3D printing mysteries that need to be solved in 2024
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2024
- Check out my 2nd channel, TT Racing: / @ttracingyt
As 2023 comes to a close, there’s some burning questions I’d like help answering. In this video, I explore six mysteries on my mind, in the hope we can solve them in 2024.
Generally, this video is fun, but community toxicity is a serious topic worth examining. Let’s hope we can do so in a positive way.
0:00 Introduction
0:42 What ever happened to non-planar printing?
Non-planar printing video: • Achieve true 3D printi...
www.nonplanar.xyz/
CNC Kitchen Non-planar website: www.cnckitchen.com/blog/non-p...
3:13 Does filament flow differently in each hemisphere?
Coriolis force wiki: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corioli...
Toilet flushing article: www.howitworksdaily.com/do-to...
4:42 Why is the maker community becoming more toxic?
Normal distribution graphic by D Wells: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
RatRig build: • Rat Rig V-core 3 build
SK-tank build: • SecKit SK-Tank build
8:36 Why does my filament snap like this?
9:20 What is the 3Dbenchy’s secret?
3Dbenchy website: www.3dbenchy.com/features/
3Dbenchy explainer video: • How a 3DBenchy can tel...
Real Same Prentice CZcams channel: / therealsamprentice
10:55 What creates these surface artefacts?
12:44 Conclusion
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Thanks for all of the comments/answers! 99% of people have engaged constructively with the community toxicity topic. Regarding the 3Dbenchy, message from Paulo Kiefe:
"I can assure you that assembling two 3DBenchys (chimney to cargo bay) is not coincidental. I am the co-inventor of 3DBenchy, which I designed in cooperation with Daniel Norée in 2015. We called it the Yin-yang feature.
There is also another hidden aspect of 3DBenchy. Most people notice the CT3Dxyz text on the bottom surface and the #3DBenchy tag on the nameplate on the stern. But so far, I have not seen anyone find the hidden text inside the cabin just below the roof; it is in tiny lettering, and its text reads Creative-Tools.com CC BY-ND 4.0.
It is great fun to see that Daniel's and my 3DBenchy is so widely spread. Currently, I am developing the open-source construction set #Stemfie3D."
The 3D printing world's Konami Code.
as for why your filament is breaking like that inside the tube, its simply because the filament is being straightened out, at a bend radius that is not similar to the area of the spool it came off of. so as the spool gets used up, the filament wants to be in a tighter circle. you should notice that a fresh spool will not break as often, but a empty spool with tight coils will break alot. doesnt even need to be in a tube, just try stretching some out straight with some tape and see what happens.
so the only way to stop it is to unload the printer if you arent going to use it in the next 24hrs.
I'm in canada and my extrude coils go in the same direction as yours (4:14) just FYI
What exactly is "toxic" about people requesting a Voron build? Receiving a multitude of such requests doesn't make them toxic. They aren't coordinated, are they?
So what is that you think the word "toxic" means?
8:54 Have you tried to dry the spool? Moisture makes filament brittle, which is especially noticeable on industrial filaments like PA6-CF, however I didn’t know it could get this bad on regular PLA. Note that I haven’t experienced brittle industrial filaments first hand, but I have experienced this exact issue with with PLA/wood mixed fillament, and when I dried the spool it was like brand new! :)
Edit: spelling
There is an other secret regarding the benchy: the hole in the back is supposed for you to put there a string of filament, as to resemble a fishing rod.
I always thought it was for those cocktail picks with a flag...
Nope, 1.75mm won't fit. The filament fits instead in the back hole at the base of the hull.
@@bonovoxel7527 Yet those are the same size: 2mm . Gotta check you XY holes accuracy, a bit too much flow there.
@@bonovoxel7527it’s a bench test boat. Therefore. Your printer isn’t printing accurately enough.
Sweet lol just did it!
Non-planar is still incredibly interesting and it's a real shame it never seemed to take off. I would still like to see companies work on integrating it. Maybe one day.
I'd love to see it as an option for the ironing pass, if nothing else.
its a software problem. theres software. but its not cheap, and theres nothing open source i can think of that comes close enough to be used without major development.
I looked through this recently and I think it exposes a weakness in the open source model. There have been multiple experiments around non-planar printing in the open source world by college students, as soon as they graduate and get a job these seem to be abandoned. It is a considerable amount of work to implement and nobody is getting paid to spend the time to add this feature. I think in the end it will end up coming from a Bambu or Prusa, a company who employs their own programmers who can spend the time needed to add this feature and will benefit from the vastly superior top layers on slanted and lightly curved objects, but even then, they would only stand out with the feature if it was not opened sourced so maybe this would not motivate them.
I think the reason non planer is slow is it is very machine specific. And it is a User Interface nightmare. Some machines like the x1c have the ability to do "object" prints in the same build. (printing multiple layers of the same object as long as it is far enough away from others.) Because of the multi material it makes sense. but with many printers this would not be good enough to warrant development. I don't expect this to transfer to other slicers.
Would love non-planar to be an option. Improve strength and surface quality.
Non-planar makes the slicng way more complicated. If you think about it like a pendulum adding non-planar is like a double pendulum. There are so many more variables to account for which leads to a virtually infinite way to slice your model none being the "best" or most direct way to solve it. Then you combine that with hardware limitations, since all printers currently work off of cartesian axis, and you have an exponentially harder problem to solve.
Interms of robotics youre basically going from a SCARA robot to a 6DOF robot arm.
I'm actually currently working on a nonplanar-slicer. Currently the main goal is removing the need for most supports, but non planar ironing can be added later. My last issue is limitting the max angle while trying to maximize layer height. I have actually found a way to solve this, but implementing it(while not making slicing take an hour) has been tricky,since my brain went "it's christmas leave me alone" and forgot how to do basic math. Should have a basic version out soon...I hope...
Id love to test that on my longer lk5 pro
I'm sitting here thinking "I sure hope this isn't another c++ implementation so I could enjoy contributing to it".
@@crashingsux I will have a video on this account as soon as possible. And the project is written in c#. I just gotta do a quick refactor before I publish it.For now it has 1 flaw,it only works with very thin layer heights, like 0.15mm for 0.6mm nozzles but I will explain why in the video. I do have to add that Ihave a small exam in a week soo refactoring and making an explanation video on the algorithm may be a bit delayed.
Edit:I do already have an idea on how to fix the layer height I just couldn't get that fix to work yet.
@@U_Geek preemptively subscribing :) Dunno when I'll use non-planar for, but I want to give it a try one of these days...
@@crashingsux why does it matter if its in c++ or not?
Regarding the artifacts, the longer the extruder flows continuously the temperature at the very tip of the nozzle starts to drop, which changes the viscosity/dynamics of the flow over time, so when it is printing the same layer or very similar layers many times (which would have a consistent layer time) the dynamics of the flow are consistent. When the layer time is different, even if is the same G-Code for a certain part of the layer, the result will be different due to this temperature variation. That also means that the K value "calibration" for the pressure advance is not perfect for all the print, but for a very specific case. In a perfect world this K value would change during print according to the dynamics of the flow.
I'm currently working on a possible solution to that as my final college project. I should post the results on my youtube channel soon
You are the second channel i follow now in this comment section, having a possible solution to one of each problem spoken about in this video. Many great minds were apparently summond by this very video.
This is the conclusion I reached many years ago as well (and was explaining to someone on Reddit today, actually). Good luck with your dissertation!
Should be able to reduce the effect by limiting the flow rate to the lowest value. Or in other words, when slicing make sure the flow rate is constant for the entire print. Pressure advance though is another matter, but may have a reduced effect too, I believe.
I have thought about this problem as well. Unfortunately, I am not smart enough to solve it. Non-linear pressure advanced based on print speed would be ideal. I use Cura to replace parts of the GCode in order to change the pressure advance at specific layers. This helps with slower first layers and the faster layers later on. It is hacky, but did show an improvement.
there's a video fixing this in bambu slicer by normalizing the flowrate throughout the print
The filament direction is more likely affected by the rotation of the extruder's screw, pressure gradient inside the nozzle from that motion and milling of the nozzle than anything else. The coriolis effect can be seen in some large circular pools, if they are left completely undisturbed for long periods. It has more profound effects on large, high water-mass weather systems like storms than a 3d printer.
I would have to agree in adding try swapping the stepper motor to the opposite side and have it push from the other direction and see if it changes the direction of pressure out of the nozzle enough to go the other way
Your logic is not welcome here :D
And the twist of the filament or the Boden tube.
Coriolis effect only becomes noticeable on huge scales.
There is also a high possibility it has to do with fluid dynamics as well since filament heated to that temp likely behaves similarly to very viscous honey. Don't ask why this video stuck with me and it took forever to find it again, but SmarterEveryDay did a video about it like 12+ years ago. czcams.com/video/zz5lGkDdk78/video.html
Interestingly, it seems like they coil in the same direction as the honey in the original video as well, almost definitely just a coincidence though
Regarding toxicity in the community - I think it just natural progression of having more people into the hobby. More people = more number of toxic people as well. I experience this to some of the communities in different hobby that i joined in. Smaller group if there a couple of annoying members its easier to shut them or ignore them, but with more people there will also be alot more of them and they also become noisier.
Anyway just wanna thank you for helping me setup everything for my 3d printer properly. I didnt experience much problem following your advice , been able to troubleshoot most of my issues and is happily printing now. Been interested in this tech since reprap times but I dont have the means back then. Been very happy to finally jump into this.
Tbh its society in general.
Eventually if you go far enough left or right you meet the same nasty individuals.
its not really a hobby for the people that have bambu's. having it be a hobby would mean you know how the printer(s) works and how to fix them. not just click and print. only thing people with bambu's know how to do when they run into issues is email bambu support.
I always lived by the motto that if I wouldn't say something to somebody in their presence, then I would not type it. Unfortunately, people gain a false sense of "bravery" when they are distant or anonymous. I had such experiences in the early days of electronic bulletin boards when, after pointing out quantifiable flaws is somebody's arguements, I was asked if I had killed any astronauts lately.
I still don't see how this was an example of being "toxic". What is toxic about multiple people requesting a specific build? Is it toxic because these same people didn't gush about his personal machine?
I think that's indeed a big part of it. But also society in general, for some reason many ppl are just fixated on a brand or a thing they think is awesome, but then start to defend it no matter what. It's communication basics really, if you're just talking with emotion, you don't have an argument or are not willing to discuss anything really. I learned to ignore those ppl, especially as during the pandemic this was almost ridiculous in general and starts to affect you.
I see the same on Mastodon, for now (given the right groups of course) it's great with enthusiasts that help each other. If companies start to join and then my parents and their pets, that's when it's over.
For toxic people..just ignore them and keep spreading love. Fight hate with love ❤
"This is the way!" - Mando
Referring to the overly enthusiastic "try a voron" people as "pollution" is really unhelpful.
The problem is youtube comment system is useless. There's no real fix except overbearing moderation, which is far more poisonous
Seethe more, voron fanboys
only one comment in that section could even maybe remotely called toxic lmao
As printers become more plug and go, you get people who are not used to researching / experimenting / or asking for help. They don't appreciate the joy of finding a unique solution that works for your use case even though it may not be the "best" solution. Also, we appreciate that if we got the settings wrong, we can actually damage the machine, this means we realize we have to think a bit more about different options to overcome a problem, when we see somebody else doing something different we tend to recognize why that solution might be better (adequate) for them.
I would love for both non-planar and arc supports to get more love, with the latter being the more promising candidate for developments.
Arc supports would be such a nice addition to a slicer's toolkit, where depending on the input geometry other supports could be entirely left out of a print job.
Also it would have far wider printer compatibility than non-planar, since it doesn't need any extra clearance, giving a Prusa or Bambu more incentive to implement it.
For me the largest benefit of arc supports is enclosed overhangs, like holes. It's not even real arc supports, but rather using circular infill on bottom layers. Just because it gives more cooling time and support area compared to the back and forth pattern that Prusa slicer does now.
You, sir, are in the small group of CZcamsrs that are true, genuine people! Thank you for all your teachings!
I feel like Thomas is also pretty much no BS, if something sucks he doesn't hold back. Even companies he had shown full support for.
Did 5 quick purges on the Northern Hemisphere: 3 were clockwise and 2 counter-clockwise.
The coriolis effect just isn't strong enough at those scales. Sinks and bathtubs draining in different directions in each hemisphere is also a myth -- the coriolis effect is FAR weaker than the residual flow of water due to filling or using the water.
It took a lot of effort and five foot wide pool for Veritasium and Smartereveryday to barely demonstrate the coriolis effect on water.
My theory on the toxicity is similar to what we are seeing in the drone community. When it was a small niche group that required effort to learn, a lot of people quit and moved on without time to get started on crusades. As it has become more easier more people are coming into the hobby and staying longer.
I think this is true for any "community". I have lived long enough to see this in dozens of hobbies. It's the people that drive me away from hobbies I thought I would never quit.
@@IzzySpeaksSame. Well said.
Imagine a group being around for a couple thousand years and massively huge.
@@davidthurman3963 you mean like the demorat party?
My mystery is always going to be. "WTF WHY DID IT DO THAT?"
For the surface artifacts: my hypothesis is related to thermal expansion and cooling. When you have a top surface, you print more slowly, thus cooling more the rest.
Shrinkage has a tendency to warp the bottom of the part. When the middle of the part shrinks it pulls inward and the part bows up from the bottom. Same thing happens when welding metal. The hot material cools and shrinks in size while adhering, thus pulling g things closer and bowing the part. The guy didn't really talk about bowing with these artifacts, which is a crucial detail. So either it bowed and he didn't mention it or it didn't bow and thus he brought no attention to it. I would just expect bowing with shrinkage. So perhaps critical data is missing to diagnose the issue.
It´s variations in flow rate, speed and cooling. You can change the preview in the slicer and you will see the difference.
with a layer time that was consistent across the entire part, these went away in my case. they would always show up with large jumps in layer time either direction.
@@mrrooter601 This always, happens in any part. You change the print parameters mid print, it will show.
A "non-planar top layer" option would be really cool, maybe with an angle cutoff to prevent collisions. So the printer could do non planar sections where the angle or height difference was small enough
8:27 “It’s an underappreciated skill to accept and acknowledge differences in opinion with out causing conflict”
- This is a wonderful statement that we can all work on and keep getting better at!
That's for sure! Probably the main reason why politics are so polarizing now.
For the last one I would say cooling time could be one of the factors at play.
Cooling time, flow rate, and z seam alignment are the main issues I see
possibly slowing the print head down on those regions might help too so the filament can be a better temp as it leaves the nozzle
That's a good theory. I think it's probably a combination of a bunch of factors but it hadn't occurred to me that it might not even be down to the layer currently being extruded, but the layer below being relatively colder than the rest.
Cooling time and print speed. If the minimum layer time feature is enabled the machine will print faster where there's solid infill since it doesn't need to slow down to hit the target minimum time. The effect will be most apparent with filaments like Polyalchemy Elixir as the glossiness will decrease with increased speed.
It's time to layer. Just like you can change the appearance of the print with temperature and cooling. When you change the layer's printing time, you change its appearance. The solution to this is to define a minimum period for the layer so that you allow it to be printed constantly.
About the filament snap, I think that's because it's forced to bend in the opposite direction from its natural bend on the spool, especially when print head is all the way on the right. My filament sometimes snaps toward the end of the spool simply from sitting still on a top fed direct drive Ender 3 without reverse bowden. If the spool was flipped and reverse bowden end moved to the top of the spool, it would probably snap less
8:50 shows it. I agree, take the filament off the mount and set it next to the printer on a roller-tray with the spool going the other way so that the filament leaves from the top of the roll instead of the bottom. The other issue is that the entry point into the bowden tube is very close to the edge of the print head and curves in the opposite direction of the tube. So when the head moves all the way right, it's going to cramp up the tube a lot. Attach the bowden tube to the right side of the printer so that it aims straight down and into a roller-tray and further from the gantry edge. Last thing is to make sure to dry out the filament, try other filaments, and try replacing the bowden tube.
exactly !!!
What you said, and if you leave it in that position for a longer period of time, its more likely to snap in multiple places. Some filaments do this quickly, some take longer.
I think it’s definitely related to moisture as well, my filament only snaps at the exposed length, the underneath are not affected at all
@@xidameng I agree. Thought it's due to moisture and properties of the filament. Silk pla never snaps
I would love to see integrated non-planar! This would greatly reduce the strength vulnerability that FDM printers have along the Z axis.
I think a lot of people wanted you to build a voron because you make such in depth and well thought out videos.
I know i'd love a video series of you building a voron because I could use that series to build a voron of my own. Additonally your engineering mindset would be a boon to the voron community, finding issues and resolving them where others might not have.
It's a shame that the die hard voron community produced such a negative image of the community as a whole. Voron is open source and benefits from the many other 'competing' open source 3d printing projects, so hating on someone for building another printer is disappointing to say the least.
I look forward to your coming videos in 2024 and hope that the previous comments from voron fan boys hasn't ruled out you building a voron in the future.
Happy Holidays and Happy New year!!
I hope he does too. I'm a V-Core3 fan and have nothing against Voron as another option. Might even build one eventually, but any fanatical obsession with any of the printers just hurts the conversation. There's just no argument to really be had here, I think. They're both open and highly modifiable with their own plusses and minuses. Really looking forward to the coming IDEX versions of both, which I hope will also be looked at here. It's a fine middle ground between MMU/AMS vs multi toolhead.
Despite not having built one, I'm a huge Voron fan. I would 100% expect to love building and owning one. One day perhaps I will. The trouble is the expense and space required. If the XL didn't come I think I would have built a Trident by now.
If you Freeze the frame and read the comments, you will see that NONE of them fit the definition of "toxic". Michael just got irritated because so many people expressed what you just expressed. This isn't a Voron community problem, or a toxicity problem. It's a sensitive little fella's problem.
@@TeachingTechprinters for ants time? XD
Seems like this would have been a more appropriate response, letting them know that you have a lot of stuff in the pipeline already but hope to have one someday, rather than calling them toxic and accusing them of "polluting the comments". Seems a bit harsh.@@TeachingTech
I just had to try it... I'm in Canada and my filament also coils clockwise.
Oddly enough I was purging TPU from 2 printers this morning and both wound counterclockwise. I'm in Canada.
Thank you for another year full of great tips, tricks, and fundamental information. Along with your personality and love for things tech, you bring the community together. Thank YOU, and happiest of New Years to you.
Happy New Year! I am so happy I found this channel early on in my 3D printing career.
11:27: This is very apparent on ABS, which has a much higher shrinkage rate than PLA. So my theory is it's due to the total layer time for each layer and how that interacts with the shrinkage of the material. A perfect square or cylinder means the same layer time for each layer, so the shrinkage is uniform. However, when other geometries are introduced, the layer time changes and the amount of shrinkage changes before the next layer is put on top of it. A test for this, which I have not tried yet, would be to adjust the slicer settings (extrusion speeds) such that each layer takes the exact same amount of time.
ABS also suffers from temperature dependent die swell more so than most other materials. The nozzle tip temperature of course isn't controlled by the printer, the probe is basically next to the heater or the threaded part of the nozzle, and depends on any number of things that happened just prior.
In what way are numerous requests for a Voron build "toxic"?
I don't know what a Voron is, so maybe its code for a slur??
1. "Becoming" more toxic?
These comments are from two years ago.
2. "Toxic"? Here are some of the comments frm the screenshot: "You should build a Voron 2.4 and compare it with the SeckIt Go" WHOA! I'm surprised that one made it past the profanity censors. "You would probably love the Voron" OMG...that is SO TOXIC. This is even more toxic: "Now for a Voron so we can get a comparison ty our Rat Rig, Sekit,..."
And then this toxic, profanity-laced post full of hatred : " Awesome. Look forward to seeing you build the Voron"
These people are so TOXIC! Just listen to all the hate an venom in those requests.
Voron is a family of community-designed 3D printers and interchangeable components, and it all follows a consistent design language somehow, but you also have a lot of functional variants to choose from, different sizes and differences in the motion system and different toolheads. They are not a product that Voron sells, but you can buy parts kits from several independent suppliers or source them piece by piece yourself.
@@odinata They aren't :')
And each of those commenters has no clue about how many others left a similar comment. Reeks of entitlement
On topic of the surface artifacts. I would try changing the minimum layer time. My theory is that because the layer with the additional object takes longer there is more shrinkage compared to the previous layer.
If the next layer goes down quicker it reinforces the previous layer and lessens shrinkage.
I concur, if you use the slicer from prusa, orca, or bambu, you can check the speed of each layer by changing the line type. I can almost guarantee that's the cause, as it's something I had noticed in the past as well. This needs a bump
This is true I run into this issue when printing things that need a lot of support
There will be more shrinkage but also the plastic has longer to cool down, so when it gets to that section on the next layer the plastic is much cooler and hence maybe doesn’t fuse as well. Maybe decreasing speed on those sections to allow the layer below to soak up more heat again would help.
If you switch the view to volumetric flow rate and scroll through the layers you'll see it happens whenever the flow rate changes.
@@ExtremeODD in Prusa slicer there is a way to control the volumetric changing speed. Do you think it could solve this problem?
I had initially assumed that it all had to do with printing speed, but the point you make in your video concerning the top infill cooling the nozzle down helps me paint a better picture.
Hypothesis: not only is there more filament flowing causing the hotend to cool down, there is also more time being spent on that second object. Most printing profiles I run tend to have a slower speed when switching from infill to top layers for bridging across the infill to give a nicer top layer. Then, for the other normal top layers (I typically print 3-4 top layers), those layers inevitably take more time to print, allowing the other model (or even other parts of the model) to cool down while this top surface print is happening. When the next layer is then applied onto the existing colder layers, the melted filament cools down even faster (theoretically drawing a minimal amount of heat away from the nozzle as well)
I have tested this theory only once with some overture matte black PLA by first slicing my then troublesome model, finding out the maximum layer time (that isn't the first layer), then re-slicing again but this time with a configured minimum layer time equal to the max layer time found above and enabling variable printing speed to have each layer take the same amount of time. The surface finish was arguably pretty consistent, considering that I was not testing with regular shapes and so there was a significant change in printing speed per layer, but at least those weird transition layer artifacts were gone.
My testing is limited and I'm not super motivated to dig further into it myself, but would love to see what others find!
Regarding the filament breaking in the bowden tube: I've noticed this especially at the end of a filament roll where the filament is bent in a smaller diameter. Furthermore, I guess the filament can not turn that easily inside the bowden, so in your case it looks like the filament might get bent in the opposite direction than how it is bent on the spool. Usually this works while the filament is moving through the bowden, but when it stays in this high-stress position for a few days it tends to break in multiple places. My solution to this problem on my big printer with a long reverse bowden is to remove the filament when I'm not sure if I will print anything in the next few days. Getting the broken filament out of a long bowden tube is a real pain in the a..
I have a new spool of transparent PLA that does this, so in my case it's not a case of "Old filament" (unless it sat in a warehouse for ages, but..).
I'd guess it's a combination of material composition, high stress and moisture. Mine snaps easily by hand too, and tends to just explode during retraction back to my AMS.
Really interested in this. I have ASA in white and ASA in black. Treat them exactly the same and other than a sealed vacuum bag don't worry about humidity. My white acted similarly to Teaching Tech's while my black is fine. I kinda lean towards Grant (3D Musketeers) it being "white filament". Lol
Both print pretty much the same also.
@@GetTheFOutOfMyWayI agree. I've had white and gray ASA and ABS snap like this right out of the package. They seem to be the only colors that do it no matter what brand. It's odd.
@@KiCkiN828
Possibly the titanium dioxide used to colour it? The structure of the plastics would be affected by the additive used to impart colours, and the TiO2 may have a prevalence for messing with the polymer.
Something to ask a chemist.
@@boggisthecat For sure. It would be very interesting.
so I've seen this toxicity thing in various hobbies and I know what causes it, and there's fault at both ends. i also started 3d printing over a decade ago building a mendell i3 from hardware store parts and an Arduino mega. I then went to replicator like many did. and so on. it was great back then. the printers not so much, but the community was great.
but the toxicity came with bambu labs. not the company itself, but the people it brought into the hobby. I'll explain:
hobbies that are niche start off with a smaller community. with less information, there's a necessity to share and collaborate. it's great. the people know their stuff and the new people get lots of encouragement and help, as we WANT the community to grow, as it helps the hobby grow too. my other example where I saw this ironically came from the same people that made bambu: DJI. I was into building quadcopters back when it required you to manually build them from parts. motors, ESC's, a janky flight controller someone in the community made. it was not easy. not easy to learn. not easy to build. not easy to tune. not easy to fly. it was hard. but the community was great. RC hobby is a very old hobby so there was already a little bit of toxicity you could find in specific areas, but the "drone" area wasn't too bad. but then DJI came along and released the phantom. now every moron with $500 in their bank could buy one. they then started flying them above busy highways, above airports, and near-misses started happening, then the FFA started creating restrictions, and we were watching our hobby get destroyed by a sea of morons because a company came along and made the once difficult hobby very turn-key so any ape with opposing thumbs could do it. the toxicity comes from this. they buy one. fly it for a few weeks and learn all about their phantom. now they're technically experts, at least in the consumer level drones, as funny as that is. but when people come ask about quadcopters, those self proclaimed experts chime in with their three weeks of knowledge and confidently give misinformation. the old guys in the hobby that have real experience from before DJI came along would obvious fight against the disinformation and pushed to keep people from ruining the hobby by doing stupid crap like flying them recklessly. this would cause a fight as the self proclaimed phantom experts thought they're the second coming, and it just never ended
same with 3d printing. we've had consumer printers for a while, and while prusa got this as close to turn key as ever, it still required some knowledge and the ability to handle hand tools and do a little common sense experimentation to master. and that's not to mention the OG guys like me that build them from scratch. but then the bambu printers came out and Facebook group created. same thing happened. people with zero experience bought an X1 and became self-proclaimed 3d printing experts a couple weeks after ownership. they then went and started this confident spreading of misinformation. I can't tell you how many people still use glue on every print on their bambus. I gave up trying to fight it. idiots would come argue with me. it's like hello, I made a printer a decade ago when you were possibly in diapers, and we HAD to use glue back then because most printers did NOT have a printed bed. in fact one of prusa's original business ventures was selling pcb heat beds for the reprap printers. I had one. with glass on top held on with binder clips. we used blue tape, Elmer's glue slurry, kapton tape, glue stick, etc. and remember we started printing 2.85mm filament with way more thermal mass, and we printed ABS primarily. it was the most readily available at the time. it was HARD to get prints to stick AND release, and it was a necessity. then prusa released PEI with their i3 mk3 and it changed the game. no more glue. a well cleaned PEI sheet just always stuck. textured for PETG/ABS, and smooth for PLA. (or my favorite, satin, which you can really cover everything). but I see these newbies that only are able to print because bambu made a very turn-key printer and are just being toxic.
and I mentioned both sides in my first paragraph because some toxicity comes from the actual experts too. it's a human thing unfortunately. people ask a question, then every response is a paragraph about how they should learn to search. but if nobody asks because they're only supposed to search, what material are we expecting the search to find? nothing. so I always suggest everyone to just answer the people. choose kindness. yes people should try searching but maybe they already did? either way, if you answer them, that's MORE information that future searching people might find, saving them from needing to ask. PLUS, these hobbies change so quickly. prior answers you find from searching will probably be old information that might not even be 100% relevant now. so it's ALWAYS, 100% of the time, better to just answer the person's question. and the funniest thing is that the toxic experts will spend 15 minutes writing a paragraph about learning to search, when they could either not comment at all, or better yet, type the potentially only one-word answer to the question lol. "for PLA use smooth PEI". boom. question answered. but they'd rather write a novel about using search function. it's insanity.
I left the bambu Facebook group. I tried to tolerate it for a long time, but the people that would just come in and be moronic and toxic was beyond comprehension. I have a few bambu printers and I like them. I even had a phantom and a mavic mini. I wish they'd give back more to open source, as they sort of did to the hobby what bre petis did when he made replicator 2 closed source and sold out to stratasys, becoming filthy rich overnight on work the community built together. bambu did at least comply with making the slicer open, but I think a lot of hardware borrowed enough from things we learned as a community that it should give back, even if they delay that by a product cycle. but that said, I'm not blaming this on them. humans are ultimately the problem. but turn-key solutions to a once-niche hobby I think is a huge factor in what causes this
I understand your reasoning and i can confirm from first hand experience that small tight knit communities where people are strongly dependent on each other are generally very well behaved. When such a community gets flooded with people online who don't feel like they need to belong, who are effectively anonymous (real name or not doesn't matter, it's just not coming back to bite them if they misbehave), things go south quickly.
But i also have a hard time believing that it's Bambu specifically. I have seen all this toxicity in just about any 3D printer group that wasn't well moderated ever since maybe the Anet A8 era, more so since the Ender3 era, because we have had millions of 3D printers around for quite a while.
@@SianaGearz it's not only bambu, as there was a bit of brand elitism before they came around, but at that point it didn't seem too overly toxic. after bambu.... that facebook group is the single most toxic user group i've ever experienced for anything ever. holy cow was it bad
Its nice to see that I'm not the only one noticing that. Last week I was called cheap, unknowledgeable, disrespectful to Bambulab engineers and overall stupid for asking about Aliexpress CHT hotend for P1S on Facebook group for Bambulab printers. If it wouldn't be for the fact that since 2017 I'm involved in 3D printers, I would probably cry in the corner. But instead I cried in the corner because it's an end of an era. 3D Printing community is not a safe space for me anymore, only specific groups like Teaching Tech or others I consider safe, but still that is trust that is lost and will not be rebuilt probably ever.
Looking at the filament i would immediately think its making a turn in the bowden tube it cannot handle (too tight) especially because the filament has snapped on exacly the same side.
2nd thing i can think of is (looking at the machine) that you are forcing the filament to bend the other way then it is on the spool.
Turn the spool upside down so the filament feeds in on the top, make a bracket that high for the tube so it "flows" better to the head without bending it against its natural direction.
Happy New Year, and thank you for your quality content :)
With tripod z axis style printers you could take non-planar printing up another level. Adding a variable bed tilt could not only give a lot more clearance, but reduce the need for supports significantly.
For the discoloration/deformation issue. I would try that rectangle/cylinder test again with each shape at extremes of the bed. Theoretically the travel time between parts would give the hotend a bit of recovery time *if* its a temp/flow related issue
I agree that should help. But for the test model and models like it, the problem will still be there.
Thanks, Michael! 😊
The benchy also doesn't float, unfortunately.
Happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you for an excellent video which gives food for thought. An excellent 2024 to you and your family.
Surface artifacts are caused by differences in pression buildup between layers. If you print just a regular object with seams all in the same place then every layer has the same pressure at the same spots, so layer density is exactly the same at the same position for each layer. You can, for instance, change the seams to other position in the middle of the object, because pressure at the start of a layer is not the same as in the middle, and since you moved the start of the layer to another position you'll notice the difference in pressure in the layers.
Regarding snapping filament, I once re-rolled some filament from a too large reel onto a smaller one, and after about a week, the re-rolled filament just disintegrated into loads and loads of tiny pieces about 20cm long while just sitting on the new reel. The stuff I didn't re-roll is still fine though. It wasn't the best filament or anything, just some cheap bulk for testing, but I was surprised by how quickly it degraded after being straightened and re-rolled just once.
It was wet. I left a roll of pla (ok quality) outside open to the air in my shed where my printer is. It has rained while it was out there too. It became very brittle and I thought the spool was ruined. I baked itbin my oven at about 260° F in a vacuum bag with a bunch of desiccant and that fixed it. No more breaking or brittleness. The next thing I printed with that spool had some quality problems on the first few layers but I think that was just print settings (it was a download that I just used mostly stock settings for my ender 3). Dry filament and keep it dry imo.
I think you're right about that surface finish thing, I think the best way to fix it is to anticipate how much heat will be needed to bring the required volume of plastic up to temperature, and maybe to adjust heater power early to account for how much time it take the heat to make it from the heater into the nozzle.
Many thanks for all your efforts in making the world (and especially the community of 3d-printing) a better place and a happy new year to you too :)
Your videos have helped me many times when I have wrestled with a obstinate CR-10S Pro; replaced fans, installed a BL Touch sensor, installed and configured a Raspberry Pi print server, etc.
I think that your issue with the filament breaking into many pieces is the result of the extruder putting too much compressive stress on the filament in the Bowden cable...? It could be caused by a block, or a partial block, in the nozzle or by a small piece of filament being left in the Bowden cable, jamming the flow of new filament.
Cheers
I have experience similar with the snapping filament. My best guess is that it has to do with the internal stresses of the plastic. There are a few explanations, but my basic idea is that the filament wrapped on the spool is (or becomes over time) the natural state and then straightening it adds stress bc it is bent from its rest. This is especially problimatic for me when filament sits straight in a bowden tube for a couple weeks. Then it is break city. If I know a printer will sit for a little i always try to remove the filament and store it wrapped tight in an "unstressed" state on the spool.
I had learned to never leave filament in a bowden tube (in addition to other issues I think the PTFE eventually messes with PLA's chemistry). But ya I can see that filament from older spools will have the tighter curve memory which can be problematic. But isn't it ironic that we spend all that time protecting new spools from humidity, only to find them go brittle on their own over time. Did we do too good a job keeping them from moisture lol
Hi Michael, great video! With reference to your normal distribution curve, it isn't just makers! I think you will find this behaviour in most sectors. For those of us ordinary people, in the middle section, who want to see how things are developing, the shouters at the edges are a mere distraction. the main problem is that we only say something if there is something to say, the edge dwellers seem to need to shout for the sake of it.
Thank you for making content for those of us who want to hear about the cutting edge. Apologies for not speaking up more often!
I really appreciate this channel and look forward to more interesting and educational content in '24!
8:51 regarding the filament breaking i think it has to do with the fact that with the way it is positioned now you bend it the opposite way it is on the spool the moment it enters the bowden tube.
adding the fact that when the gantry comes to the front right it must also twist(at least im my imagination!) causing the breaks .
i would lower the spool so its top is leveled with the top of the machine and have the filament go from the top of the spool directly to the tube.( flip upside down and left to right)
happy new year to everyone and really really thanks for your guides-videos. definitely a treasure of help and knowledge
Thanks for another year of top notch content! It's appreciated.
Happy New Year! Thanks for a year of incredible content and providing me the knowledge to greatly improve my 3D printing game. Cheers!
Well said 👍
non-planar is the key to 3d-printing really blowing up. sure, there are hurdles with nozzles & such, but the programming should not be an issue (even though it is), if you would work with the 5-6 axis CNC machine people. maybe even incorporate a rotary table to really open up possibilities.
if you could get a Bambu-level ease with non-planar printing & a 450-500mm bed, the industry would *really* go wild & make our hobby an everyday appliance.
I appreciate the video.
I genuinely believe many of the Voron questions were just that. Voron was extremely interesting to us that couldn’t dedicate to building one ourselves. This channel really helped me get into 3d printing & I wish this channel covered everything I was interested in 😂. We respect your point of view & trust your authenticity.
As for the rest of the community toxicity, I think it has to do with treating the “community” like a monolith. People come from many backgrounds & have many different beliefs/values.
In three+ years of 3D printing, I'm proud to say I've only ever printed one Benchy, so I can't have my mind blown by snapping two together.
How is that possible?
There are more useful diagnostic prints
@@Nerlin I'm magic.
Pretty simple, really. 😊
I printed one when I first got my printer. Don't know where it is, now. So, I'm printing two now because I simply have to try snapping two together :)
Same but I'll print it at my friend's house so that i can watch HIS mind blowing first hand!
I learned most of what I know about 3D printing over several years in the Ender3 sub on reddit. It was (and probably still is) a great community. Full of people working together to come up with solutions, making them more elegant and teaching others how to implement them. I spent so much time helping people fine tune their newly installed BL Touch or install Octoprint or even walking them though making their own changes to Marlin, and I received just as much help, it's how I learned all those things.
On the other hand, the Bambu sub is a dumpster fire.
I have similiar experience with Ender-3 and Bambu Facebook Groups. Although I start noticing the trend of abandoning and shaming on the Ender-3 for it's archaicness and very poor price to performance ratio since release of many new high-tech bed slinger printers in 2023
7:18 This is the nicest switchwire I have seen so far. Great job to the builder/maker
I like your channel, you do an outstanding job explaining everything, to the point, direct. Cheers!
Hi Micheal, the last one is due to cooling time. The printer is printing the 'other' print for a longer time at that layer height, allowing the layers on the effected print to cool for longer compared to the rest of the layers.
Minimum layer time...
The community isn't becoming more toxic. More people are joining it and you will always remember people acting like dickheads where as normal people just chatting about printers will not stand out.
Every community for every hobby becomes toxic as it becomes more popular
What about this super toxic comment he got: "I'd be interested in your review of the Voron Trident". I mean, if that's not the most toxic thing anyone has ever said, I don't know what is.
Yeah but vorons are better, if you dont have a voron you dont have a life, buy a voron NOW or i will find you
elementary school children are far more resilient to toxicity than internet users 🤣
@odinata I specifically said that some of the comments were innocent questions asked in good faith, but they add to the chorus. But here you are trying to twist it around. Welcome to that minority I described.
Thank YOU,
Healthy Happy 2024 to ALL
Thankz for another year of great content and high quality videos.
When it comes to toxicity. I just ignore it. The printers I have are the ones that fit in my budget and meet my needs. As long as it works.
easy to do unless you need answers and no one will drop their bullshit to help you
@@richardjohnson3685 I normally search for CZcams videos related to my problem
Layer time with cooling will do that artifact
Yeah, especially with very short layer times the percentage of that time a high fan (for bridging, for instance) is still spinning down and thus providing more cooling than it would on the other layers is significant. I wrecked my brain on this for a while until it suddenly clicked. There's actually a setting to compensate for this in OrcaSlicer (and I think SuperSlicer, where the idea came from) called *Fan Speed-up Time*! It makes fan setting changes occur earlier on and may or may not help you get the activation and deactivation times more in line with whenever the airflow is actually needed on a layer.
This seems to be what I have noticed, I printed an electronics enclosure when it transitioned from the solid bottom to the relativity thin walls there was an obvious line on that layer that coincides with the sharp decrease in layer times.
Thanks for this. I always try to avoid stepping over broken mirrors when walking under a black cat. It can be a handy hint.
I have an answer because I've been testing this myself for months; The bowden tube issue appears to be a matter of stress. The filament is rolled when warm, so it's got stressors for THAT shape. The bowden and mount solution you have (and many people have, myself included) seems to force it to bend backwards, which - especially with translucent PLAs in my testing - can cause those stressors to compound exponentially, especially if it's held in that reverse-shape for a prolonged amount of time. Hatchbox translucent yellow will do this sometimes in less than 2 hours!
Hey Michael, regarding the artifacts at the end: I think it is a combination of seam placement and minimum layer time. I have the same on my Prusa Mini+. During the layers in the beginning the printer slows down a bit because the minimum layer time is triggered to ensure proper cooling of the layers. There are just some perimeters and some infill to print. At the point where it becomes matte the layertime is significantly higher because of the solid top layers of the smaller part. That is why it prints a lot faster at this point and the plastic in the nozzle has less time to melt - so it comes out matte. My way to remedy to this was increasing the nozzle temperature by 10 degrees and placing the seams by hand.
The swollen and cracking filament in the Bowden tube is due to moisture I think. Bake the spool and pull filament from a dry box and you'll be right back to new filament. It could be the heat that's fixing it too, either way baking the spool in the oven or on the heat bed with a cardboard box over it to get it properly dry will fix it.
Could be that it was exposed to UV light as well.
you can still print with it if your Bowden tube doest go against the direction of the spool ,and once it reaches the nozzle the moisture is gone and it prints just fine ,his Bowden tube bends the filament against the direction of the spool so it just breaks ,he needs to have the spool the other way around so not to flex the filament the other way
@@fouzaialaa7962yeah. That is a weird filament tube path
That doesn't track. You can make an experiment, bag a coil of filament in a ziploc bag with a few drops of water. When you retrieve it a few months later, you'll find that the filament is supple, really nice, much more so than when you put it in. You won't be able to print it well, due to foaming and potentially hydrolysis in the hot-end, but it won't break like here in the bowden tube.
You can also show that UV light makes filament brittle, easy experiment. And i surmise fluorine compound fumes that somehow might get knocked out of PTFE might be hazardous as well, and would likely act catalytically without getting consumed in presence of heat. Or maybe a product of filament's own thermal degradation in the hotend travels up the Bowden tube. Because many people have made the experience that specifically the part of the filament in the Bowden tube becomes brittle and nothing else. I personally don't have Bowden though.
I have not seen evidence that baking brittle filament restores it, but then i have not had PLA go that brittle off the spool yet... not even my 7 year old spool... but if it is actually the case, then perhaps it has crystallised and the drying process anneals it? Rather than it being a moisture problem. Like you still need to dry your filament for good prints though, but like i said moisture does not result in brittleness, you can just try it yourself.
And Pooch or his guest i forget made a case that moisture IS bad for PLA and over time causes irreversible molecular damage. But then if it's irreversible, drying it will do not do any good, only maintaining it dry is good enough.
@@fouzaialaa7962 That's a reverse Bowden tube, so the extruder is in the toolhead, the Bowden tube is just a filament guide back to the spool, you can't print like that if you have broken filament.
Maybe I could help with the last one. In Prusa or Orcaslicer you are able to see those differences of the surface quality in the flowrate and speed tab of the table which shows the linetypes after slicing. Have a look at these other views and compare them to the completed print. You will see that the differences of the surface cleary corresponds to the shown different speed/flowrates.
Thank you for for your content, love it and you are one of the best 3d printing enthusiast here on yt. I'am curious as well if the non planar printing became a thing once more, would love to see such features in orca.
Hava good start in 2024,
Greetings from Germany
Great video. I would love a "state of the union" type of a video, discussing the current meta at various price points. You could talk about machines, as well as after-market upgrades and accessories that you consider to be particularly useful.
I live in Spain rn and I tried extruding filament at differents heights but it looks like the way it turns is pretty much indifferent, at least for me, with an Artillery X1 with a Hemera extruder and a Volcano nozzle it doesn't have a preferable way to turn, i'd say probably like a 50/50 chance to turn clockwise and viceversa. I think it's all about the shape of the filament when it's dropping and starting to cool down, as with every little variation it hits the bed slightly different and it turns in the direction that is easier for it to drop flat at first.
That is my general observation, but I'd love to see actual testing on this as I think it's a really interesting proposition.
I'm in the northern hemisphere, and checking the poop box from my X1 Carbon, I have several examples of clockwise extrusion and counterclockwise extrusion. I don't see any indication that it tends to coil in one direction preferentially over the other.
9:10 I've had this happen a lot, I think it's the punishment for living somewhere with mildly above-average humidity
That would be my guess also. Similar breakage is happening to me also, and I'm in an area that experiences 80+% humidity regularly.
For the weird print line artefact that you mentioned near the end, if its heat related you could slow the print speed down so the higher volume/filament through put areas have a lower impact on nozzle temperature or try printing it on a Voron.
The last one happens to me all the time. It always happens with holes etc. and it's also the reason why I print things one at a time instead of in bulk. I've never found out why that happens but it always bugged me.
Hello Michael, nice video as always! I have the answer for the filament snapping, it is due to a phenomen called "strain crystallization", more info here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_crystallization
It will occurs more frequently with PLA than others, I don't know why. Small diameter spool, or when you are at the end of the spool, will increase the stress when unspooled and so this phenomen.
Enjoy the end of the year!
Woohoo it's Gregoire! Get well soon
Interesting, I thought it was just simple humidity (I had spools that did the same, and drying them out stopped the snapping)
3:12 I'd rather use 3- screw leveling to achieve nonplanar than make changes to the printhead
How does that negate the need for a modified print head for more clearance? It might provide a little more leeway, but any machine with a lot of stuff only a couple mm higher than the tip of the nozzle is still not going to work well printing a model with any significant change in surface level. Both would be the best solution.
the hard part is firmware and slicers.
@@ggaub its the easy way to get in. i get nausea when i think about a 5axis extruder-head. but i want to build one soon, when i got LINUXCNC nailed down.
Firmware support is there, it's slicers. I looked into it recently but am no C++ dev and it looks quite hairy to dig into. One of those projects that would I would guess would take me a month or more and that's a ton of time to devote for free.@@simonschneider5913
Michael I think you are right about the flow and the artifacts on the print. I upped my temp by 5c on one of my prints and there was a visual difference in the surface finish as if it was going from a Matte to a more gloss look it's suttle but I can tell. I'd say that as your printing the top of the cube above the cylinder there is more flow and temperature in that area and looks cleaner? That's my guess anyway have a great new year. Also what's going on with your race car I have been eagerly awaiting your next video.
I don't comment often, but have been subscribed for quite a long time. i just wanted to say i really enjoyed this video and to wish you a happy new year!
Hi Michael. The filament snapping is due to being brittle caused by moisture in it. Polymers (especially very hydroscopic ones such as PLA) has its van de walls bonds broken very easily due to water. Thanks for the excellent vids as always 👌
Woosh
I think I understand a single snap, it's the aggression in which this segment napped that I need to understand. I'm wary of a curse..
@@TeachingTech It's because the old brittle filament wants to go back to the same radius it had on the spool. I've had few spools like that. It still printed fine so I just unloaded after each use.
i have 4 old rolls of PLA still sealed in the bag with desiccant i cart even unwind the filament off the roll without snapping, to cure this i put them in the oven for 4 hours at 50C and the they are usable again, not sure if it is moisture or the PLA just getting old.
Toxicity - It shows up everywhere. The 90's were full of Mac vs PC arguments. It is caused by people wanting to reassure themselves that they made the best choice.
Brittle filament - I think it has to do with micro-cracks in the filament. Moisture expands the filament, making the cracks bigger which is why you see more brittleness when the spool has sat out for a period of time. Drying the filament does not remove the cracks, but heating the spool may relieve some of the stress on the cracks. Filament just sitting in the tube has been deformed putting stress on those micro-cracks and allowing them to grow over time.
Regarding the surface artefact: I have had issues with this for a while, mostly within a single part. I have no idea where it comes from but I have a strong suspicion that it is a slicer issue. I have seen this mostly when slicing with Prusa Slicer (or Slic3r earlier) and have had better results when slicing with Simplify 3D for those parts. To me it always seemed a specific problem with those slicers. Temperature issues didn't make sense to me since you get this effect even if you print huge parts when only a small section was done and the top surfaces were printed.
I live in the UK so northern hemisphere both of my printers also extrude in a clock wise motion, I think this is more likely to do with the direction the filament is wound onto the spools and the stresses that form as it cools on the spool. when ever drawing filament from a spool it naturally wants to curl back.
Question:"Why is the 3d printing community becoming more toxic?" Answer: Eternal September
The Internet is FULL Go away!
I assume if you are referencing Eternal September you're old like me and will not take offence at my reference.
Happy New Year!
Just out of curiosity what does eternal September mean? 😂 Is it referring to the fact that 3d printing is like "trendy" now?
@Eugenelim123 My thoughts exactly. 3d printing has finally hit that point where it pops off, and the core demographic is shifting from academic to consumer/pro-sumer.
@wyattearnest5745 In short; Eternal September is the flashpoint where the Internet started to become mainstream. If I recall correctly; the amount of usenet (something like an early online forum) registrations used to go up and down on a yearly basis, following the trend of college registrations. Then, one September, the registration count just started going up, and didn't come back down. There was an influx of new users who didn't know or want to understand the existing online culture, and began flooding everything, causing the same toxic behaviours that're being described in this video.
@@darkfoxfurre I think it's important to note that the users kept going up, it's not just that they didn't come back down, there was a huge influx of new users that was unending.
@@wyattearnest5745 Eternal September is like when you like a band that nobody else likes, because you only like bands that nobody else likes (and also you have never printed a benchy) and then other people start liking them. worst feeling ever to some people. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eternal_September
My experience with the Voron community is that it is very inclusive and friendly. The Volunteers on the team are passionate about 3d printers and tend to be very active and available in their discord server. It seems a little unfair to say that comments suggesting that you build a Voron is so negative.
because its mostly people that build stuff instead of just arguing for their fanboy-camp. there are certain Brands that are attracting those very toxic people via marketing.
Until you want to print PLA with your voron and ask the community for help. They tilt
well he's talking about the community not the team. of course they will be friendly its the community that is the problem like the other guy replying to you for example. claiming all people do is fan boy if they are not on a voron. the people of the COMMUNITY are trash
I took those comments as being people who just wanted to see his take on their favoured printer and how it compares to others. Not many of us have the money and time to build and test multiple of the more advanced and complex printers. I have a Voron and was myself curious how it matched up.
I’m in North America and I just loaded filament in my Anycubic Kobra Plus. Result: score one for the Coriolis Effect, my filament coils counterclockwise or anti clockwise. Pretty interesting! Although I would be curious to see if there may be mechanics of each machine that may affect the result. I would recommend that everyone post machine type to see if that plays a role in direction of coil of the filament.
clockwise in the northern hemisphere. great video!
I'm here for the non-planar printing; but am loving everything else except for the toxicity; can we please get rid of that
stay away from reddit 3d printer communities then, there are a couple people ive directly told to be nice and helpful or to be quiet. they did none of the suggested behaviors
Your comment about the toxic community is spot on. I made a comment in my local 3d printing group. I was replying to a post where someone had gotten a prusa XL with 5 tools, I merely pointed out your video as to just show him a possibly helpful video to use in case he runs into problems. He was quick to reply with a series of bad words and profanity, basically saying how he isnt going to be "schooled" by someone on the internet and that i was stupid for even commenting it. WAY OUT OF PROPORTION.
@TeachingTech How's your 5 tool head XL doing? I have a couple MMUs and bummed to see a lack of monitoring/network support (in addition to the reportedly poor print quality). So confusing that after years of waiting - this is their professional option for folks looking to invest in the future?
For the artifacts, change the display from layer type/feature type to speed or flow rate. You'll see a speed difference or flow difference at that point causing it. If you play with speeds you can fix it.
8:55: I would dry the filament, and change the reverseboden tube with the white cheap stuff, that has a bigger hole for the filament.
Great video as always, Thank for sharing your great and not so great prints to all of us :-)
"I would be curious to see a comparison between a Voron and a Rat Rig"
WHOA that is SO toxic!!!!!
I've had more run-ins with Bambu fanatics than Prusa fanatics...probably as a result of the places I spend time in on social media platforms, sure, but this has even happened in Creality and Sovol user groups on Facebook. Listing a reasonable collection of concerns about Bambu Lab as a company and the various fundamental design principles they abide by ends up with people coming out of the woodwork to dismiss and deny everything, even going so far as to call me a Prusa fanboy to try and obviate everything I have to say. While I find it merely annoying and I just end up blocking them, I can see how someone just trying to get into 3D printing might be turned off from the whole thing for fear that they'll be attacked for asking a simple question.
To an extent, the growing toxicity is an unfortunate side effect of a growing community - 0.1% of 1000 people is one troll, 0.1% of 10,000,000 is 10,000 people. And as we've seen at least in American political discourse, the smallest and angriest fringe groups seem larger than they are based on how loud and obnoxious they can be. Still, I'd say we're also seeing more black-and-white thinking in general, whether it's in politics, 3D printing, music, sports teams, or anything..."if you're not one of us, you're our enemy" isn't a new concept but it does seem to be magnified through the lens of easy communication afforded to us via the Internet. If the Internet didn't exist and we were all buying 3D printers out of the Woolworth's catalog, the ten most toxic Bambu fanatics and ten most toxic Prusa fanatics would all be in separate basements scattered across six different countries. Maybe they meet at a RepRap festival and discuss (or fight) over a few beers after the show is over, and maybe they even become pen pals and write letters, but that's it. With the Internet, they form a private Facebook group or Discord server and live in that echo chamber until they come out to attack other people wherever they can be found.
Anyway, it would be nice to see a revival in non-planar printing. It reminds me a bit of things like conical slicing, arc supports, and rotating print heads (and/or beds) that got a little attention last year and haven't been talked about since. I keep hoping that the next revolution in 3D printing is in improved IDEX/toolchanger printing for the budget user, but maybe I should instead be hoping for radical slicer improvements that take advantage of non-planar and/or conical slicing, or make use of rotation as well as translation for printer kinematics? Which then leads me to the idea: would the easiest implementation of rotation into FDM printing be on a delta printer, and what kind of practical speed improvements could that provide?
Bambu community loves to go in non bambu group and attack those in group. I seen it in creality groups, prusa groups, Solvo group and voron groups.
The problems is that they even attack themselves for the most non-sense reasons possible. For example on one FB group if you have any problem with Bambu printer or AMS, it must be because owner is stupid and broke something or didn't plug anything correctly or put a non-official filament in it. They do not accept a thought that a printer could have came with a defect from manufacturer or something damaged in shipping, it must be owner fault.
I think the artifacts are backlash caused by the difference in toolpaths. Adds up between the steppers, teeth, belts, and slack alternating between the last side that was push vs. pull
10:57 I have been noticing these artifacts a lot since Cura 5.0. I haven't had time to explore different slicer but my older prints with holes and features that seem to cause this didn't have this problem. Interesting that I'm seeing you comment on this on your channel.
I have no opinion on Voron, but the way you've classified them as 'pollution' and 'toxic' crosses a line for me. It seems like almost all of the comments you've highlighted to demonstrate this are just fans of your channel asking you to touch on the topic. Toxicity is intended to hurt someone else or quell discussion on topics - I'm going to be a bit harsh here, but please consider that you're the one being toxic on this topic currently. It is not toxicity just because someone else is saying something you don't want to hear, or isn't just unconditionally positive. This is normal discourse.
The problem in the community is from anti-community efforts like bambuu. The entire 3d printing ecosystem exists today instead of in the 90s because IP law screwed everything over, stopping anything from happening until patents expired and open source allowed the community to thrive and grow. Bambuu is a MAJOR community step away from open source and will eventually doom the community again.
I don't think people understand how harmful these types of changes are long term. It's like how support of Apple harms basically all computing. Look at the backwards steps we see on mobile devices compared to PCs thanks to Apple's popularity in that segment. App stores and we don't even get access to file systems by default anymore, hardware is a locked down glued down blob. And it has even been leaking to PCs with windows 11 requiring a login and spyware. If PC never happened with its open standards, we would be stuck on single core systems with no graphics cards today.
Bambu is a serious threat.
I can only agree with that. The whole 3D printing we have today, is because everything, both hardware and software, was completely accessible and open sourced. If Bambu Labs takes the next step and goes patenting open source designs, it will be the end of 3D printing as being affordable. If patents have to be payed, be prepared to pay a minimum of $1000 for a bottom basic printer...
Thank you! I thought I was going mad because I've never seen anyone else talk about what I call "Feature Aligned Artefacts". I hope prompting the discussion here will help resolve it!
I have had filament get stuck in a reverse bowden a couple of times so, although not explicitly a question, I have a suggestion for getting around this. I switched to a ptfe tube with a larger 2.5mm internal diameter and the same 4mm OD, I also went with clear ptfe so I could see any problems. Works great since a reverse bowden doesn't need to constrain the filament only guide it.
I've seen the greatest toxicity by far from "Pandas" (or Bambu Lab fanatics), who feel the need to openly brag and convert others, especially in groups for other brands. My guess is, they have to justify what they've spent on the printer.
If I had a mystery to be solved, it's whatever happened to the adoption of belt printing.
i think the toxicity is from people that dont do very much apart from being online. the less toxic people are busy doing something! :)
Regarding prusa vs bambu, the latter may become the new stratasys, in terms of patenting that which has open source prior art. The few chinese companies that do publish code or machine assemblies (like Sovol or Creality) do so very late so as not to hand r&d to the competition.
Meanwhile, the release of the A1 almost saw an 80c bed temperature limit, an artificial restriction that took an update to remove. That means locked down printers are an update away from only taking proprietary RFID spools.
Without some way to add teeth to open-source hardware enforcement, 2024 may be the year of the locked down machine. A shame, as the community work in this space set it apart from other industries.
That's a very interesting perspective, and you're probably right. We've already seen a move away from the aluminium profiles that made printers easy to add things to.
How exactly can they lock down the printers to RFID-spools-only, when the printers don't have RFID readers?
Your post is, unfortunately, a good example of the completely made up stuff (FUD), posted just to poopoo on a company you happen to not like.
You're part of the tribalism problem.
Some misinformation you have here buddy! That does no help and fuels some of the toxic behavior we're dealing with now.
@@henninghoefer The AMS has a RFID Reader. The Bambu Lab filament spools have an RFID label that is read by the AMS and the slicer automatically recognizes which filament is present.
My hypothesis is that the RFID labels are primarily used as an convenience feature so that Bambu Lab users prefer to buy the filament from Bambu Lab. As the data on the RFID labels is encrypted, no other manufacturer can also offer filament with RFID labels that work with Bambu Lab printers.
The concern that Bambu Lab could make filament with RFID labels mandatory for the use of the printer comes from the fact that other manufacturers have already tried something similar. XYZ Printing, for example, has sold printers that use filament cartridges with a DRM system. You had to buy the consumables from XYZ Printing.
Bambu has now locked out firmware downgrades, which might be seen as a step in preparation for that sort of thing, like you say mandated proprietary spools or feature lockout.
Random thought about the filament hurricane/cyclone effect. Could it be from manufacturing? Possibly a rifling effect from drilling the 0.4mm bore is affecting the extrusion depending on the direction of the drilling process or a reverse bit (left hand/right hand)? Anyway, have a great new year and keep the rubber side down on your race cars.
You're right, the community is toxic... You calling all those people toxic and they are polluting your channel because they suggested you build a Voron was pretty toxic of you. Those are your viewers and they are suggesting things they would like to see you do. If they say disrespectful things thats one thing but a lot of those were asking to build a Voron to compare. Maybe those people need guidance and a good comparison to help them decide which to build?
Oh the bambu vs prusa toxicity is so real. Personally, I lean much more towards prusa if nothing else because of my dedication to open source but I found myself becoming bitter and negative when I saw bambu videos so you know what I did? I stopped watching them! Still supported the creators I liked, just didn't watch the videos or interact with the media I knew was irritating me. Revolutionary, I know.
Definitely interested in non planar printing. It'd allow for greatly increased color control on surfaces and far less waste. Print one color once for a surface feature over varying Z surfaces, instead of having to change filament many times for each layer.
It would be a great feature, unless like so many manufacturers you are getting into the filament selling business as it appears to be more profitable than selling printers, in which case the filament waste is a feature, not a bug.
I have found these artifacts in the last question before as well. they have a fair bit to do with extrusion pressure, and also how the start point of perimiter will change depending on if there are multiple items or not. I use Slic3r, and it will try to put perimiter start points on corners as close as possible on each part. For this reason I usually select "Rear" as the start point because I can control it a lot better by the orientation of the part when slicing, and these artifacts tend do go away. It's especially important as my printer is a total piece of crap; it's a Solidoodle 2 Pro with a modofied hotend and Y axis. I wish you could see it, your forum posts have been incredibly helpful in modifying both the hardware and software. Thanks for the great content Lawsy.
Jeez, if you consider "Build a Voron" to be an example of toxicity, you'd better stay out of po9litics or religious forums!