Replace your hydraulic disc brake pads (it's easy and will save you $$$) | Syd Fixes Bikes
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- Disc brake pads are one of the most important components of your bicycle as they allow you to STOP! Unfortunately, they wear out over time. So if you haven't checked your brake pads recently, now's the time.
What you'll need:
Brake pads - bit.ly/3lfoLYX
Bleed funnel - bit.ly/3MfUTrr
Mineral oil - bit.ly/3LoBCTk
Digital caliper - bit.ly/3NkHlew
Allen keys - bit.ly/3sFyAnk
Needlenose pliers - bit.ly/3PmAiUi
Other things in the shed:
Our toolkit: bit.ly/337LfDf
Allen keys: bit.ly/2HpDW15
Work stand: bit.ly/3mTXStc
Tool pegboard: amzn.to/3mTYlLY
Syd's apron: amzn.to/345MbHz
Paint pens: amzn.to/2TpCL4u
00:00 Intro
00:21 What you'll need
00:43 Why should you do this?
01:42 How to check your brake pads
04:53 How to replace brake pads
10:13 Center the brake
11:02 Lever bleed (optional)
11:18 Bed in new brake pads
11:39 How to check and replace brake pads in one minute
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❤ li like you 😊
I would recommend cleaning the pistons before pushing them back. Otherwise dirt that is stuck to the outside will be pushed into the sealing which might increase the risk of getting a sticky/lazy piston which is even more hastle than cleaning the pistons in the first place.
Indeed. Plus it is such an easy step to add in.
I agree, and cleaning all around the caliper while the pads are out (Q-tip with alcohol) is also good I think
That's a good practice !!!
I clean around the pistons with alcohol then put the correct oil around them before pushing them back in. Then clean off the oil with more isopropyl alcohol.
came to the comments to write about this... Yes - clean your pistons, specifically if you have contaminated brake pads or rotors. One of the pistons can be lazy - check if there is no dirt/mud there. There is a tool to push back the pistons but a screwdriver will work too.
This is NOT actually a closed system as there is room for air to move in behind the bladder and compensate for the oil filling in behind the pistons as the pads wear. Thus there is also the ability for the bladder to expand to allow a bit of fluid expansion as brakes heat up or when you push the pistons back into the caliper. You do not generally need to let oil out of your bleed port to push pistons back when replacing pads. And, as noted by others, it's also a good idea to clean the pistons before pushing them back in to reduce the amount of dirt pushed back inside the caliper further contaminating your brake fluid. But then, whatever. You two make great inspiring and empowering content that is greatly appreciated. Please, keep it up!
Plastic tire lever works great to push the pistons back without damage
In case no one has mentioned it.. I have a cool machinist tip for measuring brake pads with your digital calipers:
Measure the little step like Syd did, but while that measurement is still on the caliper display, hit the “zero” key to zero the display. Then measure across the whole brake pad thickness, but now the display will read only the consumable part of the pad without needing to do any math. Neat huh?
When you’re done reset the calipers to their normal state.. usually by holding the “zero” key in for 2 or 3 seconds till it reads normally (depending on your caliper model.)
After watching you for 2 years without a clear goal I just started a student job at a bikeshop. I love every second I spend at work and I can't believe I get payed for it 🤯. I thought I would get the nasty jobs but I actually got to work on bikes!
Thank you so much for helping me develop my passion! 😁💛
Congrats!!! 🎉
You sound way to nice to be a bike mechanic…. 😂
Welcome back to the shed, the prefect antidote to that stressful Mesa Verde video, and relax.
There's no need to open the master cylinder bleed port *if* the system was never overfilled. But if you've previously done a lever bleed without resetting the pistons and installing a bleed block, you probably overfilled it and it will be necessary to allow the surplus fluid to come out as you've depicted.
Thank you two for these videos. I am newish to mountain biking and these are the easiest videos for normal folks to understand!
It is a cotter pin widget. The shop-studio successor to the shed looks great. Love these self- help video series. They are the best because it is also a conversation.
Great tip using the spring clearance as a replacement guide!
"Stop, if you still can." 😂🤣😂
I am so glad I found your channel....I am just getting into mountain biking and though I most likely won't get into big technical trails I do want to have fun on the flowy trails but I also want to fix and maintain my bikes and maybe who knows fix other people's bikes too.
Thank you! This video was so comprehensive and covered all the info I've been looking for.
Great video. Love the way you guys break the process down and explain everything in detail. Even a boob like me can tackle this chore 👍🏼
Great detail in the video! Someone taught me to use a plastic tire lever (like the Pedros hi-viz ones) to push the pistons back. It takes a little more dexterity but it's less stressful for me knowing that I probably can't hurt the pistons with the plastic lever like I could with a metal tool.
Please remember to clean the pistons before pressing back in as it pushes debris into your seals and can lead to brake failure
Love these videos bc they're interesting to watch and you clearly explain everything. Kudos
Great video - you may want to mention the key differences be metal and resin pads and specific resin-only rotors.
Mechanics can also use a plastic tire lever to push the pistons into the caliper when required. Keep up the good work!
I think I'll come to the brake service for you from Poland. :-) Thank you for the great tutorial video.
You would be surprised with how helpful this was :) Thank you
Putting the funnel on when pushing the pistons back was SO helpful. I never thought of that and got the pistons right back in there
Very cool, thanks mine are getting bad. So glad I found this
This is a really nice format. Good job.
I love this channel. I learn so much. You guys are more awesome!
Great video. I went to Magura brakes on my last two bike builds. They use magnets rather than springs to keep the pads in place - way easier to deal with than springs. And they have several color options, and are lightweight. I'm not a Magura sales rep or anything, just like their brakes.
If you're thinking about switching to metallic pads, first check your rotors. A lot of stock rotors have 'resin only' written on them. If that's the case you probably want to budget for new rotors as well.
Might as well, cause if you don't, you will have to in a few rides anyway.
Good tip!
Thanks, just what I needed. You can measure the pad thickness directly at the 'small' end of the caliper, if you rest the end on the pad and let the little extending piece touch the back plate you will have the direct measurement with no resets or math!
Good tip to use the old pads to push the caliper back. I have used a plastic tire lever in the past, but like your hack!
It's especially helpful when the plastic lever isn't cutting it.
Very useful and helpful video, thank you
You both are AWESOME!!
Your videos are always awesome and helpful - keep them up!!
I'm going to try this again soon. When I tried previously I had a lazy piston and to take it to the shop - didn't want to F anything up!...LOL.
I wish you guys had a strong light to show the positioning of the pistons. So you push them back into the caliper and make sure they are evenly plush with the surface ( or entry - hard to explain..LOL). Thanks!
If they aren't COMPLETELY flush, that's probably fine, but they should be close.
Yes Syd, airplanes have brakes. Almost all have Disc, hydraulic disc brakes along with park brake. Now you have shared the basic knowledge for their maintenance. Zoom Zoom.
Great video, worth mentioning that some brakes do not use mineral oil but DOT fluid. The brake fluid reservoir at the lever usually says what it uses.
I heard sram was going to have brakes with mineral oil.@@enterpriseone6116
Always enjoy your vids! I switched to ceramic MTX pads… for my ebike they work so much better than the stock shimano 4 piston ones. Also… no bedding in and no chirping warbling squealing etc! Highly recommend. Also… glad to know my life does not depend on that little spring if it somehow flys off the bike. 😆
I also switched to MTX pads and I am enjoying them as well.
You guys make fun videos, and I learned something. I still can't quite believe that my bicycle has hydraulic disk brakes! 🤓
i brought good year newton 2.5 29 inch tyres they are so good u should get a pair syd
Muchas gracias por el vídeo, seria genial que hubiera subtítulos en castellano.
I need help with recognize brake pad looking at pictures. How do i download pictures for your to see.
Thank you
Sorry cotter pin is an R clip, great video as always ,😊
Thanks!
So…Park Tools has a video to show how to clean the stuck pistons and they don’t open the bleed screw at all on the lever. Is that a mandatory step? Or just up to rider preference?
Clean those pistons before pushing them back in.... easiest way to help prevent a sticky piston.
A friend of my had the braking surface come of the brakepads when they where new. The iron of the pads came to the rotor's and f*cked them up, really weird for new brakepads. I love your vid's greets from Belgium hope to come to the us once to ride
It's that time of the month again
Very good explanation thanks you for the vid you just got a new sub :)
Welcome!
awesome!
Nice
Hey Syd, do you happen to know how to adjust the lever travel for Sram hydraulic disc brake? Eg. lock the disc with half press.
I am running Rival eTap AXS.
Appreciate the comprehensive knowledge sharing of the channel!
Hi man,
While I don’t have any experience with SRAM road brakes, I have had similar issues with my G2 and Code MTB brakes. A lot of times on my brakes it’s just the lever reach and contact adjusters being out of place, I don’t know if road levers have these but if they do, definitely the first step. If lever adjustments fail, pushing the pads apart with the little plastic pad spacer/wedge widget sometimes works. Lastly, resetting the pistons by doing a lever bleed like Syd did will surely give you the range of motion back. You will be using a syringe an DOT fluid for the bleed though! Check out the excellent resources on the SRAM website for more info and bleed procedures.
Best of luck dude!
Unfortunately we don't have any experience with SRAM (or at least haven't used them in close to a decade at this point...)
@@sydfixesbikes I see. 's cool. Thanks~
@@jacksnyder9399 I am trying to do the opposite actually.
I have the full ROM now but I try to restrict it, like how you move the brake pads close to the brake track for rim brake, so I need only little motion to have the full braking.
On my rear brake, my right pad is much more worn than the left pad. Is this normal?
Hi Syd, first off, I love your show and thank you for posting these really informative videos. Speaking of which, I have a question; I have a Road bike with a 1 x setup. 44 at the front and 12-28 at the back. I've noticed that, occasionally, Whenever I'm off the saddle for a climb and very seldomly, when I switch my gears, I would hear this ping at the chain set. Is this normal or, if not, does it mean something is wrong with my setup? will it eventually snap my chain or chip my gears? should I worry about it? Hope to hear from you soon and best of luck on your future posts! :)
Hey. A ping could mean a lot of things, but if it occurs when you're putting lots of force on the pedals and shifting then its normal. However, this should generally be something to avoid. If you're shifting try to lower the force on the pedals, as it puts less strain on all of the parts. Just practice this. If you're worried about it you can always take it to a local bike shop and ask them to check it out in person
@@boldizsarmelegh870 thank you, good sir
what is the difference between the different types of hose connectors to the calliper. and how does the one that connects to the side of the calliper work. if anyone could answer this that would be great. thx so much.
The side ones use a crazy hollow bolt to allow fluid to pass through. There isn't really a difference in them except that different models use different ones.
Do u need to have a Shimano funnel or can
u use any funnel that’s compatible with Shimano brakes?
Any funnel that connects to the Shimano brakes will be fine
Thanks. A lot of new info I wasn't aware of. Just one question? How would you know to replace your rotors?
If they are too warped to straighten or if they are too worn, use a caliper to check wear amount.
It's worth noting that we've very rarely had to replace rotors because they don't wear very quickly. But definitely worth checking their width with a caliper every once in a while.
Thanks for the replies. I've had my bike for 4 years now and still rock the same original rotors. I just have no other indication than measuring them?
If they look patchy (you can see the inner material through patches on the outer material) it's definitely time. Otherwise, you just gotta measure.
Okay. Thank you for the information.
I suggest to clean the pistons with isopropyl alcohol before pushing them back so the dirt does not enter the caliper.
My front brake still squeals!! Rear is fine though.
U guys r greeeat
where are yall loacted id like to send my bike in for a one of yalls video.
You should explain WHY the pistons should be pushed back using the old pads. Especially for shimano brakes with ceramic pistons.
And before you push them back you should check if they move freely. If not - pushing them back might cause piston crack.
Hey Sid and Macki, why do you use metal instead of resin pads?
Thx for the answer😊
We prefer the longevity, power and bite of metal pads and don't mind that they're a bit noisier.
coliper pin?
That moment when you realize by looking at how to maintain your components that your bike is more entry level than you thought: 😟
That next moment when you realize that you have an excuse to upgrade your WHOLE KIT: 🥳
2:15 thats a snap ring or security clip
I have always referred to the clip as a Jesus Clip. Every time you work with them, you get hold of it and Jesus where did that fly off to.
🤣
For Shimano, there's a special new tool to push in the pistons back.
park tool has had a tool that does this for at least the past decade. opening up the system is completely unnecessary
I'll stick with my good old-fashioned "RIM BRAKES" ..... pads out, pads in, job done ✔
so that would imply that someone is adding fluid as the pads wear...not sure why they woudl do that. if you dont there is no need to recover fluid since it will not push past teh reservoir.
Many people (us include) will do lever bleeds throughout the life of the pads to increase lever feel.
If your brakes use cotter pins, throw them out and get Magura. If the pads get contaminated with brake fluid, bake them at 400 degrees for 24 minutes with your pizza. But not actually on the pizza, obviously.
It's called a damn it clip because that's what you say when it springs loose from the pliers to land in a dark corner of the shop never to be seen again.
Why does a pair of disc brake pads for my bike cost the same as disc pads for a car?
Good question!
Economies of scale + supply and demand ;-)
5:38 😜
Omg Syd does not know airplanes have brakes? Oof! Airplanes have two type of brakes, regular hydraulic brakes and engines back trust brakes!
Its a split pin not a cotta pin..
Jesus clip, when you drop it, you shout “Jesus” because they’re crazy hard to find.
Your widget's a cotter key
Close, but filled w/ missed steps and bad "Bedding" advise. Is this a Brake Pad change tutorial or Brake Bleed tutorial ? Symptoms requiring a pad change are quite different than those requiring a Hyd Bleed of the system. Dedicating a vid to either a Pad change or Bleed operation would have given better detail for each of these maint tasks. At 5:35 you've mention that Resin and Metal Pads are different and that doing a "Bedding In" of the new pads isn't necessary if you've not changed Pad Types. Thats REALLY bad information and could be dangerous to an unsuspecting Noob doing a pad change for the first time. You should ALWAYS do a "Bedding In" of new Brake Pads regardless of weather you've changed types or not. Bedding a Pad into a Rotor simply matches the pad to the worn surface of the Rotors and removes any glaze from New Pads regardless of Pad Type. All Braking does is convert Kinetic Energy into Heat, it's why different Pad compounds have a different Stopping quality to them. Resin Pads are a mix of Heat resistant Resins and softer metal types and give a more "progressive" feel to braking but tend to fade with extensive use. They Wear faster but your Rotors last longer than w/ the Metal or Ceramic compounded pad types. The Harder Metal/Ceramic pads are Also a compounded mix that use harder metals than in Resin compounds. The harder pads "grab" a bit more firmly, don't "fade" as badly as Resin and will cause your Rotors to wear faster. If you're going to take the time to "mic" your Pads you should at Least know the Wear Limits of the Rotor type your using (found at the manufacturers website). My Tektro Rotors are New @ 1.8mm thick and are at their Wear Limit (the thinnest limit the manufacturer will warrant) at 1.6mm's thick. Most Rotor manufacturers go with 2mm or thicker when new. At 16K miles I'm on my third set of Rotors for my very heavy Fat Tire E-bike. Bedding In Any new set of Pad's is Always required, as I mentioned earlier, and if not done correctly could Easily ruin a set of rotors and/or be dangerous to the rider who's expecting their new pads to perform out of the box, because they Won't. I highly recommend taking a look at the Park Tool YT video on the subject. You'll learn some Very useful tips in a short period of time. Abnormal Pad wear (uneven wear) is usually a symptom of improper Caliper attachment/alignment, stuck pistons within the Caliper or a Rotor that's not running true. ALWAYS give the Calipers a quick cleaning between Pad Changes. Accumulated Brake Dust WILL eventually result in Caliper Piston movement problems leading to uneven pad wear. A simple blast of DRY air works Gr8 for this (like a can of keyboard cleaner). If you don't have access to compressed air, use Q-tips dabbed in Isopropal alcohol, it'll take a bit longer than a shot of air but will leave your Calipers clean and dry. You shouldn't ever handle Brake Pads or Rotors w/ your fingers. The oils in your skin will be absorbed by the very porous pad material and will cause noise or poor breaking. Caliper mounting Screws are Often slightly different lengths, do not mix them up or you risk damaging your threaded mount posts on the Front Forks. These same attachment screws (usually "Cap" screws, or "Allen" heads) will almost always have a stack-up of "self aligning" conical washers under the head of the screw. You can see them clearly in this video. Mixing up these washers will cause alignment problems. Again, make sure they go in the same way they came when new. Also clean the Rotors w/ a good wipe of Isopropyl Alcohol on a paper towel, it will remove any oils and make the Bedding In process go much better. You guys would benefit from being a tad more thorough w/ your Why and How explanations.
you dont need any keys to replace your breakpads
Sometimes I can’t understand what is she saying at the end of her speaking…
Hydraulics on a bike. Nah. Cables are fine. Way to much work.
She has no idea what she’s doing
Its best to clean your calipers and pistons after removing the pads and before pushing the pistons back with all that dirt into the piston seals , no brainer really
de.wikipedia.org/wiki/F%C3%BChlerlehre ok german i used this for fine tuning rubbering what ever
how to buy fox fork without money? æ╞