How to Apply Sikaflex to Deck Seams 5 29 14
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- čas přidán 28. 05. 2014
- Yes, this video is long by CZcams standards, but we have been receiving calls, emails and texts asking us to shoot a video focusing on paying Sikaflex into deck seams the Snake Mountain Boatworks way.
Here it is. I hope it fills in the gaps, if you will excuse a terrible pun. - Krátké a kreslené filmy
ready to start my 1951 Chris craft Rivera. I will be needing all the help I can get .thanks soo much for your posts.
Great radio station in the background!
The rounded blade is a very good idea. Can't wait to try it out with a tea spoon as an alternative tomorrow.
Wow. Fabulous work.Thank you for sharing.
Thank you! Saving these old boats is our passion. If we can infect others, then share what we are learning, all is good!
Michael
Do you apply the sikaflex before or after you varnish?
i liked the background music, Master.
Thanks for the video, what kind of liquid did you use for clean the surface and the scraper when you are working with the sikaflex? I saw a plastic container in the video whe you put the scraper on the sikaflex.
Perhaps a naive question, but just wanted to confirm that the Sikaflex is always applied after all the varnishing is done, yes? I would not think one would varnish on top of Sikaflex, but could you please confirm this? Thanks. Boat looks great.
Not always. The Sikaflex can be applied after a sealing coat of varnish has been applied, and then varnished along with the rest of the hull.Your challenge: use a crystal clear varnish or the seams will take on a honey-colored hue.
At 1:15 you mention using 333 to keep the tool clean, what product is this?
It is Interlux Brushing Liquid 333, which is available from Jamestown Distributors. Here is the link: www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?freeText=interlux%20333&resultPref=all&page=GRID&history=
how do you clean out the old stuff?
Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing your time and talent! KANSAS
Thank you, Jack. We lost John couple to a sudden and totally unexpected health issue. He is still in my thoughts and heart today because he was truly a special man.
:Hello, Thanks to you guys for the videos on this topic. It inspired me to fabricate a "barrel-back tribute" of a sliding companion hatch on a vintage sailboat.. As with most things, the tape peeling is not as easy as it looks ;-). My gaps were wider - ~ .25 +- .375 wide. And with practice, and folding the tape back onto itself as I removed (sort of pulling it backwards,), finally could leave a decent line without tears in the sikaflex. So, how long do you let it set before removing the tape? There must be an art to letting it set long enough for cleaner tape removal, but not so long that any raised sikaflex stands... thoughts? 2/3rds finished, and can live with the result, but was initially a little rough going with lots of Razor edge cleanup on the first few lines .. Thanks again for motivating the project and for any insight.
Please ALWAYS remove the tape immediately, as John does here. We remove the tape from each seam as soon as the Sikaflex is in place. That is why John is starting from the center and working towards the gunwales.
Okay thanks, I did remove the tape quickly since that was how it looked from the video timing and soundtrack . I think that the extra width of my seams contributed to the challenges but it turned out okay dim the end . I'll email you a picture said you get credit for the inspiration . Thanks again !
@@stuartharshbarger2341 Thank you, Stuart. I look forward to seeing the photograph(s)!
I dream of working in such a shop or owning such a place. You are so fortunate
Thank you. Yes, I and my crew are living the dream!
Do you remove the old caulk/Sikaflex before you place polyurethaning on the wood
Absolutely ... watch this clip: czcams.com/video/WYFjRXT-QRA/video.html
Thanks for sharing, what type of materials did you use ?
We use white Sikaflex 295 UV for seams. If/when they must be yellow, we use mahogany Sikaflex, which we then paint before varnishing with Interlux Perfection.Here is the link to 295 UV: www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3514And Jamestown Distributors' description:Sika 295 UV is a fast curing, one-component, flexible, high performance polyurethane-based adhesive bonding polycarbonate and acrylic windows, or sealing open joints between glass, ceramics, fiberglass, metals, as well as many types of plastics and paints. This 1 part polyurethane sealant air cures to a durable elastomer. It is suitable for all types of organic (PC, PMMA) windowpanes. 295UV also provides superior UV and weathering resistance. Use with Sika primer 209.
You have some out of this world great looking boats there. If they were girls I would rate them as perfect 10'S
Might have helped the sound without the compressor and use a microphone.
Oh well. Ours is a working environment, and I cannot shut the entire shop down while shooting a video. I use a Flip HD with built-in microphone. Yes, it's low rent, but it works.Besides, the check I just did tells me that the sound track is quite audible and, save for the short interruption by the compressor, is easily heard and understood.I guess it just proves the cliché that no good deed goes unpunished!
How annoying that air leak is. Dub the video in the future.
Really, really annoying.
What? I can't hear U!
Seems you must schedule a trip to the audiologist! The sound track is loud and clear when the video runs on five different devices here.
Applying too much pressure will cause the sika to sag and cause a curved finish
Whatever that means. The blade bridges the channel so applying excessive pressure is physically impossible. However, this is a 2014 video shot before we had to end using Sikaflex 295 UV after Sika must have changed its formula and neither paint nor varnish would cure over it any longer.
@@snakemtboatworks
I noticed you're utilizing the rounded end of the tool, and I can observe the pressure you're exerting. While it effectively bridges the channel, it's resulting in a convex finish that may exacerbate sagging as it cures. It's worth noting that the industry standard is Sika 290DC Pro. Sika 295UV should primarily be reserved for joints on the side of the elements to safeguard against weathering. Typically, after applying the Sika but before it skins over, the excess material should be gently spread onto the deck's surface using a slightly flexible spatula angled at 60 degrees without applying any pressure.
Yep --- That's a special tool we fabricated four ourselves that is ever so slightly concave in cross-section. You can relax as we've used these tools hundreds and hundreds of times on hundreds and hundreds of decks and never once have we experienced a single sag.
That may be your industry standard, but it is not ours. The 290DC Pro simply does not flow well under application in our quite extensive experience.
Have a very nice day.@@YTviewer118
@@snakemtboatworks
Fair enough, let's disregard the manufacturers' predominant guidance on how yacht decks are typically installed, shall we?"
The customers will be happy to know this. Have a great weekend!
@@YTviewer118 I just checked, and even spoke with my contact at Jamestown Distributors, a huge retailer who does not even carry 291 DC PRO. Why? That stuff is designed for TEAK DECK SEAMS ONLY.
That assertion is confirmed by the single retailer Google returns: www.tradeinn.com/waveinn/en/sika-300ml-290-dc-pro-sealant/138945228/p?id_producte=16242295&country=us&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwwr6wBhBcEiwAfMEQs1mRFuRis5XXS98Yg5aQKNP3Z0whptf2XP1HChS1zfkWvTvVLDDs1hoCU3EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Read it and weep. It is a teak-specific product.