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Thanks, I hope it worked good for you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Glad to help Elsie. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

If the truck is maintained, oil changes; engine, rear, end as scheduled. Also the transfer case and transmission fluid changed every 30K, most things, other than the engine internals, start to go bad around the 250K mile range. The engine internals, long block, will go 800k-1 million miles before you need to rebuild or replace it. The exception is the HPOP, LPOP and Injectors. Those start to go out around 300-350K and will need to be changed. The trans if not over heated can go around 300-350K before you need to rebuild it. The engine, since you're towing needs to have its EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temperatures) monitored all the time. The reason for that is when towing the EGT's can get above 1,200 degrees, that is the temp the tops of the pistons start to melt. So if you don't have a EGT and TFT (Transmission Fluid Temp) monitor get one. Glow shift has a three gauge pillar set for around $350.00. The best and most useful is the CTS3 because it monitors everything and puts all of it on a display on the dashboard. However they are twice the cost, but you get what you pay for; www.ebay.com/itm/256529901922 at around $639.00 I gather by your question you’re new to 7.3L’s I can definitely point you in the right direction for keeping your truck running good and help you learn more about how to repair it. I’m on Facebook 7.3L Powerstroke Nation. If you have a FB account stop by and join the group. There are a LOT of knowledgeable folks on there. It’s not my group, but I’m known as Keith Dereck in the group here; facebook.com/groups/1861700010593406/ If you message me in the group or email me I can give you a list of CZcams pages that will definitely help you keep your truck up and running great and help you fix it quickly when it breaks down. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You're welcome Karl, glad to help. There's some other video's on that series on my channel too. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

That's a high compliment to here that someone who feels they couldn't fix there truck was able to fix it using one of my videos. My hats off to you for your sticking with it and doing the job yourself. These trucks are in their 20's and things are do go wrong with them more and more. Unfortunately getting a shop to fix diesels who KNOW what they are doing is getting hard for the 7.3L. However the great part about these trucks is most of everything on this truck can be fixed with regular mechanic tools in your driveway if you take the time to learn how to do it. Best thing as a 7.3L owner is to learn as much about them as possible. On CZcams watch all the videos on Clint Allen's Channel Custom Works, then Powerstrokehelp, DieselTecRon and last FordmakuLoco. They are great resources of valuable information. Also join the FaceBook group I'm apart of here; facebook.com/groups/1861700010593406/ I'm known as Keith Dereck on it. Thanks for watching, and I'm glad you got your truck fixed. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks Ward I appreciate the compliment. Thanks for watching bud and I hope your project goes well. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Great Question, No I don't do it by the book just for that very reason. I always disconnect the Lower Ball Joint, and the Tie Rod Nut and slip them out. That way no alignment is necessary when putting it back together. It's a trick my dad taught me and he was a professional mechanic. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yes it does, however a lot of them will stick due to age and still leak. So have the new one there ready go, so you can do it quickly. I had a High pressure leak like crazy when I pulled it. I even tried to reset the pin in the valve with a small screw driver, but to no avail. MAKE sure you have some safety glasses and possibly some mechanic gloves so you don't get fluid in your eyes, or frost bite on your fingers if it leaks a lot. So have a fill bottle ready to recharge a little bit that comes out, if needed. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

I did, but it's not a rebuild with coils, however I do show how to dress up the brushes etc. It's here on my channel; czcams.com/video/5VdvgPjltv8/video.html I use a lathe in the video but, you can just check it up in the vise and then use strips of sand paper going back and fourth.

Yep the trucks are getting over their 20's now. However preventative maintenance keeps them reliable and still very useful. I know guys who still do Hot Shot across country with these old trucks daily. They are not fast or flashy but if maintained they're very reliable. They're easy to fix on the side of the road and parts are cheap compared to the new trucks. One of the cool things on them is you an put the newer front and interior in them and have all the creature comforts of a modern truck while having the reliability of a 7.3L. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

If you unplug it, and it still won't run then that's most likely not your problem. There are many things that can cause a 7.3L not to run. I have a Word Perfect Document and a jpg on things to check. If you pm me on FaceBook I'll message them to you. facebook.com/Keith.Noneya.On.YT/

They are bent to clear the frame. So check that.

@@keithnoneya They both clear fine. It's just that the bushing on the driver's side seems too far to the left; almost into the curve of the sway bar. Seems off center. Handles fine, but makes a little noise when the springs flex.

@@azcharlie2009 Try putting a little sliver of a inner tube strip in the pocket of the U-Strap that holds them on, it might take up a little bit of the slack and fix that.

Thank you I appreciate the tip. It ended up being a flame sensor on the front. I pulled it, cleaned it, tapped it and put it back in. It worked until the Compressor froze up after 29 years of running. Most of it 24/7 in the summer heat down here. I replaced it with another Goodman and it runs beautifully too, but can actually keep up with the house, since I went from a 4 ton to a 5 ton unit. Ironically since the 5 ton can keep up, my electric bill went down. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

13mm deep, or 13 mm with a 3" extension.

To legally do it, take it to a AC Automotive Repair center. To do it illegally, put a towel around the Accumulator (Dryer), port and push a screw driver into the vent and let it out. The towel is to soak up all the fluid.

@@keithnoneya think ima have to take it in and have em just figure out the issue. It went from working for 20-30 minutes to now it just blows warm. Pressure says it’s in the red and 140 psi

@@dustin7529 You may try this playlist I made on the F250/350. czcams.com/video/-wUX9x2e-zI/video.html&pp=gAQBiAQB I rebuilt mine and it works really well. I did the compressed air in my system and did find a leak. I fixed the seal and it held, the I pulled a vacuum and it held. Then charged it and it's been fine since for the last several years. I didn't make a video on me doing it, although I do have the raw video to make one but I don't have the time right now to do a series. If you rent a set of gauges from Autozone, meaning you put a huge deposit on them, and when you bring them back you get all your money plus the tax put back on your CC. They also have vacuum pumps to do the same. Unless you're in a huge hurry take a day to learn about how they work, simple, and then apply that knowledge. There's a good chance you can fix it by learning on CZcams videos. That's how I learned and I've fixed quite a few now. Mine and friends. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Probably one of the most asked questions when someone sees oil in the connector. No you don't have to change the Pigtail like many say too. Oil is none conductive so just clean it. Mine had oil all up in it and I cleaned it and it has been fine since I changed my ICP in July of 2016, 9 years ago. I used to work on Aircraft Electronics, Wiring and fixed Electronic Test Equipment for over 42 years. So trust me when I say, just clean out with some Contact Cleaner or some Brake Clean and dry it off quickly if using Brake Clean as the Chemicals like to soften the seals. Canned computer keyboard air is good if you don't have an air compressor. Great question, I wish more people knew this because often then not they get the wires mixed up. Also in the future when doing automotive splices try to stick to the "Water Proof" or Environmental Sealed Splices to keep water out so they don't corrode if they get wet. Hope it all works out good for you. You can also find me on Face Book 7.3L Powerstroke Nation as Keith Dereck. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya 😁

Oh never late to the party on electronics, it's pretty timeless when having fun with older equipment. Glad you liked the video and I hope the others on this scope I put up are also helpful to you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks Wancamaney

Freon has been long gone and it uses R134A Refrigerant now. I could've gotten all technical, but I just chose to use terms most people would understand. I probably should have used more technical terms but I didn't. Normally I plan my videos out a little better but like I said at the beginning it was just quick video for John. It has helped a lot of people. What did you need that the video didn't explain good enough to help you. I've repaired or completely rebuilt quite a few systems, including this one. Sorry the video didn't meet your needs but if I can help I'll give it a try, and I'll use more technical terms for you if you like. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Oh thank you for the kind reply. I try to make my videos for the novice as well as the experienced. Glad I was able to help you out. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yep I mention that in the description and give the sizes and part numbers. Ironically I still ran these for years until I got off my lazy butt and changed them. Thanks bud. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@keithnoneya shoot I measured my sway bar got the bushings for that size sway bar, was tight on the bar an there was slack on the bracket side....... Sometimes.....haha thank you for the video. God bless

@@msyverson7936 😂😂😂 Yep that's how goes sometimes. You can see been there done that! Thanks for the kind words. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

So glad to help bud. Love CZcams for helping people. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You're one of the few to notice that. If you read the description I mention that. The nice part is the weed wacker still ran great. About a year later I did correct the problem. Despite that mix up, I hope you found the video useful to fix a common problem on this Honda Engine. Thanks for looking out for me and others in the video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Hello Keith yes i did enjoy your video, it inspired me to service my Honda Umk 425 four stroke line trimmer, Australian model as I come from the land down under , the line trimmer is eight years old so valve timing reset , oil change carb rebuild , new fuel lines and both filters replaced and now runs like clock work , thanks for the inspiration and God bless you, Tony

Most likely a bad connector. Try slightly twisting the blade or bend them more outward that should solve this bad connection. The other problem could be a internally intermittent wire, if that's the case you'll need to replace the connector on the truck. Hope that helps get you back up and working good. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya you're awesome Keith thank you

@@dr.z3426 Any time Dr. Z

😂😂😂

Haven't run across that problem yet. I'll keep that in mind if I have those issues. Thanks for the thanks. If you didn't notice I did adjust them backwards in the video but it still runs great though. 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya What do you mean you adjusted them backwards? Also is oil supposed to be up top there under the valve cover or is that a product of the leaky seals? I've got a GX25 Honda brand weed trimmer that's smoking like a bugger and spitting oil out of the intake, I don't think it was left on it's side (I always store it hanging horizontally and upright hanging from the ceiling in my shed, and I'm pretty sure oil is correct level (going after that today). I'm thinking maybe it's the oil valve or bad rings or something. Anyways, thanks for the video, it was a big help in seeing how these things work!

@@anthonyhiscox Hey Anthony, regarding mixing up the adjustment arms, the Exhaust is on the left and the Intake is on the right looking at them in the video. If you look at the arms one says EX and the other says IN. When I gaped the arms I got the spacing wrong. Ironically it ran fine for years like that. Regarding the oil in the top, yes there should be a little oil up there so don't worry about that. Regarding the smoking like a freight train and spitting oil. I would think it's the Intake valve seal or the rings. Sometimes even the Cylinders get worn our and replacing the rings might help for a little while, but eventually if it's the cylinder it will start doing it again. I'd look into put a new intake seal on it, PN: 531 00 86-33. You should be able to find them on eBay or Amazon. Hope that answers your questions. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya Oh I see, ok I'll be careful when I do my adjustment. I'll also look into ordering up some new rings and seal. If it's the cylinder Im probably hooped on this engine right? I'd have to take it to a machine shop for probably more than the engines worth?

@@anthonyhiscox I'd start with the Intake seal 1st and skip the rings for now. You are right if you take it to a machine shop it will cost you more than the weed wacker is worth. If you email me I'll send you the manuals or you can try and find them on line like I did. Do a little research on how to rebuild the GX25/35 on CZcams then decide if you want to go that route. My email is on my home page in the "...more" tab to the right of my channel name. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks it's not all encompassing but it covers a lot of the basics. If you need any help just drop a comment and when I see it I'll try and answer your question or give you some ideas where to find it. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

My appologies on not putting the year. My truck is a 2001 F350 7.3L. The configuration is the same for the 99-03 Superduty's. The High Pressure switch should be near the Compresor on the line. The Cycle or Low Pressure switch should be near the Evaporator housing on the passenger side. You should be able to find a video on the 5.4 AC High Pressure switch on CZcams to help you locate it. As far as the vacuum you need an AC Vacuum Pump to pull the system down to around - 30 PSI or inHg. You can rent one for free at AutoZone or most automotive stores. You put down a huge deposit on it, then when you bring it back they refund your credit card. So it's a free rent. The same for the Gauges as well. Hope that helps answer your question. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya Hey man thanks, guess im still basic on this, appreciate your info truly !!!!

@@brianblithe2271 Any time Brian, that's why I made the channel. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith

These trucks don't have Expansion Valves. They do have Orifice Tubes inside the metal tube that attaches to the Evaporator. Go to time index 2:05 in the video to see where it's at in the tube and how to get it out. Let me know if you have any more questions I can help you with. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Glad it helped. I've often thought of taking this one down because I was afraid some less experienced guy wouldn't heed my safety warnings and get hurt. However I leave it up for entertainment purposes, and tell folks the dangers of doing this job the way I did it. Also I left tips on how to do it safer, so I left it up. Be safe and glad it worked good for you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yes you have to drain the system to change it or inspect it. If you purchase the R134A on eBay or Amazon it's a lot cheaper than buying it in town.

How do you discharge it?

@@wyotech56 Your supposed to take it to a shop so they can vacuum it out. But if you do choose to do it on your own you can hook up a refill hose and just pull the trigger without the can on. But it's bad for the ozone but people still do it. Huge fine if caught.

@@keithnoneya it's a $11 for a 12oz bottle at AutoZone

​@@wyotech56 Take it to a Vehicle AC Shop. Most will do a quick diagnostic for a small fee. If you’re wanting to pull it out because your AC isn’t working right, before you discharge the system it may be something else. Most systems don’t work because they have low refrigerant, a electrical connection problem or the Evaporator or condenser are dirty. My Compressor lasted over 20 years, so check those 1st and clean the evaporator before you discharge it and fill it and end up with the same problem. - Here’s a video on how to clean the Evaporator; czcams.com/video/TqFf7tP7Nfw/video.html&pp=gAQBiAQB - Here’s a video on how to check if you have low refrigerant charge; czcams.com/video/-wUX9x2e-zI/video.html&pp=gAQBiAQB Hope that helps. Let me know if you need any help figuring it out. Also check out the AC playlist for the truck on my channel for how to test and repair your AC system here; czcams.com/video/-wUX9x2e-zI/video.html&pp=gAQBiAQB - Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya on CZcams.

Good question. If you jumper the cycle switch and the Compressor comes on then the pressure is low or the switch is bad. Time to put a gauge on it. What year is your truck?

So only turns on when o jump the relay not the switch and the truck is an 05 Ford f350 6.0 diesel

How would you release the lower drivers fender clip then?

Przetłumaczone przez Google: Nie wiem, jak długo pasek wytrzyma. Mam go już jakieś 5 lat i jak na razie wszystko działa dobrze. Jeśli się dowiesz, daj nam znać. Mam nadzieję, że film był przydatny. Najlepsze życzenia i błogosławieństwa. Keitha Noneyi Google Translated: I don't know how long the belt will last. I've had mine for about 5 years and so far it still works fine. If you find out let us all know. I hope you found the video useful. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya dziekuje pozdrowienia z polski..

@@agatapiecek6513 Anytime my friend! Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya

I did fix it and laughed the whole time at his stupid out takes. My favorite is; "It's my hair, it's not a toupee!" I don't like the man but I'm still voting for him his conceded butt though. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Sorry this hear that Fantazia. Take it in and have them check it. Mine went out at around 105K because I didn't do the 30K mile service on time. I thought they were like regular transmissions and would just keep running. They don't, the fluid in them gets metal shavings in them and if you don't change the fluid and filters out at around 30K the metal clogs the valves and then you have to get it rebuilt. Lesson learned, I service mine now. Hope all goes well with yours. Read the comments below to get a good idea of what others are saying and have done. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

So far so good. I'll check out the others for sure, but I'm not much into cutting up my header panel. That's why I chose these one. Anyways, Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks I tried to give just the facts on what you need. Glad the video was helpful. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Try watching part 1 to let you know what my problem was. If you still need help, let me know what the issue is with your van and I'll see if I can point you in the right direction. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

I took those readings off my switch, I don't know if Ford had other switches, kinda doubt it, but it's possible. It sounds like the wires are crossed. I might have to go and re measure mine again to see if I didn't mix up the measurement. Send me a comment tomorrow to remind me to do it. I might be able to squeeze in another check on the measurements for you.

@@keithnoneya thanks, if it matters I'm in a 2001 f250 v-10 with the ESOF

I replaced the switch and it didn't help. I can jump the pin 30 on the relays and it puts it in 4wd and takes it back out. Based off the diagrams I feel like I'm probably looking at a bad GEM module but 4wd Is the only issue I'm having. When I put it in 4wd no lights come on the dash either

@@wilsonwichman4847 I'm having the same problem right now. I was told it was the 4wd shift motor on the transmission was bad, or miss aligned. I started to go out and do that measurement for you, but it started to rain and thunder. Did the other switch ohm out the same way? See if you have power to the Relay Coils on pins 85 & 86 when activating it on the dash. Pin 86, 87 on both relays should be hot at all times. Pin 85 should be hot only when Fwd is off/2wd or after the motor has stopped.

PS Mine was working until I had it rebuilt, so that's why I think it was the 4wd drive motor not aligned right. If you need any schematics for the 99-01 I have them on the 4wd, just email me if you need them. keith_noneya@att.net

I agree, however I have to make video's for both the experienced and the novice. My biggest worry is that a novice might try and use my video to work on their vehicle, then miss something and get hurt or someone else might get hurt using my video. I do preface my video's are for entertainment or experienced mechanic, and that if you don't know what you're doing get a qualified technician to help you. Thanks for the comment I do try to make them a short as possible, yet include everything important, including tips and tricks. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

I think it was from AutoZone, but realistically that was so long ago I'm sure the maker either fixed them or went out of business. I hope you got your in. If you look in the description below the video I tell you how I got them to go in. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You don't have to change them all. I have a video for two of them of on my channel. The two I don't have are the Drivers Left Transmission mount behind the tire and the Transmission Rear mount under the steering wheel. The Drivers one isn't to hard to do, but you'll need a floor jack to lift the engine and a large crow bar to move it down to get one of them in, best I remember. The rear transmission mount is probably one I would pay someone to do if it's needed. I did one and I don't think I'd ever do that one again, it was really hard to do. Those Instrument Panels have a connector on the back that shorts out due to the solder joints breaking and cracking. You may have to pull the Instrument Panel out and re-solder the connector. There's a few videos on CZcams on how to do that. Hope that gives you some insight. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yep they'll fit just fine. Change the bulb isn't to hard other than you have to pull the batteries. I went with the AUXITO LED's Here's a video on those in these Headlight assemblies; czcams.com/video/svE8Be-Su58/video.html The only two things I don't like about these headlight assemblies is after alignment there's a 1/8" gap between them and the fender and to get the best out of the High Beams you have to aim the low beams lower than I would like. However they are still WAY better than stock and Halogen Bulbs. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya