UJK Technology Hinge Jig With Clamp Plate
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 07. 2016
- This is a single aperture hinge jig suitable for all doors.
It is a lightweight jig, easy to use with minimal set up time. Once set for the size of hinge, cutting the recess on the door frame requires no further adjustment.
This jig gives quick and accurate results. It is suitable for hinges from 50mm(2") to 127mm(5") long and with leaf widths between 6.5mm(1/4") and 35mm(1.3/8").
The body has engraved markings for easy measurement and setting.
The hinge jig is made of 12mm thick High Pressure Laminate, dimensionally stable and with a lifetime guarantee never to warp; additional parts are aluminium.
The end datum stop controls the 3mm gap between the top of the door and frame.
The jig comes with the clamping plate accessory and easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions. Additional equipment required: 1/2" router, 12mm straight cutter, 16mm guide bush, screwdriver, two bradawls or two clamps.
To purchase: www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-techno... - Jak na to + styl
Sold my trend jig years ago. All jigs are useless. Far easier to just mark top gap, top of top middle and bottom hinge on a straight doorstop. Transfer to door and lining, score around the hinge with a Stanley and freehand with a 1/4 inche router. Quick and easy
I have one of these jigs. I have been a carpenter for thirty odd years and can confirm it is quick to set up,( without all this explaining on the video), and is worth the money. Having said that I used to be able to hang 7 doors in 56 minutes on price work many years ago by hand,( totally true). That was minimum planing and the frames were always pretty good,( new frames). Anyhow, the jig does the job and makes me money so worth it.
lol
Hi,
Are you planning on releasing a part 2 to this video showing how the jig is used on the door frame ?
Please explain something ……point 0 slows for the 4mm cutter to bush difference …yep I get that…however I put the jig to the line at the point where You adjusted the hinge size….this to me means the will set 2mm off your line ???
6 inches up from the bottom? nope! 6 inches down, 8 or 9 inches up. never seen a chippy do a bottom hinge 6 inches from bottom of door.
I’ve never done 6” up from the bottom of the door, old school is 9” from the bottom, 7” from the top,
PLEASE post Video of routing the door JAMB!!!!!
how to used in frame please.
Good jig for replacing doors to existing hinge mortices that are not standard spacings.majour problems are related door frames where the jig won't site and the other is the annoying habbit that the aluminium disk guides sieze onto the m5 bolts.the Phillips head then rounds out.if you use pliers to try and remove the bolts the disk is then damaged.
Those little aluminium discs are 30 quid each to replace!
There should only be 2 threaded out of the four to stop this happening!
a 12mm cutter in a world knee deep in 12.7mm cutters
Until you show me it routing a door jamb I am NOT Sold on thus product...
I can see the advantage if you are going to router for hinges all day long but other than that it is not quick, and you still have to square out the corners.
After 50 years of working on the tools I think its for Gadget collectors. Trend brought out one many years ago that covered all hinges per door and that was pretty expensive - how much is yours ?
We're do I find the second video
i have not found one video showing these sorts of jigs being used on existing door frames with rebates why ?
Hi Chris, we sell this item to manufacture hinge rebates from 50mm(2") to 127mm(5") long and with leaf widths between 6.5mm(1/4") and 35mm(1.3/8").
For £70 a palm router can be bought. Simply mark out the hinge set the depth as you would with any router take out the bulk of the material with router leaving the line. Then square off like in this video.
By the time you have set the jig up you could of been done already.
yes but with the jig you can't accidentally go over your markings, also without the jig you would be having to mark out the hinge each time instead of just a line and a cross in which side to go with the jig. Much quicker with multiple doors. I would like to see how quick you could do a door vs someone using the jig once they got set up and going.
how about the door frame??
This hinge jig is the best on the market, so all the muppets that contest it jog on!!! Oh and it does work on the frame Tried and tested.
I think you should wait until Milwaukee comes out with one. But in the meanwhile perhaps you'll join me for a cup of tea
Bought one today ready to hang 10 oak doors
Neil Whiting what’s like any good
Once set up it would be quick and easy on multiple doors, it could only be used on a door lining not a frame to sink hinges unless you cut freehand with a laminate trimmer !
Interesting, where you are fitting hinges on a new door and carcass set up but your guide would be out where you are merely replacing a door with the hinge holes in the carcass. In this case you’d have to adjust the jig moving it 2 MM to the left of the guideline…..otherwise ooooopppps.
The only thing is not solved here is how to deal with the 2mm offset (gap) on each side of the jig when marking the places on the door frame!
Hello,
I have spoke to Jason regarding your question, Please see below his response.To be able to use this for left and right side hanging doors I assembled this using the four aluminum disc, the two countersunk discs on the top face (UJK label) and the the other two which are threaded on the underside, the hinge depth is set off of these as done in the manual working off the recess area either end (no2 on instruction sheet) both ends of the jig need setting up in the same way, measuring off the hinge, and the tighten the screws locking the Aluminum disc in place, The discs are the same size diameter and so allow the jig to be set up using either side of the jig,The hinge length and depth are set as of manual .
To hold on the door and frame will require either a bradawl , screws or pins, there are 3 holes on either end set in from the aluminum disc to fix through, these holes also show which way the jig has to sit on the work as the 3 holes have to be over the workpiece inline with where the hinge recess is being cut, The measurement scale that is used to set the hinge length is away from the workpiece, and the narrow unmarked edge of the cut out is over the door or frame.
Setting up using the 4 disc allows the jig to be turned over , so the underside of the jig is facing up when cutting the hinge recesses into the right hand side of a door and Left hand side of a frame ,the face side of the jig will be up to cut the hinges on the left hand side of a door and the recesses in the frame on the right hand side.
Using the 4 disc allows the jig to be set up once to do both sides (frame and door) if they use the clamping device ( board) then this will need to be taken off each time and swapped over to the face or underside of the jig.
The length stop on the end of the jig can also be used using the 4 discs, it will not work with the clamping board inplace as it limits its position when used in the frame.
Kind Regards
Jack
Specialist Sales AdvisorAxminster Tools
Not the best video - poor instruction, but I get the jist of it by the end and overall it is versatile and can be used for all sizes of hinge. I'd always suggest going for the round corner hinges to save squaring them off. The video didn't explain how NOT to make the cut-out on the wrong sde of the door! When set up it is just a repeat process for all doors with the same hinges. I'd be interested in some explanation as to how many hinges are needed and what is the accepted positioning of them - is there a convention or standard distance from the top/bottom of the door. I agree that a video for the door frame would be good or can the hinge not just be fitted flat into the frame if the correct depth is cut in the door? The RYOBI jig is poor as is the TREND jig - so I don't see how you guys here could recommend those two - just look at their poor quality videos!
So you don’t mention the little tab on the end of the jig that is used to distance the top hinge from the top of the door and then door frame. You basically hook it over the top of the door, and then when you place it in the door frame, you twist it flat and butt it up against the door liner. This gets your top hinge positioned correctly. If the hinge is on the opposite side of the door, you can flip the jig onto its back. You’ll also notice the hinge jig is 6” from the top of the door, and 9” from the bottom. This video misses out so much that this jig offerers. It’s fantastic we’ll worth the money.
No good for me I’ve not got one of them green and black things only a triton
OK, now demonstrate how this jig works with linings with door stops on or rebated linings & frames with architraves ???
Oh wait!!! = FAIL
Too slow, you need a jig where you cut out all three hinges on a door with one setting. I make my own jigs from mdf , one for 6' 8" doors and one for 6' 6" doors, the same jigs can be used for the frames using a specer at the top for clearance. No fumbling , no measuring, job goes quick
Ryobi one is much simpler and practical...
Waste of time, buy the trend hinge jig. Fell asleep watching this crap.
Pav singh There are plenty of times when the Trend hinge jigs don't do whats needed or would be loads more hassle.
When matching positions of hinges on existing frames on new doors where the positions vary.
When doing large office doors 2.5m to 3m plus high with radius cornered hinges, making doing them by hand not really a viable option.
I own a trend hinge jig also but there situations where using this UJK jig is much easier & faster & can do what the Trend jigs cannot.
waste of time