The leafsprings on a Kverneland should always be 70cm or 27.5 inches between the two "bolts" that hold it in place. The notches on the big kverneland wrench that i think i spoted on your plough match this messurment. Kverneland plougs are very common here in Sweden and in rest of scandinavia. Thanks for a good video!
Ah, I didn’t know you could use the wrench for that! I measured my pins and they are at 27-3/8” center to center, so not far off the recommended measurement . Thanks!
I’m thinking mine is from the 1970’s as that is when Dakon was importing and selling them around here. I wonder what year your plow is; the competition plows can usually be traced to a year when a world contest was hosted in the US or Canada, as Kverneland ships a bunch over for competitors to use and then they get sold.
@@everythingmoldboardplows mine technically started life as a hydrein MD but modified to be an ME (spacers added to make it 13in) and a few other odds and ends. The original tag is missing from the headstock
The position of the landside relative to the landside edge of the share is what determines how straight the plow pulls. The plow will push left until it is supported by the landside. I talk about it in my Coulter Adjusting video, but the ideal location can vary depending on how hard/soft the soil is, so I like to make the landside adjustable on my contest plows.
I just use 6011. I’ve only had a problem welding on an old blacksmith share that probably had a high carbon content. It would crack as it started to cool. I learned I needed to preheat it and then let it cool slowly.
The leafsprings on a Kverneland should always be 70cm or 27.5 inches between the two "bolts" that hold it in place. The notches on the big kverneland wrench that i think i spoted on your plough match this messurment. Kverneland plougs are very common here in Sweden and in rest of scandinavia. Thanks for a good video!
Ah, I didn’t know you could use the wrench for that! I measured my pins and they are at 27-3/8” center to center, so not far off the recommended measurement . Thanks!
great video thanks
Thank you.
I see your plough must be quite an age as it’s still badged “kvernelands” with an S. Same as my old hydrein competition plough
I’m thinking mine is from the 1970’s as that is when Dakon was importing and selling them around here. I wonder what year your plow is; the competition plows can usually be traced to a year when a world contest was hosted in the US or Canada, as Kverneland ships a bunch over for competitors to use and then they get sold.
@@everythingmoldboardplows mine technically started life as a hydrein MD but modified to be an ME (spacers added to make it 13in) and a few other odds and ends. The original tag is missing from the headstock
Ah, interesting.
What is the theoretical/ideal landside outboard face lateral location, relative to what?
The position of the landside relative to the landside edge of the share is what determines how straight the plow pulls. The plow will push left until it is supported by the landside. I talk about it in my Coulter Adjusting video, but the ideal location can vary depending on how hard/soft the soil is, so I like to make the landside adjustable on my contest plows.
What rod are you using to weld on landsides
I just use 6011. I’ve only had a problem welding on an old blacksmith share that probably had a high carbon content. It would crack as it started to cool. I learned I needed to preheat it and then let it cool slowly.
k is silent bub, good video otherwise
No, it is not. I’m 1/8 Norwegian so I should know. 😆 Plus, I’ve visited with employees from Kverneland and asked them how to pronounce the name.
@@everythingmoldboardplows hmm interesting