How To Swap Hydraulic Disc Brake Hoses On A Road Bike | Maintenance Monday
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2017
- Dan puts on the workshop apron and shows you how to easily swap brake hoses on hydraulic disc brakes.
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Let us know your tips for swapping hydraulic brake hoses in the comments below 👇
Follow Dan Lloyd and his simple steps to swap front/rear brake hoses on hydraulic brakes, especially when using the Shimano system.
You will need
2x8mm spanners
2.5mm Allen Key
6mm Allen Key
Brake Pad Spacer or Folded up cardboard
Flathead screwdriver
Disc Brake Oil
Hydraulic Oil
Rag
It's a fairly complex task to undertake but follow Dan's instructions carefully and you will be fine.
If you'd like to contribute captions and video info in your language, here's the link 👍 gcn.eu/ma
Watch more on GCN...
How To Not Maintain Your Bike - Road Bike Maintenance 📹 gcn.eu/HowToNotMaintain
How To Bleed Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brakes 📹 gcn.eu/mb
Photos: © Bettiniphoto / www.bettiniphoto.net/ & ©Tim De Waele / www.tdwsport.com
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Leave us a comment below! - Sport
I mean, I love these videos, but I know that I have no intention of ever doing this job. Still watching though.
Looking at Dan in that apron makes me crave a latte and chocolate twist.
Excellent demonstration and presentation. Very clearly explained and seems like a pretty straightforward job...not that I will be doing it but it's interesting to watch and I like knowing (vaguely, anyway) what I'm talking about when at the LBS. Thanks as always, Dan 👍🏻
Great maintenance video idea, i'm surprised this wasnt done already! Thanks
oh lord! I needed this so badly last year...
you guys have already done the bleeding video? cause I need that now.
Any chance you can do a similar video showing how to reverse the brakes on a SRAM eTap hydraulic setup?
great video! are you going to do a sram version of this. I have a sram force id like to change
Great video thank you. I am exchanging a stem to a longer one on my new road bike but the hydraulic brake cable line is too short how will I do it, I have the same bike as you demonstrate.
Alcoholic Cleaning Fluid. My Aunty used to use that in the shower, the Lush.
I do miss her, she was never the same since going top the meetings.
Any chance you could do a version of this upgrading from mechanical disc to hydraulic please? You mention that "this video may not be for you" and I was really hoping for a link there on which video would be for me :)
i love GCN!
1:31 I was not aware that they made special cleaning fluid for alchoholics. I usually just hose them down in the cell if they smell too bad.
Have you done this on a bike without the junction fitting. Received my new bike from Canyon on Saturday with levers the wrong way round and no connector junction like yours :-(
Nice video !
Perfect bike for senior
Is there a SRAM version of this video? I need to switch over my left/right cables.
omg new gcn and gtn video as the same time!
gmbn too. ;)
OMG
yes all of them same time and i got lost my connection
Could you use a hand bleed pump on the caliper as you would for a motorbike?
Mike0T7 it can be done with a syringe bleed kit
If you don't have mineral oil, can you use six or seven mineral waters instead?!
Is it normal to have a alan key to removee the front wheel.? I still have the quick release ones.
I tend to weld them on. The hard men in the early days of the TDF had to have good blacksmith skills.
I should have written "at least eight" ...
Love how I don't have hydraulic brakes yet I still watched the whole thing lol
Thank you.
Do you need to put a new olive everytime you take the brake hose out from the lever? Or is it save to re use the same one?
You can reuse it
@@ToThePointCT what i have been told not the best option, thanks!
at 3:19 dont you need to replave the "olive" cooper ring from the brake line with a new one? will ti work with the old one?
its recommended to replace them, but i never had a problem by not doing so.
Handy dandy
These "easy hose joint system" (J-Kit?), are they available for purchase? If so, does anybody have part #'s?
Do i need to buy teflon hoses?
Do you guys at gcn mind making a video on how to switch from flat bar to drop bar?
don't do it, bro!
SimSimon87 why tho?
unless you ride a fixie, you'd need new shifters/brake levers, new brakes, new front and rear derailleur and most likely also a new cassette and chainrings/crankset and chain which got to be compatible to one another.
What you get is a road bike with way too much reach because your frame geometry is optimized to accommodate flat bars. You might end up with a tiny stem to compensate for the reach and in the end you spend a ton of money for a crappy result.
Keep your bike and get a new road bike.
Seriously!
You can thank me later for that!
SimSimon87 GG thanks man is either I save up or wait one day to get a bike for free from a give away(possibly never so option one here I come)
save for next summer ;)
Isn't the step where you remove rear wheel redundant? Does it matter if your brake pads grab onto the wheel versus pistons grabbing the plastic bit? It's the same.
I'm almost certain you are right. Probably just habitually following the same procedure as if they were doing a complete fluid flush.
The block gives 0 movements of pistons v slight movement with the pad/rotor in place.
if you let the brake pads there,pistons are going further out and the pads will grave the disc always. That block means you put same amount of oil every time and pads will got his space whit the disc to work 100%.
Can you adjust the brake lever travel on a disc bike, if so how?
Any half decent disc brake has a travel adjuster at the lever.
I know the hydraulic fluid in the Airbus A320 becomes hot but can bike brake hydraulic fluid heat up during heavy use?
Yes. While not common, on extended downhill runs with a lot of braking it is possible for the fluid to heat up to the point that you get brake fade.
of course, same like in a car, motorbike, aircraft or anything that uses hydraulic braking. if you overtax the braking system you will get fading.
Nice😍
Anyone knows the name/model name or Shimano Junction cable?
Well, this video made the hair stand up. It might be from motorbiking but if I do any maintenance on the braking lines I always do a full bleed on the system to make sure there's no air bubbles in it. Even on a bicycle it would make the brakes spongy.
it weird that you can't bleed from the bottom. If you could do that like on a normal hydraulic you could pump the fluid all the way through and be sure there are no bubbles as with car brakes.
bike brake are closed system,no air is allow inside,no expansion bottle whit the reservoir,really easy to bleed from the top,no fight against gravity laws. Just the amount of oil is ridiculous,you can flush 4 brakes or more whit the amount of oil seen in the video.You can bleed the brakes from the bottom but is a waste of oil and time and not so effective .
Rob Lucchetti but you can do that. Just no point doing a syringe bleed when you're merely letting a tiny bit of air out from the top of the lines after transposing the hoses
What's with the tall steerer tube?
Simon Knowles the whole purpose of the headset spacers is to let the rider choose how they want the bike set up. It's perfectly acceptable to have the stem lower for a more aerodynamic position.
Dan, you got a little Clint Eastwood likeness going on there. Just need a cowboy hat and a squint 😆
Mine don't have this junctions. Is it still possible to swap them? I have the Shimano Ultegra RS685.
Yes, you will need to remove the bar tape and remove the line at the levers. Same rules apply. Just be aware you may need to do a full bleed. I have the same levers.
Rob Bonney thank you sir. I had my brakes swapped across by my local bike shop.
I know this is an old video but does anybody have any idea where to get those hydraulic line junctions? Is there a Shimano part number? I need these in my life to disassemble and pack for travel.
Could not find a Shimano part, but check these out - installed 2 and they work perfectly.: TRP Hydraulic Hose Coupler Kit - TL 1.3, 5.0mm Coupler Kit
shimano rep told me that these quick connects are one time use only, and are not meant to be used after disconnected. someone please explain.
Seems like this is a "J-kit" quick-connect fitting. Brake systems sold as J-kits have their olives and fittings already installed in the brake lever/STI lever and caliper, which are pre-bled. The J-kit quick connect parts are supposed to ease assembly with no need to bleed the fluid, and are meant for OEMs/manufacturers/assemblers...so yes, they are meant to be one-use only.
have you the part number or model of the junctions?, i'm interested to buy a pair of junctions to install on my disc brake hoses, but i can't found them
Did you manage to find them? I've been looking too and can only find them as part of a brakeset
So far I’ve only found this part www.ticycles.com/store-all/hydraulic-brake-line-coupler
I too would love to get ahold of a couple of those junctions, but I cannot find art numbers. Any luck anyone?
Dan hitting the G-CN spot at 7:26
What would happen if I used DOT 4 brake fluid instead of mineral oil?
it will damage the rubber seals
John Doe Your particular system will use either dot fluid or mineral oil depending on the brand. Always check first! Never use dot 5.some systems will use dot 5.1 and some will use dot 4
Oof, off to the bike shop with that one.
For what purpose were the rear pads removed? Could you not have used the red spacer instead? No fluid was going near the rear and instead you've made it more likely to contaminate the pads.
I was wondering exactly the same thing - could GCN reply please...Surely this was an unnecessary step?
I agree. He could have left the rear wheel and brake pads in. I guess he was setting up to do some maintenance on the rear caliper out of habit.
Shimano recommends to use the bleed block instead of the spacer, that way the pistons are moved in the correct initial position. it may also work with the spacer, but the pistons may come too far out and you are more likely to get brake rub. especially if your brake pads are worn down.
does somebody know the part number from the junctions?
Does Simon know you've switched his brakes around?
PuroYO not in lhd countries
PuroYO in an earlier maintenance video a few months back, Simon squeezed the left-hand brake for the rear brakes (which suggests it was initially set up like this although it might just be the way it was edited). Also Simon is left-handed... just wondering if Lloydy had to reswap them back after the video 😂
"Be firm, but don't go overboard, it's only plastic" I've been saying that for years
why the brake cables are swapped in the begening of the video?
Ricardo Chial because in left hand drive countries the front brake is on the right. In right hand drive countries the front brake is on the left. Sometimes when you buy a bike that's set up differently or sell the bike to someone who wants it set up differently you need to swap the hoses.
Will Davis hi Will, thanks for your answer... 👍👍👍💪💪💪
how many bloopers were there with mineral water instead of mineral oil?
There's no quick release for a thru axel? You have to use an Allen key? Just another tool to carry..
U coul get thru axels with lever but its neater and lighter that one
U coul get thru axels with lever but its neater and lighter that one
timtimzi ni another tool to carry? What do you mean? Every rider should carry a mini multi tool and it's been a recommendation for decades, long before this new tech arrived.
Exactly.That sholud be the bare minimun.Never leave the house without a multitool.
Press this over and over 3:07
@6.50 "Get your bleedin funnel!"
Wasn't there supposed to be an unboxing yesterday? An unboxing that Dan was going dirty up today...
Wont one of the cables be to short now? Rear fx 🤔
So, who are the lucky GCN presenters at the Eurobike this week? I live close to Friedrichshafen :-) Hope to meet one of you guys! Let me know if you need tips for the region.
GCN has turned to disaster preparedness...."If things don't go as planned, you may need..."
6:46 "Get your bleeding funnel" No need for the swearing ;)
Didn't need to "burp" that first lever even when you broke and olive joint?!
No, never. It will cause fluid to leak out. Do not touch the levers at that time
Jolyon Palmer with a bigger beard
Great video! ...but i still don't understand why anyone thinks hydraulics on a bicycle are a good idea. I can't imagine doing this on the road if needed!
DFTA (Don't Feed The Animals) you're just showing how clueless you are. MTBs have used discs happily for over 10 years. You shouldn't need to bleed brakes mid ride. I've done over 5000 miles and my saint hydraulics feel identical to day one. Just one pad replacement at 2.5k miles.
Hydraulics on a bicycle are better because they have more modulation, require less braking effort, and don't fade in the rain like rim brakes do.
In MTB almost nobody uses rim brakes anymore, soon this will spread to road
Huhhhhhh? Did Dan switch from mineral water to mineral oil?
Your breaks are round the wrong way?
b2theb there is no wrong way. In some counties it's the other way
Will Davis I live in the UK....
@@Hirotoro4692 well, it could still be wrong. When you're right handed, it's the most optimal to put the front brake on the right. For all intents and purpose, this would be the right way.
Cables? Why are you calling the hoses cables?
Remind me to order 3 more liters of Shimano fluid for the shop..... this video may have started a rash of roadies in need of a proper brake service.
Thanks for the business boys!
If it isn't there, it can't break, it doesen't weight, it doesen't cost anything.
Disc brakes on road bikes are exactly the opposite!!
L G your point is moronic. The benefits of discs on road mean better stopping power and control, especially in wet. You only looked at the cons and not the pros.
That wasn’t a complete bleed.
I just run my hydraulic brakes as pneumatic brakes. Far less messy without any oil
If you've got, caliper brakes YA DON'T HAVE TO SO THIS 😂
lee a dorney although you would have to switch the cables around
You are 100% correct. You just have to replace cables more frequently than I have to bleed brakes.
I'm sorry to say this guys but you do give some wrong information in this video. If you open an hydraulic circuit you should ALWAYS bleed the system. To bleed the systeem you need to pump the air thru the system. The way you bleed youre brakes is incorrect, however it can work somethimes, but this is not how it should be taught to people who have never worked on hydr. brakes. I should also point out to the viewer how you can tell something is wrong (example: no pressure build ip in the first squize of the brake, pressure comes up after several squizes,...).
I'm not here to comment on all that is wrong, this comment is only because brakes are a safety measure and as licensed car mecanic and workshop supervisor, I feel obliged to step in.
Arne Seys this is incorrect. Firstly they aren't doing a proper bleed, which is OK for their purposes. Secondly you do not need to always do a bleed after transposing the hoses. Sometimes you do but I've built up new bikes in shops and 95% of the time you switch the hoses, pump the lever a few times once it's all tightened back up, and it feels identical to before
Will Davis I know this can work on a bike, however you should look at the gmbn video concerning bleeding brakes. This video is a proper tutorial, this is the way to teach it to non professionals.
Not to confuse mineral oil with mineral water - disaster!
This is a little disingenuous: you know brakes / bikes never come with these junctions.
I just got a bike that has them! Didn't know what they were, the video was helpful.
I'd like to understand better what went wrong however.
Think i'll stick with my rim brakes
Defo. Life's too short to waste it sodding around with discs.
Maybe bleed my mtb brakes once every 2 years.Think il consider that worth it.And no problems screwing your rims in the rain too
pronabol only people who say that are people who haven't ridden discs and realised for themselves how they blow rims out of the water
How often do you swap brakes?
Another useless video with generic title, screw google algorithm and brake junctions
and... no link to the parts so no one can actually use the video.
disc brakes are dangerous. rim brakes are far superior.
JLP Design you have the augmentative skills of a child. Rim brakes are lighter and won't cut you or don't get as hot, this is true. But at the same time discs are superior in every other facet: stopping power, reliability, modulation. They also don't go out of whack if the rim buckles.