Hi Steve, really enjoying following this series. Just a Quick note on the timing, these distributors have a 24 tooth sprocket on top, dividing that by 360 gives you a 15 degree offset, which would put you right back at your 2 degree BTDC. Just a quick way to diagnose where your error is coming from. I see later in the video you figure this out anyways, but cheers.
Well that's quite a conundrum. i got to thinking about it after a while myself. I agree, someone probably just didn't know. Yeah, I wouldn't start it without proof of static timing. i'm having enough fun with my Volvo Penta MD series engine.
Steve, I know you found the book you did at the library but wanted to provide this link that I found the other day while searching for information on my 86ish inline 6. It is not the OEM manual but appears to be close and does cover your year model. It has a section on the ignition systems, all 5 different types, that starts at page 164. Hopefully this can help you in your journey. It has been fun watching along.
I can't remember what episode it was, but when you disassembled the flywheel you remove the center geared portion. Could you not just do that again, but rotate the flywheel surface so the timing markings on the fly wheel align with those on the aluminum cover plate? correct me if I'm wrong as I couldn't find the video to double check haha.
I do not remember the episode, but know what you're saying. And there was an episode where I tried that very thing, moving it over one bolt hole. It was way off, and now that I think about it, I should've known it wouldn't work because there are 8 bolt holes, and 360 divided by 8 is 45, so one bolt hole over results in a 45 degree change, and there is about a 25 degree difference between the 2 labels. Of course I didn't figure this out until after I tried it lol.
never worked on any (fortunately) but have ran them since I was a kid, and have rebuilt about every other types of engines, including drag race engines for my son. My thoughts, from paying attention to how they seem to work, is in motors of that era, they all seemed to have a mechanical advance mechanism, that was activated at the start mode with a sepate lift up lever, which would correspond to the book saying it needs to be "tank timed". I would decipher that to meaning you at least need the linkage hooked up in order for timing to be correct, depending on whether you're in the advance (start) mode or the run mode mode. . my guess is that you are in the advance mode, and things will line up differently in the run mode, where it should be timed ...again..never worked on one but my subconscious sort of pays attention to what goes on around me!
Hi Jim. I like your train of thought, but in this instance, I was able to get things within the ballpark to attempt a start. I think the reason for the test tank prerequisite is because they want you to set the idle rpm's with the motor in gear, and the test tank offering some resistance to the prop.
+Steve Watroba so is there a mechanical spark advance in the starting mode?.. .I surely seem to recall the flywheel advancing when the lever was moved to the start mode
Jim Liechty It's really a neat bit of mechanical engineering. There are 2 "events" (I believe that's what they call them) Going from memory of what I read, the first pickup point is when the cam on the distributor just barely crack open the throttle butterfly, then as the throttle linkage is pulled toward wide open throttle, the whole distributor rotates until it hits a stop, then only the top (or bottom because it's upside down) section continues to rotate advancing the timing in preparation for the wide open throttle event. The trick is to get to full advance before WOT, otherwise the motor will bog down. This motor is supposed to be able to do what true speed demons call a "whole shot". I'm editing part 28 right now, and it'll show the timing checked with a timing light better.
Hi Steve, really enjoying following this series. Just a Quick note on the timing, these distributors have a 24 tooth sprocket on top, dividing that by 360 gives you a 15 degree offset, which would put you right back at your 2 degree BTDC. Just a quick way to diagnose where your error is coming from. I see later in the video you figure this out anyways, but cheers.
Well that's quite a conundrum. i got to thinking about it after a while myself. I agree, someone probably just didn't know. Yeah, I wouldn't start it without proof of static timing.
i'm having enough fun with my Volvo Penta MD series engine.
Steve, I know you found the book you did at the library but wanted to provide this link that I found the other day while searching for information on my 86ish inline 6. It is not the OEM manual but appears to be close and does cover your year model. It has a section on the ignition systems, all 5 different types, that starts at page 164. Hopefully this can help you in your journey. It has been fun watching along.
Thanks. I do not see the link. If you posted it, youtube might be flagging it as spam.
That probably would help. I told myself not to forget it and did anyway. boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/mercury_1965-1989_40-115.html#/0
I can't remember what episode it was, but when you disassembled the flywheel you remove the center geared portion. Could you not just do that again, but rotate the flywheel surface so the timing markings on the fly wheel align with those on the aluminum cover plate? correct me if I'm wrong as I couldn't find the video to double check haha.
I do not remember the episode, but know what you're saying. And there was an episode where I tried that very thing, moving it over one bolt hole. It was way off, and now that I think about it, I should've known it wouldn't work because there are 8 bolt holes, and 360 divided by 8 is 45, so one bolt hole over results in a 45 degree change, and there is about a 25 degree difference between the 2 labels. Of course I didn't figure this out until after I tried it lol.
never worked on any (fortunately) but have ran them since I was a kid, and have rebuilt about every other types of engines, including drag race engines for my son. My thoughts, from paying attention to how they seem to work, is in motors of that era, they all seemed to have a mechanical advance mechanism, that was activated at the start mode with a sepate lift up lever, which would correspond to the book saying it needs to be "tank timed". I would decipher that to meaning you at least need the linkage hooked up in order for timing to be correct, depending on whether you're in the advance (start) mode or the run mode mode. . my guess is that you are in the advance mode, and things will line up differently in the run mode, where it should be timed ...again..never worked on one but my subconscious sort of pays attention to what goes on around me!
Hi Jim. I like your train of thought, but in this instance, I was able to get things within the ballpark to attempt a start. I think the reason for the test tank prerequisite is because they want you to set the idle rpm's with the motor in gear, and the test tank offering some resistance to the prop.
+Steve Watroba so is there a mechanical spark advance in the starting mode?.. .I surely seem to recall the flywheel advancing when the lever was moved to the start mode
Jim Liechty It's really a neat bit of mechanical engineering. There are 2 "events" (I believe that's what they call them) Going from memory of what I read, the first pickup point is when the cam on the distributor just barely crack open the throttle butterfly, then as the throttle linkage is pulled toward wide open throttle, the whole distributor rotates until it hits a stop, then only the top (or bottom because it's upside down) section continues to rotate advancing the timing in preparation for the wide open throttle event. The trick is to get to full advance before WOT, otherwise the motor will bog down. This motor is supposed to be able to do what true speed demons call a "whole shot". I'm editing part 28 right now, and it'll show the timing checked with a timing light better.
get on the motor again.