Polaris Indy Chain Case With Reverse Teardown And Tips
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- čas přidán 25. 10. 2016
- Here is a video on a chain case from a 2000 indy 500 classic with mechanical revers (chain case reverse). It shows you disassembly and tips for re assembling.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Good video I have done this job before but it still helps to watch it again. I brought my final drive to a machine shop and drilled it out to 3/8-24 because of all the broken bolts and have never had a problem. Well worth it if you have it apart
Tip to put bottom bolt back in: compress the spring in a vice, zip tie it with a couple of ties get bolt started and then cut the zip ties.
I actually just compressed coil springs on my mercury with ratchet straps😂.hey,whatever works
Tip drill a hole threw the side on the sled and stick a extension threw with a 1/2 socket and stick it threw then put the socket on and then jst push it in and turn and boom it’s easy to get off and put on and when u done get a little putty weld or whtever and plug the hole same way theguybefore me did the bottom bolt for the chaincase so I jst plug em and poke em out when I need to do work
Had to look for awhile to find a video like this. Thanks for the info.
Thank-you very much for the excellent explanation and video I just picked up an indy500 was apart so really really Helpful ! cheers
How did you get the friggin cover off
Great video
My bottom bolt backed off and went through my chain case.
Thank you been in it before but great refresher!
good explanation doing my track. thanks man
You were right, the spring is EXTREAMLY hard to get back in, it took me a whole day to get it back in. Although, I had the tubes in my way that run next to it.
Thanks man, just the video i needed to see before changing the track on mine!
Helped me out. Thanks
Is there suppose to be a little slack on the arm that's outside of the chaincase? I noticed that it has a little back and fourth play and wondering if oil can leak out of it
Thanks. I need to look at my 97. When I put it into reverse it just grinds. This video and another for installing a reverse kit provides what I need. Thanks.
Can you provide link to that video? I have the same problem, thanks
Thank you, my '03 frontier 750 has snapped the lower drive twice, any thoughts? I drive it a mile to my ice fishing spot and back,( slowly) have replacement ready to install but would like a heads up.
the little nubs on the inside of both bottom gears, do they run together when in forward? Last season my sled wouldnt move forward it was skippig on somthing but reverse worked. Had to reveree across the lake back to truck
i filled gear oil on the chain case. would that be too thick? the 2 bolts on the chaincase cover, are they for filling and the getting correct level? the upper has a square in it, the lower is a 15 mm
The fork doesn't catch the outside of the reverse gear. It hooks toward the center of the gear inside of where the spring pushes it in.
do u know how much oil u need to put back into the chain case?
How did you get the cover off?
Im helping my grandfather with his polaris, we're having a hard time taking off the lid. Is there anything i need to keep in mind?
Anyone know how to replace the shift fork pins? Tried to heat and tap out without success.
i wanted to see how you removed the case cover
The spring on the bottom of the chain case can be a BASTARD. How did you get it back on by yourself? Special homemade tool?
I have the same chaincase. My fork is in forward position but I believe the reverse gear is out, not allowing room to slide cover off the pully. Thoughts?
I have the same problem
really good video, do you know the dimensions on the washer that sits on the reverse gear?
A little late lol, but here is the dimension of the reverse gear washer: 1 5/8” O.D. 1” I.D. 3/32” thick.
And the pinion gear washers - 1 1/8” O.D. 5/8” I.D. 1/16” thick.
I have a question for you. I am going through my wife's 98 polaris xlt classic with reverse, that we bought this spring because under the hood it was all corroded and rusted to where alot of things didnt work. Well I took off the chaincase after I drained the oil and cleaned all of the gunk and stuff out of both sides of the chaincase as well as put a new seal/gasket on for the cover. Well when I first took the chaincase cover off, I also took off the fork and lever from it so I could clean the cover real good but also everything was rusty. Well now I'm trying to get the chaincase cover back on but I'm not sure how the forks are supposed to be sitting when they are installed in the chaincase. I know they have to be inside of the outer gears ring to pull the gear out to engage reverse, but whenever I've installed it, the forks ended up being flat against the case. But from what you said in your video, the forks should be perpendicular(or close to 90 degrees) to the chaincase cover, and should stay that way when the cover is installed? Also, what position should the shift lever on the chaincase be when reverse is not engaged? Say you're sitting on the seat looking at the reverse lever on the chaincase(that actually moves the fork), should it be at 4 o'clock postion not engaged and say 1 o'clock when its engaged? Her sled had the flip up reverse handle that is attached to the front of the handlebars. Thanks for any help you can give me
Don’t know if you’re still working on this, but I just had one apart and got it working. If you just look down at the horseshoe/ forky thing while you’re putting the cover back on, you can see whether the teeth slide into the groove on that larger gear or not. I didn’t have any trouble just wiggling the shift arm so that it lined up properly. Hope you can get her goin good luck
@@ratherbefishing4225 Hey, thanks for the input. My issue was that when I took the chaincase cover off, I ended up taking the clip that holds the fork onto the splined shaft/lever because there was some crud in behind there that I wanted to clean out. It ended up taking me a month or 3 to get back to it and that's when I realized I forgot to take a picture of how it was orientated when the two were together. I made a post in one of the forums I'm in and thankfully one of the other members had a couple of pictures that helped me out. So I was able to get it put back together and tested it out and it works perfectly
whats the trick you use to get that heavy spring and bolt back,
on the final drive
Channel locks with a big spread. Grip on the lip of the inside gear and on the edge of the bolt spring assembly. Squeeze and get that bolt started. Be patient, don’t cross thread. Once you get it going there’s no need for the channel locks. Be sure to use blue loctite
You ever replace the reverse fork dowels? I haven't really attempted yet but i can't really figure out a setup for pressing it out
I pressed mine out by putting it in a vise - on the outer end of the dowel I used an Allen bit, the kind you insert into a screwdriver. Make sure it is a smaller diameter than the dowel! On the inner end I used a socket big enough to allow the dowel to slip through. Put steady pressure on the vise and they’ll come out. Once out I thought about just flipping them around to use the good end but decided they were cheap enough to replace.
@@CBCycles yeah I just had to get a beefy C clamp and mounted it in a vise, it worked well but some of them I had to heat it real hot to get it out. Some werent very tight tho so I red loctited all of them, with a mental note for next time.
I need some help with this I tried the heat got it blue hot and tried to tap it out didn’t work is the vise the best option
@@debow567 I used a c clamp and a socket to do mine, apply pressure and heat with torch
Do you have any idea on how to replace the pins on the shift fork?
I am also trying to find this out I tried heating and tapping out without success.
@@debow567 I picked up a punch slightly smaller diameter than the pin in the fork and cut off the handle so all I had was straight shaft, I then took 3 or 4 1/4 20 nuts and taped them together. Hold the nuts on the inside of the fork and the cut off punch on the pin on the outside of the the fork and insert in a vice and press the fork pin out. I tried pressing the fork pin out from the inside of the fork to the outside but it got tighter, it should press out from the outside of the fork to the inside. Once you get the bad pins out press the new ones In, inside the fork towards the outside.
Bruh what a long comment😳😳😳
Fresh oil is filled through yellow dip stick right?
Right
Or the 3/8 square drive plug at the top of the chaincase
He needs to clean up his language, otherwise he explained everything that was very easy to understand.