Overlander Remote Travel Spares Kit
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- Overlander Remote Travel Spares Kit.
In this video I show you which spare I carry and why. I also seek some pro tips and suggestions from a mechanic.
JUMP LINKS HERE:
0:01 Intro
0:46 Nuts and Bolts
1:31 Filters
2:00 Wheel Bearing Do you need them?
2:50 Wheel Nuts & Studs
4:02 Belts
5:10 Hoses & Pipes
5:42 Fluids
8:05 Differential Oil
9:48 Brake Fluid
11:15 Aerosol Heros
12:32 OEM parts vs Aftermarket cheap parts
13:05 Electrical Spares
13:42 Mechanics Tips and suggestions Parts
18:09 Mechanics Tips and suggestions Fluids
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Something I have been told by an old RAEME guy (military mechanic) was to provide your spare belts, filters, fluids etc to your mechanic when you get a service, and then buy the replacement parts as your new spares. That keeps your spare parts newer and within their life-spans.
I really like that idea......
Great tip
Exactly right, your rotating your parts out AND you are controlling what goes in your car.
Aaron Kratzmann has
Yes i was thinking flushes ur breaks with ur spare fluid to keep things clean and replace ur fluid often
i recommend tow around a parts vehicle with you so you can swap out any parts you need
Lol thats how I feel because at a certain point you can't bring everything
I solved the problem just didn’t buy a Toyota again all good now
Keep up on maintenance and you will only need half of this, knowing your vehicle and what is prone to breaking and knowing what lines and trails you can handle makes a huge difference when it comes to needing spares
And then , the Random , totally unexpected situation occurs , and here's you , 1500 km into trackless wilderness , with a Shattered Thinga-ma-bob , no Sat Phone and you FORGOT to carry an EPIRB . Now you get a Crash Course in " How the Natives Live " , or , simply Perish .
I would add:
- propshaft universal joint(s)
- relays (perhaps, can always steal from a non-essential system)
- Any electrical sensors that are small to carry but make you go nowhere if they fail (Crank Angle Sensor for me).
For any spare you take, make sure you have practiced doing the change at home, in the comfort of not-in-the-middle-of-nowhere.
- Remove and refit your serpentine belt.
- Remove, inspect, refit alternator / replace brushes.
- Know if you need any special tools for filters / bearings etc.
For many things if you ware worried about the part, replace it and keep the old one as a spare.
Another bonus of windscreen cleaner in a spray bottle is it means you can keep drinkable water in your washer reservoir for emergency use.
Ronny mate, you're a legend.these videos you make are by far the best source of 4x4 info out there. We appreciate it mate, keep it up !!
Yes, Ronny is a very thoughtful chap.
I like to have in my spares box a bicycle inner tube. think about it's a long piece of rubber that can be cut to size to stop rattles, wrapped tightly around any size hose, or fuel line that's sprung a leak, can be used as bungee cord, insulate a chafed cable or hose. If you know how to use it it's magic. and tried and tested in the african bush.
yup, i carry a car inner tube on my bicycle for the same reasons.
I run a 7.3 International turbo diesel. Just made a 7,800 mile trip (all paved). I brought 8 gallons of oil and two oil filters (needed two changes on the trip), spare fuel filter (used that when the seal on the filter bowl blew), spare air filter (used when the restriction gauge and idiot light said change it (and no restriction shown at start of trip), and used the long logging chain when the campground grass proved to have soft clay underneath. The spare fuel and air filters were replaced at the next shopping opportunity and it sure was nice having them on the rig. I could have gotten a tow but in the field...MANDATORY GEAR.
I could have ignored the air filter warnings until the next town (not nice to that million mile engine) and I probably could have gotten the fuel filter O ring to reseal but it sure was nice to be able to go into my kit and pull out a brand spankin new one.
I carry air, fuel, and oil filters, spare oil, new serp belt, brake fluid, windshield washer fluid, electrical repair kit and digital multimeter, fuses of course, logging chain, short heavy chain for finding an anchor point, tow strap, 20k nylon cargo strap (has some stretch), tire chains, 8T bottle jack, reflective triangles kit (I'm usually on asphalt), 4 gallons of diesel in a fuel can, two folding shovels, 5 gallon water jug (empty. drinking water in bottles and 40 gallons in the trailer tanks), electric chain saw (with bar oil, sharpener, batteries and charger), HAM radio gear to "reach out" and call in help.
And of course WD40, duct tape (gorilla tape actually), zip ties, mechanics wire, AND GLOVES.
I carry a Hanes Manual as well, takes up hardly any room and will have diagrams and step by steps for most if not all the things you might have to fix on the track.
As a retired mechanic I find Haynes, Clymer, and prtty much all the other manuals out there to be about worthless. If you're serious, get the shop manual from the manufacturer and get it in hard copy because batteries in your electronic devices can fail.
Some heavy gauge wire to tie up loose or hanging parts. Duck tape, clean rags and hand wash solution (just to keep you clean when you get back in your vehicle)
@@kg7tuo999 I was going to say Haynes manuals are pretty worthless because they are so generic and universal for a wide range of years/engines on the vehicle.
@@tylerdubois9020 Going to say same, but the old Gregory manuals were better, but I believe they were taken over by Haynes, Stuffed!
The attention to detail in this video is phenomenal! Keep it up Ronny! Bloody legend
Watched the vid.... (Good stuff Ronny) Read the comments and recommended additions (Good stuff CZcamsrs). Just gotta tell the wife there's gonna be no room left for her once I've packed all the spare parts and tools! 😎
Great help, thank you. Would you and you mechanic friends consider making a video on pre-trip mechanical checklist? (What fluids, filters, brushes, nuts&bolts to check, tighten, refill ect) to best avoid needing to use this stuff. Thanks again.
Good tip on the brake fluid, i had years old ones sitting in shed. Bin now.
If you have a vehicle with a serpentine belt, I would suggest spare idler pulley assemblies. Sometimes the bearings are replaceable on them. But Most vehicles these days the bearings are part of the idler pulley itself. (atleast they are on american cars) Its saved my ass and others a few times having them.
The point about the random shops which don't care how they put your wheels on is definitely true, I had a shop torque my lugs to like 200+ ft lbs. It took an 8ft long breaker bar just to get it loose, and that was after snapping a bunch of sockets
Excellent! Shock bushings can come in handy too.
That was very informative about the brake fluid! I had this happen to me on my old laser as the car got hot I wasn't able to disengage the clutch. I ended up changing the fluid and it was fine, but this totally makes sense as to the reason why.
If drivers change their car battery very three years even though it is still operational, they will avoid a flat battery due to its age. It is well worth the extra $30 to $40 over 4 years. Changing all hoses, thermostat and belts at 8 years and having the radiator checked and flushed out can prevent overheating and ‘cooking’ the engine. $300 to $400 spent on maintenance can save on towing cost, engine repairs, accomodation costs and/or car hire when stranded in the bush. The time to replace worn tyres and brake pads is before a big trip.
I always carry bug detergent to add to the windscreen washer water and I have a Squeegee wiper to ensue the windscreen stays clean. I replace the windscreen wiper rubbers very year with factory parts, as I find generic rubbers scratch the windscreen. The local garage mechanic will lie and say the wipers are correct for the car, so buy the part from the dealer yourself, and save your windscreen.
An ounce of prevention saves a pound of cure.
Just finished, another great video Ronny.
Best timing, Ive been looking to get a spares kit together.
Spot on video Rhony. Loads of good points in that one.
Contact cleaner, if you have rubbing alcohol in your first aid kit that can be used to clean electrical contacts. (Cheap toothbrush in your tool box as a scrubbing brush)
Fluids and spares, when you get your car serviced simply use them for that service and ask the garage to order you new stuff to replace what they have used.
It's all very well to carry all that stuff but if you don't know one end of a screw driver from another it's pointless, (all the gear, no idea) do a basic car maintenance course or ask guy down the road who tinkers with old cars to run a few things by you. If possible carry a Haynes type manual as well.
We watch this video before every trip just as a check list! THANKS RONNIE
I have a 4runner, but I also tow another 4runner when I overland for spare parts
Thanks for the tips, Man. Been enjoying your videos. Subscribed.
my recommendation for window washer is a mr. clean magic eraser. works really well. bring one or two with you and with some water, it will break down any grease or bugs on your window.
I found Shampoo (the harsher the better) does wonders for removing bugs.
just saw the video very informative. I add a length of thick walled pipe wit a large enough diameter to use as a cheater bar you can cut it to make all kinds of repairs also a couple of ubolts and assorted sizes self tapping screws
Just had to do this fix today it might be work adding a few to bolt bag.
Big washers, if you need to fix a bolt and if you have a few big washers you might not have the correct size bolt but the washer may stop the head or but going through and get you out of a jam.
Yes!! Been waiting for this video!
Excellent - thanks Ronny.
Great advice there.
Be nice to hear a little more on the different types of grease your mechanic recommends.
Jb weld and a coke can. Patches a punctured or cracked trans, radiator, oil pan etc etc...
Hi guys carry a few lengths of threaded rod in diff diameters that way you just cut the right size bolt you need , works as wheel studs as well
The only thing I would add Ronny is a couple of exhaust rubbers , from past experience cable ties only last 5 minutes if your lucky .
Top video again look forward to the next one.
I needed an idler pulley, was in convoy, so good friend drove his rig about 100 miles to buy an idler pulley, got to parts store the night before Thankgiving holiday, store to be closed two days, and bought the last pulley in stock an hour before closing time.
I now carry a spare.
I have had a lower house go, right near the hose clamp it tore. No spare so I cut off about of inch of hose to eliminate the tear. This worked, now I carry spare hoses and splices and spare hose clamps.
Hi Ronny, anyone getting new tyres fitted always check the tension of your wheel studs with a wheel brace at home to make sure you can get them undone on the track, many occasion guys cannot undo wheel studs after getting new tyres fitted unless you have an extension bar on the brace
Rolly B a breaker bar is a great tool to not forget
Good stuff as usual
A lot of coolant concentrates are brand/ colour specific and can't be mixed. There is at least one on the market which can mix with any other type .
If you have access to a vacuum packer use it on pre greased wheel bearings , bits and pieces which are better off not bouncing off each other, etc .
What about a maintenance manual if you aren't familiar with changing wheel bearings etc ? , Borrow one then photo copy the relevant pages then get them laminated against grease and dirt .
Toyota Diffs with lockers dont have limited slip .
What about an oil filter incase your oil gets contaminated and has to be changed ?
A very good top video I always carry spare parts but not all what mention in this video so now going carry few extras ones if break down I will remember this video thanks for doing video ( one thing stood out for me was the window cleaner )
Ok a bit late to be posting on this video but here it goes: u-joints! Must *must* bring u-joints. We (northern Mexico)(all of north america, i suppose) tend to think of u-joints as driveline fuses. Its always the first part that goes 'snap' with driveline issues so we always carry spares of these. I must add 90% of our offroad vehicles are wranglers, cherokees, and full size chevrolet trucks and suvs; maybe your LCs dont have this recurring problem, idk. Just a humble opinion. Great videos and tips mate!
Better be safe than sorry. Nice video!
One item I find really useful are steel cable ties
. Better load capacity than the poly ones. You can find them in the electrical section at Bunnings.
Some newer vehicles use Automatic Transmission Fluid for a lubricant in manual transmissions, so bringing the ATF along might be a good idea anyway.
Ronny, great video as always. Can I suggest a couple spare coil packs, radiator cap, and thermostat for your list of parts to carry. Any one of these are fairly cheap to buy but if failed could cause you some real problems on the trail. Happy trails from the States. :)
Thanks again mate!
ALL GOOD STUFF. I agree with 99% and only have a couple other MUST CARRY ITEMS. Another is ONE extra CV AXLE...mine is the same on both sides to ONE is enough. I Blew a Brand New one 2 years ago and I was glad I had that spare...carried it for almost a decade but It paid off that night....yeah, I inevitably usually break down about dark-thirty and don't like having to sit it out until daylight...swap a CV Axel only takes me about an hour at most and that's on the side of a mountain in precarious positions...they never break on the perfect conditions like flat and level ground, Do they?
I've a different idea about the Alternator and Power Steering Pump (Including fresh PS Fluid). I carry a NEW Alternator and Power Steering Pump with me at all times. I realize they take room and add weight but I usually like to replace them quickly and before it gets so dark you can't see your hand in front of your nose.
I had a buddy loose a brush for his Alternator in PITCH BLACK DARK and neither of us could find it even after it got light so we ended up leaving his rig for almost a week before he could get back in with a replacement Alternator. MY, point is tiny peaces are a bugger to find and if you loose one then you're toast anyway so I carry the full boat and just replace these two.
I've only got the one main tank (Plenty of SPARE Gas tho) so I carry one spare Fuel Pump and a fresh sock...done this one more than I can remember and have a trap door in the bed of my pickup just for that...only takes about 15 mins now so swap one out...besides it can be adapted and used in most other pressurized rigs to get someone out of the mountains.
I haven't seen you discuss Light Bulbs YET so I always carry spare headlight bulbs, tail light and interior bulbs at all times. Nothing more frustrating not seeing where you're going in the dark...I know those driving lights can get you out but they can go out just as well....I just do it because I always have since the 70's and old habits are hard to break for this Ol' Timer.
I learned a saying that seems more true than not..........."One is NONE and two is ONE." I think it's the one thing I go by most of the time. I carry about two of everything that MATTERS the MOST, Knives, Bandage Tape, Flashlights, fire starter etc, etc, and so on.
I like your DVD it was very interesting to see more of them and some more prizes to give away
From what I understand; Inox = Fluid Film (for the USA crowd)
Although not essential, because you don't need to drive at night, but I always bring spare globes for my driving lights just in case. I would also recommend bringing essential OEM parts for your vehicle (such as fan belts and hoses as Ronny said) particularly if you have a vehicle that isn't common so that if you can't service it yourself and get towed to a mechanic workshop in a remote town the mechanic can install/replace the the broken part with your OEM part you brought along. Waiting for a part in a remote locality creates all sort of other issues i.e. time factor, accommodation costs (you may end up in a remote town waiting for days), the cost of buying the part from the mechanic remotely etc etc.... and I can't stress enough about getting good insurance cover in case things go pear shape and you need to be towed to the nearest town.
Good vid Ronald...
A few thoughts on this:
Just put your old parts in your car. When you're changing your belts for example, you can keep the old ones. They are still gonne last you a few hundred miles to get out of there.
you don't need coolant. You can just pit water in there just change it with coolant when its freezing.
Coolant isnt just for antifreeze, its to stop your engine corroding. Its ok to put water in just to get home but it has to be flushed or filled with concentrate when you get back
Some form of radiator stop leak would be good. In the States we have some that comes in a small plastic tube. It is made of aluminum/ aluminium flake and it works the best out of any that I have tried.
Prop shaft u-joints, front axle u-joints, and diff yokes. These are what I see broken most, but then I do more rock crawling than overlanding. Optional or space permits - outer front stub shafts also one front and one rear shock absorber. PS many transfer cases use auto trans fuild so maybe a liter of that.
Vacuum seal brake or other fluids, belts, bearings, and hoses ect. anything that is subject to decay, dry rot, moisture absorption, that will preserve them much longer, and a battery operated vac machine is tiny and easy to store. I also do this with clothing, bedding, stuff I seriously want to keep dry. You can use regular zip loc bags, but they don't do as good a job of blocking dirt, dust, and moisture.
Forgot to mention......ALL of my spare filters are taken out of the OEM box, wrapped in a plastic bag, put back in the box, and the box placed into a heavy duty garbage bag and taped/sealed. Keeps grit and dirt from contaminating the filter before it gets a chance to play.
Here in the US, The serpentine belt routing diagram is a sticker on or around the top of the radiator support.
Look at a well used off road rig and there may be replacement parts without that sticker. Always best to have a drawing or take a pic unless you have the necessary skills/experience to figure it out without. As a mech, I still prefer having the routing laid out in front of me. LOL
Hey Ronnie
I really like your videos! So - thank you
One thing. OEM’s are not manufacturers who resell another manufacturers product.
I.e. they are the original equipment manufacturers
Most cars are made of bits that come from other manufacturers (Bosch for example are everywhere in all makes of cars).
can you make a video on how to install all of the stuff in the bush (belts, etc)
For certain kind of tracks and distance/remoteness of the destination we now carry spare CVs and its related parts. We've seen them break regardless of vehicle make - driver's error notwithstanding sometimes you're just unlucky. Maybe not so much if you've upgraded to chromoly ones.
Another great video! But I'd be interested to see a prioritized list, that's a LOT of stuff and you probably don't need it all for every trip, obviously some stuff is more important than others.
Hi Ronny awesome video.
One question what do you think about the toyota tacoma 1998 2.7c for off roading. Do you think is a good option for someone who is just starting in off roading?
Thanks :)
Hot glue gun sticks, two part epoxy putty (jb weld) and some kind of gasket goo. The hot glue sticks can be used like solder to repair small radiator leaks, use a flame to melt and it runs like water.
good video & advice.. re serpentine belts, one vehicle I worked on recently ( can't remember what ) had a factory decal on the underside of the bonnet/hood showing the routing of the belt
888johnmac That's a bloody good idea!
that's what I thought.. take a photocopy of the page from workshop manual, laminate it & stick it to bottom of bonnet/hood or at least wrap it up with the belt
Most modern vehicles I have seen have a decal like that. Sometimes you have to look pretty hard to find them though.
For petrol 4wds maybe dizzy cap leads coil ? could just be old leads and also points and spark plugs? Also uni joints and and some suspension bits shocker, bushs and ball joints? if your 4wd is prone to braking them?
Back in the 80’s my fuel filter clogged on me out in the Mojave desert and I called for a tow. I later learned that you can blow it out to clear it to get back on the road. Granted, the vehicle was a ‘67, but good to know. Also, an extra bulb or two for your headlights is good. An extra oil plug is good for older vehicles, if you lose it you’re stuck. Stop leak for the radiator in an emergency. Jumper cables. Always have jumper cables. I used to carry an extra clutch cable. I think I’m dating myself now. 😂
U forget something a good Log Book with time, kilomètre job record continue your beautiful video I love it.
(P) Add... Wiper blades, bulbs (nice to have), Ignitian Dry Spray, Liquid Electrical Tape (temp fix for wire chafe), Die for wheel stud thread chasing, and JB Weld. Oh and citrus/pumice hand cleaner. Thanks for the great vid.
I'll just go with Ronny
The spare parts you should consider are the ones you need to prevent the vehicle from progressing, thermostat, fan belts, wheel bearings ( that are pre-packed with grease), spare shocks one of each front and year, wheel nuts, assorted bolts, fuel filter, air filter, brake fluid.Assorted hose clamps, some spare hoses. some 2mm welding rods , jumper leads, and a small welding mask. Also always keep 20 lt of water spare for emergency use.
Hi Ronny, Please do a video for foreigners that want to come to Australia rent/ hire a 4wd and camp/ tag along etc.
Speaking of fluid. Just a thought: Might want to carry 1 gallon of something like Seafoam motor treatment. As it or other substitute may be utilized pretty much in all places that oil fluids are required. Lets say your diff is leaking and you already used your spare gear/engine oil, well then one may add seafoam to the diff. Another possibility is one might want to mix in a little seafoam when refilling with the spare oil to extend the amount of spare fluid available to use for refilling if the leak is unable to be found in time or the leak is unavoidable and one still has to travel a ways. With the seafoam in the diff, trans...etc it will clean the item that has leaked or is leaking keeping it clean. Usually if there is a leak then dirt is able to also get in.
You've pretty much covered it. I also include welding rods that can be run off the vehicles batteries in extreme cases.
Why not a Generator and Small mig welder
@@fredscheerle7592
Space!
At 13:21 those stools have been known to collapse and break in SHARDS. And get a complete on-paper service manual. A PDF is nice too, but get the paper manual. Fire extinguisher in the cab for engine fires or other vehicle fire.
Spare headlight bulbs. I don't have all the extra lights and had a few instances of blowing bulbs in the dark. Once both blew at the same time...
Make sure you have what tools it takes to relieve the slack on the serpentine belt idler pully. If it's a hex head make sure you can get a regular socket and breaker bar in on the nut. I have a Ford v6 that takes a square piece (like a key stock) inserted and than a socket on that. Those springs on the idler pully are a lot tighter than you think. A crescent wrench would round off the nut. I suggest that everybody at least make sure they have the right tools to get into that very tight place.
Hey Ronny how do find opposite lock with their bits that fail? I have a 79 Dual cab and the rock sliders copped a bit of a wack but it bent up and that ally checker plate bent up and scratched my bottom sill. The metal must be soft as.
more education like this needed for those who just drive a Vehile , like woman in her Jeep who blew the top radios hose 180km from port Augusta heading north to NT . Clearly Jeep hasn’t seen past gepps cross in adelaide. She didn’t even have a set of jump leads nor a bottle Jack or high lift to change a tyre
Just 1 tip. If you are carrying spare wheel bearings put then in a can of grease i dont know how many times i have seen wheel bearings with flats spots on them from vibration while traveling mainly with trucks but once or twice with 4wds
Rescue Tape!!
Dozens of uses for emergencies to help repair hoses fluid and lines, but also great to wrap around electrical connections pre any trip to waterproof them from river crossings to post trip engine bay washing.
Can also make temporary emergency fan belts with a bit I of string too!
$10 must have Ronny Dahl!
Tyre repair kits obviously. Ironman do a Cool kit in a case.
Torches and lighting... Led wide spread light pattern for working over engine bays or illuminating big areas over a pinpoint torch from a small torch.(spare batteries for it).
Old trick from touring motorcycle trips... Pre fit/route spare cables or hoses taped or tie wrapped next to the existing ones.(smaller diameter hoses and lines). Then if one fails, you don't have to spend half an hour routing and securing new one, simply disconnect faulty cable/hose ends and connect new ones.
Make sure to seal ends of new one with bag, or my favourite is Rescue Tape again as it does NOT leave a sticky residue once removed.
Bulbs. I carry a Scania Truck bulb kit box with bulbs relevant to my 80 Cruiser. It houses exterior and interior bulbs from headlights to courtesy lights, small bag full of fuses, tape, pliers and double ended screw driver.
Its a great sized, sponge lined case kept in rear quater panel always ready to grab quick n go.
Cheers from 🇬🇧👍
That tape is neat stuff. I carry a roll in my 80, Power Wagon and RV. Going to Google that Scania kit and see if it avail. here in the States. (I assume your not, as you said, "torch.") ;-)
Don Leamon
Hey Don, the bulb kit is awesome as it is designed for a truck so it's a good size.
It has slots in the lid already to house the screw driver and pliers so they are not loose to rattle around and bash the bulbs.
The fuses are in a small plastic bag in one of the gaps in the lid between the tools.
In fact, let me go grab a photo or two as I am sure it has the original Scania trucks part number sticker on it.
If you cannot find one stateside contact me as I have a Scania trucks parts dealer less than a mile away from where I am based.
As for the tape... I was so impressed with it I became a dealer for it adding it to our carefully selected brands of expedition, Rescue, defence and race vehicle specialist gear.
If we don't use it our selves, we don't sell it!
Hey Don Leamon I have some images of the kit closed, open and part number.
Of you contact me I will forward the details/images on.
info@rocknroad4x4.com
Office:
0044 (0) 17 72 37 81 20
WhatsApp mobile:
0044 (0) 79 69 57 77 72
Cheers.
I wouldn't carry coolant just use water till you get home
I carry CV half shafts for both sides, all u joints and a carrier bearing, front wheel unitized hubs, an alternator and a starter. I have all of these fail and all are easy fixes to get you home.
Plain high tensile fencing wire to do a Cobb & Co tie, just in case something snaps.
I would add a rear diff cover, if you can find one that fits an inner tube(even if you have tubeless tires), both are small items and can be used for multiple situations, rear drive shaft u-joints, just my 2 cents
Hey Ronny, do you think it is important to use original belts and hoses, or is it possible to use homologated parts
i greased all my ball joints and moving parts before driving through the gibb river, el Questro, bungle bungles, etc. Pretty much everything was squeaking after all those river crossings. i wish i brought along the grease gun.
+Daniel Tran interesting point we had a similar issue with some of the vehicles on the latest trip. I guess it comes down to space and length of time you are out there.
Hi Ronny, love the vids
I have a 79, where can a get spare brush kit/h der for alternator, I h ave done of google but no luck
You can add too the list spark plugs, carb rebuild kit, carb cleaner, hand cleaner, small packet of anti-seize with small brush, penetrating oil, electric fuel pump, spare ignition box, coil, distributor pickup, heater hose, u-joints, and I have found a small can of compressed air "type used for keyboards" to come in handy as well.
PerthEnduro, Thanks, good point. I wouldn't want to be responsible for anyone purchasing and carrying around a carb kit if they had a fuel injected diesel but if they did have a gas vehicle it would probably be a good idea don't you think?
@@berserk7111 rebuild a carb in the field? It's doable but I'll bet there are damn few that have the knowledge, skills, and patience to do it in the field. It used to be a fairly common thing but so were dinosaurs.
Bring a tarp...you can use it to lay on if working under your vehicle, use it as a shelter, sun shade, tons of uses...doesn't have to be a huge one.
Recently had to replace the ABS unit after moisture in the brake fluid caused corrosion and the shuttle valve stopped working. Change brake fluid every 3 years.
I carry a box of spare electrical parts.
Silicon hoses are a great idea.
Fit new belts and then keep the old ones as spares.
What condition would lead to wheel studs being sheared off? Wouldn’t that mostly come from someone over tightening in the past, or regularly? I’ve only seen sheared studs once, and it was from a tire shop accidentally doubling the torque on the lug nuts.
Hi ya you Legend troopy owner great content on your video's Ronny thank you Legend
U mentioned fuses . Yep a few of each blade fuses but don’t forget ur 30,59,60, 80 or 100 MIDI FUSES I’d go two of each especially if running a lot of aux power battery.
Ive even got a MIDI FUSE 100amp to back of tray mainly for work but for running fridge camp lights etc all from Anderson plugs ~ made Anderson plug double adaptor using 8mm 50amp twin core has a splitter to go two Anderson a 50amp plugs back at aux battery end .loaded it up with a 100 amp midi fuse . Doesn’t hurt to over engineer major electoral
some brake line and flare tool would be handy too i think
Ronny, Any chance of adding How and where you carry spare parts and fluids?
On modern cars bring Spare sensors and in some cases ecu’s and wiring loom bits and bobs, my brother in law got a landcruiser prado brand new left the sun roof open a load of sensors got ruined and some sensitive wiring looms got soaked, couldn’t unlock it couldn’t start it. It was pretty bricked took it to Toyota they rebodied it (not under warranty) he had to buy everything electronic, interior, and a fair few body panels (sitting water in the roof and under the interior corroded all the sills seals and a lot of bits like tub, bottom of doors.
Bring couple of tyre valves. If one gets damaged you can wack it in and still have a spare.
Well Ronny, this video made me decide to look into my Hilux 2015 bearing replacement.... hellll n way any one will do that in the field.
With my landrover Series 3 it's a ~30 minutes job, not even needed to remove the wheel...
He had a wheel bearing go bad in the middle of nowhere on one of his adventure trips. Not having everything on hand to change the bearing left them kind of stuck for a few days waiting on parts so he is probably not wanting to have a repeat of that on a future journey.
grrrr lost quite a long reply here ;)
- would carry a bearing for my Land Rover SIII as the procedure is similar
- wouldn't carry a bearing for my Hilux as it would appear impossible in the field after all. (waste of space)
So just a suggestion with regards to the environment what about a container of some type, some absorbent type material ( like kitty litter for exz ) & a waste bag to take away contaminated waste absorbent material ( so for example if yo u are doing a dirty wheel bearing the last thing you want to do is to be spraying & running cleaning piqued into the ground , always try to leave the environment the way you found it .
the north american toyotas are bad for the contacts in the starter to go so i ran a heavy gauge wire to the motor side of the solenoid so when the contact dont work you can jump to the wire and make the starter turn.
My car, Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8, has rear diff lock. I can use oil for not LSD diff I guess. In owner manual it is not clear.
A diagram of how the aux belt fits, those things are a nightmare to work out if missing.
Axle differental oil. You can get the lsd additive separate. And add it to the oil.
I carry a lot less than you do.
Butt im in the UK so unless I hop across the channel I'm never that far from civilization .
I remember that episode you guys had where the Jeep has an electric fan problem. What can you use to clean out an electric fan? The WD or brake cleaner?
The contact cleaner would be best...