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Glad the video helped out!

These are the best messages to get. Glad we could help out.

Great question. You could try using rain x product. It would need to be applied perhaps once or twice a year.

I appreciate the feedback and wish you a speedy recovery. If you don't have a wet vac, shut the water off, flush, quickly dump about 3 gallons (a bucket full of water) into the pot which will quickly drain out the rest of the water. Sponge up the remaining water. Wishing you a speedy recovery.

Thanks for the feedback and apologies for any poor production quality.

Are you referring to a slope to the interior? I believe we made sure to have it sloped inward in this particular installation. Hope the video was helpful.

@@groutrx1415 yeah the slope towards the inside, I already did mine, did a poured concrete and sloped it, I just always wondered if it's better to slope the frame or the tile? Because when people stack 3 2x4 they're straight, there's no slope... But the whole point of the liner or waterproofing underneath the tile is in case water gets through, so I'm guessing both the frame and tile need to be sloped?

@@EJfromNYC If you put a series of shims under the last of the three 2x4s, that should provide you with enough slope to let the water shed into the pan. It is sturdier and true if it is built into the frame. If I have my table saw on site, I sometimes cut the slope into the last 2x4.

You could leave a pretty small expansion gap on either side, perhaps a 1/16th of an inch, but the product is relatively stable and should not expand or contract, nor should the wood framing if properly waterproofed.

Thanks you for your feedback, but the point of this video was to demonstrate that you have to make choices in laying out tile and there will always areas where the tiles will be centered and others where they will not. In this particular instance, we reviewed with the customer where we would start the pattern and this is what they chose.

I often think of that scene when I am on my knees scrubbing a floor.

Glad it helped you out.

Thanks! I hope it goes well and that you get great long lasting results. I also hope you find some of our other videos helpful. Your feedback is greatly appreciated and feel free to reach out with any questions. - David

The first question that comes to mind is "what is the extent of the damage?" I will go on record stating that while I appreciate the solid foam core shower pans by Wedi and Schluter, one of the things I was never a fan of was the foam core thresholds that had no pitch built in. I feel like if the damage is minimal and you can secure a thin strip to the outside to give it a structure that would pitch the solid piece inward, if the Latapoxy 300 is applied thoroughly and evenly, you should be in good shape to apply it to the damaged top.any damage you did to the waterproofing membrane that went over the foam core threshold will be sealed by the engineered stone and the fact that you won't have any grout lines. The key word is thorough and make sure to caulk the left and right seems with Lexal caulk as there will be some sort of gap between the walls and the threshold. Email me at d-morrison@groutrx.com with any further questions. If you send pictures or video, that can help tremendously in me knowing exactly what is going. Offering guidance not being on site can be a tricky proposition and I don't want to mislead anyone. David

I usually mark it with a speed square and cut it free hand with an angle grinder. If want a cleaner cut, use a circular wet saw with a speed square clamped to the sill as a guide. This is a great question and one I should cover in a video. Let me know if this helps. www.flooranddecor.com/installation-tools-tile-stone-installation-materials/dewalt-wet-and-dry-handheld-masonry-tile-saw-100016013.html?M-Shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkIJR4irXHSQE1PpxlYK1-qbHK4lAC0tSUl3UN56Feu5AHeM_nv6zA4aApQJEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

It really depends on who is doing it and what the scope of work is. If I were doing something like this job, if would run just under $1,000. That includes the plumbing.

Thank you!

This was a mortar bed shower. Be careful with Schluter showers where the curb is simply a foam core block. They do not stand up well to selective demolition work.

I appreciate the feedback and happy if it helpedd you out.

@@groutrx1415 I used your instructions, and it came out perfectly <3

Thanks!

Hope it works well for you.

Much appreciated. I have my favorite channels as well, Food Wishes and Middle Eats are among them. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm happy to help people out.

@@groutrx1415 did my tiles yesterday and followed your advice, ESPECIALLY with the sponge. It doesn’t take a lot to make that floor wet and the grout loose. Thank you again for this helpful and straightforward video

There was no mortar mixed in this video. If you are referring to what was applied to the original backer board, it was mixed properly and bonded quite well to the substrate. The problem in this particular instance was that the backs of the tiles were not wiped clean of dust and thinset was not worked into the backs prior to setting them.

There are specific type of washers for this. www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-Spacer-Shims-Standard-Package-5-Packs-of-5-772453/203734816?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-4035595-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-4035595-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3-71700000112195199--&gclid=CjwKCAjwg4SpBhAKEiwAdyLwvGgRaGRr8Et4Yzjy1VfqaU1mzsYCu1YURBLur5hjEsPtgz0fsNP6yRoC4X8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Here is a video on using them: czcams.com/video/uhbR9tzw7FY/video.html

Glad you found this helpful!

I used an angle grinder with a diamond tipped blade for tile. There are a variety that you can buy, all relatively inexpensive. If it is your first time using an angle grinder, take a few passes and don't cut all the way through on the first pass. They can kick a bit. Here is a link to both products, but I really am not married to any brand: www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-CFT-7-5A-4-1-2-in-Angle-Grinder/5001503053 www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-4-1-2-in-Diamond-Blade-2-Ct-BOGO-Pk/1001310088

In order to do this closer to the edge, you need to secure the entirety of the tile to a scrap piece of wood you don't mind marking up. If you secure the tile with a number of clamps and then cut it as shown in the video, the vibration will be mitigated making it less likely for the tile to break. Whenever there are thin cuts, the possibility for breakage does exist. Next time I make a round of videos, I will demonstrate, but I hope this helps in the mean time.

You will need to measure and mark the tile for a compound cut. The video link below demonstrates this, but it was a floor tile. I hope this helps. czcams.com/video/25g7Zma-2-w/video.html

Message me with any questions.

Any diamond tipped angle grinder blade will work well. You can do this as a dry or wet cut. The engineered stone does not chip. I am usually using an angle grinder on cuts like these as the threshold is too long and clumsy to manipulate for the wet saw.

If you are pulling out and replacing the job box or wiring, an 1/8" margin around the box isn't going to allow you to take that box out or re-run wire any easier than if the tile goes up to the edge of the box. Any work like that is going to result in a bit of wall repair and new tiling. That being said, if people feel more comfortable leaving an 1/8" margin around the receptacle box, who am I to ague? I guess it doesn't hurt to check the wiring and position of the box prior to tiling around it as making any repairs are best done before tiling, but if everything is wired well and the outlet is where you want it. you shouldn't need to fiddle with it in the future.

@@groutrx1415 I could be wrong, but it seemed to me in the video that the tiles above and below the box went well beyond the box's height. I could not see any outline of the electrical box. As far as "everything being wired well," with more and more DIY'ers doing their electrical wiring these days, all bets are off on what the future holds.

All great points. Thanks for your input. @@KJ_nyc

I will take a Walter White comparison over Colonel Klick comparison any day (from another commenter on this very video).

You might also check out this video series specifically about floor tile: czcams.com/video/BVnx7-3uCqc/video.html

Thanks. It is always good to hear positive feedback on these videos. My hope is that they will help DIYers and tradesmen out and get conversation going about methods and practices.

In new installations, we treat the floor with either a waterproof uncoupling membrane (for lager tile) or backer board treated with a liquid membrane (for smaller tile). We then use a 6"-8" wide waterproofing tape (like Schluter Kerdi-Band) as a flashing between the floor and the walls to prevent any overage from mopping or water from tub/shower installations from seeping into the subfloor. Ideally that waterproofing tape would be at the seam you are describing because all waterproofing should happen under the tile. Ceramic tile and grout are not waterproof as water can soak through the grout and cracks, even when sealed. Since you likely do not want to demo out your existing bathroom to achieve this, we then go to alternatives that may not be idea but can accomplish what we want to accomplish. Depending on the size of the gap, I might remove the grout out of the tile seam and perhaps 6"-12" away from the threshold. I would then mix Spectra Lock Epoxy grout (stay away from the premixed variant) slightly thinner than recommended matching the grout color. Then grout the lines and seams and call it a day. Spectra Lock needs to be cleaned up thoroughly but for such a small area, it shouldn't be difficult. If the seam isn't too big, caulk can work, but it won't provide protection in areas where the grout lines extend away from the enclosure. The best and most obvious thing to do is try to keep water in the shower. I know this is a long winded answer, but when you are not starting with new construction, you have to improvise. In my humble opinion, true 2 part epoxy grout is the best way to achieve waterproofing after the fact.

The standard ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) height toilets must have, a 17”-19” floor to bowl rim height, including the seat. In most cases, this is still too low for people with significant mobility issues to use. I'm not sure about the toilet in this video, but there have been more than a few ADA compliant toilets that have needed additional height. Keep in mind, a standard toilet height falls around 14.5" so an ADA compliant toilet doesn't add too much to the overall height of the seat. Regarding the replacing the toilet bowl if it is leaking, yes, that would be a good idea, but in this particular case, the bowl was not leaking. If you are considering raising a toilet, first consider the degree of difficulty the individual has in getting up from a standard chair (18"-20"). If that person has no difficulty getting up from 19", an ADA toilet will likely do the trick. If they have an issue at that height, that person will need some sort of riser.

@@groutrx1415 Thanks for the educational explanation on how it works from ADA standpoint. Just out of curiosity, would it be code compliant to raise the bowl with poured, formed, concrete on slab? Thanks again.

@@curiouskitten Code varies from state to state but there shouldn't be any issue per se in having a raised closet flange embedded in poured concrete, though if you are doing this after a slab has already been poured, you will need to reinforce the newly poured pedestal that you are pouring with some type of structured metal that will extend into the slab to secure it properly and prevent it from crumbling. If you are truly committed to a toilet higher than 19", that would be optimal.

@@groutrx1415 thank you!

Thanks. This was one of those one off repairs that I don't get the opportunity to do often, but it is a great solution for tile installation on metal lathe and mortar. Saves a ton of money on demo and time. This was a 1.5 day long job.

@@groutrx1415 really cool looks better than before 👍

It has been a number of years since I have been on that job site, but I believe it is a Kohler toilet. The dimensions for the base I used are in the link below. www.vitalitymedical.com/toilevator-toilet-riser.html?network=g&device=c&keyword&campaign=916499233&adgroup=pla-340725350369&gclid=CjwKCAiAyc2BBhAaEiwA44-wW36dMaMtcDbRzL-7WLZFvZz7b7RMabgKGuI-4nnhKpSC2nyzk1Pi3xoCaKcQAvD_BwE

Usually for all wet areas, GFCI are employed. I do not recall if an outlet was in line on this particular job.

🤣A new revision on an old turn of phrase... Those who can't, comment on CZcams.😂

@@thehighpointrichmond3044 🥰🤣

Everyone is entitled to their opinion.

Thanks for the feedback. This is a very specific situation relative to the adjacent faucet but the principle remains the same whenever someone needs to gain access to an area behind a tile. The biggest issue we face is that homeowners don't have extra tiles. In this case they did but it is always good to save a few extra tiles when installing tile. You never know when they will come in handy!

Sometimes you cant escape from the fact that elbow grease and hard work are the only remedy.

We hope you enjoy the content on the channel. Thanks for your feedback and watching our videos!

That's a great point. I should probably keep one in my kit.

At the very least a set of open end box end combo SAE wrenches.