How to Replace Front Control Arms 2008-16 Chrysler Town & Country
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
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New Control Arm with Ball Joint Set from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASF...
Control arms are a crucial part of the suspension system of your vehicle. They not only carry the load of the vehicle to the wheel, but they typically also maintain its alignment. Control arms are typically large and strong, so you may be surprised it needs replacing. They contain rubber bushings for smoother rides at the cost of eventual wear. This video shows you how to install a new quality TRQ lower control arm in your 2008-16 Chrysler Town & Country.
• Check here for more videos on the 2008-16 Chrysler Town & Country • Chrysler Town & Countr...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2008 Chrysler Town & Country
2009 Chrysler Town & Country
2010 Chrysler Town & Country
2011 Chrysler Town & Country
2012 Chrysler Town & Country
2013 Chrysler Town & Country
2014 Chrysler Town & Country
2015 Chrysler Town & Country
2016 Chrysler Town & Country
Tools you will need:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 21mm wrench
• 24mm Wrench
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 18mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 32mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AAS...
• Blowtorch
• Brake Caliper Hanger 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Pickle Fork
• Locking Pliers 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Straight Cutters
• 1/2 Inch Air Impact Gun 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Swivel
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Cotter Pin
• Liquid Thread Locker
• Rust Penetrant
• Center Punch 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Hammer 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Sledge Hammer 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
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Chrysler Town & Country 2008-16 5th Gen: • Chrysler Town & Countr...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
You don´t have to loosen the big nut on the axle or the shock. It can be done easier just by using an 18 mm wrench on the ball joint and release it, then unscrew the two bolts in the bushings. After that bend the arm down so the joint comes out and swing it backwards. The forward bushing will come out and because the arm is down from the joint it can be turned backwards so it will come clear of the sway bar. Nothing on the sway bar has to be loosened either.
You just saved me from second guessing myself; this video would be the approach for replacing swaybar bushings, end links, along with the control arm; for the control arm assy alone, this is a lot of extra work
Bought your parts, watched this video, saved over $700 for this repair.
Thanks!!
I've done a bunch of these, and the vertical control arm bolt is always rusted into the mount like that. The best way to do the final torquing of the horizontal (forward) control arm bolt is with the control arm at ride height position. That ensures that there is no twisting load on the bushing.
That nut was finial boss level of tough. I get to experience this soon on wife's 2016 Chrysler T&C limited. I'm gonna go ahead and knock out both sides ball joints, tierods, sway bars and struts. Should be able to get the parts for $400-500ish + $79 alignment after. With it having 130k on it I should never have to worry about them again for at least as long as I will own it anyway. Plus if you've already got most of the parts removed anyway doing the ball joints. It literally only takes a few minutes to remove the cowling and unbolt the struts.
Great video.
Have never done control arms before. Seems like just common sense and proper order of things and proper torque. Will be venturing forward in two weeks on the wife's van. Both sides are in order and then alignment and tires. Looks like a very thorough video. Thanks for your time and instructions.
just did this job yesterday with a friend took about 4,5 hours with brake pads and disc replacement. turning feels soo much better now no more shifting in turns on broken loose balljoints.
I used this video to change the left (drivers side) control arm on my 2011 Town and Country. A couple comments:
1) With the transmission on the left/drivers side, it presents clearance problems removing the front arm bolt. While not insurmountable, this video definitely showcases the easier of the two sides. I was able to loosen the assembly that holds the control arm and pry that assembly downward just enough to gain clearance to remove the bolt.
2) Removing the tie bar linkage is not necessary and is FAR more difficult than this video lets on, especially if the car is older, has some rust, and the strut hasn't been replaced (recently or ever). My advice, don't remove it and just work around it, because if you break the bolt or fail to sufficiently tighten it again, you're causing yourself unnecessary headaches.
Total time ~3 hours. I'm not an expert, but I know a few things about car work.
+TheMrbuckeye3 Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
How did you get the front bolt out/in?
Thank you. Minivans matter of fact I don't like front wheel drives at all. But I appreciate that thank you.
It's best to torque the lower control arm pivot bolt after the vehicle is on the ground so the bushing is "neutral" when at ride height.
Slide the axle onto the knuckle? Not before you attach the knuckle to the ball joint. Oops. Forgot to edit that out. Okay though, as I already had it attached before checking your video.
BTW, corrections do not mean disapproval. Best instructional video I saw out there. Thank you.
You've helped me a few times, 1A Auto has helped me a few times... Thank you.
Finally a struggle for us shade trees. 😂 Great video!
I need to replace this same deal. Slid into a tree. Took the bumper. Headlight assy. Sway bar link. Bent the control arm. I can do it just need some good reference points thanks. I feel relieved
doing this job right now yours looks a lot nicer lol
When you did the bolts for the knuckle to struts it might be 65 ft lb but after you torque it to that you turn an additional quarter turn. That's what my service manual said on my 2010 T&C
I love how something that's done in 10 min places charge 5.5 hrs for. Even with the editing iv done bad ones with minimal tools in an hr in a half.
Might need to double check the ball joint torque spec. Is it 20 pounds plus X degrees turn?
Show us how you got the drivers side out!
Left side control arm video please.
Very good very clear and good work really professional
+Maher Gindy Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
great video. it's nice to see how professionals work!
+vladlu1us Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
WOOW!!VERY IMPRESSED ABOUT YOUR VIDEO.COULDN T BE EXPLAIN BETTER THAN THIS !!!AGAIN WOOW!!
+@cannondaleca Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
The sway bar link on our vehicle, and the ones I bought to replace them, had 15mm nut-type fittings, rendering the locking pliers I bought unnecessary... for this project.🙂
I would have liked to replace the axle nut to ensure proper torque and seating of wheel bearings but everybody is out of stock! 118 ish foot lbs it is then
My ball joint nut (2011 Town and Country) was a 19 mm.
this man is the boss, good job
Hi ! Mi Axle doesnt push in and out even if I hit it with a big hammer I tried everything put it doesnt push in even 1 mm what could that be ? and what can I do
because i need to change the drive shaft
Try heating up with map gas and spraying with lubricant and since you are changing the axle pull Everything off together
Use a 1 ton press
Nice job
Short of an accident why would I replace this. what symptom?
Knocking noise over bumpy road would be one reason. Ball joint goes bad and unless you have a press it's just easier to replace control arm that has the new ball joint in it. Also sometimes the new ball joints dont fit.
Exelente master
Longest CONTROL ARM BOLT I EVER SEEN
+Unruly Heart Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
I just bought a 2010 that may need this done. Thank you so much!
Whats the difference between those control arms and a T&C Limited with NIVOMAT Suspension?
Do you need wheel alignment after installation???
+Fox1 Yes, any time you replace a suspension component, you should get an alignment.
Do you need to do front end alignment is it necessary
+Maher Gindy Yes, an alignment would be necessary after this installation.
My van was taken to the shop where it was diagnosed needing new control arms. My steering was pulling to the right and then to the left as the gears changed. Driving was a little wobbly. Cost, over $1,700 for the mechanics to do this. I have yet to see how it runs.
Buen trabajo
+Alex Bonilla Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Amazing video 🔥🔥🔥🔥
would tire alignment be affected by bad control arms? went in for alignment and was told I needed control arms. very interesting!
+Patricio Murphy Thanks for checking us out! Yes, a faulty control arm can cause issues with an alignment on the vehicle.
@@TRQ Thanks for confirming. My van pulled to the right, a knocking sound as well from driving wash board dirt roads.
🤔 I have a 2008 van with 110,000 miles on it and it is creaking not sure it is worth doing all this, due to the age of the vehicle I would probably have to replace all of the parts
Why would you replace this
You R the Best
Chrysler= Mickey mouse club!😂
good iop👍👍
Ya just take punch and hammer to the CV shaft. It will just pop in there. NOT. Looking at your demo it appears the vehicle is like new so no problem. Try this on 2013 model and see how “easy” that shaft wants to move. It doesn’t.
Yeah a 1 ton press and still wouldn't pop out if rusted 🤣
What size pickle fork?
Remplace rack pinion in this vehicle video please town country 2008
+Sergio Caro We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
what is that spray bottle of never seize you got there? where can you get it?
Yudo NeidaNo nitro lubricants copper anti seize....Amazon
I got mine at O'Reilly's Permatex. They call it Copper Spray-A-Gasket. I also use a brush on form.
Yeah, try the drivers seat!
That thumbnail though.
On a 2015
Yeah okay...Now do it on a rust bucket.
Exactly I paid and watched a mechanic it took him 2 days to do both upper and lower control arms Driver/Passenger side I must say very shitty design
Ceramic grease is better
If you have one of these just set fire to it you'll save lots of money