The video is obviously awesome, but the customer service is even better! I called from Texas and had a couple of questions about my frameless shower, and Chris spent a good 15 minutes on the phone helping me out. Fantastic!!
(Absolute Shower Doors) Was very helpful with information about installation of a frameless tub & shower that was installing myself California. Thank you
Just wanted to say "Thanks" for the video. I just bought a shower door home today and was looking at the hinge. It looks like it should be centered in the opening but I also thought of setting it in the full down position so the glass rested on the hinge metal. Now I know! Thanks
The glass should be resting down, but NEVER directly on anything metal. You should have a plastic or rubber cushion between the hinge and the glass to rest on. If you rest the glass directly on the hinge the glass may blow. Again, you should probably have a professional install this for you. Thanks
What I do is put 3mm little blocks around each edge then it's centred and the glass has an equal gap away from the metal. The instructions say centre the hinges because remeber door weights are from 25 to 37 kg and you want to keep the glass from the metal. So I suggest little thick rubber blocks and you can buy these from crl laurence. I did this recenlty kept the door solid and I know it would t slid and that the door is sitting on rubber
wow, always wondered about those weird looking hinges. I wonder if the guys used locktite on my screws. I was thinking of backing them out to clean the hinges. maybe I'll just use an old toothbrush.
I need to add about a 3/16 inch shim to go between the hinge and wall anchor on both top and bottom hinge. These hinge spacers will be cut from lexan to the same 'footprint' of existing hinge with the 4 screw holes. I need to move the distance between the fixed glass panel and door vertical edges a bit closer together. There is too much of a gap now, as water leaks out between the door and fixed panel. I want the final gap to be 1/8 inch between panel and swinging door. What is the safest way to remove the screws on the hinges to insert this spacer on each hinge? Should I do them one at a time? Or, loosen both top and bottom about 1/2 in then carefully slide away from the wall while on the wood shims on the curb then remove screws on top then bottom to insert spacer then screw back in really tight? I can use foam pipe insulation across the top to maintain alignment...... What do you recommend? I for dang sure don't want to put a pressure point anywhere that could break the glass.
I recently bought a house with a frameless shower door. The door does not shut tight. There is roughly a 1/16 to 3/32 of an inch between the seal and the glass. Could this be a problem with the hinges? The hinges appear to be like the ones you show. The glass is 3/8 inch. Thank you for any comments you care to leave.
Hi Chris, What would be the best distance from the top and bottom edges to place hinges for a door that is 80 inches long? I realize most hinges seem to be placed about 6 to 6.5 inches from the top and bottom, but what about if it's placed 12 inches from the top and bottom for a 80 inch door? Love to hear your opinion on this. Thanks a mil!
I can tell you. When he orders his glass, the manufacturer will place the hinges at a predetermined position usually roughly 6 " I forget the exact measurement
Sorry for the late reply Jim, for some reason I don't get notified when people make comments and I don't check this page very often. We will typically engineer our hinges to be 8" up from the bottom and 8" down from the top. Both of those dimensions are to the center of the hinge notch. You can go 10" if you feel it would look better, on a taller door. I personally wouldn't go much more than that. The closer you place the hinges together, the less structural integrity you will have.
Hi David, sorry for the delay, I couldn't find your comment after I read it. Glass should never be in contact with metal or a hinge. The gaskets we use flap over that part of the hinge on both both gaskets so that they are between the glass and the brass hinge. If that were not the case or you are using hinges that don't have that, then you should definitely use some type of a soft shim like an 1/8" shim or at least a 0.40." I hope that answers your question. Thanks! :)
Good Instructional video. Have you ever install a stationary piece of glass on a shower pan made up of porcelain coated steel? A metal bracket/clip has to be installed on the threshold. Drilling hole in the pan and then add epoxy or silicon on the hole and then screw in the clip? Will that work? Want to avoid any rust built-up in that area later. I live in Texas. Thanks
+Subhendu Chakraborty Thank you Subhendu. First off, It's important to know that these video's are intended for our own training purposes. We are not encouraging people to try doing any of this highly technical work. If you do not do this for a living, we strongly suggest you find a professional installer to do this for you. Having said that...We've installed on everything. It sounds like what you probably have is a porcelain coated cast iron. No manufacturer will tell you "it's ok to drill holes into their product" After explaining this to our customers and they still would like to proceed, we first gently tap the very point to be drilled. Then we use a 3/16" glass & tile drill bit (brand new). This material must be drilled at a VERY slow and low R.P.M. speed and keeping the area and bit cool by dipping the bit in water very often. (This will help insure the porcelain enamel doesn't start chipping or clamming) Be very careful to collect all of the cast iron filings and throw them out as they will rust and stain anything it sits on in just minutes. Then put your plug in the hole and before you lay your channel or hardware, silicone the area around the hole as well as. Remember that the cast iron wall thickness is not much more than 1/8" thick, so if you've cut the shoulder off the plug, when you're putting the screw in the hole, make sure you're not pushing at all or you will push the plug right through the hole. Also, once the screw is snug, do not attempt to tighten it too much or it will just spin. This is not the best or most structural material to be mounting things into because, again, there is only about 1/8" wall thickness for the screws to grab, so we never mount anything that needs any degree of structural integrity like a door or a panel that will hold a door. You also want to use silicone along the entire length of the hardware & glass to help hold it. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Same as on any other wall, if the wall is out of square, we engineer the glass to be out of square to accommodate what ever the outage is. If the outage is severe we might opt to use pivot hinges with a header to insure the pivot points are plum with each other for smooth operation.
What I find funny is say if you got 3 large pieces of glass with all the fiitings on them how you gonna secure the glass in the van without it all flapping.
The video is obviously awesome, but the customer service is even better! I called from Texas and had a couple of questions about my frameless shower, and Chris spent a good 15 minutes on the phone helping me out. Fantastic!!
(Absolute Shower Doors) Was very helpful with information about installation of a frameless tub & shower that was installing myself California. Thank you
Thank you for calling Michael! I am happy to have helped. If you have any other questions, you know where to find us!
Just wanted to say "Thanks" for the video. I just bought a shower door home today and was looking at the hinge. It looks like it should be centered in the opening but I also thought of setting it in the full down position so the glass rested on the hinge metal. Now I know! Thanks
The glass should be resting down, but NEVER directly on anything metal. You should have a plastic or rubber cushion between the hinge and the glass to rest on. If you rest the glass directly on the hinge the glass may blow. Again, you should probably have a professional install this for you. Thanks
Well said sir from one glass man to another !!!!
What I do is put 3mm little blocks around each edge then it's centred and the glass has an equal gap away from the metal. The instructions say centre the hinges because remeber door weights are from 25 to 37 kg and you want to keep the glass from the metal. So I suggest little thick rubber blocks and you can buy these from crl laurence. I did this recenlty kept the door solid and I know it would t slid and that the door is sitting on rubber
Thanks Chris, well done! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
This is a great video! Can help others install this glass door and make it work great! Thank you very much! Thank you!
Very helpful video. Thanks!
Good video and taught me some new stuff
great video! Thank you.
wow, always wondered about those weird looking hinges. I wonder if the guys used locktite on my screws. I was thinking of backing them out to clean the hinges. maybe I'll just use an old toothbrush.
I need to add about a 3/16 inch shim to go between the hinge and wall anchor on both top and bottom hinge. These hinge spacers will be cut from lexan to the same 'footprint' of existing hinge with the 4 screw holes. I need to move the distance between the fixed glass panel and door vertical edges a bit closer together. There is too much of a gap now, as water leaks out between the door and fixed panel. I want the final gap to be 1/8 inch between panel and swinging door. What is the safest way to remove the screws on the hinges to insert this spacer on each hinge? Should I do them one at a time? Or, loosen both top and bottom about 1/2 in then carefully slide away from the wall while on the wood shims on the curb then remove screws on top then bottom to insert spacer then screw back in really tight? I can use foam pipe insulation across the top to maintain alignment...... What do you recommend? I for dang sure don't want to put a pressure point anywhere that could break the glass.
I recently bought a house with a frameless shower door. The door does not shut tight. There is roughly a 1/16 to 3/32 of an inch between the seal and the glass. Could this be a problem with the hinges? The hinges appear to be like the ones you show. The glass is 3/8 inch. Thank you for any comments you care to leave.
And what do you do when the house shifts by 3/16"? How do you adjust?
Hi Chris,
What would be the best distance from the top and bottom edges to place hinges for a door that is 80 inches long? I realize most hinges seem to be placed about 6 to 6.5 inches from the top and bottom, but what about if it's placed 12 inches from the top and bottom for a 80 inch door?
Love to hear your opinion on this.
Thanks a mil!
I can tell you. When he orders his glass, the manufacturer will place the hinges at a predetermined position usually roughly 6 " I forget the exact measurement
Sorry for the late reply Jim, for some reason I don't get notified when people make comments and I don't check this page very often. We will typically engineer our hinges to be 8" up from the bottom and 8" down from the top. Both of those dimensions are to the center of the hinge notch. You can go 10" if you feel it would look better, on a taller door. I personally wouldn't go much more than that. The closer you place the hinges together, the less structural integrity you will have.
So hinge as far up as can it go! Would it be a problem with the glass touching the hinge metal? I would appreciate your take on this thanks.
Hi David, sorry for the delay, I couldn't find your comment after I read it. Glass should never be in contact with metal or a hinge. The gaskets we use flap over that part of the hinge on both both gaskets so that they are between the glass and the brass hinge. If that were not the case or you are using hinges that don't have that, then you should definitely use some type of a soft shim like an 1/8" shim or at least a 0.40." I hope that answers your question. Thanks! :)
Great but I want to kind of glass used
Good Instructional video. Have you ever install a stationary piece of glass on a shower pan made up of porcelain coated steel? A metal bracket/clip has to be installed on the threshold. Drilling hole in the pan and then add epoxy or silicon on the hole and then screw in the clip? Will that work? Want to avoid any rust built-up in that area later. I live in Texas. Thanks
+Subhendu Chakraborty Thank you Subhendu. First off, It's important to know that these video's are intended for our own training purposes. We are not encouraging people to try doing any of this highly technical work. If you do not do this for a living, we strongly suggest you find a professional installer to do this for you. Having said that...We've installed on everything. It sounds like what you probably have is a porcelain coated cast iron. No manufacturer will tell you "it's ok to drill holes into their product" After explaining this to our customers and they still would like to proceed, we first gently tap the very point to be drilled. Then we use a 3/16" glass & tile drill bit (brand new).
This material must be drilled at a VERY slow and low R.P.M. speed and keeping the area and bit cool by dipping the bit in water very often. (This will help insure the porcelain enamel doesn't start chipping or clamming)
Be very careful to collect all of the cast iron filings and throw them out as they will rust and stain anything it sits on in just minutes. Then put your plug in the hole and before you lay your channel or hardware, silicone the area around the hole as well as. Remember that the cast iron wall thickness is not much more than 1/8" thick, so if you've cut the shoulder off the plug, when you're putting the screw in the hole, make sure you're not pushing at all or you will push the plug right through the hole. Also, once the screw is snug, do not attempt to tighten it too much or it will just spin.
This is not the best or most structural material to be mounting things into because, again, there is only about 1/8" wall thickness for the screws to grab, so we never mount anything that needs any degree of structural integrity like a door or a panel that will hold a door. You also want to use silicone along the entire length of the hardware & glass to help hold it. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!
How do u install on a out of plum wall
Same as on any other wall, if the wall is out of square, we engineer the glass to be out of square to accommodate what ever the outage is. If the outage is severe we might opt to use pivot hinges with a header to insure the pivot points are plum with each other for smooth operation.
What I find funny is say if you got 3 large pieces of glass with all the fiitings on them how you gonna secure the glass in the van without it all flapping.
All of our enclosures are safely wrapped for transport... that's another video.