Car Check: 2WD Modified Class | PN West Coast Regionals 2023 |
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- This car was really good on that race weekend. I came in the following positions: A1 - 2nd, A2 - 1st, A3 - 2nd. Came in 2nd Place for the West Coast PN Regionals. I'm just not used to 3 days of racing, it was a bit too much for me. Anyway, please see specs below.
RX28 SE (Gen1)
RR Bumper
GL Racing Green Springs (front)
Slight Toe out
.5mm caster shim
PN Rims19.5mm with .5mm offset (front)
PN Tires KS1038 - scuffed via PN v3 tire truer (glued)
Reflex Racing Rims 20mm with +3 offset (rear)
Marka Radial 15's (glued)
5g weight under RX and ESC
ESC is GL Racing - Blinky mode
Pink top shock spring with .5mm droop
Black side springs
13T/53T gearing (best with 12T)
Kyosho Diff with Carbide balls
GL Racing 5500kv (tested at 5900kv)
Ride Height: 1.7mm front | 1.5mm rear
Fast Eddies Ceramic Bearings (stock with grease)
Mako body
No play in the rear end of the car.
Average play in the front of the car.
I like this. I may steal it when I get into mod class.
Thank you for putting out these videos.
You're welcome! 👍
Thanks again for this helpfull video Tj! Regards Danny
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment and watching Danny!
I like to keep about the same amount of play in the front end as you. When the front end has too little play, I feel it gets really darty as well.
I typically run 2.0 front, 1.8 rear on most of our tracks. Some that are bumpy I run 2.2/2.0 for my starting heights. For anything lower than 1.8 front, the track needs to be glass smooth for me, or I can feel the bumps much more.
I ran 19mm almost exclusively in the front for a decade. On MR03 and GLR. The dual arm cars though, I tend to prefer the 20mm wheel with a lower sidewall at roughly the same diameter. With the 19, I would typically start at the same diameter that is common starting point for the 20mm wheel (22.4mm), but with much more meat on the tire on the smaller wheel. (just a light cut on the truer to round them for the standard size tire). It means more ride height adjustments over the life of the tire, but much more life out of the tire and feel for the specific tire since I use it for a longer time (rotating left/right every 3-4 packs on it depending on layout).
I also use the low height on the 19 with no cut for a kind of plug and play baseline setup for when I dont want to bring the truer to the track, I dont cut tires down at home. Initial mount is about 22mm diameter with the low height tires, so you dont get many runs on it before ride height gets too low. On GLR, with 22mm diameter wheel, its just under 2mm ride height if I remember correctly on a fresh install with no shims under the knuckles. It may take more tires, but I find that its much faster for me to scrub in and race with this method than to cut tires down and need to scrub them in for a pack and a half to get fully smooth to my liking.
I LOVE the 6000kv GL motor. I use that in most of my mod 2wd cars. I started using that when we ran SuperStock 10/53 just so that I could use the 10/53 gear on both the mod car and the SuperStock compared to the 5500 GL where 11 or 12 is the better gearing. Now, SS has different gearing, so now I need to stock more gears, but im going to keep the 6000 in my car. I think you should try it, its only a small step up from the 5500, but I think its a better option (at least for me). The 5500 just feels a little slow for me in the short chute acceleration zones when I gear it up 11-12. The 6000 10/53 feels like it accelerates off the corner like the 5500 10/53 but has enough speed for competition sized straights at that gear unlike the 5500.
Great video, a lot of good details explained! Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for the comment Eugene. These are good input for others to see!
Since I started back racing, I've always cut the tires but not to certain diameter. I just scuff it to make sure the tires are round/balance so that its not bouncing around. I just adjust the ride height which is very important part of my setup. Even my rear tires I cut to even it out when I'm running slicks, but not when I'm running radial rear tires. I have PN v3 tire truer at home and at Lemo we also have PN v3 tire truer for everyone to use all thanks to Arthur!
I bought the PN 7500kv motor right after the PN Regionals but I haven't used it. I'll try that first and see how I feel about it. At first, I didn't like the PN motors but lately, I start to like them. I like their 2500 and the 3500 Anima motors.
Weird how most of you guys are running small pinions. I think everyone at the Regionals ran smaller pinions than me. Maybe even smaller than 12T (I ran 13T)! I'll have to try those smaller pinions next time and I wasn't aware GL has 6000kv. I thought I bought their fastest motor which is the 5500kv. lol I'll look into it.
Thanks again!
@@tjaymacRC I use the 6800kv GL motor for AWD. I think that would be a bit too much for 2wd. It has more overall power than the 6000 or 5500, not just more RPM. The difference between 5500 and 6000 feels like an RPM increase at a similar power level in comparison.
The PN motors I feel make less power at the same KV, but are very smooth in their delivery. Team Power, HW and Atomic motors have more bottom end torque delivery, where the GL are more of a balanced motor with decent torque but smooth enough to manage on a tight infield.
The Rocket/NHX motors are based on the PN V2 sensorless design, tend to lack some of the punch that we have in the current sensored motors today, but make decent club race spec motors due to their price.
I tend to prefer the smallest puhon which provides the speed that I'm looking for on the straight. It provides the best feel for me both on and off throttle. Of course, it can vary a little depending on the type of motor in use. PN motors I tend to prefer a shorter gear, where the torquey motors i'll gear up a tooth or two to expand the power band.
Hi Tjay!
I’m about to date running new classes in my club.
For mod and pan car classes do you suggest to run 14 mm rear tires or 11 mm?
Interesting you asked me this because I just recently started testing the 14mm rear and 11mm front. The thing is that, with the same compound as 8.5/11 and 11/14 wheelsets, my lap times are the same. So its hard to say that the wide setup is faster or vice-versa. Although I will say that its hard to make the rear rotate with 14mm so I went back to 11 rear but kept the front 11 as well. I got better results with this setup. The front was more composed than the 8.5, making it easier to drive and I’m able to have the rear rotate better than the 14mm.
Unfortunately the lap times were identical. It all depends on what you want the car to do during the race. Do you want a more composed car to drive that may feel a bit lazy or a more agile car that can sometimes feel a bit aggressive? Times are the same so either wheel setup will work.
@@tjaymacRC Great to hear that!
I’m going to test both set ups them.
It’s a relief to hear 11 mm rear works great too, I have a ton of marka rear tires in stock lol 🤣
Thanks you Tjay 💯🙌🏻
@@martinvillagomez6873 Of course, anytime!