I'm watching your video and I can't help but think: This guy wants to travel 80 miles and bought an electric vehicle with a 75 mile distance rating (in optimal conditions) and is left realizing he's not going to reach his destination. I'm glad you're sharing your experience because I am sure that you're not the only person who thinks this way. Simple math suggests 100x X 8 hours = 800 wHrs but that is not the case obviously. Also, anyone that is planning on using a solar generator should try to run devices off DC so they don't lose the conversion.
It makes a change to see a review on this unit where the reviewer does not appear to have been gifted it by the manufacturer. In the UK I charge mine only by solar and run small kitchen items like a 700w kettle and toaster and a 600w hotplate for moka pot. Things like that. It is best for items that aren't running for a long time, up to 10 minutes for example on a toasted sandwich maker. I tried it with a slow cooker without much success, it was on too long. Perhaps on a real sunny day using pass-through facility it may work.
I have an EB70 (not the S model) which i use during power outages. It runs my router, an old Dell 27" flat screen monitor, Dell laptop, and an IPad Pro. All these together draw 179 watts. The EB70 has lasted over 3 hours on more than one occasion. On one occasion, i turned the big monitor off after about an hour and it kept the laptop and router running an additional 6.5 hours with 20% remaining after 7.5 hours when the power finally came back on. I have been exceedingly pleased with mine, and i paid full price for it when it was initially introduced. Always be generous when looking at battery capacities verses what your electrical needs are. If you think you need 800 watts to cover 8 hours, get a power station with a battery capacity of 1000 watts or more. Some manufacturers approach 90% efficiency, but the average is only about 80%.
I'm using an EU version s model, which is 1000w max continuous load. I use it for the same purposes - running office pc and monitor. I have a desktop (low spec/efficient) and 24 inch monitor hooked up to it for work and it's hooked up to two 130w solar panels in parallel to try and keep the show on the road (I can't because there's not enough sunshine outside of summer here, but it's not far off). It averages about 55w draw on the output screen, but there's another thing you don't see on the output - parasitic drain from the inverter. If it's running on DC (the DC switch is on but not the AC) it's about 11-12 watts continuous draw, but AC uses about 22 watts continuously. Those figures are for every second you have the inverter on, not even powering devices. I've worked this out over the last 8-9 months by monitoring the solar input when it's fully charged, sunny, and I have the PC and monitor hooked up. Edit: To clarify - the output screen only shows you the wattage being fed to the sockets, not the draw the inverter pulls in order to get that power to the socket. They don't mention this in the marketing of course 🙄 All that aside, it's still a really good powerbank and I'm glad I bought it, but realistically I need one more of them if I really want to power my office reliably from the sun.
Thanks for this video. I'm not very knowledgeable on electrical but after a lengthy power outage have started researching solar generators. The idea of subtracting 25%-30% from the watt hour claims is new for me and a great idea.
Misleading manufacturer capacity claims for portable power stations is the norm! I’ve also noticed that it takes a lot more kwh to recharge them than their rated storage capacity. I have an EB70 and get exactly the same result as you. I’ve tracked this meticulously over time with a watt meter. Thanks for your honesty and expertise!
Be sure to check how much your refrigerator uses during a 12 hour period using a kilowatt meter (about $25 from Home Depot). If your refrigerator is relatively old, it could use 2000 watts or more during a 24 hour period. Samsung makes some really efficient 19+ cubic foot models that are very efficient. One CZcams review showed the EB3A (268 watt-hr) ran that refrigerator for 6 hours. I have an older model it is about 1600 watts per day. Most power stations will waste 2-4% per hour of the battery capacity when the AC is turned on, so plan accordingly
Thanks for the good honest review. I have the same unit (bought in July) and at first, it seemed to perform it's task pretty well. All I need it to do is power my laptop at about 12 watts. I did not take scientific measurements, but in the beginning, I think that I could use it for several days between charges. I typically use it for 2 hours in the morning and a couple hours in the evening, not every day, so in a week maybe 12 hours (12 X 12 = 144 watt hours) and I could do this maybe 1 1/2 weeks. So, this would be about 144 watt hours X 2 = 288. As you said, subtracting BMS and efficiency losses, I'm looking at a little over 500 watt hours. So, in my early use, I was getting less than 300 watt hours and didn't think much of it because it took about 2 weeks to get there. Lately, I need to charge this up after only about 5 hours. And, oddly it seems like I can charge it in less than 3 hours where during the summer days, 6 hours would not charge it up.(though, not really, because, it does go along with diminished capacity). I also have a Jackery Explorer 1000 and the little Explorer 160. I get better usage from the 160 - 6 hours.
Own one and can tell you it is one of the better values for the money at this time. Your next step is a 1000 on most brands and you can add another $3-400 in cost. It's all relative to what you want to spend up front. Bluetti is one of the most reliable brands and has been doing this a long time. I own the AC200MAX with an extra B230 battery and the EB70S. Love them both but they have different jobs. There is also a substantial cost and weight difference. If you can afford to spend a little extra and get the next size up, regardless of the brand, you will be glad you did.
Hi Chrono Cross, I would recommend a generator with at least 1200wh (watt hours) of capacity to run 100w for 8 hours. 1500wh would be better. Inverter efficiency, BMS reservations and thermal dynamic loses are tricky to account for so a little extra is important. For example, a generator with a 12v 100ah battery would be just adequate for 100w for 8 hours. Just keep in mind that you lose roughly 10% to the BMS (battery capacity) and ~ 15 %- 20 % for inverter loses. I hope this helps !!
Anything over 1000 watts. A 1500 watt capacity is more realistic. For example a Jackery 1500 or a Bluetti AC200 (2000 watts). These are not portable. If you need portability, get two AC70's.
Hi Jason, unfortunately, no. The EB70s always powers loads from the internal battery/inverter even when the power brick is plugged in. I hope this helps! -Josh
Stay far away from Bluetti. Their customer service is terrible and they don't honor the warranty. I've already had the full experience... buy something else. anything else!!
I'm watching your video and I can't help but think: This guy wants to travel 80 miles and bought an electric vehicle with a 75 mile distance rating (in optimal conditions) and is left realizing he's not going to reach his destination. I'm glad you're sharing your experience because I am sure that you're not the only person who thinks this way. Simple math suggests 100x X 8 hours = 800 wHrs but that is not the case obviously. Also, anyone that is planning on using a solar generator should try to run devices off DC so they don't lose the conversion.
Hi Joey, great advice !! Thanks.
My laptops all run off the PD outlets, there is 2x 100W available simultaneously.
It makes a change to see a review on this unit where the reviewer does not appear to have been gifted it by the manufacturer. In the UK I charge mine only by solar and run small kitchen items like a 700w kettle and toaster and a 600w hotplate for moka pot. Things like that. It is best for items that aren't running for a long time, up to 10 minutes for example on a toasted sandwich maker. I tried it with a slow cooker without much success, it was on too long. Perhaps on a real sunny day using pass-through facility it may work.
I have an EB70 (not the S model) which i use during power outages. It runs my router, an old Dell 27" flat screen monitor, Dell laptop, and an IPad Pro. All these together draw 179 watts. The EB70 has lasted over 3 hours on more than one occasion. On one occasion, i turned the big monitor off after about an hour and it kept the laptop and router running an additional 6.5 hours with 20% remaining after 7.5 hours when the power finally came back on. I have been exceedingly pleased with mine, and i paid full price for it when it was initially introduced. Always be generous when looking at battery capacities verses what your electrical needs are. If you think you need 800 watts to cover 8 hours, get a power station with a battery capacity of 1000 watts or more. Some manufacturers approach 90% efficiency, but the average is only about 80%.
I'm using an EU version s model, which is 1000w max continuous load. I use it for the same purposes - running office pc and monitor. I have a desktop (low spec/efficient) and 24 inch monitor hooked up to it for work and it's hooked up to two 130w solar panels in parallel to try and keep the show on the road (I can't because there's not enough sunshine outside of summer here, but it's not far off).
It averages about 55w draw on the output screen, but there's another thing you don't see on the output - parasitic drain from the inverter.
If it's running on DC (the DC switch is on but not the AC) it's about 11-12 watts continuous draw, but AC uses about 22 watts continuously. Those figures are for every second you have the inverter on, not even powering devices. I've worked this out over the last 8-9 months by monitoring the solar input when it's fully charged, sunny, and I have the PC and monitor hooked up.
Edit: To clarify - the output screen only shows you the wattage being fed to the sockets, not the draw the inverter pulls in order to get that power to the socket. They don't mention this in the marketing of course 🙄
All that aside, it's still a really good powerbank and I'm glad I bought it, but realistically I need one more of them if I really want to power my office reliably from the sun.
Thanks for this video. I'm not very knowledgeable on electrical but after a lengthy power outage have started researching solar generators. The idea of subtracting 25%-30% from the watt hour claims is new for me and a great idea.
Misleading manufacturer capacity claims for portable power stations is the norm! I’ve also noticed that it takes a lot more kwh to recharge them than their rated storage capacity. I have an EB70 and get exactly the same result as you. I’ve tracked this meticulously over time with a watt meter. Thanks for your honesty and expertise!
Great review.
I was hoping it would have a better capacity as I need to buy one to run my 120V home refrigerator for at least 12 hours.
Thanks a lot!
Hi Billance, I'm glad this helped you!
Be sure to check how much your refrigerator uses during a 12 hour period using a kilowatt meter (about $25 from Home Depot). If your refrigerator is relatively old, it could use 2000 watts or more during a 24 hour period. Samsung makes some really efficient 19+ cubic foot models that are very efficient. One CZcams review showed the EB3A (268 watt-hr) ran that refrigerator for 6 hours. I have an older model it is about 1600 watts per day. Most power stations will waste 2-4% per hour of the battery capacity when the AC is turned on, so plan accordingly
Thanks for the good honest review. I have the same unit (bought in July) and at first, it seemed to perform it's task pretty well. All I need it to do is power my laptop at about 12 watts. I did not take scientific measurements, but in the beginning, I think that I could use it for several days between charges. I typically use it for 2 hours in the morning and a couple hours in the evening, not every day, so in a week maybe 12 hours (12 X 12 = 144 watt hours) and I could do this maybe 1 1/2 weeks. So, this would be about 144 watt hours X 2 = 288. As you said, subtracting BMS and efficiency losses, I'm looking at a little over 500 watt hours. So, in my early use, I was getting less than 300 watt hours and didn't think much of it because it took about 2 weeks to get there.
Lately, I need to charge this up after only about 5 hours. And, oddly it seems like I can charge it in less than 3 hours where during the summer days, 6 hours would not charge it up.(though, not really, because, it does go along with diminished capacity). I also have a Jackery Explorer 1000 and the little Explorer 160. I get better usage from the 160 - 6 hours.
Not very efficient your setup as modern computers you would run off the two 100W PD outlets and get much longer use.
interesting. its on sale for $449 and was about to pull the trigger, though most reviews say this is a good one, but im thinking twice now.
Own one and can tell you it is one of the better values for the money at this time. Your next step is a 1000 on most brands and you can add another $3-400 in cost. It's all relative to what you want to spend up front. Bluetti is one of the most reliable brands and has been doing this a long time. I own the AC200MAX with an extra B230 battery and the EB70S. Love them both but they have different jobs. There is also a substantial cost and weight difference. If you can afford to spend a little extra and get the next size up, regardless of the brand, you will be glad you did.
I bought one today. 800w for $449 with a LifePo4 battery? Yes, thank you!
What would you recommend for 8 hours usage for 100w load
Hi Chrono Cross, I would recommend a generator with at least 1200wh (watt hours) of capacity to run 100w for 8 hours. 1500wh would be better. Inverter efficiency, BMS reservations and thermal dynamic loses are tricky to account for so a little extra is important. For example, a generator with a 12v 100ah battery would be just adequate for 100w for 8 hours. Just keep in mind that you lose roughly 10% to the BMS (battery capacity) and ~ 15 %- 20 % for inverter loses. I hope this helps !!
@@oh2bfr337 thank you! Yes that helps
Anything over 1000 watts. A 1500 watt capacity is more realistic. For example a Jackery 1500 or a Bluetti AC200 (2000 watts). These are not portable. If you need portability, get two AC70's.
Does the EB70s have the UPS feature like the smaller EB3A?
Hi Jason, unfortunately, no. The EB70s always powers loads from the internal battery/inverter even when the power brick is plugged in. I hope this helps!
-Josh
can i use it and charge it at the same time?
Hi Skyrus, yes you can do this no problem.
Stay far away from Bluetti. Their customer service is terrible and they don't honor the warranty. I've already had the full experience... buy something else. anything else!!