Just an FYI. Often coatings appear dead because they've essentially been "clogged" up. The way to test for it is first do a full proper decon, which should include the following: - PH neutral hand wash - Clay with a clay bar, or towel/mitt. - Iron Remover - Water Spot Remover - (optional) Tar remover. - Acid Hand Wash with a strong acid shampoo or spray - Alkaline Hand Wash with a strong alkaline shampoo or spray Most of the time, if a coating appears to be failing early, doing all those things will bring back it's performance. Make sure to allow the decon chemicals the appropriate amount of time to dwell before continuing.
I especially think the current "graphene" coating was still performing, cause the areas of failure you showed were the high dirt areas like front of hood, fenders, lower half of side, etc.
Yeah this video was after doing a kosch chemie soap wash and then after testing it, it looked like that flat. So I then did iron off and washed it again with descale. It still was flat so I clay barred, and started preparing for new ceramic because they usually always come back after iron off and descale. If they don’t then they are dead.
@@EclisseDetailing That might, or might not, be enough which is why the long list of steps sometimes required. I recommend you check out the video titled: "The No Hype Ceramic Coating Update! (20 Week Update)" by Jamie the Cleaner. Particularly the "Bounce Back" section and on, that starts at about the 15min mark in the video, to get an idea of what it takes to bring back some coatings performance. Recommend the entire video though. The problem is that often times shampoos and Iron removers alone are enough. Shampoos primarily remove loose surface dirt and particles, Iron removers focus on embedded iron particles. Often neither fully address other forms of chemical, mineral, organic, or other embedded contamination. You have no idea how often after a full wash with Descale and Iron remover, the car looks perfect...But when I come out at night, or early morning, and there's a thin layer of dew/moisture on the car surfaces, that you see all the water spots from embedded minerals, bird dropping stains/rings, bug stains, and other contamination, that weren't apparent post wash during the daytime. As for stripping protection or old coatings/sealants/waxes... usually the only way to remove them completely is with mechanical abrasion/polishing. However that's not really required to apply new protection. Nor is that the case with some newer strip products that can help strip old stuff, that are now out on the market. If you want to make sure the surface is fully stripped enough for new protection to go on, I'd skip Adam's Strip Wash, and instead go with either Gyeon Total Remover (for really old protection, primarily sealants or old waxes), or better yet either Kamikaze no.5 KMKZ Cleansing, or Fireball Wax Off. Gyeon being the lightest of the 3 options, but still more aggressive than Adam's Strip Wash. Kamikaze seems to be on par with Fireball, but maybe slightly more aggressive (there's a bit of a debate on that, but seems Kamikaze might be slightly stronger), however both work great. On newer protection, or non-damaged coatings, they might require a few applications, but generally no more than 3-4 for most ceramic coatings. Definitely recommend washing the vehicle a few times with normal shampoo after the strip cleanser applications, to make sure the old protection is gone. Sometimes the chemicals in the cleanser may mask the coatings performance, that then returns after a few washes (rare, but may happen with fresher coatings). No need to wait in between, just go over the surface with your soapy mitt/pad, rinse and repeat a few times, to make sure the coating is really dead. Hope this helps...
So I just did the first wash on that vehicle I put it on because it was covered in pollen and it is honestly the nicest coating I have used so far. Cleaning it is really easy. Definitely the slickest coating yet. They did a tremendous job. The company I talked to before putting this on vehicles and said to do a topper after it cures the four hours so the next day I put a spray coating. They said it is better because it will settle for 30 days.
@@christianr772 Avalon king wants me to do a 6 month update so I will do one in 3 months then 6 months. I think they are curious to see how it does in the real world.
@avalonking so far really good. One of the best I have used. First wash it beads the most I have seen and the water does not even sheet at all. It instantly comes off the vehicle. I will see how good the max looks on its first wash.
Just an FYI. Often coatings appear dead because they've essentially been "clogged" up. The way to test for it is first do a full proper decon, which should include the following:
- PH neutral hand wash
- Clay with a clay bar, or towel/mitt.
- Iron Remover
- Water Spot Remover
- (optional) Tar remover.
- Acid Hand Wash with a strong acid shampoo or spray
- Alkaline Hand Wash with a strong alkaline shampoo or spray
Most of the time, if a coating appears to be failing early, doing all those things will bring back it's performance. Make sure to allow the decon chemicals the appropriate amount of time to dwell before continuing.
You could also add a separate degreaser stage, or just add some degreaser to the PH wash stage.
I especially think the current "graphene" coating was still performing, cause the areas of failure you showed were the high dirt areas like front of hood, fenders, lower half of side, etc.
Yeah this video was after doing a kosch chemie soap wash and then after testing it, it looked like that flat. So I then did iron off and washed it again with descale. It still was flat so I clay barred, and started preparing for new ceramic because they usually always come back after iron off and descale. If they don’t then they are dead.
@@EclisseDetailing That might, or might not, be enough which is why the long list of steps sometimes required. I recommend you check out the video titled: "The No Hype Ceramic Coating Update! (20 Week Update)" by Jamie the Cleaner. Particularly the "Bounce Back" section and on, that starts at about the 15min mark in the video, to get an idea of what it takes to bring back some coatings performance. Recommend the entire video though. The problem is that often times shampoos and Iron removers alone are enough. Shampoos primarily remove loose surface dirt and particles, Iron removers focus on embedded iron particles. Often neither fully address other forms of chemical, mineral, organic, or other embedded contamination. You have no idea how often after a full wash with Descale and Iron remover, the car looks perfect...But when I come out at night, or early morning, and there's a thin layer of dew/moisture on the car surfaces, that you see all the water spots from embedded minerals, bird dropping stains/rings, bug stains, and other contamination, that weren't apparent post wash during the daytime.
As for stripping protection or old coatings/sealants/waxes... usually the only way to remove them completely is with mechanical abrasion/polishing. However that's not really required to apply new protection. Nor is that the case with some newer strip products that can help strip old stuff, that are now out on the market. If you want to make sure the surface is fully stripped enough for new protection to go on, I'd skip Adam's Strip Wash, and instead go with either Gyeon Total Remover (for really old protection, primarily sealants or old waxes), or better yet either Kamikaze no.5 KMKZ Cleansing, or Fireball Wax Off. Gyeon being the lightest of the 3 options, but still more aggressive than Adam's Strip Wash. Kamikaze seems to be on par with Fireball, but maybe slightly more aggressive (there's a bit of a debate on that, but seems Kamikaze might be slightly stronger), however both work great. On newer protection, or non-damaged coatings, they might require a few applications, but generally no more than 3-4 for most ceramic coatings. Definitely recommend washing the vehicle a few times with normal shampoo after the strip cleanser applications, to make sure the old protection is gone. Sometimes the chemicals in the cleanser may mask the coatings performance, that then returns after a few washes (rare, but may happen with fresher coatings). No need to wait in between, just go over the surface with your soapy mitt/pad, rinse and repeat a few times, to make sure the coating is really dead. Hope this helps...
@@BigBear-- I always polish before putting new ceramic on and most of the cars or boats need compound before that
Curious how it works for you. I’ve been waiting to see someone apply the GOAT! I’m waiting until the weather is nice enough to make use of my bottle!
So I just did the first wash on that vehicle I put it on because it was covered in pollen and it is honestly the nicest coating I have used so far. Cleaning it is really easy. Definitely the slickest coating yet. They did a tremendous job. The company I talked to before putting this on vehicles and said to do a topper after it cures the four hours so the next day I put a spray coating. They said it is better because it will settle for 30 days.
@@EclisseDetailing Good to know. I’ll be following your story and how it evolves!
@@christianr772 Avalon king wants me to do a 6 month update so I will do one in 3 months then 6 months. I think they are curious to see how it does in the real world.
@@EclisseDetailing just checking in quickly, how's it looking?
@avalonking so far really good. One of the best I have used. First wash it beads the most I have seen and the water does not even sheet at all. It instantly comes off the vehicle. I will see how good the max looks on its first wash.