Super excited for this! I've got less than 2k miles on my '24 LZ0 and just pre-ordered! I've been eagerly anticipating this release. I think PPE is working on one also, but your explanation is wonderful, and I found your fuel saver kit to be of excellent high quality. I can't wait to add another VSE product to my system! Thank you guys for taking the time to develop this and telling us about all of the relevent information related to it. There's no doubt that you really care about your work and put your heart and soul into your products.
Very cool product and nice presentation. I would recommend changing from the sight glass on the product though, I know many companies like using those and they have been used on air compressor pumps for like ever but they are not that great over time. They are too small and hard to read or see through many times. Just have the catch can with the long hydraulic oil level indicator or even better just make the main portion of the can out of a strong clear plastic so you can see through the whole thing. Way more user friendly for the customer.
Nice new product. I am going to definitely be looking to add to my new 24 Sierra. And to think I only thought Harleys needed a catch can. Got one on it too.
Great video. I'll have to get one for my new ZR2 with the LZ0. At how many miles would you say you would need to clean out the heat exchanger if you dont have a catch can?? 15k? 20k?
This may have been answered already. But, I've got about 1000 miles on my 2024 Sierra(LZ0). With that kind of mileage, would it be at all worth pulling the exchanger and clean while installing the catch can? Or with that kind of mileage is it basically negligible? Thank ya!
Do you have a video instructions for people like me that have never worked on a truck. I did put on catch can on my last truck a Eco 150. But, the video helped a ton.
Your products are great! I have pre-ordered. What measures should I take prior to installation to clean existing components? My LZO has 30K + miles. Thank you.
Very cool and Tks . Two questions. 1, when is it available and 2. Quick question on the turbo. I’m new to diesels and have the LZ0. When you run the engine for a long time, I was told to let the truck idle for a minute or two to make sure the turbo cools down so the oil won’t cook in there. Does this engine still circulate oil (turbo saver style) or coolant after you shut down the engine or should I continue to let her idle to bring down the temps. If so how long. Many Tks.
Its a ball bearing turbocharger and these trucks have auto start / stop from OEM. The turbo is ok if you don't let it idle - although it is much better on it if it is allowed to idle for 5-10 seconds prior to turning it off - great question!
@@runvse Tks. By the way I shut off the auto stop start. I don’t think it’s good for the life of the turbo or the engine to go on and off to safe a couple pennies of diesel E.
What precautions have you taken to deal with this icing up in cold weather? These things can be a nightmare in northern states that routinely have below zero temps. I had a catch can that would ice up to the point it blocked all flow. Had to drain it once a week.
Tbh if you live in canada you either got 2 option. Rock the catch can 6 month a year and take it off in the winter or dont buy it. Otherwise is a pain in the but.
Question, i didn’t quite understand in the video about the heat exchanger being clean or something about those lines. With the catch can installed, should the heat exchanger supposedly clean itself off right? Because it’s now getting cleaner air, am I correct?
Correct the heat exchanger will stay cleaner since the CCV will now have the oil drop out of the air stream and into the catch can prior to it being delivered to the turbo inlet (then the heat exchanger)
My 21 3.0 is north of 70k miles. The mileage has actually improved as the miles have gone up. The coolant control valve has and long crank has been the only issues. The long crank was fixed with a re-flash. I don’t feel there is anything to be gained here.
Great question. We tested them in -20F and below conditions right here in Nebraska this winter. The Venturi and baffling will keep it operating just like OEM
@@sierracatThat was the owner of the company responding. The oil /water will sit in the can until you drain it. When you start the truck you will have CCV around 100F rolling through the CCV and it will maintain the system over and over until you drain it. There really isn't a way water to build up and plug the system due to the baffling and the ventri. Even if it did it would lift the crossover relief between the supply and return hoses to prevent the system from having any issues
So I wonder if this problem is the root cause of the “reduced acceleration” warning message that displayed this weekend along with very loud fan noise? Engine coolant temp gage was reading normal. 2022 w/35k miles.
I had the same happen at about 44k miles. Dealer said it was the coolant control valve. Waiting for part as there are not many around. Am also wondering if this is the cause.
The heat exchanger should make it through the warranty period shouldn't it? Then it's increased parts/service sales for the dealership. GM, gotta love 'em!
No different than any other brand. Like Ford switching to oil pump belts on the 2.7 Ecoboost and 5.0 Coyote, and then purposely routing the belt behind the timing chain so you're paying for an oil pump belt service and and timing chain service in one go. You end up with an oil pump belt service that's more expensive to do than the rear belt on the 3.0 Dmax.
My 2021 Denali lasted 2750 miles. Engine leaked oil from the block. They never told me why, if cracks or improper castings. They just replaced the engine. By 5000 miles, the new engine would crank and never started again. Lemon Law got me all my money back but not worth the headaches!
Yeah why are concerned private inventors having to create aftermarket components to fix major design flaws? I just bought a 2010 Toyota Sequoia after a lifetime of Chevys always needing something four times a year.
Sorry, I was wondering why you wouldn’t just use a Mann ProVent 200 CCF? I can certainly appreciate the nice Billet machining, but trying to reinvent the wheel may not be worth it. Please correct me if your system is doing something different. I’ve used the Mann ProVent 200 Filter on my Japanese Diesel’s, and now my Porsche Cayenne Diesel with great success. Regardless a great explanation. 🇳🇿🇨🇦
We found it to increase crankcase pressure more than factory - and that is what we were try to avoid all together. The screen area seems to be too restrictive once it has any run time on it and to reseal this motor after it starts leaking from excessive crank case pressure it has to be pulled for a reseal.
This is the same hose material that actually lays on top of the motor and routes around to the back of the turbo. These are exposed to far less heat than that. Good question though !
When is lz0 tuning going to be available, or at least trans tuning, I hate how it hunts for gears when towing, I'd like to lock in a gear like Fords and downshift or upshift as needed
@karlschauff7989 Yes, correct, but you can't lock it in gear like you can in a ford. For example, let's say I'm towing a trailer and the truck is hunting between gears, even though lzo has enough torque not to hunt for gears, in a ford you can manually put it in your desired gear and it will not upshift or downshift no matter what unless you come to a stop.
Am also new to this your video is awsome can dumb it down how this will save my oil consumption problem so i can explain this to my wife damn thats alot of money but if it saves oil in the long run then yeah sign me up thanks in advance
we found it far to restrictive and it ended up increasing crank case pressure far to much over factory once there is any run time in it. Plus it relives the CCV to the atmosphere if there is an issue which is technically a violation of CARB and us EPA regulations
Absolutely not. Both of our trucks were serviced with the catch cans on them and pointed out to the dealers directly. The Magnuson Moss warranty act would prevent warranty denial as a result of these being installed www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act
The module stays in place, just run the bolt out, run our bolt into the existing bracking and used the nut we supply to bolt the catch can in place. It takes about 30 min to install.
@@runvse it seems that the hoses and wiring harness would be a tight fit and would cause rubbing issue between the three, this leading to a hole in the or exposed wiring. Of course this won’t happen right away, but it seems possible to happen over time.
@@gasparsperformance9841the hoses come out an an angle and do not rub on anything. one you install it it is good for years if not decades with no maintenance other than draining on the oil change intervals
@@runvse my truck has a wiring harness that’s on top of the turbo and goes towards a module that sits on top of the battery. I see that the truck you showed in your video doesn’t have that wire harness or module. I’m not sure if this is something that was changed on the LZ0 or if that module pertains to trucks with certain features
It will not. It is connected in similar fashion to OEM. We are also protected by this act www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act
^ not sure about that. What happen when it freeze up in -30c during canadian winter and you show up to the dealer with broken s**t due to this. During cold weather this water vapor can condense and freeze in the catch can or AOS body as well as the hoses which run to and from it. If this happens you will typically pressurize the crankcase (depending on what freezes). Hopefully your dipstick, or a hose connection will be blown out to relieve the pressure, leaving you with an oily mess, but no real damage. However, you may not be so lucky. If the pressure does not release in this way, it will find the next easiest path - potentially blowing out your turbo seals or worse.
what? the factory is "Basically a heater hose.' I have had my vse CCV on my l5p for 150k, no issues with the "heater hose." Touch some grass, test for yourself, criticize your hypotheticals with real world proof.
@@clinth1636 you act like it’s ridiculous to question running a rubber hose 2 inches over a turbo that hits hundreds Fahrenheit. Stock hoses don’t sit right above it. And maybe I’d know more if I hadn’t been waiting for 3 months on my truck
@@BabyGators you're right you have it figured out. What is your solution ? I can't wait to hear this so I can take a childs advice on what I should change out my 300c rated pcv hoses to. You can add a 1200c insulator sleeve to it and really make it unnecessary. what about the plastic engine cover? wrap that too?
@@Nominale_ I guess that’s the alternative to camshaft bearing replacement. It’s actually not a bad design at all. Thanks for sharing this with me I’m a John Deere mechanic and one of my buddies working with me told me this. I have a 3.0 d max, so far good for me
Doesn’t GM know about this issue? If so, why do the considered it “not an issue”. I’ve seen ford mechanics say catch cans do nothing to help save the Ford blow by…. All of this is Government EPA heavy handed ness. These diesel’s have to be as clean as a gas engine yet they get significantly better mileage. The better mileage alone makes them cleaner than a gasoline engine due to 25-20% less fuel burnt.
Everything voids the warranty. Dont give em an excuse to void yours. If something happen to the motor they will 100% blame.it on the catch can saying it probably clogged up and bs like that.
The fact that you have to do these things to new vehicles (ecoboosts are the same) is...quite ridiculous to me. I appreciate your engineering and what you are doing, but I just can't get over the fact that these new trucks are designed/tested so poorly anymore. You shouldn't be doing this, the GM engineers should.
this is an ordinary oil dump) crankcase gas separator... where did the $350 price come from? I can take any tank, ban it under the hood, buy it for low-resistance slugs and all this will come out at $70... such a thing is worth me on hemi 6.1)
The water vapor doesn't flash off and if it really did then we wouldn't have oil / water vapor sitting inside of the heat exchanger that we pulled off our truck. The reason the water vapor doesn't just flash off is because you have the system under pressure while driving (boost pressure) The increase in pressure increasing the boiling point of the water (saturation temperature, and is part of basic thermodynamics and fluid hydraulics) As an example the typical turbo discharge temperatures of these trucks driving around under load is 200-250F at 18-25psig of boost. Saturation temperature of water at 20psig is 258.8F. This means that the water vapor leaving the turbo at say a max of 250F is 8 degrees subcooled so the water can't possibly flash at that point. You can look these values up right on the steam tables for saturation pressure. Further - the temperature drops as the charge airflow passes through the heat exchanger and typically exists around 120F under the conditions above. We know without looking at a steam table that the saturation temperature at sea level for water is 212F so at 120F the water can't possibly be flashing off since it is at a minimum 92F subcooled.
@@trumpiomost likely this is a fake account we are responding to - but research and understand basic steamtables and icenthalpic expansion through a heat exchanger - you will see what we are talking about and why there is an issue here. A heat exchanger with cast ends isn't more efficient - thermally more heat from the engine bay is conducted through the cast and warms the air inside the heat exchanger by a large margin. This is why, as an example the PPE heat exchanger has to be larger to overcome the thermal conductivity through the casting. OEM uses plastic because of low thermal conduction as well as cost of production.
basic steam table link www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiMp5i4-_OEAxV9FjQIHT4GDWsQFnoECBUQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.milwaukeevalve.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2Ftechnical-service-information%2FSteamTable.pdf&usg=AOvVaw28ooJgNqIA1q2QuuLkINlS&opi=89978449
@runvse Great explanation helped me to understand thank you. The only reason I questioned is in my line of work in gas compression if we have vapors in our oil it flashes off when we are around 210-230 degrees.
@@kilo2330 Correct - it all depends on saturation temperature. Water boils off at 212F at 14.6psia (0psig) but if we raise the pressure it raises the boil off temperature (saturation temperature) The outlet of the heat exchanger is vastly lower in temp which allows a fair amount of condensation from the oil vapor to come out of the mixture and enter the combustion chamber
@@David-yy7lb at 15k miles a year it would take 13 years before needing service. Plenty of chain driven systems have failures. The belt can be changed in a day and is designed for servicing. It’s a mountain out a molehill criticism.
or just leave the drain hose open and extend it down by the frame rail? why bother with draining it. then it just acts like a normal pcv removal kit like had been done on duramax trucks for years
So your upgrade removes 100% of the oil and gunk from the air ? Its activly cooled rifht becuse your not pulling it all out without condensing it somewhere and just like all catch cans they warm up and stop working. People and their clickbait titles let you know that a company is garbage. Hope this also fixes the wet belt timing that fails you into 20k long block job.
Maybe research how the CCV system actually works. Air flows through the CCV system and enters the catch can as a mixture of oil/water. They are both heavier than air. The higher density items settle in the bottom of the can. CCV at its highest enters around 120-130F which means water will still condense as the temperature of the can is lower than the temperature of the CCV - that's how condensation works - we didn't invent classic physics, but we do live by them.
Super excited for this! I've got less than 2k miles on my '24 LZ0 and just pre-ordered! I've been eagerly anticipating this release. I think PPE is working on one also, but your explanation is wonderful, and I found your fuel saver kit to be of excellent high quality. I can't wait to add another VSE product to my system! Thank you guys for taking the time to develop this and telling us about all of the relevent information related to it. There's no doubt that you really care about your work and put your heart and soul into your products.
No worries! We love making products for these trucks as well as many others !
@@runvse when is the catch can set up for my l5p being released? have ccv delete and I am waiting on the catch can
Very cool product and nice presentation. I would recommend changing from the sight glass on the product though, I know many companies like using those and they have been used on air compressor pumps for like ever but they are not that great over time. They are too small and hard to read or see through many times. Just have the catch can with the long hydraulic oil level indicator or even better just make the main portion of the can out of a strong clear plastic so you can see through the whole thing. Way more user friendly for the customer.
It looks like a must have.
This is awesome. Thanks guys. Hopefully we can order it to Canada when you’re ready to release it.
We ship worldwide - except to china where they just copy everything this country makes
@@runvse aka spelab lol
Will you do a how-to install video? Would be great if the removal and cleaning of the heat exchanger were included!
Nice simple solution! is this an issue on the 6.6L as well? I'm new to diesel, learning before I buy one.
Nice new product. I am going to definitely be looking to add to my new 24 Sierra. And to think I only thought Harleys needed a catch can. Got one on it too.
every vehicle with a PCV system should have one, the new low friction rings are causing more and more blowby, this is much needed
Great video. I'll have to get one for my new ZR2 with the LZ0. At how many miles would you say you would need to clean out the heat exchanger if you dont have a catch can?? 15k? 20k?
Live in Western Wisc and own 2023 3.0 Duramax. Love your videos. Where can I find a person/business to install them on my truck ?
This may have been answered already. But, I've got about 1000 miles on my 2024 Sierra(LZ0). With that kind of mileage, would it be at all worth pulling the exchanger and clean while installing the catch can? Or with that kind of mileage is it basically negligible? Thank ya!
There should be a video how to install for those who are not familiar with installing
Do you have a video instructions for people like me that have never worked on a truck. I did put on catch can on my last truck a Eco 150. But, the video helped a ton.
Great video has GM commented or has made change to their engine. I was going to purchase a 2024 Suburban with the Duramax 3.0 LZO, not now!
Why would that change your mind? That is pretty much a normal thing for most CCV/PCV systems. The 3.0 LZ0 is a great engine.
Your products are great! I have pre-ordered. What measures should I take prior to installation to clean existing components? My LZO has 30K + miles. Thank you.
With miles that low we recommend just bolting the catch can in place and then letting the heat and clean air clean the oil out
Very cool and Tks . Two questions. 1, when is it available and 2. Quick question on the turbo. I’m new to diesels and have the LZ0. When you run the engine for a long time, I was told to let the truck idle for a minute or two to make sure the turbo cools down so the oil won’t cook in there. Does this engine still circulate oil (turbo saver style) or coolant after you shut down the engine or should I continue to let her idle to bring down the temps. If so how long. Many Tks.
Its a ball bearing turbocharger and these trucks have auto start / stop from OEM. The turbo is ok if you don't let it idle - although it is much better on it if it is allowed to idle for 5-10 seconds prior to turning it off - great question!
@@runvse Tks. By the way I shut off the auto stop start. I don’t think it’s good for the life of the turbo or the engine to go on and off to safe a couple pennies of diesel
E.
@@hammer-rWe tune them out as well for permanent disable
How are the 2024 redesigned 3.0l doing?
there has been a change in the matrix.
Indeed - and there is alot more coming from us
What precautions have you taken to deal with this icing up in cold weather? These things can be a nightmare in northern states that routinely have below zero temps. I had a catch can that would ice up to the point it blocked all flow. Had to drain it once a week.
The venturi seems to be the solution for that potential problem, along with draining the can at proper intervals for your use.
Tbh if you live in canada you either got 2 option. Rock the catch can 6 month a year and take it off in the winter or dont buy it. Otherwise is a pain in the but.
Nice!
Question, i didn’t quite understand in the video about the heat exchanger being clean or something about those lines. With the catch can installed, should the heat exchanger supposedly clean itself off right? Because it’s now getting cleaner air, am I correct?
Correct the heat exchanger will stay cleaner since the CCV will now have the oil drop out of the air stream and into the catch can prior to it being delivered to the turbo inlet (then the heat exchanger)
When will it come out this looks like a must have
They are already being machined! Check us out!
My 21 3.0 is north of 70k miles. The mileage has actually improved as the miles have gone up. The coolant control valve has and long crank has been the only issues. The long crank was fixed with a re-flash. I don’t feel there is anything to be gained here.
Did you watch the video before you decided there was nothing to be gained here??
Post a link to order when they're shipping, ready to order.
Here is the link - shipping will start in a couple weeks !
runvse.com/2020-2024-vse-lm2-lz0-ccv-catch-can/
@@runvse pre-ordered!
How does this thing work/perform in sub zero weather in the winter..? Has it been thoroughly tested in these conditions...?
Great question. We tested them in -20F and below conditions right here in Nebraska this winter. The Venturi and baffling will keep it operating just like OEM
Is this VSE responding? How was the moisture/water/ice build up in the CC in these conditions then?? Tx
@@sierracatThat was the owner of the company responding. The oil /water will sit in the can until you drain it. When you start the truck you will have CCV around 100F rolling through the CCV and it will maintain the system over and over until you drain it. There really isn't a way water to build up and plug the system due to the baffling and the ventri. Even if it did it would lift the crossover relief between the supply and return hoses to prevent the system from having any issues
Will it only be available in raw aluminum or will it be available in black?
We will eventually offer them in a satin black!
So I wonder if this problem is the root cause of the “reduced acceleration” warning message that displayed this weekend along with very loud fan noise? Engine coolant temp gage was reading normal. 2022 w/35k miles.
I had the same happen at about 44k miles. Dealer said it was the coolant control valve. Waiting for part as there are not many around. Am also wondering if this is the cause.
Is the heat exchange issue a reason these motors go thru a lot of oil?
Is the release date still on time? Pre ordered mine and hoping it ships Monday 🤞🏼
👍👍
The heat exchanger should make it through the warranty period shouldn't it? Then it's increased parts/service sales for the dealership. GM, gotta love 'em!
No different than any other brand. Like Ford switching to oil pump belts on the 2.7 Ecoboost and 5.0 Coyote, and then purposely routing the belt behind the timing chain so you're paying for an oil pump belt service and and timing chain service in one go. You end up with an oil pump belt service that's more expensive to do than the rear belt on the 3.0 Dmax.
Do you have anything for 2nd gen ecodiesel?
My 2021 Denali lasted 2750 miles. Engine leaked oil from the block. They never told me why, if cracks or improper castings. They just replaced the engine. By 5000 miles, the new engine would crank and never started again. Lemon Law got me all my money back but not worth the headaches!
Yeah why are concerned private inventors having to create aftermarket components to fix major design flaws? I just bought a 2010 Toyota Sequoia after a lifetime of Chevys always needing something four times a year.
Does this fault also apply to the 6.6?
Why aluminum and not some form of plastic? Would it not cut the cost?
If they are supposed to run with a couple inches of vacuum why do they all have blowby?
Sorry, I was wondering why you wouldn’t just use a Mann ProVent 200 CCF?
I can certainly appreciate the nice Billet machining, but trying to reinvent the wheel may not be worth it.
Please correct me if your system is doing something different.
I’ve used the Mann ProVent 200 Filter on my Japanese Diesel’s, and now my Porsche Cayenne Diesel with great success.
Regardless a great explanation.
🇳🇿🇨🇦
We found it to increase crankcase pressure more than factory - and that is what we were try to avoid all together. The screen area seems to be too restrictive once it has any run time on it and to reseal this motor after it starts leaking from excessive crank case pressure it has to be pulled for a reseal.
Will thermal sleeve be included for the hoses being close to the turbo?
This is the same hose material that actually lays on top of the motor and routes around to the back of the turbo. These are exposed to far less heat than that. Good question though !
Will this void any warranty?
Will your kit work with the PPE heat exchanger intercooler?
Yes it will. The PPE intercooler doesn't have any connection points with the CCV system
could this be causing oil to go into coolant reservoir
When is lz0 tuning going to be available, or at least trans tuning, I hate how it hunts for gears when towing, I'd like to lock in a gear like Fords and downshift or upshift as needed
GM trucks let you select which gear you want to be in.
@karlschauff7989 Yes, correct, but you can't lock it in gear like you can in a ford. For example, let's say I'm towing a trailer and the truck is hunting between gears, even though lzo has enough torque not to hunt for gears, in a ford you can manually put it in your desired gear and it will not upshift or downshift no matter what unless you come to a stop.
Can you put it in L and use paddle shifters? Or does it still shift automatically? Also not sure what L stands for its def not low? @fxnytroxtxFPP
Am also new to this your video is awsome can dumb it down how this will save my oil consumption problem so i can explain this to my wife damn thats alot of money but if it saves oil in the long run then yeah sign me up thanks in advance
I love the elevator music
Hi, is there a reason you don't use something with a filter in it like a mann pro-vent?
The baffling and Venturi keep the oil and water mix in the can without adding an additional filter
we found it far to restrictive and it ended up increasing crank case pressure far to much over factory once there is any run time in it. Plus it relives the CCV to the atmosphere if there is an issue which is technically a violation of CARB and us EPA regulations
Will this void the warranty?
Absolutely not. Both of our trucks were serviced with the catch cans on them and pointed out to the dealers directly. The Magnuson Moss warranty act would prevent warranty denial as a result of these being installed
www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act
The part that 'cracks me up' is that folks continue to fall for the GM Scam!
Where did you relocate the module that sits on top of the battery?
The module stays in place, just run the bolt out, run our bolt into the existing bracking and used the nut we supply to bolt the catch can in place. It takes about 30 min to install.
@@runvse it seems that the hoses and wiring harness would be a tight fit and would cause rubbing issue between the three, this leading to a hole in the or exposed wiring. Of course this won’t happen right away, but it seems possible to happen over time.
@@gasparsperformance9841the hoses come out an an angle and do not rub on anything. one you install it it is good for years if not decades with no maintenance other than draining on the oil change intervals
@@runvse my truck has a wiring harness that’s on top of the turbo and goes towards a module that sits on top of the battery. I see that the truck you showed in your video doesn’t have that wire harness or module. I’m not sure if this is something that was changed on the LZ0 or if that module pertains to trucks with certain features
The design is nice, but I feel like there could have been a more economical way to build this rather than complete billet assembly.
When we gonna preorder?
It's open now
runvse.com/2020-2024-vse-lm2-lz0-ccv-catch-can/
I take it this would completely void your warranty?
I saw them reply down lower, that no it wouldn't because nothing that could go wrong would come back to point to this..
It will not. It is connected in similar fashion to OEM. We are also protected by this act
www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act
^ not sure about that. What happen when it freeze up in -30c during canadian winter and you show up to the dealer with broken s**t due to this. During cold weather this water vapor can condense and freeze in the catch can or AOS body as well as the hoses which run to and from it. If this happens you will typically pressurize the crankcase (depending on what freezes). Hopefully your dipstick, or a hose connection will be blown out to relieve the pressure, leaving you with an oily mess, but no real damage. However, you may not be so lucky. If the pressure does not release in this way, it will find the next easiest path - potentially blowing out your turbo seals or worse.
Hype.
For the amount that these trucks are why should we have to spend and time to make it work like it is supposed to
Anything made by man will have flaw
I wonder how the heat from the turbo will affect the return hose. Seems like a ton of heat for basically a heater hose.
what? the factory is "Basically a heater hose.' I have had my vse CCV on my l5p for 150k, no issues with the "heater hose."
Touch some grass, test for yourself, criticize your hypotheticals with real world proof.
@@clinth1636 you act like it’s ridiculous to question running a rubber hose 2 inches over a turbo that hits hundreds Fahrenheit. Stock hoses don’t sit right above it. And maybe I’d know more if I hadn’t been waiting for 3 months on my truck
@@BabyGators it is ridiculous to ask. stock DOES sit right above it though.
@@clinth1636 it doesn’t on a 3.0, genius
@@BabyGators you're right you have it figured out. What is your solution ? I can't wait to hear this so I can take a childs advice on what I should change out my 300c rated pcv hoses to. You can add a 1200c insulator sleeve to it and really make it unnecessary. what about the plastic engine cover? wrap that too?
The largest fault in this whole truck is it was built by general garbage
What is the Heat Exchangers function? Do we even need it?
It’s a water-air intercooler. He says heat exchanger but yes it is needed otherwise you could have pre-detonation
Another bad design is the lack of replaceable bearings in the head for the overhead camshaft
Incorrect, you can replace the entire camshaft girdle without removing the head. It is a much easier and faster repair
@@Nominale_ I guess that’s the alternative to camshaft bearing replacement. It’s actually not a bad design at all. Thanks for sharing this with me
I’m a John Deere mechanic and one of my buddies working with me told me this. I have a 3.0 d max, so far good for me
will it come in different colors?
It will come in satin black eventually
Doesn’t GM know about this issue? If so, why do the considered it “not an issue”. I’ve seen ford mechanics say catch cans do nothing to help save the Ford blow by….
All of this is Government EPA heavy handed ness. These diesel’s have to be as clean as a gas engine yet they get significantly better mileage. The better mileage alone makes them cleaner than a gasoline engine due to 25-20% less fuel burnt.
I’ve had the charge air cooler replaced twice on my 2021. Once at 40 000 km and then at 101000 km. Wonder if this has anything to with it.
It could have if the charge air cooler gets full of oil and begins setting Pcodes. It unlikely to damage the actual cooler itself though
Did you say 15oz of oil?
We ended up getting around 14 OZ of oil after we let it drain for a few hours into that container
I don’t see enough baffles in that catch can for it to be effective
During testing it will keep the return hose going back to the turbo nearly oil free. 2 baffle sets and a small venturi keep the system very clean.
Info where to buy
runvse.com/2020-2024-vse-lm2-lz0-ccv-catch-can/
Does this void the warranty?
Everything voids the warranty. Dont give em an excuse to void yours. If something happen to the motor they will 100% blame.it on the catch can saying it probably clogged up and bs like that.
The fact that you have to do these things to new vehicles (ecoboosts are the same) is...quite ridiculous to me. I appreciate your engineering and what you are doing, but I just can't get over the fact that these new trucks are designed/tested so poorly anymore. You shouldn't be doing this, the GM engineers should.
Exactly. Just bought my first Toyota. 2010 Sequoia with 150k miles. Amazing piece of engineering. Was a lifetime chevy guy.
this is an ordinary oil dump) crankcase gas separator... where did the $350 price come from? I can take any tank, ban it under the hood, buy it for low-resistance slugs and all this will come out at $70... such a thing is worth me on hemi 6.1)
Then make your own from similar materials and post it for sale. Make sure it doesn't increase crank case pressure
5 year 60k power train warranty. It would be easier to just bring your truck in and let the mechanics fix your issue.
I think I dodged a bullet not getting my wife the Yukon she wanted. 68k for a truck that was designed to self destruct
Wouldn't the water vapor flash off?
The water vapor doesn't flash off and if it really did then we wouldn't have oil / water vapor sitting inside of the heat exchanger that we pulled off our truck. The reason the water vapor doesn't just flash off is because you have the system under pressure while driving (boost pressure) The increase in pressure increasing the boiling point of the water (saturation temperature, and is part of basic thermodynamics and fluid hydraulics) As an example the typical turbo discharge temperatures of these trucks driving around under load is 200-250F at 18-25psig of boost. Saturation temperature of water at 20psig is 258.8F. This means that the water vapor leaving the turbo at say a max of 250F is 8 degrees subcooled so the water can't possibly flash at that point. You can look these values up right on the steam tables for saturation pressure. Further - the temperature drops as the charge airflow passes through the heat exchanger and typically exists around 120F under the conditions above. We know without looking at a steam table that the saturation temperature at sea level for water is 212F so at 120F the water can't possibly be flashing off since it is at a minimum 92F subcooled.
@@trumpiomost likely this is a fake account we are responding to - but research and understand basic steamtables and icenthalpic expansion through a heat exchanger - you will see what we are talking about and why there is an issue here. A heat exchanger with cast ends isn't more efficient - thermally more heat from the engine bay is conducted through the cast and warms the air inside the heat exchanger by a large margin. This is why, as an example the PPE heat exchanger has to be larger to overcome the thermal conductivity through the casting. OEM uses plastic because of low thermal conduction as well as cost of production.
basic steam table link
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiMp5i4-_OEAxV9FjQIHT4GDWsQFnoECBUQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.milwaukeevalve.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2Ftechnical-service-information%2FSteamTable.pdf&usg=AOvVaw28ooJgNqIA1q2QuuLkINlS&opi=89978449
@runvse Great explanation helped me to understand thank you. The only reason I questioned is in my line of work in gas compression if we have vapors in our oil it flashes off when we are around 210-230 degrees.
@@kilo2330 Correct - it all depends on saturation temperature. Water boils off at 212F at 14.6psia (0psig) but if we raise the pressure it raises the boil off temperature (saturation temperature) The outlet of the heat exchanger is vastly lower in temp which allows a fair amount of condensation from the oil vapor to come out of the mixture and enter the combustion chamber
The largest fault in the 3.0 is the belt driven oil pump
It has a 200k mile service interval.
@@MendicantBias1
Well the crankshaft driven oil pump like on the 6.6 duramax has an unlimited service interval
@@David-yy7lb at 15k miles a year it would take 13 years before needing service. Plenty of chain driven systems have failures. The belt can be changed in a day and is designed for servicing. It’s a mountain out a molehill criticism.
Came here to say this
@@MendicantBias1I put 40k a year on a truck
WHEN CAN I GET ONE FOR MY CUMMINGS?!?!?!?
BETTER BE MADE IN AMERICA TO NOT SUM COMMISTS CRAP GOBBLESS
What’s a Cummings?
@@Lawnfella BEST DERG GONE DIESEL ENGINE EVER MADE **BRO**
@@SteveBassenIt is - you can see right on our channel and even come right to our facility and watch us make all the stuff we sell!
@@Dave88LXnever heard of a Cummings
or just leave the drain hose open and extend it down by the frame rail? why bother with draining it. then it just acts like a normal pcv removal kit like had been done on duramax trucks for years
Because there is a crank case pressure sensor that will trip right away and set a P04DB code. It monitors crankcase vacuum
It will trip the CCV pressure switch nearly immediately.
That's why I have the LZO Which is the best Duramax 3.0...LM2/LMO Is trash....
It’s a GM. What did you expect?
So your upgrade removes 100% of the oil and gunk from the air ? Its activly cooled rifht becuse your not pulling it all out without condensing it somewhere and just like all catch cans they warm up and stop working. People and their clickbait titles let you know that a company is garbage. Hope this also fixes the wet belt timing that fails you into 20k long block job.
Maybe research how the CCV system actually works. Air flows through the CCV system and enters the catch can as a mixture of oil/water. They are both heavier than air. The higher density items settle in the bottom of the can. CCV at its highest enters around 120-130F which means water will still condense as the temperature of the can is lower than the temperature of the CCV - that's how condensation works - we didn't invent classic physics, but we do live by them.
Those 3.0 have bigger problems than that.
A motor that needs a ton of upgrades to be reliable… yawn
thank the tree hugging hippies for that. Oil came from the ground, This is all to prevent that at the cost of your engine.
Junk trucks