FanRc - Build Video Part 2
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Bit of a longish Part 2, there is much to talk bout. I found this quite hard even though the Kit itself is quite easy. No instructions as i keep saying. If it came ARTR as a roller (almost ready to run) as it stands it's almost a rolling chassis. I'd be interested in what others think. I have released this video earlier so it may help other building one themselves, but I am all ears to those who know :o)
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
I'm following the instructions for the 6002 RC10 Worlds Car Kit. It is all going together as it should. The quality of this kit is top class.
@@user-tx2pe4cm6w you’ll have no issues following the correct instructions 🤘
Are you going to race this?
The website here in the states i ordered from has been great. I haven't started my build yet but after opening the box i contacted them with questions about a couple things i noticed right away. Every time i email with a question they respond. I'm really happy with them. I'm confident I'll get it all sorted out eventually with their support.
They also said they'd be getting more. I recieved mine in less than a week. Anyone interested in the website I'll gladly let them know. I don't want to just put it out there without the creators approval.
I can really appreciate the anxiety you must have been through building this kit without instructions. Why would a manufacturer do this? Its insaine.
As far as I know , and hoping , the rear wheels are from the b2 not the classic , as the rear shafts are the 3/16 sized ones not the original 1/4 ones , I have both sets of wheels , the classic and the b2 from jcracing , so at least you have confirmed the front wheels are original fits , as for the motor guard , I think you have to have all the other gear box bolts loose , then add the 2 rear bolts , then tighten it all up so it pulls together
@@rexy_yee8431 I’ll try that with the guard and yes you are correct about the rear wheels
Ordered some appropriate ones now
Good info to have right there. I was wondering what source I had for some of the things I've been repeating... haha
A couple of interesting videos, I was seriously considering getting one but having watched your videos I'm not sure now, when you take into account the extra cost of wheels and tyres, shock oil and diff /black grease, the kyosho jj ultima seems a better bet
it's a close call of a purchase or not to purchase. I have never built a RC10 "type chassis" yet, so it was an experience plus I am planning to use the car at my local track, once I finish spending more money :o)
@@hunterrider349 I will say the jj goes together like a hot knife thru butter , and is awesome , only reason I am going down the fan rc route is I don’t want to wreck the jj , and my cc isn’t really a race car
@@rexy_yee8431 that's the reason i was interested in getting the fan, I've got a 40th and don't want to ruin it by getting back into racing, i could feel the same way with the jj, decisions decisions
May be the worlds edition instructions are closer , as looking at fan rc’s bumf a lot of the parts are world parts
yes, I think that's a good call, almost finished mine as a roller,
Just checked the world’s institutions, they suggest you carefully bend the rear plate until it lines up , then it has 2 small washers between the metal
Not sure but I think originally the graphite chassis kit came with a supplement for the stealth transmission. So, any instructions from an rc10, 10T or GT with the stealth transmission should work as a supplement for the transmission part of this build. The original instructions probably include the Gen 1 tranny not the stealth. You can tell by quickly browsing the pics of the instructions. The trans case is different.
You also have the rear camber link in the wrong hole it should be further in (longer). Go with the rere worlds car instructors except the chassis it is what you need. No disrespect but your problems are build problems mostly not the kit. But it helps to be an rc10 nerd. I have Fan rc parts and they are great.
@@richardjohnston2217 camber link has now been changed , and everything pointing in the right direction
It’s coming together now and with no RC10 build experience it was hard and yes the worlds instructions would be better but you need to know this to get the correct build PDF, or they could have just included a link even in the kit
I mean how easy would it be to include the pdfs? Totally an oversight. Could you maybe take time in a separate short video explaining what you did vs. what is right with this linkage and setup? Remember I'm here to learn from your pain. Lol!
You are missing the outside cone washer on the rear driveshaft that sits behind the pin. JC racing do two different types of rc10 rear wheel. You have the ones for the original shafts. You need the rere size
@@richardjohnston2217 yes the blue cone washer
I have put them on now 👍
Wheels all sorted, well ordered anyway
Full disclosure I haven't seen part 3 yet but... word is the drive shafts are either from the B2 or like the B2 and the b2 ruims will work on this setup. This is probably an upgrade for 2 reasons. First, those drive shafts are newer tech so presumably better and those parts are probably easier to get. Did you add a link for the fonts you got as they seemed to work? The response I got was somewhat unclear. I think though if you get front rims that fit the original the included bearings will work but if you go with more modern rims you will need new bearings... any clarification on this or should I just watch part 3?
@@GCC13 front wheels from JC racing for a vintage RC10 will fit, remember AE cars used them small wheels bearings - the rears need to be from a B2 - 3/16 to fit. The RC10 (vintage) rear wheels from JC Racing won't fit this FanRC - PS the new rims have arrived so will be fitting these tonight🙏
Just finally finished this installment. Have to say thanks for being the pioneer for those of us tuned in. Like I said I just recieved my kit. Have only done an unboxing because I got it the day before I went on vacation for a week. So here I sit by the beach planning my every move from your experiences. I hesitate to comment every time I get 5 free min to watch a little bit more of your viideo because I'm sure by the end of the video you've figured it out.
I have an original and remember vividly building it when I was a teen. First thing I did after opening my fan kit was dig out the 75% of it I still have. It's seen better days for sure. My concern about the Fan kit is this... is the reproduction stealth tranny equal to the original? Are the diff balls at least high quality? I ordered the associated diff lube for my build. It's an easy buy. 5 bucks. Same goes for the diff rings. They any good? What about the gears? Are they going to last? And also the bearings. Are they high quality? In the original Associated kit all of these things were top quality and for the day ahead of its time. This kit has always been basic in it's brilliance I hope the new release proves to be worthy and these are my major concerns. I also don't like the steering mechanism main screws. The holes and screw size dont seam to match. Oh and my 13 tear old self is screaming at me right now to remember drilling into this graphite chassis is risky. The drill can catch on the fibers and really dig in, almost breaking the chassis. At least the original was that way. So be careful if drilling.
I'll cut myself short with these last thoughts. I'm 95% certain that the rear motor guard never matched up with the piece on the gearbox on the original and I never gave a damn. I think it was always that way. Maybe it helps rigidity to be connected but I never could tell. I hear you can bend it and then get creative with how you screw it together but I bet you'll give up when you realize it doesn't matter. Makes taking the gearbox off easier anyway. And watch the blocks that hold the rear A-arms. There are 2 pairs of holes. A short or long wheelbase setup effectively. Just be consistent and use the equivalent holes in the left and right side.
I look forward to your final build videos. Great work so far. I'd also love to see or hear about your impressions of it in competition. I'm thinking with modern electronics this thing will rip. Please be detailed with the electronics. This is where I'm truly lost. The modern rc era is foriegn to me. I'm just an old school rc10 guy that is thrilled for this opportunity to blast into the past. I do wish it was a ride I am taking with Associated but I've been waiting for this day for like 15 years.
to cover a few things, I did buy some ceramic bearings from Plaig Bearings in Australia, the Kit Bearings look and feel ok to me, I used ceramic just because I had already purchased them. Interestingly the ball diff balls are standard but you can buy hardened Nitrate hop ups I think? Diff grease will be fine, I used a competition grease from Schumacher Racing, the ball diff feels ok, and will run in nicely IMHO. Yes the electrics will be purchased soon, and I do a installation video leading up to a shake down run. Probably a lot of these on the interweb as we speak.
A arms all ok, I run this in short wheelbase for now
Planning on a shake down run at a local outdoor astro-turf track once this is completed on a practice evening - thank you for watch fella - it is very much appreciated and thank you for the advise you have given 🤟
Excellent to hear your impressions on those things. Your voyage into the unknown I find is the perfect study guide before I start my build. I'm looking forward to all the various videos upcoming. Thanks for the vids and thanks for taking the time to talk to the viewers.
@@GCC13 Thank you
Two questions then... first, would or does modern silicone diff fluid work in place of whatever the original spec was? If I remember correctly, it was paste like. I ordered some from Associated to use for my build, so I'll see when I get it. Still, if modern stuff works, it's usually better. Second question: Do I need to know the size of the diff balls to order ceramic ones, or is there a specific kit meant to be used in the stealth transmission or fan rc "stealth" transmission? I guess I should try to search that one before I ask. It may be an easy answer.
@@GCC13 Normal Diff grease works fine, I used Tamiya for now. Racing greases tend to be more expensive for the same outcome. The ceramic balls are on L and L's webpage, they are a specific size, 1/8" from memory