Foxbody Mustang Rear End Is Making Noise, Time For A Teardown
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- čas přidán 9. 05. 2024
- Just when I thought this thing was ready to be a cruiser, the rear end starts making popping noises. Time to tear it down and try and figure out if we have big problems or no problems.
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I'm so glad you didn't do an LS swap in this car. Nothing against LS but they belong in GM vehicles. Putting an LS in a Ford is like kissing your sister.
haha
Some folks say that sub frame connectors should be the first fox upgrade but I say gears. My 3.73 gears mad my car feel like I just gave it 50 more HP. It is just more fun to drive, which is the point of a hobby car. Love your content, love your delivery. I think this will be a very successful channel.
Haha hell yeah, thank you!! 🤙🤙
I just dropped my 87 LX off yesterday to get 3:73's installed. It's got 2:73's in it now, so it should definitely wake it up! The guy used to work in the garage where I work, when he said $100 I couldn't believe it, replacing the bearings, races and all! I ordered the rebuild kit and took it straight to him before he changed his mind, lol. He's an old timer and said he's done hundreds of them, drag racing and circle track racing so I'm pretty confident it'll be done right!
Nice! Yeah that's like $1k cheaper than anywhere else haha
@@randybelcher6693 you'll love the 373's, I have them in mine. They are Def a good time haha.
Worn clutch packs will cause excessive play in the c clip. By the looks of the pinion seal leak good chance it was run low on oil and bearings got hot. 8.8 fords are the easiest rear ends to overhaul. Most of the time you can run stock shims And send it. But I do recommend koyo bearings.
If you are interested in fixing the headliner, some fabric shops like Pat Catans carries the headliner material with the foam backing. You can glue it on your cardboard backing board with 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
Interesting
Nice details on the rear-end sir..one glove so that means your the Michael Jackson of rear-ends?🤣🤣
😂😂 yes
Thing needs some chrome tail pipes… just subbed today, been watching the fox vids ever since I got off work👍🏼
Hell yeah, welcome aboard! I agree it needs long tubes and straight chromes out the back
Thanks for showing us how to change the pinion seal. I use a second wrench on the 11 mm bolts on the pinion flange when they are too tight.
Great tip!
I got high 1.7 60" times with the American Racer G60 dirt compound tires in my mostly stock 90 LX.
Nice!
Also, The idle, that is normal for these, only way to get rid of it is to have it tuned.
I figured as much
Yup, didn't look like over creamered coffee.
Always fun to see when you pop the cover
You can tell she's happy when she wags her tail going down the road.
😂😂 valid
My pinion and cover were leaking as well. I just did mine a week ago. Luckily i noticed mine leaking and immediately fixed it. You have to remove the spout and iac to do a base idle reset. When setting timing you should remove both also. You should start at 12* not 18* for the timing. 18 is a bit much. I set mine down to 10*. I have a misfire on mine i cant figure out. Thinking its an injector thats plugged. You should check the capacitors in your pcm. Mine were all shot and i replaced them all. If they leak they corrode the capacitor legs and then start eating the traces in the board. Ive put alot of parts on mine for sure. It needed everything i did though. Mine sat for 10 yrs, the guy i got mine from owned it for 25 yrs. You set the idle screw w both removed also. W stock cam you shoot for 650-675 rpm.
I'll have to check out the computer
@VeteranRevivals ill bet you right now at least 1 cap has corroded legs on it. The others may not look bad but they are. If you're not comfortable attempting repair. Take it to a local TV repair shop or electronics repair shop. 1 of mine was corroded and the other 2 looked ok but all were reading WAY off. You have to ever so gently remove rubber coating on board. Then solder new caps in. The values are 2@ 47 micro farad. And 1@ 10 micro farad. If you DIY lookin at 6-8 bucks for caps. Very simple preventative maint job. Unless your having typical bad cap problems.
Time to send your computer off to ecu exchange for a rebuild, I myself am about to send them another one for same problems as you surging and high idle issues.
I just had my car looked at after I couldn't get the idle down. Was at 18 degrees of timing, set it to 10 degrees and the idle came down from 1100 to 950ish. Tried adjusting the idle screw and nothing happened, was completely disengaged from the butterfly of the throttle body and stayed at 950ish rpm. Took it to a shop, they did a smoke test and found it had many areas of unchecked air coming in, mostly around the egr and throttle body. Put a new accufab throttle body with an egr delete plate and the idle is now adjustable and set to 750ish. Sounds and runs a lot better. Maybe a smoke test to check for unchecked air may help you? Mine surges a little also but levels out
Looking forward to seeing what control arms you go with.
Any suggestions?
He will probably get them from eBay.
Lakewood’s are my favorite just because they was popular back in the day or something similar. I do discourage the 100-150 dollar sets from eBay. BBK has some nice ones and Proform has some very similar to BBK and both favor the Lakewoods at a lower price. If you find some old SSM lift bars those work great, make sure they have the lowering brackets. I can promise you if you run any that are solid they will tear your lower torque boxes if you don’t have reinforcements. Buy you some of those upper and lower torque box reinforcements and do a video on them. Can buy them from 60-100 dollars.
I just did a 31 spline (explorer LSD) rearend in my fox. The 28 was clunking and the backlash was way off because the shims on the LSD were worn out. Switched to 5 lug and disc brakes (4 piston cadillac 13" front, taurus caliper and 10.65" rear) at the same time. Always something to change and upgrade. No more gear noise and stops so much better.
Now i have to fix the e-brake.
Having fun following you.
Nice! Sounds like a decent swap. Thanks for watching! 🤙
What kind of kit did you use? I am thinking of just going SVO/93 cobra disc on my 86 to stop better. I am going to go with 17" wheels so clearance isn't a issue.
I didn't use a kit. I just pieced together parts from different places. The diff from an Explorer at the junk yard, the rear calipers from a Taurus at the junk yard, front spindles from a 95 at the junk yard and the brake lines and fittings from the junk yard. The front calipers are Cadillac 4 piston brembos from Amazon, had to shave them a bit to fit. Front Rotors are 13" from amazon. Rear rotors are 10.65 from parts store for a 2004 mach1. Ford traction lock rebuild carbon kit and axles from JEGS . New bearing also.
The 17" cobra rims barely fit on the front over the calipers.
Stops so much better and I don't have brake fade anymore.
The car does have 600hp and this was much needed!
LOOKS LIKE LAST OWNER DIDNT KNOW HOW TO JACK UP THE CAR AND SMASHED THE SEEMS UNDER DOORS...
Awesome bro Scrappy is coming around I have been messing around with my timing with the E cam its at 14 now I think it could go more!!👊🤘👀
Just give it 91 octane and send it to 18° haha
Yee-yee!!!!!
Awesome video again buuut your one glove was kinda freaking me out Mikey Jackstone.
😂😂
Great video. Too bad it was about a Ford. 🤣
Shots fired! 😂
😅👍
So, exploratory surgery to determine it needs more work to fix the backlash, and fresh seals/RTV to limit post surgical "spotting"?
Exactly, so far the bleed has been staunched
Well done!
🙂
Another fantastic video buddy, reminded me that I also need to change the differential oil in my 1991 fox with 3.73 gears. Any idea of how many teeth I need for the Speedo gear to get my speedometer accurate again? It’s a manual. Thanks.
Unfortunately, I think you may have to change both gears (the one on the cable and the one in the tail shaft).
Look into a microsquirt pcm I have one in my car theyre like a baby holley
Interesting 🤔
@@VeteranRevivals btw love your videos and thank you for your service
Thank you sir!
I was shamed! Oh, run it down track, i doubt track official will even look at your car? Soon as you say 302…NA, he’ll give ya number and be on your way…
It's the battery relocation without a shutoff that will likely get us haha
Still noisy ? Just a clunk ? Or does it whine at all ?
Surprised you didn’t do axle bearings too. Just did a bunch of work on my 86. Did very similar in the rear end, a good enough job. Change some seals and some bearings, but did not reset or replace the crush and or carrier shims. Going to just run it for now unless it’s super loud or I run into any issues.
Just clunky from c-clip, no whining
That’s good. Might not be high backlash. Might be worn spider gear splines. Keep the foxbody content coming ! 🤘
What size Tire / Rims are on the car? thanks
165/80r15x3 (front)
G60 R15x8 (rear)
C clips shouldn't do that.
The more the clutch packs wear down, the more play they get. Just not at a point yet where it's worth changing the LSD.
@@VeteranRevivals interesting, I have never seen that happen, granted I never keep a car for that long with a 8.8. Loving the build and the car. I have a couple 86 coupes, 83 Dominator GT 35k miles, and a 84 Hatch L with 38k miles. Always love seeing these. my 71 Torino is my favorite out of all of them.
Nice! I'm a big fan of the Torino
@@VeteranRevivals what’s your email, I send you some pics, or if you have a Facebook profile. Love your coupe. Just a down and dirty budget car
art@veteranidiot.com