Extension Dining Table Build
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- čas přidán 18. 12. 2020
- This video documents my process for building a cherry extension dining table with self-storing leaves. This design is often referred to as a "Dutch" extension table.
The essence of the design is that the top "floats" on top of the the 2 leaves when they are in the closed position. The top has two dowels that fit in corresponding holes in the cross-rails to keep the top in place. It's a very simple design that allows the leaves to be pulled out and pushed back in with ease.
I have made this table in small versions for clients in NYC, San Francisco and Chicago and as large as 14 feet long for clients with larger space. This table is made with cherry, but I have made them in oak and walnut as well.
Check out my other video of the final piece with a detailed explanation of how it works at this link • Walkaround of Extensio...
Enjoy!
nicely done ... easy relaxing narrative to follow along with!
Thank you. I'm just getting started with videos so they will get better over time (I hope).
Very nice work.
Thank you Rod. More to come.
You should sell plans for this table. A lot of CZcamsrs make great money selling plans. I for one would buy them.
I appreciate the suggestion. I'll consider drawing up a set of plans in Fusion and/or Sketchup. Thanks!
@@GothamWoodworks did you ever get around to it? my father wants me to make a similar table mechanism and, plans are hard to find and I'm only in 2nd year of furniture college and have gotten nowhere near building something like this yet hahaha. I think he over estimates my current ability and knowledge.
@@IvanWizard-Karl I don't have plans but email me privately and I can provide you with something that can help.
@@GothamWoodworks just did, thanks so much!
I’d love the plans for this!
Wow. Would love to come by and see your process. Always amazes me.
Shoot me an email if you're in the area -- reach me through my website www.gothamwoodworks.com
@@GothamWoodworks Sounds good!
Hallo Kerry, nice work and video. Hope you will show us more furniture projects. Greetings from a German master carpenter who also works with Felder machines in his wood shop.
Hello Martin, thank you for the nice feedback. I will have more furniture project videos over the next few months. Felder makes quality machines for sure.
Where is the epoxy river?? I must have missed that! What a great video. Great craftsmanship and attention to detail. Wonderful job.
Haha, I’ve managed to avoid that trend.
What a beautiful piece of work any chance you have plans for these that could get ?
Love this table. I wanted to make my own table and was wondering if you have plans?
I don't have plans, but you can try searching the Fine Woodworking archives for the article featuring Tommy MacDonald making this table. An alternative is Tage Frid's book where he documents how to make this table.
Hello, this is a great and detailed video on making a “Dutch draw leaf dining table”. I have one question if you would be so kind to answer. Where do the draw leaf stops mount on the table? I am assuming they mount on the tapered rails. The reason I ask is that I have a similar table that about 24 years old, and all the stops are missing, and I would like to make replacements. Thanks in advance.
Correct, I glue stop blocks to the tapered rails. I over-extend the leaf by about a 1/2" and mark the placement of the stop on the rail and then glue on the stops. By over-extending, it allows you to pull the leaf out a little bit beyond where the top drops down so that the edges don't rub against each other. Once the top drops into position you just push the leaf slightly to snug up to the edge of the top.
@@GothamWoodworks
Hi, I was wondering if you would share the model name of the Barth clamping unit that you have in your shop. It looks fantastic!
Hello. It's a Barth Multipress RP4001. I purchased it from Rangate (www.rangate.com).
Can I buy plans for this table from you? Thanks,
I just had a client request a table like this. I think I have it figured out, I was just wondering how you calculated the dado size an the taper on the bottom of the leaf extension. I appreciate any help. Thank you. Great video!
I use 7/8" as the width of the dados/trenches in the aprons, and thus the thickness of the leaf rails is also 7/8" (If you use white oak or ash for the supports you can get away with 3/4") The thickness of the tabletop and leaves is 7/8" each, so when in the closed position, the combined thickness is 1 3/4" (7/8 top sitting atop 7/8 leaves). Therefore, the leaf rail blanks will be 1 3/4" (i.e., 7/8 x 2) wide x 7/8" thick. Length should be calculated as follows: 2 x width of leaf + width of cross support. So if you have an 18" wide leaf and a 3" wide cross support, the leaf rail should be at least 39".
Next comes the taper of the leaf support rails. What I do is place the leaf on a flat surface, then I take the support rail on edge and butt one end to the edge of the leaf. I then take a knife or sharp pencil and draw a line across the end of the rail where it meets the leaf (running my knife or pencil along the leaf to make a mark across the end of the rail) This establishes the beginning of the taper. Next, place the rail across the top of the leaf so that the end you just marked is flush along the edge of the leaf (either the outside or inside edge of the leaf, doesn't matter). Use your finger to make sure the end of the rail is flush with the edge of the leaf. Now, strike a line from the opposite edge of the leaf where it meets the rail. Use a square to extend the line around the rail. This establishes the other end of the taper. Now, lay the rail on its side, and using a straight edge, connect the line that bisects the front edge of the rail to the top edge of the second line. This establishes the taper. Mark the waste area and cut the taper on your bandsaw or table saw.
Important: when cutting the trenches in the aprons, make sure you offset them by at least the width of the rails (e.g., 7/8), otherwise the rails will hit each other when both leaves are pushed in. I usually come in 2" from either end of Apron "A", and at least 2 7/8" from either end of Apron "B" so the rails pass by each other when they are closed.
Hopefully this is clear.
@@GothamWoodworks thanks so much for the help
@Gotham Woodworks hey I'm sorry to bother you again. But I made a mock up of the leaf and cross piece before I cut into the actual table. And with the leaf fully extended its at a drastic upward angle. Do I have my taper wrong,? I don't understand how you get the leaf to sit flat.
@@marcustobolski9921 The angled side of the taper attaches to the underside of the leaf so the entire "straight" edge of the rail rides in the "trench". Send your email address to me and I'll provide a more detailed explanation. kerry@gothamwoodworks.com
@@GothamWoodworks Once you measure the rail taper using your edge marking method and cut it, do you then trim the rail length shorter so that it is flush with the apron when the leaf is in the closed postion (offset from the edge of the tabletop/leaf)? Or does this taper angle allow for adjustment and still end up with a flush tabletop when extended? Like shown at 13:14 in the video you are aligning the rail flush with the apron. Thank you!
The music is irritatable but thanks for the vid