not have been serviced in a long time. The valve cover gaskets are leaking & I will be doing this same job too, especially since I think I hear a noisy bearing which could likely be the same one that gave up on your car. Yours was a real mess to have 160K on it, wow! That had to be satisfying hearing it fire right up. Anyway, this is a great guide for me -- I appreciate the tip on the Aisin (sp?) OEM water pump and the Toyota seal installer -- did you have to buy the installer at the dealer? Was it expensive? I look forward to seeing more of your progress on this car. Thanks!!
We got a video coming out on the valve cover gasket replacement along with a whole bunch of other stuff. You can purchase the camshaft seal installer from Amazon for around $20 or so along with the seal puller. I've got step-by-step text article with pictures on the TB replacement at another site. Here's the address:
axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-1MZFE-Timing-Belt-Replacement-Camry-Avalon-ES300
Excellent. Thanks for the good information!
Great video! Wondering how long did this job actually take you in days if you dnt mind telling me cause my wife wants to kno how long ill be working on ours lol
On this particular car, cleaning up all the grease and oil residue, stopping for camera angles and shots ... around 8 hours. With no interruptions and video tapping, I can do the whole job in around 4.5 hours. My best time with someone helping ... around 3 hours. If doing it yourself, you don't have any hangups and have the proper tools .. for the first time ... give yourself at least 8 hours.