Joncutter chainsaw mods
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- I added a larger carb, intake and modded muffler to my joncutter 5800 saw, It gained about 2500rpm while cutting. This saw likes a bigger carb/intake.
It worked fine as is but was a little slow, its no longer slow. I have a couple vids of it cutting coming shortly.
Did you publish the video of the carb install? I would love to see how you did that, this saw intrigues me.
I’m wondering the same thing myself.
Just ordered mine today, might have to try the carb mod!
Good video, interesting stuff...hope you don't mind but I put a link to this on the opeforum so folks can see what you do..
I read the stuff on opeforum, the guy who made the intake on my 62 replied to you there. I copied it and made one for the other china saws I have. I posted in forums that I copied someone elses work it was him lol. The biggest difference between his saw and mine are the cc's, the timberpro is 61.5 and rips, the joncutter is 54.6 and works pretty good too. A lot of the Chinese saws claim to be 58s or 62s but are 52's.
It's hard to find the 61.5 but if you can its a more powerful saw when ported and the exact same weight as the smaller cc versions.
Possible to know where I can get the Timberpro air filter you have?
Alliexpress, they're only a couple bucks. Search for 5200 chainsaw air filter, more stuff pops up when you search for the more common 5200.
Thanks for the video. I am about to get G4500, any idea would it also benefit from similar mod, and perhaps what carb to use from huztl.net ?
The 365/372 carb is what's on mine, it bolts up like the stock carb but needs some mods to make the choke and throttle work.
I'd try just doing a little porting on the 45cc saw first. With less CC's you wont get as big of boost as I did with the bigger carb/intake, the stock carb is only a tiny bit too small for 45cc.
I had a 45 for a bit before getting the joncutter, with just a little porting and a muffler mod it ran better than the stock 58 or 62cc Chinese saws.
If you could do a video of the manifold that would be greatly appreciated. I'm in fact trying to get a ms290 ms390 stihl carb to work I have it bolted up throttle opens fully and closes fully. Figuring up a choke lever is what I'm doing now still wouldnt mind being able to make a bigger manifold I used a .630" inch inside diameter tube that's about 17mm. And put inside the stock manifold. Seems as if it will work. So I will fire tomorrow and see if it changes it some. Tell I can figure out nanking a bigger manifold
I'd have to tear a saw apart to make a video showing the manifold so that's not likely to happen.
What you do is cut the manifold off at the flange that goes onto the cylinder then glue a piece of 7/8 or 21mm id pipe onto it. You also have to cut out the plastic divider/carb colder so the new bigger pipe fits. The new set up ends up flush with the divider, this makes more room for the bigger carb too.
I have done so and I've used jb weld I have to redo it because the manifold broke. I didnt know I had ordered the 52cc cylinder for the 32mm stroke crank an piston hit cylinder with no base gasket and with a .024 base gasket so I used that gasket and a .016 gasket and it raised it up to give me .021 squish unfortunately it raised the cylinder to much so the carb adapter I cant bolt to the cases so it had to much vibration lasted about 3 minutes then the jb weld broke loose telling me it didnt bond well with the plastic. I will try again and do it differently to get it to hold together better.
@@rncboy2 I used a product called seal all on mine, its used to fix plastic gas tanks, it works much better than jb weld.
You could turn the top of the piston down on the outer edges so you don't need to stack base gaskets, this also gives you more compression. Or you can sand the top of the cylinder down until you have enough clearance, this also bumps compression.
My 5800 (54cc) cylinder worked out great as is, with no base gasket its close to .020 squish and just under 200psi of compression.
I didnt think of that but I am wondering how you sqnd the top of the cylinder dont understandhow the sandpaper would stay on the piston. It was the 52cc quad port 45mm not the 45.2mm I do have a actual 58cc 45.2mm coming didnt even pay attention to see if it was the quad or dual port. .I'll probably make another using the seal all. Had to drill holes through the carb adapter and push jb through it since it was all I had at the moment. Let set and did the same exact process drilled holes again in different spots then applied more jb weld to both sides.
I kept the 52cc 45mm cylinder. The 45.2mm cylinder finally came in I checked the squish with no base gasket it is .0295 squish was hoping closer to .020 but that's alright. I dont have anyone to cut the cylinder at the moment or i would. I did redo the intake manifold I had made. Hopefully this time it stays together. Think the ms290 carb will work pretty well with it. Also cut muffler in half and pulled baffle out and rewelded muffler back together.
I'm Curious how many rpms it took to break the crank on one of these Chinese saws
16000 plus, I was trying a new cylinder and tuning it, I had it set too lean for a second.
It broke by the flywheel side bearing but the bearing spins fine, could of been a fluke tho and that saw was 4-5 years old.
My 5800 runs at just under 15000 rpm and is doing just fine. I run 32-1 to help them survive.
I've found 14000-15000 rpm to be the sweet spot for these saws. Raise the exhaust any more for more rpm and they dont gain anything you only loose tq.
@@nseric1233 appreciate the information
I've been starting my builds off with 20-25:1 and then 32:1 is what I use as well..
Ooh forgot to ask you about your 48mm builds did you bire the wrist pin out to 11mm or did you happen to find a wrist pin bearing to work in the rod without opening the pin hole?
@@jamesh8136 I started out with a 62cc saw with the 10mm wrist pin and skinny rod.
The smaller wrist pin bearing has the same od as the larger wrist pin bearing, the hole in the rod is the same dia with all the pistons/strokes.
@@nseric1233 that's good to read on the connecting rod/ wrist pin bearing. But I might be SOL looked at the picture of my 48mill kits and they don't show the wrist pin bearing as being included.
Prolly gonna need help finding where to purchase them.
@@jamesh8136 The extra 48mm cylinder I bought came with one, yours should too.
What pitch and gauge is the chain?
3/8lp .050 on a stihl 250 bar.
On the stock saw it was great on the modded saw it wasn't quite enough chain. Since this video I switched to .325 and file it quite aggressive. It will pull regular 3/8 too but I'd stick to a 16 inch bar.
NSEric 123 Thanks you, how has the saw held up for you so far?
@@williamyoung2955 It runs better than new and nothing has broke yet.
It's impressed everyone who's run it as it's as fast as any pro 50cc saw after the mods. Stock it ran great but didn't cut at 13000rpm and max out at 15000rpm like it does now.