Thanks to this video I just replaced all four bulbs in my display. Bought a set of two pack automotive bulbs fr Walmart and changed all of them to ensure consistency. I also took the opportunity to vacuum all of the dust from between the screen and window before putting it back together. Now my vsx-5000 looks almost brand new.
It's awesome to see one of these old receivers being covered! I have a VSX 4000 (the model without Dolby) luckily with the original remote and it's one of the best amplifiers I've ever had. I never would have guessed the display was an LCD but it's pretty cool how Pioneer used wedge lights typically used in vehicle dashboards of the era for the backlight. The amplifier has some interesting video features being an AV unit. It can show two different pictures in a split screen format and also has a video enhancer button (the sliders on the left of the display). I have yet to try these functions out on my unit but it would be interesting to see them in operation.
This video was perfect for me! I just purchased a VSX-5000 with remote a few days ago and the sound is incredible along with being in really good physical condition. It does appear that I have one or more light bulbs out and this video is the perfect guide to changing them out. I'm a purist, so I'm gonna replace the bulbs with the same type though. This stereo is a perfect addition to my 80s home.
Nice job! Once again a classic bad solders case. Also a common cause on many electronic parts submitted to heat or vibration stress, the first thing to look at in all power supplies, CRT TV deviation amps and audio circuits, but also many early tin wave soldered PCB. It's a frequent problem on raiser connectors with non supported boards, when connectors are not broken first. This JVC receiver is surprisingly a good surprise for maintenance access and design, you know many of these surround multiway amps are mostly super packed multi flatwires and connectors nest, boards you can't access directly without complete dismantling / then impossible to check in circuit, ton of screws and hours of headache on the bench. They generally end as No No at most service stations, and surprisingly, the most expensive units from Yamaha and Denon tend to be the best candidate for that bad spaghetti noodles plate syndrom. The bulbs can easily be replaced with T10 white LEDs bulbs and a small mod, and if you still have flickering problems, you can easily solve that transforming the AC supply with a single diode and a cap. Those bulbs also exist in other colors like green or blue, wich is interesting as most old bulb colors filters are prone to deterioration. It's a perfect thing for many tuners, receivers, and also large Vu-meters including those bulbs, and you generally don't need to open light boxes or unmount part of the face plate. The only initial condition is to verify the initial AC supply and check if it works for your 12V LEDs, a classic 8V AC supply is still OK (it's higher when rectified!). I've also seen rare 36V DC, and had to reduce that with a resistor and use 24V LEDs. The best bulbs you have to choose from are those with a plastic holder and effective wires, not the PCB as connector model (T10 and smaller T5 bulbs are originally wedge based with lateral pinched wires). The plastic holder can easily go if you have limited space, and you only have to solder and insulate old wiring to these wires. You can also use small parts of white filters from old backlit screens to limit luminosity difference, but this is generally unnecessary as the original flux boxes where finely designed and bulbs can be less directional than LEDs strips, especially those with incorporated lenses.
A good old beast and your display lighting looks perfect, the lcd looks crisp and easy to look at. Some displays are just overboard with crap colour and brightness :-( I like the trap door, nice access :-D My frends Tensi tapedeck had bulbs to light the vu meters, the bulbs were dead of cause. I replaced them with non smd white leds that i sanded to make them opaque. Then rigged up a 7805 as a constant current regulator with a preset so my frend could adjust it to his liking. Perfect white lighting :-D
That's so fun when You end up having to rip out the board and resolder every single component to be sure it's ok again. Cause you can't be sure that you can spot every bad solder joint. BTW to avoid LED flicker on AC just put to in parallel, one in each direction. So one lights during positive half, and the other during the negative.
No, that is NOT the correct way to solve flicker, plus it's horrible to reverse bias the LEDs like that. Simply rectify the AC to DC using (eg: 1N4004) diode bridge... then add a smoothing capacitor. Then a simple current regulator, eg: 780x series linear regulator wired for Constant Current rather than Constant Voltage (per datasheet).
You Need A Fintip. I Had To Get Me A Couple Of Them. I'm a Weller Guy For Doing Soldering. Like I Said I Bought Me a Couple Of Those Weller To Do Fine work Without Burning Up The Small Component Like Replacement Audio & DC Power Jacks.
I had experienced a similar problem with my Pioneer VSA 910 Amp, in which all pins of the Surround Power Amp IC were loose, and no sound was coming through the surround speakers. After re-soldering all the pins, the amo started to function normally.
hi mate, love your video's very informative, can i ask you a ? i purchased a technics amp of ebay and it's a great looking amp in full working order, or was lol, i tried it the first day it arrived and it had the old Vacuum display, it look brilliant, i only plug it in and had to nip to the mens room, on returning the display had gone on one side and the lights on the graphic equaliser had gone out, no sound at all, no tuner display, my question could a simple solder joint crack cause this to happen, i am no electrician and it's you that's got me into this old hi-fi tec, they just sound better to me, anyway i be grateful if u might have any idea the amp in question is Technics SA-R210L, thanks
I have the same unit if I use speakers A and B on 2 channel stereo it works fine but if I use B for surround it doesn't the one ic (i think thats what it is) is split in to
wonderful video! Why didn't you install four individual LED's, (or four sets of two?), one for each bulb replaced. Any particular reason or was that a stylistic choice. Keep up the good work!
Awesome videos !! Thank you for sharing !! How do you open the white/grey ribbon cable connectors to release the tension so the cable can be pulled out ? The seem to have a locking clip on each side. Is there a special tool you use or ? Thanks !!!
pioneer VSX-1020 pqls flashing--- Had no problems over past 11 years until the past couple of weeks. We now have a repeatedly shuts down and the blinking PQLS red light and will not power on. But when I power unplug and re-plug there is click in sound which show it was ON but only show blinking PQLS red light nothing else. I tryed all speaker and HDMI unplug but same as it is.
Running the LED strip on AC is not a good idea. The reverse breakdown voltage of a typical LED is 4 volts, so with a few in series on the strip the breakdown can be close to the peak AC voltage and reduce reliability
Nice fix. Was hoping it was a dim VFD fix. I've a VERY dim VFD display and i hear there's a crafty way to regenerate them with a brief high voltage applied carefully to the right electrode/grid...?
Yes unfortunately VFDs are renowned for dimming over time. I have a high-end Technics component system where the Tuner display (a multi-function job) is almost completely gone.
I believe the US military ditched the lead free solder some time ago and went back to the leaded solder because of tin whisker problems causing failures also.
That's funny I have one of these and plays fine but it won't go into stereo on FM! So radio on Fm is mono all the time no matter what I do! I did resolder a lot of cracked solder joints on Ics and regulators as well! So now both channels work fine and when i put something into CD input i get stereo so tells me that the Amp part is good! Must be a bad tuner board!
Its not electric central heat. The central heat for the house is a heat pump (so I guess it is electric after all) but the work shop has a small 5KW electric heater as it gets dam cold out here in the winter, and I bake in the summer.
@@12voltvids I would not expect a heat pump as the main central heating in the cold winter climate of Canada. I thought those are the most efficient above 0...5°C, and almost don't work (or with very bad efficiency) under -5...-10°C. Or are these specs outdated with modern heat pumps?
@@mrnmrn1 What do you think we live in igloos here? In the dead of winter, where I am it rarely gets below -5c. The coldest it has been here since the house was built in 2002 was -9. There is a backup gas furnace and it only kicks in for a couple of minutes when the system goes into defrost, and heats the coils up to melt the ice, then it is back off again. If the temperature drops below -10 it goes into gas mode, but that never happens. I am right on the water, so I get the warm ocean air all year. We also rarely get snow here. Usually under 5cm per year.
@@12voltvids I never believe that anything made in Japan is crap. China makes bad electronics unless it’s a US or Japan electronics company using their cheap labor and telling them how to do everything.
@@richardbicker640 Hmmmm where do I start. Any 8mm camera made by Sony or canon in the 80s and into 90s, Mitsubishi VHS VCRs in the mid 80s, Mitsubishi VCRs from the 90s, Sony xbr televisions (changed hundreds of bad CRTs) for that matter all the Sony TV's, that had that red HV resistor that startes sending lightning bolts out the to the ground shroud and scaring the shit out of the owner. There were plenty of crap Japanese products. Ask anyone that was in the business. Panasonic microwaves that had bad stack diodes and HV capacitor. Should i continue?
@@richardbicker640 Tell that to all the kv25XBR users i had to replace an out of warranty picture tube for. I must have changed 100 or so. Then there were the 3lcd grand wega sets that 100% of the optical engines failed on. So many that Sony were giving people new sets for broken ones 5 years out of warranty. You may not have had failures but i worked in a warranty depot and i saw tons of Japanese crap electronics.
This is what happens when manufacturers didnt use fans, a simple slow running 80mm fan would stop this from ever happening. and why the great STK chips got a bad name. nothing was cooled properly, try running a PC without fans
Do u know how I can fix the dimming display of the pioneer XR A700 model? I have two and both are dimming and its sad to see. Cant find a replacement part. Item is from 1998.
@@12voltvids Thank you for your reply. All of the XR A700 models and Pioneer XR A800 models I see on youtube or on ebay have very dim or dimming displays. It seems to be a recurring issue. Do you think if I sent a photo, u can kind of tell whether its the Vft tube itself or some thing else thats going on to send lower voltage to the screen? The part model I believe is pioneer awp7013 (for the display) If you see this link, it shows the XR A800 model, check the second screen, starts at the 45 second mark, that is basically how my screen also looks (note the second display for the bass section at the bottom of the unit, the display seems to be much better) czcams.com/video/q7OJyD0-l88/video.html Thank you!
@@12voltvids Ugh. What do I do now? I love the Pioneer XR A series from 1998. It seems like this part was not designed properly, because it seems right after 1998, they changed it entirely.
Is there any reason you didn't simply solder in new W5W automotive bulbs? Since they looked pretty much the same form factor, the only issue I can think is perhaps they'd draw excessive current being 5 watts/piece but not sure of the amperage of the originals. certainly something I'd have looked into before succumbing to the LEDs. By the way, Dave... DAAAAAVE! THAT DISPLAY DOESN'T LOOK RIGHT ON SCREEN THEREFORE IT LOOKS GODAWFUL IN PERSON. YOU OUGHTA BE ASHAMED YOU HACK... AND YOU NEVER EVEN CHANGED A SINGLE CAP SO HOW CAN IT BE FIXED?
Thank you for showing me how to replace the bulbs in my VSX5000 has been bad for years !!!
Dave,
Thanks so much for showing the thermo problems that can happen with these circuits. I am still learning so this kind of information is gold!
Given how long the original bulbs lasted I would have just gone for incandescent replacements.
Thanks to this video I just replaced all four bulbs in my display. Bought a set of two pack automotive bulbs fr Walmart and changed all of them to ensure consistency. I also took the opportunity to vacuum all of the dust from between the screen and window before putting it back together. Now my vsx-5000 looks almost brand new.
It's awesome to see one of these old receivers being covered! I have a VSX 4000 (the model without Dolby) luckily with the original remote and it's one of the best amplifiers I've ever had. I never would have guessed the display was an LCD but it's pretty cool how Pioneer used wedge lights typically used in vehicle dashboards of the era for the backlight.
The amplifier has some interesting video features being an AV unit. It can show two different pictures in a split screen format and also has a video enhancer button (the sliders on the left of the display). I have yet to try these functions out on my unit but it would be interesting to see them in operation.
This video was perfect for me! I just purchased a VSX-5000 with remote a few days ago and the sound is incredible along with being in really good physical condition. It does appear that I have one or more light bulbs out and this video is the perfect guide to changing them out. I'm a purist, so I'm gonna replace the bulbs with the same type though. This stereo is a perfect addition to my 80s home.
I just sold this one last week. Got 40 bucks for it.
Interesting repair. Great camera shots in closeup of solder joints.
Nice job! Once again a classic bad solders case. Also a common cause on many electronic parts submitted to heat or vibration stress, the first thing to look at in all power supplies, CRT TV deviation amps and audio circuits, but also many early tin wave soldered PCB. It's a frequent problem on raiser connectors with non supported boards, when connectors are not broken first. This JVC receiver is surprisingly a good surprise for maintenance access and design, you know many of these surround multiway amps are mostly super packed multi flatwires and connectors nest, boards you can't access directly without complete dismantling / then impossible to check in circuit, ton of screws and hours of headache on the bench. They generally end as No No at most service stations, and surprisingly, the most expensive units from Yamaha and Denon tend to be the best candidate for that bad spaghetti noodles plate syndrom.
The bulbs can easily be replaced with T10 white LEDs bulbs and a small mod, and if you still have flickering problems, you can easily solve that transforming the AC supply with a single diode and a cap. Those bulbs also exist in other colors like green or blue, wich is interesting as most old bulb colors filters are prone to deterioration. It's a perfect thing for many tuners, receivers, and also large Vu-meters including those bulbs, and you generally don't need to open light boxes or unmount part of the face plate. The only initial condition is to verify the initial AC supply and check if it works for your 12V LEDs, a classic 8V AC supply is still OK (it's higher when rectified!). I've also seen rare 36V DC, and had to reduce that with a resistor and use 24V LEDs. The best bulbs you have to choose from are those with a plastic holder and effective wires, not the PCB as connector model (T10 and smaller T5 bulbs are originally wedge based with lateral pinched wires). The plastic holder can easily go if you have limited space, and you only have to solder and insulate old wiring to these wires. You can also use small parts of white filters from old backlit screens to limit luminosity difference, but this is generally unnecessary as the original flux boxes where finely designed and bulbs can be less directional than LEDs strips, especially those with incorporated lenses.
Fantastic shots and explanation!
Nice. Especially like the camera lens comparison as I have the AX 33.
The ax33 is better for close up. It even feels better in the hand. The 53 feels cheap by comparison.
A good old beast and your display lighting looks perfect, the lcd looks crisp and easy to look at.
Some displays are just overboard with crap colour and brightness :-(
I like the trap door, nice access :-D
My frends Tensi tapedeck had bulbs to light the vu meters, the bulbs were dead of cause.
I replaced them with non smd white leds that i sanded to make them opaque.
Then rigged up a 7805 as a constant current regulator with a preset so my frend could adjust it to his liking.
Perfect white lighting :-D
Nice to see another Pioneer saved! Great video, keep em coming 😎
Wow you know your stuff. I love the display fix ❤
I enjoy your videos. Thank you!
That's so fun when You end up having to rip out the board and resolder every single component to be sure it's ok again.
Cause you can't be sure that you can spot every bad solder joint.
BTW to avoid LED flicker on AC just put to in parallel, one in each direction.
So one lights during positive half, and the other during the negative.
No, that is NOT the correct way to solve flicker, plus it's horrible to reverse bias the LEDs like that.
Simply rectify the AC to DC using (eg: 1N4004) diode bridge... then add a smoothing capacitor. Then a simple current regulator, eg: 780x series linear regulator wired for Constant Current rather than Constant Voltage (per datasheet).
I see it does say "LCD DISPLAY" on the front panel. Glad it was simple lamps and solder rework.
Thank you, nice explanations.
Cold solder joints were a big problem with Pioneers from this era.
Dave, those incandescent lamps for the backlight looks like T10 automotive bulbs, which are available as LED lamps.....
Why? Just use incandescent... they've lasted 30 or 40 years, when replaced they will probably last longer than Dave will be alive
You Need A Fintip. I Had To Get Me A Couple Of
Them. I'm a Weller Guy For Doing Soldering.
Like I Said I Bought Me a Couple Of Those
Weller To Do Fine work Without Burning Up
The Small Component Like Replacement
Audio & DC Power Jacks.
Thanks, very educative
Watching sir..nice unit of pioneer.
Good job.
shop I worked at sold a LOT of those. Had to replace a bunch of FM processor IC's LM7001 About the time when Pioneer went to crap!
I had experienced a similar problem with my Pioneer VSA 910 Amp, in which all pins of the Surround Power Amp IC were loose, and no sound was coming through the surround speakers. After re-soldering all the pins, the amo started to function normally.
hi mate, love your video's very informative, can i ask you a ? i purchased a technics amp of ebay and it's a great looking amp in full working order, or was lol, i tried it the first day it arrived and it had the old Vacuum display, it look brilliant, i only plug it in and had to nip to the mens room, on returning the display had gone on one side and the lights on the graphic equaliser had gone out, no sound at all, no tuner display, my question could a simple solder joint crack cause this to happen, i am no electrician and it's you that's got me into this old hi-fi tec, they just sound better to me, anyway i be grateful if u might have any idea the amp in question is Technics SA-R210L, thanks
I have the same unit if I use speakers A and B on 2 channel stereo it works fine but if I use B for surround it doesn't the one ic (i think thats what it is) is split in to
wonderful video! Why didn't you install four individual LED's, (or four sets of two?), one for each bulb replaced. Any particular reason or was that a stylistic choice. Keep up the good work!
4 led wouldn't provide the same light level. The strip i put in had 6 LEDs with 3 LEDs in each. I installed what i had on hand.
You are a great technician !!
Cool..
Awesome videos !! Thank you for sharing !! How do you open the white/grey ribbon cable connectors to release the tension so the cable can be pulled out ? The seem to have a locking clip on each side. Is there a special tool you use or ? Thanks !!!
They are all different. Some you push down b
pioneer VSX-1020 pqls flashing--- Had no problems over past 11 years until the past couple of weeks. We now have a repeatedly shuts down and the blinking PQLS red light and will not power on. But when I power unplug and re-plug there is click in sound which show it was ON but only show blinking PQLS red light nothing else. I tryed all speaker and HDMI unplug but same as it is.
Running the LED strip on AC is not a good idea. The reverse breakdown voltage of a typical LED is 4 volts, so with a few in series on the strip the breakdown can be close to the peak AC voltage and reduce reliability
Yep. Totally the wrong way to do it. You'd think that someone like Dave would know about diodes for rectification and capacitors for smoothing....
Regarding your new camera, I think maybe you're finding what i often do Dave... newer is not always better.
Nice fix.
Was hoping it was a dim VFD fix.
I've a VERY dim VFD display and i hear there's a crafty way to regenerate them with a brief high voltage applied carefully to the right electrode/grid...?
Yes unfortunately VFDs are renowned for dimming over time. I have a high-end Technics component system where the Tuner display (a multi-function job) is almost completely gone.
I believe the US military ditched the lead free solder some time ago and went back to the leaded solder because of tin whisker problems causing failures also.
I got a lifetime support of leaded solder, dunno if i should/could use it. :D
Sir, have you ever calibrated Otari MX5050 BII-2 rtr deck? I'd like to send mine in for SM911 tape.
👏👏👏
And your reason for immaturely adding 3 yellow bobs of shit are?
👍👍😎✌️
That's funny I have one of these and plays fine but it won't go into stereo on FM! So radio on Fm is mono all the time no matter what I do! I did resolder a lot of cracked solder joints on Ics and regulators as well! So now both channels work fine and when i put something into CD input i get stereo so tells me that the Amp part is good! Must be a bad tuner board!
I always question things that seem odd in your videos (Like Electric central heat!), but then i remember you aren't in the backwards land, lol
Its not electric central heat. The central heat for the house is a heat pump (so I guess it is electric after all) but the work shop has a small 5KW electric heater as it gets dam cold out here in the winter, and I bake in the summer.
@@12voltvids I would not expect a heat pump as the main central heating in the cold winter climate of Canada. I thought those are the most efficient above 0...5°C, and almost don't work (or with very bad efficiency) under -5...-10°C. Or are these specs outdated with modern heat pumps?
@@mrnmrn1 What do you think we live in igloos here?
In the dead of winter, where I am it rarely gets below -5c. The coldest it has been here since the house was built in 2002 was -9. There is a backup gas furnace and it only kicks in for a couple of minutes when the system goes into defrost, and heats the coils up to melt the ice, then it is back off again. If the temperature drops below -10 it goes into gas mode, but that never happens. I am right on the water, so I get the warm ocean air all year. We also rarely get snow here. Usually under 5cm per year.
@Orange OwL
Last time I was in Calgary was 2007 on my Harley in July and it fu**ING SNOWED.
You really get some beat up equipment.
It's all like this. Everything is scratched up and dinged. Nobody cares about this crap.
@@12voltvids I never believe that anything made in Japan is crap. China makes bad electronics unless it’s a US or Japan electronics company using their cheap labor and telling them how to do everything.
@@rancosteel
I repaired plenty of pieces made in japan. Japanese made some great tech but also crap just like China. China makes great stuff and crap.
@@richardbicker640
Hmmmm where do I start. Any 8mm camera made by Sony or canon in the 80s and into 90s, Mitsubishi VHS VCRs in the mid 80s, Mitsubishi VCRs from the 90s, Sony xbr televisions (changed hundreds of bad CRTs) for that matter all the Sony TV's, that had that red HV resistor that startes sending lightning bolts out the to the ground shroud and scaring the shit out of the owner. There were plenty of crap Japanese products. Ask anyone that was in the business.
Panasonic microwaves that had bad stack diodes and HV capacitor. Should i continue?
@@richardbicker640
Tell that to all the kv25XBR users i had to replace an out of warranty picture tube for. I must have changed 100 or so. Then there were the 3lcd grand wega sets that 100% of the optical engines failed on. So many that Sony were giving people new sets for broken ones 5 years out of warranty. You may not have had failures but i worked in a warranty depot and i saw tons of Japanese crap electronics.
Or If You Want To Zoom In On Circuit boards Download The Coazy Magnifire APP
This is what happens when manufacturers didnt use fans, a simple slow running 80mm fan would stop this from ever happening. and why the great STK chips got a bad name. nothing was cooled properly, try running a PC without fans
Do u know how I can fix the dimming display of the pioneer XR A700 model? I have two and both are dimming and its sad to see. Cant find a replacement part. Item is from 1998.
If the voltage is correct for the display then it will be the vfd tube.
@@12voltvids Thank you for your reply. All of the XR A700 models and Pioneer XR A800 models I see on youtube or on ebay have very dim or dimming displays. It seems to be a recurring issue. Do you think if I sent a photo, u can kind of tell whether its the Vft tube itself or some thing else thats going on to send lower voltage to the screen? The part model I believe is pioneer awp7013 (for the display) If you see this link, it shows the XR A800 model, check the second screen, starts at the 45 second mark, that is basically how my screen also looks (note the second display for the bass section at the bottom of the unit, the display seems to be much better) czcams.com/video/q7OJyD0-l88/video.html Thank you!
@@Shamsithaca
Likely the display tube is failing.
@@12voltvids Ugh. What do I do now? I love the Pioneer XR A series from 1998. It seems like this part was not designed properly, because it seems right after 1998, they changed it entirely.
@@Shamsithaca not much you can. My Panasonic DVD recorded is the same. Display is so dim I have to turn the lights off to see it.
Is there any reason you didn't simply solder in new W5W automotive bulbs? Since they looked pretty much the same form factor, the only issue I can think is perhaps they'd draw excessive current being 5 watts/piece but not sure of the amperage of the originals. certainly something I'd have looked into before succumbing to the LEDs.
By the way, Dave... DAAAAAVE! THAT DISPLAY DOESN'T LOOK RIGHT ON SCREEN THEREFORE IT LOOKS GODAWFUL IN PERSON. YOU OUGHTA BE ASHAMED YOU HACK... AND YOU NEVER EVEN CHANGED A SINGLE CAP SO HOW CAN IT BE FIXED?
I honestly don't understand why people bother repairing such crap? Why not get a new receiver?