Krasnogorsk 3 - Removing the loop formers.
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- čas přidán 18. 04. 2021
- I haven't seen a video focused on removing the loop formers of the K3, so I decided to make one. This is NOT a tutorial, if you want to use the info that I describe here do it at your own risk.
If you need the "film raiser" part that I mention in the video you can buy it here:
www.ebay.com/itm/234356357827
#krasnogorsk #krasnogorsk3 #16mm #16mmfilm #kodak #kodakfilm #super16 #lenses #m42 #stillphotography #moviecamera #meteor #film #filmcamera #loops - Krátké a kreslené filmy
Hi, thank you very much for the comprehensive explanations of this video. It is very clear how to remove the loop formers: I tried to do it myself and I succeeded despite not having great familiarity in this matter. I absent-mindedly left out a very important aspect before performing this operation: make sure that the two screws of the main sprocket were positioned centrally in order to be able to remove the internal part, otherwise this would not be possible. In this video this operation is very well underlined! Thank you so much for sharing your precise and complete knowledge about Krasnogorsk-3 which allows all of us to use this camera as if it were new!!!❤🙏
I just received my K3 and I was looking for how to remove the loop formers. Thanks !
I'm glad to hear this video helped you. I hope you shoot some nice films with your new K3.
Thank you for a very excellent tutorial
Thank you so much for this breakdown- just was able to remove my loop formers successfully - thank you for being so detailed.
I'm glad to hear it was helpful!
Super helpful guy...Great video!!
great in depth video, thank you!
My pleasure!
Great video! Did you figure out what was wrong with your K3 in the end? I ordered one and just received it, after winding it up, the trigger doesn't seem to fire and the shutter is jammed. Any ideas or solutions based on your experience?
Sounds like your camera is stuck too. Old grease and lubricants solidify with time. If you can wind the camera up and it holds the power that would mean the motor is in good condition. So you would have to open the camera and start checking what parts move. Unfortunately looks like the part that is more prone to getting stuck is the front. You have to remove the decoration and the there are 4 screws there. Don't apply pressure to the mirror-shutter you can break it or miss align the shutter causing an issue with timing. Pretty much what you can do at that point is to rotate a gear that is next to the shutter and try to remove the old lubricants with lighter fluid. Probably a technician would completely disassemble the mechanism to clean it, but if you can free it, just by applying some naphtha the camera would work. The K3s are very simple, but it depends on your abilities to fix and decipher things.
For the center piece that fits on the spindle (the piece you marked with the silver sharpie), is there a special direction the spindle needs to face? I see there's a flat portion along the spindle's shaft, and am wondering if that has to align with the screws, or face away from them?
Yes, the two screws must be facing the flat part of the shaft. That's how it locks into place.
@@TheCinematographyLab Ok thank you! Somehow, the flat part ended up 180 from the screws - any way I can get it to rotate?
@@brendanleahy6079 Pull the trigger and wind the camera at the same time. The camera will operate, but only as long as you rotate the winding knob. Set the camera to 8fps to have more control.
hey man great video. it seems on my camera there is only one little screw on the black round thing that you marked with the silver marker. is this possible? i tried to turn it to see if the other screw is hidden but i cannot seem to turn it
I have seen a lot of K3s and all those cameras had 2 screws. I think it's hidden. If the gears are still in place (engaged) you can pull the trigger and crank the camera at the same time. That should activate the camera and rotate that black shaft. You can set the camera to 8fps so the mechanism rotates slower and you can look for the screws and position them in a convenient position to extract them.
Hi, I opened the camera and I can't unscrew the only screw I see in the central main sprocket. The spring loaded is stuck and I can't see the second screw, practically unable to raise the internal top. How can I unlock the main sprocket and also see the second screw to remove the internal part? 😱
Somebody help me! Thanks
great vid, as someone ready to purchase one of these I have a few quick questions, if you would be so kind. Most that I can find have the loop formers, is it really that bad to leave them in? I have the choice to convert to super16 or ultra 16, but ive heard many scanning shops cant, or wont, scan ultra 16.. that there are too many alignment problems? 3rd and final is the light meter battery, I didn't find a cheap kit but wondering if you even need this? probably can just measure light manually and set right? I love this camera and am excited. last time I ran 16 was in a bolex in the early 80s and I had to change reels in the black bag. I cant even believe we can do it in light with open reels. that blows my mind ha ha. thanks much!
Thanks! I can answer your questions from my own perspective then you can decide if you agree or not. Is it really that bad to leave the loop formers in? No, it's not. If the loop formers work correctly they won't scratch the film. Unfortunatelly at this point even the most recent K3 is at least 3 years old and as I explain in the video the threads lose their tension and strength with time. You may try testing the loop formers first, then try to adjust them if needed. In my opinion it's easier to just remove the entire system. I just checked and a spool of film is in the $65 range + processing and scanning + shipping and taxes. I don't want to spend $150 just to learn the loop formers scratched the film. Again you can leave them in, just make sure the film is not touching them once you push that lever down or put the cap on.
Converting the camera to U16 or S16. Well you don't have to convert it to begin with. I'm not fan of squared aspect ratios and I'm greedy. I want to use as much as I can out of the film. At the end of the day the price to process and scan is the same, but you get more pixels. S16 is the best format in my opinion, but no the best format for the K3. Filing the gate is very easy, but nobody is going to convert the viewfinder to s16 for you, so you have to guess. With U16 you don't get as much real state, but you get a bit more for sure. A good thing about U16 is you cannot see the area you are capturing neither, but it's the same area on both sides, so it's easier to frame. With exemption of one lab in LA I'm not aware of any lab having problems with U16 or charging more for it. It used to be a problem 10 years ago, but today most scanners can scan the entire negative. They don't really care if they are scanning R16, U16 or S16. I'm not saying they don't pay attention or do it in a different way, I'm saying technology has evolved to a point where getting an "over scan" is not a problem at all.
The best thing you can do to measure light is get a hand held light meter. The shutter angle of the K3 is 150° so you get an exposure equivalent to 1/60th of a second if you are using a still photography meter. You can use an app. There are some light meter apps that are free. I'm always buying and selling still photography cameras and I can tell you that meters are all over the place, especially with cameras like the K3 that requires a battery that is no longer produced. After some time the cells wear and meters are not accurate anymore. You can compare light meters with other meters or you can send it in to be calibrated. I don't know if Du-All can calibrate the meter of a K3, it's not impossible, but I would just get a meter. You get even better results.
"I cant even believe we can do it in light with open reels"... I wouldn't say that's a true statement, but I don't think that's new neither. Film is a photo sensitive material. That's the escence of film and it hasn't changed at all. Cameras like the K3, Bolex, Scoopic among other cameras take spools that are known as "daylight spools" This can of containers can be loaded in subdued light. I can tell you from experience that even when I have loaded the cameras in subdued lighting conditions I get film film burns or at least unusable images for about 10 seconds. If you don't load the camera fast or if you try to load the camera under bright or sunny light you can damage a good amount of film. There are several films online that have an over exposed or burned side. That is what happens when someone takes a long time to load the camera or do it in a bright situation. You don't need a changing bag or a dark room, you can load the camera in subdued light if you want to make sure is properly loaded. I spent an hour practicing how to load the camera in total darkness and now I can do it without any problems. Everybody learns how to put film in to developing reels and tanks when you take a class. It can be frustrating, but it's not impossible. I talk about loading the K3 and testing it with film on this video:
czcams.com/video/eZeMi61SY5Y/video.html
Question for you! Awesome video! Unfortunately while trying to take off the barrel screws (which were not aligned) i messed up the crank and now it wont wind. Meaning i cant reach the screws to take off the barrel. Any idea on how to fix this?
Well, it's complicated, but here is something you can do. unscrew the 6 (I guess) screws that keep the silver plate in place and try to lift the plate. That should release the energy stored in the motor if the motor was cranked.
After that the mechanism should move freely. It's heavy, but it moves. You have to remove the front plate of the camera. The one that says Krasnogorsk 3, then remove the screws that are holding that part and take it off. Be careful. The release button has a small spring, you don't want to lose that. At that point the mirror shutter and the gears should be exposed. You have to push the release button and rotate a gear that is in vertical position (when the camera is sitting normally). Use a rag so the metal doesn't scratch your thumb. When you rotate that gear the entire mechanism moves inside the camera. If you don't push the trigger the mechanism won't move, so don't forget that part. Now you have turn the gear until the screws located in the barrel get in the right position.
You are going to be fighting the motor, so the mechanism can feel heavy. If you unscrewed the screws on the barrel half way they will not let the barrel rotate, so you will have to go in the opposite direction.
Don't touch the mirror or the focusing screen. Don't put pressure on the mirror shutter. If you try to clean the focusing screen you will leave cleaning marks that look big on the viewfinder. Don't touch the prisms in the front. They are very difficult to align.
I hope that helps.
This ended up working somehow! Thank you so much for the help! I feel like I understand the camera a lot more now as well.
@@TheCinematographyLab
Hi, excellent video! I noticed you mentioned that you 3D printed the small plastic piece at the 5:19 mark. Is there any chance you'd share the STL files for me to print my own? I snapped off one of the little side pieces of it upon removal.
I invest a lot of my time and money working on these things, for that reason I cannot just give away the stuff. I can sell you one for $10.
@@TheCinematographyLab No worries! I was able to find a friend to help me reprint my broken copy, thank you anyways.
What kind of screwdriver did you use to remove the smaller screws?
A small Husky screw driver from Home Depot. They cost around $7 and they are good quality tools.
great video - thanks. i removed the two screws from the main sprocket but it still will not lift up off of the shaft to allow me to remove the plate. i even tried pulling it upwards gently with needle nose plyers. any ideas? it seems to lift up with no problems in this and one other video I could find.
Hi Jonathan, I'm glad you found the video helpful. Well that part can be tricky, and first of I'll say I don't think is a good idea to use pliers or metallic objects on those rolls because you can scratch them and they are in direct contact with film and that would translate in scratching the film.
What I'm going to say may be obvious but I'll say it anyways. In my experience he black roller or cylinder in the middle is attached to the shaft only by the two screws that you mention as soon as you loose them the roller should spin freely, but you won't be able to lift it because the black plastic parts that are part of the mechanism are in the way. Now if the roller spins freely then you have to lift the entire plate and it will come off. If the roller doesn't spin freely on the shaft that could probably mean that someone glued it to the shaft. I know what I'm saying may be obvious but what I can tell you is there is no mechanical connection between the shaft and the roller, so if the screws are not applying pressure to the shaft and it doesn't rotate freely then there is something else like glue.
Dissembling the rest of the rollers and that mechanism is not complicated, it can be tricky because some parts interlace at some point, but you can study it and put it back easily. You can even video record the process so you can watch it back and see how you dissembled it. That would allow you to work on the center roller, and apply some gentle pressure to remove it, but it is more work and it depends on your skills. I'm glad to share what I know, but I take no responsibility for anything you decide to do with your camera.
@@TheCinematographyLab Thanks for your response. Yes, I realized what you were saying about using plyers on the main sprocket after it was too late : D I scuffed it up pretty bad and then realized it could scratch the film. I already ordered a new K3, so I will just have to use this one for parts, unless I can find a replacement and figure out how to get the old one off. Yes it's strange that despite removing the two screws it still won't come loose. I was thinking maybe certain production runs of the K3 have something else besides the screws holding it in place? Not sure. It could be glue as you said however this is an unused, 'new' camera. But who knows? Anyways thanks for the help and for the great videos - they are super helpful.
@@jonathanspruance4502 Ohh noo! Well you can always use a file to clean those scratches up and polish the part, as long as it is smooth it doesn't damage the film, or if you can remove the old one and want to repair that one I have at least two K3s that I can use for parts, let me know.
I have seen a few cameras that are stuck, actually I have one right now, the one that I used on this video and there is nothing there but old grease and who knows what, rust, moisture that in a way "soldered" the parts together. I mean it happens with cars too, after some times metal parts get stuck and they are very difficult to take off. I mean it could be a different design, but I've worked on K3s from different production years and they were all the same.
@@TheCinematographyLab yes, maybe I just got one that's 'soldered' in some way and hard to disassemble. When the new camera comes I think I'll try to shoot some footage with the loop formers in place first (says they and the gate are polished) and see how it goes before I attempt to remove them again. Thanks for the tips and offer to help - appreciate it!
Interesting.Cheers!
Might be a silly question, but does removing the loop formers and therefore the rest of the pulley system make the footage counter not work?
No. The footage counter continues to work. The only difference is the lever that touches and measures the film gets lose, so you have to move the lever to the side in order to load the film. Actually I think the footage counter is more accurate when you remove the loop formers, because there is nothing holding it.
Hey, I’m curious about the little plastic part you 3D printed. I have 2 K3’s and I know for sure one doesn’t have that part, I’ll have to check the other. But what does it do exactly? Is it a film guide of some sorts? And how can I get one? Thanks!
Hi Andrew, the part keeps the film leveled as it gets in and out of the actual pulling mechanism. It may seem like an unimportant part, but if you don't have it in place the camera will jam every time.
You can buy one here: www.ebay.com/itm/234356357827
eBay and shipping will take at least $10, so yeah I'm not being greedy really.
@@TheCinematographyLab ahhh fantastic!! I was searching for “K3” parts on eBay but nothing was coming up, or not the piece I was looking for. Thank you so much! I will order a few just in case my other K3 doesn’t have it either.
I’ve shot a few rolls and I’ve never had an issue with it jamming, but I’ve had a really tough time getting the film to load properly, it would always jump out of the loading/advancing mechanism. Hopefully this helps that. Thanks so much!
@@andrewwatts970 No problem. I think the part should help with keeping the camera running properly. Imagine having a pair of gears that were designed to rotate together in a flat position and you change the angle of one of them a bit. They would continue to work, but they would have a hard time and there would be more friction causing a change of the timing at which the mechanism rotates, right? It's almost the same just with sprockets and sprocket holes.
If you sent me a message on eBay please send me an email to: aresvisuals1@gmail.com
Hi there, short question: what if the small screws that hold the black barrel in place don't appear to be visible? My motor is jammed too and I don't see them rn. Is there a work around?
Hi Elia, there is a workaround. You have to remove the front of the camera and turn the gears by hand while you pull the trigger. That way you can rotate the entire mechanism in a safe way.
In order to see the gears on the front you have to remove the aluminum plate where the Krasnogorsk insignia is. You have to be careful if you don't want to bend it a lot. It's almost impossible to remove it without bending it. Then there are 4 screws and there it is. You may have to use some sort of de-greaser in order to rotate the mechanism. Naphtha works fine, just be careful and read the instructions.
@@TheCinematographyLab Hey man, thank you so much for your quick and super helpful answer! I was able to unveil the screws and keep on removing the loop formers as shown in the video. Thanks again also for this awesome tutorial!
@@elialang5953 I'm glad to hear the information was helpful. Thank you for watching.
Thankyou muchly for this great guide - I belive I have done it correctly !
This may be a silly question but looking through the viewfinder while pressing the trigger to roll motor results in a flickered viewfinder image - I imagine this is just the nature of a reflex viewfinder and is a "live view" of the mirror spinning around the gate blocking and letting in light with speed depending on the FPS - is this correct?
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful!
You are correct. What you are seeing is the mirror spinning sending some light up to the viewfinder and letting some light go trough to expose the film.
All cameras that have a spinning mirror look like that. You don't see that on Super 8 or Bolex cameras that are equipped with a prism. I rather see the flickering than having a prism in the way. Nothing better than having only air between the back of the lens and the film in my opinion.
@@TheCinematographyLab fantastic! thankyou
The black circular part with the two screws you have to take out is not lined up how it is in the video so I am unable to take the second screw out to take off the whole face of it. Any idea as to how to trouble shoot this issue?
You have to position the screws first so you can remove them. If you didn't do that remove the one you already take completely. The last thing you want is to trigger the camera which will rotate that black part and get the camera stuck. So either take that screw or screw it back in, then set the camera at 8fps, wind it up a bit and pull the trigger. That will rotate that black cylinder. Find the position where the two screws are accessible and you are set.
Hello Ruben, I want to thank you for all your videos about the k3. They have definitely inspired me to follow that path so now I am a happy owner of one of these wonderful cameras. I ask you a dummy question on the subject: my camera came with a roll already loaded, I opened it without knowing that it was loaded and when I asked the seller about the subject he didn't know that the camera was loaded. The thing is that I was thinking of advancing the entire roll without exposing it (with the lens covered) to leave all the film in the other spool, but I was wondering if this makes sense, or the best thing would be to cut the roll in half and rethread the movie using another spool. And also, I was wondering if there will be any consequences when I decide to load it again with the film on the other side. I thank you for your patience and I wish you much success on your channel
Thanks for the good wishes and for watching the videos Ilich, I'm glad to hear they are helpful.
I'm not sure if you got the 2 reels with the camera or just one and you are asking if you can reuse that spool. First of all I don't think you can do anything with the film that was in the camera. Who knows if it was exposed to light, you don't know what kind of film it is and you exposed it yourself (nothing wrong with that) I think it's a good opportunity for you to run some film through the camera to see how it behaves. You can reuse that same film to practice loading the camera, which can be tricky. I would not try to use it to film something personally. You can save that film so you can use it later to perform tests like the one I run on my camera where I marked the frames with a marker.
You are not going to damage anything by running film through the camera, that's the entire purpose of the camera. My recommendation is use that film to play with the camera and see how it works. Best wishes.
@@TheCinematographyLab you're right Ruben. Guess I should keep calm/ relax and just play with this roll and see what
happens. Hope to keep in touch with other questions pretty soon. 🔥
Hey! I have issues to put the plate back. I’m trying to place it down but the wind doesn’t move and is stuck to something. When I try add pressure it does make loud sound and click one time which scares that I broke something
Hi there, it's impossible for me to know what's going on without looking at the camera. There are no parts that can brake easily, but don't force anything. My recommendation is to pay attention to the details and try again a few times. Putting the plate back can be frustrating.
Be patient, pay attention to everything, don't force anything, don't apply excessive force and the plate will fall in place.
If you want to send a video I can try to see what's going on: aresvisuals1@gmail.com
I removed the loop formers with no problem. Then I noticed a motor problem which likely existed before I made modifications. I took apart the camera a bit. The tension on the spring releases as I did. Now I can’t get to the two screws on the master sprocket. So now I can’t dissemble the camera to work on the motor. Any suggestions?
I'm not sure I understand the question. In order to remove the loop formers you had to unscrew the two screws located on the side of the black cylinder that transport the film, are you saying that that one moved and now you cannot access the screws?
I don't have a camera in front of me, but I was thinking about it and you can simply push the release button or trigger and wind the camera at the same time, the mechanism rotates when you do that, it just doesn't hold the wind or the power.
Hey, I'm having the same problem with the trigger not working, I read that you know the fix and offered a work around. Could you do a step by step video of how to do that like you did for this please?
There are several probable causes for a K3 to not work properly. In my case I know the motor is in good condition because I can feel the resistance when I try to wind the camera up. In this specific case I think the camera gears in the front part are stuck, some naphtha should solve the issue. I don't know if I can do that video anytime soon, but I'll document the process if I do it sometime for sure.
Hi, thanks for the video !
I bought a K3 recently and the camera works strangely: sometimes I have a part of the film that is spoiled by the following defect: during the shooting the film slides into the image window. In this case a huge vertical motion blur prevents the image from taking shape. I have the impression that when this malfunction appears, a strong metallic noise also appears.
Does anyone know where this problem comes from and how to fix it? Is it due to the loops formers?
Thanks!
or maybe the problem is that I don't have the little plastic piece you mentioned in the first few minutes of the video?? thanks !
It's impossible to say without looking at the camera, but I think you already found the problem. The issue you describe sounds like the effect you get when the camera looses the loop. Since your camera still has de loop formers you have to make sure the loop formers are moving away from the film when you put the lid on. To recreate that (to an extent) push the lever down and see if the loop formers move enough to the side to let the film move freely while it runs.
Those two things can cause problems, but you know what is actually causing the issue. Yes, that little plastic part is there to keep the film leveled as it enters the mechanism. When the part is missing the film enters the mechanism at an angle clogging the camera. You are lucky if the camera keeps running at all, but you are obviously getting the effect you get when the loops are lost.
I sell replicas of that part. The link is in the description, but I'm not trying to sell anything. You can put something in the place of that part to keep the film leveled. I once got a camera with a piece of a wooden clothes pin there. It was not the original part, but it did the job.
Thank you very much for your answer, I will try to retore the loop formers and I will get back to you!
Another question: do you have an idea of an adapter that would allow the use of Bolex optics in C-mount with the M42 screwing of the K3? Thanks :)
@@jacquessorrentini2184 No problem. It would be technically impossible to adapt C-Mount lenses and expect them to work normally. The M42 is not exactly friendly because the mount is so close to the flange focal distance of other mounts like Nikon and Canon. The mount can be replaced to use other mounts, but C-Mount impossible.
I just followed this video to remove the loop formers. Now the magazine cover is loose? Any tips?
Well the reason for for the cover to be loose is because the loop formers mechanism is not applying pressure to it anymore. What I have done with my cameras is to ad some light seals made out of craft foam as I explain in another video available on my channel. It costs like $3 dollars, some work and you ad another layer of protection to your camera. At the same time you ad some pressure to the cover and it doesn't rattle anymore.
Hi at 4:49, you mention that the camera cannot work without this piece. My k-3 camera didn’t come with this part. Where can i buy one, or 3D print one like you? What is it called?
You found it on eBay. It's on its way!
www.ebay.com/itm/234356357827
@@TheCinematographyLab thank you! i’ve been trying to remove the plate and i removed all the screws but it just won’t lift up, is there anything that i could do for that? the parts opposite to the loop formers is lifting up but the black circular part just won’t come up
is there any chance i could send you my camera and you could service it? i've been trying to get the baffle plate up for 5 hours
@@joab8436 Did you unscrew the 2 screws that keep the black circular part in place? I know it's a long video and people don't watch it entirely, but that's a crucial step. You have to align the screws and get them loose. If you didn't do that it's going to be difficult to align them now.
Send me a video to aresvisuals1@gmail.com and I'll try to help, but I don't service cameras for other people, I just work on the cameras I own.
@@TheCinematographyLab ok will do!
I have another question. I bought the super 16 gate on ebay and the recentering ring. I know how to change the gate, but i dont know´how to remove the frontal part of the camera to change the ring. Can you help me??Maybe is too much to ask hahaha
No, it’s not too much Ignacio, actually I can point you in the right direction. Removing the front of the camera is easy, but you don’t have to do it to replace the mount, you just have to remove the 4 screws holding the mount, install the new one in the right position and you are set.
Those mounts that they sell on eBay are not exactly properly machined so you can expect a change on the focal flange distance which is going to translate on the zoom lens not holding focus while you zooming in or out and maybe some problems with infinity focus, but that’s the price you have to pay if you don’t want to send the camera to a technician to adjust the FFD for you.
@@TheCinematographyLab I tried but i can´t get to that 4 screws because of the m42 mount. Is better if I only change the gate but not the the ring??
@@ignaciobascon9670 I'm not sure I understand. To swap the mount you just have to remove those 4 screws around the m42 mount. If you already have the re-centering ring you can see that one has 4 holes for screws, those are the ones. You don't have to remove the entire front of the camera to do it, just remove the 4 screws located on the rounded, silver m42 mount and install the new one.
It's not better or worst, it's about functionality. If you don't re-center the mount of the lens by replacing the mount you are not going to be using the center of the lens which is the best part and if you use the zoom lens it is going to be weird when you zoom in or out because the image is going to zoom to one side of the frame instead of the center.
If you are planing to use prime lenses designed for still photography, the mount is not a big issue because those lenses cover a way bigger area than S16. If you replace the mount you are risking changing the focal flange distance and having problems with focusing at infinity and parfocal lenses.
Tambien hablo Español.
@@TheCinematographyLab I'm gonna use it with 35mm photography lenses (no zoom lenses) and I don´t want to mess with the focus. It is better to not change the ring or that´s not the problem?
La voy a usar con lentes de fotografía de 35mm de distancia focal fija. Mi duda es si el problema del enfoque vendría con el cambio de anillo o simplemente con el cambio de la puerta de super 16mm?
Mil gracias por tu ayuda!!!!
@@ignaciobascon9670 Con gusto Ignacio. Tecnicamente en cuanto quitas algo y lo vuelves a poner ya estas cambiando la "Focal Flange Distance" (no se como se dice en Español) Pero tienes mas posibilidades de que se altere esa distancia si cambias la montura, por que las que venden en eBay, al menos una que me toco a mi estan muy mal hechas.
Aun si le llevaras la camara a un tecnico esa persona tendria que tornear la parte de metal o agregar algunas cuñas para ajustarla a esa distancia, pero puedes intentar cambiar la montura y si no te enfoca a infinito pones la que traia la camara y ya. Tecnicamente en el momento que desatornillas algo estas cambiando esa distancia que debe estar calibrada a centesimas de milimetro, pero la verdad es que las K3 no tenian esos estandares de calidad de fabrica asi que no puedes intentar las dos cosas sin problema.
Si piensas usar lentes para camaras de foto fija no tendrias ningun problema si no re centras la montura. Esos lentes cubren un area muchisimo mayor a la del S16. Es notorio como te decia antes cuando usas lentes zoom por que si el lente no esta recentrado sientes como que la imagen se va ara un lado, eso es por que va a lo que anteriormente era el centro del 16 regular.
Yo hace tiempo converti una a S16, la que use para filmar en mi video de Santa Monica, pero no puedes ver una parte del visor y aun cuando hice muchas pruebas y me hice un mapa mental y tuve buenos resultados era un tanto molesto. Te recomiendo que hagas algunas pruebas para encontrar el centro del cuadro de S16. Se puede usar un pedazo de cinta para encontrarlo sin gastar pelicula, despues hare un video de eso.
crazy tutorial
Hello, I just followed your instructions to remove loop formers. Everything is good but now my trigger isn’t working. Can you guess why? Except that everything is good. What did I done wrong?
Hello, It's impossible to say without looking at the camera. The most common problem is the gear not being properly aligned. If that's the case you won't be able to wind the camera up and it won't work. Try going back to the beginning. Start again, but be careful to go trough the steps. If the camera was working before, it should work again, so you are doing something wrong, but it's impossible for me to tell you what is that.
@@TheCinematographyLabthank you.
I tried reassembling this again and again. I can wind up the camera. But just trigger is not working.
Is there anyway I can break the trigger? Sorry for this. I know this is so blurry. I don’t know why suddenly trigger is not working
@@sangbinpark5584 Does the camera remain wound up when you wind it? Try to think about parts hitting against each other putting a lot of friction on them. Send me a video. You may have to upload it to CZcams or send it via We-transfer.
@@TheCinematographyLabHello, I just want to let you know I fixed my camera. The problem was, recently I changed my lens mount to PL. and this guys made screw so huge. So this screw was stucked in shutter blade. It’s ridiculous long. I don’t know why I haven’t seen it. Anyway somehow it happened when I remove my loop former.
Thank you so much. I really appreciate your kindness
@@sangbinpark5584 Good to hear that!
What country are you from?
I'm originally from Mexico, but I live in the United States of America.
If I can’t get the motor to spin, how can I access the small screws ?
You have to remove the front of the camera. Remove the insignia plate or cover, then the 4 screws, once you can see the gears pull the shutter release (trigger) and rotate one of the gears that are positioned vertically. That should rotate the mechanism.
Do NOT try to rotate the mechanism by turning the mirror shutter. It may brake or it may lose it's timing.
@@TheCinematographyLab this is helpful, as the trigger just stopped working out of nowhere
@@TheCinematographyLab as for the motor being strange, do you have any suggestions for fixing the trigger and motor?
@@justinbackert1567 If it quit working suddenly that sounds like the motor may be damaged. Cameras that haven't been used in a long time can have dried grease issues, but those cameras are stuck and don't work at all.
I have another video where I show how to remove the motor. There is not much you can do with it since it is sealed and it's dangerous to open them because of the pressure they hold. When you open the camera you can see if something obvious is not letting the mechanism move. The mechanical parts are obvious and not fragile. I wouldn't touch the optical parts tho. Please subscribe!
@@TheCinematographyLab so far, I’ve got the front removed and was able to manually move gear. That worked for a while, but then it began moving when I held down the trigger without touching the gear. I believe it had something to do with the button.
And don’t you worry, I’ll be subscribing right away!
I pulled the plate and it won’t wound do I have to reseat it
The gears are not engaging any more. You can try pushing the plate down a bit and winding the camera to see if it falls in place by itself. If that doesn't work you have to pull the plate, put the gear back in position and try again.
@@TheCinematographyLab gear as I’m the black thing with the small screws ? Appreciate you a lot to
@@TheCinematographyLab I never got to pull the plate out entire just went to unscrew and thought I had the two small unscrewed one was one wasn’t smh
@@javansmith3080 Pull the release button and wind the camera at the same time, that will activate the mechanism. Remove the screw you already started completely before winding the camera or it may cause scratches.
@@TheCinematographyLab thanks so much I got to the gesr but it just won’t fall in place which is the easiest way you found
Please show how to loosen the motor also
Thank you for checking it out Michael! You have some nice stuff as well. I'll have to do my research on the motor, but since I have several cameras "for parts" I can experiment without damaging a good one. I'll do it soon.
Removing the motor is actually quite simple. Remove the camera's plate as shown in the video, then using a spanner wrench remove the screw that holds the winding key and the motor should come right out. Take your time as there are washers on both the motor and winding mechasm, so be mindful of those as well as other small parts in the winding mechanism. They should stay held in place either by grease or springs, but a little extra caution never hurts :)
@@movieman95 Thanks for that info! I have a camera that is stuck and I suspect the motor is the problem, so I will definitely give it a try.
@@TheCinematographyLab Happy to help! This might be obvious, but I would recommend making sure your motor is wound down before attempting to remove it if at all possible. I once had the spring motor from an 8mm camera that wasn't fully unwound fly out at me and hit me in the chest and roll across my kitchen lol. It was relatively small and still packed a punch so I shudder to think what that large Krasnogorsk motor would do flying across the room. If it is somehow stuck and won't unwind make sure you take safety precautions getting it loose.
@@movieman95 Thanks for the tips! I did think about that. I had a similar experience with the K3 and I was not even removing the motor. I was grabbing the winding lever when I lifted the top part where the film transport mechanism is and it the lever twisted my hand abruptly and with a good amount of power. It's good to mention this here so other people working on their cameras can be careful as well. Not a bad idea to wear protective glasses too.
OK OK BUT WHY Removing the loop formers?
As I mentioned on the video the loop former system includes thread. With time that thread looses it's strength, the loop formers don't move out to the right distance and the film touches the plastic parts scratching the film
Loop formers exist on other cameras like the Bolex and the Scoopic, but they use gears, so they don't cause any problems. Also the K3 has the same mechanism that was used on the K2 minus the cassette. The K2 didn't have loop formers. They added the loop former on that "newer" version to make it easier to load as the other cameras, but it didn't age well.