How To Perform A Coolant Flush On Your Ford Vehicle
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- čas přidán 24. 11. 2014
- Here is the Gold Coolant I used from Motorcraft-
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This is the only coolant flush chemical I use-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
In this video I go over my method for flushing the cooling system on Ford vehicles. This is a very through way of flushing the system out of debris and scale. Ford Taurus vehicles with a very rusty coolant condition please follow this alternative method-
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God bless the man who TELLS YOU WHAT SIZE WRENCH to use! Thank you.
Thanks to you, my wife and kids think I'm a car genius. Much appreciated for all your videos, even the old ones :)
Might not be a genius but you can call yourself a mechanic now
Especially the old ones! I own own a 05 f-150.
Sometimes even geniuses must still learn in order to be able to translate their abilities into something that can be understood. So you might have some hidden powers
Your not supposed to use tap water. You supposed to use distill water. Tap water has minerals in,it which can c a use eros
@@KrishnaSingh-ow1ie Only distilled water is required for use in aluminum radiators. This is a copper radiator, so distilled water is not required. Tap water is acceptable here.
Just wanted to say thank you, personally. Your vids have helped me so much, being a first time F150 owner. Bought one in bad shape and your vids have been my guide. I appreciate the time you've taken. God bless ya
How's the bad shape 150 treatin ya 4 years later?
I'm new to ford with a completely destroyed explorer and your videos have really helped me out. Thanks so much for your time and dedication and even service.
Brian thanks so much for all you videos I been a Ford owner for 40 years Its nice to click your videos to see how you do it nice slow well explained. You been my go to guy for all my Ford and Mercury cars and Trucks thanks
Love your channel. It’s been extremely helpful while servicing my 10-12 Fusion with no automotive skills.
Great video. I've always been leery to flush my own radiator, but I can do this after watching you do it. Thanks!
We have some pretty hard water in my area, so I didn't use tap water. On my '03, I merely drained the radiator and refilled with distilled water, drove around for 10 minutes with the heater on to insure the heater core got flushed too. Repeated that procedure 6 times, I think it was, until finally it looked like clear water draining into the bucket. Then I added 2 gallons of Ford Gold coolant to top it off. Checked with a specific gravity meter, it shows 59%. At only 88,470 miles, the original coolant still looked clean but it was 17 years old at the time. I didn't use any kind of coolant flush chemical. That was 3 years ago almost to the day. I don't drive it that much. Maybe 1500 miles between annual oil changes. Been subscribed to your channel a couple years now.
"2 gallons" 50/50 or concentrated? Like how many gallons of distilled u used?
hose water in my area will set-up like concrete...distilled water is best...agree 100%
@@MrEdgardotcom 2 Gallons of concentrated Ford Gold coolant. The system holds 17 quarts, so 8 quarts of concentrate is close to a 50/50 mixture.
I use distilled water too. Can’t really do a complete drain without opening the plugs on the engine block.
@@edhall8911 I cut off the old thermostat with an angle grinder to remove the spring and the middle parts, water will flow without restrictions
I want to thanks you for this video. I had to replace the radiator in my F150 due to a small leak. So I watched your flush process and did it yesterday. All went ok and I have a new motor craft RAD22 and filled it up with the Zerex G05 coolant. I learned a lot that I never knew regarding engine coolant in the process. I also learned that the 5.4 holds approx 2 gal and the rad is approx 1 gal. I have a 2010 Taurus to do next as it's at the 6 yr recommended interval. Thanks again.
Excellent video. Exactly what we did at Ford dealership also. I would usually explain this same process to people, now I can just refer them to you. 👍
I really appreciate every video you do on ford, legit man you saved me so much time and money.
Just did this on a 2011 expedition. I used Motorcraft VC-3B coolant. It took me about 3 hours. The hose I attached to the radiator was a 3/8" and was about 6 feet in length. The petcock is on the passenger side by the bottom right hand corner of the radiator fan. You can get to it without removing anything else, but it's a tight squeeze for bigger dudes. I used a flathead screwdriver to loosen it as the petcock on my vehicle was round and grooved so a wrench wouldn't work. If you use a stubby flathead you can unscrew it like a normal screw as there is a large groove cut out in the center.
Thank you that was very simple and easy to follow and truly appreciated
I just have to say thank you very much...
Your videos are very helpful.
I have been subscribed to your channel ever since I purchased my '05 4.6 l V8 rear wheel drive F-150.
You're the first place I go to find information on what I need to do for my vehicle and I cannot thank you enough.
I filed your procedure exactly!
The only thing I did different was after I ran the vehicle flushing it with water to get the cleaning solution out and let the system drain once clear of the cleaning solution.
With the cap off the reservoir tank and the drain plug from the radiator completely removed. I started the vehicle and ran it 10 to 15 seconds then shut it off. Then another half gallon to 3/4 gallon of clear water drained out.
Then I filled it with cooling solution.
Hopefully I didn't mess anything up.
I've used your channel to do a complete rotor, caliper, brakes and brake system flush.
Complete coolant system flush.
New front Monroe coil spring and strut assemblies replacement.
Oil change, throttle body cleaning,
Starter replacement.
Rear pinion seal replacement and differential fluid.
Power steering system fluid replacement.
New spark plug replacement.
Front wheel hub assemblies replacement.
Got the truck body mint condition for only $1250.00.
201,000 miles.
Runs like a top!
Thank you again so very much, so informative and professionally done.
God bless you
I have the exact same truck and I am having trouble with the heater.
@@rexdelosangeles8074 what is your heater doing?
Just THANK YOU. That says it all.
If you ever come to Oaxaca México let me know, it will be my pleasure to share a meal.
The best videos, by far.
Thank you so much for this video. I need to do this on my Mercury Mountaineer and wanted to ensure I could do a good job. I think I can now. great work and thanks for sharing 😊
For Northern climates I would check the final water/antifreeze mixture to make sure it can withstand -40 below.
@Richard Thomas wear warm clothes
@Richard Thomas some of us work 8 hours a day in -40 to -50
Good job! Very thorough. We can't ask for more...
Really appreciate you teaching and sharing this knowledge with us. Thanks
Covered all bases, crystal clear, a good presentation.
Thank you so much for this video! I did this procedure along with flushing out the heater core and I now have heat in the cab again!
arnuffdog also good to check the heater core for lint, dust, leaves and such if you don’t have a pre-filter the air intake side.
Love your vids! I admire people with passion when doing their work the proper way. I have always done all my maintenance and repairs on all my vehicles so I know that it gets done right every time. My 19' F-250 6.7 diesel has 48k miles and want do do a complete coolant change of the primary and secondary cooling systems. Is it possible for you to do a video on that procedure? Keep up the good work👍
That’s what I’ve been looking for as well. Would be really helpful to have a video of that
Mak is the best,wish you were here in my town...Love your work...You should have a TV show...
Thank you very much. With this method, my heater never went on and temp rose to 212f, so I closed the loop and flushed three times. Then I did one more closed loop flush with distilled water. The 70 % concentration makes sense since I almost had no coolant left from two gallon jugs. Thanks again for posting.
Thanks for this, exellent vid, helped a lot!
If you can access the coolant drain plugs in your block it's a good idea to open those up when you are flushing the system with your garden hose.
Yeah but for the DIYer you don't need to. You'll just be introducing more air into the system. You have to be careful too because sometimes it's damn near impossible to get air out deep down in the block without having to take into the garage. Just saying. I myself don't recommend the Do it yourselfer to do that but not my vehicle just remember there is that chance of it happening. If it happens your looking at a new flush but garages hook up a suction tool with shut off valve connected to a air compressor to suck all that air out from the block and will use another line that is connected with a different shut off valve for the feeding system to put new coolant in. Most DIY people don't have that.
I like your videos. Always with good info, and to the point. You have a lot of class.
First time watching this video and I like the professionalism. I'll definitely follow this video when I do my coolant flush next week.
Really enjoy all your videos thanks buddy have a wonderful week.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and I like the music in the background to.
Have question similiar to one asked before but was not answered. Followed video procedure to change coolant today on 2006 F150 5.4 liter with coolant capacity 20.9 quarts. Removed cap on coolant bottle on cold engine and drained coolant thru hose attached to drain plug to get it all. Removed draincock at end. Only got about 6 quarts measured in 2 gallon milk bottles then stopped draining. Added radiator flush to coolant bottle then added water and as expected it only took the same amount of about 6 qts to fill it. Ran engine and drove with heater on high for about 20 minutes to clean coolant system. Allowed to cool some then drained again and again only got about 6-7 qts. Flushed with hose and drained with stopcock out at idle, as directed for several minutes till water coming out was clear. Refilled with water and drove again with heater on high for about 10 minutes. Allowed to cool some and drained again with draincock out. Only got 6-7 qts out again. Flushed at idle for a few minutes with hose, draincock out and engine running to get foam out of bottle til water coming out of stopcock was very clear. Filled with distilled water. Drove a bit then drained 1 more time with cover off of coolant bottle and only got 6-7 qts out. Added new full strength antifreeze and it only took 6-7 qts. All the time I was driving had lots of heat with heater on high and temp guage reading normal regular temp right in the middle. So if I had plain water in the system then and only could add 6-7 qts of full strength antifreeze, how do I achieve a 50/50 mix when there is 6-7 qts of antifreeze and about 14 qts of water in the coolant system?
Awesome needed a fresh up haven't done in 25 yrs bu now have too good video ty
Thank you! Great video. I just bought a 2004 f150 with 5.4 and 82k miles. I will be doing this procedure...
5/30 synthetic oil.
I use 5w40 rotella synthetic on mine from 2012 to present with no issues. I wanted the oil thicker once hot.
@Sea Life it's actually recommended by this Chanel
Picked up a 09 5.4 I changed the oil and put 5-20 MC synthetic blend. It’s what the book said is 5-30 still better? Live in Phoenix
Great video! As a pro just curious how much time do you bill for and how long does the job usually take. Keep your videos coming. So good.
This video reminds me to my problem with the water pump, this thing is so tricky, it tooks me two days to figured out that it is what causing the heating issue
Thanks for posting this. Great info
Really appreciate your videos. Can you please do a Video on Coolant Flush with Thermostat change on A 2008 Ford Edge? Soon. Thanks
thanks brian! make sure to test the coolant afterwards with a boil/freeze tester to make sure it's at least a 50/50 mix. I usually pull the lower hose at the start to really evacuate the sediment. Great videos brother!!
+Mark K If they are that bad yes we do that on the Taurus vehicles with the rust issue.
@@skjoe1115 especially when it is filled with the gold coolant!!
Thank you! This worked great!
I did a nuline deepclean but when I filled it up with coolant the old water recirculated with the gunk back into the reservoir. Using your method I could finally clean it all out. Thankyou kind sir
If you wan to scrub that recovery tank clean. You can use crushed ice and it will scrub it clean as new. I did mine this summer as it was really bad brown. And it was the hardest one to do as it had 4 dividers in it but 30-40 mins of shaking it was like new.
+Claude “Reviews4U” Rains Nice tip!!!!!!!!!!!
Claude Rains what makes the coolant in the expansion tank look all gunk/sludged like?
Its rust residue from the engine block. Carrier back by the coolant....
kchilz32 motorcraft products
Claude Rains I spray painted mine gloss white looks Great no need for the ice.
One question. The water at the end of this, still inside the engine block ,is NOT distilled water. Distilled water is recommended when adding antifreeze when it isn't 50% already diluted. Wouldn't it be better to add distilled water in the reservoir to flush out remaining undistilled water before adding the last step antifreeze? Or is it such a small amount it doesn't matter?
**** Looks like this was covered in another post.
thanks again for your help with the actuator
Engine ticking and knocking is giving me flashbacks of my last truck. So glad to have the 5.0L now, so much smoother.
My truck has 308000 miles and has had cam phaser knock since 65k..lmao..still runs good ..drives me nuts tho.
When I cleaned out my tank, removed the tank, flushed it out, added a very small rag wrapped around a powerful magnet. With another magnet I used it to control and scrub the tank inside of the tank almost 100 percent clean. It was better than any brush and blower.
MrPrios1 now that is some dedication to maintenance👍🏽
Can you link theose magnets
@@Juh02078 Any good speaker or electric toothbrush magnets. When i destroy broken equipment I keep useful parts.
If anyone is worried about iron in their hard water coming from an untreated outside the house spigot, go and buy some cheap distilled water from the grocery store. But I think you can also get some softened water from inside your house and not worry about sediment or iron.
I'm at the coast where hard water is an issue and the outside hose isn't run through the water softener. I've seen elsewhere about using distilled water. Too, he's running a lot of water through there and can the same be accomplished with gallon jugs of distilled water?
When I fill after the flush I add straight concentrated coolant of the amount that will be 60% of the listed coolant volume in the owners manual and fill the rest with distilled water. When a flush is done you never get all of the flush water out and if you add 50/50 or 60/40 to the water retained in the block and heater core it will dilute it and you won’t have enough freeze and additive protection.
I thought is was taboo to use regular water in the cooling system? Most vids say distilled water, but then again, you could not get a good power flush then. And thanks Surg for the 60/40 to compensate for the water in the block. Good reminder sir. CHeers from Motown!
Thanks this process did great for me
I've watched your previous video and it seems that the tap-water method is not applicable to the new Yellow-coolant spec of Motorcraft coolant. I think I'll just do a fill then drain method using lots of distilled water to be sure. Great video.
same. i am picking up a 12 fusion w/68k original miles. i want the new stuff instead of a mix of old and new.
Please explain the fill/drain method.
@@ninbendoyt3203 open radiator drain, gets about 1 gallon out usually. About 2 gallons still left in the system. Fill reservoir with distilled water and let engine run or drive around so the water mixes with the old coolant and then drain again. Repeat until water comes out clear and fill with appropriate concentration of coolant to get at least a 50/50 mix. No garden hose used since the tap water has chemicals that will cause damage to cooling system, so only distilled water is used.
@@Arturo-im1nh ^ this is the best way of doing it imo
During the flush with the engine running, wont the thermostat close because of cooling down and when you cut the engine off to drain, there be some semi rusty water left in the water jacket of the engine?
Thank you, this video was very helpful, worked out great!
Thank you your Videos are great yes I’m a girl I work on my car but you have a Lotta good advice thank you so much again 10 thumbs up on that do You know what you’re doing easy to follow ❤️it
Great videos, love your channel esp. all the 5.4L 3v advice! On this video, are you worried about introducing cool water to a hot engine and cracking something?
+srpope80 Engine internal cooling passages are hot but nothing to worry about as the cold water mixes before it enter the block even then the mass of the block it can handle it.
You bring up a good point. If your car overheats, when it is cool enough to open add the cold water with the engine running.
The thermostat closes up during the cold water flush. If you are at home and not worried about paying shop hours, then go ahead and close the drain plug during a few drain and fil, wait for temp to go up with the heat on full red, this will circulate the gunk in the heater core and allow it to drain out on the next drain dump.
Bro! Where have you been all my life! 😆 🤣 😂
Great videos sir. You do a great job and have taught us all many tips , tricks and techniques. I had a question. I'm planing on doing a water pump and t stat and replacing Ford's o rings in hoses this weekend. Would you flush before or after the install? My water at home is really hard and i thought by doing it before, i would get a lot more of my hard water out of block but not sure. It hasn't been flushed ever, with 100k. Thanks for any advice
Great video. Im gona do this to my 5.4 asap
If you have residue in the expansion tank, remove it any way possible rather than trying to flush it through the system because mostly all of the residue will end up in the heater core and/or cores. Like Expedition Eddie Bauer rear hvac.
Great video! Thanks. But is there any risk to using tap water to refill the cooling system with unknown acidity and contaminants instead of using gallon jugs of distilled water purchased from the store to refill?
You could use either but you must know your water source if you are going to be using tap water.
Your videos are the best
Thank you so much for your video! Great job!
Can you do this same procedure on a 1990 ford f250 7.3 diesel
Would you recommend this same procedure for a 2011 F250 6.7L? Thanks!
Thanks for this video very helpful.
u are a godsend thanku i am a diy and u explain it very well
How precise do you have to be when mixing the 100% coolant with the water that you estimate that is in the block??
Great video, any possibility for a brake fluid flush video in the future?
yes
It's the same method, just put the water hose into your brake fluid reservoir!
@@stugler6939 🤣🤣🤣
Great video...One little thing... The second cold water hits the t-stats it closes up. Its not easy to do on all engines, but on the 5.4l 3v (the engine your working on) it very easy to remove the t-stat, then bolt the housing back down (it will leak, which is fine for the flush) Flush the system the same way you described only now you have a full flow of coolant going through the engine...Then, t-stat back in, flip the o-ring around opposite of how it came out (I keep spare t-stat seals on hand at my shop just in case the original cant be reused). Refill and burp just as you described. Again great Video.
Nope the thermostat does not close up one bit. Try this test on your next flush. Get the engine full hot as stated in the video, at this point the upper radiator hose will be too hot to touch indicating the thermostat has opened up and started to flow. Then begin the flush with the garden hose, periodically check that same upper radiator hose with your hand you will find it will still be too hot to touch indicating coolant is still flowing through the open thermostat to the radiator. Try this then get back to me.....
@@FordTechMakuloco Hi. Can you explain how the tstat stays open? I understand you run the garden hose while the coolant is still hot and tstat is still open...but won't the cold water close the tstat fairly quickly before the hose water flushes out the block and heater core? I would puld like to ensure all of the chemical flush is out of the system. Thanks.
@FordTechMakuloco , So as long as full heat is on in the cab it will flow through the heater core and the complete engine removing the flush fluid in the process?
Thanks
Hey, great video. Very informative and I will be flushing my coolant within the next few days. One thing that I’m not all that clear on, is after I flush the system with water how can I just fill it with 50/50? Im not very good at figuring percentages of fluids. I drive a 2014 Ford F-150 XL, 3.7 engine, flex fuel.
Will this method work on an E99 F250 7.3 PSD? Thanks.
Wow! I must be old school. First, I always measure the drained coolant that comes out, so I know how much concentrate to add back in later. Second, I flush with distilled water only, not with tap water that will remain in the system after you drain. Finally, after doing the rest of the procedure similar to what you have shown, and the drained fluid looks clear, I refill with the same measured amount of new concentrate that was initially removed to provide a 50/50 system mixture and then top off with 50/50 distilled/coolant. This way I don't introduce all the minerals and chemicals that are in tap water. Only distilled and coolant for my truck!!
Mike Davis , in Arizona we got super hard water, so using anything but distilled water is asking for cooling system failure in the summer time.
Is there any way to not leave any water in the system I bought all the 5050 stuff but with water left in there I'm gonna have a less than ideal mixture
Great video. Thanks a lot bro
Good video very instructive 👍
Could I follow the procedure you’ve outlined in this video. Then at the end pull out the drain plugs on the block to get the rest of the clean water out then refill with 50/50?
Same boat…already bought 50/50. I was just gonna maybe go exchange one of my 4 bottles for undiluted and call that about good?
What’d you end up doing?
Hi Brian! I really enjoy your videos. Even though I (thankfully) don't currently have any car repair projects, I feel like I'm a better mechanic for having studied your techniques. I have two F150s, so I'm sure I'll need your advice eventually. If I may comment on your video editing techniques, I'd like to suggest that you sign off personally, on camera, even if that was with a prerecord little snippet. Many of your videos start with you on camera describing the problem and setting the stage for the repair. That connects you to the viewers. I'm sure that signing off by saying something about the repair, thanking the viewers, and personally asking them to subscribe would work better for you than just rolling text at the end. Your most recent videos just sort of ended without flair. Just boom--end of video. You deserve better than that. You could at least prerecord several different endings when you have a free day, then just tack a random one onto each video. I'll pulling for you!
I know I am just trying to streamline my videos to not have so much yacking and get down to the repair and I feel after the repair is done many people just turn off the video and never watch the outros. On videos where they are more complicated like upcoming ones I do have an outro to explain a little more about what we just did, so they will vary.
Keeping to the point and ending after the point is what I prefer. Alot of filler isn't needed at beginning or end. Thanks for the good videos
Awesome video.
Awesome video!
To get right amount of coolant after a flush, look up how much the system holds. Then add 1/2 that amount of 100% antifreeze then top it off with water.
you never get all the water out. doing it your way will only give you protection down to about 0 degrees
@@nathonsmithson3024 What he's saying is that it doesn't matter how much water is already in the system. If you put the correct amount of concentrate in and then fill it to the line you'll have a 50/50 mix.
For example, my owner's manual says 21.2 quarts for engine coolant capacity. That means that I need 10.6 quarts of undiluted coolant and 10.6 quarts of water for a 50/50 mix.
If there are still 3 quarts trapped in the system, I can add my 10.6 quarts of coolant and then fill to the line with water without measuring - since the capacity is 21.2 quarts and there's already 13.6 quarts of fluid in there, it'll only let me add 7.6 quarts more water before I hit the fill line.
If there are still 5 quarts trapped in the system, I add my 10.6 quarts of coolant and then fill up to the line with water and it will only take 5.6 more quarts of water before I hit the fill line.
@@thighcurlcontest ok. while correct in most cases certain variables apply to this theory. some vehicals develope large air pockets. even a flush doesn't remove all coolant all the time. aftermarket setups like rads and oil cooler deletes and engine swaps debunk this theory including finding the factory capacity to the coolant system. best advice is get a 7 dollar tester. premix to your desired temperature range and adjust accordingly. to liitle antifreeze is verry seldom a problem. most of the time i see engines that heat up too slowly in winter and have poor heating/defrost due to to much coolant. you may have to a half gallon and add coolant or water to that half gallon and retop off once or twice. if your way off you may drain a gallon and add a gallon of coolant or water to offset. dont guess. just test and do it correct. could be the difference in a cracked block or more than likely defrost that clears your windshield in 5 minutes as apposed to 20 minutes. think about it. spend an extra 30 minutes testing and adjusting when filling or an extra 15 minutes waiting on your vehical to warm up every day through the winter. keep in mind your engine is healthier and more fuel efficient at operating temperature . the sooner you get it there the better. on a diesel in the winter this is crucial.
Ah yes the beautiful sound of the 3v cam phaser knock
I just pretend it came from the factory like that.
Mine is been doing that for 80,000 miles now...
That's how you know it's a 5.4
That's the fuel injectors you hear, the phaser "tick" is different.
I thought it was a diesel at first
Thanks 🙏 this was a big help!
Thank you! Very professional.
Really appreciate your detailed maintenance videos! I'm hoping you can provide some insight.
How does the fresh/cold water make its way to the water pump and engine? Wouldn't it just go into the degas bottle > radiator > out the open drain petcock?
Can you suggest a coolant flush method for a Fiesta? My research suggests that it doesn't have a drain petcock - so people remove the lower radiator hose.
The Process from about 6:30 on... Is it good to be pouring cold water in and through a hot coolant system? That makes me nervous about rapid expansion/contraction issues.
I’d rather have a dirty system then cracked heads. It’s happened to me before.
Hello, thanks for all of your helpful videos. Recently, I replaced the Coolant bypass solenoid c in my 2013 Escape 1.6 for a p26b7 code. I initially lost some coolant and made sure I topped it off after the repair. After about 1000 miles I just received a low coolant warning and noticed that the coolant level was low in the reservoir. Have you come across this issue before? My initial thought is that I introduced air into the system and it has worked itself out by now, but I am afraid it could be worse.. EEEK
More great info!! Thanks!! 👍💯
Do you recommend we take out the plug on the block too or is it something that's optional? Thank you 😊
@@nastysoda9212 why's that?
Thank you for the video I only have one question. My owners manual to my 2010 Mustang says to only used distilled water. I did a coolant flush at about 45000 miles by draining the radiator, filling will clear distilled water, running engine to open thermostat then run engine a few minutes and repeated this process until the water draining out is clear. Then refilled with Motorcraft gold coolant. Is this method ok to use? Using a garden hose the water isn't distilled. Thank you kindly.
That's a Diesel he's flushing
@@Shonuff42080 it's not a diesel, it's a gasser F-150
@@bahopik yeah I see know thanks
Can you do a full back flush video on the primary and secondary cooling systems of the 6.7 powerstroke???
coulda used your slick cooling filler tool that pulls a vacuum down on the system. that tool is NICE
Which is better for my Ford Edge
Green VC-10-A2 vs Orange VC-3-B
Region Southern California
I have a couple of questions;
1. what is your opinion on the use of distilled or ionized water, to flush, as opposed to the potable water that you used here?
2. in the case of a neglected cooling system,( ie.2003 f150 5.4l, VIN L, 273000 kms, never unflushed), what is your opinion on leaving the cleaning additive in the engine for a three day heavy duty cleaning, do you recommend it or not, and why?
So no reply yet? Good ??s I want do this right!
@@CaliAndrew18 use distilled to flush
Thank you for your video. I would take out the Thermostat whilst cleaning 'n' flushing and once is finished then replaced for a new Thermostat.
That would cause a leak and is absolutely not necessary as the thermostat is open for the entire flush procedure anyway.
Very Informative videos!! Do you have a video on cleaning the outside of the engine on a 2011 F150 Ecoboost?
I use simple Green. Myself personally I do it when the engine is cold and I sprayed everywhere with the simple green all on the engine engine bay the firewall everywhere that you want to clean let it sit for two or three minutes go back and get it one more time let it sit to three minutes and then go back with your water hose on like a jet not like a sprinkle but a straight jet and spray everywhere you see grease and dirt but try not to spray you know like directly at your computer or your coil you can put it on shower for that but you want it on a straight spray for those dirty greasy areas and then let it drip a minute or two and then spray it again wait two or three minutes and then spray it back off depending how dirty and greasy your engine is you may have to do it 3 to 5 times but you will be pleased with the end results. After you I have a clean to your liking start it up let it warm up maybe drive it around the block or down the street or just cut it back off will be fine also or if you have a compressor you could blow it dry that’s totally up to you but I have been doing it this way for over 15 years and never had a problem matter fact I learned that trick from my father-in-law who is a retired airplane mechanic!!!👍💯
Do you have a shop here in chicago. I like your dedication towards your work is it possible for you to work on my car. It's a 2011 ford taraus 3.5L Limited 103kmiles. Just need a coolant flush and a tune up.
Just west of Chicago yes, you can submit a service request here- bsgautomotive.com/
Thank you I will definitely make an appointment in a few days
I haven't been able to be at his shop yet I'm saving up some $.
But I will go I promise that
The Ford Gold coolant is the cause of many cooling system issues on Fords. I never reinstall it on anything it's drained from. I use Shell Rotella ELC or their Ultra ELC on pretty much everything. They do not precipitate silicates. However, I understand that you may have to stick with Motorcraft coolant at a dealership.
SVTPerformance We have never had any problems with gold very good stuff but not for diesels they found out, we even had BG telling us they found the gold coolant to be unmatched at the time when doing lab test and I agree.
***** In the diesel the coolant would get so hot from the engine. Usually what happens is there is problems with the exhaust cooler.Its part of the egr system. When you have failed it heats the coolant up past its boiling point ans starts to separate the particles. It happens mainly to 6.0 and 6.4 powerstrokes. The common sign is a white residue on the top of the degas bottle.
nickelwork87
The problem with Motorcraft Gold in the 6.0s and 6.4s (but particularly the 6.0) was the solid precipitates falling out of the solution and clogging the oil cooler. This in turn would starve the EGR cooler of coolant, allow it so get too how, it would then crack internally, and finally lead to any number of costly failures. All because of a coolant that contains silicates.
FordTechMakuloco
I've seen clogged oil coolers on gas engines from the Gold coolant as well, along with a general cruding up of the cooling system in general. That's something we pay particular attention to in racing and towing applications. The Rotella coolants (and any number of other quality ELCs) do not contain the silicates which cause the failures.
The Rotella Ultra ELC was actually designed with modern (emissions equipment laden) diesels in mind. It has a corrosion inhibitor package that works great aluminum intensive engines. The best parts about those coolants is that they keep the cooling system extremely clean and don't need to be changed for 600,000 miles.
***** They found the gold just wasn't cutting it and causing front cover cavitation on the 6.4L hence they went to OAT coolant for the new 6.7L. Diesels are allot harder on the coolant.
pretty much how I do it. good vid.
Thanks for the video. I am thinking to do on my car. Just one thing, the tap water used to flash at the end some will stay in the system. I was told not to use tap water into cooling system. I can think I can't do a flash like this using distilled water as well.
It all depends on your water source most tap water from the city is just fine.
Just one question, where will it be safe to let water tainted with coolant drain to? Most of us dont have a garage with a drain catch and a seperatoe.
Most part stores and auto shops will take your old fluids and recycle them for you. You never want to dump any fluids onto the ground where it can taint the environment
Just go buy a bin at the dollar store let it drain into that then funnel it into empty coolant bottles take it to auto zone…and return it…jk recycle it
Thanks for the video. I am trying to figure out how much coolant to order for my 2001 F150 SuperCrrew. My owners manual states 25-25.5 quarts capacity (6.25 Gal). So if I mix at a ration of 60% Coolant/40% water...then I would need 3.75 Gal's of coolant??? but there is water trapped in the system.....so I dont know how much to add.
Do you know how much water is trapped in the system after flushing?
Do you know how much coolant I should purchase?
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know this comment is 3 years late, but maybe this will help someone else. Don't overthink it; you need 3.75 gallons of straight, undiluted coolant (25 quarts x 60% = 15 quarts or 3.75 gallons). It doesn't matter how much water is trapped in the system - just add your 15 quarts and then fill to the line with water and you'll be dead on.
OEMS RECOMMEND 50-50 MIX RESULTING IN A - 34 DEGREE FREEZE POINT. THUS 25.5 /2 = 12.75 QUARTS THEN TOP OUT WITH WATER.
I drain the system hot so the thermostat is open. Then I pull the thermostats for an open system. After engine cools I fill with distilled water and run it without thermostat for about ten minutes. Then I drain and replace thermostat. I pour in full strength antifreeze half of system capacity. Keeping in mind I flushed with distilled water whatever water is left in the block is good for the mix. I top off with more distilled water. Distilled water is cheap at Walmart.
Thanks for posti ng this video