What's the Best Diet for Climbing? // Peter Croft
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2024
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It's hard to overstate the impact Peter Croft has had on the sport of rock climbing and on inspiring generations of climbers. He is an incredibly well rounded climber, though perhaps best known for his impressive free solos, many hundreds (maybe thousands of them at this point), including Astroman and The Rostrum in Yosemite. Amongst Peter’s other most notable climbs are the first free ascent of Moonlight Buttress in Zion, Venturi Effect in the high sierra, and Solar Flare on Incredible Hulk. Over a 40+ year career I could spend all day talking about what Peter has climbed so I’ll wrap it up with just a couple other mind-boggling accomplishments on big walls: He was the first to link up El Cap and Half dome in a day, which he did with his good friend John Bachar… and he was the first to onsight The Shadow in Squamish, which is a stunning 5.13 that went unrepeated as an onsight for more than 30 years (and some really big names tried it). Peter is an absolute master of endurance and efficiency, born from decades of soloing up and DOWN routes and linking up incredibly long traverses. There’s likely no other climber in the world as intimately familiar with movement over rock than Peter is, especially when it comes to multi-pitch granite and crack climbing. He is as impressive as he is humble, and this conversation is so full of wisdom and genuine stoke I just know it’s going to fill your heart.
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Thanks to Emil Abrahamson recently telling the story of him gaining some weight, but becoming a stronger and healthier climber in the process, I have stopped restricting my weight to what I considered 'normal' and just ate as much as my body told me to.
The gains were incredible. I've gained maybe 2kg in the past 2 months, but also increased my finger strength from 33mm to finally being able to hang 20mm BW, and also increasing my pull up from 130% to 140% BW. I realize now that I was under-fueling big time. I have more energy for my workouts, and thanks to that I can put in the work that lead to those gains.
Love this!!!
As always, I appreciate these interviews so much because they provide so much thoughtful perspective! I imagine the reason Peter had such a good day that next day was probably due to under-eating and being in a caloric deficit for the previous day. His body was more than likely excited about literally whatever he gave it, as long as it was enough calories to meet the needs of the day he had just had climbing. And I also imagine he had probably had not been feeding himself properly in that way for some time. I too have had times where I ate like total crap after climbing and felt amazing the next day, but if you look back, it's because I was giving my body the amount of calories it needed to recover properly. Thoughts?
Thanks for the kind words! Yeah I think your perspective here makes sense. Peter is so psyched on climbing he doesn’t bother with little things like eating when he’s out doing 2000 feet in an afternoon 😂
People underestimate the value of sugar with climbing. Glycogen is an important fuel source for ATP production in the anaerobic state of climbing. Many of the ultra crushers I meet, eat a lot of calories at the crag, much of it being carbs
As someone who cannot eat much period (GI disorder), I have learned that calories are incredibly important & that specific nutrition matters less than we think, if calories are out of whack. Very lean athletic people sometimes forget that they need a certain amount of energy, their bodies are not as invested in their strict diets as their minds. I do think that sports psychology is misused to achieve performance goals, while doing tremendous damage to the mind. I am definitely leery of people with extreme risk tolerance working in psychology, I'll be honest, i think it's a pathology.
He said he was starving himself of fats. He was severely nutrient deficient because his body probably wasn’t even producing hormones properly
As an old Squamish climber its nice seeing Peter on social media....He is both Old and Bold...a very rare breed indeed!
Just an absolute gem of a human
Icecream is actually pretty healthy. Lots of full-fat dairy, few ingredients, no seed oils. The body can handle a bit of sugar.
This is the best news I’ve gotten in ages
@thestruggleclimbingshow looking at the composition of ruminant dairy fat and ruminant fat, we have the perfect composition for human health. 50/50 mono/sat fat with a 2:1 ratio of omega 6:omega 3.
People are terrified of cholesterol, yet studies of centenarians shows that these few 1% have the highest total cholesterol.
Cholesterol shows up where damage has occurred like firefighters to a blaze.
As someone who only eats ice cream when it comes to sweets, I can't relate to this at all. 😂 It's one of the things that I not only enjoy, but even look forward to.
was probably in a calorie deficit for a very long time, body coudnt recover and with the extra calories it finally got what it needed. nothing to do with diet just energie
Same
Well, it is always short term vs long term and non comp climbers vs comp climbers. For a normal person, if you eat super strict like keto diet you will see benefit next day or weeks. But for a comp climber, they compete for the whole year. Can they eat like this every day? Hell, no!!! Can they eat like this occasionally? I doubt it. Eating like this will shorten pro climbers competition life and their general life. But for a normal person who wants to push for a project, eating super strict for short period is totally fine. It is always the performance and sustainability tradeoffs.