Extreme Fuse Test: 100 Amp ANL vs. 150 Amp Overload! Over 800 degrees??
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- čas přidán 17. 02. 2024
- In this video 100 amp ANL fuses are tested by pulling 100 amps, 150 amps, and 250 amps through them.
This video is a must-watch for anyone seriously into car audio -- pulling a fuse's rated current or slightly above causes some SERIOUS heat.
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Amazing video, well done 👍 you know what would be very interesting? To do the same "slow burn" test but using asoldered lug nut instead of a crimp. As we still havd a lot of people believing that soldering lug nuts it better...
I think it got plenty enough time melt solder, actually.. might surprise folks to see the wire pop out lol.
It’s hilarious (but annoying) that so many people didn’t believe the fuse itself would heat up at rated current without loose lugs etc.
It’s like they’re in denial about how a damn fuse works.
Yeah.. folks on Facebook groups always like to blame the fuse holder..
this misunderstanding is that a fuses job is to limit current and its not. a fuse is for short circuit protection. this is a good example on why the fuse is suppose to be rated 30% higher than the expected draw. short that wire out and the fuse will do its job, breakers are preferable to a fuse in limiting current as they trip with a heat load. great video.
I didn’t know it was heat that caused a breaker to trip, that’s good info.
And yeah; at the end of the video even with a 250a current the fuse blew almost immediately with not a lot of excess heat generated.
Fuse is to blow ABoVE the rated certainly but these are just junk clones.. real EATON little fuses work much better but are to expensive for a youtube vid.
@@dogdipstick I actually have several hundred ceramic fuses and fiberglass fuses on their way. (Fiberglass is the style you typically see labeled with "made in mexico" sold by blue sea system.)
Fuses are thermal devices as well. If it doesn't have a microprocessor or some complex circuitry, it has no idea how much current is passing through it. It just melts when it gets hot. And breakers have bimetal strips that respond to heat at different rates, which causes them to move and pull the trip device.
definitely eye opening, thanks for taking the time to do this
I don't know the results of a lot of these before filming..I was genuinely surprised when things started eclipsing 800.
its a fake fuse real ones dont do this.
Excellent video audio commentary demo editing humbleness honesty
Many lessons learned
This just goes to show how continuous versus dynamic music current draw is so much different. If this was music, you can push 1500-2000w permanently without any issues (I do it in my car every day on a 120 amp fuse) but continuous is a whole other ballgame. Music is much easier than a continuous load!
Yep! I can heat a fuse to over 300F, but it drops over 100 degrees in only a couple of seconds with no (or much less) current flowing through it.
I dont think you understand power that much.
@@dogdipstickTime Vs current curves are very real. With breakers it’s called the “trip curve” but basically the overcurrent protection won’t react immediately to a small overload.
The fuses usually start to trip at 1.35 times the rated current. Cheap ANL fuses start to smoke. I made a detailed video about megafuse fuses, unfortunately in German.
czcams.com/video/KgK6XCGayz0/video.html
When wiring a building, you typically want the wiring and fuse to both be 25% bigger than the continuous load. Or thinking the other way around, you only use a given type of wire for continuous loads up to 80% of its rating.
For example if you have a boiler which draws 24A you can use 10AWG and a 30A breaker or fuse. But if you have a boiler that takes 26 amps that’s more than 80% of 30A so you should assemble it with #8 wire (rated 40A) and a 40A breaker.
I agree and that's what I recommend for folks. 400a of current? Use a 500a fuse and make sure your wiring is good for it.
Im an Engineer, but for some folks thinking that a zero wire connection could be the bottle neck of that tiny strip of metal in the fuse, is ridiculous.
Wow Even the glue from the heat shrink on the left cable. Started to heat up and melt down the copper lug
Yeah I figured out when I was watching the video that had to be what was stinking so bad.
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Buy a Ms-1 Overload Relay And Circuit Breaker Tester and come back to us.
Lol.
Looks expensive.
That’s crazy. It should have blown at 300
It held over 800 for 15 minutes which is what's crazy.. That's hot enough to catch many things on fire almost instantly.
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all this testing to figure out what. what anyone with common sense should already know lmao.
I don’t think it’s common sense that your fuse is going to turn into a 800F fire hazard by pulling too little to blow it quickly vs enough to pop it.
Gotta love the know it alls in basshead on a budget. That group is trash. They are slow burn filaments and this is why using the proper fuse size is important. Brandon Buck is a smart guy, but has nothing to do with fuse holder. Nobody is using a fuse rated at rms or constant amperage draw, thats why we fuse to the wire size and MAX amoerage capacity. 1,000w rms amp is NEVER going to produce 100a of draw.
Some are good folks! And yes, fuse to the maximum wire capacity is exactly right. If you think you'll be pulling near the wires maximum current - use more wire to keep it under 60%-70%.
@@GloweIndustries yea some are good Seth, but majority of that group is trash talking nut hugging morons.
Its a fake fuse too.
@@dogdipstick how do you figure? You do realize anl fuses are slow burn fuses. And most fuses can handle around 20a more or 10-20% more amperage then they are rated.