Ford Econoline Vans: Blower Motor Switch Failures Causing Meltdowns!
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- čas přidán 3. 09. 2020
- In this video we show you the most common reason why the blower motor does not work properly on the Ford Econoline vans 2003 to present.
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I have a 93 and have this exact issue, except my 1 and 2 speeds always worked. I noticed a smell and saw smoke and knew there was a short. Thank you for showing us this!!!
Totally made sense and straight to the point. 2000 E250 106,000 miles. You described the exact sequence of events that I experienced in the gradual diminishing of my blower. Racing to beat winter here. Just changed out my totally clogged heater core, so now I gotta get this blower working again. Thanks a bunch!!
I've learned so much from this guy. It doesn't seem as complicated once he guides you thru the process. Thank you so much and keep up the good work
This happened to my 2003 Durango. The blower motor resistor failed, so upon disassembly, found the plug in and harness mostly melted. I got replacement parts at the parts store, and wouldn't you know it, the new harness had beefier wire, but every one of them was the same color green. Good thing I have the electrical smarts I do.
Very helpful video. I was able to repair my van thanks to your thorough instructions.
Got a 2001 e250 and this is exactly what is happening to me. Thank you 🙏
GM Astro does this also difference is, the fan switch is part of the control head 👎. Every car has issues. At least we have videos like this to help us repair our rides 👍 Thank you!
As usual great information great knowledge your awesome man!
I appreciate your videos. I'd not mind watching the highlights of the actual component remove and replace just in case there are little plastic bits in the mountings and connectors that are prone to cracking or tricky disassembly. Keep'em coming. Ford does make me loco but so does my Chrysler, Buick and Mitsubishi. My only vehicle that doesn't is my 2012 Fuji Gran Fondo 2.0. 👍👍👍
Thank you so much!! Your videos are pretty informative.
Thank you. Once again you have saved the day for me. My switch melted and then melted the knob, it was so hot that the metal shaft burned my finger one the knob came off.
love your channel. i have a similiar van that the blower works on low and high only and not the two middle speeds. i've replaced the resistor and fan speed switch and still not fixed. this thing is driving me nutty
Thank you for you knowledgeable and concise advice!
This has been a common long running issue…I deal in 72-76 Ford Torino and Mercury Montego cars, and other 72-79 Ford/Mercury intermediates and this has been an eternal issue.
I’d love to have a better way to rewire the system running off relays for the high current side.
Very helpfull i have a 99 now i know what to look for thankyou!!
Keep up the good work. Thank you.
Looks like the exact same switch panel at my grandmothers old 92 Aerostar, crazy how long they kept some of those parts.
Thanks for info.....now I won't be frustrated with replacement of mind...and why 3 parts are needed.
As always Great Informative demonstration video @FordTechMakULoco
This has definitely been a common problem over the years since the 90s
Aloha Brian,
Thanks for a great video. My 2006 F250 had the same problem. Replaced the resistor and switch but noticed the female connector behind the switch is overheated. I could cut and spice a new female connector but so see you have a Motorctaft Kit there...is the kit the repair for the wires? If so, What part number? Thanks again.
Every E350 I have on the switch always goes out I finally had a van where the motor went on the fan
Thanks again great job
That looked good compared to some of the ones I've had to fix..
Thank you for this video!
Brings back memories for me
Another great video!
Good job you look like always ! Respect .
Keep up the good work.
That was a great video. My problem exactly.
In the 1970’s Fords we had a similar problem with the AC switches, in high blower it would burn the switch up because all the current ran through the switch. We would put a relay so in high blower would be run through the relay. I don’t know how those are wired. But would that help with that setup.
I have a question. I have a ford expedition xlt 2004 and the back a/a unit doesn't blow cold air. Also the front a/c goes on and of in all speeds, any ideas can help me out I will appreciate it. Thanks and also your channel help me a lot with my expedition.
Thanks for sharing
Be well be safe
I have the 2013 e350 and my fan only works on high too ! Do you have the part numbers for the pig tail , resistor , and the switch ? Thanks for the video
Thank you for helping me fix mine. 2001 E150
Do you all like my personal ford tec....lol...Brian has his act together fellers....the go to guy....thx Brian...
Do you have the part numbers for each of the items you mention in this video? Thanks
What would you say if it works on all speeds except high
2011 e350 rear ac fan
Thanks very much
Thank you!
Great video. My problem is the same but instead of blowing only on high speed. mine only blows on low speed. Any suggestions for me?
I have that exact same van. Can you do a video on how to remove the dash trim so I dont destroy it?
I have one that continues to come back with the switch melted. We replace the switch, connector and resistor every time. One we even replaced the blower motor as well. It continues to burn up switches. Can you help?
question is this the same for it stuck in low mode / i pull the knob of and the switch was super hot . or is it a short in the wiring?
Don't even own one, but still love to learn. 👍
I wish you would've came out with this video a month ago. This situation happened to my 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Blower burnt also.
Hello,
I have 2003 ford 7.3 diesel. The speedometer does not work. I replaced the both sensors. What else can I do? Thanks
I just wired my switch so tha Only the high works. But my fan still goes slow sometimes and fast others to others I'm thinking I need to bypass the resistors as well?
i have a fleet of e450 vans the earlier ones i had the issues of melting the switch even with new motro and resistor i ended up running the high through a relay took care of the issues now to be fair i have e450 shuttle busses and have carrier ac units
My issue is that the relay for the blower motor on the 2003 blows same blade on the past 3 fuses. sooo...resistor ? Or another issue?
What about if no speed at all, do you think is still the resistor?
I have the same issue. No speed works but when I drive on the freeway, I can feel the faintest cool air coming out of the vents.
Is there bulbs in the heater controls?? Mine do not light up at night. Radio, cruise buttons, dash everything else does. Except the heater controls. Kinds erks me because I csnt see them st Nighy so it's a little annoying. I guess I need to pull the Hester control out and see. From photos I've looked at I don't see any bulbs for them. R the dimmer.lights built into the whole unit?
Great info...please start including part #s for all parts required to do the repairs...
I always do including the special tools needed for a job unless there is an instance like this that there are so many variations it would be impossible to list parts for every year and trim level. I don't want to mis lead viewers if I don't have the correct info for their particular model.
Good video, covers both possibilities. My fan was only working on the lower 3 fan settings, no high. I replaced the resistor, no change. Then I replaced the burned/ melted pigtail & switch, now works perfectly. It's a bitch to get to in a 2010 E150, doesn't have the same easy access panel of the van in the video. Thanks!
Hahahaha, that’s happened to me a couple times. 390k miles on my junk
Thanks
You also want to check the ground for the BM resistor it's by the accumulator drier often the bolt is very rusted and it can caused increased amperage through the switch
Can you explain how a corroded ground can cause higher amperage pull on the switch? Are you saying the ground adds another load in series with the blower motor? Kinda like the resistors in the blower motor resistor? I would think the circuit would break before pulling more amperage, if it did the bolt and ground wire would be hot and melt in some cases.
Didn't mean any disrespect bryan in my experience the increased resistance causes the motor to spin much slower sometimes stopping it letting it sit on one spot on the commutator of the motor passing more amps at a lower voltage than the motor does on high setting which leads to the wires and switch settings for the lower settings to get very hot, also it seems to shorten the life of the BM quite a bit. I may be misunderstanding whats going on but I've had several trucks in the fleet with this issue and that ground always seems to be corroded along with it.
AWSOME!
Nice!!
Well thanks for the Vid but would have been nice to have the Part numbers for the Pigtail kit/Switch/resistor included plus the hardest part of the whole project how to remove the Bezel around/in-front of the switch panel.
Man this is not related to this video but I have a 15 f550 roll back with a 6.8 that has an surge issue nobody around here can diagnose. The a/f ratio pid keeps flopping back and forth . I've replace fuel pump ,fuel pump control module, pcm ,maf sensor ,evap purge solenoid. The intake has been smoked twice no leaks . All parts replaced have been ford parts . Any ideals ? By the way when I first purchased it (82k and recently rebuilt by a ford dealer) would randomly do this once a month now it's an all day everyday concern.
Thanks.
Replaced my upper intake manifold on my 2004 f150 and now it won't start but it will turn over getting fuel and spark will the VCT cause this problem it sat for 3 months before i replaced the manifold
Are you sure you didnt have a gasket fall out or get pinched? Did you miss a plug in for something. Not much else could be wrong if it ran before you changed manifold
What if only low works but not the other speeds? Could it still be same problem?
Guys..... I have a 97 e350 class b RV..
When I turn in the AC... Or just the vent... The heater stays on... The blender is working because I can shift from vent to defrost..etc no problem
The issue is the heater is always on...even when I switch on the AC...
Do you have any suggestions
Mine only works on 4 like you said in the video, also it only blows on the floor none of the other settings like vents or windshield work. Would that be a switch?
Probably resistor and you have a vacuum problem on other know. Broken vacuum line or vacuum servo
How did you take the panel off?
That was jacked!
I replaced all of that and my van still melts . Any advice
Would the same be true for a 92 Bronco?
Does the rear zone have the same set of issues? If so, where on the vehicle is it's resistor? Thanks!
There's a few videos on CZcams that show where the rear auxiliary heat/AC components are located on the Ford Econoline. I'm almost certain that it's located behind the very rear interior panel on the drivers side rear
i watched this video and replaced everything but the harness !! yeah I'm an idiot!, if you do it exactly the way brian says man you will not have a problem, he is solid on the money
Correction, did not stop making them. Still alive and well in stripped chassis form. I deal with this all the time in U-Haul trucks. Standard practice is switch/pigtail/resistor on all of them I come in contact with. I also use Ox-Gard on all connections. The switch is a hopelessly cheap design but is easy to diagnose & change.
Yup I know the heavy duties are still being made but I am talking from the passenger van side of things.
Hi do you think using dielectric grease helps to prevent melting connectors ? Thank you for your time to show it.
No the melting is caused by worn contacts inside the switch assembly.
@@FordTechMakuloco - Why would contacts wear out?
Do you know why my front vents won’t blow air and the rear vents at the top only blow from max AC e-350 ford van 2014
Nice !
Yup, common on these vans👍
Could a melted pigtail cause the ac to blow off and on intermittently? The blower control switches for front and rear were replaced, but they didn't replace the pigtails. Im not sure if he even looked at them since he didn't pull it out like you did. And worked from underneath it.
Replaced the blower motor and the resistor for the front and rear.
The front and rear ac goes off and on intermittently.
I have an electrical question to ask you. How can i e-mail you my question
Oh how I wished you would have filmed how you took out the panel
Could you send a link to the pigtail
Do you know the part number for just the switch?
Should you change the blower motor as well due to high ampere draw?? So the new harness and switch don’t get burnt up
Never seen one cause this in my 20 years of wrenching. This is a common issue with the e series new or old.
I guess this is still better than the sprinter vans. I worked on one that the blower motor just rusted up and seized. It happened around 100k miles on it and only 4 or 5 years old. This was on a van used almost everyday, as you can tell from those miles. These three parts in this video cost less than that one blower motor also.
I have heard of people having had the blower motor changed on a motorhome on a Sprinter chassis, but they can't get it to work again.
I already did that and it did it again so what's causing it ?
I have also had several that the blower motor(although working correctly) was drawing to much amperage..... change the blower motor if you are repeatedly changing switches.
I have never come across that before in all my years. Was the motor shaft binding when turned by hand or did you compare the amperage draw from another known good econoline in the shop?
@@FordTechMakuloco compared to other vans we had.
Yes that’s a good point. I’m just a home mechanic but just changed the resistor and harness on my 2001 F250 and a few years back on my old 4 runner and both fan motors were tight and seemed to be drawing more then they should so went ahead and changed them both also. Not too expensive for the piece of mind it gave me. Great videos! I really appreciate your detailed instruction!
If this were an isolated incident I would have changed the blower motor also but for the econoline vehicles this is quite common of a failure no matter what year.
@@FordTechMakuloco the most common fail for me has been the switch.... we have had a handful of them that would go through a switch every few months and found that the blower motor was the culprit.... and the funny thing is they were not squealing at all.
Could you install a relay so the amperage is not going through the switch?
that was my thought too but I think it's not easy because of the variable speeds.
mine blows low when on high... is it the motor resistor or the switch? the switch does get hot I noticed.
I think it's the switch but should I change both anyways?
I've replaced a lot of blower motor resistors on rangers and almost every one I've done the pigtail has been melted/corroded to the resistors. Is there a similar problem?
yes
@@FordTechMakuloco are the switches the issue in the rangers also or is it the resistors, never pulled a switch out but seen many resistor pigtails melted
Former Ford Dealer Tech here, hey I really respect your opinion and appreciate your sharing your knowledge and experiences with us all... I use 5w30 in the summer and the recommended 5w20 during winter fall and spring while operating my 2011 F150 3.7 ltr .... Do you think it is ok to use 5w30 in the Summer seasons ???
BTW I live in Rhode Island (Climate wise New England region)..
I would stick with 5w-20 year round in this engine.
ok thanks
1983 ford Econoline. No heat. Dose it have a rester
This happened on my 2012 f150. Replaced and used dielectric grease
My connection was on the passenger foot area panel
I'm doing research on the econoline blower fan motor, for upgrading the 72-76 Ford torino blower fan, this is nothing new! Never understood why FoMoCo rammed all the current through a switch. Also seen the full size Chevy vans really suffer from the same issues of control unit burning up and failing. I used to manage a small fleet of Ford Econolines, and Chevy full sized vans.
Fixed a few hundred of them. Sterling heavy trucks same parts same burnt up parts
That is crazy. Why isn't Ford doing anything to fix this? It is their fault.
I recently paid a mechanic to put in a new fuel pump but my gas gauge still isn't accurate and fluxuates, not as bad as before but im tired of going back and not getting it fixed, any idea on what it could be
CHEVON make cleaner that should take can of the problem.
@@rollenschultz2707 ok ill give it a try
What vehicle is it on? Could be a bad ground, or some fuel pumps you swap the sending unit for fuel level into new pump assembly so you would still have same issue.
@@dodgemechanic 2004 f150
@@RayWilliamJohansen I don't think I've ever replaced a fuel pump on a ford, it's usually the driver module on the the crossover frame rail above spare tire. Not sure if fuel level goes through the module but they rot/corrode into a pile of dust
My blower motor is a Chinese replacement from the fan turns where mine gets hot is on high speed...
I have always fixed my own sense I was 14... so I'm no stranger to car problems
Hi! I need some work done to my 03 f150. How can I get my truck to you to give you some business.
There's a link in the description to his business, BSG Automotive. I think he's in Yorkville, Illinois?
Thank you! Thats 20minutes from my house!
FTM may i please ask for your expertised regarding speedometer i have a 1999 f 150 5.4l lariat happened to have a malfunction speedometer all gauges are not working although i still can drive the truck but no means of telling how fast i'm going , engine might overheating, oil pressure, battery etc.etc. Now i bought me a used one thru on line hoping it will be plug and play but that is not the case, so i took it to a local shop and the mechanic tried several attempt to re-programmed but to no avail i then contacted the FORD dealer and the guy said the year my truck manufactured the speedometer now is obsolete and they don't make them anymore . i asked if i bring my used one and re-programmed by there technician regardless if it work or not i have to pay. what is my best option please help. i thank you
I would contact a repair service such as United Radio and see if they can repair your existing cluster. Many times it is nothing but bad solder joints or a small piece that fails and they can be repaired to work like new again. Depending on where you are in the world there are many places that do those repairs if you wanted someone closer.
Maybe it is just a small blown resistor on a circuit board that is causing the problem. They can be taken out and replaced. See if you can find videos about it. I watched a couple of them a few weeks ago, but I can't remember which type of cars they were working on. To remove a blown resistor you buy a small tool that melts the solder points. And then you solder in the replacement resistor. Shouldn't be too difficult. Removind the dash might be tricky, but I am sure there are videos about that too.
@@milcotto4153 Except on modern dashboards you had better be able to solder surface mount parts without damaging the board itself which can be easy to do if you haven't done board level repair daily. The ones online make it look real easy because they have experience and the proper tools. Try doing those repairs without those two items and you will be buying a new board. That is why I suggest a repair center, they can test it, repair it and verify it works and give a warranty. Usually for about the same price as buying the proper tools to do the repairs. Not saying it can't be done, but I've had to repair a lot of damaged boards over the years, as have most other repair places.
@@Blazer02LS - Ok, you are the pro. But it did look easy to me :-)
@@milcotto4153 That's one of the issues with video. It makes it look real easy. The catch is that there are many parts in there that are not common ones and many are not available to the public, if they are damaged the board becomes scrap. Something like replacing the servos or re-flowing a couple parts can be easy. Determining which parts are at fault though, that is the trick.
So no relay at all, huh? I've got an '01 350, and neither front or rear switches work on any setting.
my 1997 ford e van is blowing the blower fuse