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@@patr3122 Hi, Is this a thing in the RC world? I never measured mine. I’m not aware if you’re supposed to? 🤷‍♂️ Anyway I just checked it for you and this body measured… Side skirt in front: 3.1mm Side skirt in rear: 3.3mm Front bumper: 3.6mm All my lexan bodies sits above the chassis plate and front CF bumper not leveled, but above those two. I just make sure that they don’t scrape on the track.

@@tjaymacRC thanks TJ. I think that’s what I was trying to ask, should it be mounted level with or above the bottom of the chassis ? I’m prepping my first Lexan body now, was just curious how to set the body height properly.

@@patr3122 I’m not very experienced mounting Lexan bodies but how I do mine is that I cut the body first in the suggested lines marked on the body. Then I do the body posts, followed by the wheel wells. After that, I would mount the body on the car with body clips. Then I would put the car on a setup board to check if the wheels are properly aligned with wheel wells (too high/low). Once aligned, I would start pushing down on the car to see if the body is touching the board, then I start to trim the side skirts and bumper via scissor or dremel. Most of the time my bodies are leveled or just right above the chassis plate and CF bumper. By just above I mean there’s no gap between the plate and body.

@@Johnbscv Hi, You’re welcome. I wasn’t at the race. These aren’t my footage. I recorded the races from my phone when the races were live so that those that had missed it can still watch it and for the drivers who raced in their class that wanted to watch their race/s again. In my local track (Inside Line Racing), the camera is right above the track.

@@tjaymacRC Ah, gotcha! Thanks for letting me know, and thanks for doing that!

@@riveravisuals4763 Hi, Yes but not in my cars but from the locals cars when I help set theirs. They work well and can be as good as DAA but I will never use that frontend because its more time consuming when servicing or tuning vs DAA. Just imagine if you want to lower the frontend or you want to add droop. You’ll need to remove parts few times. The DAA, you just turn the set screws or turn the spring collars.

@@tjaymacRC thank you for this. This made my decision a lot easier!

@@foleyflipa12345 Fronts: PN F1 19mm/+1.5 offset with Kyosho 30 low height. Rear: PN F1 20mm/+3mm offset with Gekko Soft. Here’s the video of my MR04 setup where I mentioned my wheels. czcams.com/video/Xq4CUw2AoEU/video.htmlsi=AObmpEObcfzm8fvz

Hopefully we can get a new toe bar this weekend to try.

Less grease to carry. I travel light so I only use 30k. I tried the 15k and 5k Kyosho grease and they're too light in the side dampers and center shock for me. It makes the car dip to its side abruptly. I prefer the 30K for the rear. In the front, I can run 15K and 30K and the car is fine but for packing less tools, I only bring 1 grease for the RX28 and that's the 30K. As for the springs, I'm running softs because I want the car to have a bit of body roll. It helps me smooth out my driving since I'm not a point and shoot driver, but I am not an aggressive driver so I don't blow my RX28's travel on every turn. I smooth it out so the compression is more progressive. If I use harder spring, I will not compress enough of the travel. If I use light grease, I will easily blow through the travel. It also all depends on how much traction. On a very busy day, clean track, high traction, I would be running harder/firmer springs but will stick to 30K grease. The RX28 G1 recommends 30K. The RX28 G2 recommends the use of 15K in the side dampers. I use 30K on both gens but on my G2 I use light coat of 30K. G1 thicker coat of 30K.

@@tjaymacRC ok that’s interesting. A lot of times is based on driving style and feeling. I was going to ask..since you have the MWX setup station, would you be able to or have you measured your current lock to lock steering degree angle?

@@RobV5 Let’s go by tiles since that’s how I measure my steering. If I place my car on the wall and make a full turn, the car can cover 1 1/3 up to almost 1 1/2 of the tiles. This is on a 50cm RCP.

What is your favorite electronics set up? I’m just getting into a 2500KV set up and I’d like your recommendations.

@@MultiAp101 ESC: GL-SD-ESC-010T RX: Mini RC Planet RX for NB4 ($34 one) Servo: A06 Transmitter: Noble NB4 (not the NB4+) Motor: PN 2500KV (no sensor wire installed)

@@rcstockum8154 The build quality to me is very good.

Please! Make a full video 🙏🙏🙏

Thanks Thao!

@@EMU1 Yeah, same here. I don’nt think it was meant to be at 4°. I think only 3° but it shows 4° when I checked with the MWX setup station. Also you can just eye it and know that its more than 3°. Yes. I tried the 15d first and the car can rotate in the rear on corner exit. The problem was the rear tires came unglued on the sweeper. But I wasn’t getting any small chatter/hops in the rear on the entire track. When I put the 10d after the 15d, the rearend started hopping infield and same in the sweeper, traction rolls due to tires folding (this set was route245 taped). I find the softer compound to give more lateral traction even before when I was testing the 94mm MR03EVO-Lipo. The rear had more chatter with 5d or 10d vs 15d. One of the reasons why I don’t run 5d in my 3500 or Mod cars. Mostly just 15d radials. We’re going to play around with the rear camber next but first we’ll take care of this tires that are peeling off the rims.

@@smokeyflapjack I agree. That would be the next upgrade for this car, less toe in the rear.

@@gotmesom Yes, first time. Learned how to use brake on that layout. No braking = .2 tenths slower on that layout.

@@berryb0nzo This is Thao’s BZ5 that I’m tuning. 🤷‍♂️ 😁✌️ Yeah, for sure the RTB if I decide to get an AWD.

Yeah its belt drive. I'm only used to the shaft drive AWD (mini-z and the Team Associated TC3) so I didn't expect this car to drive so calmly on the track. No on or off throttle torque steer. It really felt like I was driving a RWD but minus the rear end stepping out or spinouts.

Lucky to have a permanent track locally after not having one for few years. This belt drive AWD made it easier to drive on the track. Still trying to figure out the understeer and rear hops but we'll get there. Appreciate that, thank you!

@@tjpighin Idk what GT5 is but my NB4 has no glitch. I don’t remember saying the NB4 is glitchy in the video. Anyway, there is no glitch and its perfect for my 28th scale RC cars.

@tjaymacRC it is a cheaper flysky model. Seems to be a flysky issue as many have been complaining about it as of late. I would assume the nbl being a little higher end would not have to same issues but then you said yours kinda seems similar which makes me hesitant to purchase the nb4

​@tjaymacRC or you said notchy or something with the steering 1:15

@@tjpighin The NB4 doesn’t feel cheap. It feels like high end radio. Definitely not comparable to the GT5 which cost $70. You won’t notice that feel especially coming from GT5. Not very many notices that feel unless you drive the 10PX vs NB4 back to back on the same day for 400 laps like I did. Also this feel only happens with the MR04. Not with the kit cars. The 10PX and NB4 steering felt equal running the kit cars (RX28).

@@popitn2nd Nope. I don’t open any of my motors. Its not something I want to do because locally, we don’t tamper with the motors. If its bad, I buy new one.

@@tjaymacRCThanks! What size kv motor do you like or find yourself using the most?

@@popitn2nd I spend most of my time driving the 3500 car with the PN 3500KV v3. My backup motor is the GL 3500KV.

Surprisingly, it didn't change much driving this Atomic BZ5. I just had to let off a lot but that's only because I don't have parts that I need and I didn't spend a lot of time on this car yet. I was actually expecting the car to have a bit more aggressive feel to it (throttle and steering) just like my previous AWD's which were the GL Guilia and the Kyosho MA030 but these two cars are shaft drives and the BZ5 is belt drive. The BZ5 was easy to drive like RWD with new rear tires running on old front tires. That's what the BZ5 felt like, understeer but no torque steer feel. Usually the left and right of the AWD's are trying to fight each other when you get on the throttle or let off the throttle, but the BZ5 doesn't feel like that. It has a bit of "give" on or off throttle. It has a more linear throttle feel, which is what I prefer since I'm not a point and shoot driver.

@@tjaymacRC thanks man have a nice day =)

Car is stock. Came with ball diffs.

@@switchblade5984 The 4100KV is very slow. Its as slow as stock MR03 RWD (box stock). The 5600KV is almost as fast as the 8500KV. The lap times difference between 5600 & 8500 is .2 seconds. The lap time difference between 4100 vs 8500 is .8 to 1 seconds per lap. If you’re new to RC, get the 4100. If you’re Sportsman to Expert in bigger scale RC, get the 5600.

Not sure. I didn't try that.

I would assume so… my thought is that there’s possibly more surface contact with the shield being in place….. maybe leads to more resistance and increased friction? Maybe another test with pulling out the shields on the stainless ball bearings? Lol 😂 By the way, great video!

Appreciate that, thank you! Yes but rarely. I mean, I reach the steering lock position but I don't drive lock to lock. I make sure to use the entire steering range. I know others have their dual rate to almost max or maxed out so that they get to the full throw asap. I don't do this, my dual rate is around 63-77. This is not my kind of driving because I'm not relying on the front wheel to slow down the car. This style is only good when trying to set a fast one but not when racing. Depending on the track layout. I have been racing Mini-Z since 2007 but I didn't use brake until May-June of 2024 because I didn't think I need to learn how to use brake until my layout design in May. That track layout (the one in the video) required the use of braking at the end of the back straight. The difference was .20 secs between using brake vs coasting. I only use brake at the end of a long straight. In field, almost never. When the rear end is just whipping around on every turn. If you're new to this scale, set the car up to where the car is understeering. Even if you're an Expert driver in big scale R/C cars. You want this scale R/C to push a little to make it easy to drive. Once you figure out how to drive it, then start adding more steering via dual rate, heavier body or softer front springs. After doing all that and you still want more steering, change rear tires. Yes, the rear. Change it to something that has less traction. For example, if you're running Marka 5 slicks, try running Marka 10 slicks. If you did all that and still want more, change the front tires. I suggest to start with easy tires such as Kyosho 30 Low Height taped on 20mm rims. Use Route 246 tape only, not any other brand tire tape. Next step up would be PN KS1142 on 20mm rims. Also taped. I have plenty of videos where I talked about setup if you search my channel. 🤙

Hey Man, I appreciate you commenting and letting me know about the video. 🤙

@@carmichaelt2762 Hi Carmichael, Finally you got one! Just so you know, the Rocket 2500KV is not a fast motor. The only reason why we’re running this motor is because this is our local spec motor for the 2500KV-Lipo class. If you want speed, the PN and GL are faster. As for my settings in the ESC, mine is pretty basic. No boost/timing. I have my setup posted in my Community page. You’ll have to scroll down because I posted it a while back. I’m running 13/53 because this is our spec gearing. I didn’t do anything on the radio. Just basic setup. Throttle curve at 0.

Here’s the link:czcams.com/users/postUgkxCFhFKLNkXNjPUTLBu5dr0eI3ahPZAeKc?si=eyGw-DPNc4fxnW-V

​@@tjaymacRC sweet!!! Thank you again 😊

@@carmichaelt2762 You're welcome!

@@888-RC I was just using one of the 3 pins male connector. Then I opened up the housing to expose the pins.

@@tjaymacRC can you share the link for this connector pls. It seems like the perfect length and width to test these motora

@@888-RC Hi, I just made mine. I didn’t buy it. It came with as a kit when I bought one of the chargers. Sorry Idk the name of it. Maybe its called 3 pin JST connector? I’m not really sure.

@@popitn2nd MR04 = Kyosho 30 Low Height, RX28 2500 = KS1042.

Hi, No plans on entering any events.

@@tjaymacRC tj got a question i have a gl gt a pn 2.5 3500kv car and a rocky mountain spec car (modified box stock mro3) and a box stock mr03. I am trying to find a jomurema car kit or a jomurema pro car kit do you know any place they are available here in the US.

@@rickzfpv3118 Rick, I'm not familiar with Jomurema car kit or Pro Kit. Are you asking about the Jomurema GT01 body like this? www.hobby-addicts.com/collections/jomurema/products/jomurema-gt01-car-body-set-white The only Jomurema I have is the body (link above) with the PN Roof: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-V2-Lexan-Roof-JOMUREMA-GT01_p_46074.html Then I put PN spoiler on the Jomurema body: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-Touring-Car-Lexan-Rear-Wing_p_46885.html Not sure if this is what you're asking for but just in case. I just posted the links.

@@tjaymacRC no I already run the gt01 body on most of my cars already. They have a rtr car kit and a pro kit that from what i understand are in the same class as the mr03 rwd and the evo cars

@@rickzfpv3118 Oh ok, sorry I'm not aware of it.

Sorry to hear man but yeah, GL doesn't make those ESC anymore but you can still but the V1.2's which works with the Rocket 2500. Thanks for sharing! I use mine on my MR04 and the tires are now slicks. I haven't had any loss in traction but then again when I was running these tires, the layout was put out for a month so the traction was there. I probably would feel that loss in traction on green track.

Thank you for watching! I prefer dry or the dry chain lube (the one in this video) so the gears are free to move. When I flick one of the wheels, both wheels would spin freely with noticeable sound of the planetary gears spinning. Like the gears are dry! Any light grease to me at my local track, just feels like the left and right wheels is fighting each other on mid-corner. But when I remove this light coat grease (Tamiya ceramic grease), the gear diff feels nice and smooth in the mid corner. You can even tap on the gas to make the rear rotate a bit to keep a tighter mid corner line (only used when setting fast lap). So mine is not snug, its probably in between the snug and loose. You want to keep an eye out on that adjuster nut. Sometimes this backs off. What you want to do is to put the diff in the car, install the rear wheels and torque the right rear wheel nut all the way. Then back out the adjuster nut to your liking on how you want your diff to feel. You want to do it this way because that wheel nut plays a big role on why others cars have tight diff or why the car feels different every time they touch that Right Rear wheel nut.

@@tjaymacRC Thanks again for the great info!!

Hey Justin! 😂I had the comment off on that video because I didn't have enough time testing with different weight and tires. lol I'm not sure if you read the description box from that video but in there, I mentioned something about it. I did the test in Aug 2023 and again in Feb 2024 on my MR03 EVO because I couldn't keep the frontend of the car from bouncing off of something every time I hit the sweeper on full throttle. Adding weight didn't help, applying grease didn't help either so I tried a long shaft (screw) with smooth barrel type weight mass damper. The weight was sliding up/down the shaft freely and with the added 3g of weight, this "bounce" on the sweeper was almost eliminated. It really kept the frontend planted but I also had a lot of understeer from the added weight. I think if I spent more time on that, I would've tried different front tires and proper race body, but I stopped the test because my MR03 EVO (LiPo) broke (started cogging) and I also didn't like to use the 1S LiPo batteries... As for the Reflex tires. No, I haven't and I don't plan on trying any tires that is the around the same price as Marka or PN Tires.

@@tjaymacRC I was thinking of making my own mass damper with soft springs top and bottom of a 3 gram weight. 3 grams gets me to race weight anyway. I worry about under steer with the added weight because that’s what happens when I add any weight to the front. This is with any tire comb. I also had a really bad steering problem with my glr but finally figured out that the delrin pivot balls fit too tight around the kingpin.

@@tjaymacRC also, sorry for not reading the description of the last video. I will go back and do that. 😃

@@justinjames4969 It would be a tight fit even if you use 1 tiny spring because the location of the screw will be under the hood of the body. The weight has to be barrel shape as well. The coin or button shape weight does NOT slide freely up/down the shaft (due to seesaw effect). The barrel type does and using that will take up most of the space under the hood are of the car. But do share if you're able to fit one. Sometimes when I want more steering but I don't want A LOT of steering, I would go up in rear tire compound to something harder. For example, if I am understeering with Makra 5 slicks, I would try Marka 10 slicks. If Marka 10 slicks is still too much rear traction, I would go with a worn out Marka 15 Radials that are now slicks just to get the steering I want. Anyway, glad you got your car figured out.

@@justinjames4969 - No worries. I have info on most of my videos in the description box. ;)

Mini-Z wasn’t made for foam (not rubber) tracks. The track came after the Mini-Z… You can use it anywhere as long as the ground is smooth and clean. I have a box stock for my 6 y/o that she uses at home on the floor. I just have to sweep the floor and mop it before she can use her car. If I only sweep it, the car still gets dusty. If I don’t sweep, the car would pick up hair on the floor and get stuck on the wheels, drivetrain, etc. RWD can easily spin out on house floors or even garage cement floors. You’re better off getting the AWD from Kyosho. Reflex only makes RWD. No need to buy expensive kit cars for bashing on house floors. Box stock is perfect for that.

@@tjaymacRC thanks for the info! Do you know anything about the M20? AWD.. i've seen some videos saying the M20 is better for slower drift or something to that nature, but didn't know if you have any experience with AWD and if you prefer the older or the newest or if you have a specific AWD model you'd recommend?

@@Nullscr1pt You're welcome! I don't know much about drifting honestly so I'm probably not the person you should about about drifting but I have pretty decent throttle control which is what you need for drifting. If you're asking about too much power/torque with the MA030 it being brushless, you can always change the motor to 4100KV which is about the same speed as the stock brushed motor but without the drag. Then you can find the right gear ration (the kit comes with couple of gears) and you want to get a proper radio to adjust this throttle linear feel. I would highly recommend the Noble NB4 radio because they work perfect for Mini-Z and are cheap! In this video I made in 12/2022, I have a MA030 for grip racing and it had the stock motor with is an 8500KV motor and its a fast motor for slow speed drift. czcams.com/video/kJn46z-pEYc/video.htmlsi=tYezr07ZpmM4D33H

@@rcstockum8154 Glad you’re enjoying my videos! You’re welcome and thank you for commenting.

@@popitn2nd Yes I re-use the wheels when tires are done. Always except when the wheels are wobbly. I don’t keep those.

@@timtimng-jj3qn Thank you!

Appreciate that, thank you!

Hi Ethan, thank you! I started using these GNB's before the hard case were available. I haven't really looked at any other batteries only because the ones I'm using are working out for me.

Appreciated that Martin, thank you! Highest position: More body roll. Spring is more linear. Lowest position: Car drives more "flat". Spring is more progressive. The benefit is so that a driver can choose which settings he wants or set a car up depending on the track layout and traction of the track. For example, if the track has highspeed chicane and the traction is high, you want to try the lowest settings. This will make the car to transition in the chicane a lot quicker than it would in the high position. I use the high position because I prefer a car that rolls into the corners. A point and shoot driver would prefer the mid to low settings for that quick/snappy steering feel.