Great video. Thanks! For anybody planning on using this product - USE IN A VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA!! This stuff is brutal on the "brain cells". The other thing I noticed is that I first mixed it in a small PolyStyrene cup - melted the cup in 20s!! Don't do that. I think the package says you have about 10min working time, but I'd use it like he's demonstrated here in the video - much sooner. I'm using the product to fix a leak in my hot tub piping. Hopefully it works!
Hi Hot Tub Parts Depot - Thank you for your comments. So pleased to hear about your customers being helped with Plast-aid. We will be putting additional videos on soon.
I used this stuff on an outside of a joint on pvc that leaked on my hot tub and worked like a charm What is the shelf life for this ..I would recommend little bit bigger hardner bottle
Plast-aid can be applied to a wet surface, but it is best and easier if the area is dry. The water can act as a barrier between Plast-aid and the part. With an active drip, you may get a small amount of water trapped between Plast-aid and the part. If Plast-aid is not able to contact the surface because of the water, you won't achieve 100% bonding - which may still work fine even with less than 100% bonding. Plast-aid will try to push the water away if it is able. So if you can not drain the spa, apply Plast-aid at an angle, not straight on. When you consider that we are surrounded by air, as you apply Plast-aid, the air moves out of the way. Similarly, Plast-aid will try to move the water out of the way as it has a much stronger affinity to become in contact with the PVC compared to air or water. If you chose to apply Plast-aid while the part is wet, mix up a very small amount and use that to try to stop the leak when Plast-aid's consistency is a wet putty. Dry the area best you can with a paper towel or rag. Immediately press or hold Plast-aid in place over the leaking area until it cures and check for leaking. If dry, then apply a second - more substantial layer as shown in the video to reinforce the repair. Plast-aid can be applied over itself. So you can try the small patch several times if necessary to stop the leak before applying the larger layer. Plast-aid has successfully been applied while completely underwater, keeping these issues in mind to try to keep from trapping water between Plast-aid and the part. Hope you find that helpful and thanks for the question. Please do not hesitate to contact us again with any questions or comments. Best regards!
Just to follow up I did drain the tub but being responsible, green, in a drought area, and having recently cleaned/refilled the tub I saved as much water as possible using every bucket, cooler, whatever possible. I applied a wet mix to the joint just as it was mixed and then I made another batch and re-coated it because the first just filled around the joint, this was coming off the outlet of the 2nd pump where the hard PVC meets the flex PVC, amazing product, I let it sit 1 hour, refilled, it's been several days and no issues, I can see how Plastaid is stronger than the PVC. Thanks
I have always wanted to make my own spray bottle. For use of low rated Bear Spray. I just can't find all the parts needed to do so. But 2 end caps and you got yourself a bottle essentially.
Love your product! Helped saved a leak with a irrigation PVC pipe leak. I was wondering what other cups or medium can we use to mix the paste if I lose the cup it came with? Can I use a regular medicine measuring cup?
I used PA to repair a hot tub leak. However, I'm concerned that I did not get a thick enough layer. The leaky joint is in a difficult to reach position, and I had to apply PA with my fingers reaching into an area that I could not see well. Would it be a good idea to apply another layer?
Would sanding the work area before application help? I have a slow drip in a shower drain trap so while it is not high pressure there is still some pressure from the weight of the water as the trap fills. I am trying to decide between this and a standard primer/cement combo.
I have a vertical PVC pipe where a joint is leaky. I can't take the pipe off, so my only option is to try to apply a putty (or something like your product) to the vertical pipe. The liquid seems pretty runny before it starts hardening a bit, and my understanding is it needs to be applied while runny. Is this feasible on a vertical surface, or am I just going to make a big mess?
It strikes me that it might be possible to create some kind of dam around a verticle pipe (using duct tape formed into an open-topped cone shape wrapped around your pipe perhaps) in order to allow the liquid to pool as it sets and prevent runoff - this probably won't result in the prettiest repair, but it might work ...
Does carbonic acid affect plast-aid? I knicked the inside of a pvc pipe when building a manifold that was going to be used for carbonated water. I just need to know if i can use plast-aid to patch the knicks. Is plast-aid safe for pipes that will be used for water consumption?
Thank you for your questions. Plast-aid is an acrylic (PMMA) based thermoplastic material. The chemical resistance is dependent in part at what temperature you intend to use it. There are various chemical compatibility charts published on the internet that you can refer to for different chemicals. One of the charts I just referred to indicates acrylic (PMMA) has a rating in this chart as "A = Excellent" chemical resistance to carbonated water at 20 deg C (68 deg F) and a "C = Fair - Moderate Effect, not recommended" at 50 deg C (122 deg F). Your second question: Plast-aid (after its mixed and in a final cured state) is safely used on pipes intended for water consumption. Hope that helps.
Seems perfect for my leak issue because the PVC goes into the cement so I can't cut out the leak and replace the PVC easily. I need to fill the hole my weedeater cut into it. I assume this isn't usable for PVC leaks routing potable water however?
Thank you for your question. The pipe does not have to be revolved at all in order for Plast-aid to chemically fuse to the surface. Plast-aid starts out very wet and drippy when it is first applied. Turning the pipe tends to help manage the spreading/dripping effect while Plast-aid is thickening. You can apply Plast-aid to a part that is not moving, but it may be helpful to use a "tool" such as the mix-stick to keep the "runnyness" under control as Plast-aid thickens and ultimately hardens. Always mix Plast-aid so the initial consistency is wet and drippy - much like pancake batter. When you want Plast-aid to chemically fuse to a part, always apply Plast-aid when the consistency is wet and drippy - shortly after you mix it. If you wait to apply it when Plast-aid is more clay or putty like, most of the liquid has already become chemically satisfied as it chemically fuses to itself and little is left to fuse to your part. Hope that helps.
Sorry for the late reply! Dripping slightly is fine. If the pressure from the leak is high enough that Plast-aid keeps getting pushed away, you may have to drain enough water to lessen the pressure. It should be fine though. You may just need to work it as Plast-aid is thickening to make sure you are not developing a water pocket.
This is not convenient on a stationary pipe if it needs to be rotated constantly,I see this a lot on a sales pitch and doesn’t represent normal repairs,bench repairs is nothing more than selling a product.
Sweet lord it took long enough to o keep moving the product around, clean the stir stick, mix cup, and clean up the work area. Could have done a time lapse or just stop filming for 15 minutes.
Amazing product.. I used this stuff on steel water pipes during the Texas freeze and it's still holding.. !
Great video. Thanks!
For anybody planning on using this product - USE IN A VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA!! This stuff is brutal on the "brain cells".
The other thing I noticed is that I first mixed it in a small PolyStyrene cup - melted the cup in 20s!! Don't do that.
I think the package says you have about 10min working time, but I'd use it like he's demonstrated here in the video - much sooner.
I'm using the product to fix a leak in my hot tub piping. Hopefully it works!
Did it work?
Yes! Very well...and still holding over 7 months later.
Great video. Very informative. We supply it here in Canada. Hot tub parts depot. The customers have 100% success with this product.
Hi Hot Tub Parts Depot - Thank you for your comments. So pleased to hear about your customers being helped with Plast-aid. We will be putting additional videos on soon.
I used this stuff on an outside of a joint on pvc that leaked on my hot tub and worked like a charm
What is the shelf life for this ..I would recommend little bit bigger hardner bottle
Plast-aid can be applied to a wet surface, but it is best and easier if the area is dry. The water can act as a barrier between Plast-aid and the part. With an active drip, you may get a small amount of water trapped between Plast-aid and the part. If Plast-aid is not able to contact the surface because of the water, you won't achieve 100% bonding - which may still work fine even with less than 100% bonding. Plast-aid will try to push the water away if it is able. So if you can not drain the spa, apply Plast-aid at an angle, not straight on. When you consider that we are surrounded by air, as you apply Plast-aid, the air moves out of the way. Similarly, Plast-aid will try to move the water out of the way as it has a much stronger affinity to become in contact with the PVC compared to air or water. If you chose to apply Plast-aid while the part is wet, mix up a very small amount and use that to try to stop the leak when Plast-aid's consistency is a wet putty. Dry the area best you can with a paper towel or rag. Immediately press or hold Plast-aid in place over the leaking area until it cures and check for leaking. If dry, then apply a second - more substantial layer as shown in the video to reinforce the repair. Plast-aid can be applied over itself. So you can try the small patch several times if necessary to stop the leak before applying the larger layer. Plast-aid has successfully been applied while completely underwater, keeping these issues in mind to try to keep from trapping water between Plast-aid and the part. Hope you find that helpful and thanks for the question. Please do not hesitate to contact us again with any questions or comments. Best regards!
thanks
Just to follow up I did drain the tub but being responsible, green, in a drought area, and having recently cleaned/refilled the tub I saved as much water as possible using every bucket, cooler, whatever possible.
I applied a wet mix to the joint just as it was mixed and then I made another batch and re-coated it because the first just filled around the joint, this was coming off the outlet of the 2nd pump where the hard PVC meets the flex PVC, amazing product, I let it sit 1 hour, refilled, it's been several days and no issues, I can see how Plastaid is stronger than the PVC.
Thanks
I have always wanted to make my own spray bottle. For use of low rated Bear Spray. I just can't find all the parts needed to do so. But 2 end caps and you got yourself a bottle essentially.
fixed my PVC leak with this product and all is well so far its been 3 days. I will update in 6 months.. Location = Las Vegas, NV direct sun light...
jk hows it holding up?
How's it holding up?
Love your product! Helped saved a leak with a irrigation PVC pipe leak. I was wondering what other cups or medium can we use to mix the paste if I lose the cup it came with? Can I use a regular medicine measuring cup?
Woulda been nice to actually see where he went all the way through the pipe with the hacksaw
Looks good i will try it
Is there any solvent for GI pipe to prevent leakage from inside in case we don't know where the leakage is
Can any type of brush be used for application? Like maybe a natural bristle acid brush? Would the bristles melt?
I used PA to repair a hot tub leak. However, I'm concerned that I did not get a thick enough layer. The leaky joint is in a difficult to reach position, and I had to apply PA with my fingers reaching into an area that I could not see well. Would it be a good idea to apply another layer?
Can this be used to a flex hose attached to back of pool waterfall? I can turn pressure off until it cures?
Would sanding the work area before application help? I have a slow drip in a shower drain trap so while it is not high pressure there is still some pressure from the weight of the water as the trap fills. I am trying to decide between this and a standard primer/cement combo.
nice....but I cannot hold and rotate the pipe I am trying to fix the leak on, so kind of a poor example.
I have a vertical PVC pipe where a joint is leaky. I can't take the pipe off, so my only option is to try to apply a putty (or something like your product) to the vertical pipe. The liquid seems pretty runny before it starts hardening a bit, and my understanding is it needs to be applied while runny. Is this feasible on a vertical surface, or am I just going to make a big mess?
It strikes me that it might be possible to create some kind of dam around a verticle pipe (using duct tape formed into an open-topped cone shape wrapped around your pipe perhaps) in order to allow the liquid to pool as it sets and prevent runoff - this probably won't result in the prettiest repair, but it might work ...
Does carbonic acid affect plast-aid?
I knicked the inside of a pvc pipe when building a manifold that was going to be used for carbonated water. I just need to know if i can use plast-aid to patch the knicks.
Is plast-aid safe for pipes that will be used for water consumption?
Thank you for your questions. Plast-aid is an acrylic (PMMA) based thermoplastic material. The chemical resistance is dependent in part at what temperature you intend to use it. There are various chemical compatibility charts published on the internet that you can refer to for different chemicals. One of the charts I just referred to indicates acrylic (PMMA) has a rating in this chart as "A = Excellent" chemical resistance to carbonated water at 20 deg C (68 deg F) and a "C = Fair - Moderate Effect, not recommended" at 50 deg C (122 deg F). Your second question: Plast-aid (after its mixed and in a final cured state) is safely used on pipes intended for water consumption. Hope that helps.
Thank You
Seems perfect for my leak issue because the PVC goes into the cement so I can't cut out the leak and replace the PVC easily. I need to fill the hole my weedeater cut into it. I assume this isn't usable for PVC leaks routing potable water however?
So sorry for the very late reply! Plast-aid is acrylic based and is good for potable water.
How often can you pick up and revolve the leaking pipe? I want something to use on a pvc drain running close (1-2 inch gap) to a wall and floor.
Thank you for your question. The pipe does not have to be revolved at all in order for Plast-aid to chemically fuse to the surface. Plast-aid starts out very wet and drippy when it is first applied. Turning the pipe tends to help manage the spreading/dripping effect while Plast-aid is thickening. You can apply Plast-aid to a part that is not moving, but it may be helpful to use a "tool" such as the mix-stick to keep the "runnyness" under control as Plast-aid thickens and ultimately hardens. Always mix Plast-aid so the initial consistency is wet and drippy - much like pancake batter. When you want Plast-aid to chemically fuse to a part, always apply Plast-aid when the consistency is wet and drippy - shortly after you mix it. If you wait to apply it when Plast-aid is more clay or putty like, most of the liquid has already become chemically satisfied as it chemically fuses to itself and little is left to fuse to your part. Hope that helps.
Will this work on a spa joint that is dripping slightly, about a drip every 30sec-1min, or should it be drained?
Sorry for the late reply! Dripping slightly is fine. If the pressure from the leak is high enough that Plast-aid keeps getting pushed away, you may have to drain enough water to lessen the pressure. It should be fine though. You may just need to work it as Plast-aid is thickening to make sure you are not developing a water pocket.
-why demo this the way you aren't going to be able to use it.
I have a pond filter made from polyethylene will your product work to make a repair on the unit. It's a Cetus Sieve if your familiar. Thanks
Hi Jim - Plast-aid will not chemically fuse to polyethylene. That is what the mix cup is made of so it can be reused.
PlastaidCorporation Awesome!
nice
Does plast-aid attach to the pvc glue that has oozed out of joint?
Hi Mike - Plast-aid will chemically bond to PVC glue as long as it has completely dried.
This is not convenient on a stationary pipe if it needs to be rotated constantly,I see this a lot on a sales pitch and doesn’t represent normal repairs,bench repairs is nothing more than selling a product.
J
Sweet lord it took long enough to o keep moving the product around, clean the stir stick, mix cup, and clean up the work area. Could have done a time lapse or just stop filming for 15 minutes.
That is what CZcams has fast forward for