When my son and me wanted to get into 3d printing i bought the cheapest cloned clone of a cloned a8. As expected, not very good and wobbly as hell. So i taught my son (14 and autistic) to design improvement parts to stabelise the printer. It worked a lot better. Than the mainboard fried so we remade the electronics with arduino controll. Worked a charm. We kept inproving the thing and now it prints just as well as a the ender3 we have now. Yes it was a pain at start but we learned so much from that thing. Perfect for what i bought it for.
My Prusa i3 Mk2/S has been very easy to master and use (2.5 years now). I also have a Modix Big 60 that is a very different story. When printing large, flat prints, the issues related to shrinkage or warp are greatly magnified, making it far more difficult to master. But for a 76 year old guy, it's still a ton of fun if not a BIG learning experience.
I'd recommend adding an Episode 1.5 that just does vocabulary and terminology, to help folks focus on the discussions that follow, instead of getting lost with each new term. There is a ton of specialized language, and making it less strange will work wonders for subsequent comprehension.
I looked at the ender 3 (in fact I've been looking at creatality among others for years now). Finally I decided on a ender 3 pro - an ender 3 with important upgrades (including a magnetic build plate to pop off prints). This is a great machine - not too expensive, works with minimum build, easy on the beginner and ample build space of 220 square. I would reccomend the ender 3 pro version. As mentioned, the machine is budget friendly - this means that things like cable management and other finishing touches that would complete the experience are missing. I printed upgrades such as spool holder with bearings, modified filament guide on the extruder with cable management, backplate for the control panel and extruder knob for a visual guide as to what its doing. The after market support from creatality is fair and being that it's a popular machine, a large user base to help. This is a great entry level printer and something that I would recommend to anyone
Paul Radford I believe that an normal Ender 3 is better than the pro since all the upgrades that you get from an Ender 3 pro you eventually do on the normal Ender 3 at the same or even lower price. There is also a lot more support for the Ender 3 than for the pro version.
Lot's of good advice there. My wife bought me a Velleman K8200 (3Drag) kit for Christmas in 2014. It took me a full week to build as you have to solder every wire yourself, but in doing so it taught me a lot about how it worked. After 6 months it ended up being relegated to the garage as I was very busy at work then, however since lockdown started it became a renovation project. Marlin 2 firmware upgrade, LCD display/controller added, new Z-axis, glass bed added, new 0.35mm direct drive extruder/hotend, BLTouch auto-bed levelling, linear advance activated etc etc.. So after almost six years this printer continues to improve and my knowledge of the technology does as well. It's a great hobby. FWIW: Glue Sticks were a recent addition to my armory and I would recommend them for anyone doing a large number of prints in succession or to protect the bed against PETG. I almost forgot: Octopi has been a godsend: wifi control of the printer, web cam monitoring, bed level visualisation, direct gcode manipulation and remote firmware updating ... all with an old 8 bit mega2560 board :) Who needs 32 bit?
In the end if my search I chose an Ender 3. And so far, (6 months) my experience has been fantastic. I bought 7 spools of filament and a magnetic bed and it's only made the experience better. I'm just a hobbyist and part time prototyper. I get most of my filament from Hatchbox and its consistency across colors is within 5-10 degrees Celsius.
I looked at the ender 3 (in fact I've been looking at creatality among others for years now). Finally I decided on a ender 3 pro - an ender 3 with important upgrades (including a magnetic build plate to pop off prints). This is a great machine - not too expensive, works with minimum build, easy on the beginner and ample build space of 220 square. I would reccomend the ender 3 pro version. As mentioned, the machine is budget friendly - this means that things like cable management and other finishing touches that would complete the experience are missing. I printed upgrades such as spool holder with bearings, modified filament guide on the extruder with cable management, backplate for the control panel and extruder knob for a visual guide as to what its doing. The after market support from creatality is fair and being that it's a popular machine, a large user base to help. This is a great entry level printer and something that I would recommend to anyone
The Prusa Mini has an all metal hotend, not a PTFE-lined one! The PTFE Tube from the coldend goes inside the heatbreak, but "only" about 2/3 of the length of the heatbreak. So it does not go through down to the nozzle. Even if nozzle has 215°C, the heat reaching the PTFE-Tube is normaly less than 60°C. So nothing near the temperature to damage the tube. But if extruding very slow or with many retractions, the temperature might be slightly higer - so if using PLA the filament can be soft at the point where All-metal and PTFE meet. This caused often clogging while printing certain structures with many retracts. The Bondtech heatbreak has a longer all-metal part and the tube reaches less in it. Changing to the bondtech heatbreak ended all ny troubles with thw Mini clogging.
Thanks for the info! I'll be deep-diving into the Mini after this series and I'll definitely be looking into how exactly the hotend is built and performs.
Thomas Sanladerer Hello and thanks for your great videos. Which printer would you recommend to someone new to the hobby if money and bed size differences aren’t an issue ? Mini or MK3S ?
You can also see the "Flashes" where he edits the video. I don't like these videoes because of that. He either got the printers free for this review or he is getting paid to do a Prusa Printer review or both, free and paid. So, having said that, he is not going to show the results that failed, Only the best results. After all, He is getting a free printer or is being paid or both so, naturally he has an obligation to the sponsor to "Sell" their printer. Also, these are new out of the box printers. Let's face it, ALL printers do the same thing, just some do it a bit differently because of the parts that are used in producing the printers. I have a 3D printer that cost me about $150.00. Right out of the box it did an awesome job! But less than a month later, it started screwing up. Before you purchase any printer, got to a reddit that is for the printer you want and read some of the posts there. You will find that the Prusa MK3S+ did the same thing mine did for a couple of people. And it costs a whole lot more.
Ah boy, I would love a Prusa but to expensive in South Africa. I am a huge fan of Creality and their printers but I am yet to find a perfect consumer printer, you need to be a bit of a tinkerer or DIYer. Thanks for the video Thomas, always love your videos. I just reviewed the LD-002R and am very impressed by it but it requires more patience and processing.
I have an Ender 3, with a Ton of Upgrades. Great printer, but a lot of work. Have you Seen the Ender 3 V2 yet? It has substantial Upgrades over the old Ender 3s
@@leok8183 I agree I have a ender 3, with alot of upgrades, great machine if you like to tinker. Personally indont see the point of the ender 3 v2. Its nearly as expensive as the new cr6 and the cr6 has much more features.
I went for the Prusa i3 Mk3 kit almost 2 years ago for a couple of main reasons - cheaper than the pre-built (I ended spending the difference on Prusa filament), and since it's my first 3D printer the learning experience about what all the parts are and how they interact was invaluable, and the huge detailed build manual is great for the rare occasion I need to adjust/fix something.
To add to the Bowden versus direct drive differences. + Bowden will print approximately 1/3 faster at the same quality and generally has a low surface area so you can print more parts one at a time versus all at once. This is nice when printing 3 parts and 50% through the print something happens, you still have one good printed part instead of a lot of waisted plastic. - heat crepe (when the filament deforms and does not make it to the hot end) is more common with Bowden set ups which will end your print. + Direct drives I find to be more reliable and more versatile as you are pushing filament Only a small distance. I run a UM2 w/ e3d v6 and prusa i3 mk3s like both but they have different strengths.
Prusa has fantastic documentation on how to build their printer. Great way to build a reliable printer and learn about it's function too. One thing to note is that delta and to a lesser extent, coreXY has a lot more calculations to make for the motors as it is printing and do need a 32 bit controller. I am looking forward to the corexy prusa is developing. Would be really cool if it could be made to print in realy hot engineering plastics.
I'm thinking of buying a 3d printer and I am considering 2 right now, the cr10 or the artillery x1. Idk which to choose. Somebody help me out or tell me of a better printer that is under 600 dollars and is available on amazon. I want a really reliable printer which needs minima work to get running and wont run into too many issues along the way while not needing mods for good prints.
What info got I by seeing some box shifting? Prusa makes some filament - not more. As the specifics of each box are blurry. Or in other words I have ears. And for speed you could drive your sports car on german Autobahn-network at max speed but body of car conforms to obstacle form and body of driver that what mess of car is after that. But unfortunaly car and driver aren't from TPU/TPE but obstacles mostly happen to be at 100 % infill with no intentional hollow parts.
I've had my Ender 3 Pro for about two, two and a half weeks now... and I'll admit to doing a few mods on it already, but most of them are pretty much cosmetic, and assist mods. A backplate for the control panel, a PSU fan cover, a filament guide, a z-axis knob, an extruder knob (need to reprint - the one with Baby Yoda is a tad too small), and a drawer I'm "meh" about. About the only mechanical piece I upgraded was replacement springs on the buildplate... and I'm still having a few leveling issues. Then again, the poor thing is plopped down on my computer desk, and it's new home is being constructed in stages because it's owner is currently weak as a kitten. But I'll get there.
OMG, totally agreed on the spec lists advertised by manufacturers. I've seen one claim 50 micron (0.05mm) Z resolution, but their own software didn't have any profiles at that resolution. It was a setting profile that people with years of experience with the machine (their designers and engineers) painstakingly customized for the prints they had in their gallery.
For a month to print four same Items (Check out 4:41), you can handle more effictive to reduce. So I´m not sure you wanted to assign how many days you can push the slicer (or how many days it will take to generate g-code) or something. Just increase layer height or use bigger nozzle to improve.
Hey Thomas! Thank you so much for this series! Love the clear explanations, the examples and most particularly the way you recap the key points at the end of the video. Great content! (An aerospace engineer potentially looking into buying myself one soon).
Watched this about a month ago and it helped me choose a filament printer (ender 3 v2) instead of a resin printer. I'm very happy with that choice. Tank you!
@@JayV27 The only experience I have is with the V 2, but I think that the tensioners, display and 32 bit boards are worth the extra money (I've had use of all of them and would miss it if they weren't there). The glass bed has been good with PLA as long as I keep it clean, but I'm scared to damage it with PETG so that might be something to consider in favour of the pro. (Personally I'll just get another plate for it). In general, I'm very happy with my purchase. It wasn't hard to assemble and is rather easy to use. I would recommend it to almost anyone as their first or only printer unless you know very specifically what niche thing you want to do with your printer. There seem to be faster and bigger/more space efficient options for higher prices and cheaper, smaller options if you only want to make small PLA ornaments. But if you have the money you could probably just get another printer later Tl:dr I recommend getting the ender 3 V2 as a good value allround hobby printer.
'A printer should be at least usable out of the box I think'. I agree, which is why I sent the Creality CR-10 back to China. It came with 3 major issues. I did a video diagnosing it before I sent it back.
I watch your vids for the first time and I appreciate the length of detail u go I to thank you brother. I am looking to print ghost guns for film and play.
This is like an infomercial for prusa printers - which i don't mind. I had a tarantula but I couldn't keep the bed hot enough for abs. So many issues and constant fixing, I had to get rid of it. Any recommendations for a designer that wants a printer that "just works" ???
I did a stupid thing and bought a broken modded printer. I've been quite lucky but I do have a few things to sort....It prints reasonably well thankfully!
i really love the idea you had with this video-series. A few days ago i was discussing with a friend why there was no proper 3Dprinting-Wiki and that it would absolutly make sense to have something like that.
I ordered the Elegoo Neptune 3 as my first, seems to check a lot of boxes. My only gripe so far is the software, its Cura, but its their own version of it. Would prefer if companies just put out profiles for Cura.
The cars becoming popular are those from the late 80’s through the late 90’s. But unlike cars from the 50’s and 60’s that have metal interior parts, cars from the 80’s and 90’s have plastic interior parts that after a decade or more of UV exposure, armorall, etc... have become brittle or have started to disintegrate. So I’m looking at 3D printers to make new pieces for cars like Fox Body Mustangs, 3rd generation Camaros / Firebirds. But I don’t know what “size” printer to get and I’d like one that can use polycarbonate filament. So long and short, any suggestions?
I always told myself, if I started my own CZcams channel, this would be one of my first videos. Now I can just point folks here. And I agree completely. There is no one "perfect" printer. The real question is "What is best for what I want to do?"
I have Anycubic Mega-S and Ender 3 Pro, both are great devices. Mega was my first printer and it had a lot of issues - poor quality parts (bearings), bad assembly, 2x defective thermistors, no compatible silicone socks at that time. I spent a lot of time tinkering, reassembling and upgrading it to get a decent print quality. I'm using it for more than a year, now it has an amazing print quality! On the other hand, Ender 3 Pro was my second machine, it was much, much better out of the box. The only part I bought was SKR mini E3 to get silent drivers. If you're new in 3D printing and don't want to spend a lof of time and cash for this hobby, just order an Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro on sale for 160/210 bucks (hint: never buy Creality's plastic, it is literally a junk!)
I loved this video. It was on point. You missed the size of the nozzles. But everything was right. You make amazing videos. People always try to go head first and can't even print one thing and quit and not have fun. Everything you said was correct start simple with a built printer.
As usual, buying used might be a good option if you're on a budget - it may allow you to get a better quality unit with more comfort features, than buying new, and has a good chance of coming with a list of common-weak-spot upgrades already. This is one area where for my part, I would recommend checking out forums and maker spaces to hear around if someone is selling. With something like consumer/hobbyist 3D printing, that is still in many ways in its toddler years (infancy would not be true anymore), buying from an engaged enthusiast may be very beneficial. Far more likely that they know the machine well, knew what they were doing during use, upgrades and mainenace, and put real time and effort into it. They are also more likely to be able to share more useful information about it, experiences using and maintaining it, any shortcomings and signs of wear etc. If available, a maker space may add a cherry on top, as you might be able to observe how the potential seller treats equipment and machinery.
I would like to work with high temperatures e.g. with PC. Do I have to remove a component on the Prusa Mini and install a better component? Do I have to remove a component on the Prusa Mini and install a better component? Case yes, which component? Thank you.
ASA on a Teflon lined hotend "makes it by that much" temperature wise. PETG might also work, I've seen it spec'd at 230C though I print at 240C (which is balls to the wall for a lined hot end). I'm using an all metal hot end. Delta and CoreXY printers tax the resources of the older 8 bit AVR processors, especially with a graphical LCD display. For Cartesian printers the AVR processors are fine. Eventually someone will come out with a 3.3 volt logic version of the RAMPS shield to be compatible with the new Adafruit Grand Central Station Arm Cortex M4 Arduino Mega format board. Marlin has already been ported to this processor, all I'd need would be a suitable RAMPS board.
I started out with a DIY kit. The Anet A8. Just so I'd know how it works. It is still my go-to printer 4 printers later. Now thinking about resin but not sure how well one would do in my Pheonix summer heated garage.
I can't think of any questions that weren't answered here thanks. I think always check reviews on the machine you choose but taken with a grain of salt
I’m not sure if you addressed this yet. But how noisy are the printers. If I had 8 running 24/7 ? Would I need them to be isolated from the rest of the house?
Tom: let me explain hot ends... CZcams: let me interrupt and play an ad about the mark forged printer that most of you who are watching this because you are learning about 3D printers will not be able to afford... enjoy...
I am thinking of possibly getting a resin printer for figures and fun stuff like that, and get a more adaptable and hobby like filament printer that I would learn from.
I have fried my electronics several times, and when buying new set of them, found that the 32 bit and 8 bit was the same. and the 32 bit included 4 tmc2130 drivers, for the same price. now my printer works silently, but needed to configure my machine.
Very nice tutorial Thomas I would like to start with 3D printing. For me the most important thing is printing and concentrating on the 3D part, not fiddling with the printer. For the last month i have viewed a lot of reviews on CZcams of the Prusa mini. There are people who loved it and some say that it doesn’t work and you need to bay some aftermarket parts. If I spend 400Euro’s for something that doesn’t work it's a lost of money and I would rather spend some extra euro's for something that works. My question, would you recommend for a novice the Prusa mini or the I3 MK3S?
You seem to have missed one important (in my view) feature of some 32 bit controllers. They have CDC usb serial. Ie they don't have baud rates. It always transfers as fast to usb2 speeds as it can. This stops buffer run out when you have lots of little moves and serial cant keep up, it also means uploads to SD card are quick. Also it means that the user cannot chose the incorrect baud rate in their host program as they all work! For this feature alone a 32bit controller is a must!
Firstly, Thankyou Thomas for doing this series. I've been watching you since before I bought my first printer. I wish I had this series then as like most of us I made some poor and dangerous choices with my first one. If I can make a personal statement on that subject if you're getting into printing I would hesitate to buy a used printer that has been modded and or needs a "quick fix". Unless you really know what your doing it can be super dangerous. For me it was buying a modded but unfunctional Anet 8. Once I realized how dangerous it was even new but how worse it was because of the changes from the prior owner I sold it off. Yes I did ensure the person buying it understood all this, I actually lost a lot of cash on that deal because of it. I was though able to print a few benchies with it and learned a lot about how printers work in general since I had taken the thing fully apart and rebuilt it. Anyways.. thanks again good sir I look forward to ep3! -max
You forgot to Talk about 1 Thing imo, which is how much to pay for a 3d printer. Buy cheap and diy Upgrades, or buy one which already has everything you want. I started with an Ender 3 late 2018, Just because i was interested, and without any knowledge about why and how to use a 3d printer. It was a frustrating, but rewarding experience so far. My Firmware was faulty from the start and the Board died about 6 weeks in. Smart me bought an MKS Gen L Board, TMC2208s, bltouch, broke everything, bought replacements and started again. A few weeks later, i had a working printer again, and even though i just configured pre-existing firmware and rewired the whole machine, it felt like i built and prorammed the whole Thing myself.
In my experience, 8 bit boards do have one noticeable drawback: they like to struggle at times if being fed over a serial connection (let's say by Octoprint). The chip has do all the kinematic calculations and realtime hardware I/O, which it can just about handle. Add the serial buffer processing to that and your 8 bit chip gets dangerously close to its limits. I can verify on my 8 bit machine that "more complicated" prints with curved surfaces yield superior results with direct SD-card printing compared to tethered printing. I could not observe that with my 32 bit machine. And then, Marlin 2 runs on 32 bit boards with the same code base so there is no sensible reason not to use 32 bit in 2020.
Před 4 lety
Klipper or similar software solves that if you have a spare rpi. It's definitely not for newbies though.
Delta and Cartesian aren t the only solution. Nice for new users of your Channel, but not the end. I really liked the video of the hanging printer this is an stepdown. And a Carthesian doesn t need an moved bed like your Prusa. There are more solutions for FDM or FFF. Also there is a way to print mechanical parts with Resin, don t use the "PLA-Resin" for this. in that way it is an Prusa advertising for there FDm printers.
Almost there! But you, unfortunately, jumped to some topics without context. What is the slicer? I mean sure. But you seem to be confirming what the article that initiated these videos said.
Defending the Resin printers with the "You can't watch them until 1 hour in" aspect: You can pause them without any issues normally at any point to see if something goes wrong very early on.
"If I had to choose between a flex bed and ABL..."? Inductive ABL is less than 5€, a flexbed with PEI powder coated spring steel in size for the Ender 3 is less than 25€ (Aliexpress / Energetic 3d store). A BL-Touch is about 40€ (if you have a glas surface, you can not use inductive sensor). So ABL+Springsteel is less expansive than ABL only, so there is no choise between them. Of course, as you can get a semi-automatic BL with a film-probe to put onto the nozzle for 2€ or less - and it is quite easy to setup. Also: if you choose an pei powder coated spring steel, you need ABL. There is simply no way to use it without ABL, as the distance between nozzle and surface have to be adjusted much more precise than with a glas bed. The glas bed will forgive much more fluction in the distance without having problems with adheason. Thats the reason the Mini is sold with a smooth flexplate and the PEI powdercoated one is only sold as extra. Never used the smooth spring steel on my mini, I much prefer the powder coated one by the way.
@18:13 Me, when buyng a tronxy X5Sa Pro. I had to mod it to actually make it work. Now only the frame and the display is left of it. :D You should se the look of some group members when they see a E3D Gold edition hotend with a ruby nozzle running on a tronxy printer :))
I've never used a resin printer so everything in going to say it pointless. But, for what it's worth I think fdm is probably the best way to get started. Maybe not though 🤔.
You talk about 'the community', are you going to explain what/where this is? Also, any recommendations on a flexible bed please? I've tried a couple and they just warp very quickly. Thanks
FDM definitely beats sla printing for beginners. Simply because of the ease of use of the material. Sla printers are easier to setup but the resin is really nasty. But as a beginner you should definitely avoid most 3d printer kits. There are some that work but solving print problems resulting from the assembly can be tough if you are new.
Good stuff, but overwhelming. I just want to know what to try for my second attempt at 3d printing. I have an old metal frame one I never got working right and I expect it is best to just start over now.
Do you have any recommendations for a cheaper printer? I want to get into 3d printing but I'm a student and on a budget so I can't afford an overly expensive printer but dont want to waste money if the cheaper one won't work well
I hope you can help with a question. I have a new sidewinder x1 and so far I love it, except when I print something with supports. It seems to make a real mess where the supports are. The other areas so really good detail. It's not just where they attach, but near it. Any ideas. All my flat prints come out fantastic! Thanks
Great video, i know that this is for beginners, but is also usefull for people like me. I have build my 1st 3d printer 2 years ago (a Flyingbear Tornado v1) , it was a bet to buy that one, but i got it printing very well and i´m really happy with it, i´ve done some upgrades to it over the time. (PSU, mosfet, frame contruction, etc) Now i want to have some of the newest features (better drivers/flexible plate/better hotend/).. but since i have it working pretty well, i´m between buying better components and keep all the motion system, etc. or just buy a new printer, wich will cost more for sure since i will be buying an all new kinematic system. i think that there are a lot of makers like me with older printers and a little short on budget. and maybe you can make a video talking about differente upgrades, etc..
My interpretation was that he didn't *dismiss* CoreXY, but rather grouped it with cartesian and H-bot (which a lot of people confuse with CoreXY) in a generic "printers with perpendicular axes" category (as opposed to deltas, SCARAs, polars, etc.) that he named "cartesian" for simplicity. From the video's transcript (07:38 onwards): “For the sake of keeping this video short-ish, I’ll generalize all printers that have their movement axes perpendicular as “cartesian” machines, where the other category is “delta” printers.” His point was that delta printers' complex kinematics mean that problems with the setup can be extremely hard to troubleshoot, and that just doesn't apply to cartesian, CoreXY, or H-bot (as far as I'm aware). CoreXY and H-bot are a little more complex than regular cartesian designs, but nowhere near as complex as deltas, where all three motors control all three axes!
It's wrong that bigger printers have problems moving the bed in y direction. The do not need to move the bed in y direction, insteat move the printhead in x,y and the bed only z, which is rarely moved. See CoreXY.
I would like to make motorcycle tank half shells for custom painting. They would be L24"xW12"xH10" and 2mm thick. These are normally made of fiberglass but I'm curious to see how a 3d printer manages. Compared to some of the intricate designs I've seen with a 3D printer, this would be very simple. It's the size that could take the time. The finish doesn't have to be perfect, I will fill any imperfections, auto prime and sand them. I would be looking for a 3d printer that can make these pretty fast. Are there any suggestions as to a model I could use or should I go back to Fiberglass? Thanks
I was really looking forward to you going over steps that your viewers could try if there are having problems. I for one don't care about the history behind printers I want help with the problematic issues while trying to print items. It is understood this is a huge undertaking but so far can't find a LIVE interaction with help in this environment. There is no nice way to say this so I hope I have not offended your users and followers rest assured I won't troll your channel for me it is easier to move along in search of the elusive solutions which is 3D printing.
HI, Loved this video. My 5 cents worth. Not sure what you call a printer with a Printbed that moves only on the Z axis, with the printhead moving on the X and Y axis. Like the Ender 5 from Creality. When you want to buy a printer for use, not moding look for the following: (I am VERY lucky here) How close is your nearest supplier/shop where you can buy a printer. (I have 2 shops, 8km and 12km away from my home) Do they just supply parts (The 12km shop) Or do they supply support, assembly assistance and other advice (The 8km shop) Do they give a warranty on the printer? If you want to mod your printer, do they have parts and advice (The 8km shop. A shop close by means you don't have to wait for the printer to arrive. No fear of a kickstarter failing and loosing your money. I bought an Ender 3 because all I needed was basic PLA printing. And there is plenty of spares and mods available for this printer. I just did basic mods. Replacing the basic fibre flex plate it came with when it wore out with a Creality magnetic flex plate. A side mounted adapter I printed from CHEP's design to easy the filament feeding (I had break offs, many of them due to the angle) And an overhead light. And a cover for my screen back. Last but not least, a micro SD to SD coverter cable to make chaning the card much easier than looking for that small slot while my hand is in its own shadow.... Total cost of all the mods was ZAR700 that is about 35 Euro's
What is the best low price printer that has a big enough bed that it can print most things but still prints with high detail as well? I want something that has a small ish footprint but don't sacrifice print area and is in the price range of 200$?
When my son and me wanted to get into 3d printing i bought the cheapest cloned clone of a cloned a8. As expected, not very good and wobbly as hell. So i taught my son (14 and autistic) to design improvement parts to stabelise the printer. It worked a lot better. Than the mainboard fried so we remade the electronics with arduino controll. Worked a charm. We kept inproving the thing and now it prints just as well as a the ender3 we have now. Yes it was a pain at start but we learned so much from that thing. Perfect for what i bought it for.
That’s awesome!
That's very impressive.
Nice, I have almost no electronics skills, so have to look at others for those things. Reading this is awesome!
Wow, I love seeing the innovation in this comment and that you're teaching your son those awesome qualities as well!
@@MrGerhardGrobler
I've only electronic kills.....
My Prusa i3 Mk2/S has been very easy to master and use (2.5 years now). I also have a Modix Big 60 that is a very different story. When printing large, flat prints, the issues related to shrinkage or warp are greatly magnified, making it far more difficult to master. But for a 76 year old guy, it's still a ton of fun if not a BIG learning experience.
That transition at 13:52 was seamless AF. Nice job, Tom!
I was literally about to say the same thing, gotta respect some creative ways to make what was a terrible transition absolutely beautiful!
I'd recommend adding an Episode 1.5 that just does vocabulary and terminology, to help folks focus on the discussions that follow, instead of getting lost with each new term. There is a ton of specialized language, and making it less strange will work wonders for subsequent comprehension.
Keep your eyes peeled for Ep4 😉
I think he did a 50 3D Printing terms in 5 Minutes video.
Agree… two types of “Hotent” “Hardend” “Hot end”??? Lined and all metal.
@@daviddempsey8721 Those remind me of dates I've had...
I looked at the ender 3 (in fact I've been looking at creatality among others for years now). Finally I decided on a ender 3 pro - an ender 3 with important upgrades (including a magnetic build plate to pop off prints). This is a great machine - not too expensive, works with minimum build, easy on the beginner and ample build space of 220 square. I would reccomend the ender 3 pro version.
As mentioned, the machine is budget friendly - this means that things like cable management and other finishing touches that would complete the experience are missing. I printed upgrades such as spool holder with bearings, modified filament guide on the extruder with cable management, backplate for the control panel and extruder knob for a visual guide as to what its doing.
The after market support from creatality is fair and being that it's a popular machine, a large user base to help.
This is a great entry level printer and something that I would recommend to anyone
Paul Radford I believe that an normal Ender 3 is better than the pro since all the upgrades that you get from an Ender 3 pro you eventually do on the normal Ender 3 at the same or even lower price. There is also a lot more support for the Ender 3 than for the pro version.
Lot's of good advice there. My wife bought me a Velleman K8200 (3Drag) kit for Christmas in 2014. It took me a full week to build as you have to solder every wire yourself, but in doing so it taught me a lot about how it worked. After 6 months it ended up being relegated to the garage as I was very busy at work then, however since lockdown started it became a renovation project. Marlin 2 firmware upgrade, LCD display/controller added, new Z-axis, glass bed added, new 0.35mm direct drive extruder/hotend, BLTouch auto-bed levelling, linear advance activated etc etc.. So after almost six years this printer continues to improve and my knowledge of the technology does as well. It's a great hobby. FWIW: Glue Sticks were a recent addition to my armory and I would recommend them for anyone doing a large number of prints in succession or to protect the bed against PETG.
I almost forgot: Octopi has been a godsend: wifi control of the printer, web cam monitoring, bed level visualisation, direct gcode manipulation and remote firmware updating ... all with an old 8 bit mega2560 board :) Who needs 32 bit?
In the end if my search I chose an Ender 3. And so far, (6 months) my experience has been fantastic. I bought 7 spools of filament and a magnetic bed and it's only made the experience better. I'm just a hobbyist and part time prototyper. I get most of my filament from Hatchbox and its consistency across colors is within 5-10 degrees Celsius.
I looked at the ender 3 (in fact I've been looking at creatality among others for years now). Finally I decided on a ender 3 pro - an ender 3 with important upgrades (including a magnetic build plate to pop off prints). This is a great machine - not too expensive, works with minimum build, easy on the beginner and ample build space of 220 square. I would reccomend the ender 3 pro version.
As mentioned, the machine is budget friendly - this means that things like cable management and other finishing touches that would complete the experience are missing. I printed upgrades such as spool holder with bearings, modified filament guide on the extruder with cable management, backplate for the control panel and extruder knob for a visual guide as to what its doing.
The after market support from creatality is fair and being that it's a popular machine, a large user base to help.
This is a great entry level printer and something that I would recommend to anyone
What kind of magnetic bed are you using?
@@Taconiteable I'm using the Ender brand magnetic bed from Amazon. It's easy to apply and only requires a few bed level adjustments.
@@Taconiteable I have the c-mag bed that comes with the e3 pro. Though I believe this is upgradeable..
I went with the Aquila. Same thing, very nice machine
13:53 Heated bed: "I don't feel so good..."
nice
It was such a good transition.
phaha
I understood that reference
I like your reviews because they're very thorough, rather than just a 2 cent overview.
The Prusa Mini has an all metal hotend, not a PTFE-lined one!
The PTFE Tube from the coldend goes inside the heatbreak, but "only" about 2/3 of the length of the heatbreak. So it does not go through down to the nozzle. Even if nozzle has 215°C, the heat reaching the PTFE-Tube is normaly less than 60°C. So nothing near the temperature to damage the tube.
But if extruding very slow or with many retractions, the temperature might be slightly higer - so if using PLA the filament can be soft at the point where All-metal and PTFE meet. This caused often clogging while printing certain structures with many retracts. The Bondtech heatbreak has a longer all-metal part and the tube reaches less in it. Changing to the bondtech heatbreak ended all ny troubles with thw Mini clogging.
Thanks for the info! I'll be deep-diving into the Mini after this series and I'll definitely be looking into how exactly the hotend is built and performs.
Thomas Sanladerer Hello and thanks for your great videos. Which printer would you recommend to someone new to the hobby if money and bed size differences aren’t an issue ? Mini or MK3S ?
Waouh I didn't thought the second episode would come so fast after the first one!
that's what she said...
Didn't thought? Seriously?
you can see how many takes he does by watching the printer :D
You can also see the "Flashes" where he edits the video. I don't like these videoes because of that. He either got the printers free for this review or he is getting paid to do a Prusa Printer review or both, free and paid. So, having said that, he is not going to show the results that failed, Only the best results. After all, He is getting a free printer or is being paid or both so, naturally he has an obligation to the sponsor to "Sell" their printer. Also, these are new out of the box printers.
Let's face it, ALL printers do the same thing, just some do it a bit differently because of the parts that are used in producing the printers. I have a 3D printer that cost me about $150.00. Right out of the box it did an awesome job! But less than a month later, it started screwing up. Before you purchase any printer, got to a reddit that is for the printer you want and read some of the posts there. You will find that the Prusa MK3S+ did the same thing mine did for a couple of people. And it costs a whole lot more.
@@paulreeder5241maybe you don't understand what the word "sponsored" means, but yes, the videos are sponsored.
I love how you are talking while a printer is running and I didn't even notice. That inspires confidence that you know your stuff.
Ah boy, I would love a Prusa but to expensive in South Africa. I am a huge fan of Creality and their printers but I am yet to find a perfect consumer printer, you need to be a bit of a tinkerer or DIYer. Thanks for the video Thomas, always love your videos. I just reviewed the LD-002R and am very impressed by it but it requires more patience and processing.
Yeah, the creality machines are great
I have an Ender 3, with a Ton of Upgrades. Great printer, but a lot of work.
Have you Seen the Ender 3 V2 yet?
It has substantial Upgrades over the old Ender 3s
@@leok8183 I agree I have a ender 3, with alot of upgrades, great machine if you like to tinker. Personally indont see the point of the ender 3 v2. Its nearly as expensive as the new cr6 and the cr6 has much more features.
13:52
That was some sweet special effects. 👍
I went for the Prusa i3 Mk3 kit almost 2 years ago for a couple of main reasons - cheaper than the pre-built (I ended spending the difference on Prusa filament), and since it's my first 3D printer the learning experience about what all the parts are and how they interact was invaluable, and the huge detailed build manual is great for the rare occasion I need to adjust/fix something.
To add to the Bowden versus direct drive differences.
+ Bowden will print approximately 1/3 faster at the same quality and generally has a low surface area so you can print more parts one at a time versus all at once. This is nice when printing 3 parts and 50% through the print something happens, you still have one good printed part instead of a lot of waisted plastic.
- heat crepe (when the filament deforms and does not make it to the hot end) is more common with Bowden set ups which will end your print.
+ Direct drives I find to be more reliable and more versatile as you are pushing filament Only a small distance.
I run a UM2 w/ e3d v6 and prusa i3 mk3s like both but they have different strengths.
Finally received my Prusa Mini after almost 6 months and i couldn't be happier without it!
Lol
Prusa has fantastic documentation on how to build their printer. Great way to build a reliable printer and learn about it's function too. One thing to note is that delta and to a lesser extent, coreXY has a lot more calculations to make for the motors as it is printing and do need a 32 bit controller. I am looking forward to the corexy prusa is developing. Would be really cool if it could be made to print in realy hot engineering plastics.
You uploaded right on time cuz im shopping for my first 3D printer. Got my eye on an open box Monoprice Maker Select Plus (rebrand of Wanhao i3).
I'm watching as I'm shopping for the replacement for my Monoprice Maker Select. 😆
Great job Thomas!
I watch your videos for two reason:
1) learning about 3D printers.
2) improve my English.
Greetings from Italy
I'm thinking of buying a 3d printer and I am considering 2 right now, the cr10 or the artillery x1. Idk which to choose. Somebody help me out or tell me of a better printer that is under 600 dollars and is available on amazon. I want a really reliable printer which needs minima work to get running and wont run into too many issues along the way while not needing mods for good prints.
What info got I by seeing some box shifting? Prusa makes some filament - not more. As the specifics of each box are blurry. Or in other words I have ears. And for speed you could drive your sports car on german Autobahn-network at max speed but body of car conforms to obstacle form and body of driver that what mess of car is after that. But unfortunaly car and driver aren't from TPU/TPE but obstacles mostly happen to be at 100 % infill with no intentional hollow parts.
I've had my Ender 3 Pro for about two, two and a half weeks now... and I'll admit to doing a few mods on it already, but most of them are pretty much cosmetic, and assist mods. A backplate for the control panel, a PSU fan cover, a filament guide, a z-axis knob, an extruder knob (need to reprint - the one with Baby Yoda is a tad too small), and a drawer I'm "meh" about. About the only mechanical piece I upgraded was replacement springs on the buildplate... and I'm still having a few leveling issues.
Then again, the poor thing is plopped down on my computer desk, and it's new home is being constructed in stages because it's owner is currently weak as a kitten. But I'll get there.
Been looking at the ender pro 3 but would upgrade to the auto bed leveller
@@shaunburns3332 I just bought a BL touch, just need to get it installed.
Looking forward to the rest of the series Tom! I loved the effects on the vanishing bed!
OMG, totally agreed on the spec lists advertised by manufacturers. I've seen one claim 50 micron (0.05mm) Z resolution, but their own software didn't have any profiles at that resolution. It was a setting profile that people with years of experience with the machine (their designers and engineers) painstakingly customized for the prints they had in their gallery.
For a month to print four same Items (Check out 4:41), you can handle more effictive to reduce. So I´m not sure you wanted to assign how many days you can push the slicer (or how many days it will take to generate g-code) or something. Just increase layer height or use bigger nozzle to improve.
Hey Thomas! Thank you so much for this series! Love the clear explanations, the examples and most particularly the way you recap the key points at the end of the video. Great content!
(An aerospace engineer potentially looking into buying myself one soon).
Watched this about a month ago and it helped me choose a filament printer (ender 3 v2) instead of a resin printer. I'm very happy with that choice. Tank you!
I was thinking of getting the ender 3 pro, is it worth it?
@@JayV27
The only experience I have is with the V 2, but I think that the tensioners, display and 32 bit boards are worth the extra money (I've had use of all of them and would miss it if they weren't there). The glass bed has been good with PLA as long as I keep it clean, but I'm scared to damage it with PETG so that might be something to consider in favour of the pro. (Personally I'll just get another plate for it).
In general, I'm very happy with my purchase. It wasn't hard to assemble and is rather easy to use. I would recommend it to almost anyone as their first or only printer unless you know very specifically what niche thing you want to do with your printer. There seem to be faster and bigger/more space efficient options for higher prices and cheaper, smaller options if you only want to make small PLA ornaments. But if you have the money you could probably just get another printer later
Tl:dr I recommend getting the ender 3 V2 as a good value allround hobby printer.
'A printer should be at least usable out of the box I think'. I agree, which is why I sent the Creality CR-10 back to China. It came with 3 major issues. I did a video diagnosing it before I sent it back.
I watch your vids for the first time and I appreciate the length of detail u go I to thank you brother. I am looking to print ghost guns for film and play.
I just got an upgraded Ender 3! Wish me luck this is a lot more than I can chew but I like to learn
Nice video effect with the bed disappearing into dust! Thanks for the videos and effort, my first 3d printer will be here next week!
This is like an infomercial for prusa printers - which i don't mind.
I had a tarantula but I couldn't keep the bed hot enough for abs. So many issues and constant fixing, I had to get rid of it.
Any recommendations for a designer that wants a printer that "just works" ???
I did a stupid thing and bought a broken modded printer. I've been quite lucky but I do have a few things to sort....It prints reasonably well thankfully!
i really love the idea you had with this video-series.
A few days ago i was discussing with a friend why there was no proper 3Dprinting-Wiki and that it would absolutly make sense to have something like that.
reprap.org is not as active as it once was, but it is still a good source of information.
@Thomas Sanladerer: If you were to buy your first 3D printer today which would that be? Filament box size. Max 1000EUR
Still printing and optimising my first and only printer, the Dolly MK2, though now it is 32bit with TMC 2209 and a spring steel PEI build plate.
I ordered the Elegoo Neptune 3 as my first, seems to check a lot of boxes. My only gripe so far is the software, its Cura, but its their own version of it.
Would prefer if companies just put out profiles for Cura.
The cars becoming popular are those from the late 80’s through the late 90’s. But unlike cars from the 50’s and 60’s that have metal interior parts, cars from the 80’s and 90’s have plastic interior parts that after a decade or more of UV exposure, armorall, etc... have become brittle or have started to disintegrate. So I’m looking at 3D printers to make new pieces for cars like Fox Body Mustangs, 3rd generation Camaros / Firebirds. But I don’t know what “size” printer to get and I’d like one that can use polycarbonate filament. So long and short, any suggestions?
I always told myself, if I started my own CZcams channel, this would be one of my first videos. Now I can just point folks here.
And I agree completely. There is no one "perfect" printer. The real question is "What is best for what I want to do?"
Im sorry to say that you and only you can answer that . Yes , trial and error .
I have Anycubic Mega-S and Ender 3 Pro, both are great devices. Mega was my first printer and it had a lot of issues - poor quality parts (bearings), bad assembly, 2x defective thermistors, no compatible silicone socks at that time. I spent a lot of time tinkering, reassembling and upgrading it to get a decent print quality. I'm using it for more than a year, now it has an amazing print quality! On the other hand, Ender 3 Pro was my second machine, it was much, much better out of the box. The only part I bought was SKR mini E3 to get silent drivers. If you're new in 3D printing and don't want to spend a lof of time and cash for this hobby, just order an Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro on sale for 160/210 bucks (hint: never buy Creality's plastic, it is literally a junk!)
I love the preview screen on the Prusa Mini.
I loved this video. It was on point. You missed the size of the nozzles. But everything was right. You make amazing videos. People always try to go head first and can't even print one thing and quit and not have fun. Everything you said was correct start simple with a built printer.
As usual, buying used might be a good option if you're on a budget - it may allow you to get a better quality unit with more comfort features, than buying new, and has a good chance of coming with a list of common-weak-spot upgrades already. This is one area where for my part, I would recommend checking out forums and maker spaces to hear around if someone is selling. With something like consumer/hobbyist 3D printing, that is still in many ways in its toddler years (infancy would not be true anymore), buying from an engaged enthusiast may be very beneficial. Far more likely that they know the machine well, knew what they were doing during use, upgrades and mainenace, and put real time and effort into it. They are also more likely to be able to share more useful information about it, experiences using and maintaining it, any shortcomings and signs of wear etc.
If available, a maker space may add a cherry on top, as you might be able to observe how the potential seller treats equipment and machinery.
I would like to work with high temperatures e.g. with PC. Do I have to remove a component on the Prusa Mini and install a better component? Do I have to remove a component on the Prusa Mini and install a better component? Case yes, which component? Thank you.
ASA on a Teflon lined hotend "makes it by that much" temperature wise. PETG might also work, I've seen it spec'd at 230C though I print at 240C (which is balls to the wall for a lined hot end). I'm using an all metal hot end.
Delta and CoreXY printers tax the resources of the older 8 bit AVR processors, especially with a graphical LCD display. For Cartesian printers the AVR processors are fine.
Eventually someone will come out with a 3.3 volt logic version of the RAMPS shield to be compatible with the new Adafruit Grand Central Station Arm Cortex M4 Arduino Mega format board. Marlin has already been ported to this processor, all I'd need would be a suitable RAMPS board.
Hahaha, I thought intel had the crown on products names "new Adafruit Grand Central Station Arm Cortex M4 Arduino Mega format board. "
prusa mini+ with shipping is $700+ in Canada
I started out with a DIY kit. The Anet A8. Just so I'd know how it works. It is still my go-to printer 4 printers later. Now thinking about resin but not sure how well one would do in my Pheonix summer heated garage.
I can't think of any questions that weren't answered here thanks. I think always check reviews on the machine you choose but taken with a grain of salt
My Rostock Max V2 is my best. Because it does what I want it to. After some upgrades and personal modifications
This is a brilliant series of videos. Exactly the information I needed to learn. Thanks
Agreed. A great educator
I’m not sure if you addressed this yet. But how noisy are the printers. If I had 8 running 24/7 ? Would I need them to be isolated from the rest of the house?
Tom: let me explain hot ends...
CZcams: let me interrupt and play an ad about the mark forged printer that most of you who are watching this because you are learning about 3D printers will not be able to afford... enjoy...
but it is still awesome to watch!
I wish i got those ads instead of RAID SHADOW LEGENDS...
But the Prusa ads I do get occasionally are awesome to dance to.
I am thinking of possibly getting a resin printer for figures and fun stuff like that, and get a more adaptable and hobby like filament printer that I would learn from.
I have fried my electronics several times, and when buying new set of them, found that the 32 bit and 8 bit was the same. and the 32 bit included 4 tmc2130 drivers, for the same price. now my printer works silently, but needed to configure my machine.
Really informative Thomas. Your passion for 3D printing really shines through in this video
Commenting as I move through this series for the algorithm! Great Video!
What kind of home 3d printer would you recommend for 550mm by 400mm size objects? (Ideally, not industrial and cost effective)
Everytime before I watch one of your episodes I dive into the comment section to soothe the mood!!
I wanna get into this for making Warhammer miniatures any tips?
Very nice tutorial Thomas
I would like to start with 3D printing. For me the most important thing is printing and concentrating on the 3D part, not fiddling with the printer. For the last month i have viewed a lot of reviews on CZcams of the Prusa mini. There are people who loved it and some say that it doesn’t work and you need to bay some aftermarket parts. If I spend 400Euro’s for something that doesn’t work it's a lost of money and I would rather spend some extra euro's for something that works.
My question, would you recommend for a novice the Prusa mini or the I3 MK3S?
You seem to have missed one important (in my view) feature of some 32 bit controllers. They have CDC usb serial. Ie they don't have baud rates. It always transfers as fast to usb2 speeds as it can. This stops buffer run out when you have lots of little moves and serial cant keep up, it also means uploads to SD card are quick. Also it means that the user cannot chose the incorrect baud rate in their host program as they all work! For this feature alone a 32bit controller is a must!
Nice touch with the magical vanishing print bed! :P
Firstly, Thankyou Thomas for doing this series. I've been watching you since before I bought my first printer. I wish I had this series then as like most of us I made some poor and dangerous choices with my first one. If I can make a personal statement on that subject if you're getting into printing I would hesitate to buy a used printer that has been modded and or needs a "quick fix". Unless you really know what your doing it can be super dangerous. For me it was buying a modded but unfunctional Anet 8. Once I realized how dangerous it was even new but how worse it was because of the changes from the prior owner I sold it off. Yes I did ensure the person buying it understood all this, I actually lost a lot of cash on that deal because of it. I was though able to print a few benchies with it and learned a lot about how printers work in general since I had taken the thing fully apart and rebuilt it. Anyways.. thanks again good sir I look forward to ep3! -max
I need to print very small functional parts that will be used in locks, what should I use?
You forgot to Talk about 1 Thing imo, which is how much to pay for a 3d printer. Buy cheap and diy Upgrades, or buy one which already has everything you want.
I started with an Ender 3 late 2018, Just because i was interested, and without any knowledge about why and how to use a 3d printer.
It was a frustrating, but rewarding experience so far.
My Firmware was faulty from the start and the Board died about 6 weeks in.
Smart me bought an MKS Gen L Board, TMC2208s, bltouch, broke everything, bought replacements and started again. A few weeks later, i had a working printer again, and even though i just configured pre-existing firmware and rewired the whole machine, it felt like i built and prorammed the whole Thing myself.
In my experience, 8 bit boards do have one noticeable drawback: they like to struggle at times if being fed over a serial connection (let's say by Octoprint). The chip has do all the kinematic calculations and realtime hardware I/O, which it can just about handle. Add the serial buffer processing to that and your 8 bit chip gets dangerously close to its limits. I can verify on my 8 bit machine that "more complicated" prints with curved surfaces yield superior results with direct SD-card printing compared to tethered printing. I could not observe that with my 32 bit machine. And then, Marlin 2 runs on 32 bit boards with the same code base so there is no sensible reason not to use 32 bit in 2020.
Klipper or similar software solves that if you have a spare rpi. It's definitely not for newbies though.
Great video, you've helped me taking a decision on my first 3D printer!
Delta and Cartesian aren t the only solution. Nice for new users of your Channel, but not the end. I really liked the video of the hanging printer this is an stepdown. And a Carthesian doesn t need an moved bed like your Prusa. There are more solutions for FDM or FFF. Also there is a way to print mechanical parts with Resin, don t use the "PLA-Resin" for this. in that way it is an Prusa advertising for there FDm printers.
I'm going to be running a 3d printing club at my school and these videos are a great help in giving me an idea on how to go about teaching people.
This is such a great idea!!!! Keep it up! Wish you the best!
I just bought my first 3d printer and I got the monoprice delta pro. Love it
I like how the bed he was holding disappeared into a puff of smoke. Nice video.
Why was corexy or Cartesian with bed on z was never mentioned? They have huge differences than bedslingers and deltas.
another finely crafted and HONEST look at 3D printing
Glad to see this video come out so fast. This is critical info for anyone new to printing.
Almost there! But you, unfortunately, jumped to some topics without context. What is the slicer? I mean sure. But you seem to be confirming what the article that initiated these videos said.
Defending the Resin printers with the "You can't watch them until 1 hour in" aspect: You can pause them without any issues normally at any point to see if something goes wrong very early on.
"If I had to choose between a flex bed and ABL..."? Inductive ABL is less than 5€, a flexbed with PEI powder coated spring steel in size for the Ender 3 is less than 25€ (Aliexpress / Energetic 3d store). A BL-Touch is about 40€ (if you have a glas surface, you can not use inductive sensor). So ABL+Springsteel is less expansive than ABL only, so there is no choise between them.
Of course, as you can get a semi-automatic BL with a film-probe to put onto the nozzle for 2€ or less - and it is quite easy to setup.
Also: if you choose an pei powder coated spring steel, you need ABL. There is simply no way to use it without ABL, as the distance between nozzle and surface have to be adjusted much more precise than with a glas bed. The glas bed will forgive much more fluction in the distance without having problems with adheason. Thats the reason the Mini is sold with a smooth flexplate and the PEI powdercoated one is only sold as extra. Never used the smooth spring steel on my mini, I much prefer the powder coated one by the way.
@18:13 Me, when buyng a tronxy X5Sa Pro. I had to mod it to actually make it work. Now only the frame and the display is left of it. :D You should se the look of some group members when they see a E3D Gold edition hotend with a ruby nozzle running on a tronxy printer :))
I've never used a resin printer so everything in going to say it pointless. But, for what it's worth I think fdm is probably the best way to get started. Maybe not though 🤔.
You talk about 'the community', are you going to explain what/where this is?
Also, any recommendations on a flexible bed please? I've tried a couple and they just warp very quickly. Thanks
FDM definitely beats sla printing for beginners. Simply because of the ease of use of the material. Sla printers are easier to setup but the resin is really nasty. But as a beginner you should definitely avoid most 3d printer kits. There are some that work but solving print problems resulting from the assembly can be tough if you are new.
Good stuff, but overwhelming. I just want to know what to try for my second attempt at 3d printing. I have an old metal frame one I never got working right and I expect it is best to just start over now.
Do you have any recommendations for a cheaper printer? I want to get into 3d printing but I'm a student and on a budget so I can't afford an overly expensive printer but dont want to waste money if the cheaper one won't work well
I hope you can help with a question. I have a new sidewinder x1 and so far I love it, except when I print something with supports. It seems to make a real mess where the supports are. The other areas so really good detail. It's not just where they attach, but near it. Any ideas. All my flat prints come out fantastic! Thanks
Great video, i know that this is for beginners, but is also usefull for people like me. I have build my 1st 3d printer 2 years ago (a Flyingbear Tornado v1) , it was a bet to buy that one, but i got it printing very well and i´m really happy with it, i´ve done some upgrades to it over the time. (PSU, mosfet, frame contruction, etc)
Now i want to have some of the newest features (better drivers/flexible plate/better hotend/).. but since i have it working pretty well, i´m between buying better components and keep all the motion system, etc. or just buy a new printer, wich will cost more for sure since i will be buying an all new kinematic system.
i think that there are a lot of makers like me with older printers and a little short on budget. and maybe you can make a video talking about differente upgrades, etc..
Thomas , What do you think about the Piper 3d printer?
You shouldn't have dismissed CoreXY that easily. Twotrees Sapphire might be a pretty good starting printer, with its low pricepoint!
My interpretation was that he didn't *dismiss* CoreXY, but rather grouped it with cartesian and H-bot (which a lot of people confuse with CoreXY) in a generic "printers with perpendicular axes" category (as opposed to deltas, SCARAs, polars, etc.) that he named "cartesian" for simplicity.
From the video's transcript (07:38 onwards):
“For the sake of keeping this video short-ish, I’ll generalize all printers that have their movement axes perpendicular as “cartesian” machines, where the other category is “delta” printers.”
His point was that delta printers' complex kinematics mean that problems with the setup can be extremely hard to troubleshoot, and that just doesn't apply to cartesian, CoreXY, or H-bot (as far as I'm aware). CoreXY and H-bot are a little more complex than regular cartesian designs, but nowhere near as complex as deltas, where all three motors control all three axes!
It's wrong that bigger printers have problems moving the bed in y direction. The do not need to move the bed in y direction, insteat move the printhead in x,y and the bed only z, which is rarely moved. See CoreXY.
whoaaa, that bed magic was so cool! :D
Ha yeah thought I was seeing things and had to replay.
I would like to make motorcycle tank half shells for custom painting. They would be L24"xW12"xH10" and 2mm thick. These are normally made of fiberglass but I'm curious to see how a 3d printer manages. Compared to some of the intricate designs I've seen with a 3D printer, this would be very simple. It's the size that could take the time. The finish doesn't have to be perfect, I will fill any imperfections, auto prime and sand them. I would be looking for a 3d printer that can make these pretty fast. Are there any suggestions as to a model I could use or should I go back to Fiberglass? Thanks
I was really looking forward to you going over steps that your viewers could try if there are having problems. I for one don't care about the history behind printers I want help with the problematic issues while trying to print items. It is understood this is a huge undertaking but so far can't find a LIVE interaction with help in this environment. There is no nice way to say this so I hope I have not offended your users and followers rest assured I won't troll your channel for me it is easier to move along in search of the elusive solutions which is 3D printing.
Could you please review the Jadelabo J1 next?
HI, Loved this video.
My 5 cents worth. Not sure what you call a printer with a Printbed that moves only on the Z axis, with the printhead moving on the X and Y axis. Like the Ender 5 from Creality.
When you want to buy a printer for use, not moding look for the following: (I am VERY lucky here)
How close is your nearest supplier/shop where you can buy a printer. (I have 2 shops, 8km and 12km away from my home)
Do they just supply parts (The 12km shop)
Or do they supply support, assembly assistance and other advice (The 8km shop)
Do they give a warranty on the printer?
If you want to mod your printer, do they have parts and advice (The 8km shop.
A shop close by means you don't have to wait for the printer to arrive. No fear of a kickstarter failing and loosing your money.
I bought an Ender 3 because all I needed was basic PLA printing. And there is plenty of spares and mods available for this printer.
I just did basic mods. Replacing the basic fibre flex plate it came with when it wore out with a Creality magnetic flex plate. A side mounted adapter I printed from CHEP's design to easy the filament feeding (I had break offs, many of them due to the angle)
And an overhead light.
And a cover for my screen back.
Last but not least, a micro SD to SD coverter cable to make chaning the card much easier than looking for that small slot while my hand is in its own shadow....
Total cost of all the mods was ZAR700 that is about 35 Euro's
What is the best low price printer that has a big enough bed that it can print most things but still prints with high detail as well? I want something that has a small ish footprint but don't sacrifice print area and is in the price range of 200$?
I mean... That's of a tough wishlist.
What starting printer would you recommend though?
I got an Ender, it’s been nothing but trouble, it just broke and I need a 3d printer to fix it. It’s all trouble and problems, so I ordered an X1C
Hey, I always see you wearing really good looking shirts/sweatshirts and i wanted to ask where you get them from. bit of an odd question lol
Are you saying 'hot end' or 'hoten'? If it's the latter then what's a hoten?