Step by Step 24v Solar Generator DIY Build - MPP Solar , Ampere Time 100ah, Super Quick & easy !
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- čas přidán 10. 07. 2024
- Step by Step, Easy DIY Solar Generator Build, Beginner Friendly, Anyone can build this powerful system. Quick and Easy Solar Power.
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Component Links:
MPP Solar All in One - watts247.com/product/pip-2724...
Ampere Time 24v Battery - www.amperetime.com/collection...
Eco-Worthy Battery Monitor - a.co/d/7n3U9I3
Fuse and solar disconnect and backer board between the inverter and the plastic box simple fast build good job
Nice build sir, quick and simple. I would make one suggestion and it’s actually not mine, it’s Will Prowse’ suggestion. Put a fuse on the positive terminal coming off the battery. Again great build. I’m about to do the same build, I’m just waiting for the battery to arrive.
Thank you for the suggestion! I didn't think adding a fuse would be necessary due to the Ampere Time having built-in over-current protection in the BMS, however, I'm going to re-investigate that !! Thanks again !!
-Josh
@@oh2bfr337 a fuse with an on-and-off would be nice so that you can disconnect the batteries with the turn of a switch or a knob before you unplug or in case of some weird malfunction
Which size fuse would you recommend? I love the idea of this unit for a small offgrid cabin.
Nice vid. If this unit will do "inverter bypass" so you could be going grid-to-load directly, i.e. low battery condition at night, you really should have an AC input capable of the 2700 watt capability. So a 12ga. power dongle rather than a 14 gauge would be much safer. I know the cord is super short though so you may still be ok, but that cord will get pretty warm at 2700 watts for certain.
Great point Bruce! Thanks for sharing this info!
-Josh
NIce build. If you're going to have heavy loads you're going to need a lot more than two 100 watt panels. I've got 600 watts on mine as it powers part of the home.
Hi Phil, you're 110% correct ! My use case is typically running ~ 100 - 150 watt loads for 8 hours at a time so I can usually squeeze by with 2 100w panels in series (providing the sun is out ), but yes, absolutely, for larger loads I would definitely need to get some higher wattage panels. Thanks for the input !!
-Josh
@@oh2bfr337 just fyi... you can find barely used panels for a fraction of its original price. I found many businesses that closed during pandemic that sold their panels through a solar liquidation or ebay or Craigslist. I picked up four 300 watt panels for $80 each that were only 2 years old
@@philc.9280 That's awesome and a great price! Thank you for the tip and info!
Awesome. So I can have 3 200w panels hooked up to this build?
👍👍
Where did you get that sticker? Reminds me of duke nukem. Great video. Thanks for sharing
Hi Code_hack, I got it from Amazon :) . Here is the link to it:
a.co/d/0eulPKe
I love the concept of this inverter, but they really missed the mark with their solar charge controller. The input range is so narrow! It basically won't really charge unless you have about 40 volts coming in, and 60v is the upper limit. That means you have to be really careful with your series and parallel connections on your solar panels to safely bring in the (still very limited) 750 watts it allows. If this was more like a normal charge controller, where you had a something like a 30v to 120v range, the entire unit would be very beginner friendly. As it is, the limitations of the SCC make it critical to understand your VOC and make it somewhat challenging to charge up a suitably-sized 24v battery with a single day of good solar conditions.
Very good points !!
where to buy meter what size coil it fit on red cable i bought is small
60V Solar input (DC input) renders this unit as "pretty much" a hobby toy. Not for home/everyday use.
Great video but the MPP LV2424 seems better 2400 W Pure Sine wave output & 2kW Solar Input 80A. Gives you the ability to add a lot more solar input in the future thoughts?
Hi Bob! Great point! The LV2424 is another great choice for an all in one solar solution, it definitely has some nice features. I went with the LV2724 due to the pre-installed power outlets & MC4 connectors, however, both units are great for sure ! Thanks !
i got one pip2724 idel time is 1 amp
Thanks for sharing. One question: you have (2) 100W PV in series. At the 21:53 mark you mention not to exceed 60V PV input. How much V are you PV panels producing ? do you panels state the max V production?
Hi Nick, so the 100W panels produce ~ 21.5 v each at peak (so ~43v combined) and they settle down to about 15 - 17 volts each ( ~32 - 33v combined) once they start charging. Every solar panel I've seen states both the VOC & VMP voltage on the back of the unit, I would definitely stay away from panels that did not have this clearly stated. The 24v all in one inverter's built-in charge controller has a maximum PV input voltage of 60v so I'm very careful not to exceed that by over panelling because I'm running my panels in series which SUMs the voltages of all connected panels. I hope this helps !! Thanks!
@@oh2bfr337 Ok that's great info; thanks for sharing. I'm learning not to 'over panel' the Charge Controller voltage and a way to accomplish is to combine Series - Parallel configuration, if I want to increase my PV array. Also, for the folks following here, VOC = Voltage Open Circuit = the max V the PV Panel can produce with no Load (ie appliance consuming power). VMP = Voltage Maximum Power, the max amount of V produced by the PV panel. In this example, OH shared that their PV Panels produce about 21.4 V, each, or in a series array, 42.8 Volts Max. Thanks for your feedback. I'm definitely gonna buy an All-In-One Unit - might research one with higher PV input.
battery cable Gauge Size?
Cutt of voltage is 27,6
Would be great if you could use more solar input. 800 to 1000 🤔
What are those stands you are using to hold up the Solar Panels?
Hi Jon, those are just guitar stands I get from Amazon. Here is the link: a.co/d/bOmEAA8
@@oh2bfr337 Oh cool .. I would not have thought of that .. Thanks!
Follow up question from the last video. how are you configuring you panels? Series or Parallel, with a max of 60 apms for the intake??
Hi Bucket, I'm running my panels in one (2 panel) series string so only the voltage gets increased. The controller has a 60 volt input limit so I only run 2 panels at a time to make sure the voltage is enough to charge but never goes over that 60v limit. It's a bit of a balancing act for that controller but as long as you check the VOC of your panels to make sure its not above 60 volts once combined (VOC) it should work. I hope this helps and good luck on your build !!
-Josh
@@oh2bfr337 thank for the feedback on your setup. I have been getting conflicting information on this unit. the specs say its max watt solar intake is 600watts, but the review video put out by ( DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse ) he states it has a max of 750watts. what have you seen on this. if only 600watt max, then what type/size/watts, of panels did you use?
@@xBucket13x Hi Bucket, the first version of this unit was limited to 600w of PV input, however, the current version (the one I have) is 750w of input. If you get a new one it will be able to take 750w of input. For the panels, per the user manual, make sure the PV input current does not exceed 25amps and the PV input voltage is < 60v. I always run a single series string so I make sure I get the lowest voltage (VOC) panels I can find (< 20 VOC is ideal). Three 250w panels would be great as long as they do not exceed 60v VOC when combined. I hope this helps !
@@oh2bfr337 Im looking in to 2x 24v Heliene Black Mono panels. W:360.V:49.A:10. if i run them in Parallel. ill get W:720.V:49.A:20. with the 750watt unit I should be good.. Right?
Nice! That should work as the amps and voltage are within the controller's thresholds. Good luck !
Can more batteries be added to your system?
Or better with a larger battery?
Sorry I am ignorant in this field.
Yes most definitely :) . I can add any size battery as long as it's 24v. To add multiple batteries I would just need to connect each battery in parallel so that the voltages of each battery stays the same (in this case 24v). You could alternatively connect to 12v batteries in series to get 24v. You would want to make sure that the batteries you are using support this though, just to be sure. I would only do this with the same type/brand of battery too for compatibility reasons. The ampere time 24v 100ah battery that I have can support 2 batteries in series for 5.12kwh of runtime. Other brands can support more than two in series though so definitely check this option before you buy batteries if this is what you're planning to do. I hope this helps !
-Josh
Correction on my previous post: I meant to say "The ampere time 24v 100ah battery that I have can support 4 batteries in PARALLEL for 10.24kwh of runtime. Other brands can support different numbers of Parallel strings so check this option before you buy batteries if this is what you're planning to do.
My apologies for any confusion Nikki!!
What was your reason for using 2x 100W PV panels rather than 1 x 200 W? Thanks.
Hi Nikki, I used two 100w panels wired in series (the positive cable from one panel is connected to the negative of the other panel) so that the voltage of each panel is added together. This particular inverter requires a minimum of 30v to charge. Each of my 100w panels are ~ 21v VOC so added together I have enough voltage. Most commonly available solar panels (even 200w panels) are under 30v VOC so it requires the voltage from two panels (in series) to have enough. I hope this explanation helps!!
-Josh
@@oh2bfr337 Thanks. I am learning something new!!
Ths bit of information is priceless; I had no idea the difference between wiring in series vs. parallel. Bless.
What’s the name of the rubber grommet pass through things?
Hi Bob, I got those from Harbor Freight and they are called Harness Grommets. Here is the link to them: www.harborfreight.com/180-piece-harness-grommet-set-67582.html
I hope this helps !!
-Josh
Is there an option in menus to turn off AC inverter when you're not using it so you're not wasting standby voltage? Also if I'm going to run 24 to 12-volt transformer off of this thing do I attach wires directly to the battery and will the system know that voltage is being drawn?
There is an on / off button that turns off all of the power outputs (AC inverter & DC outputs) but still lets you charge the battery (via solar or AC input), however, there is no option that I'm aware of in the menu for the AC inverter only to be turned off. As for the transformer question, I've not connected a 24 to 12 volt transformer to mine so I can't answer that without risking giving you bad information, my apologies. You could probably ping MPP Solar and ask them about your specific requirements though. Good luck with everything and I hope this helps.
@@oh2bfr337 thank you for your reply what DC outputs are you referring to.? I haven't bought the unit yet so I haven't quite figured out where I would hook up my DC wiring
@@Monyornothin There are 2 USB type A ports and one USB type C port built into this unit. They are fairly low powered usb ports, however, the USB C port will not charge a laptop for example. I hope this helps you out. Good luck with everything !
@@oh2bfr337 yes so after reading the manual when the unit is in standby mode the batteries can charge I assume the DC load can also run things while the unit is off because it's attached directly to the battery side so yeah I should only need to turn this thing on when I want to use AC or USB or mess with settings etc or while I have tons of sun or plugged in to shore power
Aziz Ahmed Ansari (AAA) I am sure you have got a lot of comments for the simplicity and easy explanation, This has instigated me to contact you. I am thinking of putting a 5Kw 24v Solar generator in my basement. I live in Minnesota and thus thinking of a more efficient system, thinking of a battery bank of two 24v 250Ahr batteries, a 24 Volt Pure Sine Inverter Charger, 6000 Watt Low Frequency Inverter 110/220Vac Split Phase, 18000 Watt Surge, Battery Priority Selector, Terminal Block, GFCI. I have no clue what-so-ever about the size of the charge controller(s), solar panels/capacity and how many, fuses and other components. Can I request you to help me, let me re-phrase it, how would you do if you had to build a 5Kw, 24V system for yourself. Thanking you in anticipation.
This is 100% stupid question from me (a clueless woman): if I need a system to power appliances running on 240v main like here in UK, which elements from your system need to be different.
Thanks. God Bless.
Hi Nikki, that's actually a really great question! My system is only 120vac so achieving 240v would require a completely different inverter setup. Most of the 240v systems that I've seen are using two special 120v inverters connected together in split-phase to reach 240v.
Here is an example: watts247.com/product/2-x-spf-3000tl-lvm-24p/ , these systems are more expensive and complicated and the inverters must support split phase which is not always the case.
I have seen single standalone units that output 240v but they are somewhat rare/difficult to find in-stock, for example this one: watts247.com/product/special-pip8048max-8kw-240v-only-solar-inverter-8kw-2-x-4kw-500v-mppt-built-in-wifi-ships-now/
Here is a pre-made 120v/240v system that is getting ready to be release for purchase by a company called Zendure that might be worth checking out (its pretty expensive though and still in its kickstarter phase): www.kickstarter.com/projects/zendure/superbase-v-first-plug-and-play-home-energy-storage-system?ref=38dahp
Thankfully Solar tech is changing pretty fast these days so with any luck it will be much easier to get a simple 240v all-in-one unit that would power large appliances soon for a decent price!
I hope this helps you out !
-Josh
all you need different from this video is a model meant for the UK. Your 230/240v single phase is not the same as our (North America) 240v split phase. MPP and growatt for sure make models for your electrical standard, as well as many others.
Is putting a fuse or circuit breaker necessary?
Hi Prince, I would put a fuse on the positive terminal of the battery at a minimum. Better safe than sorry :) .
@@oh2bfr337 how many amp should the fuse be for a 24v 100ah system
Use a fuse that is 125% of the max current draw of your battery. So, for example, if your battery can output 100 amps continuous, use a 125 amp fuse. I hope this helps.
Uu
That charge controller is not really meant for Lifepo4, It should have an option to disable equalization , in case you don't know what that is, its a critical step in lead acid batteries that purposefully applies an overcharge to batteries to remove sulfate crystals that build up on lead acid plates. Lifepo4, does not need this, and will damage the cells if it activates. If it provides an option for a time it needs to be set to 0!! by you setting it to 120 minutes, you are allowing the charger to overcharge your battery for 120 minutes, every 30 days or so. You really should do more research before blindly entering in settings. the Manual is obviously meant for lead acid, in "user Setting" its only giving you the option to set your own parameters for "lead acid" and unless you know what you are doing,......
program 30 enables or disables EQ
bout $1600, I'd say.
battery cable Gauge Size?
2 gauge