Shower Threshold Repair
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- čas přidán 30. 01. 2022
- In this video we repair a shower threshold that was built with no slope and was leaking as water got into the grout lines and rolled over the pan membrane into areas outside the shower that were not waterproofed. Using an epoxy thinset, waterproof foam core substrate and an engineered stone top, we successfully rebuilt the top of the threshold so that it will not be the source of anymore leaks
- Jak na to + styl
That’s exactly what I need done to my shower. I had a shower built by a contractor and the curb got wet just like what you showed.
This was a mortar bed shower. Be careful with Schluter showers where the curb is simply a foam core block. They do not stand up well to selective demolition work.
Good stuff grout doctor
Thank you!
You skipped the only thing I came for, cutting and preparing the cut edge of the new sill.
1. Make a mark at the point where you want to cut your threshold.
2. use a speed square and draw a line with a sharpie right on the outside of the mark.
3. If you have a steady hand, use an angle grinder with a diamond tipped blade to make your cut, staying on the line you drew with the sharpie. If you down have a steady hand, use a wet and dry handheld masonry tile saw. Clamp the speed square to the piece you are cutting set at the proper distance where it will act as a guide for the saw and make your cut.
4. You can polish the edge with sand fine grit sandpaper if you like.
Thank you
I have the vary same problem. My curb tiles cracked and water seeped through. I will fix it just like you did yours. I also have cracked perimeter grout which I will remove and apply silicon caulk for showers.
Glad this video was helpful. Email me with any questions d-morrison@groutrx.com
great video, so I have an existing walk in shower that im trying to learn how to make a shower threshold because I am putting new flooring in and no longer want to floor to directly run into the shower tile. Any idea how to go about doing that?
If I am understanding you correctly, you have a curbless shower where the shower floor tile and the rest of the bathroom floor tile are one continuous installation without a threshold. If this is the case, the waterproofing extends from the shower pan into the rest of the bathroom and you would want to adhere your wood structure with a generous coating of Latapoxy to the gap you want to close off as a threshold. You could then screw it down with 3" deck screws make certain to pilot the holes through the wood and the tile first. Build your threshold to the height you want it taking into account that you will be adding some type of waterproofing board (1/2" thick) and tile (usually 1/4" thick). Make sure the threshold slopes slightly inward. You can do this with shims placed every 6" down the length. my preference would be to use Wedi board as a substrate caulking each seam prior to putting the Wedi board in place. They have a special brand of caulk, but Lexal works just as well. After you have installed your Wedi board and it had been properly caulked, adhere the tile to the interior and exterior faces, install the threshold, then grout. If you'd like to discuss, shoot me an email and we can set up a conference call. d-morrison@groutrx.com
This video is very helpful. It would be even more helpful if you listed products needed to correct this issue. Do I need to get waterproof group epoxy or just use a silicone?
We will work on posting a list of materials in the description shortly. For the particular task demonstrated in this video, we used an epoxy adhesive. Silicone should never be used for this purpose. If you have any further questions on products or projects, email me at d-orrison@groutrx.com. Thank you for the feedback.
@@groutrx1415 Thank you for get back to me. 🙂
Once installed how long will you allow that to set for before installing the glass panel on top of the curb?
I typically give the epoxy 72 hours to dry. Usually, we measure the rough openings for doors after everything is installed.
I regret not getting a stone curb top. didn't think about it as an option at the time. I only have one grout line though and I wipe my shower down after each use so hopefully it won't be an issue.
It really all depends on the substrate underneath the tile and the grout used. We are a big proponent of epoxy grout. What type of shower door do you have? Is it frameless? Also, does the curb pitch in?
@@groutrx1415 ya my shower door is a frameless sliding one. No water escapes the shower but there is one grout line that gets wet and you can see the grout line on the other side of the water threshold get darker from capillary action. The curb is pitched so water does run back into the shower.
I'm prob just being paranoid about that grout line causing problems since it probably needs to be soaked a long time for significant amounts of water to travel from that one grout line and cause issues t the floor
@@Chanmantroop10 I think you are okay. You might keep an eye out for cracking in the horizontal grout lines of the threshold as that would be an indication of expansion. In any event, the type of damage shown in this video takes years to occur and only having one grout line with no way for the water to get trapped. If you wanted to, you could actually seal that one grout line with some clear nail polish.
How’s your shower holding up? Any signs of water damage?
Our shower threshold currently slopes outwards, putting water on the floor. I plan to remove the top tiles and replace with an engineered stone piece as you demonstrate, but what's the best way to change the slope so it's inward, shims under the foamcore board (or on top) or something else. Also, the width of the current threshold is 5", but I can't find anything 5x84 (or 5x60 which is closer to what I need). Should I try to cut a piece of Satori down to 5"?
These are great questions. With regard to the slope, you can put shims every 6 “ underneath the foam core board, pilot holes so they won’t split, then screw it down. Regarding the threshold, I usually have a slight overhang but if 1/2” on either side is too much then you can either get one custom cut at a marble counter top place OR you can cut down the one you purchase at Lowe’s with a wet circular saw for tile. See link below. You will need to put a guide on the piece with a clamp and run the saw down the guide. Finish the edge with 220 grit sand paper followed by 440, 800, and all the way up till you think you like the finish. www.flooranddecor.com/installation-tools-tile-stone-installation-materials/dewalt-wet-and-dry-handheld-masonry-tile-saw-100016013.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw4-Stvq__QIVbubjBx2mjgcPEAQYASABEgJbJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
We have a threshold that is pitched outward and leaking. It sustained some water leakage from behind the grout line. Can we possibly shave the top of threshold with a diamond blade shaver of some sort or does it need to be totally reset?
It really depends. You can send pictures to d-morrison@groutrx.com and I will take a look and offer some advice.
Im doing the install of my threshold today and this video was SUPER helpful!!! Thank you @raveinteriordesign
Thanks! I hope it goes well and that you get great long lasting results. I also hope you find some of our other videos helpful. Your feedback is greatly appreciated and feel free to reach out with any questions. - David
I have damage to the top of a kerdi curb (foam) when removing the tile before installing a new solid sill as you did. Can I adhear the Latapoxy 300 directly to the kerdi foam and/or band to waterproof the kerdi damage?
The first question that comes to mind is "what is the extent of the damage?" I will go on record stating that while I appreciate the solid foam core shower pans by Wedi and Schluter, one of the things I was never a fan of was the foam core thresholds that had no pitch built in. I feel like if the damage is minimal and you can secure a thin strip to the outside to give it a structure that would pitch the solid piece inward, if the Latapoxy 300 is applied thoroughly and evenly, you should be in good shape to apply it to the damaged top.any damage you did to the waterproofing membrane that went over the foam core threshold will be sealed by the engineered stone and the fact that you won't have any grout lines. The key word is thorough and make sure to caulk the left and right seems with Lexal caulk as there will be some sort of gap between the walls and the threshold. Email me at d-morrison@groutrx.com with any further questions. If you send pictures or video, that can help tremendously in me knowing exactly what is going. Offering guidance not being on site can be a tricky proposition and I don't want to mislead anyone. David
What seals the threshold where it meets the floor? I have a similar shower threshold that now has a large gap on the 90 where the threshold meets the floor - however I have a stone tile floor that isn't 100% flush. Seems like that would be hard to seal with caulk?
In new installations, we treat the floor with either a waterproof uncoupling membrane (for lager tile) or backer board treated with a liquid membrane (for smaller tile). We then use a 6"-8" wide waterproofing tape (like Schluter Kerdi-Band) as a flashing between the floor and the walls to prevent any overage from mopping or water from tub/shower installations from seeping into the subfloor. Ideally that waterproofing tape would be at the seam you are describing because all waterproofing should happen under the tile. Ceramic tile and grout are not waterproof as water can soak through the grout and cracks, even when sealed. Since you likely do not want to demo out your existing bathroom to achieve this, we then go to alternatives that may not be idea but can accomplish what we want to accomplish. Depending on the size of the gap, I might remove the grout out of the tile seam and perhaps 6"-12" away from the threshold. I would then mix Spectra Lock Epoxy grout (stay away from the premixed variant) slightly thinner than recommended matching the grout color. Then grout the lines and seams and call it a day. Spectra Lock needs to be cleaned up thoroughly but for such a small area, it shouldn't be difficult. If the seam isn't too big, caulk can work, but it won't provide protection in areas where the grout lines extend away from the enclosure. The best and most obvious thing to do is try to keep water in the shower. I know this is a long winded answer, but when you are not starting with new construction, you have to improvise. In my humble opinion, true 2 part epoxy grout is the best way to achieve waterproofing after the fact.
How do you cut the 6” deep engineered stone sill? I have a similar thing I am doing with a 6” sill and am not sure how to cut it for a nice clean square end.
I usually mark it with a speed square and cut it free hand with an angle grinder. If want a cleaner cut, use a circular wet saw with a speed square clamped to the sill as a guide. This is a great question and one I should cover in a video. Let me know if this helps. www.flooranddecor.com/installation-tools-tile-stone-installation-materials/dewalt-wet-and-dry-handheld-masonry-tile-saw-100016013.html?M-Shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkIJR4irXHSQE1PpxlYK1-qbHK4lAC0tSUl3UN56Feu5AHeM_nv6zA4aApQJEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
What is the correct length to cut the curb top. Is there expansion gaps?
You could leave a pretty small expansion gap on either side, perhaps a 1/16th of an inch, but the product is relatively stable and should not expand or contract, nor should the wood framing if properly waterproofed.
What do you use to cut the stone? Just a diamond blade?
Any diamond tipped angle grinder blade will work well. You can do this as a dry or wet cut. The engineered stone does not chip. I am usually using an angle grinder on cuts like these as the threshold is too long and clumsy to manipulate for the wet saw.
My mother's shower curb looks like it was installed backwards so any water that hits her glass door ends up outside the shower on her bathroom floor... some of the outer tiles are cracking at the grout lines & one tile on the top of the threshold is cracked... it's was done about 5 years ago... can I just remove the top tiles & loose side tiles & replace them after addressing the slope issue? I made her a temporary solution but taping some vinyl cove base upside down to the glass with flex tape to bypass the threshold & it's holding up & helping tremendously but it's a temporary solution to a huge problem. Unfortunately the contractor is her uncle (my godfather 😒) & she never signed a contract so getting him to address the issue has proven impossible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated 🙏
The glass enclosure will definitely need to be removed and re-installed. You can remove and replace the tiles, but I would suggest using a single piece of engineered stone for the top portion of the threshold as shown in the video. Lowes has a beige version of the Satori 6" wide threshold that I used which will work nicely. You emailed me pictures and from the looks of it, there was a Schluter shower pan used, but the height of the threshold does not look like the standard foam core threshold they sell. Regardless, the pitch needs to be corrected and you will likely need to accomplish this with shims which you can pick up at Lowes. As much as I like to encourage DIY projects, there are a number of moving parts to this and you might consider hiring a professional.
www.lowes.com/pd/TimberWolf-Actual-0-1875-in-x-1-5-in-x-7-9375-in-12-Pack-Composite-Shims/3377156?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-mlw-_-ggl-_-LIA_MLW_135_Windows-Patio-Door-Garage-_-3377156-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=CjwKCAiAy_CcBhBeEiwAcoMRHIheLGXwZFmsDlcvUpudoVEIlzLN1ELcKg_ttGQnmgmuW3dSly443BoC83EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Where do I find this foam core board?
I get it at a local tile store, Morris Tile, but you can contact Wedi for a distributor. That is our favorite product.
www.wedi.net/en/
skipped the most important part.... the slope lol
Are you referring to a slope to the interior? I believe we made sure to have it sloped inward in this particular installation. Hope the video was helpful.
@@groutrx1415 yeah the slope towards the inside, I already did mine, did a poured concrete and sloped it, I just always wondered if it's better to slope the frame or the tile? Because when people stack 3 2x4 they're straight, there's no slope... But the whole point of the liner or waterproofing underneath the tile is in case water gets through, so I'm guessing both the frame and tile need to be sloped?
@@EJfromNYC If you put a series of shims under the last of the three 2x4s, that should provide you with enough slope to let the water shed into the pan. It is sturdier and true if it is built into the frame. If I have my table saw on site, I sometimes cut the slope into the last 2x4.
man thats a shitty tile job