I recently repowered a Realistic SA-1001 amplifier, I recapped the hole amp and changed the 1051 to3 driver transistors to 2N3055G transistors, oh my God what a performer, I was not exspecting it to work that well, but wow what a surprise it was, I am highly impressed, only if you could hear this amp I, I’m sure it would definitely meet your approval and then some. What a great amplifier.👍
That Sansui sounds much better than the other amp. I had one of these and I used to use it for the high-end of my DJ system. The only trouble I ever had was the fan circuit went out so I mounted a wall-wart on the inside and provided 12 volts for the fan. When you plugged in the amp, the fan came on. I paid $200 for it back in the 80's.
Thanks for another great vid, I use the preamp for all the inputs and outputs it has and the processor input/output for the graphic equalizer. They sure don't make em like this anymore!
My three children each own a cat, which basically means I take care of three cats, one of them really likes my clothes. Thank you for another great video. I was wondering how to begin finding the reason for the flat sound.
I also have one, i found the low voltage rectifier caps leaking, and high resistant on the protection relay contacts, cleaned their contacts and it sounds better.
Nice repair! In some occasions capasitance test could fool you (not you). Meter can in rare cases show higher capacitance, because slightly bad cap charges slower to it's value and meter shows higher capacitance value.
21:10 "It takes 3 times as long to fix something when you've got a camera in your face...." I agree.......I film repairs on CZcams also, but when I'm backed up, I cut back on the filming.
Nailed my question on muddy sound. Ill have to check that path in my SR-904. Full crank on the treble using some big JBL floorstanders and some AR monitors even on CD's.
that was definitely sold at the same time as my garbage A-1100. same STK voltage amp and same power rating but smaller output transistors. TO-3P at almost 70V rails and ive scoped it at over 120W into 8 ohm with 1 channel driven! hot hot hot!! sounds like shite and has horrible damping factor. i have the entire stack and as much as i want to like it everytime i pull it out it doesnt stay out for a day lol
I have a 1980 t-80 sansui am/fm stereo tuner that has the analog tuning dial,,,along with a digital tuning display too. It works really well,,,after replacing dial light and realigning the built-in ferrite core antenna coil to get am band working again as it should too.
These T80 SANSUI is in this low cost serie, a kind of technical compromise with only a digital frequency counter on the IF side of a classical low end analog tuner. This digital divider circuitry is a fragile nightmare on a special board, modern technology could easily replace on a single IC. Some models are also known for temperature drift, wich means aging transistors and caps and difficult alignments. You can't expect top receiving performances with such a model (nor the simpler T60), but I must admit it's surprisingly sounding good. However, you can easily locate early 90's digital tuner from Yamaha or Denon that will globally work finer than a T80 for a ridiculous budgets, specially in countries where DAB+ is replacing FM band. And if you still want a Sansui Tuner, the former TU417 is a reasonable high quality analog tuner, easy to align and eventually modify, with plenty of space and documentations. And if you're an absolute audiophile or FM quality control tech, TU-X1 is probably one of the best tuner available with a budget around 1.000 /1.500$!
In regards to a total recap..... I think that applies more to 40's through 60's gear where the electrolytics are totally shot. I change paper and Electrolytic on those.
That's right. Old paper caps and the black beauties need to go on the old tube gear. Capacitors from the late 60s and into the 70s were fantastic. Most used PCB oil in them and they lasted forever. Then they had to get the PCBs out and there were bad ones made in 90s and into 2000s.
DEpressing stuff. In the end they tried to appeal to the premiun market again, but they lost it. After the Supercompo series Sansui fate was seal. They tried to follow Akai and many other on the cheap side and failed miserably. On the other hand, the market for thing like the 717, AU9000, G9000, 22000 or even the 33000 started to get smaller and smaller because masse consumer could only afford Supercompo style of cheap separetes with cardboard bottom. Kinda of Technics 90s garbage racks. But, Technics had superior industrial desgin on their rubbish so from the far, it looke like an expensive gear, and from the inside like a vomit.
I've got the same system, had the whole system but just have the preamp and amp now, pitched the rest of it through the years. It's always worked, it's powerful but just kind of blaa sounding even through an eq part of that could be the chiepie jbl Northridge nd310's I'm running as the tweeters are blaa on those speakers as well. Heard this amp is from the "kabuki" era of sansui, It's been my go back to system through the years after various av receivers I've had have come and gone and weren't worth fixing.
Thank you for explaining and showing the diagrams -- this help educate me. Trying to learn how to play with repairing amplifiers/electronics as a hobby. Cheers! (Got a great laugh out of smells like cat piss... :). )
Maybe the poorer sound was simply due to a bad circuit design. How do I very quickly check TO92 BJTs in circuit? I have built cheap Chinese radio kits. I have soldered in a component, realized it was the wrong component, desoldered it out and resoldered in the correct component. However, I lift the copper foil pattern and destroy the PCB. My iron is at 450, and I hold the iron 2 to 3 seconds on the pad. What am I doing wrong? Frank
I have my Denon RCD-M40 CD receiver micro component system showing Power circuit error for the last couple of days! There was some voltage fluctuations in the line and it's fixed but still the error in Denon. Tried to reset the error by pressing source and next button while inserting the power plug, then the play button as in the service manual but the error don't go away! I have this standby LED blinking red straight after the power supply. Any ideas?
Don't know if you have noticed but the latest videos have some jerky motion when something moves fast. Like reverse field order in interlaced video. Could it be a camera problem?
When you changed those 2 caps , you might have added good quality caps, those units didn't come with great quality to start with........ How is that newer power supply treating you ???
A question about recapping. When you have a late 70s component, and when it gets powered it smells strongly of what i believe is capacitor oil or something like that. Does it need all capacitors replaced then? , or just the big ones and the ones in the audio path?. I have inspected the board and there seems to be no leak from any cap. The amp and the cassette deck that have this problem, (Technics both), have good sound, not sure if it could be better after recap, but I suspect yes. I assume capacitors were of better quality in the 70s than after, but the smell is quite overpowering and it makes me a bit sick.
You're likely just smelling the odor of wherever it was stored or used for a long time. Leaking caps don't really smell like anything until you're heating them with a soldering iron. Then you'll smell a metallic fishy odor that is very distinctive.
Some idiots clean their Hifi stuff with inadapted products like WD40. The smell of old bakelite boards with old dust and 40 + years deposits is everything but discrete, specially on heat sources. Even properly cleaned (isopropylic alcohol, vaccum cleaner, toothbrush an qtips...), a distinctive smell always remains. Leaking caps are generally of distinctive oily smell, some smell rotten fish. Beware of aging carbon resistors wich have drifted and may smell a lot before burning. Note that kitchen oily smells and smoke deposits are nearly impossible to eliminate. Nicotin deposits easily kill every electronic and optical equipment!
Good job once again, you saved another one from the bin, temporarily. And this Sansui series is still sounding awfull for me, these plastic sides brown face never ever went to the level of it's predecessors, but hey, they were sold at a portion of an AU series. Technically, the replacement of the input decoupling caps is certainly the first thing I would also have done first, and probably also the others electrolytics surrounding this STK, but questions about effective results with such an aging technology and STK availability as a main suspect are also leading many experienced tech to stop investigate further, not even trying so called audio caps for instance. Most of these hybrid amps include caps that are impossible to check and could possibly suffer from high temps and age. And I perfectly approve your conclusions about time and material to spend on this on this Sansewer. In French, I'd name it a Sansuite, meaning nothing further to do. And if someone sold this for 20 bucks, let say that was probably not unjustified, with a "sticker" syndrome meaning a lot about fiability. In the mid 80's, most Japanese manufacturers like Sansui, Technics, Sony, Pioneer, Akaï... were still producing fabulous products but also tons of those nasty entry level shits in the same time, and that was confusing as you could not easily sell a 1000$ amp justifying a better quality when you could buy a complete system for the same money, including loudspeakers. This problem went more acute when trend went to miniaturization, most of what was produced was nothing good, pros were considering loudspeakers sounding no better as shoe boxes. These sort of easy to market entry level garbage were a time bomb that killed many audio manufacturers in their reputation, and things got even worse when crisis hit Japan in the 90's. I remember the early tremors when "made in China" stickers first arrived on most of the machines previously made in Japan, even prestigious brands followed the downfall to hell. Survivors are now mostly owned by Chinese pension funds or capitals, and China is now also producing high end products.
Yup garbage. I have a technics suv9 in my studio that sounds fantastic. One of the better sounding amps made before technics went to the STK module amps. Variable bias class A very low distortion and plenty of power.
They are making very high quality products in China. Yaquin amplifier was rated number 2 tube amp just behind the Canadian made dynaco st70. I have one of those yaquin on my living room speakers. Sounds bloody awesome. Yaquin wind their own iron in house and they will stand up to anything on the market.
Yes, if the STK fails this one is toast, but it is FORBIDDEN to recycle it as is, that gigantic power transformer and the heatsinks can make a good base for a great DIY amplifier.
@@mrnmrn1Believe me, this crap and any parts are nowhere to be found in a serious HiFi collection: it's part of the most dispised and low cost SANSUI series. It's a 20$ ensemble, when amongst the best series from the early 70's, a model AU555A (2x25Watts) is estimated around 500$! Repairing this kind of amp is only interesting for the technical demonstration, with the final goal to use as a minimal temporary system. Power transformer is not that big, as this amp has limited dimensions enclosure (with plastic sides), and I doubt voltages and currents will fit any class D amp as is. Heatsinks are also absolute crap, a low cost joke with a noise making fan, certainly not what any high power real HiFi amp deserves. Main filtering caps are also probably near end of life... I don't believe more than 30 W class AB kit could eventually fit in with a new radiator set! The reference Pioneer receiver is far more interesting, and better sounding as is. Try a mid range underestimated Denon or Yamaha for less than 150 bucks, but don't waste any time nor money in a project like that!
@@alexispieltin9379 I agree, this amp is mostly junk, BUT. The rear says 540VA power consumption, the datasheet says 9.6kg. So it has to be a half decent transformer. Class AB is fine to me, so the transformer would fit, although I like class D amps, but I have no problems with a good class AB either. I don't have any problems with the heatsinks either. The fan turns on only under high load, when its noise doesn't matter a lot. I was not talking about to build a high-end amp with these parts, just a fun DIY 'party amp'. (Although for a party amp Class-D would be better, fair enough). The majority of the cost is the power transformer and the heatsinks in a solid state DIY amp, so if someone already has, or can buy for peanuts this junk Sansewage with a dead unobtainium STK, better to build something out of it than to send it to recycling.
Bias won't change on DC amplifiers unless a semi or resistor has been changed. It's only my son's amp and who knows when he is going to use it. He just has his big cans stuck to his head all day.
Hi I got sansui S-X1130 the whole panel lights up cd aux phono together and can’t seem to select any of them individualy was told by the repair shop it’s an ic number TC9152AP but they can’t get hold of one r they right about the findings or can u please help READ MORE
Generally they do not run at low power levels as they are noisy. So they come on at higher power or if temperature of heat sink rises over certain temperature.
You daft bugger, i had to laugh at san-sewage :-D If fresh caps didnt fix it, i would bodge a couple of 1nF caps across the input resistors to add some top lift.
With the crappy RCA cables you're using, you won't be able to detect much improvement, even if you replace the entire amp with an audiophile grade one... I don't believe in fancy snake oil cables, but Amazon basics is the bare minimum...
No, in response to the observation of "dull" high frequencies, check frequency response by checking amplitude of the output when sweeping the input with a sine wave 20 - 20kHz. Do this before and after changing the input cap. Check for "higher" frequency roll off in dB.
Here is some info about these modules: www.audiolabga.com/pdf/STK3152III.pdf and www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/268473-fake-stk3152-stk3102.html with a possible schematic for the module. Wonder if it is possible to remake a new one out of discrete components.
me and a group on audiokarma make a discreet replacement for that STK3102 series from TO-126 parts. Never got to testing it tho as my issue was the original output transistor was physically broke
I recently repowered a Realistic SA-1001 amplifier, I recapped the hole amp and changed the 1051 to3 driver transistors to 2N3055G transistors, oh my God what a performer, I was not exspecting it to work that well, but wow what a surprise it was, I am highly impressed, only if you could hear this amp I, I’m sure it would definitely meet your approval and then some. What a great amplifier.👍
That Sansui sounds much better than the other amp. I had one of these and I used to use it for the high-end of my DJ system. The only trouble I ever had was the fan circuit went out so I mounted a wall-wart on the inside and provided 12 volts for the fan. When you plugged in the amp, the fan came on. I paid $200 for it back in the 80's.
I appreciate how you name your videos so that they are easily found with google when looking for advice to a certain problem :)
Good repair, back in the day we called them Sansewer.
Thanks for another great vid, I use the preamp for all the inputs and outputs it has and the processor input/output for the graphic equalizer. They sure don't make em like this anymore!
My three children each own a cat, which basically means I take care of three cats, one of them really likes my clothes. Thank you for another great video. I was wondering how to begin finding the reason for the flat sound.
I also have one, i found the low voltage rectifier caps leaking, and high resistant on the protection relay contacts, cleaned their contacts and it sounds better.
Nice repair! In some occasions capasitance test could fool you (not you). Meter can in rare cases show higher capacitance, because slightly bad cap charges slower to it's value and meter shows higher capacitance value.
That's a cool little sleeper anp. I have a little old innocent Onkyo that is a bit like that.
21:10 "It takes 3 times as long to fix something when you've got a camera in your face...." I agree.......I film repairs on CZcams also, but when I'm backed up, I cut back on the filming.
Nailed my question on muddy sound. Ill have to check that path in my SR-904. Full crank on the treble using some big JBL floorstanders and some AR monitors even on CD's.
Great video and well explained 👏👏
Sansewage
Haha, thats a new name for me
We called them that for years at the shop i worked at. That and sansuzi
@@12voltvids Sansui was a pretty good brand then it really went downhill.
@@will89687
Everything went down hill. Walmart is the reason. They demanded cheaper goods and that is what we got.
that was definitely sold at the same time as my garbage A-1100. same STK voltage amp and same power rating but smaller output transistors. TO-3P at almost 70V rails and ive scoped it at over 120W into 8 ohm with 1 channel driven! hot hot hot!! sounds like shite and has horrible damping factor. i have the entire stack and as much as i want to like it everytime i pull it out it doesnt stay out for a day lol
I have a 1980 t-80 sansui am/fm stereo tuner that has the analog tuning dial,,,along with a digital tuning display too. It works really well,,,after replacing dial light and realigning the built-in ferrite core antenna coil to get am band working again as it should too.
These T80 SANSUI is in this low cost serie, a kind of technical compromise with only a digital frequency counter on the IF side of a classical low end analog tuner. This digital divider circuitry is a fragile nightmare on a special board, modern technology could easily replace on a single IC. Some models are also known for temperature drift, wich means aging transistors and caps and difficult alignments. You can't expect top receiving performances with such a model (nor the simpler T60), but I must admit it's surprisingly sounding good. However, you can easily locate early 90's digital tuner from Yamaha or Denon that will globally work finer than a T80 for a ridiculous budgets, specially in countries where DAB+ is replacing FM band. And if you still want a Sansui Tuner, the former TU417 is a reasonable high quality analog tuner, easy to align and eventually modify, with plenty of space and documentations. And if you're an absolute audiophile or FM quality control tech, TU-X1 is probably one of the best tuner available with a budget around 1.000 /1.500$!
@@alexispieltin9379 Thanks for giving me a few sansui stereo tuner models which I,ll look at soon online.
In regards to a total recap..... I think that applies more to 40's through 60's gear where the electrolytics are totally shot. I change paper and Electrolytic on those.
That's right. Old paper caps and the black beauties need to go on the old tube gear. Capacitors from the late 60s and into the 70s were fantastic. Most used PCB oil in them and they lasted forever. Then they had to get the PCBs out and there were bad ones made in 90s and into 2000s.
You had me at Sansewage this looks like it's made at the end of Sansui.
DEpressing stuff. In the end they tried to appeal to the premiun market again, but they lost it. After the Supercompo series Sansui fate was seal. They tried to follow Akai and many other on the cheap side and failed miserably. On the other hand, the market for thing like the 717, AU9000, G9000, 22000 or even the 33000 started to get smaller and smaller because masse consumer could only afford Supercompo style of cheap separetes with cardboard bottom. Kinda of Technics 90s garbage racks. But, Technics had superior industrial desgin on their rubbish so from the far, it looke like an expensive gear, and from the inside like a vomit.
Your elevator music definitely sounds better on the other amplifier
I've never heard this on an elevator.
I've got the same system, had the whole system but just have the preamp and amp now, pitched the rest of it through the years. It's always worked, it's powerful but just kind of blaa sounding even through an eq part of that could be the chiepie jbl Northridge nd310's I'm running as the tweeters are blaa on those speakers as well. Heard this amp is from the "kabuki" era of sansui, It's been my go back to system through the years after various av receivers I've had have come and gone and weren't worth fixing.
Sansewqge
Hello brother I like your video Thank you
Thank you for explaining and showing the diagrams -- this help educate me. Trying to learn how to play with repairing amplifiers/electronics as a hobby. Cheers! (Got a great laugh out of smells like cat piss... :). )
Maybe the poorer sound was simply due to a bad circuit design. How do I very quickly check TO92 BJTs in circuit? I have built cheap Chinese radio kits. I have soldered in a component, realized it was the wrong component, desoldered it out and resoldered in the correct component. However, I lift the copper foil pattern and destroy the PCB. My iron is at 450, and I hold the iron 2 to 3 seconds on the pad. What am I doing wrong?
Frank
450'c? Way too hot. If that is 450'f then too cold to melt solder. I use around 700'f.
@@12voltvids So that is lifting the pads? Thanks.
I think the cat just wanted to clean the contacts! :-P
Cat is an audiophile nerd, wanted to get rid of that crap!
mine has one chanel with no sound,... is been in storage for 23 years,... first try to re solder i gese...
I have my Denon RCD-M40 CD receiver micro component system showing Power circuit error for the last couple of days! There was some voltage fluctuations in the line and it's fixed but still the error in Denon. Tried to reset the error by pressing source and next button while inserting the power plug, then the play button as in the service manual but the error don't go away! I have this standby LED blinking red straight after the power supply. Any ideas?
Don't know if you have noticed but the latest videos have some jerky motion when something moves fast. Like reverse field order in interlaced video. Could it be a camera problem?
Wow. Can actually hear the difference via youtube and Samsung 7 phone! Sansui is muddy sounding!
Sure is.
What if you did change cap value wouldn't sound better
When you changed those 2 caps , you might have added good quality caps, those units didn't come with great quality to start with........
How is that newer power supply treating you ???
It works great.
the is sound not good both amplifier or maybe microphones is not good , no high frequency ?
A question about recapping. When you have a late 70s component, and when it gets powered it smells strongly of what i believe is capacitor oil or something like that. Does it need all capacitors replaced then? , or just the big ones and the ones in the audio path?. I have inspected the board and there seems to be no leak from any cap.
The amp and the cassette deck that have this problem, (Technics both), have good sound, not sure if it could be better after recap, but I suspect yes. I assume capacitors were of better quality in the 70s than after, but the smell is quite overpowering and it makes me a bit sick.
You're likely just smelling the odor of wherever it was stored or used for a long time.
Leaking caps don't really smell like anything until you're heating them with a soldering iron. Then you'll smell a metallic fishy odor that is very distinctive.
Some idiots clean their Hifi stuff with inadapted products like WD40. The smell of old bakelite boards with old dust and 40 + years deposits is everything but discrete, specially on heat sources. Even properly cleaned (isopropylic alcohol, vaccum cleaner, toothbrush an qtips...), a distinctive smell always remains. Leaking caps are generally of distinctive oily smell, some smell rotten fish. Beware of aging carbon resistors wich have drifted and may smell a lot before burning. Note that kitchen oily smells and smoke deposits are nearly impossible to eliminate. Nicotin deposits easily kill every electronic and optical equipment!
Good job once again, you saved another one from the bin, temporarily. And this Sansui series is still sounding awfull for me, these plastic sides brown face never ever went to the level of it's predecessors, but hey, they were sold at a portion of an AU series. Technically, the replacement of the input decoupling caps is certainly the first thing I would also have done first, and probably also the others electrolytics surrounding this STK, but questions about effective results with such an aging technology and STK availability as a main suspect are also leading many experienced tech to stop investigate further, not even trying so called audio caps for instance. Most of these hybrid amps include caps that are impossible to check and could possibly suffer from high temps and age. And I perfectly approve your conclusions about time and material to spend on this on this Sansewer. In French, I'd name it a Sansuite, meaning nothing further to do. And if someone sold this for 20 bucks, let say that was probably not unjustified, with a "sticker" syndrome meaning a lot about fiability. In the mid 80's, most Japanese manufacturers like Sansui, Technics, Sony, Pioneer, Akaï... were still producing fabulous products but also tons of those nasty entry level shits in the same time, and that was confusing as you could not easily sell a 1000$ amp justifying a better quality when you could buy a complete system for the same money, including loudspeakers. This problem went more acute when trend went to miniaturization, most of what was produced was nothing good, pros were considering loudspeakers sounding no better as shoe boxes. These sort of easy to market entry level garbage were a time bomb that killed many audio manufacturers in their reputation, and things got even worse when crisis hit Japan in the 90's. I remember the early tremors when "made in China" stickers first arrived on most of the machines previously made in Japan, even prestigious brands followed the downfall to hell. Survivors are now mostly owned by Chinese pension funds or capitals, and China is now also producing high end products.
Yup garbage. I have a technics suv9 in my studio that sounds fantastic. One of the better sounding amps made before technics went to the STK module amps. Variable bias class A very low distortion and plenty of power.
They are making very high quality products in China. Yaquin amplifier was rated number 2 tube amp just behind the Canadian made dynaco st70. I have one of those yaquin on my living room speakers. Sounds bloody awesome. Yaquin wind their own iron in house and they will stand up to anything on the market.
Yes, if the STK fails this one is toast, but it is FORBIDDEN to recycle it as is, that gigantic power transformer and the heatsinks can make a good base for a great DIY amplifier.
@@mrnmrn1Believe me, this crap and any parts are nowhere to be found in a serious HiFi collection: it's part of the most dispised and low cost SANSUI series. It's a 20$ ensemble, when amongst the best series from the early 70's, a model AU555A (2x25Watts) is estimated around 500$! Repairing this kind of amp is only interesting for the technical demonstration, with the final goal to use as a minimal temporary system. Power transformer is not that big, as this amp has limited dimensions enclosure (with plastic sides), and I doubt voltages and currents will fit any class D amp as is. Heatsinks are also absolute crap, a low cost joke with a noise making fan, certainly not what any high power real HiFi amp deserves. Main filtering caps are also probably near end of life... I don't believe more than 30 W class AB kit could eventually fit in with a new radiator set! The reference Pioneer receiver is far more interesting, and better sounding as is. Try a mid range underestimated Denon or Yamaha for less than 150 bucks, but don't waste any time nor money in a project like that!
@@alexispieltin9379 I agree, this amp is mostly junk, BUT. The rear says 540VA power consumption, the datasheet says 9.6kg. So it has to be a half decent transformer. Class AB is fine to me, so the transformer would fit, although I like class D amps, but I have no problems with a good class AB either. I don't have any problems with the heatsinks either. The fan turns on only under high load, when its noise doesn't matter a lot.
I was not talking about to build a high-end amp with these parts, just a fun DIY 'party amp'. (Although for a party amp Class-D would be better, fair enough). The majority of the cost is the power transformer and the heatsinks in a solid state DIY amp, so if someone already has, or can buy for peanuts this junk Sansewage with a dead unobtainium STK, better to build something out of it than to send it to recycling.
I would have put that amp in the shower for a while and then dry it out thoroughly and then worked on it.
These input caps 2.2/50 you could have changed to film caps like WIMA. Their ESR is only about 0.05 Ohm. And you really should set the bias properly.
Bias won't change on DC amplifiers unless a semi or resistor has been changed. It's only my son's amp and who knows when he is going to use it. He just has his big cans stuck to his head all day.
@@12voltvids this amp has a good sound but not with all speakers. Maybe your son will like it someday.
I had a Sansui AU-919, if you know that amp you could understand why I am mad at myself for getting rid of it.
Hi I got sansui S-X1130 the whole panel lights up cd aux phono together and can’t seem to select any of them individualy was told by the repair shop it’s an ic number TC9152AP but they can’t get hold of one r they right about the findings or can u please help
READ MORE
The caps have a Big vloss I have this problem good snr and valor but a 4%Vloss so atenuadet sound.
Cooling fan temperature controlled? did not see it running when you turned it on....
Generally they do not run at low power levels as they are noisy. So they come on at higher power or if temperature of heat sink rises over certain temperature.
urine is VERY hard to get out of phenolic circuit boards.
Great job today
Cool..
Fantastic!!
You daft bugger, i had to laugh at san-sewage :-D
If fresh caps didnt fix it, i would bodge a couple of 1nF caps across the input resistors to add some top lift.
With the crappy RCA cables you're using, you won't be able to detect much improvement, even if you replace the entire amp with an audiophile grade one... I don't believe in fancy snake oil cables, but Amazon basics is the bare minimum...
Frequency response test pre / post changes in order here?
Pre 100Hz to 15Khz 10% THD max power. After: SAME.
No, in response to the observation of "dull" high frequencies, check frequency response by checking amplitude of the output when sweeping the input with a sine wave 20 - 20kHz. Do this before and after changing the input cap. Check for "higher" frequency roll off in dB.
That dull sound has the high end missing. Hmmm..
Well it did.
Didn't these horrid STK-modules have external bootstrap circuitry? In any case, Sanyo doesn't produce them anymore.
The world stil makes sense ;)
Yes I am aware that they are obsolete. I have a nice Sony amp that is dead because of a bad one.
Whats the track playing around 26mins? czcams.com/video/mY4eZ8hmp-I/video.html?
Why would a 16 or 20 year old not want to drive?
I have no idea. I have one that couldn't wait to drive (and move out) and the other has no interest in either.
Here is some info about these modules: www.audiolabga.com/pdf/STK3152III.pdf
and www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/268473-fake-stk3152-stk3102.html with a possible schematic for the module. Wonder if it is possible to remake a new one out of discrete components.
me and a group on audiokarma make a discreet replacement for that STK3102 series from TO-126 parts. Never got to testing it tho as my issue was the original output transistor was physically broke
0:01 Sansewage😆
"San-sewage" ..ha!
This thing is an insult to Sansui's name. ...
Kind of, but at least it has a huge power transformer and proper cooling.
San-sewage, lol