#1 Tip Before PSA Submissions ~Surfaces Issues on Vintage Baseball Cards~
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- Maximize PSA Submission! Watch all the way through & learn about all the different types of Surface issues Cards can have that will hurt your submission. Look for these issues before you submit, save time and money!
Great info I have in-joy it Marlins fan OK see u next time
Glad you enjoyed it!!!
Definitely the most detailed vintage card tip video out there for PSA grading! Those indents killed me in the past! Other imperfections on vintage I have noticed is the pimple like bumps, the small oil spots (usually on the back of the card), and even hairlike scratching! And beware of the fisheyes! Love the video!
Thank you so much Adam. You're absolutely right! I appreciate the additional info and thank you for watching and commenting.
Also can include subsurface bubbles and subsurface cardboard fiber elevations.....knock 2-3 grades down
Excellent video. I agree. Really like the examples of different types of surface issues. Surface is a major player and usually when you see a really, really nice looking vintage card in a PSA 1-6 holder, it's a surface problem.
Yes! You are 100% right! I appreciate you watching and commenting! Thank you!
Thank you for this! My husband is going to submit a bunch of cards before 2020 comes and I’ll make sure he follows these tips.
You're very welcome! I appreciate you watching and good luck to your Husband on his grades!!!
Thanks for the Video! Thanks for the Tips!
Absolutely! Glad you enjoyed Urban.
Very good info on getting cards graded. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching Ken!
Thanks for this, I’ve got cards from 50’s thru 70’s I need to send in, and this video is a game changer for me! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Super happy to help. Appreciate you stopping by. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you!!!
Important information! Please watch to the end guys and gals.
Thank you! Glad you found it important.
This is an awesome tip! Thank you for the information LA Collection. Love this video.
Glad you liked it Alex! Thank you again for stopping by.
Thanks for the good info!!!
You got it! Hope it helps you sometime in the future.
Basically dont send in any cards with **m stains on them or folded in half or a bullet hole in them. I thought the last vintage card u were gonna say the jagged left border but maybe thats fine
I have a card that I want you to see. It is my only one, but it is a Bowman #179 Hank Aaron. It looks as good as one that sold for $26,798.40 at auction. I would love to have your opinion, please.
Nice tips. Most vintage cards will not be perfect. I would still send them in.
Yupp! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@LACollection No problem.
@@Collectorholic 😁
Nice video! I was gonna send two of my Friends Tony Gwynn and Wade Boggs rookies from 83 fleer that I thought would be a DEFINATE 10, but they had tiny pinhole like dents at the top that were barely visible, and I looked at lots of my other cards and they had the same thing. Oof. I’m glad your pointing out all the things to look for, I know it’ll really help me.
Glad to hear it Alex. Are you going to send them into PSA? Hoping for a 9?
Thank you for posting this info.
You got it! Thank you for watching. Hope it helps with any future submissions.
Thank you for the video
No problem Dan! Glad you enjoyed. Lots more coming soon, hope you can Subscribe if you have a minute. Thank you!!!
Here's the skinny on any submission. Even if, and a big if, a card, especially a 1970's and before, even the 80's does grade a Gem Mint 10, one still has to pay $25 or more for the grading and then has to sell it. Unless it's a 70's and before card of a great player, they're are dozens of cards available on eBay with all types of grades and seems like hardly any of them sell. Take the 73 Mike Schmidt high # rookie card. There was 20 available in all conditions and nobody was buying. It's a risky business no matter how you look at it.
Just Subscribed. Awesome vintage cards.
Thank you Ken! More videos coming soon!!
You should do a video on buying raw vintage cards
Excellent Idea Eric. I will add that to the list of videos I will be making in 2020. I appreciate the Excellent idea!!!
I’m on a vintage kick right now and am having a hard time pulling the trigger on raw some cards. PSA seems like the easiest way to verify you’re getting the real deal. And obviously that means spending a lot more. I’m sure you have some tips on buying raw. Haven’t seen a video like it yet.
@@Eric-sh2ok Sounds good Erik. Yes, that is a great idea and I will add it to the list of videos I will make in 2020. Thank you VERY MUCH for this video idea.
Zion!! Ahh I would love a Zion card! Great video man!!
Thank you Brother. Get a Zion RC NOW! If he turns out to be anywhere near as good as he is slotted to be, his cards will be up about 300-500% by next year. Try to stick to the most popular issues (Panini Prizm/National Treasures) if you don't get one of these brand cards, buy any RC in a PSA-10 (those will always be at the highest of demand by collectors/investors) Add it to your shirt-term portfolio.
Useful tips! And a lot of good stuff to know. ☺
Yupp! Glad you enjoyed.
Great knowledge, homie...I've always been a RAW card guy, but every time I watch your PSA vids it inches me closer....lol
One day brother....that say is coming!!!
I sent a group of non sports to PSA and I had one card that was perfect in every way possible. The only thing I could find was an elevated area that looked as if the paper had a knot under it. I got my 10, so that was great but now when I buy cards I always look to see if there are hidden surface anomolies.
Flair cards from the early 1990s seem to easily get surface scratches. From your experience how many points do these hairline scratches hurt the score?
That suffice issues are from the printer which is Topps or other. Why are collectors being punished for what Topps or other created. Collector issues which is what collectors do to their cards is on us.
I agree. We get penalized for natural imperfections made by the factory. Unfortunately, that is the market and that's what the grading companies do. And yes, us collector's have to pay for Topps/other Printers mistakes. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Definitely helpful info! I have a 68 Topps Tom Seaver. I noticed the other day it has 2 very slight wrinkles on the front. I thought they were creases at first but they don't run through the back. Everything else is fairly decent well centered for a 68. I may send it in simply because I'm 85% sure that it's the Milton Bradley version. I kind of want to authenticate it if it indeed is. I'd love to hear your opinion on this! It kinda has me stumped honestly. Great video! :)
Thank you very much for your comment. If it's the Milton Bradley version, then it's definitely worth authenticating and throwing it in a Slab. Just know that PSA grades very very harshly on surface issues so the wrinkles are going to bring the grade down to a 3 or 4 at best. Either way, good luck with it! Appreciate you stopping by.
@@LACollection Thanks for the heads up brother! For me it would be more about authenticating it. It's a rare card so a 3 or 4 would be fine.
@@Samshorror Awesome! Let me know what happens.
So how does this work? When submitting the card, do you simply make your best guess as to whether it is Topps or Milton Bradley and then, if you are incorrect, does PSA still grade the card but put the correct designation?
Hey LA Collection, this video was really helpful for me, thanks for making it. I wanted to ask you a question about a vintage 1980 Bird/Magic RC that I wanted to get graded that has the black print mark. I am trying to maximize the value of it for my dad, and otherwise the card is perfect. I read that PSA is a lot harsher on surfaces than BGS, is that true? I don’t want to submit to get a PD print defect grade - would you go BGS? Also, he bought a bunch of fleer basketball 87-88 cards that were sold in a tight bag that dinged the same upper right corner for every card. It includes a MJ card and MJ sticker amongst others. For those I’m also leaning BGS, bc I read PSA is very strict on corners. I can send you picture of the cards if that would be helpful. Sorry for the long message! Thanks 🙏!
Damn, no penny sleeves
Don't need them on vintage cards.
Brock Davis 72 has a rough left edge. It would be a 6 max without the indentation imo
Yupp. I agree and I'm not sending it in for grading. Just an FYI for you, there have been times that PSA doesn't downgrade too harsh on the rough edges. It's crazy but I have gotten PSA-8's with rough edges as long as everything else is clean.
Thanks again for stopping by Patrick!
@@LACollection still want you to send in the brock davis just to see what the final outcome was
I want to submit some cards for grading. Thank you for posting tips.
Would you consider posting a video on tips for proper storage of ungraded cards?
Hi Mike, yes I would. I do have a list of about 20 videos that I will be making in the coming month, but yes I will add this to the list.
Good luck on your grading submissions, let me know if you have any questions.
LA Collection, I’ll keep in touch. Thank you for posting your videos; great content. I have really enjoyed watching them this year.
Have a safe and Happy New Years!
@@cmikesmith664 Wow, I appreciate that very much! Wishing you the same!!!
Great video! PSA is huge on surface and you really nailed it man! Check out my videos for some more vintage!
Just subbed back brother and absolutely will do soon!
Hello, I just came across a 50's Topps Baseball card with some thick oil based paint on the front. Any thoughts/ideas about trying to remove the paint? Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike, does the oil have color or is it just an oil stain (similar to a gum stain) ? Is the oil stain on a white border or ON the player? Likely it's a loss (or you would likely alter the card in the restoration) But Let me know.
@@LACollection Here is the card to which I am referring. I like this card and would be interested to try to remove some of the paint, and/or send it to PSA to have it grade Authentic. Additional thoughts? Regards, Mike
@@LACollection Here is the card to which I refer: www.ebay.com/itm/283703633854 - card has pretty good bones. What would you consider a reasonable price as is? Regards, Mike
See eBay auction 283703633854
@@mikewrobel2881 Mike, don't bother buying that card. Just move on and find another one and pay a little more. If it was water-based paint, maybe it could be washed out but if it's really oil paint, I would say it's pretty hopeless. And it wouldn't be worth the effort even if you could.
If there was a huge warehouse find of millions of cards from the 1950's in near mint condition and complete sets were put up for sale for $100.00 a set. Knowing that the sets would never go up in value, I wonder how many people would buy them. I definitely would buy every one of them because I am not an investor which I think most people are.
I would buy them all! Money is never first when it comes to cards. You have to love the cards, the historical factors, the players, the game and so much more. Appreciate you stopping by, watching and subscribing. Thank you.
I definitely would buy the sets at affordable value, $100 a set. Just because of the love of stastics and personal improvement of the player. A career year from not. Collected cards at PSA value has ruined me from collecting. But, I have Canadian O pee Chee baseball cards. Big value and little stock.
I have a high-end Topps Chrome card that was graded 20 years ago a Gem Mint 10 but over the years, I've noticed this film on the face of the card under the surface of the PSA casing. I heard it's natural condensation, I heard it's the oils from the cards face which is normal over time. I'm planning on selling this on Ebay but I don't want someone to trip out and complain that it's ruined. It's a beautiful card. Worth alot but what's your take on this wet looking filmy look to the face. I tried shaking it, tapping the corners. It doesn't move which makes me feel it's just stuck to the plastic face of the case. Help!!! Anybody??
Well done video of grading and imperfection on cards. I still cringed when you touch the cards with your bare hands. I don't PSA my cards. But, I have vintage baseball cards of 1967- 1973. There just for my own personal love of cards. Most of my cards are scarred because of what you said, especially gum and wax fold staining. Also the use and handling of the card, with trading and playing with cards. To me just to complete a set, the PSA value is not as important as giving the card.
Bro 13:50. You spent a minute and a half just getting to the defect. You spent that 1.5 min praising how gorgeous your card was but that’s all just wasted time...
Also, nothing about paper loss?
any thoughts on using pantyhose to clean wax stains on vintage cards?
did you get them back yet? lol
Well done video. Very informative. But come on. Those underpaid PSA clowns grading Chunky Davis (or whoever that shmoe was) are spending 11 seconds grading that card. It might get a 3 and it might get a 9. Let's stop pretending it's like having a diamond checked by a guy named Shmuel sitting in a high security back office in a Zurich bank.
Great video, quit biting your fingernails.
Dully noted. Thank you.