I'm currently installing this type of solution (thank you, youtuber, for the idea.) One important tip for others trying this out: you might use this method to tap into an older floor drain. My basement had an existing but now blocked and failed clay tile drain under the floor. I was drilling the holes to secure the brick mold and I noticed red dust coming up as I drilled each hole. Also the drill bit broke through the concrete at the end of drilling like it hit a void. I got curious and drilled a 1/2" hole to explore. I was able to probe about 7" down to the real bottom of the void. I surmised this was the original floor drain. So I bought some green tracing dye (used to trace streams, septic leaks, etc) and I poured some in the hole and then flushed it with a garden hose. We had the dyed water appear in a newer waterproofed part of the basement in a sump pump. Basically, I can re-use the old blocked drain which connects to a newer drain system. So essentially I'm 'repairing' the old floor drain with this approach.
I’m glad to have found your video, I had the exact same thought for making my own waterproof channeling baseboard and wanted to find someone else who attempted it. I think this is definitely the route I’m taking rather than buying one of the kits like you talked about. Awesome work👍🏻
I had a similar idea in my head for a while and knew something like this had to work rather than spending $8,000 on a French drain. There is always a way to do something!! Thanks for posting from PA!
The best long-term solution is cutting out the floor and installing a drain tile system with a sump and a pump. However, if you're not planning on finishing the basement and are strictly looking for water mitigation on a budget this is absolutely a viable option. This seems to be a pretty well planned solution. It's the same concept as the plastic systems sold online but extreamy sturdy compared to the plastic systems. What I like about this design is the fact you can get in there with a hose and rinse the whole thing out if it ever gets clogged up. Good job dude!!!👍
Well done! An ingenious method of dewatering your basement. This was much more practical than running a jackhammer all the way around to create a concrete trench for thousands of dollars.
Randall thank you for this awesome idea. I couldn't thank you enough for this. I did this exact same thing in our own basement. It looks great, and works exactly like yours did.
Great idea with the brick molding, going to do this to gutter to my sump pit instead of it running across the floor. It's an old stone foundation and it leaks through the gaps between the rocks.
Great way to save money. Just remember it's not great to let water constantly come through your wall like that, plus you can probably get mold growing in that channel. But if your on a budget, this gets you more bang for your buck than about anything you do.
Very ingenious and simple solution....no matter what solution people use, there is still water issues if a sump pump is running constantly and so many horror stories of sump pump failure during power outage or just failure, why hasn't some of the pro's figured this out? great video!
Great video! I think I will look into this. BTW, hold your cell phone sideways, not up and down like you did for this video. You will fill the screen, and not have 1/3rd on the right and 1/3rd on the left of of nothing, with a little bit of video in the center of the screen. Your cell phone is made to support a 16:9 aspect ratio, just like your TV and CZcams videos. Thank you again for the great idea. I think I need to try this. All the best, jack
Actually a similar concept to the commercial Beaver system but of course much less expensive. I only get water in my basement when we have hurricanes or long noreasters which I believe temporarily raises the water table. These would channel the water to my sump but I don't think I want to lose the floor space for such an unusual event. I know from experience that grading around the house and keeping rain gutters clean should always be the first step in fixing basement water issues. Ground should slope away from house at least 6 inches in first 10ft.
do you have any tips for a city boy with 0 experience in this stuff? thinking about digging round the house with a rented *whatevertoolhere* and tarring the outside wall, then maybe fixing the roof drain system before that, and then after all that doing something like this if needed. we already have a subpump installed.
If your basement isnt going to be finished and the water is coming from the walls and not a crack in the floor and you already have a sump then you could use this method and channel the water into the sump hole. I wouldnt waste my time tarring the outside wall... diverting roof water away from foundation will help but wont prevent it completely.
I believe I used the 3/16" x 2". I countersunk the brick mould with a drill size that would allow the head of tapcon heads to slide thru slightly and went deep enough so the screws extend out bottom 3/4" to an inch. Use a hammer drill on the concrete and drill 1 1/4" deep or so.. You dont want the tapcon to bottom out in hole. Also blow the holes out with air compressor. The tapcons are just conforming the brick mould to the irregularity of the floor until the silicone dries. I just tightened them skipping back and forth until I saw the silicone squeezing out slightly. Dont overtighten them. Good luck!! Best $300 I ever spent..
hello, thank you for posting this video of your idea. i have a question.....would you suggest drilling weep holes on the bottom wall blocks? would you suggest drilling weep holes on the floor space inside your channel area? if yes....how often along the path of both? thank you, blessings from a fellow york county, pa home owner.
I actually did add some weep holes in the blocks on my system about every 3 blocks....however no water comes out them. Still a good idea. I wouldnt drill the concrete though..pointless..good luck!!
Good idea! Do you think the drilling in concrete and bolting the molding down would have been necessary? Also did you have any cracks in the floor that water was pushing up from?
I believe you could just use the silicone if you took your time and put weights on each piece one at a time. If you have cracks in your floor that water comes thru this method won't work...Randy
Thanks for posting this! I have a similar water seepage problem in my basement and am going to give your system a try. How did you prep the floor contact area for the moulding, and did you use rigid or coiled PVC pipe?
Another viewer in the comments asked about using just silicone...As I told him I would imagine you could do it but you would have to weight each piece down individually to get good floor contact. If you try it cone back and post your results for others to see.
So, you have water in a trough whose base is a concrete floor. Hmm, some of this water will escape via your end cap - very nifty - but some of it will soak into the floor and thus migrate under the channel (into zones of drier concrete) and eventually evaporate into the cellar's air volume. I'm intrigued to know how damp your floor still gets, because there appear to be blooms emanating from the edge of the trough. Is the space habitable?
I have no clue what a bloom is...however in response to your question of how habitable it is I use the area frequently for a shop. There is no leakage under the trough. Poured concrete floors in general may be porous however are generally not very permeable. Concrete blocks on the other hand obviously are very permeable. It's been years since I did the job and still holding up. I do run a dehumidifier in the summer and pull out a gallon about every 3 days. For a few hundred bucks it has been the best investment I have ever made.
Great video. Quick question do i have the correct materials here: lowes royal building product 2in x 8ft pvc brick moulding,GE clear silicone, 2-3/4in x 1/4in Tapcon screws and a tapcon 4-1/2in carbide masonry drill bit. I do not have an impact drill jus a regular drill..wi this work?
I believe I used 3/16" tapcons x 2" and I countersunk the holes in the brick mouldings about 1" in so that I had about 1" screw into the concrete. The 1/4" will require more pressure to drill and will require more effort particularly without an impact drill. I would suggest purchasing one from harbor freight tools or renting one. Drilling in concrete without one is difficult. The 1/4" tapcons will work and the longer length just means you wont have to countersink the mouldings as deep.
@@iflex1963 yes..how funny..i just got off the harbor freight site looking for one So let me ask you this..did u drill a pilot hole from the top of the brick moulding right down through the concrete or did u drill hole in concrete then line up moulding them drill pilot holes in moulding? Sorry for all the specific questions.
@@tamikakirksey3286 The best way is to set the mouldings on saw horses...then measure and mark the spot with a pencil. Center punch the mark then drill a hole thru the moulding with a regular drill the same size as the concrete drill. Then make 2 spacers about 2" in width that you can use between the concrete block wall and where the moulding will be placed. Then put concrete drill thru the hole in moulding near end. Drill concrete about a 1/2" deeper than you need so the tapcons dont bottom out and break. Blow out dust with air compressor.
My daughter lives in Pittsburgh. It might work if the brick casing sits well on the floor..Its certainly not ideal. You could possibly sit some weights on it until the silicone cures..
Very good. But I'd think if it's wet for prolonged periods that you might get a mildew problem. Have you considered washing it out with a dilute chlorine solution to kill mildew?
@@robb930 we have the above system in place currently and ended up opening some weep holes to help with pressure. I placed this system on 2 of the 4 walls in our basement. I will keep an eye on it but we also run 2 dehumidifiers 24/7 in our basement and seem to be having some success.
Another idea would be to add a few weep holes to allow the water to drain into your drain tile and use cotton rope to use as the drain sender. I would suggest you address the walls with repointing and coat with a dry lock paint as it may slow the entry. On the outside fix gutters to drain way away and slope soil to move away the water from the fountain. If you have radon then weep holes need to be address as a point of entry. Thanks for your post. They sell kits with like this but your homemade idea is a good one.
I added weep holes a few weeks later...which incidentally never weep...and as far as the spouting it was routed away from the area long prior to this fix..
Use synthetic wick as cotton rope will rot and mold. Nylon roping will work to carry the water to a sump if you put the end of the rope in the bottom of the sump. Pour some vinegar in the trough periodically to discourage mold and mildew.
I’m sure this is fine if you never plan on selling. But unless the water is permanently stoped, that’s gonna be a great negotiation tactic for a buyer...
I am glad that this system is working, however...you still have a leaky basement. When you try to sell this house, it will not pass inspection for a FHA loan, and maybe others as well, because of this very issue...LEAKY BASEMENT! Beware! (Been there, done that, and got a T-shirt to prove it)
I know this is going on 7 years old now - but I just wanted to mention that a basement constructed of cinder blocklike this that has water intrusion means that the inside cavity of those blocks are surely filled with water. A weeping hole at the bottom of each run would eliminate that interior water and ensure that your blocks dont start deteriorating. Would be interested to see an update on how your system and walls have held up. Thank you! Ohm BTW, there are two different types of brick molding. Wood and PVC. Obviously you want the PVC - but last I checked they are pretty darn expensive these days.
Hi, If you read all the comments and replies by me you will find where I did add weep holes that don't weep whatsoever. Regardless they are in there doing nothing in my application....the totalsystem works as good as the day I installed it. As far as pvc brick moulding prices...all I can say in a whisper is "Bidenomics" it's working...
@@iflex1963 LOL! Wait wait wait - the Biden administration said that they "put in the work" and "THAT is what important". Thanks for the quick reply. Glad to hear this was the solution and saved you... well - what would be about $60k in Biden dollars today. Maybe I got my math wrong. Who knows. We know he doesn't.
I know you it works for you and many other people but I will tell you that you are allowing water to sit in your block walls and it can really wreck havoc on the stability of your basement walls if those blocks stay wet for a good amount thru the years they can and will start to deteriorate, I'm not knocking what you did I'm just informing you from someone that has 20 years in the waterproofing basements that can cost you more in the long run with block walls holding water
Actually I did not change the dynamics of how long water "sits" in the wall because I didn't trap it in the walls. Painting the walls with a sealer would do much more of keeping the moisture in the wall. Also unlike a closed channel system mine allows air to evaporate the moisture much quicker. The channel I created is only wet during and after a rain a few days. It doesnt stay wet. I did add some weep holes to allow quicker draining which is not mentioned in the video. The only real way to prevent water from contacting blocks would be to attack it from the outside which in many cases is next to impossible to prevent. As far as water decaying blocks that is a very long process. Water eats away at everything given enough time. River rock are rounded by flowing water. Concrete blocks are specifically used underground because of there resistance to water. I appreciated your comment however you didnt give any advice for an improvement.
Not a contractor, but agree with the above guy. Terrible idea. Standing water breeds insects, especially mosquitos and mold for 2 things. At least pour a water and bleach solution down your trough every so often to kill the mold.
@@iflex1963 But it is deceiving ,most people don't understand how moisture affects basements .just because you saved money does not make it a correct job.
I have a company coming to waterpoof my new house. The groundwater is so high around lake Michigan right now that its seeping thru even the inside walls.
@@iflex1963 I have the money in savings and I just finished part of my basement. Plus since my wife and I want to raise or kids here, seems like a good investment.
@@andymccloskey8039 Probably so...I would negotiate the price..Make an offer of 13 grand.. Tell the lowest guy you have a lower offer but his time table is further out... They have wiggle room.. Good luck!
@@greghillmusic he drilled pressure relief holes every 30” in the wall, no pressure behind that wall. There are commercially available versions of this waterproofing method for about 3x the price. Still about 10x-30x cheaper than digging drains on the outside of the wall.
Actually I built a channel not a dam. Every hard rain that we got I would have to vacuum about 20 gallon off the floor. Imagine slowing pouring that amount of water (20 gallon) into that channel that I built. If the floor of the channel were perfectly level the water as it fills the channel and gets some depth will run to a lower spot which in this case is the drain at the other end of the basement. All I did was create a "conduit" to control the path in which it takes thereby creating dry space everywhere else.
I'm going to be doing this excact thing myself today. Seems pretty easy and looks like it will work well. I do not want to dig up the basement so this is perfect. And my basement only leaks from one spot mainly.
works fine for me, some videos don't play right at certain resolutions for reasons I don't know *only experienced it on one video, I think it was an AutoHotKey tutorial vid* . working fine for me at 720p though.
Lol yeah me too. I’ve been painting my walls with dry lock. But I don’t know if it’s going to work yet. Haven’t had any heavy rain yet. There’s only one wall where water comes in but unfortunately it spans the entire side of my house
This is terrible for the long term health of the perimeter wall foundation over time, you're going to need dehumidifiers ebeywhere to keep that valley dry
Actually I have one dehumidifier running in the room... near 1000 square feet... and after a heavy rain it's dry as a popcorn fart within 2 to 3 days. Works like a charm for me.
It's funny seeing this and saw this guy business basically does this, but it looks cosmetically good. link is right here(czcams.com/video/N1vu0f6qgOA/video.html) just thought it was neat and probably little bit more and simple to use. my drain is in the middle of my basement, so this part would be a sore eye.
His system will work however it looks pretty fragile....easy to crack if you put anything near the wall...plus no way to clean it out every couple years.. I can very easily as its open.
I knew someone who had this vinyl cove molding baseboard stuff installed and it failed with leakage. These baseboard systems are over marketed as a DIY business opportunity and apparently my friend hired some schlub who was trying to do this work. I trust the vinyl brick molding a lot more. The baseboards are secured only with epoxy adhesive, running up the expenses. Also the brick mold per linear foot is MUCH cheaper.
This is not how you do this. A trench 10 inches beyond the footer and 10 inches deep, 4 inch perforated pipe. with weep holes in ever cell of every block including the mortor joint. This wall will buckle.
You have not relieved hydrostatic pressure. You have not destroyed the mold friendly environment. You will have to spend that money or DIY a basement pressure relief system eventually.
@@greghillmusic Well I knew you were either a leading foremost authority on basement waterproofing or someone who was convinced by a self proclaimed expert that the house would fall down if they don't depart with a pile of money immediately. Had to be one or the other. First... I don't have a mold problem.... Mold thrives in areas that remain damp...mine dries up a day or two after a large rain...and I drilled holes in all the block chambers....which no water comes out of....(was a waste of a good masonry drill) which means no hydrostatic pressure.
@@iflex1963 yes I did a lot of research research have a good idea of how water works around basements and what works as a solution. You're ignorant of the fact that you WILL have mold and water damage come up through your floor eventually because water is under and all around your walls, brother. I applaud the temporary fix. Just warning you that it is a TEMPORARY FIX
@@greghillmusic You must be like 14 years old if you haven't learned that everything is temporary...including your and my life... This particular apartment building is near 50 years old... still standing.. and the basement is dryer than it's ever been...
I'm currently installing this type of solution (thank you, youtuber, for the idea.) One important tip for others trying this out: you might use this method to tap into an older floor drain. My basement had an existing but now blocked and failed clay tile drain under the floor. I was drilling the holes to secure the brick mold and I noticed red dust coming up as I drilled each hole. Also the drill bit broke through the concrete at the end of drilling like it hit a void. I got curious and drilled a 1/2" hole to explore. I was able to probe about 7" down to the real bottom of the void. I surmised this was the original floor drain. So I bought some green tracing dye (used to trace streams, septic leaks, etc) and I poured some in the hole and then flushed it with a garden hose. We had the dyed water appear in a newer waterproofed part of the basement in a sump pump. Basically, I can re-use the old blocked drain which connects to a newer drain system. So essentially I'm 'repairing' the old floor drain with this approach.
I’m glad to have found your video, I had the exact same thought for making my own waterproof channeling baseboard and wanted to find someone else who attempted it. I think this is definitely the route I’m taking rather than buying one of the kits like you talked about. Awesome work👍🏻
I'm going to be doing the same to my basement. Seems to work pretty good and way cheaper than the kit! Let me know how it worked out!
I had a similar idea in my head for a while and knew something like this had to work rather than spending $8,000 on a French drain. There is always a way to do something!! Thanks for posting from PA!
Yw...and good luck!!
The best long-term solution is cutting out the floor and installing a drain tile system with a sump and a pump. However, if you're not planning on finishing the basement and are strictly looking for water mitigation on a budget this is absolutely a viable option. This seems to be a pretty well planned solution. It's the same concept as the plastic systems sold online but extreamy sturdy compared to the plastic systems. What I like about this design is the fact you can get in there with a hose and rinse the whole thing out if it ever gets clogged up. Good job dude!!!👍
Well done! An ingenious method of dewatering your basement. This was much more practical than running a jackhammer all the way around to create a concrete trench for thousands of dollars.
Omg thank you keep posting good cheap ways you helped me out of everyone’s videos. I thanks you mr. have a good holiday.
Good work. Also you can use door and window seal and. A little more $$$ but pretty bomb proof and thicker base.
Randall thank you for this awesome idea. I couldn't thank you enough for this. I did this exact same thing in our own basement. It looks great, and works exactly like yours did.
John...I'm glad it helped save you some money and it sure beats water all over the floor!
@@iflex1963 it sure does.
It rained like crazy this last weekend and it directed all the water to the drain in floor via the same pipe you used.
My husband and I were looking for budget friendly ways to keep water off our basement floor. What a clever idea.
This has definitely saved me some money! Genius! Thank you!!
Glad it helped your situation!
I will use the same thing here, great video and good idea!!
Great idea with the brick molding, going to do this to gutter to my sump pit instead of it running across the floor. It's an old stone foundation and it leaks through the gaps between the rocks.
Great way to save money. Just remember it's not great to let water constantly come through your wall like that, plus you can probably get mold growing in that channel. But if your on a budget, this gets you more bang for your buck than about anything you do.
Very ingenious and simple solution....no matter what solution people use, there is still water issues if a sump pump is running constantly and so many horror stories of sump pump failure during power outage or just failure, why hasn't some of the pro's figured this out? great video!
FWIW, battery backed-up sump pumps are available. Not necessarily cheap, though.
Thank you for sharing that!! I think that might work great for my basement.😊😊
Fantastic idea! Thank you!
Yw...I hope it works for you..
Great video! I think I will look into this. BTW, hold your cell phone sideways, not up and down like you did for this video. You will fill the screen, and not have 1/3rd on the right and 1/3rd on the left of of nothing, with a little bit of video in the center of the screen. Your cell phone is made to support a 16:9 aspect ratio, just like your TV and CZcams videos. Thank you again for the great idea. I think I need to try this. All the best, jack
Lmao.. When you watch the video don't turn your phone sideways...then hit the expand icon...it will fill the screen completely..
I cannot wait to try this. Thank you so much for posting an inexpensive solution
You're very welcome...hope it works for you as well as it does for me! Come back and give us an update after it's been tested in a heavy rain..
Very clever, and simple 👍
Great idea ! Will do this !
Actually a similar concept to the commercial Beaver system but of course much less expensive. I only get water in my basement when we have hurricanes or long noreasters which I believe temporarily raises the water table. These would channel the water to my sump but I don't think I want to lose the floor space for such an unusual event. I know from experience that grading around the house and keeping rain gutters clean should always be the first step in fixing basement water issues. Ground should slope away from house at least 6 inches in first 10ft.
great video. thanks for the info.
do you have any tips for a city boy with 0 experience in this stuff? thinking about digging round the house with a rented *whatevertoolhere* and tarring the outside wall, then maybe fixing the roof drain system before that, and then after all that doing something like this if needed. we already have a subpump installed.
If your basement isnt going to be finished and the water is coming from the walls and not a crack in the floor and you already have a sump then you could use this method and channel the water into the sump hole. I wouldnt waste my time tarring the outside wall... diverting roof water away from foundation will help but wont prevent it completely.
GREAT IDEA!!
Awesome..... Would you know the size of the tapcons you used and how deep you had to drill into the concrete ? Thanks for sharing.
I believe I used the 3/16" x 2". I countersunk the brick mould with a drill size that would allow the head of tapcon heads to slide thru slightly and went deep enough so the screws extend out bottom 3/4" to an inch. Use a hammer drill on the concrete and drill 1 1/4" deep or so.. You dont want the tapcon to bottom out in hole. Also blow the holes out with air compressor. The tapcons are just conforming the brick mould to the irregularity of the floor until the silicone dries. I just tightened them skipping back and forth until I saw the silicone squeezing out slightly. Dont overtighten them. Good luck!! Best $300 I ever spent..
@@iflex1963 Thanks much
IDK, over time that water is going to erode the cinder blocks and then what happens?
hello, thank you for posting this video of your idea. i have a question.....would you suggest drilling weep holes on the bottom wall blocks? would you suggest drilling weep holes on the floor space inside your channel area? if yes....how often along the path of both? thank you, blessings from a fellow york county, pa home owner.
I actually did add some weep holes in the blocks on my system about every 3 blocks....however no water comes out them. Still a good idea. I wouldnt drill the concrete though..pointless..good luck!!
How is this holding up? Looks awesome!
I been looking for this thanks 😊
Yw!
I have the same problem and had the same idea. I did not know about the PVC brick molding. Where do you buy it?
You get it at Lowes...Home Depot..
Good idea! Do you think the drilling in concrete and bolting the molding down would have been necessary? Also did you have any cracks in the floor that water was pushing up from?
I believe you could just use the silicone if you took your time and put weights on each piece one at a time. If you have cracks in your floor that water comes thru this method won't work...Randy
Thanks for posting this! I have a similar water seepage problem in my basement and am going to give your system a try. How did you prep the floor contact area for the moulding, and did you use rigid or coiled PVC pipe?
I powerwashed about a 6 " path for the moulding....and used ridgid pvc pipe... Randy
looks workable can I use super strong construction adhesive like gorilla rather then tap cons
Another viewer in the comments asked about using just silicone...As I told him I would imagine you could do it but you would have to weight each piece down individually to get good floor contact. If you try it cone back and post your results for others to see.
Very smart I may do this
So, you have water in a trough whose base is a concrete floor. Hmm, some of this water will escape via your end cap - very nifty - but some of it will soak into the floor and thus migrate under the channel (into zones of drier concrete) and eventually evaporate into the cellar's air volume. I'm intrigued to know how damp your floor still gets, because there appear to be blooms emanating from the edge of the trough. Is the space habitable?
I have no clue what a bloom is...however in response to your question of how habitable it is I use the area frequently for a shop. There is no leakage under the trough. Poured concrete floors in general may be porous however are generally not very permeable. Concrete blocks on the other hand obviously are very permeable. It's been years since I did the job and still holding up. I do run a dehumidifier in the summer and pull out a gallon about every 3 days. For a few hundred bucks it has been the best investment I have ever made.
Great video. Quick question do i have the correct materials here: lowes royal building product 2in x 8ft pvc brick moulding,GE clear silicone, 2-3/4in x 1/4in Tapcon screws and a tapcon 4-1/2in carbide masonry drill bit. I do not have an impact drill jus a regular drill..wi this work?
I believe I used 3/16" tapcons x 2" and I countersunk the holes in the brick mouldings about 1" in so that I had about 1" screw into the concrete. The 1/4" will require more pressure to drill and will require more effort particularly without an impact drill. I would suggest purchasing one from harbor freight tools or renting one. Drilling in concrete without one is difficult. The 1/4" tapcons will work and the longer length just means you wont have to countersink the mouldings as deep.
I also used the 17' long mouldings so I had less seams.. the 8' will work though.
I looked at harbor freight and the have several hammer drills under $40
@@iflex1963 yes..how funny..i just got off the harbor freight site looking for one
So let me ask you this..did u drill a pilot hole from the top of the brick moulding right down through the concrete or did u drill hole in concrete then line up moulding them drill pilot holes in moulding? Sorry for all the specific questions.
@@tamikakirksey3286 The best way is to set the mouldings on saw horses...then measure and mark the spot with a pencil. Center punch the mark then drill a hole thru the moulding with a regular drill the same size as the concrete drill. Then make 2 spacers about 2" in width that you can use between the concrete block wall and where the moulding will be placed. Then put concrete drill thru the hole in moulding near end. Drill concrete about a 1/2" deeper than you need so the tapcons dont bottom out and break. Blow out dust with air compressor.
From Pittsburgh here, would it be possible to skip the tap cons and just use the silicond and an epoxy?
My daughter lives in Pittsburgh. It might work if the brick casing sits well on the floor..Its certainly not ideal. You could possibly sit some weights on it until the silicone cures..
I was thinking the same thing.
Well you definitely have a pa accent! Couple years later now I was wondering how is it holding up?
South central Pa....good ear....lol... Still holding up perfectly... best time and money I ever spent... Randy
@@iflex1963 1000 likes 👍
Very good. But I'd think if it's wet for prolonged periods that you might get a mildew problem. Have you considered washing it out with a dilute chlorine solution to kill mildew?
It's an open system so you could very easily...but I haven't had to.
Did you coat the channel with something? Because it looks black like you painted it with a sealant of some sort?
No...it was a dark brown from 60 years of water and sediment against it.
What kind of silicone did you use? I have two sump pumps in my basement already and am thinking about employing your system.
I used clear 100% silicone. Still holding...no problems!
If you have a block wall find out if it monolithic or you can ruin your foundation
@@robb930 we have the above system in place currently and ended up opening some weep holes to help with pressure. I placed this system on 2 of the 4 walls in our basement. I will keep an eye on it but we also run 2 dehumidifiers 24/7 in our basement and seem to be having some success.
Thank you for let us know that it took you 10 man hrs, it really help me to inform the aliens that might take them more or less time.
If they are illegal 👽 they are faster than me... If you are referring to aliens from Mars I am uncertain of their speed and work ethics...
Another idea would be to add a few weep holes to allow the water to drain into your drain tile and use cotton rope to use as the drain sender. I would suggest you address the walls with repointing and coat with a dry lock paint as it may slow the entry. On the outside fix gutters to drain way away and slope soil to move away the water from the fountain. If you have radon then weep holes need to be address as a point of entry. Thanks for your post. They sell kits with like this but your homemade idea is a good one.
I added weep holes a few weeks later...which incidentally never weep...and as far as the spouting it was routed away from the area long prior to this fix..
Use synthetic wick as cotton rope will rot and mold. Nylon roping will work to carry the water to a sump if you put the end of the rope in the bottom of the sump. Pour some vinegar in the trough periodically to discourage mold and mildew.
Dude!!! I’ve been looking for something like this. Do you have a link for the mounding you used ?!?!
Just go to any home improvement store and ask for pvc brick moulding...comes in different lengths...
I’m sure this is fine if you never plan on selling. But unless the water is permanently stoped, that’s gonna be a great negotiation tactic for a buyer...
what are the products you used trying to avoid 7k and not selling
It's been a while...but along with the PVC Brick moulding I outlined the tapcons I used in some of the older comments...good luck!
I am glad that this system is working, however...you still have a leaky basement. When you try to sell this house, it will not pass inspection for a FHA loan, and maybe others as well, because of this very issue...LEAKY BASEMENT! Beware! (Been there, done that, and got a T-shirt to prove it)
Speaking of FHA Loans and all, can I go after a Organization for selling me a home with a Leaky basement. I only been here less than two years?
Willis following
I know this is going on 7 years old now - but I just wanted to mention that a basement constructed of cinder blocklike this that has water intrusion means that the inside cavity of those blocks are surely filled with water. A weeping hole at the bottom of each run would eliminate that interior water and ensure that your blocks dont start deteriorating. Would be interested to see an update on how your system and walls have held up. Thank you!
Ohm BTW, there are two different types of brick molding. Wood and PVC. Obviously you want the PVC - but last I checked they are pretty darn expensive these days.
Hi, If you read all the comments and replies by me you will find where I did add weep holes that don't weep whatsoever. Regardless they are in there doing nothing in my application....the totalsystem works as good as the day I installed it. As far as pvc brick moulding prices...all I can say in a whisper is "Bidenomics" it's working...
@@iflex1963 LOL! Wait wait wait - the Biden administration said that they "put in the work" and "THAT is what important".
Thanks for the quick reply. Glad to hear this was the solution and saved you... well - what would be about $60k in Biden dollars today. Maybe I got my math wrong. Who knows. We know he doesn't.
I know you it works for you and many other people but I will tell you that you are allowing water to sit in your block walls and it can really wreck havoc on the stability of your basement walls if those blocks stay wet for a good amount thru the years they can and will start to deteriorate, I'm not knocking what you did I'm just informing you from someone that has 20 years in the waterproofing basements that can cost you more in the long run with block walls holding water
Actually I did not change the dynamics of how long water "sits" in the wall because I didn't trap it in the walls. Painting the walls with a sealer would do much more of keeping the moisture in the wall. Also unlike a closed channel system mine allows air to evaporate the moisture much quicker. The channel I created is only wet during and after a rain a few days. It doesnt stay wet. I did add some weep holes to allow quicker draining which is not mentioned in the video. The only real way to prevent water from contacting blocks would be to attack it from the outside which in many cases is next to impossible to prevent. As far as water decaying blocks that is a very long process. Water eats away at everything given enough time. River rock are rounded by flowing water. Concrete blocks are specifically used underground because of there resistance to water. I appreciated your comment however you didnt give any advice for an improvement.
Not a contractor, but agree with the above guy. Terrible idea. Standing water breeds insects, especially mosquitos and mold for 2 things. At least pour a water and bleach solution down your trough every so often to kill the mold.
@@dennisf7086 There is no standing water..no mosquitos..and no mold.. I guess you would prefer the whole basement under water.
@@iflex1963 But it is deceiving ,most people don't understand how moisture affects basements .just because you saved money does not make it a correct job.
@@robb930 Just because you disagree with my method doesn't mean that you have a point.
What is "Tap Con"? Am I spelling this correctly?
Its tapcon. They are concrete screws..
@@iflex1963 Thank you so much!
I have a company coming to waterpoof my new house. The groundwater is so high around lake Michigan right now that its seeping thru even the inside walls.
Be prepared for a big bill..They aren't cheap!
@@iflex1963 yup 16k from a respectable local company. Everdry wanted 27k...
@@andymccloskey8039 Are you popping for it?
@@iflex1963 I have the money in savings and I just finished part of my basement. Plus since my wife and I want to raise or kids here, seems like a good investment.
@@andymccloskey8039 Probably so...I would negotiate the price..Make an offer of 13 grand.. Tell the lowest guy you have a lower offer but his time table is further out... They have wiggle room.. Good luck!
I would still chop out and do the drainage system…don’t go cheap …foundation repair ain’t cheap
So the walls stay constantly wet....that cant be good for mould. This is a short term play....long term, dig out the other side and drain it properly.
I was thinking about mold as well. What about a sealant for the walls?
@@chrisrioux this basement needs a pressure relief trench system. This guy's basement will eventually implode due to the stress of water on the walls.
@@greghillmusic Nostradamus predicting the future... Your brain is going to implode long before this basement wall fails..
@@greghillmusic he drilled pressure relief holes every 30” in the wall, no pressure behind that wall. There are commercially available versions of this waterproofing method for about 3x the price. Still about 10x-30x cheaper than digging drains on the outside of the wall.
This looks like a great way to do it. If your basement is level, then how does your water drains? Looks more like you built a dam.
Actually I built a channel not a dam. Every hard rain that we got I would have to vacuum about 20 gallon off the floor. Imagine slowing pouring that amount of water (20 gallon) into that channel that I built. If the floor of the channel were perfectly level the water as it fills the channel and gets some depth will run to a lower spot which in this case is the drain at the other end of the basement. All I did was create a "conduit" to control the path in which it takes thereby creating dry space everywhere else.
I'm going to be doing this excact thing myself today. Seems pretty easy and looks like it will work well. I do not want to dig up the basement so this is perfect. And my basement only leaks from one spot mainly.
@@timosness3667 Good luck.. give us an update when it's been tested with a good rain..
Video does not play after a few seconds. Can you reupload?
I dont have the video anymore...try watching on another computer...
works fine for me, some videos don't play right at certain resolutions for reasons I don't know *only experienced it on one video, I think it was an AutoHotKey tutorial vid* . working fine for me at 720p though.
Works fine for me.
Nice system...it's called a dewatering system
Can I hire you?
Where are you located?
Ditto - York area, here
Lol yeah me too. I’ve been painting my walls with dry lock. But I don’t know if it’s going to work yet. Haven’t had any heavy rain yet. There’s only one wall where water comes in but unfortunately it spans the entire side of my house
This is terrible for the long term health of the perimeter wall foundation over time, you're going to need dehumidifiers ebeywhere to keep that valley dry
Actually I have one dehumidifier running in the room... near 1000 square feet... and after a heavy rain it's dry as a popcorn fart within 2 to 3 days. Works like a charm for me.
It's funny seeing this and saw this guy business basically does this, but it looks cosmetically good. link is right here(czcams.com/video/N1vu0f6qgOA/video.html) just thought it was neat and probably little bit more and simple to use. my drain is in the middle of my basement, so this part would be a sore eye.
His system will work however it looks pretty fragile....easy to crack if you put anything near the wall...plus no way to clean it out every couple years.. I can very easily as its open.
I knew someone who had this vinyl cove molding baseboard stuff installed and it failed with leakage. These baseboard systems are over marketed as a DIY business opportunity and apparently my friend hired some schlub who was trying to do this work. I trust the vinyl brick molding a lot more. The baseboards are secured only with epoxy adhesive, running up the expenses. Also the brick mold per linear foot is MUCH cheaper.
But you did not solve the dampness issue.
Are you in 3rd grade?
dehumidifier
This is not how you do this. A trench 10 inches beyond the footer and 10 inches deep, 4 inch perforated pipe. with weep holes in ever cell of every block including the mortor joint. This wall will buckle.
Thanks for your expert opinion....however this block wall has been there since 1970....52 years....straight as ever...
You have not relieved hydrostatic pressure. You have not destroyed the mold friendly environment. You will have to spend that money or DIY a basement pressure relief system eventually.
Finally...the smartest person in the chat has arrived..
I just spent $4400 for a local team to do my 98 linear ft basement properly. Not that hard to find a decent local team. Someone had to say it.
@@greghillmusic Well I knew you were either a leading foremost authority on basement waterproofing or someone who was convinced by a self proclaimed expert that the house would fall down if they don't depart with a pile of money immediately. Had to be one or the other. First... I don't have a mold problem.... Mold thrives in areas that remain damp...mine dries up a day or two after a large rain...and I drilled holes in all the block chambers....which no water comes out of....(was a waste of a good masonry drill) which means no hydrostatic pressure.
@@iflex1963 yes I did a lot of research research have a good idea of how water works around basements and what works as a solution. You're ignorant of the fact that you WILL have mold and water damage come up through your floor eventually because water is under and all around your walls, brother. I applaud the temporary fix. Just warning you that it is a TEMPORARY FIX
@@greghillmusic You must be like 14 years old if you haven't learned that everything is temporary...including your and my life... This particular apartment building is near 50 years old... still standing.. and the basement is dryer than it's ever been...