How To Diagnose & Repair Kohler 7000 Engine That Bogs Down, Has Loss Of Power Or No Power Under Load
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
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We diagnose and repair a no power issue on this Bad Boy zero turn mower with Kohler KT745-3013.
It was brought in and customer said he mowed about half of the yard then it started bogging down and losing power.
We do a full diagnostic on it and end up finding bad ignition coils.
We go through the full process to find out if this is your issue and testing process to get there.
Sometimes if the spark cutting out is more consistent you can get an in-line spark tester to pick up the loss of spark.
We go through the full process to figure out what is wrong if it seems like you engine is at half power, it probably is for one reason or another
We like to go through the entire thing to make sure there are no issues.
We end up replacing the ignition coils and getting it back running full power.
You can purchase an ignition coil part number 32 584 25-S at amzn.to/3VRauFq
You can purchase a wiring harness part number 32 176 51-S at amzn.to/3vB60by
Spark plug Briggs & Stratton 491055 Can be purchase d at amzn.to/3xDG7bn
Air Filter part number 16 883 04-S1 can be purchased at amzn.to/43Qqt8N
This is a Kohler v twin KT745-3013 7000 series engine. This will be the same diagnostics on may Kohler KT series engines such as the KT735 and KT740
Spark Check'r Model SPC-7200
OTC Leakdown tester can be purchased at amzn.to/3Jbwljg
Lisle compression tester can be purchased at amzn.to/3VThbH7
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#badboymowers #kohler #smallenginerepair #individualizedrepair #smallbusiness #diymaintenance
About Us:
My name is Martin. I have been repairing tools and small engines for almost 20 years. We operate a small engine repair shop in Illinois. We service / repair Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro Tecumseh, Loncin, Honda, Craftsman, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy Bilt, Simplicity, John Deere, Exmark, LCT, Generac and many more brands. We work on riding mowers, walk behind mowers, snow blowers, zero turns, generators, pressure washers and much more. We normally repair about 3,000 pieces of equipment every year and look at many more that are beyond an affordable repair. Hopefully our videos will save you some money and give you the information you need to work on your own equipment or figure out the issue at hand.
Disclaimer: Links included in the description are affiliate links. As an Amazon associate we earn from qualifying purchases. There will be no additional charge to you for purchasing here. We appreciate your support, which allows us to continue to provide original content!
Please be careful when repairing any piece of equipment and follow all possible safety measures. This video is for entertainment purposes only. - Jak na to + styl
Great video! Very detailed and love the detailed diagnostic testing instead of a parts cannon!
I appreciate that! Glad to help!
After having already replacing the carb, fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and air filter - THIS finally fixed my my rough-running, low power Kohler KT715 engine! Thanks so much.
Awesome news!
Another good one guy. I learned a little more today thanks to you.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate that
You just picked up a new subscriber with this video !!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
I like listening to your videos. Great work at real speed.
I appreciate that!
❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊 I love the way you explained. Thank you for walking through the troubleshooting/analysis process. Some information I already knew, but some new information I indeed learned today. I enjoyed my good morning coffee while watching your excellent educational video. I hope that you make more videos as you repair more issues on BadBoy Kohler engines. Much appreciate.
I appreciate your words or support! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge . A good informative, and educational video. 😊
I appreciate that!
Awesome video......fixed my problem and runs great.
Awesome news! Great job!
😢 a very common issue with the kohler 7000 series engines is the carb mounting stems will actually pull loose from the abs plastic intake manifold causing too much air in the mixture causing the engine to hunt racing up and down for the right rpms, the solution is to reinsert the stems into the abs plastic using JB Weld, let the JB Weld cure around the stems for at least a day because when you tighten the card nuts there is quite a bit of torque involved to seat off the carb gasket so no excess air gets in. Also adjust the governer nut all the way to the right while pushing the governer stem all the way to the left, this will take some of the play out of the governer spring and help to limit the surge at low speed. I also use a RC14YC spark plug in my 2 kohler engines instead of the RC12YC , the higher the plug # the hotter it runs and the hotter RC14YC burns off the carbon deposits off the heads superbly. Please folks, Don't run jet fuel trying to clean the carbon off the heads, you will instantly melt the heads, my bro in law did that a couple of years ago 😂 , the head melted around the plug 😮 ...
I have never seen this on a Kohler 7000, Thanks for sharing
I have a Kohler Command Pro CH752. I've had it for 8 years, always has one problem or another. I noticed recently it was running with low power, and then found that one of the spark plugs wasn't firing. So I replaced both spark plugs. It ran better, but still bogged down under load. Then as it was running it shut off, and now barely starts then shuts off. I took out both new spark plugs - one is almost perfectly clean, the other (which was the weaker side to begin with, with the bad spark plug) is completely fouled in black carbon. I was curious to see if I had a bad push rod, so I took off the valve covers and cranked over the engine (with both spark plugs out). It appeared like the valves were not opening to the same degree on the bad side as they were on the good side. So I took out the push rods and rolled them on a flat piece of glass, and they both appear to be flat. I also put them up against a straight edge. Forgot to mention, I was curious to see what the compression would be on both sides and it was about 160psi on both sides. I'm thinking about doing a leak down test, and I wish I had that spark checker to test the modules. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I would say the coils are an issue many times with something that is hard to diagnose. A leakdown test never hurts to confirm
awesome video!!! thank you!
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Hey, Martin! I’m probably too fussy, but I always clean off the ground contact areas and apply dielectric grease to all contacts including the kill wire spade connector and high tension lead boot. I also use threadlocker on the screws because they have a tendency to back out because I don’t want to over-torque them. Just my little extra insurance to avoid a comeback and help the magneto do its job.
Yeah, fussy never hurts! I would avoid locktite on screws for the coil because I have seen too many break off. I have never seen any back out. Cleaning ground post some people do but the entire coil to block is held by the screws that also ground it. Overkill in my opinion, but it will not hurt anything
Thank ytou for your help
Glad to assist! Thanks for watching!
Nice video.
Thanks for watching!
I've got bad boy pro I love it
Good machine!
Some of those kohler 7000 engines had a problem with the casting on the head on the fuel pump side it was partially blocked causing fuel delivery problems due to weak pulse at the pump once you clean up the return hole with a long drill bit it worked fine there was a service bulletin regarding this
I have seen the bulletin but never experienced the issue. If the fuel pulse would have seen low flow we would have went towards fuel supply/line/filter issues
@@IndRepair Martin, I've searched for a definitive answer to a related question for quite a while and never really came up with a satisfactory answer - how can you tell what's adequate flow versus what's a weak flow? I can watch fuel exiting the pump but don't really know if what I'm seeing is normal. On the one lawn tractor so far which seemed to indicate a fuel supply issue I had what I would have thought was a somewhat weak flow, but months later when I finally diagnosed the reason for difficult starting it turned out to be a failed starter. That's how I figured out, at least for this Tecumseh V-twin, that this flow was totally satisfactory.
Through process of deduction I surmised that a specific crank rotation speed (or spark generation speed or both) must be necessary to generate enough compression (or sparks in rapid succession) to fire the engine. This was after multiple key-on's with crank hesitation and no real rotational speed (and a strong battery and good electrical connection through the entire ignition system). The engine would eventually fire but it took several key-on's to accomplish. One I tested the starter and replaced it with one from my "parts yard" starters that solved the issue immediately. Yay! :) (I've super-glued the one fallen off magnet back into the housing and ordered an end cap brush replacement kit to replace the brushes which were either frozen in the retracted position or cracked/demolished.) Now I know what's inside a starter and how to repair it myself for not a lot of money! ;-)
For starting purposes, long as the carburetor is getting fuel it should start. A fuel flow issue will present in the form of dying out after starting, almost always. Visually it should "shoot" out of the exit with good force. It is hard to tell visually. Here you can see it slows down on the first one and that would be an "inadequate" flow. It is a hard one to diagnose because they also hold fuel pressure (no decrease) so testing output does not help
I like the Lisle adjustable spark tester. I used twice on my mowers I’ve found it a good way to find coils that get weaker as engine runs and heat builds up. With rubber gloves on you can adjust the width while engine is running and accelerate the diagnostic of a weak coil. Sometimes you can cause the symptoms off the bat. Works easier with lights off in room, you can watch color and how far you can adjust it out before you loose spark.
Wow! That's a definitive diagnostic technique I haven't run across yet. One of those adjustable ones has been on my shopping list for at least a couple years. I've had my eye on the one from Echo (PET4000EC) from the beginning because it has calibration on the screw so you can really know exactly where you're at. The price has been coming down over the past couple years, too! The one Martin uses seems really great and very fast and easy to use, but I like to be as precise as possible, and I really like the concept of analyzing while the engine is running.
Do you happen to recall where you learned that diagnostic technique?
C & L Lawn Care CZcamsr did a video on tool. He has some good videos like Martin in format. You have to be careful spark goes to easiest ground and that can be you while adjusting if not careful.
Definitely works well for finding those hard to diagnose failing or intermittent ignition coils. Thanks for sharing!
They definitely are not as accurate as an adjustable but very quick and very rarely give a bad reading. I have seen it shut off when trying to read spark in a few situations
I love getting "gracefully" reminded I am alive every now and again
Thanks!
I appreciate that! So glad to help solve your issue!
I love how folks love telling this man what to do and what not to do. You can clearly see this guy is a ⚙️ head.
Everyone has their ways I suppose. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2016 Kohler 7000 on my mower and have just replaced the coils for the second time. The part number has changed so I hope the new one will last a longer time.
Definitely! How long did you get out of the first set?
@@IndRepair I don't remember exactly but 3 or 4 years. Living in Texas with the heat may have something to do with them going bad.
Definitely
@@tomm2147 Definitely could be a contributing factor. Here in Illinois I don't see them fail often
I'm having the exact same issue with a Kohler 7000 series Cub Cadet. Mainly starts when engaging blades. been frustrating. But pulling kill switch plugs from coils made no difference. Appreciate the vid
Did that lead you to the same diagnosis as we had here with bad or intermittent ignition coils?
@@IndRepair it did. It's not pulling air, good fuel flow, got spark. I pulled kill switch wire, no change. They're original and 400 hours on the machine. May as well
@smokinwraith1512 bet it will solve the issue
@@IndRepair great video. KISS method works the best. Especially for diagnosis, Keep It Simple Stupid. Great advice, hurts feelings every time. Lol
@@smokinwraith1512 Lol for sure
I like the Bad Boy mowers, but I am surprised they are using those Kohler engines. Kohler has had issues in the past several years. Wish they would use Kawasaki engines, I have no issues with the Kawasaki's. Thanks for a great video.
I have seen this coil issue for quite a few years. I love the Kawasaki's! Thanks for watching
I've seen other makes, Briggs, Predator, and knock off Hondas have problems with ignition coils. Many will work just fine when cold, then either lose power when at or close to operating temperature stop working altogether. Kohler may have more problems than others . Don't know. One thing that mouse nest could have caused the coil to over heat a few times causing it fail, or on its way to fail. Just a guess on my part. Have a wonderful day
The Kawasaki engine missing was the ONLY reason I didn't buy a badboy mower. It's kind of like Toyota putting a BMW engine in the new Supra..... no thanks.
The newer larger ones all have Kohler EFI or a diesel engine. Smaller ones some still come with a Briggs Intek 19HP or a Kohler 7000 25HP. They do offer a Kawasaki 22HP FR651 also depending on the build
I have a question about the spark check'r. I have one. I recently installed Nova II modules on a K161 and a K181. Both run perfect with the modules, but the spark check'r shows high on both engines. They run so well, Im not that concerned, but should I be?
Do you have the switch on the side set to mower? I very rarely see the spark check'r wrong but they have given me weird readings a few times
Nice work Kansas bad Boyslolololo
Lol!
Ok I have a serious question, I was mowing about a week ago and I started mowing within 10 minutes the mower started to surge and hunt, at full throttle, pull throttle back and it runs but sputters, then it started to pop and back fire , when ever I gave it power. I checked the fuel and it's flowing decently. I don't know how to upload a video to share with you what I'm trying to explain. I'm behind on customers right now, I did cut two lawns with it today but under low power and it sputtered, spat seemed to want to shut off, and backfiring all at once. Kohler 7000 on a Cub cadet 54" 123 hours
Sounds like a carburetor or fuel issue possibly. Does it run better with partial choke?
Had replace my key way.😊
Interesting
I have a cub cadet zero turn with a 7000 23 hp with only 120hrs, just out of the blue started running rough, seems to be running rich, changed plugs, fuel filter and air filter still runs the same. Almost seems like the choke is stuck halfway because it has the smart choke. Any ideas?
I would test the cylinders independently make sure they are both firing. You can manually open the choke also and see if it smooths out. That would tell you it's a smart choke issue
I don’t think it revs up all the way . I would check the throttle linkage. Just a thought. Good job I love watching you work 🙏
You are correct! During testing it was found to be about 300 rpm too low!
I have a simplicity, Broadmoor 16 hp 40 inch deck when the it’s running the key falls out and stays running. Do you know what it could be? What’s the best gasoline?
Ethanol free fuel is beat. Replace the ignition switch
I have that same motor and the same problem, I cut the flame a few times on the fourth, the motor worked but every time I turn on the blades the motor loses power
Definitely sounds like it is not running on one cylinder or there is an issue with the fuel quality
I use a temp gun, fast and reliable 😊
Definitely! Broke my last one not got another one yet. Need one soon for my upcoming bearing video
Why change the wiring harness? Sounded good to me.
I talked to the customer about it and gave him the option. It was nibbled on in a few spots by the mouse. It was not through the insulation fully. but while we are already there spending $40 to make the entire electrical harness new made sense to him
Great talent!
Great video. I have a Cub Cadet with this Kohler engine. I believe I heard you say if it bogs down and you chock it and it gets power back it's an air ratio problem? Can you share the fix on that? I've already changed the air filter, fuel filter and oil filter. A buddy of mine cleaned the carburetor and changed the spark plugs and it's still randomly bogging down still. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you.
Likely a carburetor issue, fuel issue or air leak. Could also be loosing a cylinder, I see coil issues with them all the time. Was the carburetor put on OEM or aftermarket? Intake gaskets replaced at the same time?
I almost bought that ignition coil. I went to the badboy website and it states it will not work on my kt740-3048. It will work on the other KT740 models.
Correct, looks like yours takes 32 584 06-S ignition coil amzn.to/3UShrW4
If you're going to run that motor for 30 min to test it, either put an electric fan or put the shroud on. It needs air on those heads to keep that motor cool.
We have the doors open and fans on when running anything for that long with or without a shroud indoors. Operating this without the shroud still cools the motor, just not as efficiently. Heat under a load for an engine is a lot different than without a load on it. Temp was about 60 inside and 55 outside. No worry there.
What rpm do these run?, I have the same engine and with the blades engaged not mowing it runs about 3100rpm, seems low
Definitely a little low. They are usually rated at 3600 rpm. 3450 is a good speed
@IndRepair how do you adjust?, idle is high too, mows great but I thought the rpm was a little low
Should you not have the engine shroud on if you run it that long, since the cover diverts air over the cylinders for cooling? A few minutes would be ok, but 30 minutes seems a bit long.
This is not going to be an issue. The flywheel still forces air across the engine to disperse heat while running. It does not do nearly as good of a job without the cover, no. It may be an issue if you are in an extremely hot area but we are running this at zero load. The heat generated is a lot different than having it under a full load. It was about 60 in the shop when this happened (55 or so outside) and we open the doors and use fans to exhaust. Thanks for watching
The aluminum fins on the cylinder and heads dissipate the heat anyway, around 90% if they are kept clean, and since there is no load present he could have run it another 30 minutes and it would not have mattered ! 😊
Could the governor being out of sync cause this problem?
Normally not the issue but I have seen linkage issues between carburetor and governor cause some weird things
Yes the linkage springs can often be an issue as far as rpm speeds but not under a load, I solved my 1 kohler engine surge by adding a 3rd linkage spring from the frame to the inner carb plate spring, this limits the tendency for that plate to close when the engine is at medium to high rpms. I talked to the lead man at Kohler about the 7000 series engine issues, nice guy, he says there are some new modifications on the way for these load problems. 😊
Thats weird because majority of repair shops say the Kohler 7000 series engine is the least seen..
I see them quite a bit but I would say less than others brands. I don't think they made nearly as many of these as Briggs did. Google says they come out in 2013 and the Briggs v twin been around since 1998
mine runs good, seems like it wide open till it hit some taller grass and it bogs down. Never should do this, Its a 27 hp kohler twin cylinder. I can take an 8 horse briggs and run through grass knee high and it dont bog down. 27 hp should cut anything. I've replaced the carb, coils, made sure both cylinders are firing. replaced fuel pump and filter and plugs. made sure the governer is set right. I'm thinking these kohler engines are not much. I mow with another one, its a 25 horse I think, it never fails to cut, does not bog down, something aint right.
Definitely should not bog down like that. OEM coils were used? Aftermarket ones don't work right most times. Everything on the deck is free so we know there is no additional drag?
Aftermarket or OEM carburetor also? When it bogs down does giving it a little choke help?
@@IndRepair used aftermarket ones. I've checked them while it is running and they seem to be firing ok. I agree, it should not bog down at all I would think. when it bogs, i noticed I can back up a little and it usually picks back up.
@@rbar1319 I would suspect the coils, install some new OEM coils and go from there
Zt pro Commercial.
Wow
Was the wiring harness part just a money grab? 😉😂
I know from experience the issues you have if you don't fix things right and completely. Call it whatever you would like lol
The only thing I didn't like in this video that you didn't put the cover back on while the engine was running for 30 minutes the cover is designed to direct the air flow across the heads keep the heads from getting too hot
Load temp is going to be different than run temp. The fan still blows air over the top to cool it. Ambient temp was low here, in a location where temp is really hot this could be an issue
@@IndRepair with that cover off it will not allow the air to flow down through the heads the air will just flow out to the sides the cover directions downward without the cover on it goes outward and even at idle speeds it builds up a lot of heat
@@treeguy4009 Air blowing over the top still cools, not as well but it is not under a load either. I mentioned in another comment I always have fans running when mowers are running inside to push exhaust outside. Next one I have off I will put a thermal camera on it and see at a warmer temp if it makes a difference. Thanks for your comment
@@IndRepair look I'm not here to argue with you if it's your own engine it wouldn't make me no difference if you put it on or not it being somebody else's I would put it on you can Google it you can research it it's common sense it was factory designed that way for a reason not for looks it was designed to move The air properly around the engine to keep it cool
@@IndRepair you a good day and be safe out there and keep up the good work look forward to seeing more videos
Thank you so much for this super helpful video!!! czcams.com/video/fRDWajff1lw/video.html How can I tell the feel of the valve cover or exhaust tube ? how it would feel ?
One would be warm or really hot and the other would be cool or not so hot
@@IndRepair oh okay got it!! I have a question regarding the voltage regulator. Would it be possible to message you on fb or email you to show you my concern? I would-be super greatful!
@@DrumPeearl service@individualizedrepair.com