It really boils down to what application you're using the batteries for. Wireless keyboards from Logitech will last a couple of years off Alkalines, so it wouldn't really make sense to throw rechargeable into those peripherals (and TV remotes). But devices like radios, and CD players, etc that have fast discharge cycles makes more sence to use rechargeable batteries.
Depend from the Ni-Mh Technology. You can divide them by "long lasting" and "high capacity". - Long lasting battery (like Amazon Ni-MH Basic) can keep around 80% of their initial charge after 2 years and can be charged more than 1000 times. Energy capacity is very good, around 2000mAH for a typical AA battery. So are good for remotes, controllers, clocks, mouses.... - High capacity battery (like Amazon Ni-Mh High capacity) normally can keep around 60% of their initial charge after a year (many "made in china" Ni-Mh can't even keep 50% after 6 moths) and can be charged around 500 times. Energy capacity is typically 20% more than "long lasting battery", like 2400mAh for a typical AA battery. In my opinion I buy only "Long lasting" because I don't need that "20% more energy capacity" that is totally wasted in 90% of the usage. In fact devices like clocks, remotes, mouses, sensors....need really low power and normally an "high capacity" battery will self discharge ater a year o soon, so the energy wasted is huge compared to the energy effectively used by the device. You will end by charging your remote or clock battery every year due to the battery self discharging. (In my home clocks and remotes last years using "long lasting" Ni-Mh). Finally I prefer to have ready to use battery that in case of emergency after 2 years are still charged at 80%. Example emergency appliaces like a fleshlight. With "long lasting" you will have your flesh light ready to use quite always in case of blackout. When using "high capacity" battery you have to compulsively recharge battery every 6 months and many people that do not know this difference buy only "high capacity" because in their brain they think more capacity = more lasting and the result is "rechargeable battery are shit and not last compared with disposal battery". For this reason still today majority of the people still not using Ni-Mh battery. But the truth is that Ni-Mh battery contain way more energy than disposal Alkaline battery and Ni-Mh battery will not leak any acid damaging your devices. There is only one place where High capacity battery are good and is where the device need really high energy and can discharge the battery in some months or hours, like an RC car, toys, toothbrush and all these device that normally have some electric motor inside. Maybe a powerfull fleshlight but only if you need to use It daily. If you add the fact that "High capacity" battery last half of the "long lasting" (because can be charged 500 times instead of 1000 times) and that they cost around 25% more than the "long lasting" for less than 20% of capacity more.....I never buy "high capacity" battery. "Long lasting" for all the life. You charge them up and leave them ready in the drawer, no worries for a few years
The low-self-discharge ~2000 mah ones are also WAY more durable over the long term. Higher capacity 2500 mah ones rarely last much longer than about 5 years or so in my experience (some might get lucky, but it's hit or miss). Low-self-discharge ones can last virtually forever. In fact, I still have some 1600mah ones from over 20 years ago (back when the technology was way more primitive) and they still have about 1300mah of their capacity left after over 20 years! My higher capacity ones from back then are useless paperweights. Technology has improved since then (Low self discharge batteries didn't even exist back then), but most of the advancements for long-term durability have been on the lower capacity batteries in general, which have always been more durable and remain so. Even modern high-capacity 2500mah batteries can't rival the lower capacity ones in terms of general longevity.
@@photoniccannon2117 Agree! 🙋 Buy are you sure there was nimh? I have also some big D cells rarely used bought for an old fleshlight 25 years ago and still working, but they are nicd not nimh. Anyway I do not like high capacity nimh, as you told, they are not durable, more expensive and the capacity difference is not really higher to make "the difference".
@@ThejackAJV Yea they were NiMH. I don’t have any D cells, all of mine are AAs and AAAs. (Hard to find good D rechargeables without ordering them, the ones in the store have a really low capacity compared to what they should be for some reason.)
Preaching to the choir ;) For those of us techies with kids, they're especially useful for all those toys that burn through batteries when they're left on over night!
A couple of things some people have missed. Eneloops hold 70% of their charge after 10 years. So yes, they are like alkalines, though still lower voltage so some devices may not work properly with them most modern devices though run with Eneloops fine. Another thing it would take 100's of charges in a month before you notice a change in your electric bill but if you are that concerned over it, get a solar panel setup like what Goal Zero offers. Even with all the modern chargers from Maha and La Crosse it doesn't phase my electric bill, even when i'm running refresh cycles on the batteries you'll find more electrical usage from your PC being on standby.
Right, we have over 200 eneloop batteries in our house. Not only do they work well, they also don't leak potentially destroying the device in which they are installed. I always mark each battery with the date I bought it. We've not had a single failure, even on eneloops that are several years old and repeatedly used. eneloop batteries are preferred by photographers in their speedlights. Rechargeables are also beneficial in other ways. Kids can leave toys on and drain batteries. Toss out those alkaline but simply recharge the eneloops. If i were to think a flashlight is getting a little dim and I open it to discover disposables I want to get the maximum use out of them before they go in the trash (or recycle). So I keep them in the flashlight and put up with a dimming light. But if the flashlight has rechargables I simply drop in a fresh set and charge the others.
thanks for posting! I DETEST batteries! I cringe every time they run out...and I have 2 terrible choices: go through the inconvenience (putting batteries in a box, and sometimes paying recycling centers to take them) or throwing them in the trash (which I almost never do)....rechargeable seems like the way to go.... why don't more people do it? I would love to hear other people's thoughts on that... BTW, my kids really loved your rocket rainbow head at the end of the video LOL.
The delay on panel is negligible though - there is 3 ms difference between TN and IPS, while actual delay between input (from mouse/keyboard) and actual draw on screen is usually around 50-80ms, and in some cases as high as 100ms.
linus is literally here to answer all my questions. i somehow just knew that linus was going to be the one to pop up for my stupid question of are rechargeable batteries worth it
Rechargeable is not always the best choice. You need to take into account that Nickel based batteries does have a much higher self discharge rate and only give out 1.2V as compared to Alkaline and Lithium giving out 1.5V. You would want Non-rechargeables on low-drain applications like clocks and remotes. Rechargeables for everything else.
+DeuteriumCore To add to this, Disposables actually decline in maximum capacity when delivering a high amount of amperage vs NIMH based cells, and voltage sag is particularly horrendous at high loads. One particular example would be high end LED flashlights which can easily draw 2+ AMPs. Alkalines begin choking at the 30 minute mark as the light slowly dims, while good quality NIMH cells can keep the thing going for well over an hour at full steam until the battery is practically dead.
@DeuteriumCore, about the voltage, it's so annoying when manufacturers creates a device to use 4 AA batteries then set the voltage to "less than 5v turn off". So 4 1.5V becomes 6V, while 4 1.2V only gives 4.8V, the device won't even start with fully charged batteries! I've been curious if it would be possible to modify said devices to add an additional 1.2V battery on the side of the device or something (in series for 6 volt), not sure what negative consequences that would give though.
1 alkaline cannot be 1.5V from full to empty. Full cell is 1.6V unloaded and 1.5V loaded. Half-charged is 1.4V unloaded and 1.2 loaded. Alkaline 10% soc is 1.25V unloaded and 1V loaded voltage. To utilize alkalines fully appliance must run them down to 1V per cell. This perfectly match Ni-mh discharge curve and most of AA and AAA powered appliances accept Ni-Mh (and also Ni-Cd)
TheDyingFox I hate BS like over voltage cut off which could be mitigated electronically.. For instance I have a Brady BMP 21 labeler I use for work won't work on rechargeables because they are under voltage and I can't use lithium AA primaries because at peak they are over voltage for what it will except and it runs on six AA's. So I have to A carry around a wall wart which is not an option or B use crappy Alc batteries which it eats through in a day. Six batteries a day is ridiculous so i now charge for batteries at work along with the work if they want everything labeled.
+Volodumur Kalunyak Thanks for clearing that up, I've never had a chance to try measurements during load, but it makes absolute sense (So I just have to remember that the voltage is during load). That explains why some devices just refuses to start. Would it be possible to add an additional battery "on the outside to the connection" to reach required voltage? (It's such a drag to use 4 Alkaline every 2 hours). I'm currently not so much for playing/testing stuff with electronics because it could become a fire hazard xD
having a additional 2-5watts power consumption to charge 4 batteries is not that bad entirely, a batter supposedly charge about 7-8hours so yeah, around 40watts or less of power in 8 hour charge is not that bad. Plus you help the environment big time.
Same type, yes. I have Energizer and Rayovac rechargeable batteries, both are NiMH and charge just fine on either/or charger. Only issue I've seen is the Energizer charger doesn't tell me when the Rayovac batteries are done charging, but over night is more than enough :)
I, too, use Eneloop batteries in all my electronics. The charger doesn't bother me, and I have enough batteries to have spares ready so that I don't have to wait for a fresh charge to finish. The batteries work as advertised. I've been using the white batteries for at least 5 years. I have some of the newer blue ones, too. It's nice not buying lots of alkaline batteries.
linus, you should mention that eneloops are not just ANY rechar. batteries. they are the hybrid ones called LSD (low-self-discharge). and some ppl still don't know they exist, you should do a separate video about standard rechargeable batteries and those new hybrid ones LSD. eneloops are not the only one lsd there are many companies that make them now
techquickie suggestions - surge protectors, uninterpretable power supplies, software drivers, case fan vs radiator fan, 3d monitors vs 3d tvs, desktop wireless adapters and DPI mouse settings (probably a preference thing) and PC audio connectors(usb vs hdmi etc.)
Maybe this can help you: Low budget=TN/VA panel, If you're a fps gamer playing games like CS, BF, COD etc, get a 120hz panel. If you want more vibrant colors, Get an IPS display :) I'm playing mostly rpg and strategy games so i'm saving up for an IPS display.
Ignoring the tremble of my legs at the thought of disagreeing with Linus, NMH batteries only run at 1.2V. This means it's not always possible to use them in the place of Alkaline (and standard 1.5v). They also degrade throughout discharge (voltage lowers) and throughout their life. Don't know why we don't now use LiFePO4 with some basic circuitry. With space for electronics they would only have about the same capacity as NMH (but potentially higher), but they hold their voltage very consistently throughout discharge and can have over 10,000 cycles and a longer shelf life. Commercial LiFePO4 (for EVs ect) is under $100/kWh in China already, which should mean the material and manufacture costs of a 2000mAh battery well under$1USD before electronics (which would also be far under $1). Of course, that's assuming scaled production. LiFePO4 are also very safe, non-toxic and Cobalt free. For those in the know, Lithium AA/AAAs do actually exist, but you can only buy online, mostly from China and they're still crazy expensive. Would say there is definitely a high chance of market manipulation here.
I think it really depends on what you are using the batteries for. In a camera or any devices that sucks out quickly the battery energy, it is worth it. However, for an alarm clock for example (simple one) it is better to have a disposable one. Both efficiency and ecologically thinking are needed.
Theoretically, OLED can increase refresh rates exponentially. 4K (3840x2160) OLED is my "dream." :D The only thing is, OLED is hard to produce, so it's expensive. Brightness levels aren't that high, and it's blue pixel life is shorter than the other colors.
do a quickie on how to get your computer up and running after a hard drive/boot drive upgrade, with scenario's of a different os installed, different raid ssd-hhd combination variances of re-installation or reconfigering if any needed?. shortcuts ect
Yes the cost might be less when you consider usage and how many charges you get out of them, but what about the cost of the electricity to charge them?
don't worry about thinking you stole the shamwow slogan. your points made in just this video were 99% better! :) I'm buying a unversal kit and say bye bye desposable
ntfs is Windows' default file system. Only windows OS's can read/write to drives with this formatting, other systems can only read. fat & fat32 are universal file systems for small drives (flash and SD cards), and they have a limit (I think fat32 is 4gb per file). exFat is also a new file system by windows which macs can read/write to (linux too, but needs special drivers). exFat supports currently impossible sizes of drives and files, measured in exbibytes.
went w/re-chargable AA n mouse and it has a built n charger and use the AA's n clocks and remotes, etc. letting my mouse do all the charging just swap em out as the others discharge putting those back n the mouse n a round robin charge thing. heck u can get el cheapos from asia and never run out of charged ones sure beats buying 10 pack regular batts once or twice a yr keepin that landfill not so filled.
Sam Moss I have a dedicated charger but since all my AA-powered gear use two AA's so I just rotate the NiMH LSD rechargeable AA's among my gears. One set is always sitting in the charger and once something runs out of battery the always-ready set is put into the gear and the depleted batteries are recharged. Not bought a single set of batteries since then.
I have a charger next to my desk 24/7 and use rechargeables where I can, especially in my gaming mouse which goes through one every 2 days. Problem is they're all 1.2V, and many electronics need 1.5V, especially flashlights, for which I bought a pack of cheap Duracell AAAs
They need Power(W) Rechargeable batteries have a lower voltage(1.2V compared to 1.5V) But can output more current. In my digital camera alkalines discharged to 1.45V, rechargeable to 1.23V
Switchted to Sanyo Eneloops for our game system wireless remotes. The kids could kill an energizer in one sitting easy, and they took way too long to recharge. I bought those bad boys and a charger to power them up properly. (La Crosse Technology BC-700). That's the only thing you forgot to mention Linus, they are not all created equal...
Hay linus if for any reason you saw my comment please make a follow up video about these rechargeable batteries because people need to know that they have to start to use these batteries and why in some devices you shouldn't buy nickel metal hydride batteries and buy lithium batteries that give out 1.5 volts
My personal experience is that for my Apple Magic Mouse (which is a Bluetooth mouse with some advanced features at its heart) and high-power-draw gear like wireless microphones rechargeable batteries can be very useful. My Magic Mouse used two pairs of GP Recyko+ LSD NiMH, one in the devices and another holding full charge as backup set. I have also made retrofit kits for my wireless microphones to use 18650 Li-ion batteries.
I'll play the devils advocate here. 1. You also have to buy a charger 2. A single AA battery is not 1 dollar 3. Rechargable batteries have less capacity than Alkaline or Lithium cells. 4. for non-rechargable, you could just pop another battery in and be ready to go instantly instead of waiting for it to charge for several hours 5. Rechargable batteries are 1.2v while 1.5v which may cause problems in voltage sensitive applications
They were probably recommending a 1000w power supply because the power output of all the components was around 600w. And that is when the 1000w PSU is the most efficient. If that same person bought a 600w power supply the efficiency would have been MUCH worse.
i have to say that i do enjoy my energizer's and my 15 min recharge on my AA or AAA, still using the batteries after a year's worth of recharging on my wireless headset
Recharging a typical AA battery uses about 0.02 kilowatt hours of electricity, at an average of 10 cents per kilowatt hour, that comes out to 0.2(two tenths) cents per charge. So still immensely cheaper than buying disposables.
I love the eneloop batteries...been working good now for two years at least. In my digital camera and my wireless mouse and my scientific calculator...whew. I have saved countless dollars since I bought the rechargeable.
There's a North Korean company selling 2560x1400 100hz IPS monitors, I have no idea how the quality of the monitor is but ppl seem to be happy with them, The thing is they come with no garanties what so ever. The good thing is they cost like 350 bucks :) But the dream is 4k, IPS 120hz monitor :)
Maybe one about GPU naming could be usefull. As some people keep comparing stuff like 580 vs 7950 still, not knowing that the 580 is old generation. I know it's easy for most but it might help some :)
i dont use rechargables only thing that isnt got a built in battery i own is my keyboard wich lasts 18 months on a pair of energizers what am i going to do ith the other two batteries while these are draining loose them or let them trickle charge for a year and a half and find that ive killed them by the time i need them not worth the hassle
+Fennec Fox (FennecTECH) I've always preferred wired keyboard and mice myself, and always advocate rechargeable batteries for whenever anyone needs them. I have a few things with disposable batteries (specifically my steam controller and the motherboard in my computer) but only for one reason: they were included and have yet to die.
indeed many places (like a handheld gaming system (gba and stuff) rechargables is definitly better but when my televisioin remote lasts less time than my keyboard i have to say they would self drain faster than i can use them and nobody likes replacing batteries
There are many places where rechargeables don't put out the voltage or current requirements of full alkalines - but 99% of the time they'll do in a pinch! Long live the rechargeable!
the CMOS battery simply lets the motherboard run while the computer is unplugged. if you remove it the next time you turn your computer on any changes you made in the Bios will be removed, along with the windows clock.
That is the problem people look at the at cost now vs the total future cost. This goes for everything including batteries. If you shop around you can get 4 AA NiMh's and a charger for $10. If you wanna get really cheap you can use solar powered patio lights to recharge them.
Haha Def thought the ending was pretty awesome! But totally agree. I try and use rechargeables whenever I can, especially for photography! And another good thing to get with rechargeable bats would be a good charger! Like the POWEREX MH-C9000 WizardOne, which I would love to get since you can charge and discharge them at different rates to make the bats last longer and even recondition them!! =]
Some devices do not like recharageable batteries to do power output 1.2v from rechargeable and normal alkaline are 1.5. So devices might be undervolted and cause damage
TN, available at faster response times and HZ, at the cost of colour accuracy and viewing angles IPS, better colour accuracy and viewing angles at the cost of slower refresh rates and response times so you decide. OLED ftw.
Well, one thing...What if you have several devices requiring a total of say...20 batteries? Then, you would need 20 rechargeables or $120 worth, or you could spend 20 bucks and get disposables
Rechargeble batteries are nice, they may cost more at first, but after like, 5 charges, you are already "saving" by not buying more batteries. I would need at least 16 rechargeable batteries to be perfectly fine.12 of them in things like remotes or game controller and 4 of them as spare, that are fully charged and can be used anytime I need to recharge the ones that are depleted. "would need", because I'm broke and can't afford to spend $100 on batteries. So I just reuse the same 4 batteries.
The part they do not talk about is "WILL the Rechargeable battery actually be charged and or Usable WHEN you NEED it to be. I Keep a Flashlight in my Car, always just encase I need it. I also use disposable batteries in it because - I would NEVER trust Rechargeable batteries to work when I need it. Be it a week after I put them in Sure OK they would probably still run the light & run it for a while. Month? Maybe? Three Months untouched My bet is the light will not even come on. But Disposable, I can use that same light maybe 3 or 4 times a week for 3 minutes or so at a time to find something and still I will bet it will start a year later or hell 2 years later even. I would however suggest Looking at the batteries at least once a month to make sure there is no corrosion. Best way to prevent corrosion? When you buy, check package for any rough handling or damage from being dropped, or thrown around. And never toss or throw you batteries around. With Gentle treatment, your Alkaline batteries will almost Never corrode. Personally I use Rechargeable, but only in thing I use Over and Over on a Daily bases. How often are YOU going to use up the battery? That is the purpose for Rechargeable batteries. Use them Charge them and Use them again. But if you are going to use them Charge them First & make sure more are charging encase you need them them to continue. Rechargeable batteries Suck in my opinion. Sometimes I really wonder if the hassle is saving me money or costing me more time.
Forgot to mention rechargeable batteries are only 1.2 volts instead of the standard 1.5 volts on a disposable (in a device that uses 4 batteries, that is the difference between 4.8v of power and 6v of power (a whole other rechargeable battery) It's not that the device won't work, it just won't work to its full potential.)
Rechargeable batteries are awesome IF you actually have stuff that requires them. In our household though, the only thing that I can think of that uses batteries are our remotes and fire alarms... Can't think of anything else...
in games you WILL see a difference. this is because the APU will use the system RAM as video ram. Although the difference probably isn't that big, you mind as well get ram as fast as possible.
You are forgetting one thing , you need to pay to recharge them. If you have the right charger , you do not need to wait 8 hours but yes they will degrade faster. And Alkaline batteries do not get disposed they get recycled they put new peices of metal in them and new acid. That being said, i would still buy rechargables and an solar panel instead
I havent bought an alkaline AA or AAA battery in almost 10 years. Have my collection of AA's: 4x2300mah energizers, 8x2000mah energizers, 4x2000mah eneloops, and some crappy 1850mah sony something or rathers. plus for AAA same deal, 2 energizers 2 eneloops. sure total cost of all those is probably around $100, which could have bought me 100 alkalines, which would have lasted less than a year, thus putting 1000 batteries in the landfill over the 10 year period. rechargeable batteries. BUY THEM
Actually, nominal voltage of alkaline is much less than 1.5V, only a brand-new unused one is 1.5V. Their discharge graphs looks like this: htt p ://q s. l c /p/us (remove spaces from the URL).
No. They are shit for cameras that use flash. They die almost instantly. Its not that they dont have enough mah, it is that the battery cannot handle that high of an instant power draw. Standard alkalines have the same issue, it is why I use high lithiums for my nikon.
Let's say a battery has 2500mAh and a constant voltage of 1.2 volts. That'd be 3 Wh of energy. Now, if you charge it up 1500 times and say that the power supply's efficiency is 50%, you end up with 9 kWh of energy or between 1 and 2 dollars. So that's about 7 dollars for the accumulator compared to 1000 dollars for batteries.
some thinhs are still okay with regular batteries like TV controller because usually from my experience the controller dies before but for more intensive work like game controllers or whatever it's better tho i bought some and they started to give inconsistent voltage after about 10 recharges so i think i got unlucky
in my experience (i know others have different experiences) rechargeable batteries cost 10x more, last 1/2 as long, and go bad after only a few recharges and these have been energizer brand, not some cheap shit
It really boils down to what application you're using the batteries for. Wireless keyboards from Logitech will last a couple of years off Alkalines, so it wouldn't really make sense to throw rechargeable into those peripherals (and TV remotes). But devices like radios, and CD players, etc that have fast discharge cycles makes more sence to use rechargeable batteries.
Ahh yes, watching the old Linus vids from back in the day.
Depend from the Ni-Mh Technology. You can divide them by "long lasting" and "high capacity".
- Long lasting battery (like Amazon Ni-MH Basic) can keep around 80% of their initial charge after 2 years and can be charged more than 1000 times. Energy capacity is very good, around 2000mAH for a typical AA battery. So are good for remotes, controllers, clocks, mouses....
- High capacity battery (like Amazon Ni-Mh High capacity) normally can keep around 60% of their initial charge after a year (many "made in china" Ni-Mh can't even keep 50% after 6 moths) and can be charged around 500 times. Energy capacity is typically 20% more than "long lasting battery", like 2400mAh for a typical AA battery.
In my opinion I buy only "Long lasting" because I don't need that "20% more energy capacity" that is totally wasted in 90% of the usage. In fact devices like clocks, remotes, mouses, sensors....need really low power and normally an "high capacity" battery will self discharge ater a year o soon, so the energy wasted is huge compared to the energy effectively used by the device. You will end by charging your remote or clock battery every year due to the battery self discharging. (In my home clocks and remotes last years using "long lasting" Ni-Mh).
Finally I prefer to have ready to use battery that in case of emergency after 2 years are still charged at 80%. Example emergency appliaces like a fleshlight. With "long lasting" you will have your flesh light ready to use quite always in case of blackout. When using "high capacity" battery you have to compulsively recharge battery every 6 months and many people that do not know this difference buy only "high capacity" because in their brain they think more capacity = more lasting and the result is "rechargeable battery are shit and not last compared with disposal battery". For this reason still today majority of the people still not using Ni-Mh battery. But the truth is that Ni-Mh battery contain way more energy than disposal Alkaline battery and Ni-Mh battery will not leak any acid damaging your devices.
There is only one place where High capacity battery are good and is where the device need really high energy and can discharge the battery in some months or hours, like an RC car, toys, toothbrush and all these device that normally have some electric motor inside. Maybe a powerfull fleshlight but only if you need to use It daily.
If you add the fact that "High capacity" battery last half of the "long lasting" (because can be charged 500 times instead of 1000 times) and that they cost around 25% more than the "long lasting" for less than 20% of capacity more.....I never buy "high capacity" battery. "Long lasting" for all the life. You charge them up and leave them ready in the drawer, no worries for a few years
Do you mean flashlight
did you meant to say flashlight?
The low-self-discharge ~2000 mah ones are also WAY more durable over the long term. Higher capacity 2500 mah ones rarely last much longer than about 5 years or so in my experience (some might get lucky, but it's hit or miss). Low-self-discharge ones can last virtually forever. In fact, I still have some 1600mah ones from over 20 years ago (back when the technology was way more primitive) and they still have about 1300mah of their capacity left after over 20 years! My higher capacity ones from back then are useless paperweights.
Technology has improved since then (Low self discharge batteries didn't even exist back then), but most of the advancements for long-term durability have been on the lower capacity batteries in general, which have always been more durable and remain so. Even modern high-capacity 2500mah batteries can't rival the lower capacity ones in terms of general longevity.
@@photoniccannon2117 Agree! 🙋 Buy are you sure there was nimh? I have also some big D cells rarely used bought for an old fleshlight 25 years ago and still working, but they are nicd not nimh. Anyway I do not like high capacity nimh, as you told, they are not durable, more expensive and the capacity difference is not really higher to make "the difference".
@@ThejackAJV Yea they were NiMH. I don’t have any D cells, all of mine are AAs and AAAs. (Hard to find good D rechargeables without ordering them, the ones in the store have a really low capacity compared to what they should be for some reason.)
Preaching to the choir ;) For those of us techies with kids, they're especially useful for all those toys that burn through batteries when they're left on over night!
A couple of things some people have missed. Eneloops hold 70% of their charge after 10 years. So yes, they are like alkalines, though still lower voltage so some devices may not work properly with them most modern devices though run with Eneloops fine. Another thing it would take 100's of charges in a month before you notice a change in your electric bill but if you are that concerned over it, get a solar panel setup like what Goal Zero offers. Even with all the modern chargers from Maha and La Crosse it doesn't phase my electric bill, even when i'm running refresh cycles on the batteries you'll find more electrical usage from your PC being on standby.
Right, we have over 200 eneloop batteries in our house. Not only do they work well, they also don't leak potentially destroying the device in which they are installed. I always mark each battery with the date I bought it. We've not had a single failure, even on eneloops that are several years old and repeatedly used.
eneloop batteries are preferred by photographers in their speedlights.
Rechargeables are also beneficial in other ways. Kids can leave toys on and drain batteries. Toss out those alkaline but simply recharge the eneloops.
If i were to think a flashlight is getting a little dim and I open it to discover disposables I want to get the maximum use out of them before they go in the trash (or recycle). So I keep them in the flashlight and put up with a dimming light. But if the flashlight has rechargables I simply drop in a fresh set and charge the others.
After 8 years this video still helpful
thanks for posting! I DETEST batteries! I cringe every time they run out...and I have 2 terrible choices: go through the inconvenience (putting batteries in a box, and sometimes paying recycling centers to take them) or throwing them in the trash (which I almost never do)....rechargeable seems like the way to go.... why don't more people do it? I would love to hear other people's thoughts on that... BTW, my kids really loved your rocket rainbow head at the end of the video LOL.
The delay on panel is negligible though - there is 3 ms difference between TN and IPS, while actual delay between input (from mouse/keyboard) and actual draw on screen is usually around 50-80ms, and in some cases as high as 100ms.
linus is literally here to answer all my questions. i somehow just knew that linus was going to be the one to pop up for my stupid question of are rechargeable batteries worth it
Rechargeable is not always the best choice. You need to take into account that Nickel based batteries does have a much higher self discharge rate and only give out 1.2V as compared to Alkaline and Lithium giving out 1.5V. You would want Non-rechargeables on low-drain applications like clocks and remotes. Rechargeables for everything else.
+DeuteriumCore To add to this, Disposables actually decline in maximum capacity when delivering a high amount of amperage vs NIMH based cells, and voltage sag is particularly horrendous at high loads. One particular example would be high end LED flashlights which can easily draw 2+ AMPs. Alkalines begin choking at the 30 minute mark as the light slowly dims, while good quality NIMH cells can keep the thing going for well over an hour at full steam until the battery is practically dead.
@DeuteriumCore, about the voltage, it's so annoying when manufacturers creates a device to use 4 AA batteries then set the voltage to "less than 5v turn off".
So 4 1.5V becomes 6V, while 4 1.2V only gives 4.8V, the device won't even start with fully charged batteries!
I've been curious if it would be possible to modify said devices to add an additional 1.2V battery on the side of the device or something (in series for 6 volt), not sure what negative consequences that would give though.
1 alkaline cannot be 1.5V from full to empty. Full cell is 1.6V unloaded and 1.5V loaded. Half-charged is 1.4V unloaded and 1.2 loaded. Alkaline 10% soc is 1.25V unloaded and 1V loaded voltage. To utilize alkalines fully appliance must run them down to 1V per cell. This perfectly match Ni-mh discharge curve and most of AA and AAA powered appliances accept Ni-Mh (and also Ni-Cd)
TheDyingFox I hate BS like over voltage cut off which could be mitigated electronically.. For instance I have a Brady BMP 21 labeler I use for work won't work on rechargeables because they are under voltage and I can't use lithium AA primaries because at peak they are over voltage for what it will except and it runs on six AA's. So I have to A carry around a wall wart which is not an option or B use crappy Alc batteries which it eats through in a day. Six batteries a day is ridiculous so i now charge for batteries at work along with the work if they want everything labeled.
+Volodumur Kalunyak Thanks for clearing that up, I've never had a chance to try measurements during load, but it makes absolute sense (So I just have to remember that the voltage is during load). That explains why some devices just refuses to start. Would it be possible to add an additional battery "on the outside to the connection" to reach required voltage? (It's such a drag to use 4 Alkaline every 2 hours).
I'm currently not so much for playing/testing stuff with electronics because it could become a fire hazard xD
having a additional 2-5watts power consumption to charge 4 batteries is not that bad entirely, a batter supposedly charge about 7-8hours so yeah, around 40watts or less of power in 8 hour charge is not that bad. Plus you help the environment big time.
Same type, yes. I have Energizer and Rayovac rechargeable batteries, both are NiMH and charge just fine on either/or charger. Only issue I've seen is the Energizer charger doesn't tell me when the Rayovac batteries are done charging, but over night is more than enough :)
Please include cost to charge the batteries. Thanks
I, too, use Eneloop batteries in all my electronics. The charger doesn't bother me, and I have enough batteries to have spares ready so that I don't have to wait for a fresh charge to finish. The batteries work as advertised. I've been using the white batteries for at least 5 years. I have some of the newer blue ones, too. It's nice not buying lots of alkaline batteries.
linus, you should mention that eneloops are not just ANY rechar. batteries. they are the hybrid ones called LSD (low-self-discharge). and some ppl still don't know they exist, you should do a separate video about standard rechargeable batteries and those new hybrid ones LSD. eneloops are not the only one lsd there are many companies that make them now
techquickie suggestions - surge protectors, uninterpretable power supplies, software drivers, case fan vs radiator fan, 3d monitors vs 3d tvs, desktop wireless adapters and DPI mouse settings (probably a preference thing) and PC audio connectors(usb vs hdmi etc.)
You didn’t calculate the cost of charging the rechargeable batteries with AC.
Maybe this can help you: Low budget=TN/VA panel, If you're a fps gamer playing games like CS, BF, COD etc, get a 120hz panel. If you want more vibrant colors, Get an IPS display :) I'm playing mostly rpg and strategy games so i'm saving up for an IPS display.
It's A Night of Dizzy Spells by Eric Skiff. I sped it up quite a bit to fit the look.
Ignoring the tremble of my legs at the thought of disagreeing with Linus, NMH batteries only run at 1.2V. This means it's not always possible to use them in the place of Alkaline (and standard 1.5v).
They also degrade throughout discharge (voltage lowers) and throughout their life.
Don't know why we don't now use LiFePO4 with some basic circuitry. With space for electronics they would only have about the same capacity as NMH (but potentially higher), but they hold their voltage very consistently throughout discharge and can have over 10,000 cycles and a longer shelf life.
Commercial LiFePO4 (for EVs ect) is under $100/kWh in China already, which should mean the material and manufacture costs of a 2000mAh battery well under$1USD before electronics (which would also be far under $1). Of course, that's assuming scaled production. LiFePO4 are also very safe, non-toxic and Cobalt free.
For those in the know, Lithium AA/AAAs do actually exist, but you can only buy online, mostly from China and they're still crazy expensive. Would say there is definitely a high chance of market manipulation here.
I think it really depends on what you are using the batteries for. In a camera or any devices that sucks out quickly the battery energy, it is worth it. However, for an alarm clock for example (simple one) it is better to have a disposable one. Both efficiency and ecologically thinking are needed.
Nyan Tech Tips
I use'em for everything AA and AAA, don't forget to factor in spares to swap in during the inevitable recharge!
Theoretically, OLED can increase refresh rates exponentially. 4K (3840x2160) OLED is my "dream." :D The only thing is, OLED is hard to produce, so it's expensive. Brightness levels aren't that high, and it's blue pixel life is shorter than the other colors.
do a quickie on how to get your computer up and running after a hard drive/boot drive upgrade, with scenario's of a different os installed, different raid ssd-hhd combination variances of re-installation or reconfigering if any needed?. shortcuts ect
Yes the cost might be less when you consider usage and how many charges you get out of them, but what about the cost of the electricity to charge them?
don't worry about thinking you stole the shamwow slogan. your points made in just this video were 99% better! :) I'm buying a unversal kit and say bye bye desposable
LOL at the end
ntfs is Windows' default file system. Only windows OS's can read/write to drives with this formatting, other systems can only read. fat & fat32 are universal file systems for small drives (flash and SD cards), and they have a limit (I think fat32 is 4gb per file). exFat is also a new file system by windows which macs can read/write to (linux too, but needs special drivers). exFat supports currently impossible sizes of drives and files, measured in exbibytes.
went w/re-chargable AA n mouse and it has a built n charger and use the AA's n clocks and remotes, etc. letting my mouse do all the charging just swap em out as the others discharge putting those back n the mouse n a round robin charge thing. heck u can get el cheapos from asia and never run out of charged ones sure beats buying 10 pack regular batts once or twice a yr keepin that landfill not so filled.
Sam Moss I have a dedicated charger but since all my AA-powered gear use two AA's so I just rotate the NiMH LSD rechargeable AA's among my gears. One set is always sitting in the charger and once something runs out of battery the always-ready set is put into the gear and the depleted batteries are recharged. Not bought a single set of batteries since then.
2 years ago in the G700 Video linus already said, that the Eneloops are his 'weapon of choice'. And why not? They are the best out there!
I have a charger next to my desk 24/7 and use rechargeables where I can, especially in my gaming mouse which goes through one every 2 days. Problem is they're all 1.2V, and many electronics need 1.5V, especially flashlights, for which I bought a pack of cheap Duracell AAAs
They need Power(W) Rechargeable batteries have a lower voltage(1.2V compared to 1.5V) But can output more current.
In my digital camera alkalines discharged to 1.45V, rechargeable to 1.23V
You guys should do an NFC video.
Switchted to Sanyo Eneloops for our game system wireless remotes. The kids could kill an energizer in one sitting easy, and they took way too long to recharge. I bought those bad boys and a charger to power them up properly. (La Crosse Technology BC-700). That's the only thing you forgot to mention Linus, they are not all created equal...
Hay linus if for any reason you saw my comment please make a follow up video about these rechargeable batteries because people need to know that they have to start to use these batteries and why in some devices you shouldn't buy nickel metal hydride batteries and buy lithium batteries that give out 1.5 volts
My personal experience is that for my Apple Magic Mouse (which is a Bluetooth mouse with some advanced features at its heart) and high-power-draw gear like wireless microphones rechargeable batteries can be very useful. My Magic Mouse used two pairs of GP Recyko+ LSD NiMH, one in the devices and another holding full charge as backup set. I have also made retrofit kits for my wireless microphones to use 18650 Li-ion batteries.
I'll play the devils advocate here.
1. You also have to buy a charger
2. A single AA battery is not 1 dollar
3. Rechargable batteries have less capacity than Alkaline or Lithium cells.
4. for non-rechargable, you could just pop another battery in and be ready to go instantly instead of waiting for it to charge for several hours
5. Rechargable batteries are 1.2v while 1.5v which may cause problems in voltage sensitive applications
They were probably recommending a 1000w power supply because the power output of all the components was around 600w. And that is when the 1000w PSU is the most efficient. If that same person bought a 600w power supply the efficiency would have been MUCH worse.
Awwww I remember when this video came out. We were BABIES!
😅
It's not just refresh rate, it's the latency from when it revives it, and when the pixels finally refresh
i have to say that i do enjoy my energizer's and my 15 min recharge on my AA or AAA, still using the batteries after a year's worth of recharging on my wireless headset
Interesting. What happens to the pricing when you factor in the cost of the electricity to recharge the batteries?
Bye the way, LOVE the ear rings.
Recharging a typical AA battery uses about 0.02 kilowatt hours of electricity, at an average of 10 cents per kilowatt hour, that comes out to 0.2(two tenths) cents per charge. So still immensely cheaper than buying disposables.
Do one about PC panels, there are so many different PC screens out there with different price points, panels and features!
I love the eneloop batteries...been working good now for two years at least.
In my digital camera and my wireless mouse and my scientific calculator...whew.
I have saved countless dollars since I bought the rechargeable.
Linus where is that epic video with super slow motion? You said it was going to be upload last week! It's the one with slick holding a sword.
Eneloops are awesome! My dad has 8 for his HS10 camera.
There's a North Korean company selling 2560x1400 100hz IPS monitors, I have no idea how the quality of the monitor is but ppl seem to be happy with them, The thing is they come with no garanties what so ever. The good thing is they cost like 350 bucks :) But the dream is 4k, IPS 120hz monitor :)
Maybe one about GPU naming could be usefull. As some people keep comparing stuff like 580 vs 7950 still, not knowing that the 580 is old generation.
I know it's easy for most but it might help some :)
i dont use rechargables only thing that isnt got a built in battery i own is my keyboard wich lasts 18 months on a pair of energizers what am i going to do ith the other two batteries while these are draining loose them or let them trickle charge for a year and a half and find that ive killed them by the time i need them not worth the hassle
+Fennec Fox (FennecTECH) PS my keyboard is the logitech k400r and i love it to bits
+Fennec Fox (FennecTECH) I've always preferred wired keyboard and mice myself, and always advocate rechargeable batteries for whenever anyone needs them. I have a few things with disposable batteries (specifically my steam controller and the motherboard in my computer) but only for one reason: they were included and have yet to die.
indeed many places (like a handheld gaming system (gba and stuff) rechargables is definitly better but when my televisioin remote lasts less time than my keyboard i have to say they would self drain faster than i can use them and nobody likes replacing batteries
You must not have kids.
post that at the link he put in the description
There are many places where rechargeables don't put out the voltage or current requirements of full alkalines - but 99% of the time they'll do in a pinch! Long live the rechargeable!
the CMOS battery simply lets the motherboard run while the computer is unplugged. if you remove it the next time you turn your computer on any changes you made in the Bios will be removed, along with the windows clock.
That is the problem people look at the at cost now vs the total future cost. This goes for everything including batteries. If you shop around you can get 4 AA NiMh's and a charger for $10. If you wanna get really cheap you can use solar powered patio lights to recharge them.
Haha Def thought the ending was pretty awesome! But totally agree. I try and use rechargeables whenever I can, especially for photography! And another good thing to get with rechargeable bats would be a good charger! Like the POWEREX MH-C9000 WizardOne, which I would love to get since you can charge and discharge them at different rates to make the bats last longer and even recondition them!! =]
Some devices do not like recharageable batteries to do power output 1.2v from rechargeable and normal alkaline are 1.5. So devices might be undervolted and cause damage
Does Linus always do it as fast as possible?
That's an hypnotizing outro Linus!
Linus. Why do some devices say not to use rechargeable batteries? My Sentry safe says it, and a battery operated fan also says this. But why?
TN, available at faster response times and HZ, at the cost of colour accuracy and viewing angles
IPS, better colour accuracy and viewing angles at the cost of slower refresh rates and response times
so you decide. OLED ftw.
Eneloops are AMAZING
Well, one thing...What if you have several devices requiring a total of say...20 batteries? Then, you would need 20 rechargeables or $120 worth, or you could spend 20 bucks and get disposables
have you taken into account the cost of charging the batteries?
Rechargeble batteries are nice, they may cost more at first, but after like, 5 charges, you are already "saving" by not buying more batteries.
I would need at least 16 rechargeable batteries to be perfectly fine.12 of them in things like remotes or game controller and 4 of them as spare, that are fully charged and can be used anytime I need to recharge the ones that are depleted.
"would need", because I'm broke and can't afford to spend $100 on batteries. So I just reuse the same 4 batteries.
The part they do not talk about is "WILL the Rechargeable battery actually be charged and or Usable WHEN you NEED it to be.
I Keep a Flashlight in my Car, always just encase I need it. I also use disposable batteries in it because - I would NEVER trust Rechargeable batteries to work when I need it. Be it a week after I put them in Sure OK they would probably still run the light & run it for a while. Month? Maybe? Three Months untouched My bet is the light will not even come on.
But Disposable, I can use that same light maybe 3 or 4 times a week for 3 minutes or so at a time to find something and still I will bet it will start a year later or hell 2 years later even.
I would however suggest Looking at the batteries at least once a month to make sure there is no corrosion.
Best way to prevent corrosion? When you buy, check package for any rough handling or damage from being dropped, or thrown around. And never toss or throw you batteries around. With Gentle treatment, your Alkaline batteries will almost Never corrode.
Personally I use Rechargeable, but only in thing I use Over and Over on a Daily bases. How often are YOU going to use up the battery? That is the purpose for Rechargeable batteries. Use them Charge them and Use them again. But if you are going to use them Charge them First & make sure more are charging encase you need them them to continue.
Rechargeable batteries Suck in my opinion.
Sometimes I really wonder if the hassle is saving me money or costing me more time.
what about an episode on the battery on a motherboard what does it do and is it important
Forgot to mention rechargeable batteries are only 1.2 volts instead of the standard 1.5 volts on a disposable (in a device that uses 4 batteries, that is the difference between 4.8v of power and 6v of power (a whole other rechargeable battery) It's not that the device won't work, it just won't work to its full potential.)
Why is one of the recommended videos "How to buy nukes on the black market"?
Rechargeable batteries are awesome IF you actually have stuff that requires them.
In our household though, the only thing that I can think of that uses batteries are our remotes and fire alarms... Can't think of anything else...
Quickie on good CPU coolers for overclocking? Maybe one for Intel and one for AMD if needed.
Make one about Audio. About Soundcards and how much you shuld spend on it.
Wonder what happens to "1% of cost of non-rechargeable batteries" when you take into account the delta in your electrical bill?
in games you WILL see a difference. this is because the APU will use the system RAM as video ram. Although the difference probably isn't that big, you mind as well get ram as fast as possible.
You are forgetting one thing , you need to pay to recharge them.
If you have the right charger , you do not need to wait 8 hours
but yes they will degrade faster. And Alkaline batteries do not get disposed
they get recycled they put new peices of metal in them and new acid.
That being said, i would still buy rechargables and an solar panel instead
Would a 600W PSU be able to power 2 7850's and an i5?
Linus, could you do a video about external NAS box's because the 1 you made is starting to get outdated and it's about only a single NAS box.
No, he can see difference between 60Hz and 120Hz, not between TN and IPS.
Protip: 120Hz IPS panels exist too.
Mr. Linus can you do a fast as possible about ntfs,fat & fat 32 file systems.
1:18 people need to start recycling batteries. It's easily available in the uk though i doubt most people even bother, which is a shame.
Is there some update of this information in year 2021?
I want to say "cover dead or stuck pixels" but I feel like i have already seen you talk about it somewhere else. hmmm..
2:01
My sides have entered orbit.
What's happening? Why isn't the time stamp working...?!?
LinusFapTips, you can't deny it Linus.
Good tips, Linus.
please do a fast as possible episode of radeon hd vs. nvidia cards !!!!
The endings keep getting better
In that less than 1%, was there cost of power to charge the rechargeable included?
+Silva Brood charge power is gonna be not much
+Fennec Fox (FennecTECH) Not even noticable on your power bill, in any way shape or form.
1 cent
I havent bought an alkaline AA or AAA battery in almost 10 years. Have my collection of AA's: 4x2300mah energizers, 8x2000mah energizers, 4x2000mah eneloops, and some crappy 1850mah sony something or rathers. plus for AAA same deal, 2 energizers 2 eneloops.
sure total cost of all those is probably around $100, which could have bought me 100 alkalines, which would have lasted less than a year, thus putting 1000 batteries in the landfill over the 10 year period.
rechargeable batteries. BUY THEM
Actually, nominal voltage of alkaline is much less than 1.5V, only a brand-new unused one is 1.5V. Their discharge graphs looks like this: htt p ://q s. l c /p/us (remove spaces from the URL).
Why are rechargeables 1.2 instead of 1.5 v?
Do a techquickie video about how to control 4-pin fans and stuff
No. They are shit for cameras that use flash. They die almost instantly. Its not that they dont have enough mah, it is that the battery cannot handle that high of an instant power draw. Standard alkalines have the same issue, it is why I use high lithiums for my nikon.
So we should use them as fast as possible?
how about the electricity bills used to recharge the batteries?
Before a major weather event I top off as many batteries as possible. I'm not concerned much about Eneloops, as they are a LSD design.
What about the power it takes to charge the rechargeable batteries?
Let's say a battery has 2500mAh and a constant voltage of 1.2 volts. That'd be 3 Wh of energy. Now, if you charge it up 1500 times and say that the power supply's efficiency is 50%, you end up with 9 kWh of energy or between 1 and 2 dollars. So that's about 7 dollars for the accumulator compared to 1000 dollars for batteries.
What I use is a foldable solar panel usb charger to charge powerpacks for phones and my rechargeable batteries. It's free power to me
Nice Music & Animation
I read this title as "Rechargeable Batteries: Use them as fast as possible!
some thinhs are still okay with regular batteries like TV controller because usually from my experience the controller dies before but for more intensive work like game controllers or whatever it's better tho i bought some and they started to give inconsistent voltage after about 10 recharges so i think i got unlucky
in my experience (i know others have different experiences) rechargeable batteries cost 10x more, last 1/2 as long, and go bad after only a few recharges
and these have been energizer brand, not some cheap shit