How to Adjust Valves on a CFMOTO
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Need to adjust valves on a CFMOTO or even a side by side? this step by step how to will help you gain a better understanding.
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inspecting and adjusting valve clearance is not overly complicated, it is just time-consuming. Quite honestly once you have a basic understanding of how to check the valve timing, you quickly realize that removing the plastics is the most complicated part of this process.
Step 1. Remove the Plastics
The first part you need to do is get all the plastics out of the way. It's recommended that you start with the seats, then move on to the center counsel. After that, unfortunately your attention will go to the gas tank which has to be removed.
Step 2: Remove Additional Parts
The hard part of prep is now over and you can focus on the engine. You will want to remove the fan cover so that you can move the Camshaft, which will be needed to ensure it is Top Dead Center (TDC). You should then be able move onto removing the spark plugs and the valve covers. To keep dirt and dust from getting into the valves, it is recommended that you only remove one valve cover at a time. once the valve clearance has been checked for one side, cover it back up and move to the other.
Step 3: Inspecting and Adjusting Valve Clearance
Once you have the valve covers off, you will need to determine how to identify if your valves are at TopbDead Center (TDC). This will vary by machine and model, so you will want to verify the method used to identify TDC for your machine. Once you determine you are at TDC you can start inspection your valves.
The best method for understanding this process is probably to watch the video. In short, you will find the allowable tolerance level for your machine and use a feeder gauge to measure the space between the valve head and the acrew where it gets pushed down. If adjustments are needed you will loosen the bolt, turn the screw to get the appropriate clearance level, and tighten. Make sure to check your valve timing again once you have retightened your screw to ensure you are within tolerance.
Once you do this with the first valve, it will be even easier to complete this process for the other valves. one final note, make sure you identify which valves are intake and which are exhaust valves. They will probably have different tolerances, so you will want to ensure you know which valves are intake versus exhaust.
Once this is done, you can start reversing the process and putting it all back together. If you have other maintenance or new parts you plan to install though, this could be a great time to do it as you already have so much of the machine taken apart.
We hope this is helpful and as always, we hope to see you on the trial!
I work on all my CFMOTO machines. We have a 800ex and 500 trail. Ive done videos on easy cheap clutch kits, ecu tuning, and performance exhaust and much much more. I have a ton of CFMOTO videos for anyone who needs some information. Great video happy to see more youtubers coming to light.
How do I replace timing chain or more less get too dead center correctly in both cylinder
Awesome. Ill look you up. Ive got a new 800 XC and wow!. . I did a lot of thought and reading before I bought it and have had nothing but fun. But the nearest shop is 40 miles away and the place I bought it closer to 100.
@@Ulfthednar definitely get with me buddy. I just got a cforce 600 and love it also. Very very nice CFMOTO machines. Check out my 10 thousand sub video I just did and I hit some jumps with the 600 in that video.
@@R.N.GPerformance right? Ive been a minor gearhead for . . ooff . . almost forty years. I looked real close at the CFs I could find and the more I dig into my new 800xc . . theyve done a fine job. The fit and finish is really good on it. You do NOT find that on junk. This is my first ATV, Ive done most of my time on old harleys, but Ive already exceeded most of the videos Ive seen just in my backyard (hill country). I have a roughly a 30 to 40 degree hill for a backyard. The 800 will pull it in Two high on loose fist sized (bullrock) stone and dirt. I tried it in 4locked and about ripped my arms off hanging on. Read the manual, theyre not kidding. If you dont need 4 wheel, dont use it, these things will drift around a dunce cap at 30 in 2 high (and Im a complete newb at ATVs.). The steering is pretty good in 2w but slower in 4wheel (just like the manual says) and a bear in 4lock. The manual also clearly states to get on it and lock the clutches up, that your not supposed to ease into the clutch (guilty at first). The suspension is great. (might be better mechs at the shop I bought it at) and it barely rolls when Im drifting around the 120 foot tall bullpine (white pine) in my yard. I'm looking forward to a lot of fun on this machine.
@@Ulfthednar yea CFMOTO did a fine job they aren’t your average Chinese junk. Definitely good quality for the $$$ spent. Allot of power for sure.
Thank you thank you thank you! I’m so glad you made this video. I’ve had the instructions and pics, but a video is so much more helpful! Thanks Chris, awesome job!
Thanks, Kevin! I really appreciate that and I'm glad it is beneficial. I really hope it helps!
He beat me to it didn’t he 😂
Nice job, thanks 👍
Helping a lot of people, it's not difficult.
Something everyone should managed to do 🙂
I use wire cutters to get those rivets out. Just don't squeeze too tight, hahaha. Good work Chris. Riding season approaches.
Good idea! Thanks for the input and compliment, Rodney.
Can't wait for the spring rides!
I friggin hate those GD plastic rivets too! 🤣 Thanks for the video. I’m sure I’ll have to do the same on my U1000 sometime in the next 6-7 months. 👍🏼
Hope it helps Dezfan! Obviously there will be some differences but this should at least get you 90% there.
This seems much easier that lots of other machines I’ve seeb
friend could you tell me what calibration the valves carry
My experience with valve adjustment is intake valves usually get more clearance over time and exhaust valve adjustment gets tighter over time. So I adjust intake valves at the low end of specs. and the exhaust valve at the high end of specs. I do it that way so I don’t have to do it for a long time or if ever again.
My old school shovelhead exhibits the same characteristics. Granted it is air cooled and Ive found that I need to leave the rear exhaust pushrod just a tad looser than the rest, because it gets the least amount of airflow. That was actually a question I had about this.
The push pins are actually pretty easy to get out. You can use a small straight blade screw driver or they do make a little removal tool for them :-) It's a 2 prong "fork" tool, any auto parts store should carry them.
Yes I have one of those tools, make getting those out easy.
Thanks for the info and tip, gents! I do use a flat head but it never seems to work well and take a forever. I'm going to look for one of those tools next time I'm at the auto parts store.
You can buy a whole kit of those clips and the tool for around $30 on Amazon.
Awesome, thanks Brad! Definitely going to check that out.
@@NavigateOffroad yup, you can buy a basic "trim removal" kit at oreillys or a larger kit online.
They make plastic fastener removal tools. I like replacing the oem rivets with the nicer ones that you can pull the middle insert out and just pull them out. Put em back in and push the middle insert back in.
Is this the same way on a zforce 500 trail?
i'm at 288kms on mine, will be doing that myself.
like the machine but man there quality insurance suck. on day one I had to tighten the battery terminals the connectors on the firewall passenger side.
had to change all the steering wheel bolts. 2 non existing, 2 broken off, one tight but the bad hole stripped the bolt on the way in and the rest all loose to the point that it wore out all the tread.
you can see that the treads were not cleaned after manufacture and that the treads were stripped has they went in cause all the bolt were rusted already.
other then that sounds awesome lol
and ya the cvt is loud but did quiet down a bit after a while.
hopefully no more issue.
oh and my driveside rear wheel squick like a MOFO too been doing that since day one. cleaned the brake and everything. just that wheel. the dealer noticed that on his demo one too
Thats the shop that put it together. I had a bolt rattle loose on mine. No big deal. Just like every other vehicle, one bad mechanic creates a lot of backlash.
Where is the best way to run the wire for a winch from the front to the battery on cfmoto 400
Been watching your channel alot and like the content, keep it up!
About the plastic push pins.. if you got the polaris tool kit with your scrambler, it has a set of pliers that have the special tool built into the nose. If not the tool can also be made by grinding on a cheap pair of pliers. It's just a regular set of pliers with a groove cut into the jaws for the head of the plastic rivet to slot into. Works great!
i use horse shoe nail pullers to pull plastic rivets sharpen them up a little works great
Really? That's crazy. Good to know, thanks for the tip Phil!
Great video, I need to do this on my Z Force 800. Hoping to remove a LOT less plastic.
Its much easier on the z800. Takes me 20 minutes and im into cylinder 2 which faces the cab and cylinder 1 faces rearward and i access # 1 from pass side fender well.
@@BlettzaHrekleW How do you get in there? I can't even access the screws for the valve covers w/out taking the whole rear bed off? Or am I missing something?
I don't remove the bed on zforce. I pull the engine cover in bed but go through from underneath bed like i said from pass side. Here is part of my writeup from My Pennsylvania Cfmoto Facebook page. I have pics for it all there.
Things that need removed
#1 Engine cover in bed
#2 Large center plastics behind seats.
#3 Fan housing on pass side beside oil filter so you can use FAN NUT to rotate engine (COUNTER CLOCKWISE ). If you have a newer zforce 800 you won't have this fan.
#4 Pass tire ,makes it easier to get to CYL #1.
#5 Remove Spark plugs.
#6 Remove both valve covers.
To find Top dead center. Rotate engine while watching cam sproket timing marks but 1st watch your intake valves open (spring compress ) , intake valves are closest to the intake , keep rotating ,youll see valves close (springs de compress) , once your to this point look for timing marks on cam sprocket and line them up even with edge of head .
If anyone would like to see the full writeup , if your on my Pennsylvania page then ask and i will tag you in it.
cf moto 450 atv yağ tahliye den yağ atıyor neden usta bilgi verebilirmisin
You mean you have to almost take the whole machine apart to adj the valves fir a 500 trail?
I use a 45 degree pick and a side cutter to take out those plastic rivets. Goes relatively quick one you get the routine down.
I wanted to ask are cfmoto good because they are cheaper than the rzr and rzrs belts are bad
That's a great question and yes, they are. But at the same time there are always sacrifices and not every machine is for everyone.
We did a full review on this Uforce, I would check that video out and it might help you get some good info and assist you in making your choice, good luck!
Anyone done a CVT belt on this model or 2017?
So what exactly did you set the intake side and exhaust side to?
Intake brings in air gas mixture to the combustion chamber. Exhaust opens to let out the left overs after the gas is ignited
Rivets?? Those are called push pins :-) I know I'm being overly picky here, but sorry it was throwing me off when you kept saying it . Either way good to see you're tackling this job yourself, a lot of people would be intimidated !
Your always there to call me out Wattz! 😆. Fair enough though, they are push pins, I don't know why I always revert back to calling them rivets...but I do. I'll try to stop! 👍
Sorry dude, at first I thought you were gonna have to drill out rivets!! :-) I have them all over my sportsman 4 wheelers and after you master them they are very easy to use and make removing plastics fast!! There cheap as hell to replace and a lot easier than "rivets" !
lol, fair enough man. I think you should just come by and help me shoot videos when I doing mechanical work 😆. Next time I'm at the auto parts store i'm going to look for a "push pin" removal tool.
first off id like to thank you for making this video,you gave alot of good information however at 5:50 thats a crankshaft position sensor not piston sensor.
Hello, how do you know when you need to adjust your valves?
Without being disparaging, I can hear my valve lash. I havent hit 20 hours or 200 miles yet, but I can hear just a little bit of chatter in the front that wasn't there before. A mechanics stethoscope or a good screwdriver (press the tip to the rocker cover and your ear tight and listen, use the other cylinder for a reference). Its an acquired skill that I learned from mechanics older than I am. It isn't bad but it is close enough to the inspection point to take the time to correct it. Work slow, and be patient and take your time and you'll do fine.
How many hours or miles you have on it?
I believe it was sitting around 200 miles when we did this service, so a little over the recommended time frame for this maintenance of 155 miles.
Do u know if I can use a 800 head on a 500?
Honestly, I don't know. I'm guessing no. But I haven't seen the 500 one up close either. Sorry I can't gi e you a better answer than that.
No you cant.
The plastic Pins/rivets are much easier if you use special tool for them.
Thanks, Edwin. I'm going to be picking one of those tools up! I could probably knock an hour of time off this type of job 😆
Hello, how do you change the fuel pump?
See that gigantic black nut on the top of the fuel tank. Unscrew that and the fuel pump lifts right out.
I can't find a gap! .003" is the minimum for the intake, but I can't get it to go through. Just to make sure I am at the right spot, I tried it on the exhaust which should be wider. I couldn't get it through there either! Is it possible that all of the valves are gapped to less than the minimum for the intake?
I finally just cranked the screw open and found the gap. Then I put the biggest gauge in and tightened it down until it was tight. I can't believe all 4 valves were that tight from the dealer!
@@mayasdaddy1 Spencer. "Ideal" is generally in the middle of most specs. In most cases, the exhaust valves are going to get a bit hotter than the intake valves. That means the metal will expand slightly more on your exhaust than your intake valve. Once you get the process down, try adjusting your exhaust valves one increment of measure looser than your intake and see how she runs warmed up. Just be glad its a cold adjustment. Old school V8s and such you did it with the engine warmed up and running . . .
@@Ulfthednar I remember Dad doing them running! That was in the '60s. Anyway, after I did my bit with them, it has been running great ever since. It fires right up whether it is hot or cold. Thanks for the input.
@@mayasdaddy1 the other trick is "pass no pass". Your target gap (at your discretion within specs) should drag through the gap. Its a slight interference feel your looking for, but the gauge should pass through. Double check it by using the next thickness up. (if your setting at .04mm then .05mm shouldn't slide through.) If that one doesn't pass through, your as close to exactly on as a human can get. I used a bendy mirror to watch my gauge on the front exhaust.
Here I am, a year later. Once again, my valves are too tight to even get a .002 in them! It acts totally different this time. Before, it was a real bear to get started when cold, but it ran great once it was hot. This time, it sputters when cold or hot, but it starts right up!
Mine is a Uforce 500. There is a serious lack of videos for a 500. The 800 is close. Two things that I noticed...on the 500, there is only 1 cylinder. I spent WAY too long looking for #2 spark plug before I discovered that there isn't one! And second, on the 500 you don't need to remove the fuel tank because there is no 2nd cylinder to worry about!
How many miles do you have in it?
Around 200 or so, David. I believe the recommended valve inspection is 155. So we are technically a little over on this machine.
To take out the rivets , I was damaging a lot so I went on Amazon and put the tools for under 15 bucks
120 into the vid. Would you want to be in unit. As it flippers over
? I'm not sure what you mean, Kyle. Can you please elaborate?
Just bought a 2018 uforce 800 got 34KMs on it and my dealer said at 300KMs I have to bring it in for valve clearance service . I'm mechanically inclined but can't do the work myself cause warranty would be void
That's crazy that it voids your warranty! Is it covered by your warranty then, or do you have to still pay for it?
It's the first break in oil change and valve clearance check but I'm guessing I'll be paying for it one way or another. But after that I do my own services
@@WesGoose right on. Well at least they are paying for the initial service! That's a few hundred dollars easy.
Hello, I bought 100 clips with the removal tool from Aliexpress for 6,60€. As the original clips are 0.73€ each in France it was an absolute bargain. The main reason they use these clips is for lightness & lack of space to use traditional screws, nuts & bolts etc.
Got a link? I havent broke any yet, but it is bound to happen.
GET THE PROPER TOOL FOR THE PUSH PINS!
I can't believe they charge you more to adjust them when that's the easiest part. Taking the Dang thing apart is the hardest part of the job. They want $500 for my break in inspection That includes changing all the oils as well but I'm going to do it myself. It doesn't say I can't do it myself. But had to make sure for warranty and all.I just bought the bike new they charged me $500 to put the oil in and now they want to charge me another $500 to take it out That's a $1000 for 300 km worth of riding Yeah right. I got the 600 the specs are the same as yours but not a v twin.
You need the little tool to remove those body panel plugs
Are u still with Megan?
Jeebus! The effort necessary just to get to the engine is enough to make a guy not want to buy one of these.
😆 Yea you definitely have to take a few things off to access the valves!
try dropping the transmission on a 90s nissan D21 hardbody. this is a piece of cake.
There's a special tool for removing plastic rivets..
Ya a side cutters its pliers like tool can take them off faster than the recommended took they make for these
Thanks, Gunna. I clearly do not have one of those but I will definitely be looking for one next time I'm at the auto parts store!
Interesting, Mike. I'm honestly not quite sure what those are but I'll try to look them up after this. I'm guessing side cutter is the correct name if I go to search for them?
Mike, I just googled this and realized I knew what tool you were talking about. They don't seem like they would work really well but I'll have to give them a shot.
Thanks for the idea.
side cutter is easier and everyone already has one if you have tools don't waist 10 bucks on that tool@@NavigateOffroad
Those plastic rivets suck!!! Every time I have to work on something with those I just sigh.
The plastic rivets are a breeze with the right tool .. one thats made to remove them 🤣
You said about 200dollars,here in Finland Its about 700euro.
Little WD-40 on those SOBs
oil change video next? lol
I have a video over on my channel
A trained ear could tell if they they were proper to start with.
lol, well can't say I have an ear capable of telling me that 😆
Your fulla sh*t about trained ear.
Yeah thats part of being a mechanic I have that ear aswell.