Johnson 6HP Carburetor Rebuild | 1978 Johnson Outboard Carb Rebuild | Boats.net
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- Buy a Johnson 6HP outboard carb rebuild kit and needle valve here: bit.ly/johnson-6hp-carb-rebuild
Buy an impact driver: www.partzilla.com/product/aft...
See how to rebuild a carburetor on a Johnson outboard in this video from Boats.net. We’re using a Johnson outboard carburetor kit that includes the pieces we need to rebuild this 6HP Johnson carburetor. This is an older unit, so the flat inside was actually made of cork and had started to disintegrate. That float was just one part we replaced.
We’ll show you how to remove the carburetor on your Johnson outboard, get it taken apart, replace the worn components, and how to install the carburetor on your Johnson outboard.
See a Johnson 6HP outboard carburetor parts diagram: www.boats.net/catalog/johnson...
Read how to do this job step by step: www.boats.net/blog/johnson/6h...
VIDEO HIGHLIGHTS:
Removing the fuel line - 1:10
Disconnecting the choke linkage - 1:20
Removing the recoil starter - 1:50
Removing the throttle linkage - 2:40
Removing the carburetor - 3:00
Carburetor disassembly - 3:40
Replacing the needle valve - 8:00
Rebuilding the carburetor - 8:45
Installing the float - 9:40
Installing the carburetor - 11:05
Connecting the throttle linkage - 12:30
Connecting the choke linkage - 13:00
Connecting the fuel line - 13:20
Installing the recoil starter - 13:50
Find Johnson outboard parts here:
www.boats.net/catalog/johnson...
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In the video we’re working with a 1978 Johnson 6HP outboard motor, but you may have similar steps for your Johnson outboard. If you’re not sure whether these steps apply to your motor, leave a comment and we’ll get back to you.
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Well, the fixed high speed jet is actually in the carb bowl, and requires a special tool to remove it, the high speed nozzle is not the high speed jet.... You used one of the low speed needle packing washers on the bowl drain screw, the red fiber washer included in the kit goes behind the bowl drain screw. And, from the looks of the packing nut, there were no/not enough packing washers in place to keep the low speed needle secured and from leaking air. Using that little screwdriver on the float valve seat is likely to bung up the slot in the seat, the float level height should be checked afterwards also, along with carb/cam syncronization. Like others have said, there is no need to completely remove the starter like that, just move it over after removing the top screws and picking it up slightly. Removing the whole thing like that will require that the spring be rewound for proper rope tension, wrapping the rope back up on the pulley isn't going to do....
Wishing I would have read the comments before removing the starter. Any tips to get it back in?
@@pgbmxrler Well, the starter spring has to be installed in the lower retainer, then screwed back into the manifold starter bracket first. This usually requires removing the starter spring from the rope pulley...This is no big deal if you have the newer style white plastic rope pulley, a little more difficult if you have the aluminum rope pulley. You can also get it reassembled by pulling a bit of the spring down and out of the aluminum pulley while you reattach it to the lower retainer and manifold bracket. There is a little plastic bushing that is inside the lower retainer, please don't lose that. The hard part is "rewinding" the starter spring once everything is back together, which usually requires removing the starter rope from the pulley...I would buy a new starter rope also, they are usually worn and have been cut a few times making them too short. There is a specific length the rope must be cut to, this is important. I realize my written explanation is tough to follow, please visit aomci.org, then go the the "ask a member" page to post your inquiry....My name is Don aka "fleetwin", I will respond...Be sure to include the engine's model number....
Thank you!
i wish a diagram came with the kit outlining what parts go where! Theres a rubber O ring that I cant figure out i the package, any ideas?
@@blueback21 This carb kit from OMC/BRP fits many different carburetors, not all pieces are used on every application. That big rubber oring is not used on most current engines, what engine do you have? But, the smaller thick squared off/round gasket is the nozzle gasket and must be used in most cases.
You guys are awesome. Saving people alot of money. I thank you and love your videos
I rebuilt the carburetor on my 1956 30 hp Johnson but the float was to short hit and rubbed against that rod in the middle so I reused the cork one so far it works fine no issues
You don't have to pull the rewind..just remove the 2 top screws and move it aside to get to port side bolt.
Before you remove the needle ..you can gently seat it all the way in and count your turns..which will give you the former setting of low speed idle...otherwise a basic setting is 1.5 turns out from seated ..for initial starting ..
Sorry to hijack your top comment, if anyone is having a problem with fuel making it to the engine after carb rebuild behind the drain plug is an orifice plug that can escape cleaning from chemical soaking. you need a flat head screw driver that can fit the drain plug width and ease the brass plug out. I spent 6 days only being able to get the engine to run for short burst on carb cleaner. removed that plug put a needle through it (green/grey oil build up came out) shot it clean with carb cleaner.....motor finally runs. hope this helps, seen this on other forums and no one comes back to say how or if they fixed it.
@@kekq3525 - I just got an old service manual for these 6hp motors off of eBay. That plug you call is referred to as the high speed jet in this manual.
@@kekq3525 thanks for this
ALSO HE DIDN'T CHANGE THE O RING IN THE LOW SPEED SCREW ORIFISE
Good work
People, DONT remove the float pivot pin the way shown here. Notice he is hammering the pin right into the plywood! It is not in very tight, just push either end with a pick, it will slide out.
Do you have a video on rebuilding the carburetor of a 9.5 Johnson?
do you ever remove the expansion plug? some forums suggest that as the three passages may be blocked.I rebuilt the carb but still have unsteady idling and hesitation at high speeds,
I can't find a throttle linkage/cam follower anywhere for a 1973 6 hp,it's all I need to have it on the water,do you know where I could find one?
Why did you not replace the packing in the low speed adjustment port thanks
I have replaced the coils, condensers, points, I have cleaned and replaced parts for the carburetor. I have fire to the plugs but I still can’t get it to start. Anything else I need to do??
no packing for the low speed needle?
Thanks for the helpful information. I just bought a kit for my carb. I also purchased the low idle valve. Can you tell me the setting on this ?
Needle valve
How do you adjust the new low speed jet properly now that it's been removed/replaced? Is there a method to tune the carb?
I would adjust it so that it is open enough to just get a steady idle. I was wondering the same thing and when I was finished the job it became easy to open and close the valve and figure out where it should be.
What about the rubber that sits in the nut foe the low speed needle ??? 🤔
Forgot the gasket on the slow speed adjustment
I have a Johnson JW23M 3hp outboard that I am rebuilding the carb on. would the kit you have listed here fit that? What you are doing looks practically the same as what I have taken apart so far
The kit should work for these models:
1.5 & 2 hp - 1969-1990
3 hp - 1952-1968
5 hp - 1965-1967
5.5 hp - 1954-1967
6 hp - 1954-1979
7.5 hp - 1954-1958
10 hp - 1953-1963
15 hp - 1953, 1955-56
18 hp & 20 hp - 1957-1968
How much packing goes behind the low speed nut . I pulled out what looked like a clear gasket and a cork gasket, does that sounds right? I notice u didn’t have this step .
Correct, he totally forgot that, & it’s important. There shou,d be two packing washers, & a washer.
What he doesn't show ..if it works properly ..and after rebuild ..the synchronization of carb to mag plate should be checked and adjusted if needed..very important..
Can you explain how to sync the carb with the mag plate ? Thanks
No Float adjustment required??
Where does the air silencer go?
You forgot the low speed needle gasget! Also the carb synchronization is way off. ....and that is definitely how to not reassemble the recoil starter.
I wonder if this engine ever worked again?
The bowl on mine would not seat properly because the new float is different from my old one. The new one sits to high because where the bracket that is affixed to the float is different from my old one. 🤔
He left out about 3 steps...float adjustment ..needle packing..checking needle condition...he might get lucky or be doing it again..ahoy mates
How can I check the float is right and the needle packing ?
@@steve-wf7vf I find that the float is always just fine right out of the kit. Once installed, you fip the carb over and make sure it is sitting level. More importantly on the adjustable low speed jet, he did not show removing the old packing, and intalling the new packing. You need to clean the old packing out. Once you put the new packing in, you tighten down on the gland nut so the needle jet rod will turn with a bit of resistamce. He should have showed those inportant steps.
I wonder if he got any of that carb cleaner in his eyes?
Why didn't you put the packing washers
Where’d did you get the parts for the carb?
Hey, I have this engine, a few years newer, and it starts just fine when cold, but is a bear (nearly impossible) to restart once it is fully warmed up.
What is the proper procedure for starting this engine when warm? What do I do if it is flooded?
I have the same issue mate, just will not want to start when its warm... and thats usually when im in the middle of a lake or halfway up a river lol.
Let me know if you find a solution bud!
Tim
tims ==> What has worked for me are two things:
THE HARD WAY: Allowing the engine to cool entirely by removing the cowling and just let it sit for an hour -- start as if dead cold.
WHAT WORKS FOR ME: To start when HOT or STILL WARM -- this works perfectly for me: Set the throttle at about 1/3 (this will be peculiar to your engine, you find the sweet spot), choke the engine but do NOT prime (on my model this is pulling the choke/prime knob out 1/2 way). Pull ONCE ONLY. Push choke back in
Do not readjust the throttle -- pull and it should start. Once I discovered this method, it has never failed. Let me know how it goes for you.
@@kiphansen2458 cheers mate ill let you know!
I had the same issue with my chainsaw. Turned out the the carb was not getting enough air to restart the engine. Online I found others who had the same problem. The fix was to cut 1" hole in the air filter housing and put a wilkee button (cover) in the hole. When the chainsaw got hot, pull off the wilkee button to allow the carb to breath better on restart.
Do you answer questions?
What about the packing on the low speed?
Yes, he did not show removing the old packing, and putting the new packing.
This guy forgot to do a few things in the rebuilt ,,,,,he should show starting it engine and taking carb back off
You didn't start it how do we know if it will run?
I love you
Hi the recoil starter won’t go back in . When I pull out to start the engine the rope won’t go back in ?
This may be a little late for you, but you might want to see kramden's comment from four weeks ago.
"Impact driver" says it all ...
Here is another one: czcams.com/video/wgUG-HUa58Q/video.html
No ear protection needed :-)
Why he completely removed the starter baffles me, remove the top two bolts and lay it on the side. If your going through all the trouble to rebuild the carb clean it properly. Remove the welch plug, you can use an ultrasonic cleaner on the carb body, if that's not available soak the carb overnight. You can use simple green, mean green, totally awesome. Any degreaser, even better heat the fluid to 175 degrees. After rinse the carb and use you compressor and an airgun to blow out all the ports and passages. If you don't have a compressor and can of air you use to clean your computer will work what he calls the high speed jet is not, the high speed jet is in the bowl behind the drain screw. He does not mention adjusting the float, just make sure it is level with the body of the carb. In the kit there are new washers for the low speed needle, two cork washers and a nylon one. Other than all that being left out it's a great video !
It is so impossible to find quality parts for this in Canada. All I can get is Amazon junk. Be grateful you live in the USA. God bless America. Canada sucks.
To much work or steps and forgot to show float height
please dont follow these instructions he does not tell you how to rewind the starter rope ugh