Intermittent Mower Engine Fix Kohler XT675-2075 Ingnition Coil Change
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Description: Kohler XT engines are known for the coil packs going out. When they go out they first go intermittent. Sometimes you'll have to wait 15 minutes to an hour before you can start the mower again. Slowly over time you will get less and less cutting time until the engine just won't run. Most people think it a carburetor problem because the engine can be restarted . This Video shows you how to change the ignition coil on a Kholer XT675-2075 engine. It's really easy and takes about 15 minutes if you know what you're doing. If you don't know what you're doing it will take about 30 minutes if you watch the video. The reason I changed the coil is because the engine would cut off after it warmed up. That is an almost sure sign the coil is going bad. In my case the first coil change did not solve the problem as I received a bad NEW coil which was verified by using the spark tester.
So after I put another one in yesterday I ran the mower for an hour while I cut the front and back lawn and it ran fine. Who would have thought a brand new coil right out of the box would have been. I guess stranger things have happened before so why not this.
Oh well it's fixed.
Part needed: Kohler Ignition Coil One of the following P/N"s:
1458404S, 1458416S, ( XT149, XT173, XT800).
Off eBay about $23.00 after shipping.
Tools Needed:
1. 10mm socket.
2. 3/8's drive ratchet.
3. 3/8's drive 6" extension.
4. 10mm Combonation Wrench.
If you paint the metal on the coils you'll need the following:
5. Can of Engine Spray Paint, color of your choice.
6. Pocket Knife.
7. Masking tape to tape off everything except the metal.
Optional:
8. Dielectric Grease to put into the Spark Plug cap. Prevents water from corroding your contacts.
Feel free to comment and please give me a thumbs up. If you learned something and like what I'm doing here please subscribe, as it helps my channel.
Thumbs down accepted, just tell me why.
Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
OMG...you just saved me from buying a new lawn mower. Great video, clear and concise. Thank you so very much for posting!!!
Hey Kathy thanks you're welcome and thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Very useful video and well done. I own the Toro Recycler with the XTX675 engine and the cover and recoil starter assembly is virtually identical to that in your video. My mower just went dead and I determined no spark after trying starting fluid, so I guessed the coil needed replacing. Took about 25 min to swap out and the mower started right up. This engine seems to be very easy to work on for the coil compared to other engines.
Thanks for the complement I appreciate it. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
My father-in-law gave me this mower because"it will not start or run"...got it home, unloaded it and just for kicks I gave her a rather gental pull ...nothing, I pulled plug wire off and thought that came off really easy, squeezed it closed a little with some pliers pushed back on with a "snap"...1st pull started, been cutting my grass for a year with it . zero problems...
Thanks father-in-law!
LOL that funny. That "Chuck It & Buy a new one" attitude isn't always the best way. Spend a few seconds to check it out and save hundreds of dollars. What do you have to loose? Hum.... a couple of hundred dollars...... Good job BC. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I like the way you take the symptom, research it for the actual problem, get the part and install it. Problem solved. Thanks Keith
hey Bayou thanks for the kind comment. That little spark tester was cheap and it has helped me troubleshoot cars as well. If you're going to work on gasoline engines it's one of the best cheap tools you can buy. I live in south La. yall live down here in the bayou? Again thanks for the comment. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
Any idea why my engine doesnt turn off when i release the dead mans handle? The brake seems to be moving and contacting the flywheel but it wont turn off??
Hi Donbrendo, at time index 6:14 I connect a wire to the coil. If the brake assembly that it connects to is not working right, or the wire is bad, when you release the handle it won't short out the coil and stop the engine. Check to see if the wire is there and connected. If it is, pull that wire off and check it for corrosion. If it's corroded clean it and then push it on and off several times. If it's loose when you pull it off or pushing it on, use some pliers to crimp it down a little then push it on and try it again. Hope that helps point you in the right direction. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya PS if you have this mower and can't find the manuals for it drop me an email and I'll email them back to you. I won't give your email to anyone or spam you, so don't worry about that. keith_noneya@att.net
Where did you get the module from. Is it oem or a replica. Also what's the part number.
I put all that info, tools etc in the description. Check it out for a lot of info. If you don't find what you need let me know. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Did you foreget clean the magnet ok
I don't remember, but probably didn't forget. I've been doing those since I was a kid with a mini bike. Yeah I just dated myself, that was back in the early 70's. LOL. Long hair, large collars, tight pants with bell bottoms. Yep the Vinnie Barbarino Days LOL.
that skip is probably a fouled plug from the weak coil
Very possible. I had to put three Ignition coils in it, the first one was open, brand new, the 2nd one went bad in a week., the 3rd one was fine and is still in it. The were all from eBay, sorry I don't remember the sellers name. Thanks for the comment. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Keith, I like the idea of enamel coating the coil to prevent rust. My question is, is it absolutely necessary to scrape away the paint where the bolts contact the ignition coil? Is the coil actually grounded out to the engine body that way?
Yep the coil is actually grounded to the engine body that way. If you use star locking washers it probably wouldn't need to be done. If not using star washers the paint may or may not be penetrated. So in that case you'll have to scrap it off the paint in order for the electrical path to have a return. Good question though. Hope that helped answer your question. On the flip side the other issue I had turned out to be another two fold problem; The gas line was starting to deteriorate inside the tube restricting gas flow, & the in line tank filter was getting clogged.Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Chingon buen trabajo,gracias por el video helps a lot
Me alegra que te haya gustado el video de Luis E Gallegos y que te haya ayudado. Gracias por ver. Los mejores deseos y bendiciones. Keith Noneya
Glad you liked the video Luis E Gallegos and that it helped. Thank you for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey I know this was 3 years ago but did you ever figure out what was causing the slight miss at the end? I've got the same engine on my Toro driving me crazy with the same random miss every once in a while. It's not the carb (been through 2 already) and the ignition seems ok. Maybe it's a sign of the coil going bad?
Hi mjb yea it was three things.
1. Bad coil.
2. Partially clogged in line filter INSIDE the fuel line right where it connects to the gas tank.
I would pull out that filter, cut the line and put in one of those red Briggs & Stratton in line fuel filters.
3. Another partial clog in the fuel line, right where I would clamp it to take the carburetor off. The area where I would clamp it began to separate and clog the fuel line just enough that when I shut it off the carburetor would fill up the carburetor bowl and run. After a few minutes the fuel in the bowl would be used up and the fuel couldn't get through the line quick enough to keep up with the fuel demand and it would run out of fuel.
Note: About a year later I ran into another problem with the intake valve. For some unknown reason the valve stem would build up with oil on it and keep the valve partially open causing a slight miss due to lack of compression. I would pull the head, clean it and put it back together and within a day or so it would loose compression again and not run. I changed the oil seal and the same thing happened again every time I went to use it. The engine didn't smoke so I know the rings were good. I never did figure out this last one so I ended up replacing the mower with a Briggs & Stratton Craftsman mower.
It's to bad I really liked the mower and the engine was really easy to work on but I lost patients with having to work on it every week or when my son went to cut the lawn. Thanks for watching. Let me know how it works out for you. I would like to fix my Husquvarna so day. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Keith Noneya that's funny I started from the other end, first removed the little fuel filter, replaced the lines, installed the Briggs red filter and a new carb (all due to bad gas). It started and ran fine but kept randomly skipping, I would swear the float is set too low (does it worse when moving around) but it's non adjustable. Your video gave me the idea to remove the coil, clean everything and reset the gap. Seems to work ok now, I can still hear it wanting to skip but it corrects itself quickly. BTW - the kill switch is actually the metallic brake pad grounding against the flywheel, so any metallic brake dust built up around the brake linkage will kill it too. I was thinking maybe valve clearance adjustment too, but for now it's ok. Thanks for getting back to me!
Glad to always help when possible. I would suggest a trick my dad, a professional mechanic, taught me on adjusting the valves on any engine that has adjustable rockers. That is, on the valve you're adjusting, rotate the crank until that rocker is down, that way the one you want to adjust is full up. Then adjust the clearance on the one that you want to adjust in accordance with the manufactures specifications. Don't forget to adjust it with regard to temperature hot and cold. Hope that helps. Let me know how it all works out. Best Wishes & Blessings. Kieth Noneya
@Colorado Strong Oh how I agree with you now. I finally gave up on it. The intermittent miss was a combination of two things: The new coil was went bad right off the bat, 2nd one. I will say that the coil was NOT a Kohler it was some cheap Chinese aftermarket. The 2nd major issue was the Intake valve kept getting clogged up on the step so that it would not close. I cleaned it constantly, changed the seal then realized it was the piston rings that were leaking or allowing blow by up into the top of the piston. At that point I called it quits and bought a Crapsman with a Briggs on it. Guess what we had to take the 1st Craftsman back right out of the box it would not start! Now after a year the replacement is giving me intermittent running problems as well. Funny I don't remember every having these problems out of my lawnmowers in the 70's. I think somewhere along the line the specs must have changed. I loved the Kohler until it started acting up, it has such super easy starts and cut great. The other thing I liked about the Kohler is that it is SUPER easy to work on, unlike the Briggs. I'm thinking about installing a new set of rings to see if I can get it to run better again. I so much preferred the Kohler over the Briggs until it crapped out on me. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes and blessings. Keith Noneya
Mine starts first pull and runs great for 5 minutes then dies. The carb, coil and plug are new. Any idea what else it could be?
I have a few ideas as mine did it too.
1. I had a PARTIALLY clogged fuel line, due to the inside of the fuel line coming apart. It would allow the float bowl to fill up so the mower would start and run, but the fuel line would allow fuel to go through but not fast enough to keep the mower running past about 3-5 minutes as the fuel bowl emptied. I came apart inside right where I had been putting my vice grips to cut the fuel off, so I guess the fuel line was old.
2. A partially plugged fuel line filter. On the end of the fuel line that connects to the gas tank there is an in line fuel filter. Pull it out and clean it. Or you can remove it all together and put an small in line one. You can get those in lines at ACE Hardware for a few bucks.
3. Intermittently stuck Intake Valve. One other thing I noticed on mine in the intake valve over time would get stuck in the open position, due to oil building up on the valve stem. Once started it would run good for about 5 -10 minutes then start to miss. When it shut off or I turned it off the burnt oil on the stem kept the valve from seating all the way. After letting it sit for awhile the valve spring would finally let the valve seat down enough for the engine to start. So either the valve guide is worn or the valve stem. I found a temporary fix, that has worked for a year, is to remove the head and pull the intake valve, clean it and reinstall it. You may need a new head gasket and a new valve cover gasket. The valve cover gasket can be substituted with a light coat of RTV. I'll be doing that today. To check for a stuck intake screw a compression gauge in the spark plug hole, or put your finger over the hole, have someone pull the cord, and see if it pushes your finger off. If it doesn't you probably have a bad or stuck valve.
4. Still a bad coil. For some reason these are cheaply made. I have had one bad one straight out of the box and one that only worked for about 10 minutes before it stopped working. When it stops running put a spark tester on it and see if the coil stopped working. If you still have spark that's one thing left to check.
The one thing I do like about Kohlers is that they are easier to work on than Briggs & Stratton's, but they seem to fail more often. Either that or I just got a lemon.
Well that will give you some things to try cheaply. Hope this helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Auto choke.
Would have been better if you had explained what it was doing so others could learn why you are replacing the defective coil
It's in the title "Intermittent Mower". The coils when they get old sometime internally breakdown and the as they heat up the internal coil opens up and will run for about 5-15 minutes then quit, then when it cools down the wires touch again and the mower will start. An easy way to figure that it's the coil instead of a carburetor issue is to put a spark tool on it right after it quits. If there's no spark then it's the coil and not a carburetor problem. If it does have spark then it's most likely a carburetor or a fuel line breaking down internally. If it's the fuel line internally breaking down it allows just enough fuel to fill the bowl and as it runs the fuel line can't feed the bowl fast enough so the mower quits. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
hey about the card thing u stick behing the coil what size is it because im using fuler gauges the little ones ussd for rockers and im not sure what size to use
Hey Jose, I just use a regular business card, I measured it and it's .010" thick. If you use the Fuler gauges, you'll need two, one for each side. Only put the gauges in the very edge so it won't bend your gauges. Hope that answers your question. Feel free to ask more if need be. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe if I helped you, it will help me reach my goal of 1K subscribers.
Best Wishes n Blessings.
+Keith Noneya People Like are worth alot in this world thanks for the help friend and yea im subscribing
Kind words, thanks Jose. Keith
Thanks for doing the video..please get a tripod and a magnetic parts tray.
You're welcome Wayne, glad you liked it. I did buy a tripod and use it quite regularly in other videos not. Thanks for the thanks. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Can a bad coil cause the engine to not start up right away?
Absolutely. Check to make sure you have a spark. If you have a spark then it's probably fuel related.
A few items to check are:
1. Pull the spark plug and see if it's wet, if it is you're getting fuel.
2. Check to see the spark plug is not fouled up and has a proper gap.
3. Pull the full line at the carburetor and see if you're getting fuel there, if the spark plug is not wet.
4. If you have fuel at the line going into the carburetor have someone pull the cord and see if you are getting fuel into the rest of the engine. If you are not pull the fuel bowl and clean out the jet.
5. Check to make sure the air filter is clean.
4. The list goes on, but drop me a line if you don't figure it out I'll give you some more tips.
Best Wishes n blessings. Keith
My uncle and grandmother have a Lawn boy mower with a Kohler engine on it and it takes a bit a get the engine started. It has the electric start feature, but sometimes it takes forever to start until it fires. Could that be a moisture related issue?
Yep it can be, but it's unlikely if the mower is kept dry normally. I would check for spark first. The two most common problems with mowers or small engines is usually Clogged carburetor and a bad ignition coil. Sometimes the choke can be a problem if it's not engaging when the engine is cold, but after a few false starts the mower will run because its hot enough to sustain fuel vaporization. Question after it starts does it stay running?
It does stay running
Check the choke to make sure its closed when the engine is cold. You can remove the air filter and look inside. What model number is on the engine?