I replaced my intake manifold on my 2001 F150 5.4L a few years ago with a Dorman and here is my story. I read somewhere that the aluminum crossover should be torqued to 18 ft lbs and those bolts are often loose. So when I got my manifold I checked the torque on the bolts that hold the aluminum crossover to the plastic manifold. Sure enough, they were loose-nowhere near 18 ft lbs. So, I started tightening them and checked torque with my brand new torque wrench. I thought they were feeling awfully tight but I kept going for 18 ft lbs and cracked both bolt holes on the front of the manifold. I called Dorman and they verified that the correct torque was 18 ft lbs, and since I bought it from Amazon I returned it. Checked the bolts on manifold no. 2 and they also were much looser than 18 ft lbs. So again I started tightening the bolts, although very carefully and checked the bolt holes each time I tightened a bolt. Then it happened again. This time I only broke one mounting hole and it was just cracked. I called Dorman again and reported what happened. Had a lengthy discussion with one of their engineers. He still claimed 18 ft lbs was correct. I epoxied the hole with JB weld and went ahead and put it on and it worked ok. I still had the old Ford manifold so I checked the torque on those crossover bolts and they were at 18 ft lbs. After looking at the Ford manifold I saw the difference. The Ford manifold has metal tube inserts inside of the plastic mounting holes so that the bolts are tightened against the metal inserts and do not crack the mounting holes. The Dorman does not have those inserts so when you tighten the crossover bolts the bolts tighten against plastic only and they can't take the pressure. I called Dorman back and explained all this to them, and told them the assemblers on the production line were not torquing those bolts to 18 ft lbs or they would be breaking them too. So that means if you check those crossover bolts just check them by hand to make sure they are snug and let it go at that. I am guessing most guys are not checking them at all and they just put the manifold on and it works. Sorry for the length, but thought somebody might find this useful.
Thank you for the video. My 2003 Ford F-150 5.4 L has 297,000 miles on it. My mechanic notice leaking oil on valve cover gaskets and antifreeze at the exact place you shown. He told me what needs to be done but now I know. Costing me Big bucks to get that fixed.
You could lose heat by leaking coolant, he just repaired the truck before this happened. If the coolant gets low enough, it will not cycle through the heater core properly which will cause cold air from the heater, especially when you are not moving. Also, when you replace the intake, since you will get some coolant into the intake ports, you should absolutely change the oil and filter just to ensure that any coolant that may have sat on top of the Pistons and leaked down into the crankcase will be out of there. Any other coolant will blow out of the exhaust once you start it. Thanks for the video, I have a coolant leak that may be internal. Doesn't look like the intake can cause my problem though.
Jesus Christ. What the hell was Ford thinking? Nice job man. Great video. Currently have a 5.0 with the T connector leak. Stumbled on this video searching for a solid solution for that leak.
Same problem..it helped me! Installed a dorman today..took from 10 to 830!! I took it slow..used colored tape to help.me rem where all lines go. Yah..cleaning the heads took me a solid hour if not more. I left coil packs in too..turned them a bit. This is a job but it can be done..used a dorman intake..2001 f150 crew 5.4 it runs smooth no leaks! Wheww beer 30 for sure this can be done men..just take a day and go slow..
had to laugh when you mentioned the worst part is leaning over the damn thing the whole time!! I feel your pain.. im on day SIX! of fixing a blown spark plug and since i got into her i decided to change the manifold gaskets all sparkplugs and ignition coils....
Great job Wow you took your time and patience and with our lord Jesus Christ hands you got it done. I have a similar job coming soon from a 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4 engine and know that I see how much time and patience it takes Iam willing to my SUV soon thank you for sharing and taking the time to do this vid it did encourage me. God blessed
took me 3 hrs to replace intake an plenum gaskets, thermostat, plugs an coil packs, good times, whoever came up with this concept should been kicked in the balls
Our 01 is leaking i the rear. Dripping down the starter and then middle rear seal. Hopefully this shoots me in the right direction ! I cant see anything from too or bottom
Great video! But... Replace.That.Damn. Tube! That tube off the back of the water pump might look good today, but it could leak tomorrow. With all the work that it takes to pull the manifold, I wouldn't want to do it twice. They are notorious for corroding so it might look good from the outside but it probably getting thin.
im doing this job now . if you want to make this job a little easier on yourself remove the clutch fan and fan shroud then climb in . there should be room to get your feet between the radiator and the steering linkages
Great video for DIYers. I'm looking to tackle the same project soon. Could you please post the amazon part you purchased, if you still have the info or link?
Great video my 2000 expedition is doing the same thing nasty fish antifreeze smell and leak. But im just gonna go to the shop way to much work . Thanks for ur video.
I gotta a similar leak on my 2003 expedition some moisture behind the alternator area....minimal coolant loss at this point my vehicle has 188k on it...I put some bars leak and it appears to have slowed it down to hardly anything I never had a coolant smell thankfully if it gets worse it will go to the shop.
Oh just an update I drove from about 200 miles away from home and before i left i topped it off the overflow tank with some distilled water and checked when I arrived home and no fluid loss according to the overflow so the radiator bars leak is working some at this point something I will keep an eye on.
I turn wrenches for a living and six days ago I got out of my '01 F-150 after lunch break, smelled coolant and thought "F*&%. I know what failed. In my case the plastic intake itself had split. I'm doing the intake, plugs, plug boots, water pump and belt while it's all apart. Was going to replace the coolant bypass tube but the Chinese Dorman tube I got doesn't even come close to fitting. Thankfully the original tube is in decent condition and just needed some new o-rings, a little rust removal and a fresh coat of paint. The engine has 174, 000 on it so I guess I can't complain. Enjoyed the video.
When I replaced my manifold I took the opportunity to replace the tube also. I got mine from Ford and I don't remember the price but I don't think it was too bad, and it fit.
my coolnet is leaking from the bottom , its like its detached from the bottom , its like some thin brass metal pipe or something that got detached from somewhere or got unscrewed , I think its my steering wheel fluid not my coolent
Thank you for this video! I too have a coolant leak on the same engine, but it appears it's coming from the back of the motor it's wet back there and it seems like it's leaking down and onto the exhaust and burning up because it's not leaking onto the ground. I also see fluid building up in that cabinet under the intake manifold from time to time. I'm interested in that steel tube that's underneath the intake manifold and how to bypass it, do you by any chance have a link to the videos where people have done that? If not I will try and look it up. I think it's coming from that steel pipe or that heater core hose that connects to it now that I've watched your video.
I have an 2003 Ford F-150 XLT Exhaust Leak, High Idle in Park and now I’m Smelling Antifreeze and likely vacuum line replacements. The exhaust may be something I should tackle if I decide to replace the manifold I heard exhaust leaks are hard but once I start pulling it apart I’ll find out more
Excellent Video, The rat or mouse, under the manifold, that was too much,,,so how do they get in like that? and how do they keep from becoming rat or mouse bake? so funny, still difficult to believe. None the less, great Video, and I think most of us, who are going to have to do this, appreciate the way the film was done, very professional indeed. Tom, Bird City KS.
You lose hp with the dorman. It’s visibly smaller than the OEM. Self tapping screws, I don’t like em. But the dorman is reliable. And yes. Laying on top of everything is the only bad part about doing this job.
I have a bad catalytic converter on my 2000 ford expedition could I still change my intake manifold or do I have to change my catalytic converter first before I work on my intake manifold
I've got a small leak on the drivers side from that aluminum crossover, which slowly fills the #5 spark plug well and causes a misfire. Might be doing this repair soon myself... (dry heave) Good music to boot.
I have the same issue and trying to decide between using he the Dorman intake or spending the extra money for a Ford intake. Its been several month since this was posted. Wanted to know if you have experienced any issues from the Dorman intake?
If you live in Georgia or would love to come to Georgia and help me out with my 1998 f150 4.6 liter engine, that would be the best thing that ever happened to me. I would greatly appreciate it. I'll pay you. If not I'll figure something else out?
No, never lost heat, just started smelling coolant every once in a while and then one day it just started gushing coolant, knew it was time to investigate. Wasn't too bad a job, the worse part was leaning way over the front end to reach everything!
Hi Nick, at 14:53 you can see a lot of coolant that has pooled in the valley on top of the engine. I seem to have a similar problem, but can't determine where the coolant is leaking from. Were you able to determine the source of the leak? You mentioned the steel tube there looked ok. Thanks
He pressurized the cooling system through the heater core hose. He put just a little bit of air to it and exposed the leak which was the plastic intake itself.
@@Nasty434Z Thanks for the reply. I've replaced my intake manifold recently, so I'm pretty sure that's not the leak, but maybe I'll try his method of finding it.
I replaced my intake manifold on my 2001 F150 5.4L a few years ago with a Dorman and here is my story. I read somewhere that the aluminum crossover should be torqued to 18 ft lbs and those bolts are often loose. So when I got my manifold I checked the torque on the bolts that hold the aluminum crossover to the plastic manifold. Sure enough, they were loose-nowhere near 18 ft lbs. So, I started tightening them and checked torque with my brand new torque wrench. I thought they were feeling awfully tight but I kept going for 18 ft lbs and cracked both bolt holes on the front of the manifold. I called Dorman and they verified that the correct torque was 18 ft lbs, and since I bought it from Amazon I returned it. Checked the bolts on manifold no. 2 and they also were much looser than 18 ft lbs. So again I started tightening the bolts, although very carefully and checked the bolt holes each time I tightened a bolt. Then it happened again. This time I only broke one mounting hole and it was just cracked. I called Dorman again and reported what happened. Had a lengthy discussion with one of their engineers. He still claimed 18 ft lbs was correct. I epoxied the hole with JB weld and went ahead and put it on and it worked ok. I still had the old Ford manifold so I checked the torque on those crossover bolts and they were at 18 ft lbs. After looking at the Ford manifold I saw the difference. The Ford manifold has metal tube inserts inside of the plastic mounting holes so that the bolts are tightened against the metal inserts and do not crack the mounting holes. The Dorman does not have those inserts so when you tighten the crossover bolts the bolts tighten against plastic only and they can't take the pressure. I called Dorman back and explained all this to them, and told them the assemblers on the production line were not torquing those bolts to 18 ft lbs or they would be breaking them too. So that means if you check those crossover bolts just check them by hand to make sure they are snug and let it go at that.
I am guessing most guys are not checking them at all and they just put the manifold on and it works. Sorry for the length, but thought somebody might find this useful.
Charlie Wilson put some tread locker and snug them down what I would of done dam Dorman.
About to replace mine, thanks for the heads up.
Could you not just use the inserts in the dorman
Get one from Ford. More money, less pain...
On
7 years later and I'm having the exact same leak as you did... Thanks for the video
thank you for your video, i have the same leak that started last week. I had no idea that it was going to be that much work to fix.
Thanks for showing up
Thank you for the video. My 2003 Ford F-150 5.4 L has 297,000 miles on it. My mechanic notice leaking oil on valve cover gaskets and antifreeze at the exact place you shown. He told me what needs to be done but now I know. Costing me Big bucks to get that fixed.
You could lose heat by leaking coolant, he just repaired the truck before this happened. If the coolant gets low enough, it will not cycle through the heater core properly which will cause cold air from the heater, especially when you are not moving. Also, when you replace the intake, since you will get some coolant into the intake ports, you should absolutely change the oil and filter just to ensure that any coolant that may have sat on top of the Pistons and leaked down into the crankcase will be out of there. Any other coolant will blow out of the exhaust once you start it. Thanks for the video, I have a coolant leak that may be internal. Doesn't look like the intake can cause my problem though.
That sensor under the intake manifold is an anti-knock sensor.
Jesus Christ. What the hell was Ford thinking? Nice job man. Great video. Currently have a 5.0 with the T connector leak. Stumbled on this video searching for a solid solution for that leak.
True statement about climbing in ,great video 👌
I love your video it help me to fix my truck thank u God bless you
Thanks for sharing this! I have the same year f150 and the same exact leak. Followed this video and I was able to fix it.
Same problem..it helped me! Installed a dorman today..took from 10 to 830!! I took it slow..used colored tape to help.me rem where all lines go. Yah..cleaning the heads took me a solid hour if not more. I left coil packs in too..turned them a bit. This is a job but it can be done..used a dorman intake..2001 f150 crew 5.4 it runs smooth no leaks! Wheww beer 30 for sure this can be done men..just take a day and go slow..
What is the part number
Great video,i couldn't find a video that showed where the tube went to.
had to laugh when you mentioned the worst part is leaning over the damn thing the whole time!! I feel your pain.. im on day SIX! of fixing a blown spark plug and since i got into her i decided to change the manifold gaskets all sparkplugs and ignition coils....
Yea, I snipped that off, took the alternatoroff, and put 5/ 8. The heater core hose reran it around my block and plugged her back up.
Great video
Great video!
I have the same leak happening and i bought a replacement manifold and i'm in the process of replacing it now!
You did good!
Thanks for the video I now got to do mine and I hope I can do it
Great job Wow you took your time and patience and with our lord Jesus Christ hands you got it done. I have a similar job coming soon from a 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4 engine and know that I see how much time and patience it takes Iam willing to my SUV soon thank you for sharing and taking the time to do this vid it did encourage me. God blessed
Jesus hands. My new nickname.
took me 3 hrs to replace intake an plenum gaskets, thermostat, plugs an coil packs, good times, whoever came up with this concept should been kicked in the balls
Anthony Pitts u r fast.. All day here
Nothing is easy on a new car so go back to the seventy and you problems are over
3 hours is about average. Totally agree about kicking these dam engineers in the balls. Ridiculous.
Good work on your Finding that is truth
Thanks for sharing 👍
What did you use to clean your mating surfaces, and how did you ensure not to get junk into your intake ports while cleaning them?
Our 01 is leaking i the rear. Dripping down the starter and then middle rear seal. Hopefully this shoots me in the right direction ! I cant see anything from too or bottom
Great video! But... Replace.That.Damn. Tube! That tube off the back of the water pump might look good today, but it could leak tomorrow. With all the work that it takes to pull the manifold, I wouldn't want to do it twice. They are notorious for corroding so it might look good from the outside but it probably getting thin.
im doing this job now . if you want to make this job a little easier on yourself remove the clutch fan and fan shroud then climb in . there should be room to get your feet between the radiator and the steering linkages
Great video for DIYers. I'm looking to tackle the same project soon. Could you please post the amazon part you purchased, if you still have the info or link?
the plenum, recommend change that gasket also why it's out
Great video my 2000 expedition is doing the same thing nasty fish antifreeze smell and leak. But im just gonna go to the shop way to much work . Thanks for ur video.
I gotta a similar leak on my 2003 expedition some moisture behind the alternator area....minimal coolant loss at this point my vehicle has 188k on it...I put some bars leak and it appears to have slowed it down to hardly anything I never had a coolant smell thankfully if it gets worse it will go to the shop.
@@Wes1487 yeah i already bought my exhaust maniful so im just gonna replace it .
@@213segura8 good luck on the install...hopefully when done it is not something you will need to do again.
Oh just an update I drove from about 200 miles away from home and before i left i topped it off the overflow tank with some distilled water and checked when I arrived home and no fluid loss according to the overflow so the radiator bars leak is working some at this point something I will keep an eye on.
@@Wes1487 yeah for sure fingers 🤞
I have the same exact leak. I can't get away with just a gasket? or do I need to buy a new manifold?
I turn wrenches for a living and six days ago I got out of my '01 F-150 after lunch break, smelled coolant and thought "F*&%. I know what failed. In my case the plastic intake itself had split. I'm doing the intake, plugs, plug boots, water pump and belt while it's all apart. Was going to replace the coolant bypass tube but the Chinese Dorman tube I got doesn't even come close to fitting. Thankfully the original tube is in decent condition and just needed some new o-rings, a little rust removal and a fresh coat of paint. The engine has 174, 000 on it so I guess I can't complain. Enjoyed the video.
When I replaced my manifold I took the opportunity to replace the tube also. I got mine from Ford and I don't remember the price but I don't think it was too bad, and it fit.
my coolnet is leaking from the bottom , its like its detached from the bottom , its like some thin brass metal pipe or something that got detached from somewhere or got unscrewed , I think its my steering wheel fluid not my coolent
Thank you for this video! I too have a coolant leak on the same engine, but it appears it's coming from the back of the motor it's wet back there and it seems like it's leaking down and onto the exhaust and burning up because it's not leaking onto the ground. I also see fluid building up in that cabinet under the intake manifold from time to time. I'm interested in that steel tube that's underneath the intake manifold and how to bypass it, do you by any chance have a link to the videos where people have done that? If not I will try and look it up. I think it's coming from that steel pipe or that heater core hose that connects to it now that I've watched your video.
I have an 2003 Ford F-150 XLT Exhaust Leak, High Idle in Park and now I’m Smelling Antifreeze and likely vacuum line replacements. The exhaust may be something I should tackle if I decide to replace the manifold I heard exhaust leaks are hard but once I start pulling it apart I’ll find out more
High idle in park might be the idle valve on back of intake
The *sensor* is a knock sensor. Great video
Is that the one in the valley?
THATS A FUEL INJECTOR. SO, NO
While your in there you should replace the timing chain.
The tube under the intake will rust eventually. Kind of just looking at you. Great job though.
You didnt show how to take the bolts off and how and where they go back on.
Excellent Video, The rat or mouse, under the manifold, that was too much,,,so how do they get in like that? and how do they keep from becoming rat or mouse bake? so funny, still difficult to believe. None the less, great Video, and I think most of us, who are going to have to do this, appreciate the way the film was done, very professional indeed. Tom, Bird City KS.
I had a mouse nest too and acorns
You lose hp with the dorman. It’s visibly smaller than the OEM. Self tapping screws, I don’t like em. But the dorman is reliable. And yes. Laying on top of everything is the only bad part about doing this job.
Those mice are dead, sippin on antifreeze🤣🤣🤣
I have a bad catalytic converter on my 2000 ford expedition could I still change my intake manifold or do I have to change my catalytic converter first before I work on my intake manifold
Avery Cushenberry you can do either one first it doesn't matter. Converter is going to cost quite a bit more than the intake though
I've got a small leak on the drivers side from that aluminum crossover, which slowly fills the #5 spark plug well and causes a misfire. Might be doing this repair soon myself... (dry heave) Good music to boot.
He shoved paper towels with a screwdriver where he could and then he put a hose on the shop vac and sucked out what he could.
Which symptoms did the vehicle have?
What was the sensor in the manifold valley you cleaned out? Appreciate your video.
knock sensor
did beautiful job on cleaning it
Anthony Pitts "
Anthony Pitts was in
2007..4.6. had replace manifold...motorcraft ....cost total $900 .
I have the same issue and trying to decide between using he the Dorman intake or spending the extra money for a Ford intake. Its been several month since this was posted. Wanted to know if you have experienced any issues from the Dorman intake?
Dave T This is actually my dads video, he has had no problems at all with this intake
Thanks
If you live in Georgia or would love to come to Georgia and help me out with my 1998 f150 4.6 liter engine, that would be the best thing that ever happened to me. I would greatly appreciate it. I'll pay you. If not I'll figure something else out?
DID YOU LOOSE HEAT IN THE CAB FROM THIS??
No, never lost heat, just started smelling coolant every once in a while and then one day it just started gushing coolant, knew it was time to investigate. Wasn't too bad a job, the worse part was leaning way over the front end to reach everything!
What is the part called that you replaced?
Intake manifold
Hi Nick, at 14:53 you can see a lot of coolant that has pooled in the valley on top of the engine. I seem to have a similar problem, but can't determine where the coolant is leaking from. Were you able to determine the source of the leak? You mentioned the steel tube there looked ok. Thanks
I'll ask my dad...this is his video but he doesn't have a youtube account
He pressurized the cooling system through the heater core hose. He put just a little bit of air to it and exposed the leak which was the plastic intake itself.
@@Nasty434Z Thanks for the reply. I've replaced my intake manifold recently, so I'm pretty sure that's not the leak, but maybe I'll try his method of finding it.
knock sensor
Did it also cause your windows to fog up?
I think my heater is leaking.
I don’t think so. This was actually my dad that made this video years ago. If you’re windshield is fogging up, it’s definitely the heater core
@@Nasty434Z that’s what I’m thinking too. F150 2009 requires dashboard removal so it’s beyond my skills. Going to pay $1200 Canadian. K-Seal didn’t help.
@@CraigSmith1 Yeah that’s a major job, I wouldn’t do it myself either
Why not bypass the pipe with an exterior hose?
Video quality is terrible