Wildlife Rescue: Urgent Fix Needed on 2016 Transit 250 to Protect Our Furry Friends!
Vložit
- čas přidán 24. 08. 2024
- I've NEVER had one of these in my shop, EVER! Thanks @SedgwickCoZoo for bringing me this totally one-of-a-kind 2016 Ford Transit 250 van. It's having a very weird problem that MUST be addressed for the safety of the wildlife it transports. I bet you've NEVER seen the inside of a custom zoo van before. ➡️ Don't forget to check out @MrsWizardsWays video on what she hates about filming Car Wizard videos.
🔮🔧 AMAZON AFFILIATE STORE #ad : www.amazon.com... 🔧🔮
🇬🇧🇬🇧 UK AMAZON STORE #ad : www.amazon.co.... 🇬🇧🇬🇧
👕 CAR WIZARD MERCH: teespring.com/... 👕
📷 INSTAGRAM @realcarwizard / realcarwizard 📷
🧰 BENDPAK LIFTS: www.bendpak.com 🧰
🎞️🚙 CAR WIZARD SHORTS ON FB: / carwizardfb 🚙🎞️
🎸 LIFT AND OUTRO MUSIC BY CLAYTON CAGLE: / claytoncalifornia 🎸
🎶 INTRO MUSIC: Green Daze by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon... 🎶
#carrepair #carwizard #carmechanic #autorepairshop #automobile #cars #car #fordtransit #fordtransitcustom #transitvan #customvan #animaltransport
Missed chance when you opened the slider to have a little lion plush inside.
That would've been funny and adorable!
*Shout, "Rally" faster!* :)
What do ya mean? They had a gorilla crawling in and out throughout the video lol
@@custos3249 Are you talking about the Car Wizard? If you are, shame on you.
@@MichaelOKeefe2009 Ok, gramps. Now sit back down before you spill your colostomy bag again.
I was waiting for tyler hoovie to pop out when he opened the van for the first time @ 3:30
Dressed as a tiger
I was expecting the same 😂😂😂
Now that would have been a wild animal lol
My older Mercedes Sprinter van had the exact same problem. The previous owner converted it into a RV and did not upgrade the Alternator. After my brand new 900CCA battery discharged twice on me and the instrument panel started to malfunction, I realized the alternator could not handle the extra load.
Needed the $1500 ambulance prep package, includes two 250 amp alternators, two batteries.
They should have ordered it with the auxiliary ac. They figured they can get it cheaper aftermarket
The 250 Amp alternator is a must. I also want to see what the current draw is through the relay. It still may be drawing over spec for the relay. I also want to make sure the wire guage is thick enough to handle the inrush current not just seady state current; this applies to the relay as well.
if voltage drops amps will climb. The AC was not getting the voltage it needed so it was increasing the amps to compensate.
If you put a higher voltage across a real load current (nonlinear) increases by I=V/R. Even if the load is using a buck/boost DC-DC Converter to make the input current draw vary inversely to maintain a constant voltage and current ouput with this can only happen in a very narrow zone of control for input voltage.
Also note that the modules were still operating with current draw in excess of the relays rating. This tells me that the inrush current draw on start up would be even greater.
The electronic modules likely do not have sophisticated DC voltage control. They are likely buck converters or voltage regulators. This why they must function in a narrow voltage band or ahut down.
@@markhickox1379 I wonder if the module failed to "on" instead of "off" so it was no longer regulating amperage and allowing anything to pass.
@@markhickox1379 If the AC wants a certain power, it'll try to draw more current if voltage drops. Remember, P=VI. Also, what do you mean by "real load current (nonlinear)"? 1) The term is "resistive". 2) There's nothing nonlinear about the equation. 3) AC compressors are not resistive loads. That rotating magnetic field *will* exist and cause inductance.
The idea that current increases as voltage drop to maintain a constant level of power is only true if the load has a power supply designed to do this or if it is feeding a motor with reduced back EMF causing an increase in current to the load or in the case of AC power induction motors increased slip. The only types of load any electrical circuit sees are real (R), inductive (I), and Capactive ( C) loads. In the case of a Capactive load you see turn on transients with high inrush current and reduced voltage that gradually builds up. An inductive load has low intitial current on start up and supply voltage and then goes to high current at low voltage. Niether a purely inductice ot capactive load will have any power transmitted to it at steady state from DC power. The capactive load has no current flowing through it; the inductive load looks like a short and as such can't transmit power.
How do I know? I work on this stuff all day long as I am a power electronics engineer. This is just the building blocks on how this stuff works.
Love this! The crew at Sedgwick County Zoo does an amazing job at keeping their animals happy and healthy and I'm glad you could help them out with this
Not for free hahaha
The late great Don Rickles would joke; "Oh, the perfect vehicle to take the mother-in-law out in. After laughter, 'that joke is gonna cost me when I get home.'"
😂😂😂😂😂
Vans like this in the UK and Europe are almost exclusively powered by strait four diesels. Like anything, they can have issues: turbo, injectors ect but offer impressive fuel economy.
Diesel emission regulations in Europe are actually less punishing and harmful to diesel combustion engines than in the states. That's why diesels are unpopular here. Otherwise everything would be a diesel.
There was a PowerStroke I-5 diesel option for the US Transit
@@kalashnikov1343 not realy EU have different standard for Disel fuel
@@VerdoVeri that's exactly what I'm saying. Don't tell me no then agree with me.
The sprinters in North America mostly have 3.0 diesel which is spectacular. They get over 20mpg highway for 3500. Which is unheard of
I’m quite surprised they didn’t go with an RV ac that is 100% self contained. They make low profile units and the latest versions can be had in a heat pump configuration so it can heat in the winter and cool in the summer.
In my experience RV units run on 120V AC. Is that still the case?
Those run off of 110 volts and are meant for an RV park stop, not running down the road.
@@oambrosia Dual voltage 12 VDC/120 VAC.
@@williamjones4483 I'll have to look that up. That's a lot of power to pull at 12V...
@@hotpuppy1 Typically the RV generator is used while under way if the "house" AC is needed.
I remember in high school guys would get the higher powered alternators just for their sound systems because if you start putting too strong of a sound system in a car the alternator won't be able to keep up
Retired mechanic here. I instantly knew its a stock alternator. They need a heavy duty alternator and dual battery set up.
8 years old? thats unheard of these days. an interstate can't compete with that. good video as always, wizards. im glad i stuck around (i was one of the petty ones throwing a fit about you and no domestics little while back, stupid i know, and i was in the wrong) for whats its worth, im sorry.
My old Chevy Express battery lasted 11 years before it needed replaced.
So true if you're lucky you can maybe get 4 years out of a battery these days probably three tops though
Yoo I’ve got a boat battery that is from 2007 that works flawlessly it’s an energizer it was tested and it’s still good that’s when we bought the boat like 2 years ago it does not have issues still 😂
I unplugged my DRL module and doubled my battery life
On the farm where stuff is semi exposed we are lucky to get two years out of a battery these days. Used to be good for five or so. Not anymore
seen the same thing in high school when the tools would go to walmartand max out their beaters with sony xplode systems, amps, and woofers.
LoL I knew a guy that did exactly that with about 3 or 4 cars in a row. He didn't even wire them with crimps or shrink tubes, just twisted stripped ends together and wrapped it up with electrical tape
@@jonathanryan2915 I believe the person that connected wires by stripping and twisting the wire ends togethery must have some relatives in Australia.
putting in an audio system worth more than the car itself
3:03 That "door" is for the right hand drive market. It's the same body for both models, the only external difference is where the side cargo door is placed. It always opens towards the sidewalk, on the passenger side.
Dual sliding doors was an option in the past as well
Easy to convert to dual door
You can option the side load door wherever you want it, perhaps the user needs it on the right, I guess you dont deliver many tigers to kerbside destinations. The big give away for a RHD vehicle is the steering being on the right which is a bit trickier than moving the door.
As soon as I heard about the aux ac being installed and Wizard didn't mention the alternator wasn't upgraded. I knew exactly what the issue. This issue happens with upgrading audio systems with extra subs. Need that new beefy alternator.
I visited the zoo when I had the chance to come to Wichita for work years ago, and it is definitely a must visit for any first visitor to town. IIRC, they had an older FJ Land Cruiser on display at one of the animal exhibits. If you have to come to Wichita and got the kids, totally recommended to visit.
Rainman Ray has a small diameter alternator pulley. He also added a second alternator to his Silverado.
Yeah, I saw that project too. I'm doubtful about the smaller pulley as it's making the alternator spin faster and possibly wear out the bearings quicker.
@@williamjones4483 👍The rotor might explode from the centrifugal force of high speed.
I'm shocked that the outfitter of the AC fan didn't include a 250 amp alternator and 80 amp relay as part of the install. If I were the Zoo I would send the bill to the installer.
I've never seen a battery last that long, especially in Kansas weather.
I can remember when 50 amps were considered more than adequate for a vehicle. Most things ran off vacuum then.
Lucas alternators...
34 amps standard for a 1971 4 cylinder Series Land Rover...
"Ya want that upgraded mate...can do 42 amps out of the same alternator if ya want?"
Yes please....
1975 Datsun 120Y (B210)....
standard 50 amps Denso/Hitachi alternator for the 1179cc engine
(now minimum 60amps for replacements)
What a great service technician you are truly a wizard
You are going to have to install another battery and double the alternater output. And wire the air con with one Guage wire.
Danielsan is a BEAST of a mechanic. Pun intended. Well done Car Wizard.
The fact the original shop couldn't figure out that the stock 150 amp alternator would be unable to keep up with a secondary after- market A.C. is crazy.
I feel like this should've been obvious.
"You may need to upgrade alternator" This should have been told to the zoo people. Maybe the zoo people refused it. The AC company should have said "We do it right or we do nothing"
How does this happen.
Low voltage would be second guess. But I also wouldnt have considered how much amperage a mechanical compressor AC system would drive.
“Animals wouldn’t want to be a rocket” LOL. My dogs thank you.
Laika that....ooh wait....
I had a car that started dying like that from time to time after its alternator burnt up (literally) and was replaced. The shop couldn’t replicate the problem. Dealer couldn’t find the problem, either, so I took it to an auto electric shop. They couldn’t find it either. I took it home. That night I was thinking that a loose battery cable might cause it. I popped the hood, grabbed the positive cable at the battery and it lifted right off. Tightening the cables and all is well.
Sometimes it's the simple things....
All that is in that roof mounted unit is the evaporator, condenser, and a pair of fans.
Those must be honking fans to draw that much amperage~!
Great video!
May not necessarily be the case. If the 150 A alternator is at it's 'limit' when supplying power to the standard vehicle systems, then anything over that will result in a similar issue at idle revs.
the transits are pretty good vans but tbh i prefer the old Econoline vans with the 4.6/6.8’s.
Full body on frame, strong V8, and no silly looking headlights for the win.
Can't stand up in them though
@@tomcraftdonkey2285true but nothing a sawzall and van topper cant fix.
My “17 transit has rear AC. It came standard with the high output alternator to compensate.
Some of those vehicles have upfitter switches to hold the engine at a fast idle .
This is why emergency vehicles have beefed up alternators. To power all the radios, computers, lights. Same issue with people adding huge power amps for stereos.
Every ambulance I drove had 2 alternators and 2-4 batteries. They also all had massive parasitic draws and needed to be plugged in if they sat more than a day.
@@mph5896 Damn, didn't know that.
Sir , I'm so thankful that you undertook fixing this vehicle....thank you very much.❤
"Lions and tigers and Wizards, OH MY!"
Nice !
I have a 2018 350 that I love. Got it because I have 6 kids and the two teens are getting to big for the Suburban. Love it. The only issue I have had with the thing was my fault. I tried to install trailer lights and not realizing how the lights were powered off small transistors in the BCM I threw a code for the BCM and my turn signal never worked after. I thought for sure I was going to have to pay 600 for a new module and another 400+ for a shop to program the thing.
Luckily I found FORScan and figured I could now just get the module then program it myself. Luckily this was not even the case because when I did a BCM test with FORScan the module reset itself and it works again. Learned my lesson with the money saved and bought the correct harness for the job.
I have a 2022 transit 350 with 3.5 ecoboost and it came with 250 amp alternator and dual batteries, easily puts out 60 amps for a battery to battery charger for camper batteries. Of course Ford offers oem rear ac which would have eliminated problem in the first place. Also an ambulance option for 2 alternators. These things haves options like an F150, a bunch.
I have a 2017 Transit T350. I hate it. I miss my 2006 Chevy Express 3500. It was so much more reliable.
At this moment I am deciding between a new Transit and an Express, thank you for your comment. You just nudged me in the right direction. Master toilet mechanic [plumber].
@@jamesrecknor6752The Express vans especially the 4.3 V6 (the V8’s are good as well) are just dead simple in a world where vehicles are constantly getting more complicated. They may not be the fanciest but they’re simple durable and pretty badass honestly. I love the way they look we have a couple with service bodies at work and they’re awesome.
Glad you're still taking these interesting cases, even though you're taking the shop in a more specialized direction.
They can be ordered with factory air in the cargo area. Insulating the floor and roof would also go a long way to keep things cool in the cargo area.
i can't believe somebody pulled the parts cannon on this and couldn't work out the alternator can't cope lol
I used to install aftermarket A/C systems in school buses. That is a sloppy job all the way around, from the hose routing to the wiring. The buses had beefy electrical systems designed to handle the A/C add on, but we always checked AMP flow and alternator performance as part of a checklist before any vehicle was released back to the customer. It is hard to find a good shop that does this kind of work, they tend to hire very inexperienced people who may call themselves technicians, but they are probably the lowest skill level they can hire to do this type of work. Why? Because they pay them garbage money, like $12/hour, which is good to them compared to their old minimum wage jiffy lube job. The have no electrical skills whatsoever nor can they troubleshoot. This is the result. They just buy the kit from a manufacture of A/C systems and slap together the install, as you can see for yourself. There might be one person who they pay more, who can solve the simpler problems and supervise the rest of the monkeys. Purely a high profit, low quality business. They probably paid $10k for that extra A/C.
To watch the voltages on your own vehicles just buy one of those cigarette lighter/ plug charger units that have USB plus voltage readouts on them.
should have had Tyler jump out with a T-Rex costume on lol
I'm not surprised they needed additional ac. I drive ford transits for a living delivering groceries and while the cab ac works great while you are seated up front the cargo area absolutely roasts when it's hot out. Even on our upfitted vans that have interior paneling and insulation its hot, the buffer rental vans I had to drive a few times are brutal with just bare metal. It's like being in an oven with heat radiating off the roof, walls and even the floor.
Edit: One of the replacement vans I drove was an awd 250 with the ecoboost v6 and it's shockingly fast 0 to 45 for such a large utilitarian vehicle.
I think this is exactly what's happening with my T150 Transit. Using it for my mobile mechanic rig, put in an inverter, which I use sometimes to charge batteries and devices, but the alternator just can't seem to keep up for some reason.
Thanks for the video!
I'm guessing whoever installed the AC didn't think to do extra research and verify if the alternator needed to be upgraded after install
As an "OLD!" car stereo guy - the alternator was my guess. Great detective work, though! I would have dealt with that during my install - and probably adding a mid-size capacitor to deal with the start-up. 👍
A better description of low voltage is the computer will kill power on the accessories one by one until it cannot support engine function anymore! The computer saved the power to the dash to keep the motor running.
That's a good life for a factory battery I remember testing many customer's batteries that were about 6-7 years old and that is usually when they give the bad battery code in my experience. Really good ones can do 8 years sometimes 9 if you are lucky.
As soon as you mentioned the code for the low voltage and lost communication with the modules I immediately thought the charging system. That alternator cannot keep up with the power draw of the extra A/C.
Great info here. That was my first guess. All made sense, multiple failures at once tied to new, high draw component install.
Great video, great diagnostic, great explanations and a feel good story to top it off!! Great job as always.
The penguins want a Thermo King. TK cost $70,000.
Polar bears too
it was a tight squeeze but I put 2 batteries in my van. best ever upgrade if use power when the van shut off.
Said it pulls 32 Amps but i saw 15 before the jump cut? When voltage drops amperage goes up fast. That's why things shut down when low voltage is detected. Also the grounds should be looked at as well they are just bolted right to painted metal. If you scrape the paint off and use some dielectric grease it will work much better.
13.8-14.2 volts DC, it charges at 14.54 because it has too many pixies! 1-250 amp alternator will fix it but needs an additional B+ charge wire.
Had a 96 S10 do the exact same thing and it was the alternator dying. Basically the gauges would go out, sometimes even the daytime running lights / brake lights would go out.
Don't show this van to Hoovie, he will instantly buy it and do an LS swap
Those FoMoCo batteries last a really long time.
Had the giraffe truck of a circus brought into the Dodge dealership I worked at with transmission problems. Heavy line mechanic went nuts. The bed was made of 2x6 boards on end about 1/2 apart for the scat to drop out. Drop it did right onto the trans and drive live. A porter was sent to wash it off but instead washed out the inside down onto the drive line. Finally took it to a bull wagon washout and got it mostly clean so it could be worked on.
Shit!
This transit is in good shape. I’ve seen a lot with damage on Dutch roads. Most of these are plain white parcel trucks.
Thanks for this video. I love watching you and your team troubleshoot. Thank you for this video.
Great diagnostics and hands on content on your videos here lately, Wizard!! Bravo!!~~
Probably a good thing things worked out this way. If they hadn't caught the overheating relay the van might have caught fire with an animal in it. Unless the company that installed the A/C doesn't usually work on a smaller van like that you would have to think they would check on the size of the alternator & advise customers to get a larger capacity alternator if the vehicle doesn't already have one.
Thank you for helping the Zoo.
My work rig is a ‘17 150 Transit. Unmodified. Dashboard has been wonky from new. Once in a blue moon the needles randomly spazz out. I wonder 🤔
Wow. Good for you. That is not what I would've guessed. Great testing skills.
The smart car you worked on could probably fit in this
Awesome diagnostic skills and I ain't lion!
He's the goat...no kidding!
I know that Transits are popular especially in Europe but looking at that engine bay alone is enough for me to get a Super Duty cab-chassis and have a body built for it.
When something goes wrong the amount labor needed to do anything in the engine bay is going to quickly make the truck chassis a good investment.
In either case I agree with everyone saying that they really should have opted for the ambulance package, that said they bought this van before thinking and adding the secondary A/C and it shows which is sadly not uncommon in the business/institution world.
Yeah whenever you modify something, make sure you're not creating a problem with that
A 12 volt RV roof AC unit might've been a more efficient and easier installation than what they have in there now.
I had a feeling it was either an electrical rated issue and/or the alternator wasn’t powerful enough.
You carried out proper diagnostics and found the problem an alternator that has more power
Had similar with my old Mk7 Ford Escort, added two front fog lights, early one morning sat in a queue idling on a rainy day, wipers, blower, lights, heated rear screen all on, forgot the fogs were also on, car started to die. Killed the alternator and the battery. Learnt to remember to turn the fogs off after that! And that was a car from 1996 with very few modules in it. Add anything requiring significant power to a vehicle and you must also upgrade the alternator and maybe the battery as well. The guys that run big audio systems know this too.
Those vans seem like they should have much bigger wider wheels and that it should have dual wheels on the back . I figure many people in the trades load them up with lots of heavy stuff.
Dual wheels are available on the 350, smaller wheels are typical of these Euro market vans.
Depends on the load rating.
If its used as a parcel delivery van for example the cargo won't be that heavy and a single wheel axle is just fine.
Transit vans do have a twin wheel axle option.
Not always the case. As a former parcel delivery driver - it's 'generally' large volume and low mass items.
I am surprised the engine didn't shut down. Some new cars won't start when voltage drops below 12.3V. I would assume the "just installed AC" part wasn't passed on to the mechanic. That goes back to the 90's when big draw stereo amps were popular. Drawing 30A, the fuse could be 40A, which would require 8 ga wire and good connectors. Considering the initial install was shoddy it'd be good to do a follow up on their install.
Glad to see the install was mostly ok. When we had a wheel chair lift on our Astro van, it felt like such a hack job.
Welding wire all they way to feed the power switch next to the lift...
and the same size ground wire back to the battery negative terminal.
I'm thinking to run that a/c, needed extra or at least upgraded battery. And upgraded alternator. All my vehicles I run extra gear. My Jeep has a 350amp alternator and runs only on lithium. My Escalade has dedicated alternators.. 180amp alternator powers the trucks AGM. I have 400amp alternator set at 16v that charges a 120ah Plannano lithium bank that powers the sound system. Lots of sound deadner. LOTS 1/0 & 2/0 OFC cable. Copper extremely expensive to what it was 3 years ago. In my hobby the saying is 'It takes power to make power '. Now I'll watch the rest 😀
Nice video, Wizard....but please, the a/c unit draws current, which is measured in amperes. The quantity is electric current, it's unit of measurement is amperes. Your car uses gasoline to power it, it's unit of measurement is the gallon. Would you say " I need to put some gallonage in my car "?
Good video. I live in BC, Canada and I listen to the Sedgwick area police calls on Broadcastify.
Daniel son was given a car off the Wizard then ghosted him and left the Wizard! After Magic Mike and Grimes, he must of been desperate.
Didn’t think alternator was on the list of things wrong 😂 but 11.08 is low shouldn’t be less then 13.ish in normal factory setup.
What?..No sunroof for the giraffes?...I mean, I think they might need it.
My guess is charging system unable to keep up with the A/C if it's 12v electric.
The manufacturers Of The axuary AC should have sold a retro electrical up grade kit
I wonder how common this problem is in the rv van conversion world and where people add things to their vehicles and overload the electrical capacity of their vehicles.
There's something about true facts and applied logic that works well. Rock on.
I was thinking from the moment you said secondary air-conditioning unit, I was like did they upgrade the alternator! Its something outside of most normal car folks frame of mind. However in the worlds of off roaders and car audio folks we understand all the extra devices pulling just a bit too much. especially when its all the little things and the stock alternators really only produce 120% of the cars operating power needs. Some have barely 10-20 amps of head room, thats a small amount of led lights realistically speaking.
Lemme guess; failing EGR system dumped coolant into the engine causing it to hydrolock. No? Did better than mine, then.
We ❤ The SCZ! 🌻🦁🐾 We would live there if they'd let us
I say #1 Charging system: alternator can't keep up with the extra installed equipment
My pops bought an ambulance package 89 ford e350, only changed the transmission once, he passed and i still used it for cargo. It lasted us almost 20 years until I sold it.
I guessed that was the problem as soon as you started describing the problem.
Man, I should come work for you. I knew this one almost instantly.
Mmmmm, I would have actually tested the current output of the alternator. You assumed it could not keep up but it could also be that the ecu is not ‘seeing’ the additional load and not ‘commanding’ more current output. A lot of modern cars require careful choice of the earth (negative) wire location. I wonder if the negative wire from the new system is connected directly to the battery, bypassing the ecu current sensing.
I would have guessed it was to much for the stock system with the addition of the ac. I would have recommended them put in a separate power source for the second ac on install instead of adding on to it, mostly because I watch a lot of van life/camper van videos. Not sure what their options would have been, but a good sized solar system or separate alternator and battery to run that separately would have been my first thought. But it is good that there is a 250 amp alternator option for this vehicle. Good to know if I'm ever in the market for one of those vans. I would want to see if it has that already installed.
Drive one like that for the bakery i work for in Indianapolis. Nice driving van back up camera in the rear view mirror.
I was expecting Hoovie to be in there.
@12:37: Funny, you list a Milwaukee, but that's a Kaiweets. :)
(Buy a Klein CL390.)
Probably just needs a bigger alternator, or the engine needs to be tuned for a harder idle throttle or higher idle speed. I see this with 2 way radio stuff all the time. Could be the compressor dragging down the idle speed too much or the alternator is too weak.
Surprised this didn’t have the 250amp alt being a work van
I would think the gauges maybe used as a remote turn on. Maybe they tapped the wire or fuse