Video

You need one that supports two Hall sensors at the same time so you can monitor power going in and out at the same time and on one screen.

I wonder if the negative from the hall sensor is on the battery or hooked up to the shunt p- terminal. Renogy may not be reading the power the hall sensory is consuming giving a different reading. I have my renogy 500a shunt and a 300 smart shunt hooked up one after the other and they have identical readings.

thanks for the side by side it helped me

I can't see the green screen on the top??

I remember hearing that settings fail to save with power cycling on the Eco Worthy? Did you have the same findings?

What happened to the ecoworthy battery monitor?

You have to add the base load of 20 watts before the heater is added, then the Hall sensor is more accurate

can not see the green screen , needs tilting forward at the top .... 😮

Had 2 meters like the eco worthy but not eco worthy branded. Both failed after a few months and gave nonsense readings on everything except the voltage. Going back to shunt meters.

Thankful for the video but had to dislike for not showing the alarm beeps. The unit I have doesn't sound out. Alright this really helped though I'll still like

Hello, can you confirm that the coulombmeter function does what I think it does, namely: During the life of a battery 1-10 years (whatever it is) it charges and discharges, the coulombmeter function measures what current comes out and what current comes in (subtracts and adds - averages, etc.) then results (normally after several cycles, not instantly) the capacity in Ah of the battery. Let's say we have a 100Ah battery and I cycle it 20-80%, the coulomb meter should show me after some time a capacity of 60Ah (ideal). If we reduce the losses, I think somewhere around 55-59Ah. This is true ? Does it do what I think?

Hello, can you confirm that the coulombmeter function does what I think it does, namely: During the life of a battery 1-10 years (whatever it is) it charges and discharges, the coulombmeter function measures what current comes out and what current comes in (subtracts and adds - averages, etc.) then results (normally after several cycles, not instantly) the capacity in Ah of the battery. Let's say we have a 100Ah battery and I cycle it 20-80%, the coulomb meter should show me after some time a capacity of 60Ah (ideal). If we reduce the losses, I think somewhere around 55-59Ah. This is true ? Does it do what I think?

But LOL, you compare both and you do not measure real datal with a correct Voltage and ampmeter ?

Be cool to see a multimeter along side to see which is more accurate

Both say 92% I like the demo thanks it is all good info, I bought a hall sensor I realized that's the way my AMP meter works very cool. Still learning at 66 and it's never boring :)

Is there an easy way to define the upper and lower voltage limits (= supposedly capacity) on the Renogy?

hello, what solar panels do you use for this set? give them their name please. Regards

Where did you get that sticker? Reminds me of duke nukem. Great video. Thanks for sharing

Really insightful video, great stuff!

60V Solar input (DC input) renders this unit as "pretty much" a hobby toy. Not for home/everyday use.

Great comparison. How does the standby draw compare between them?

Nice video. I'm looking at it for seasonal off grid. I'm curious about the customer support. Is Watts247 a good product and service provider for the US market?

How much does this system cost?

you should have placed the hall sensor before the shunt with respect to battery terminal. that means connecting cable from terminal to shunt to allow hall sensor to be placed there. im sure you connected shunt directly to terninal and hall sensor after thats why rreading on ecoworhty is high compared to renogy since it is also recording the watts consumed on the shunt.

I recently got one if these monitors an im trying to manually set the meter....i gwt it wants you to run the battery dead but how is that good on the battery? Ive always heard for agm style batteries for instance they recommend not to go below 50% capacity

👍👌♥️🇨🇦, gr8 stuff

Gorgeous swty 😋❤💥

Picked up a hall sensor monitor for my lithium battery/trolling motor setup on my pack canoe. It would appear that it will do the job. Thanks much!

Wow, that's the only other desk lamp I've ever seen like the one you have. It's been great on my night stand for a long time. :) I prefer the Renogy battery monitor, although they are probably very similar, aside from the Renogy using an actual shunt.

I install the meter it seems to work fine, but I don’t understand how to input my battery characteristics , I scroll through the menu I don’t know how to just settings

Is there an option in menus to turn off AC inverter when you're not using it so you're not wasting standby voltage? Also if I'm going to run 24 to 12-volt transformer off of this thing do I attach wires directly to the battery and will the system know that voltage is being drawn?

I love the concept of this inverter, but they really missed the mark with their solar charge controller. The input range is so narrow! It basically won't really charge unless you have about 40 volts coming in, and 60v is the upper limit. That means you have to be really careful with your series and parallel connections on your solar panels to safely bring in the (still very limited) 750 watts it allows. If this was more like a normal charge controller, where you had a something like a 30v to 120v range, the entire unit would be very beginner friendly. As it is, the limitations of the SCC make it critical to understand your VOC and make it somewhat challenging to charge up a suitably-sized 24v battery with a single day of good solar conditions.

Hi. Good video. But the link for the battery monitor lands to your breaker. Good day.

battery cable Gauge Size?

battery cable Gauge Size?

battery cable Gauge Size?

battery cable Gauge Size?

No two meters will show the exact same reading. If the are w/in 5% that's as good as you can expect outside high dollar lab equipment.

Thank you for sharing the video. It was helpful because I wanted to know the actual degree of measurement error with shunt resistors and Hall sensors. Junktek shunt resistor module failed after a few months, so I will try the same Hall sensor type.

I'm on the fence with this Renogy monitor. I installed mine about half a year ago and I initially really liked it. Unfortunately it started flaking out on me about a month ago. It would sporadically sound it's alarm and tell me I had 0% battery capacity in my bank when the bank was fully charged. It also wasn't recognizing when I had a charge going into the bank. I think I tracked it down to a faulty pin on the wire that connects the shunt to the monitor last night. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find a replacement wire. To be honest though, I'm not sure I even want to spend money on a replacement if this one only lasted 6 months. It's a shame because I really do like the display. Much more than ones like the Victron which only show partial information. Maybe this Eco-worthy is what I'm looking for.

I have 2 ,23AH battery’s how do I connect it

How do you hook up to 24 volt system mobility scooter

Nice.

👍👍

👍

It's a CT shunt.. The Utilities companies use them to measure watts used. They been around for years. Mostly in apartments where they have only one meter. So they install these on every main breaker feeding the Apartment.. And they are highly accurate. As the Utility Companies don't give shit away.. A normal shunt reads Amps...

Nice

I have a similar setup to yours. Mine is a 24 volt, 3000 w, All In One, branded differently, but I expect, was made by the same company, since the connections and the cabinet are so similar. If we do have similar systems, I suggest that you save the Male end of that power strip cord because you can wire it to the 120 VOLT AC INPUT terminals. That will give you the ability to charge your batteries with grid power, if you have no sun, or with a generator, if you have no sun or no grid power. Just plug it into an extension cord from the wall or a generator (could even be your neighbor's generator, if he's not looking) I actually recommend that you just go ahead and wire it up now so that it's there if you need it.

I have a different brand of Hall sensor monitor, but I like it. I can hook it up to the wiring to the fuse box located inside my camper without having to drill holes to run the wiring from the battery to the inside of the coach. Is it as accurate? Probably not, but close enough.

These are the simplest was to have portable power.. And cheaper then them all in one power generators..