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Everything Moldboard Plows - John Gaard
Registrace 12. 04. 2021
Moldboard plowing instructional videos.
2024 USA National Plowing Contest - Arlington, South Dakota
The 2024 USA National Plowing Contest, sanctioned by the USA Plowing Organization, hosted by the South Dakota Ploughing Association, David and Elva Gaard, and Brian Erickson, held at Arlington, South Dakota on July 12-13, 2024.
For more information:
USAPO.org
Facebook.com/usaplowing
For more information:
USAPO.org
Facebook.com/usaplowing
zhlédnutí: 466
Video
2023 USA National Plowing Contest
zhlédnutí 3,5KPřed 3 měsíci
The 2023 USA National Plowing Contest, sanctioned by the USA Plowing Organization, hosted by the Pennsylvania Plowing Organization, held at Williams Grove, Pennsylvania on August 31 - September 1, 2023. For more information: USAPO.org Facebook.com/usaplowing
2023 Pennsylvania State Plowing Contest
zhlédnutí 3,8KPřed 10 měsíci
The Pennsylvania State Plowing Contest held near Williams Grove, PA on August 30, 2023. Small Plow, Open, and Antique classes are shown. USAPO.org Facebook.com/usaplowing
2023 South Dakota State Plowing Contest
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 11 měsíci
South Dakota state plowing contest held at the Prairie Village Threshing Jamboree at Madison, SD. USAPO.org facebook.com\USAplowing
How To: Identify, Repair, and Rebuild Plow Shares
zhlédnutí 19KPřed rokem
How to identify what kind of moldboard plow share you have, how to maintain the plow share by grinding on it, how to lightly rebuild the plow share by welding and grinding, and how to completely rebuild the plow share as a blacksmith would years ago. Facebook.com\usaplowing USAPO.org
How To: Plow a Contest Plot (and a field)
zhlédnutí 31KPřed rokem
Procedure for plowing a plot in a plowing contest. Beginners to the moldboard plow should also find this useful for plowing a field in general. Facebook.com/usaplowing USAPO.org
How To: Adjust the Moldboard Plow
zhlédnutí 33KPřed rokem
The steps I take to adjust the moldboard plow when I arrive at a plowing contest. Verifying hitch adjustment, straightness (orientation of the plow frame), coulters, and jointers. Facebook.com/usaplowing USAPO.org
How To: Moldboard Plow Landsides (and Kverneland Reset Springs)
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 2 lety
How to repair landsides on a moldboard plow and lessons learned about reset springs on a Kverneland plow. Facebook.com/usaplowing USAPO.org
How To: Adjust Rolling Coulters on a Moldboard Plow
zhlédnutí 36KPřed 2 lety
The finer points of adjusting rolling coulters on a moldboard plow are discussed. USAPO.org Facebook.com/usaplowing
How To: Adjust Your Moldboard Plow Hitch
zhlédnutí 26KPřed 2 lety
The physics of the moldboard plow is explained. Relates to all plow types: garden tractor, trailer, semi-mount, and three-point mounted. Vertical and horizontal hitch adjustments on a trailer plow are explained. Examples in the field of incorrect and correct hitch adjustment. USAPO.org facebook.com\USAplowing
Thank you for posting. Very much enjoyed the footage.
You are welcome! Thanks for the comment. Love your screen name!
John - I farm in Northern Illinois. Flat and black. Not many rocks. Found a Kverneland that would be a great fit. No auto resets. Are the shear pins going to drive me nuts? 6 bottom. The force to shear pin is greater than auto reset. Thanks for your expertise.
I think you'll be ok, but you know your ground better than me. Every time your chisel plow shank dances you have to ask yourself would the moldboard plow skim over that or would it trip the shear pin? And how often does that happen?
I really enjoy your videos. Do you think you could make a video walking around a competition plow and explaining the different parts? I noticed several unusual things on the minnie-mo 2 bottom in your Hitch Adjustment video. Maybe do an antique, and a modern competition plow. The modern ones look really strange to me, having only ever interacted with antiques
That’s a good idea, I’ll add it to the list!
we had minneapolis plows and john deere we parked the john deere because it pulled harder
I’ve heard that before. I wonder what bottom style each one of them had because that makes a huge difference in draft.
cool but they didnt have angle grinders back in the day.
Absolutely. And that’s why many jointers ended up in the scrap pile or hanging in a shed.
Just a heads up: with your content I feel confident that I can upset your championship victories for the foreseeable future… 🥇🏆🏁
Good! I welcome the competition! I’m here to share knowledge; not hold back secrets.
Diagrams were nice to see alignment. Would have been nice to see you actually show what you adjusted on the plow itself to fix the problems. Even if you just pointed out what adjustment you made.on the draw bar or the levers it would have been very helpful in understanding what need to be adjusted
Thanks for the feedback. I can show that in another video I have planned.
Does anyone use Allis #2 plows for competition? I’d love to try it sometime with ours. I have plenty of NOS shares and parts that I can keep the plows going for a few fun times
Yes, I can think of four competitors who use a #2 Allis Chalmers. The plow does good work and they lift super fast on the ends. I think AC has some intriguing plow bottoms that should work well.
@@everythingmoldboardplows ours are mostly common bottoms but our 12” ones are extremely great. And yes they lift very fast. I posted a couple videos of a couple of our plows I think
@@justinblain928 I see them. If there are holes in the end of the moldboard to bolt an extension to, that moldboard should do a decent job.
@@everythingmoldboardplows that’s the model 325 boards. We have a few sets of them. I know it sounds crazy but we never run the extensions. I might have to try that
Recal as a small boy plowing with a H and in sone cases the furrow wheel on the tractor would be set in to facilitate the proper pull line where tractor would auto matic go straight ahead
Yep, I do that with our M with a wide front; when it’s all set correctly you don’t need to steer.
Back in the day ww had a blacksmith sharpen our lays in a forge with heat and a hammer. He would forn a flat point on the front of the lay. Now they just use flat lays not as effective in keeping plow in the ground.
Agree. How To: Identify, Repair, and Rebuild Plow Shares czcams.com/video/b1iuiqzQ4BQ/video.html
Any experience welding a broken moldboard? Filler?
Yeah. The same procedure as welding on the share: preheat it a little bit and then allow it to cool slowly so that it doesn't crack. Use hard surfacing wire/rod also. Strategically placing your tack welds is important to keep the piece lined up correctly.
What about the piece of ground in the middle of the first and second run? Is it really turned around?
Good eye and good question. Yes, there’s about two furrow widths unplowed in the middle. On the farm, you could drive over to the right farther on the second run to plow more of it but then you are making a taller crown. The right answer is to plow an opening split like what is done in the Small Plow class: you plow a shallow round throwing out to create the opening split. Then you place the crown on top of that. Looks the same when you are done, but it’s all plowed underneath.
Would like to see a video with contest judge and score explanation. Also love your instructional videos!
That’s a good idea! I could capture that at the national contest this summer. Thanks!
@@everythingmoldboardplows is there anywhere on line I could find your score card? I’m curious if it’s the same as ours
@@Lackieestatesfarm check out our results from the 2023 contest to view the score sheets: usapo.org/downloads
@@everythingmoldboardplows thanks John
Great footage! We didn’t have a provincial match here in New Brunswick Canada last year, but it looks like we’re on track for one this year
Thanks!
Make a video on how The trip lever works?
Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks you much
👍
What are your thoughts on concave or disk coulters?
I don't have first-hand experience with them, but I think they have potential to help cover heavy LOOSE residue like corn stalks. But, I would imagine they would do enough ripping though that they would do a poor job in sod. I've heard complaints about them that they can add side draft to the plow and that their mounting arrangement can break easier depending on the design.
Looking for a replacement plow share like the second one you were discussing on the video. I’ve scoured the internet for this type and have come up empty. Anyway you could guide me to a dealer or store that sells this old type that I can purchase for replacement?
Its amazing how you can plough that straigh,t its like you are using GPRS.
That’s what the sighting poles are for. And then it takes constant work with the landing lever to keep it straight!
Where do you find the replacement point pieces for different shares, that you welded on the share?
Good day from Ontario Yes we had narrow shares here IH 8. Cast shares also. I dont remember much about them We live in Mennonite country They used walking & horse ploughs, I guess IH. 8 Alot of ih shares were sold here. Neighbour started making them to make cheaper So of them started buying old allis plows & put moldboard on IH tractor ploughs The last I heard allis shares were over $40. We had bought ford 101 3 pt. Share then were 10-12/pc. So neighbours started using cockshutt moldboards which were same or close to oliver raydex. Boy interesting. Thanks What about no-till?? So what would that share u rebuilt cost new & rebuilt?
A few years ago NEW blacksmith shares were around $150 each. Rebuilt, I don't know. Depends on how you value your time.
As a soil technician, plowing may be the most important job to prepare a field for the next crop. I like the way you're are doing it. Using an old plow, taking time to do it properly and getting the best possible results. Plowing needs to be done when soil is ready for it too. No rush, no plowing when raining and most of all, plowing in a way to make next step the easier possible. When farmers are plowing in bad conditions, it's because 1 : they badly manage their time or 2 : because weather is terrible. Most of the time, number 1 IS number 1.
Yes! Good quality of work decreases the effort needed for subsequent cultivations and decreases future weed pressure.
I have a IH 540 plow. Put new shares and shins on it. The shares tip curves down and extends out past the edge of the shin. landsides are worn. Question is, Do I weld on to them to get them to the edge of the shin? Or inline with the bottom tip of the new share? Right now the landside is 1/2- 3/4 inch in from the edge of the shin.
Boy I've tried everything except for the land sides and I can't get the dirt to move up hill enough. I should say I have a three point hitch three bottom John Deere
Two things come to mind: if the landsides are wore the plow will pull to the left. When it is pulling to the left, the plow bottom is rotated clockwise (looking from above) which is not going to roll the soil over the same as if the plow was pulling straight. Second, 90% of mounted plows I see run "nose down" in a misguided attempt to get the plow in the ground because of worn shares. Running with the nose down lifts the tails of the moldboards up, also not rolling the ground over as well as when the plow is oriented correctly.
Yes and yes. Make the rear landside as long as possible without contacting the tail wheel. @@stevespeltz9785
@@stevespeltz9785 I used mild steel this time with the hope that by hardsurfacing the cutting edge that it will last. Next time I will try a harder steel.
Do you think you could send a photo of how you constructed them?
You sure make plowing a field a hell of unnecessary work. I plowed many areas in my life and never needed to make it a nightmare.
The quality of work reflects how much effort was put in.
Running is a heck of a lot more work than walking, yet people still race.
Kinda a stupid comment
Neither of you two have made a single video on how you can do a better job. My goodness it’s easy to say how to do it better…
When is your book going to be published?? I would like to learn more about this.
This is it. I dreamed of writing a book for years and then stumbled on the ability to make videos. I think I can get the information out to a wider audience this way.
does the rear tire have to match the size of the furrow? I'm just starting to plow and I'm not great at it. People heckle me driving by. They yell "learn how to plow"' out their car windows. I find the trash clogs up my plow and then its all over the place. I thought I'd go get at drag type plow and see if I have any luck. I'm not sure how far that plow is supposed to be from the tire. I thought it would be about even. Anyhow, I'm watching your videos trying to learn. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're one of the most common sense people I have never met 😂
Thanks!
Up here in New Brunswick Canada it was too wet this fall for our plowing match. I have turned a few acres with the new plow for practice
That's too bad. Always next year!
Great video on plough shears! Bought a 3 bottom plough , all seemed ok! But did crazy things , couldn’t get it working! Then you pointed out the sled runner! Yup! A real bad shed runner on all 3 - ground them away back from the edge , ground edge to nearly sharp - plough works great now! And this was hard clay ploughing! Thank you! Jas!
Very informative, thank you. Curious do you know the average Rockwell hardness of a common share? I read in the comments that you were thinking about trying a higher carbon content for your splice. Was thinking an AR-400 would work well. I also saw in another video you were using some Stoody 965G. Good choice.
AR400 looks like a good place to start. I don't know the Rockwell hardness of other shares, but good OEM shares and moldboards are HARD, compared to some aftermarket pieces that I can scratch with a putty knife.
What is the model and vintage of the plow, and what is the role of the jointer in directing the turned soil? Great video. So much of what used to be common knowledge of operating older machinery has just been lost.
The plow is a John Deere model 44, built 1945-1957. The jointer cuts about 2 inches deep and 4 inches wide and peels of that corner of the furrow slice that would contribute to residue ending up on the surface between the furrow slices - the jointer aids in the goal of 100% residue coverage. There's not much directing of the furrow slice by the jointer; the goal is for the jointer to slice off that corner without negatively affecting the turning of the furrow slice. I've seen jointers set too deep and/or too close to the moldboard which can negatively affect the turning of the furrow slice, can choke up the moldboard and slow down residue flow, or actually cause residue to plug the jointer easier. Another thing to consider, when plowing grass, or anything with root structure to create body in the furrow slice, it is critically important for the jointer slice to get ripped away from the furrow slice (tangled stems can "hold it"), and the jointer slice needs to fall into the furrow bottom in the pocket where the previous furrow slice meets furrow bottom. If the jointer slice ends up anywhere else it can affect how well the furrow slice turns and seals up to the previous furrow slice.
Those tractors shur are pampered
Yep, and they are getting used rather than being show queens.
Volume control is poor Content is good
Great video John you should come back and plow with us at the IPM in Canada again.
Thanks Richard! Congrats on your finish at the IPM this year!
Did the Case have staggered tires left to right in the rear....or was the tread different enough that it looked like that to me?
I understand that sliding the left rear wheel out is to prevent wheel mark compaction which creates unmatched furrows. With wheel spacing set correctly, the wheel mark lands squarely on the furrow to be turned by the rear body on the next pass. If the ground is the right texture and moisture content, the wheel will compact that furrow and the turned furrow will be shiny, and the front body will turn a rougher looking furrow. Spreading that compaction out can alleviate that problem. Some guys use a spin-out wheel on the left rear, other guys will use a clamp-on dual that uses a tire of a slightly larger diameter.
Is it more easy to plow with a trailer plowed or 3 point plowed
Love it man love competing in those competitions it’s really fun to get to know those guys
Having never been to see a plowing contest live, you need to explain just what contestants are doing and how they do it and how they are judged. Otherwise it was enjoyable to watch the old machinery at work.
Does anyone make these anymore for JD 44?
What material is the bar stock made of
Just mild steel but next time I should try something with higher carbon content. The mild steel will get beat up easily, but I can weld a bead of that hard surfacing wire on it to protect it and build it back up.
I appreciate this video I’ve got a plow that clamps to a 1.5in square toolbar for a cat 0 3point. I know very little about it was given to me with a 1970s speedex 1630 garden tractor that had sat for 15 years, after a little touch up with a grinder I got it to sink down and turn in my clay soil for my 1 acre garden. I know it’s pretty worn and I’ve been trying to see if there are any parts available for it but the only number I have been able to find is on the moldboard textrak-10 but this has not lead me to much useful information if you or any of your viewers could provide any more info or even a direction to start looking I would greatly appreciate it, if it would help I could share (only with channel permission) a handle to my social media where there are some videos and pictures of it from last year.
I’m coming up empty. Hopefully someone can help you out! Go ahead and share a link to pictures of your plow.
Thank you for these plow videos! I’m working on getting my 1962 Wheel Horse dialed in for a plow day next month!
You are welcome! Good luck with the plow!
@@everythingmoldboardplows I’ll be test and tuning until then!
I have a 1956 2 bottom Farmall plow, the shares have been rebuilt and work great. There’s a steel piece on the bottom of the opposite side I think that’s called landside? That piece is getting worn down on the bottom to where the frame is exposed. Are they rebuildable as well? Do you have any tips to getting them set correctly?
Check out my other videos on landsides and coulters (where I also talk about landsides). Yes, depending on the plow bottom that you have, you might be able to buy them from the OEM yet or an aftermarket supplier. You can also fabricate them pretty easily. And, you can also just weld stuff on the landside to build it back up. Just depends on how pretty you want to make it. The biggest thing is renewing the landside somehow so that the plow pulls straight.
....wow....!!
I got a 10” plow that doesn’t work well at all and think this helped me out more then anything I’ve found so far, no one has ever mentioned a sled runner that I’ve seen but now I am going to check mine.
Glad it helped! The sled runner is a huge factor in getting the plow to suck down.
What beautiful soil wherever you are.
We were at Greenwald, Minnesota!
What model is this?
IHC M Farmall and a John Deere 44 plow.
Some great information thank you
You are welcome! Thanks for the comment!