Sure is a lot of info. In all my years growing up and grandpa plowing he may have only adjusted the plow levers a handfuloftimes. He never adjusted the coulters. We had plowing competitions between the two of us just for bragging rights. He always beat me. He had 50yrs of experience against me on that ground, with the same equipment. I'm working on an Oliver plow with my brother, and an Oliver 770 to match his. Something to honor him and appreciate the time he spent with us.
I’ve seen some people get “hung up” and not want to do any adjusting because the plow is “doing good enough”. But, you’ll never find the right adjustment if you don’t experiment.
I’ve been watching your videos. I really enjoy these. We plow with Allis #2 and #4 plows and I’ve been trying to fine tune. These are really helpful! Thank you so much for your knowledge
I’ve got a WD45 and I’m tempted to find a #2 to build into a contest plow just to have an Allis outfit and be different, but there are only so many hours in the day. Thank you!
Boy you really schooled me on plowing I have plow every fall with my 8N Ford tractor with a 2 bottom Ferguson plow and I have never realized what the different ways that must be measured and adjusted and measured again but I do think a 3PH plow would be easier to adjust I even have the Ferguson plow Wrench 🔧 but anyway very good video thanks for making it!!
What is the model and vintage of the plow, and what is the role of the jointer in directing the turned soil? Great video. So much of what used to be common knowledge of operating older machinery has just been lost.
The plow is a John Deere model 44, built 1945-1957. The jointer cuts about 2 inches deep and 4 inches wide and peels of that corner of the furrow slice that would contribute to residue ending up on the surface between the furrow slices - the jointer aids in the goal of 100% residue coverage. There's not much directing of the furrow slice by the jointer; the goal is for the jointer to slice off that corner without negatively affecting the turning of the furrow slice. I've seen jointers set too deep and/or too close to the moldboard which can negatively affect the turning of the furrow slice, can choke up the moldboard and slow down residue flow, or actually cause residue to plug the jointer easier. Another thing to consider, when plowing grass, or anything with root structure to create body in the furrow slice, it is critically important for the jointer slice to get ripped away from the furrow slice (tangled stems can "hold it"), and the jointer slice needs to fall into the furrow bottom in the pocket where the previous furrow slice meets furrow bottom. If the jointer slice ends up anywhere else it can affect how well the furrow slice turns and seals up to the previous furrow slice.
Color of the tractor and the plow don't make much difference. I've plowed thousands of acres with IH plows, IH's Canton, Ill plant, the old P&O plant made MILLIONS of plows. We always pulled 3-14's in 3rd gear with the M, if it had stock gearing and oversize pistons probably ran in 4th gear. Neighbor suggested we try J.I. Case plows, he had sold his Deere plows and used Case plows. That was when Midwest plow harrow became a must have attachment, about 1968 /'69. We started doing LOTs of fall plowing about that time. As long as I could get the plow in the ground I would fall plow. Hit that fall plowed ground with a disk in the spring and it worked up like a sand box. Saved a pass over the field before planting, that's time And money for fuel. Big thing we struggled with was burying all the corn stalks. Chopping them helped control root worms and kept the plows from plugging as bad, and allowed the plow to bury more of the stalks. Chisel plows came later and seemed to pull harder and another pass across the field still needed in the spring.
Thanks for comment Dr. Evil! It is interesting to think about how much lower the average corn yields were 50, 60 years ago, even only 30 years ago, and they still had trouble getting that corn residue through those plows.
Good day from Ontario Boy we had sw-6 1 field we could not plow with 3 furrow , to dry & hilly. Alot of times use 2 furrow. Then we got 3 pt . & that made difference. Plough 3 furrow with 414. Thanks
It nice to see someone put out some information about how to setup these plows.
Thank you. I’ve got more videos in the works.
@@everythingmoldboardplows HM
Nothing hard about it ,,,,,,
Sure is a lot of info. In all my years growing up and grandpa plowing he may have only adjusted the plow levers a handfuloftimes. He never adjusted the coulters. We had plowing competitions between the two of us just for bragging rights. He always beat me. He had 50yrs of experience against me on that ground, with the same equipment. I'm working on an Oliver plow with my brother, and an Oliver 770 to match his. Something to honor him and appreciate the time he spent with us.
I’ve seen some people get “hung up” and not want to do any adjusting because the plow is “doing good enough”. But, you’ll never find the right adjustment if you don’t experiment.
I’ve been watching your videos. I really enjoy these. We plow with Allis #2 and #4 plows and I’ve been trying to fine tune. These are really helpful! Thank you so much for your knowledge
I’ve got a WD45 and I’m tempted to find a #2 to build into a contest plow just to have an Allis outfit and be different, but there are only so many hours in the day. Thank you!
I have a video on here if dad plowing with his Wc and #2. It’s 2-12”
Great videos. I would like to see a video on cover boards vs jointers.
Thanks! Hm, I’ll add that to the “finer points of plow adjustment” video I plan on making.
Boy you really schooled me on plowing I have plow every fall with my 8N Ford tractor with a 2 bottom Ferguson plow and I have never realized what the different ways that must be measured and adjusted and measured again but I do think a 3PH plow would be easier to adjust I even have the Ferguson plow Wrench 🔧 but anyway very good video thanks for making it!!
Thanks Keith!
Thanks for the information, you clearly know more than me!
Now do one on a mounted plow! Like a John Deere 812! 🙂
I would really like to do a video on a mounted plow also. I’ll try to get footage this fall.
Man you guys sure know your plow!
Thank you!
So amazing 😚
What is the model and vintage of the plow, and what is the role of the jointer in directing the turned soil? Great video. So much of what used to be common knowledge of operating older machinery has just been lost.
The plow is a John Deere model 44, built 1945-1957. The jointer cuts about 2 inches deep and 4 inches wide and peels of that corner of the furrow slice that would contribute to residue ending up on the surface between the furrow slices - the jointer aids in the goal of 100% residue coverage. There's not much directing of the furrow slice by the jointer; the goal is for the jointer to slice off that corner without negatively affecting the turning of the furrow slice. I've seen jointers set too deep and/or too close to the moldboard which can negatively affect the turning of the furrow slice, can choke up the moldboard and slow down residue flow, or actually cause residue to plug the jointer easier. Another thing to consider, when plowing grass, or anything with root structure to create body in the furrow slice, it is critically important for the jointer slice to get ripped away from the furrow slice (tangled stems can "hold it"), and the jointer slice needs to fall into the furrow bottom in the pocket where the previous furrow slice meets furrow bottom. If the jointer slice ends up anywhere else it can affect how well the furrow slice turns and seals up to the previous furrow slice.
Anymore than 7" and it's overkill
Correct. 6”-8” is the magic range.
@@everythingmoldboardplows yup
Any plans to do a series of completion videos like this with a mounted conventional plow?
I planned to make a how to adjust a mounted plow video last fall but winter came early for us.
First class video brother !
Thanks
Thanks!
Color of the tractor and the plow don't make much difference. I've plowed thousands of acres with IH plows, IH's Canton, Ill plant, the old P&O plant made MILLIONS of plows. We always pulled 3-14's in 3rd gear with the M, if it had stock gearing and oversize pistons probably ran in 4th gear. Neighbor suggested we try J.I. Case plows, he had sold his Deere plows and used Case plows. That was when Midwest plow harrow became a must have attachment, about 1968 /'69. We started doing LOTs of fall plowing about that time. As long as I could get the plow in the ground I would fall plow. Hit that fall plowed ground with a disk in the spring and it worked up like a sand box. Saved a pass over the field before planting, that's time And money for fuel. Big thing we struggled with was burying all the corn stalks. Chopping them helped control root worms and kept the plows from plugging as bad, and allowed the plow to bury more of the stalks. Chisel plows came later and seemed to pull harder and another pass across the field still needed in the spring.
Thanks for comment Dr. Evil! It is interesting to think about how much lower the average corn yields were 50, 60 years ago, even only 30 years ago, and they still had trouble getting that corn residue through those plows.
Good day from Ontario Boy we had sw-6 1 field we could not plow with 3 furrow , to dry & hilly.
Alot of times use 2 furrow. Then we got 3 pt . & that made difference. Plough 3 furrow with 414.
Thanks
When a farmer is plowing his fields, when done it should be impossible to tell how many bottom plow he was using.
Yes, correct. That is one facet of good plowing.
What model is this?
IHC M Farmall and a John Deere 44 plow.
Nice plow. Would go even better with a 2 cyl Johnny. !
Yep, I know it. I don’t like mixing colors either! I’m working on correcting that!
Beautiful soil. Way better than this Glendale clay in southwest Michigan.
Clay can be challenging, but fun when you do a nice job.