Most Amazing Gooseneck Hitch for OEM Puck Systems! Gen-Y Offset Hitch!
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2023
- GenY GoosePuck Offset Hitch Adapter
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I am a truck driver.
I have been a truck driver for over 40 years.
I have well into 3 and a half million miles.
Well pin Should be 1-2 inches in front of the rear axle.
So you have steering weight.
By moving the pin back you are taking away from the steering axle.
Which makes the front of the truck lighter than it should be.
That's How people get in Rick's.
Thank you
As an OTR driver, you also realize your dealing with significantly more weight on the pin. Max on a dually pickup with an RV should never exceed 4k lbs in most cases. OTR trucks, especially when bobtailing react far different to no weight and generally are asked to carry upwards of 15-25k lbs on the back. Position is far more critical.
JB, the T handle for the Ball bearings, pulls up the entire way and turns 90 degrees to help it drop in.
Next time, pull the T-bar all the way up, then rotate it 90° so it’s stays up. Then it’ll slide right into the hole.
You should get on a CAT scale with your dump trailer and test and see how much it affects weight distribution
I towed my 5th wheel 3,000 miles with it and it was awesome. So nice not worrying about turning in my short bed Ram 2500.
Did the gen y hitch help with some of that bouncing you can get on bridges and repetitive dips you get on bridges over a 5th wheel pin?
I have a ram shortbed 3500 and have been using this for the last 5 months and has been a game changer on being able to get away from a slider hitch and use the Reese goose box on my solitude. Can’t quite get a 90 degree turn but can get extremely close and in no situation has it not been enough clearance as long as using a little common sense
Good to know! thanks!
Thank you! That is exactly what I need. I have a Tommy lift that extends my bed and it really gets close to my trailer.
Now that's a nice looking hitch setup. I like that!
Love my Gen Y GoosePuck on my 2022 F350. Along with using my Goosebox.
Thanks. Glad someone made a
Solid solution
My gooseneck ball is centered on the axle. That's how I got the truck. When I mounted the 5th wheel rails, I moved it forward of center by about 2 inches. That way, more of the weight is dispersed over the whole truck instead of everything being on just the rear axle. Believe it or not, it handles better and I don't have a problem with clearance. 2003 Dodge dually. 36' camper.
I have this setup in my 2020 duramax ccsb and it works great.
On semis they make us move our axel back 4-5 inches in certain situations. Since you have the scales, can you scale your truck front and rear axel hooked up to your RV with the gooseneck in the original position. Then scale your set-up with the relocated gooseneck to see how they compare.
Problem solved thank you for showing off this product. I was struggling trying to fit a weather guard tool box and 50 gallon transfer tank in my 22’ 6.5 foot super duty bed. While still maintaining the ability to tow a gooseneck. Will be purchasing.
It's funny how there was so many complaints about chevrolet moving the fifth wheel location back towards the tailgate, and now, here we are...
I was looking for this comment haha
Nice review on the Gen Y offset hitch adapter!Maybe that Texas heat contributed to the expansion of that pin sliding in the hole.On building engines, we used to put wrist pins in the freezer so they would (push right in), that was on a 426 Hemi blown injected funny car application.Obviously couldn't do it in this application, maybe a little spray refrigerant would help.
I have to do the same thing with my 5th wheel -- wheel bearing seals -- impossible to tap in without leaving them overnight in the freezer and installing them immediately the next day -- which, of course, no tire store is ever gonna' do. But they'll happily leave them sitting loose on the spindle and charge ya' $250 for nuthin'. :(
My Grand Design came with a Zero Point Turn. The weight of the camper is directly over the axle and I have more than enough room at 90 deg. I also traded my 2500 Dodge for. F250 and I have 3" more clearance over the bead, a big win
I haVe been using one for months in my Ram 3500 standard bed. Love it. Zero issues so far. Much better cab clearance and tailgate clearance. Worth the price. 3121RL Montana with a goose hitch like yours.
That's good to know! I'm loving it! My one wish is that they add a loop for the trailer breakaway cable.
@@BigTruckBigRV that would be very convenient.
@@BigTruckBigRVThe DOT doesn't allow the breakaway cable to the hitch itself. At least on a conventional 5th wheel or bumper pull hitch. That way if the hitch separates from the vehicle it could still activate. At least I think this may be why it doesn't have an attachment point on it.
@@BigTruckBigRVI think your earlier stated practice of attaching the break away to a third puck location is actually better than having it on the relocater bracket. That way you’re truly isolated from any catastrophic failure of any hitch components.
Awesome, solved alot of my Anxiety
Looks real easy
Man that flatbed gooseneck sure is sun faded hard in the texas sun.
This is one of the reasons i like the Anderson hitch. It shifts the trailer a bit back. I want a goosebox for simplicity but i dont think i will gain any usable space when hooked up. This ball setup is unique though
Would love to see you put this in a short bed superduty, and see the cab clearance with a goose puck setup, like on your rv. We haul with a short bed F350 and are stuck with a slider hitch.
I used a slider (PullRite Super Glide) for 10 years on my short bed Ram and it worked GREAT! However, it is very large, heavy and difficult to remove when not needed. With my new truck (also a MegaCab shortbed) I did away with the slider and changed the pinbox on my trailer to a Reese Goosebox and am using a B&W Turnover ball hitch with a B&W offset ball. No more heavy hitch, better towing, easy to use the bed of the truck when not towing. The Goosebox isn't cheap but works very well and I wouldn't go back to a slider for anything....
The Anderson works amazing on my short bed f350. I can clear my 36’ Montana.
I vote for that
@@vincentsumner5232 Same, my Anderson works great for our f350 and small fifth wheel camper.
I have it installed on my 2022 f350 SRW. So i can use a full size toolbox and fuel tank set up.
It's so true sometimes a few extra inches makes all the difference 😂
It's easier if you pull the t-handle up and rotate it 90° when lowering and removing. I really enjoy it on my 2022 F350 short bed, it allows me to leave my Bakflip on while towing
The factory goose hitch is actually about 4" forward of the axle center line, so the shift is less than being made out
We always just close the tailgate after we have the tongue in the bed. Then just finish backing up. But it's not too convenient if you're by yourself.
My goodness this guy can jabber.
Very innovative design, watching that pin and assembly scares me a little as compared to my companion
This would be great for the Ram mega cabs👍
Very nice, a little worried about the stress points though.
I would be concerned about the pressure that the plate would wear on your spray in bed liner. Because the down pressure would not be over the goose ball hole in the puck system, it would be 5"s back on the bed of the truck. Just my 2 cents.
Crazy price for no more material then what’s involved building it. Especially when you compare the cost to a 4” B&W offset.
I own one with a Gen 2 Goosebox and it works great with my 2023 F350 SB.
Can't really compare. B&W doesn't work with OEM fifth wheel gooseneck prep trucks, it also is far more simpler in design. It's also rated at 5k lbs less capacity and is significantly lighter duty.
@@BigTruckBigRV I own the Gen Y 5” offset puck system. Really there isn’t that much more material wise then the B&W. Little bit off flat bar with a couple pins. I would think it should sell around the upper 200’s to $300. I even think the 4” B&W offset is priced to high too, I had one of those in my Ram.
@@seekingadventures Agree. Way over priced.
You are always entitled to build your own if you think you can do it for cheaper. America. Freedom. No one is strong arming you to buy it if it's out of your price range.
How much is a slider 5th wheel hitch? How much does that slider take away from your payload?
A rare glimpse of JD's right hand. Could there be a build up of dirt and grime in the gooseneck hole? Maybe a good cleaning and hit with a little sandpaper.
Thanks JD for this review. My truck has the puck system but I haven't needed to use it yet for the goose ball. I will keep this in mind when the situation occurs. I will tell others also. JD I have a question off topic. Have you any advice on RV refrigerators. Especially on fans mounted inside to circulate the air in the "box"??
I know you have the long bed, but I agree with another commenter, that tow items with a “short bed” trucks (6’9” for Ford). I know you don’t have a short bed truck, it maybe you can get your hands on one to test some items.
You have to pull up on the pin all the way before you drop it in your truck it won’t go in unless you do that
Thanks Gen Y for fixing a problem. But the best answer is remove the Kurt factory junk and replace it with a B&W hitch. I personally have broke 3 of those factory goose neck hitch’s pulling a perfectly legal 5 horse with living quarters trailer
This seems more of a gimmick than anything else. What we really need a video of is that remote-coupler-pin thing on your trailer. That looks handy.
I need one for my Duramax. I have the 6 foot 10 bed. Should help with turning on mt gooseneck
I want to utilize the gooseneck hitch pocket along with all four puck locks for a wrecker type lift.
They're not suitable for that.
Would be nice to see what the difference is for the amount of weight on the front axle with both the standard location and the offset location.
It’s about 100 pounds on the front axle, per 1000 lb of pin weight, if moved 4 inches.
You can get an 11" offset gooseneck from gen-y, so unless I needed more than that I would just get the hitch instead- just my 2cents.
I was wondering how this 5 inch offset will affect the weight on the front end of the truck? Will this offset affect handling or steering in an evasive maneuver? I was also wondering if you took your front and rear axel weights to see the difference?
I need this. Had to jack knife my 5th wheel (little car cut me off, turn or run over the car) that I use a gooseneck hitch to tow. RAM 3500 shortbed, and the 5th wheel overhang crunched the side of the back wall of my cab. I said some bad words!!!
If possible please make video with short bed srw to see clearance with 5th wheel
I don't know what's "amazing" about this, but if one is going to put an offset ball in a round in-bed socket, something is needed to keep the ball assembly from twisting the socket, and a plate connecting to at least one of the puck mounting points does seem like a good plan... and perhaps the only reasonable plan for a ball locked in place by balls (rather than a pin).
Hey BTBRV, do us all a favor and settle the argument about how the 2 different connection points effect the front and rear axle weight. At the cat scale weight the front and rear truck axles with the standard ball location then again with the Gen-y with the 5'' back connection. Some think the back connection effect is so substantial on the weight distribution on the truck and can cause sway. Please give us actual weights. I would guess there is not more than 200lbs difference between the connection points.
Given the wheelbase of BTBRV's truck, every 1000 pounds of pin weight would move 28 pounds of front axle weight to the rear axle.
@@johnneil6653 exactly - there's no need for a scale to anticipate the change.
@@CS-rb9jk The trailer doesn't matter - only its pin weight. The only things that matter about the truck are the wheelbase and the pin position within it.
@@brianb-p6586 That's right, the pin weight and position behind or on center of the rear axle will effect the front axle.
That's what i've been referring to.
@@CS-rb9jk we're not disagreeing on that - I was just responding to an earlier version of your comment about every truck being different... since every truck of the same wheelbase and pin position will behave exactly the same.
Would love to have seen it attached to your 5er
Taylor ray just fitted one to his dodge mega cab
The megas are the best use case for these. Im buying one for mine as we speak
Great video, do you know the difference in the puck system between the 2011-2016 and the 2017 to present Super Duty’s?
Great video ! Nice system.
Will the geny gooseneck and gooseneck kingpin kits work on short box (6.4”) ram with ram boxes?
Your bed rug didn’t seem to interfere with the install. Is that still the case? I have a 3/8” thick contoured rubber mat in my 2023 F350 that I’d prefer not to have to cut out of the way. I contacted Gen-Y directly, however they said that the mat would interfere with the hitch. Thoughts?
Regarding the comment @6:28: an extended pin box is not a problem at all, and pin box manufacturers do make them in different lengths. Of course that's not the same as moving the pin, but it is equivalent to the offset gooseneck coupler shown @6:16.
with the offset hitch, if you were to take a measurement from the original spot of the gooseneck insert, what is the distance if you were to place the truck in a 45 degree angle with the trailer? that offset might be the solution to a potential problem i have. thank you in advance and for your videos
Measure your ball location to outside corner of bumper add 5".
Off subject, what the name of your bed cover ,thinking of putting one against my tool box.
I wonder if you’ll end up damaging the aluminum bed floor under the new ball location… I like the idea, but wonder a bit about that.
The new location does not bend down and contact the bed.
This looks like a great product...but why not just get a longer pin box on the 5er...that's what I had done to correct the cab clearance and tailgate clearance...
That only impactst fifth wheel and not my gooseneck
Pretty cool but Way Pricey Wow
Did that kit come with the chain holders, or not? If not and you don't already have a ball setup, what is used for the chains?
I would leave the 3 bolts between the two pieces loose and then tighten them as a last step. And then loosen (or even remove) the 3 nuts to lift it up outta' there as two pieces -- should be a *lot* easier. :)
Has Gen-Y address this for the GM truck? Right now i use the B&W offset hitch. NO puck
Maybe i missed it, but what is the purpose of the two safety pins on those threaded pieces that hold the bracket into the two pucks? Seems like a couple lock nuts would be a better option. Am i wrong thinking that?
B&w has had one for decades
And a square post that won't rotate. A lot easier dropping in one sq. Shank instead of lining up 3 pins. OEM is always designing in hopes that you'll only buy their stuff.
It almost looks like you should be able to lift that T-handle up above the guard then rotate it 90 degrees to lock it in the up position, then insert the hitch into the hole.
Almost? Yes, that's exactly how it works, as shown in the instructions.
You are increasing the stress on the hitch point with the 5" offset, is the 1" plate going to bend and damage the bed of the truck after extended use? Just wandering
All those who wander are not lost :)
Reminds me of B&Ws old style offset ball. Great concept but a little over engineered and not very user friendly. A little refinement and it might be great. A higher gvw to match newer truck capacity would be nice.
If you measure that out, you'll find that the ball is 1.5 to 2 inches forward of the centerline of the axle. This allows the front axle to bear 10 to 20% of trailer hitch weight.
You need to check your math. A 1.5 to 2-inch offset will certainly result in some load transfer to the front, but not 10 to 20%
2" equals 10-20% to the front axle? I can see maybe a percent or two but not much more just from that slight change (being it's a 176" wheelbase, moving 88 inches forward would yield 50% load to the front axle right?).
@@johnpalmer3848 I didn't do any math...that was a scientific wild ass guess. That being said, I learned to install fifth wheel and gooseneck hitches in the 80s, from a large hitch fab/installation shop.
Not on my truck (3500 Ram dually 4x4). With 3200 pounds of pin weight when hitched up (around 15k GTW) the front axle is within 200 pounds of when unloaded! In other words, the rear axle is carrying the vast majority of the weigh as designed. Tows beautifully with my 20k Reese Goosebox! 👍
With factory FW prep and B&W FW hitch and 2580 pounds of hitch weight, my front axel weight increased 20 pounds from unloaded. That’s .077%. Verified on the cat scale. 13k FW. Truck is ‘22 F350 DRW with 7.3 gasser. No suspension mods of any kind. Both me and the wife in the truck with full tank of fuel for both empty and loaded weighing.
I do realize that the Cat scale only gives weights in 20 pound increments so the actual difference may be a little higher or lower, but worst case scenario would be somewhere between 0 and 40 pounds difference.
Question: what's under the bed supporting the offset ball?
It's 1" thick. Don't think it needs the support
Does this potentially make the slider hitch obsolete??? I currently have the PullRite SuperGlide in my 2021 F250 shortbed with the factory puck system. I added the puck system to have flexibility but ultimately was convinced I should have a slider hitch so went with the SuperGlide, but IF this combined with a Reese Goosebox would eliminate the need for the slider then that is a win. Probably not less overall cost but I do get my bed back!!!!!! Do people really think this would be a viable alternative to a slider and still get 90 degree turning capability?
Yes. The Goosebox tows extremely well since it has built in suspension (airbag and twin shocks) and is VERY robust. Does NOT void the Lippert warranty on the frame like typical gooseneck adapters (plus MUCH safer). Unless you already have some kind of factory setup (sounds likely) you could go with a B&W Turnover ball and get their 4" offset ball ($185 or so) and solve the turning problem and ditch the huge Superglide hitch. NOT knocking the hitch...I towed with one for almost 10 years and it worked great...but you will LOVE having the bed of your truck available again. Best upgrade I've ever made for 5th wheel towing. Well, other than upgrading to a 3500 dually! 😄
Any placement of the ball behind the vertical centerline above the rear axle will cause weight to be taken away from the front axle in a vehicle as short as this truck. The can result in a unsafe condition for load distribution.
Most who tow gooseneck trailers take off and replace the tailgate unless you have a flatbed...
JB, get them to make these for Nissan Titan XD factory puck system
We're currently looking at fifth wheel RV's. Our 2020 Ford F-250 diesel has the 5th wheel prep in the 6-1/2' box and a 2668# max cargo. The Flagstaff Classic 8529CSB has the Curt Turning Point pin box, hitch weight of 1,831 lb. so what hitch would you recommend? My husband would prefer a Gooseneck for more box space and easier removal of towing system at end of camping season. Would love your opinion.
I'd love a video on this topic, the pluses and minuses of goosebox vs. 5th-wheel hitches for RV trailers.
I am a FW hitch fan myself but for your situation I would recommend going with the goose box. You are very close to your max payload and I’m not even sure that you will able to stay within the max GVWR of your truck. Really depends on the weight of passengers and other cargo in the truck. A goosebox setup will definitely help keep the weight down.
Another thing to consider is wether that is a dry pin weight or the actual pin weight when traveling. If it is dry, I would expect that number to increase by 400-500 pounds.
I would recommend at least a 350/3500 SRW pickup with a gas engine to get your available payload up around 4000 pounds.
I just upgraded from a Ram 2500 to an F350 Dually with the 7.3 gas engine for towing my FW. This truck is a beast and I have 6200 pounds of payload. Towing my fifthwheel is night and day difference with this truck.
@@dereknew5298 thanks for sharing
Not to question the BTBRV master: but is it possible you were fighting the locking bearings as much as the tolerance? I think I would pull the "t-bar" up, rotate it 90 degrees to rest in the "open" position... then maybe you'd only be fighting the insertion on one front instead of two... Just my thought. I'm a rookie at the towing/coupling/man stuff.
I kept glancing at the side to make sure that it wasn't jammed up on the ball when I was trying to put it down prior to lubricating it
Yes, the release locks in the up/released position, as clearly explained in the instruction sheet that he was holding earlier in the video.
But why... why not design it to use the puck holes in the aft position; where the load would be within the contact triangle?
Would it not reduce torque forces?
The black plate is being used only to keep the ball assembly from rotating around the vertical axis, so it only needs to reach to the nearest puck mounts. They put the flange to attach the plate opposite of the ball (perhaps for ease of fabrication), so the plate goes to the forward pucks. They could have run the plate on only one side, to both pucks on that side or even to only one.
It looks like the goose ball connection is forward of the rear axle to me.
Some folks have talked about the difference in weight distribution without doing the math. For instance, Mr. Truck has been very critical of the GM ball placement in the newer 6'10" bed. It looks like your truck is 176" wheelbase. 5" offset is 2.8% of that. So for every 1000 pounds of pin weight, you've transferred a whopping 28 pounds of weight from your front axle to the rear. No trips to the scales necessary. Easy math.
Your math is dangerous BS.
The weight distribution around the rear axle is dependent on the placement around the pivot point of the center line of the rear axle. The weight is not evenly distributed over the length of the wheelbase so that moving it back and forth along the total length of the wheelbase produces equal results.
When you place weight forward or rearward of the pivot point it acts like a lever. Archimedes said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." I would modify that to give me a poorly front loaded trailer and a weak rear suspension and I will lift the front end. A torque wrench is a force multiplier due to the length of the distance between the center of the square drive and the place where you place your hand. You can actually change the torque applied to the bolt, nut etc just by changing the position of your hand lower down or higher up from the point that the manufacture of the torque wrench designed the hand to be placed.
If you placed 1000 lbs 5" behind the pivot point of the rear axle the math would be 5/12 = 0.42%. 0.42 X 1000 = 416.7 pounds feet of rotational force trying to lift the front end more than if the 1000 lbs was placed directly on the center line of the rear axle. Due to the way the suspension is connected to the frame in front of and to the rear of the center line of the rear axle the weight distribution is not exactly the same as a pivot point, it certainly is more than 28 pounds per 1000 pounds of additional downward force.
@thinkfirst6431 John's calculation is correct, for the static load distribution; it depends only on longitudinal position of the ball. It does not depend on suspension design; it is a simple lever problem in which only the horizontal locations of the ball and the tire contact patches matter.
You are talking about dynamic load shift from that static distribution, and that depends only on the height of the ball above ground.
They're two independent effects.
@@thinkfirst6431your example math is incorrect: the truck's wheelbase is 176" (not 12") and you forgot a factor of 100, so your 42% is a random meaningless number.
5" is 2.8% of the wheelbase, and so and 1000 pounds 5" behind the rear axle line would transfer 28 pounds from the front axle to the rear.
@@brianb-p6586 A truck is not a simple beam supported on both ends with no support along the length. It could be considered as a beam with different support locations that transfer the load to the ground differently.
The only important thing is how the overall load shifts back and forth from the front axle to the rear axle within the weight capacities of the axles and how it effects the balance of the truck in relation to the loading of the truck and trailer.
Truck frames have no support on the ends and have 2 supports that transfer weight from the beam to the ground differently.
The front support is ether independent on each side or has a solid axle such as a 4X4 with a tube axle. Probably a coil spring suspension. Independent suspensions transfer weight differently than a solid axle will.
The rear support is most likely a leaf with connecting supports that are not a equal distance between the center line of the rear axle. Overload leaf springs tend to touch in the back first then the front with ever increasing loading.
You are not loading the frame per say, the frame is just transferring the applied load to the ground through the axles. It is a nonlinear loading as it is dependent on where the load is applied in relation to the placement of the load AND the action of the front and rear suspension.
The only true way to determine the amount of load shift is to weight the front and rear contact points of the axles where the tires contact the ground before and after shifting the load.
You have the same problem with tandem axle trailers. You can take a 1000lb load from the nose and transfer it to the rear of the trailer that doesn't translate to a 1000lb reduction of the tongue weight.
@@brianb-p6586 Your comprehension of the math is faulty at best. The result was expressed in the rotational effect of foot pounds of torque or as is more popular today pounds feet of torque. 12"/5" describes the arm of the lever applying torque around the rear pivot of the rear axle and has nothing to do with the length of the frame other than the frame and the part of the truck that is ahead of the rear pivot point has mass that resists that rotational force canceling some of the rotational force.
Short bed f350 guy here wondering if I could use this in tandem with my Anderson…..?
Shouldn’t the breakaway cable be attached forward of the chains so in the event of a loose trailer it would engage the brakes prior to the chains full extension.
I was curious, so I didn’t math. 3000lbs of pin weight set 5” behind the axle will lift 85lbs of weight off the front axle. Not bad at all
It's not set behind the axle. The pin on the truck sits forward of the axle by a few inches
Will this work with short bed trucks?
No welds on the bottom? I would take it to a welder to inspect the welds and add metal glue to the bottom.
What’s the brand of that torque wrench?
I have a question on it being 25K capable at all angles, not just straight back. Not sure 3 3/8 bolts are enough for 25K sideways.
You're discounting the fact that the gooseneck ball sits down inside a beefy steel bracket which is bolted securely to the truck frame. All those 3 bolts do is keep the 5" offset pointed to the rear. The amount of stress trying to get it to do anything else must surely be minimal. But I've been wrong before and I'm happy to BE wrong again. :)
@@user-pp2ze4yq3m you forget that it is round and fits in a round hole not a square one. I stand behind my comment. Oh just so you know I have a factory puck system with a round hole and a long bed. Long bed saves a lot of problems short beds create.
I think JC Whitney used to sell these.
Wonder if you could use this with the Anderson ultimate 5th wheel aluminum hitch???
Probably won't work because of base of the Andersen
The Andersen Ultimate provides for an offset of several inches similar to this product. I agree the base of the Ultimate would not allow for using the puck system for the stabilizer.
I spoke with Andersen on the phone. Their techs endorsed the use of their hitch over an offset ball such as the Reese or Curt systems. If 5.5" of the Andersen and 4" in an offset hitch gets you where you want...
This is really neat and handy. The provided nuts for the stabilizer wing appear to be nylock nuts. Tells me they don’t necessarily intend the pieces to be separated. Couldn’t they have just made it one piece? Or is there a design aspect for that, that I’m not seeing?
They may use the same ball assembly with different puck systems, changing only the black plate to suit the puck spacing. That would require that the different systems have compatible ball sockets, but the dimensioned drawing on the Gen-Y website shows exactly the same ball assembly dimensions for all four versions (Ford, previous GM, current GM, Ram).
They do not appear to be nylon lock nuts when he is spinning them with 2 fingers after the hitch is placed in the pucks.
Any type of locking nut can make sense, since it is correct that there is no intention to disassemble the product after initial assembly.
@@wakeupamerica2024 Nylock (and similar) nuts spin on freely until the locking section reaches the end of the bolt, and that's how far he spins them on with his fingers.
@@brianb-p6586 a regular nut would act the same way
I bet a pre lube of the retaining ball bearings would have made it easier
It doesn't need lubrication, it just needs to be fully released by pulling the handle all the way up.
Do you have to grease the ball for the Reese 20k gooseneck hitch adapter for a 5th wheel?
Probably not, since the grease zerk on the Goosebox allows you to goose the coupler.
@@BigTruckBigRV does that keep the ball pretty clean? I just ordered the Reese gooseneck; how often do I need to grease the zirk?
"Now if it's resting a few inches behind the rear axle, that's a big shift. Now it is going to be a shift, but it's not going to be a big shift."
I'm confused.
Once you evaluate exactly how much weight is transferred by shifting a few inches back, you'll realize it's pretty insignificant. Also, Ford places the OEM ball mount slightly forward of the axle, so it's even shorter than you think
I had to chuckle a bit....I am using the B&W Turnover ball setup on my 3500 Ram dually, and it is SO much easier simply because they (cleverly) use a SQUARE socket and ball mount post so it can't turn in the socket. No need for the goofy "wing" adapter plate just to keep the ball mount from spinning in the socket! MUCH more "innovative" design IMO! (It's been around for quite a while)....been towing a 15k Montana 5er withone for years, zero issues.
Yeah, it is "only" rated at 20k GTW and 5k tongue (vertical). More than adequate for about 95% of the 5th wheels out there.... Literally takes about 30 seconds to install or remove it when not needed. I use the stock (non offset) turnover ball just to plug the socket for a smooth bed.
hooray for you!. Now most trucks come with OEM puck systems and this is a product for them.
I have a Ram 3500 SRW with factory puck. All you say about the B & W is true for my setup. I don't need extra cab or trailer clearance foe any turning or hitching up at an angle which I try hard not to do.
@@megadesertdiesel1468 Too bad they chose a system that requires this overpriced and clumsy solution. Progress? Not so much...
Looks like the plate is flexing and will bend the bed floor.
should have used loaded trailer and weighted front and rear axles of truck before and after to see how muck it moved the weight on the truck, moving the weight back has to reduce front axle weight.
why not put your axles on a scale with both balls to see the difference? I do like the litch pin retainer
Does the plate that the new ball now sits on press into the bedfloor?
No sir.
@BTBRV so then the actual pinweight still remains in the factory location even tho it's offset by 5". Kinda a win win Herr with this bad boy
It would be better if they welded the bottom of the puck instead of just the top
Would this work for short bed Ford OEM puck systems?
Obviously it works for a Ford long bed as shown with the Ford 450. I'm trying to think why a short bed would be different.
Yes I have for my 2019 f-350 with the short box. Easy to take in and out.
You could scale the truck and trailer to show that it’s isn’t or is much of a difference on axle weight
The weight is still attached to the truck at the same point as with a straight, regular ball mount. No difference. I've weighed it.
@@flash8051 No, it is not. The weight-carrying point is shifted rearward, which is the whole purpose of the device. The rear axle load will be higher, and the front axle load will be lower by the same amount.
@@brianb-p6586 How much difference do you say the offset ball will make in the rear and front axle load? Just curious, because I am going to get weights with each one and post the results. Let's see how close you are...
@@flash8051the offset is 5". In this case the truck's wheelbase is 176", and 5 is 2.8% of 176, so the change will be 2.8% less of the hitch load on the truck's front axle and 2.8% more of the hitch load on the truck's rear axle; if, for instance, your hitch load is 1,000 pounds, the 5" offset will shift 28 pounds from front to rear. Your results will depend on your truck's wheelbase snd your trailer's hitch weight.
I'm looking forward to your scale confirmation.
Just get scale tickets in both cases, then you will know exactly how much difference there really is!