TO ANYONE THAT IS DOING THIS IN THE FUTURE. You don't NEED to take the axle nut off or remove the wipers. I simply pulled up on the plastic cover and was able to get to the nuts for the strut mount. It will save you time to skip those steps! Also, get new sway bar links. The old ones have Nylon lock nuts on them. The easiest way to get them off it to heat them up with a butane of propane torch to melt the Nylon allowing you to get it off easier. Probably wont be able to get them tight after melting em! Good luck to any DIYers who are doing this on their garage floor!
Why just the links, & would you recommend anything other than just the away bar links after doing it? I was gonna just get a set of struts for the front because I don’t need the whole suspension redone, but I am doing new rotors, & pads, tires, & a 4 wheel alignment so I might as well go ahead, & get anything that needs it.
Taking the axle nut off is to lower the risk of popping the axle out of its slide at the transmission because he is moving the spindle assembly in and out to get the strut out. If the cv axle gets pulled too far out it can dislocate internally and be a pain in the ass to put back in.
Great video, thanks. One thing I'd say though is that I don't think it's 100% necessary to remove the axle nut and pop the shaft back. There should be enough play and clearance to get the old strut out and the new one in. In the rust belt that axle spline will be seized like a mother and will probably torpedo what is otherwise a pretty simple job.
Likely to ensure the assembly moves freely. Removing and installing the strut will be difficult if you don't have any play in the lower mounting bracket.
It's important IF you have to fight the strut off the strut mount on the lower - if you move that strut mount too far, you run the risk of pulling the CV joint apart inside the boot - you can't see that you did it, but when you start driving it, it will destroy the outer cv joint. Taking the nut loose AND (just as important) making sure that the spline shaft free floated (hit it with the punch) makes sure that you won't pull that joint apart.
Why are you removing the Axle Nut? What is the purpose? Every other tutorial I have seen this step is skipped. Thanks for the torque settings! All other tutorials did not have those ether
I've watched so many of these videos and I see everyone in the videos using a torque wrench on everything. They very rarely use torque wrenches in shops except for when it comes to head gaskets.
Have a rough vibration and it’s getting worse from stop to go. Feels as it’s from the front end on the drivers side. Transmission seems fine, just the ride until I get to 30 mph or so. Is it the struts? Replaced the rear shocks last month. Thanks with your help! 😀
1) do you have to do both sides or can you just do the broken side? 2) any model or name or size for those locking pliers? 3) same question for the wiper removal tool Thanks
So what parts will an alignment shop adjust after doing this? I know you should get an alignment but I don't understand why. What will they adjust that we messed with?
BUY NEW SWAY BAR LINKS! I know someone else said it, I just want to catch your attention better so you hopefully don’t make the same mistake I did not getting them…
Will this method work on a Chevy venture. I actually have a oldsmobile silhouette and i cant get the holes to line up. The strut holes are lower than the assembly holes. Any suggestions. Mechanics out here will not look at a discontinued vehicle.
So I installed KYB struts on both side. They clunk each time I hit a big bump. I checked my bolts and they are at 21lbs for the 3 bolts on top. Any suggestion why my new shocks clunks? I even tighten the middle nut on the strut.
Hey i have 2015 chrysler town and country, my old strut has two refular holes on the button excatly to fit two bolts, and now that i look for new strut the bottom hole on all the struts is a bit wider and i cant find the same exact strut as my old with two regular holes without the bottom hole being adjusted! Maybe you have a link for exactly those struts that i need? If anything then i would need to find the bolts with washers that can be adjusted
Great video. Question, I have a 2014 town and country. Front struts where replaced by dealer. bottom part of windshield was cracked during replacement but did not spread through entire windshield after driven home ( stress crack type). Dealership is denying any damage to windshield. But a safelite tech inspected and showed me on how the crack happened. Start of cracked windshield happened under the plastic engine cover that the wipers are over. MY QUESTION is it possible during replacement of front struts that the tech had damaged the windshield with a tool? Thanks for any info
Short answer: Yes. Listen to your windshield guy - and watch the video - that part that the plastic cowl clips to IS the bottom of the windshield, and it's right there. Accidentally banging the edge of the glass with a tool is definitely a possibility.
Why do you need an alignment? Another CZcamsr said you need an alignment unless you put the strut bolts in the exact way they came out but they only go in one way. So I have no idea what he’s talking about
Hi , Ccan you help me with this issue ? I have to replace the Strut-Mate Strut Mounting because one of the three bolts who hold the shock absorber is broke, the question is , How many foot-Lb do I need to tight the main nut ? Thank you
When you remove the 2 lower strut bolts the whole spindle falls outwards, sitting only on the lower balljoint and tie rod, and possibly pulling your cv joint apart if you hadnt loosened it.
@@tpierron1 Agreed, and to amplify - you can pull the CV joint apart without pulling the boot (rubber part) apart - which means, you don't know that you destroyed the cv joint - it looks ok from outside, but the joint blows itself apart first time you drive it.
I followed the video and my Grand Caravan (2014) rides way better. But now I have a clinking clunking when i go over a bump or down a driveway. Any suggestions on what I missed or did wrong? Thanks!
Porque quitan tantas cosas y si no es necesario Yo e mirado otros videos y no quitan nada de eso y está muy fácil hacerlo No se porque le complican la vida a la gente con todas esas partes que quitan Si se supone que la gente está buscando algo más fácil para no llevar el carro al mecánico
To be honest, probably 80-90% of the time you can and get away with it. The problem is, once in a while that spline shaft doesn't move enough, and when moving the steering knuckle (the part the strut bolts to on the bottom) gets moved around too far and causes the CV joint to separate internally. It won't rip the boot (normally) but it will still destroy the CV joint the minute you start driving it. The CV joint bearings pull apart and will shred. Again, if you did it and your van hasn't failed, then you got lucky... it isn't a long term to fail thing, it'll happen pretty much right away if you got unlucky enough to separate it.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
TO ANYONE THAT IS DOING THIS IN THE FUTURE. You don't NEED to take the axle nut off or remove the wipers. I simply pulled up on the plastic cover and was able to get to the nuts for the strut mount. It will save you time to skip those steps! Also, get new sway bar links. The old ones have Nylon lock nuts on them. The easiest way to get them off it to heat them up with a butane of propane torch to melt the Nylon allowing you to get it off easier. Probably wont be able to get them tight after melting em! Good luck to any DIYers who are doing this on their garage floor!
Why just the links, & would you recommend anything other than just the away bar links after doing it? I was gonna just get a set of struts for the front because I don’t need the whole suspension redone, but I am doing new rotors, & pads, tires, & a 4 wheel alignment so I might as well go ahead, & get anything that needs it.
Dude I noticed this going through the video and even went back to the beginning to make sure I was right. Good stuff bro.
I was like why the axle nut??? 💀
Taking the axle nut off is to lower the risk of popping the axle out of its slide at the transmission because he is moving the spindle assembly in and out to get the strut out. If the cv axle gets pulled too far out it can dislocate internally and be a pain in the ass to put back in.
This is how you do tutorials on CZcams. Good job sir!
Damn straight
Great job no idle chit chat for 10 minutes right to it , done
Awesome tutorial. Thanks for adding the torque specs!
Great video, thanks. One thing I'd say though is that I don't think it's 100% necessary to remove the axle nut and pop the shaft back. There should be enough play and clearance to get the old strut out and the new one in. In the rust belt that axle spline will be seized like a mother and will probably torpedo what is otherwise a pretty simple job.
+Mark Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Yeah there’s a CZcams video of someone doing it without removing the axel nut
Once again a very well paced, informative video. Thanks!
Great Video, clean editing, straight to the point A+ (except for the axle nut?)
Thanks for the quick and direct video! I can't wait to try putting these struts in my '89 voyager, I'll let you know if they fit :)
Thank you for your videos it saved me a lot of money for those of us doesn't have a lot of money it helps
You made that look easy!
Thanks for the video. Saved me a bunch of money!
+C Lauck Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Why did you take off the axle nut?
Likely to ensure the assembly moves freely. Removing and installing the strut will be difficult if you don't have any play in the lower mounting bracket.
@@joshuawiedenbeck6944 well I managed it without haha
@@cccraigslist Well there you go
It's important IF you have to fight the strut off the strut mount on the lower - if you move that strut mount too far, you run the risk of pulling the CV joint apart inside the boot - you can't see that you did it, but when you start driving it, it will destroy the outer cv joint. Taking the nut loose AND (just as important) making sure that the spline shaft free floated (hit it with the punch) makes sure that you won't pull that joint apart.
I couldn’t get my wipers off even with the tool, if you remove the clips you can still some room it’s tight but doable pass side is easier
Pienso que hacen tanto por que trabajan por hora 😅😅😂😂😂😂
I’m excited to do this on my van! Thank you for the informational video :)
Why are you removing the Axle Nut? What is the purpose? Every other tutorial I have seen this step is skipped. Thanks for the torque settings! All other tutorials did not have those ether
I've watched so many of these videos and I see everyone in the videos using a torque wrench on everything. They very rarely use torque wrenches in shops except for when it comes to head gaskets.
Excellent and to the point
You’re the same Feller I’ve watched do films on the 1AAuto channel.
Have a rough vibration and it’s getting worse from stop to go. Feels as it’s from the front end on the drivers side.
Transmission seems fine, just the ride until I get to 30 mph or so.
Is it the struts?
Replaced the rear shocks last month. Thanks with your help! 😀
Probably way put of alignment
Where can i get those fancy "locking Pliers" ??????
Awesome and thorough tutorial. Thank you
1) do you have to do both sides or can you just do the broken side?
2) any model or name or size for those locking pliers?
3) same question for the wiper removal tool
Thanks
You don't have to take the axle out or the top plastic piece and wiper blade arms off plenty of room saved me a hour know what u are doing n its easy
I like the detail, my only question is where did you find the strange vice grip/
Vise grip makes some really oddball pliers - used to love going through their catalog...
It's called parrot pliers
So what parts will an alignment shop adjust after doing this? I know you should get an alignment but I don't understand why. What will they adjust that we messed with?
BUY NEW SWAY BAR LINKS!
I know someone else said it, I just want to catch your attention better so you hopefully don’t make the same mistake I did not getting them…
Would it be the same for a 2017 Grand Caravan
Can this be done without a lift? Just a jack and stands? Also is the rear the same process.
This video was awesome and helped me out a lot today. Thank you for it!
Great video. Thank you.
Will this method work on a Chevy venture. I actually have a oldsmobile silhouette and i cant get the holes to line up. The strut holes are lower than the assembly holes. Any suggestions. Mechanics out here will not look at a discontinued vehicle.
So I installed KYB struts on both side. They clunk each time I hit a big bump. I checked my bolts and they are at 21lbs for the 3 bolts on top. Any suggestion why my new shocks clunks? I even tighten the middle nut on the strut.
Hey i have 2015 chrysler town and country, my old strut has two refular holes on the button excatly to fit two bolts, and now that i look for new strut the bottom hole on all the struts is a bit wider and i cant find the same exact strut as my old with two regular holes without the bottom hole being adjusted! Maybe you have a link for exactly those struts that i need? If anything then i would need to find the bolts with washers that can be adjusted
No need to remove wheel hub nut and you will probably destroy your sway bar links so just plan on replacing those.
Awesome knowledgeable video
Great job
What do you call the wiper remover?
Good job as always. Did You put Your TRQ shocks from Your Amazon store on?
Great video. Question, I have a 2014 town and country. Front struts where replaced by dealer. bottom part of windshield was cracked during replacement but did not spread through entire windshield after driven home ( stress crack type). Dealership is denying any damage to windshield. But a safelite tech inspected and showed me on how the crack happened. Start of cracked windshield happened under the plastic engine cover that the wipers are over. MY QUESTION is it possible during replacement of front struts that the tech had damaged the windshield with a tool? Thanks for any info
Short answer: Yes. Listen to your windshield guy - and watch the video - that part that the plastic cowl clips to IS the bottom of the windshield, and it's right there. Accidentally banging the edge of the glass with a tool is definitely a possibility.
What brand is that torque wrench?
Great job! can you also mention the tork in EU standards ?
Google foot-pound to newton-meter conversion. Put foot-pound number in and get your desired newton-meter. You're welcome.
Why do you need an alignment? Another CZcamsr said you need an alignment unless you put the strut bolts in the exact way they came out but they only go in one way. So I have no idea what he’s talking about
excelente tutorial...
+rene pineda esquivel Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
I have a dodge this is the same
High quality video. I'll know results shortly.
Como saber el año segun el vin vehicular
What kind of licking pliers are those?
Hi , Ccan you help me with this issue ? I have to replace the Strut-Mate Strut Mounting because one of the three bolts who hold the shock absorber is broke, the question is , How many foot-Lb do I need to tight the main nut ? Thank you
Why remove the axle nut? That doesn't appear to be necessary
When you remove the 2 lower strut bolts the whole spindle falls outwards, sitting only on the lower balljoint and tie rod, and possibly pulling your cv joint apart if you hadnt loosened it.
@@tpierron1 Agreed, and to amplify - you can pull the CV joint apart without pulling the boot (rubber part) apart - which means, you don't know that you destroyed the cv joint - it looks ok from outside, but the joint blows itself apart first time you drive it.
I followed the video and my Grand Caravan (2014) rides way better. But now I have a clinking clunking when i go over a bump or down a driveway. Any suggestions on what I missed or did wrong? Thanks!
Check sway bar links as well.
Had the same problem and it was the sway bar links
So you replace Struts but not the sway bar links ?? I have that clinking noise going over bumps
Did you use cheap shock/ strut assembly always go oem, some of those cheap strut assembly are worse than a worn-out oem assembly
Porque quitan tantas cosas y si no es necesario
Yo e mirado otros videos y no quitan nada de eso y está muy fácil hacerlo
No se porque le complican la vida a la gente con todas esas partes que quitan
Si se supone que la gente está buscando algo más fácil para no llevar el carro al mecánico
WHY REMOVE the axel nut!!!!!😡
why do you need a wheel remover to take off your wipers? 😂
Was quoted 1500 for parts and labor what a joke
yup. Quoted $2000cdn. No way!
PROPER TOOLS AND PROPER MECHANIC MAYBE 250 300 MAX
Everybody just puts in quick struts. No one wants to make a video showing how to take the springs off, etc.
I just dont understand this guy most of the video I watched you always go the difficult route I did mine without removing the axle nut
To be honest, probably 80-90% of the time you can and get away with it. The problem is, once in a while that spline shaft doesn't move enough, and when moving the steering knuckle (the part the strut bolts to on the bottom) gets moved around too far and causes the CV joint to separate internally. It won't rip the boot (normally) but it will still destroy the CV joint the minute you start driving it. The CV joint bearings pull apart and will shred. Again, if you did it and your van hasn't failed, then you got lucky... it isn't a long term to fail thing, it'll happen pretty much right away if you got unlucky enough to separate it.
Do you know that 2016 is totally different????? This video isn't helping at all