I Re-Geared my 4Runner for 35s and this is what I LEARNED.
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- čas přidán 23. 01. 2023
- In this video I talk through my experience of sourcing re-gear fluids and parts as well as being a gopher and observing as the 4Runner gets re-geared at Sidco4x4 in Glencoe, MN. Trevor at Sidco4x4 used to be a master tech and then started working for his father's shop in the off-road/mudding/rock crawling scene. Check out everything that went into and what I learned along the way.
Sidco Website: sidco4x4.com/
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Wheels, Tires, Suspension:
Dobinsons MRR 3-Way Adjustable Long Travel Kit
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If it wasn't clear, I went with 4.88 gears.
That was an amazing tour of Sidco. Send our thanks to Trevor. A rare family operation. Learned a lot from this video
Will do!
I Have 2011 Rubicon When it was new I regarded to 5.13 and running 35s. I love it
The worst part of dealing with gear manufacturers is they don't understand how oil works and 99% of consumers don't either. There is absolutely NO reason you shouldn't use a 100% synthetic oil in any vehicle! I have replaced gear oil in hundreds of vehicles and have never had a problem, I do run AMSOIL and that's ALL I use when changing others as well. Gear oil also does other things besides lubricate and if it's doing it's job, it should also cool gears other wise you get what's called "thermal runaway", which will cause the oil to over heat and turn volatile and will vaporize. Engine oil should also cool the engine and can also generate thermal runaway and turn volatile. Beware of "full" or "fully" synthetic oils, they are NOT 100% Synthetic! They are group III petroleum base oils and are only able to be called "synthetic" because Judges don't know about oil either! Group IV & V base oils are 100% Synthetic.
You want lower viscosity in winter so it will flow through the gears easier and lubricate. Usually summer driving isn't an issue because the oil flows better anyway. The guys at East Coast Gear Supply recommend the 140 weight gear oil for everything, regardless of OEM recommendations (i.e. 90 weight from toyota). If I understood correctly, thet felt the higher viscosity took heat better, as you mentioned, and it "sticks" to the hears better, so that it can lubricate. I got the impression that lower wight oil was too "watery" and thin, so the lubricity was less.
Never heard of these guys when looking around MN for a shop that could do this, might have to give them a call when my regear is due. Thanks for the video!
They do great work and I’ve got the 5% off discount if you need it!
Nice rig brotha!
Your 4runner build is my favorite men. I've checked out other mods but yours is just simple. I like the way the front suspension sits a little lower than the rear. Hope to meet you one day and maybe you help me out with my 4runner just the way you did yours.
I do 4Runner design consult sessions virtually to help out people pick compatible mods, etc! overland-engineer.com/shop/p/consult
Otherwise I run Minnesota Rigs and Coffee so you could ask questions at that.
Awesome video.. That super skilled mechanic at Sidco kinda sounds like Vin Diesel 😂
I just rebuilt a rear end. Using cheap diff fluid and draining and refilling with Royal Purple after 500 miles
The other reason I was told to do the fill plug first is so you know you can refill the diff after draining all the fluid!
That's smart and now it's just common practice 🙂
Yep. It's a bad day if you drain your fluid and then a seized fill plug strips out.
since you're regearing, are you putting in lockers as well? It would have been the perfect time! You should put in a diff breather as well to keep out possible water ingress.
I live mn too.
My 2020 4runner off-road is stock running 265s. My highest mileage has been 25mpg highway miles. I see 19 to 21mpg combined.
Shifts like a dream.
This my 2nd runner.
I wouldn't change a thing.
My advice, your 35s are too big big
Bro!!…. I gotta go change my diff fluid now…. On 6 diffs! 😂😂😂
Wait what?! Did you use OEM fluid like me?!
How did you run amber drl on the alpha Rex headlights
I see that some parts such as the air tube and the transparent plastic lid fit into the box with rubber bands, what guarantees do you have that water will not enter
Huh?
I love my 4Runner but I hate the fact that it requires so many mods just to fit some 35s tires. I did the calculations and I think it comes down to about $15K for all the mods required to put 35s and a rooftop tent. That's a ridiculous amount of money! And there's the problem of MPG going to crap along with all the drivetrain issues. At that point, I might just use that money for a down payment on a Bronco that comes with 35s from the factory (and will still have some to spare for a roof rack + roof tent).
What size wheel do you have?
I’m really wanting to run 35s. 33s on a 5th 4 runner just look too small. Do you think I could run them as a daily driver? Maybe eventually regear. I know it’s fo able and apparently the 35 is only 4 lbs heavier. I feel like there wouldn’t be much difference unless off-road of course. Thoughts? Should I go for it
Rotational mass is 10 times heavier meaning any weight you put on the wheel or tires will add 10x that weight to your payload. Regear will help for sure, but not sure how that vehicle will drive fast on a freeway unless you supercharge it or drive at higher rpm.
If going to 35’s it’s better to make em a bit skinnier which end up with better air down characteristics.
I’ve been running 35s no rehear for 2 years, going up hill your in third gear bottom line, everything else is fine.
@@clarkbigatel347 what did you do to get the 35s to fit? I have 3 inches and 33s now
@@Bakesga I did dobinsons 3 in front and ‘long travel’ with a little front spacer for lean , spc uca at around 4 caster. DIY body mount chop with rsg plates and pushed it all the way back, pinch weld and fender liner trimming, viper cut and front fender liner trimming and zip ties to hold it out of the way, and I’m on stock 2015 sr5 rims with 1.25 in spacers. I still rub every now and then on the front fender liner but that doesn’t bother me and I could trim it if I needed to. In the winter I run the 35x10.5 kenda kelver and they look great and feel amazing wheeling (I’ve honestly had better results rock crawling with them too) I might just year round them at this point.
So what gear did you end up running. I'm not 100% sure, but you never even mentioned if you did 4.56 or 4.88. Running 35's the norm is 4.88
Yeah I realized that after editing the video. There is a clip where I show the 4.88s and thats what I went with.
*** PLEASE HELP***
-2016 4runner SR5 5th gen. 4.0L/Cyl.
*it’s heavy with lots of mods*
I need to re-gear for 35s. Do I buy 4.88 or 4.56?
What’s the difference?
Well it depends on the elevation you drive and the speed limits you have. 4.88s help with low speed torque but limit your top end. 4.56 don’t have as much low end torque but will preserve higher speeds to a degree.
@@OverlandEngineer Phoenix Arizona. Mostly city 45-65mph.
The difference is a few %
George Kittle is a great mechanic
Dad?
How long is the process to regear?
Well the job takes probably 1-1.5 days of shop time if the shop is competent and your vehicle is typical. Break in can be fast or slow depending on how much flexible time you have to do 500 miles of driving with cooling breaks. Not too long in my opinion but requires some planning
It's actual pain, I did it on a Ford 8.8 for "fun"
@@tuckerhiggins4336 hahaha
Do you find it difficult to go 100mph with 35s?
Also what's the new mpg you get after regear?
Why would you even want to do 100? 😅
@@clarkbigatel347 it's not that I want to do 100 but I just remember when I drive a 4runner with smaller tires I was able to do 100 just fine
@@East.bigblue gotcha, I’m on 35s rn and with the different ratios to the speedometer and odo getting up to 92-93 will put you over 100 mph actual speed, maybe not gonna do it uphill that easy but going down a hill no problem.
The problem you are referring to is called "Shear Stability". In order for your gears to work properly and not wear out or break pre maturely is running the best oil available. OEM oils are not made by the manufacturer, they are contracted to an oil manufacturer and are supposed to meet ASTM and ASE specs. Most DO NOT, and when you drive a brand new vehicle off the lot and get the gear oil up to running temp or under load hotter, you get molecular shear and once it's sheared, it's permanently sheared. You are now running on gear oil that is not protecting your gears on a brand new vehicle! Red line FAILS shear stability testing as well as Mobile, Castrol Syntech, Royal Purple as well as 11 others! The only one to pass both standard and extreme use testing id AMSOIL ! They make 75W-90, 80W-90, 75W-10 and 75W-140. You will notice that FORD has not made a 75W-90 for at least the past 15-20 years because they also failed and were losing diffs. They have gone to 75W-140 for ALL vehicles with diffs. they have also retroactively changed requirements for ALL vehicles clear back as I can find. You will also notice the EOM manufacturers are now putting MAGNETS on the inside of the diff. covers to collect all the shavings, because their oils are not protecting the gears! Gears should not touch, the oil is supposed to provide boundary lubrication and bridge between the gears, once it's sheared they touch and wear out the gears, hence the need for magnets. AMSOIL will outlast any other gear oil on the market and has a 100K mile warranty, no other oil on the market has any warranty! Check out their motor oils as well, they also come with a warrant of 25K miles or one year which ever comes first! Filters too!
I’m interested to learn more about this. Do you have any helpful links to where I can see these companies passing or failing the standards or some resource that’s done a review?
Must work for Amsoil huh
@@tuckerhiggins4336 haha
I'm Spun@ but thx* lots - saved me months of research * & $$ - Thx -Seriously
Op never changed his own diff fluid 😂
I bought my rig used and its my first car...not sure why its so ridiculous...
I’m sure these guys are good, but I’ve seen better shops.
What does that say about redline when they don't recommend it on aftermarket gears? I wouldn't run it!!
Yeah it’s hard to say…it’s similar to Toyota OEM spec and OEM spec is synthetic. I’m learning more and more the ever changing specs of dealerships tied to politics and automotive policy and the “old guys” of the field know a lot based on materials and just over the years failures and experience they have seen.