English Porter | Quick Mash and Boil
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- čas přidán 4. 05. 2020
- English Porter is a wonderful dark but easy drinking style. Martin brews up an English Porter homebrew while experimenting with a shortened brew day: a 40 minute mash and 30 minute boil.
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Recipe for 5 gallons:
7 lbs Maris Otter
1 lbs Brown Malt
1 lbs Fawcett Crystal 45
8.0 oz Chocolate Malt
4.0 oz Crystal 80
1.50 oz East Kent Goldings (EKG) [5.00 %] - Boil 60.0 mi
0.50 oz East Kent Goldings (EKG) [5.00 %] - Boil 10.0 mi
1.0 pkg London Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1028)
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You keep it so simple, no BS, ads, or diary entries. That's what makes this the best homebrew channel
Easily my favorite brewtube channel.
Thanks!
Thanks for adding more content about technique and brewing equipment! Best video so far, Martin!
Another great video Martin, thank you! One of my all time favorite styles!
English Porter is such a great style!
Cheers,
Ryan
Because mash length. Typical in Germany we mash in three rest (multi infusion and heating) mashes. 52/65/73 and a mash out with 78 degree celsius. we hold the first rest 15 to 30 minutes. the second rest we hold 25 to 50 minutes - 25min gives a very low and 50min very high attenuation. The third rest we hold for 15 to 30 minutes. so our mash is more time controlled. the typical anglo-american single infusion is 90min long and between 66 and 74 degree celsius warm, it depends on the insulation of the mash tun and dropping of the temperature during the mash. A longer mash more drops the temperature, shorter mash fewer drops the temperature, but longer mashes have more mash efficiency. Insulation is everything. I have seperate mash and lauter tun, but those I use only for multi rest and decoction mashs. For single infusion I mash in at the highest temperature, mostly between 72 and 74 degrees celsius - it dependes really due to the insulation of mash tun - after 90min it has between 66 and 70 degree celsius.
Now the enzymic thing. Up to 68 degrees celsius the mash will saccharaficated by alpha and beta amylases, but some more alpha amylases. below 68, the beta amylases will be predominant. Over 68 degree celsius, beta amylases stops the work. between 70 and 75 degrees celsius alpha amylases will work only. If I mash in with ~80 degrees celsius hot water and get 73 degrees celsius mash, the alpha amylases works alone. beta amylases products only fermentable sugars and alpha amylases products a mixture of unfermenbtable and fermentable sugars... also this thing depends how long the alpha amylase can interact with the starches in the grains. It's right, as you said, longer mash time more fermentable and shorter mash time lower fermentable mash. If you mash in at 67 degrees celsius you need a really good insulated mash tun(or a heater as you have), both amylases works, after 90mins and zero degrees drops, it could be fine. It's quite difficult as home brewer(without selfheating mash tun and stirrer) to hold the temperature during a single infusion mash only with thermometer and immersion heater, because single infusion is very temperature controlled more than time controlled. Most recipes are written in this practice for a single infusion mash. If I haven't a temperture controller and mnash in not really good insulated lauter tun, I have to use alpha amylase only and may not mash in under 70 degrees celsius, because below of 68 degrees the conversion will stop then.
Multi rest infusion is more easier to calculate the sugar rates for low insulated mash tun and absent of any electronics. Decoction is very special and very complex, but if you omit the interrest of the thick mash, it is practicable.
But my mash tun is good insulated(only the lauter tun isn't). With single infusion mash I couldn't try to mash in the mash tun instead lauter tun, because I lost some degrees during scoop the mash from the mash tun to the lauter tun, that could be problematic, as well for single infusion mashes it is unusual to scoop any mash from a to b or to use separate mash tun and lauter tun.
PS: And of course it depents how big is the mash. The Temperature drops very different between a 10Liter mash and a 1000 Liter mash. RIMS(recirculating infusion mash system) can overcome the problems with any mash temperature drop, especially if they use a plate heat exchanger to heat the wort and not the mash self (HERMS - Heat Exchanged Recirculating Mash Systems) - as heating medium at the other side is steam or electric heater practicable. Some breweries use steam directly to heaten up the mash, mostly for multi rest infusions.
Summarise the methods:
Single Temperature Infusion mash: holds a special temperature exactly, it needs big mash sizes, near perfect insulation of mash-lauter tun and/or controlled heaten mash tun or RIMS/HERMS.
Single Rest Infusion mash(with dropping temperature): especially for tiny to big mash sizes and bad insulation of the mash-lauter tun, practicable without any electronical controlling equipments, result will depent on starting temperature, mash size, insulation, environment temperature, mash thickness and mash time.
Multi Step Infusion mash: heaten by electric heater, gas, steam or RIMS/HERMS, need a medium to good insulation of the mash tun.
Multi Infusion mash: more than one Infusion, heaten by boiling water, it begins with very thick mash and ends with very thin mash, need extremly much mash tun capacity, can combined with the previous technique.
Multi Rest Decoction mash: heaten by boiling of mash parts, can interpret as easy combined saccharification rest or hochkurz, or traditional with acid/dissolving rest and protein rest as single, double or tripple decoction, optional with interrests of mash parts. usually boiling thick mashs to heatzen up for the next step, dissociation and dissolving of grain contents, flavour and colour, preserve enzymes. boiling thin mash only for mash-out, heaten up and as pre-boil to lower the mash volume, don't preserve enzyms.
In times when no electronics and/or thermometers were available, Single Infusion with dropping Temperature and Decocction were the first and primordial mash technique ever.
This was a grate video with interesting brewing methods, I liked that. Thanks !
Always enjoy your videos.
Never been here this early! Really enjoy your videos, Martin. I've learned a lot by watching this series and it inspires me to take my homebrewing to the next level. Cheers!
Thanks for watching.
Love this brew channel!! Awesome editing and brewing! Cheers from Brazil!
Saúde
I´ll put that style on my to-do-list. Would be nice in early autumn. Thanks for your videos
Thanks for watching!
Great Video! Even without an electric setup (which I'm jealous of), that prepping the night before, and cleaning as you go are tips worth their weight in gold.
Thanks. Yeah I always regret it if I haven’t prepared prior to brew day.
This one looks good!
Great video Martin, as usual! It seems that your 30 minute boil worked just fine. Cheers!
Thanks. Yes worked out well.
ur channels the best on homebrewing Martin........the videos are very professionally presented........huge thumbs up to u.....
Thank you!
I seriously think this is one of the best homebrewing channels. I can only give a very small suggestion for the tasting part: it would be nice to see in the foreground while you pour the beer into the glass to see how it reacts and foam formation! ;-)
Porters are one of my favorites that I brew and make a few changes to mix up the flavors. My favorite right now is coconut porter. Simple as can be too. Cheers!
Mmm - recipe please!
To fix your crappy ventilation hood dripping issues, remove the oil catch panels. They are designed to create surface area in order to catch oil vapor...not necessarily water vapor. Water droplets will condense anywhere the surface is cooler than the Dew point....which raises to a much higher temperature when heat is applied. By removing the oil catch plates you will be removing a lot of the surface area and it should help with the water drop problems :) As always ...Great Videos !!!
I believe he already tried that in an early video. Maybe a combination of the removing the panels and a higher air flow through the exhorts tube as well.
One of my local breweries started doing no boil NEIPAs. They get it up to 180 for pasteurization and they throw the hops in, in the normal times. They save money on heating the water and time waiting for the boil.
Pretty cool thing to try.
Great video!
Yeah! In within 12 minutes. Finally a porter! Good job, Martin. Loving these videos
Thanks!
I need to get one of those pulley set ups. My last batch of beer used 26 pounds of grain and the stainless steel mash tun alone weighs about 50 pounds so when it came time to raise it I needed to find someone to help. I love your vids Martin!
That’s quite the workout 🏋️♀️
Great Video! Acutely they all are.
I like how you have introduced a new piece of tech/equipment or a different approach to a brew days. I haven’t used BeerSmith for a while. I’ve been using both the Brewfather & Grainfather App but I think it’s time to go back to BeerSmith. BeerSmith has some useful on-line tutorials and Brad Smith does a lot of informative podcasts, Keep up the good work! Cheers
Thank you. I’d be lost without BeerSmith.
Yay another vid... did you work on my idea for a flexi extractor system?
OH! I want to brew this one! I'm almost ready to try all grain. I've yet to figure out where is best to buy my supplies here in the US. I'm very new to all this and am excited to try beers like this one.
It would be awesome if you could do a video on how you use beersmith.
In relation to your dripping issue, have you considered replacing the extractor with something like a showerdome, then all the steam will move off to the side.
Just brewed a Coconut porter - can't wait to try it. Looks yummylicious - I used a Robust Porter kit (yeah, cheated - 30 min steep + 60 min boil) - added melanoiden malt and 8 oz of toasted coconut the last 5 mins in the boil.) Dry hopping 5 days (more coconut) and keg it. Hope mine turns out like yours but more coconutty! Great vid - Cheers!
Sounding good!
Boiling also produces maillard reactions which I would assume would have an impact on flavor?
It will be interesting to see when you get to the sour beers! Great job Martin!
Indeed - any tips?
Kettle sour the berliner weisse. It'll come out very clean and be ready fast. I couple mine with kviek. Start early on the beers you need to sour during fermentation.
Interesting beer to try to shorten! And you still got those melanoidin/caramel flavors? Nice!
I've been doing 30 minute boils for a while now and its definitely a great time saver. Plus you get get more flavour from your bittering hops putting them in at 30 minutes instead of 60 so its win win. Will give the 40 minute mash a go on my next brew I think, thanks for the tip.
It’s good to hear from other folks doing this.
It’s good to hear from other folks doing this.
Hi Martin, Love your videos, they make our lockdown in here in Dorset bearable. Can I ask do you include a mash out in your 40mins?
Thank you. Mash out, if I do one, adds 5-10 mins more. Typically only do this if my pre-boil gravity is not already met.
Love your channel! Random question: I just got the Clawhammer System due to your videos, so I was wondering if you use their equipment profile, and if you do, did you change the profile at all? Any tips for the system? Cheers!
Yes I use their equipment profile for BeerSmith, seems to work out pretty well. I have another video from a few weeks back with my tips for using the controller.
Could you please show us you pouring the beers from the keg ? Also my favourite video was the quarantine ipa when you guys were sitting in the garden with the keg is the best setting for testing you should do them like that all the time
Pouring video segments.. got it!
Great video mate. loving this channel. The problems with your fan could be fixable. If an extractor pipe goes up vertically to vent out as opposed to straight out through the wall behind it (horizontal), it has time time for the colder air around the flexi vent pipe to condensate the vapour and drip back down. The fan maybe fine. You could try packing the space around the flexi vent pipe but inside the metal sheath thing with rockwool or some other insulation right up to where it vents out.
Really enjoy your content man 🍻 I'm sure it's been asked before but have you considered, running your vent without the filters? I'm thinking that might cut down on the dripping maybe 🤷🏻♂️
Thank you. I have and the result is coming up...
The attenuation issues with shorter mashes are easily explained. Even though the gravity may be high enough after 30 minutes, the mix of sugars will be different. After 30 minutes you will have more complex and fewer simple sugars. Beer yeast only ferments the simpler sugars. As you mash longer, more complex sugars are converted to simple sugars, so your attenuation increases with a longer mash. Similarly, a lower mash temperature will yield more simple sugars where a higher mash temperature yields more complex sugars. A lower temperature gives a higher attenuation, a higher temperature gives a sweeter beer.
Excellent explanation
The Homebrew Challenge you could actually try a 30 minute mash at a lower temperature and see where that leads. Below 63C (145.4F) will slow down the mash but if you stay above that it might work.
Hi Martin. Great videos !! I learn a lot. Always looking forward to the next one.... One question about the storage drums for your malts. The square ones with the crewable lids on the floor. You have a link where to get them ? Kind regards from Switzerland
I believe they were Viddle vaults, and they should be available on Amazon.
Indeed they are.
Loving the Videos Martin, fair play to you.. Quick question, are you reusing yeasts or using new packs each time?
I do have a frozen yeast bank to reuse some of the yeast strains. But mainly using new packs if its a strain I don’t already have.
Another great video, I've been doing 30 min boils for sometime now, still been sticking to the 60 min mashes though. More tricky to calculate pre-boil gravity in a system like the grainfather where you need to sparge.
Great to hear from somebody else doing this.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge it helps that most of the beers I brew are NEIPA style and have no boil additions!
To some extent, low attenuation and with that sweeter beer could be mitigated using step mash. I do this in the low-temperature range 63-65°C for beta-amylase and 66-68°C for alpha-amylase and sparge with 78°C water for faster flow. If you wish sweeter beer you can always switch to higher temperature range quicker just add a bit of extra grain to mitigate for lost efficiency. When I shorten mash from 60 minutes one I always make a starch test.
I'm wondering if the extra time either increases the extract of nutrients required for the yeast to help them thrive or hydrolyze carbohydrates (or other components) into simpler sugars for the yeast. Just starting my first kit porter as a microbiologist 😂
I've been telling my mates to do what you did for years ??? I think the beer taste better!!!
Did you see the video of law hammer mashing for 24 hours. They said the longer a grain is mash. The more the sugar strains break down. It seems to be similar when you steep a tea bag in hot water.
Just went back and watched your American Lager episode. Hot damn your brewery has changed over the course of these episodes.
😂 yes
@@TheHomebrewChallenge what did you do with your old unibrau system?
Great vid, Martin. I have a question about stocking milled grains. Won't they go stale sooner when you pre-mill them? Shouldn't you at least be vacuum packaging them to be safe?
Oh and btw yeah Beersmith rocks! I'm a fairly novice homebrewer still but also kind of a nerd so Beersmith is the ultimate beerbrewing nerdgasm for me hahahaha!
Throwing in twice as many hops to save half an hour boil time seems like a losing trade off to me. Hops are expensive.
So yes milled grain will stale earlier than not milled. The question is how long? Have seen some studies that it may be measured in months. I’m leaving it for no more than 3 weeks.
If you heat your vent hood or even put a heat lamp on it, you will significantky reduce the condensation of the warm water vapor on the cold metal.
I am a beginner homebrewer and I gotta tell you out of all of the channels I have searched through yours is by far the best. I do have a question for you or anyone else who can answer it though. Is there a rule of thumb for how many pounds of malt you use per gallon? All the best!
Thank you. No general rule, but a 5 gallon batch of moderate strength beer might have around 10 pounds of malt.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge Thank you for your response, keep on brewing!
Hello, I heard you gripping about your hood unit again. There is a couple of things you can do to help with the condensation. First you can remove the creates while you do your boil. They are used to collect oil while frying of cooking fatty foods. And since your not cooking like that. They do not heat up correctly and allow water to collect on them. Secondly, I seen on another one of your videos. The vents exhaust hose is at a crazy angle. These are truly mint to be ran to as straight and vertically as possible. This allows the air to slow and the water it holds to condensate. Sorry this is so long, but I hope to helps you out.
I use the brew father app. What efficiency % have you used in your calculation?
Wouldn't really crush my malts a month ahead. But maybe it works! Let us know!
Hey Martin. A question, with how many volumes of co2 did you carbonate this beer in the keg. Thanks!
I force carb at 30psi for 2 days. Not exactly scientific :)
Would insulating the brew kettle (Top, bottom and sides) also increase the speed at which the water would heat up?
Yes presumably so. Although with the 240V element it’s only a few minutes to get to mash and boil temps anyway in my 2.5 gallon batches so probably not worth it for me.
Hey Martin! two questions, how long do you let your beers condition after primary/secondary fermentation? and do you pull any dead yeast after the primary is done?
For most ales I leave them in the primary for 2 weeks, then rack the beer to a keg for carbonation and conditioning. I’ll drink the beer typically 3-4 weeks after brewing it. The left over yeast usually goes down the drain.
For most ales I leave them in the primary for 2 weeks, then rack the beer to a keg for carbonation and conditioning. I’ll drink the beer typically 3-4 weeks after brewing it. The left over yeast usually goes down the drain.
cheers martin, watching this while I mash. Do you think there is any noticeable drop in freshness after 30 days with a crush grain? edit: just saw your reply to this elsewhere. maybe in a future video you can quickly address if you have noticed any discernible changes in quality
Yeah interested to try to figure this out. There’s a Brülosophy experiment where they compared fresh milled grain to grain milled 6 months prior which came back non-significant.
With a shorter boil, you also run the risk of not denaturing all of the excess protein into hot break. That results in a hazy beer and I'm not sure how well such a beer ages. In my experience, a 30 minute boil is enough, but a 20 minute boil is a tad risky.
Dripping cooker hood... I only discovered your channel a fortnight ago and haven't ploughed through all your videos yet, but if you haven't resolved this, have you tried removing the filters from the hood? the moisture should mostly go up the flue rather than condensating on the grilles?
Thanks. I did try that (unsuccessfully). Latest video has an update to a working solution.
Understated English and overhyped American, this guy is a savage but he is speaking the damn truth
Hey Martin, been following you for a while now. You make great content. I'm homebrewing for 3 years now and I'm still bottling my beer because I haven't got the space for a keezer and I like to give away most of my batch to family and friends + a lot of belgian styles benefit from bottle conditioning. However, the hardest styles to do when bottling are hoppy beers, because even when bottling with a wand and purging with CO2, you always get far much more ppm of oxygen in your beer compared to kegged beer. This always results in a beer where the hop aromas are gone after 2 to 3 months. For less hoppy beers oxygen ofcourse severly decreases shelf life. What are some tips you can give me on this? I've also read a lot about bottling with small amounts of antioxidants such as vitamin C and Campden. Maybe you could do an experiment with your next hoppy beers by bottling some of the batch and see if adding antioxidant has any effect over time?
Cheers mate
Thanks for watching! I bottle very infrequently so don’t really have many tips for this. I bet those Belgian beers you are bottling are coming out nicely with a bit of age on them :)
Do you not sparge at all?
Where did you get those grain storage bins?
Vittles Vaults on Amazon
Look into getting a Steam Slayer. Great way to collect the steam without a vent hood.
Now this looks interesting.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge I mounted one to my BK and works perfectly. It changes your boil off rate so you'll want to test it and update your equipment profile in Beer Smith. I've also found that I can use less power to boil - now about 60% power on my controller vs 100%. It can mount to the side of the kettle or to the lid, assuming you have a 90* triclamp elbow.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge It was a game changer for me. Works perfectly. My boiloff rate dropped to .5 gallons/hour
For me, I'd be worried about cutting down the boil time to only 30 minutes and then adding more hops to get the same IBUs. Shorter boil times lean more towards flavor and aroma from the hops and less actual bitterness. It seems to me by adding more hops for less time you can get the same IBUs but your hop flavor and aroma could also be increased to some degree. Depending on the beer style and recipe this may or may not be an issue.
5 gallons of volume means that you use 5 gallons of water at the start of mashing or at the end volume of putting into the keg? Thank you for your response.
That refers to the end - how much beer I made. For 5 gallons I usually start with about 7
That refers to the end - how much beer I made. For 5 gallons I usually start with about 7
What’s your efficiency with the clawhammer system?
About 68-70%
Oh, and talking of BeerSmith, tune into this live stream presentation today 12 noon ET (5pm UK time) on designing beer by the man himself, Brad Smith: czcams.com/video/p-b4Ll70WuA/video.html
Are you doing secondary fermentation on the keg or do you force carbonate it?
I force carb in the keg
@@TheHomebrewChallenge by the way, using ale yeast to make a room temperature pilsner, will that work?
Lose the metal vents on the underside of your vent hood. Steam is hitting that metal and condensing and causing your dripping issues.
Can you show and chat about your sparge step please (unless you don't sparge)? Transitions at a good pace then, BAM!!! Tasting.
There’s no sparge. Mash, pull out the mashing vessel, boil, cool, transfer to fermentation.
I suppose if your gravity is on target then it's all good.
Do you do PH reading at all?
No, my pH meter needs replacing. Just going with BeerSmith’s estimates.
@@TheHomebrewChallenge thanks for your reply
Can you brew a beer that taste like choclate
Mhhh last year I brewed a reaaaaaaallly nice Porter with....... 70% Pale Ale malt, 27% Brown Malt and 3% Pale Chocolate Malt, ~30IBU from Target or Northern Brewer hops. Without Crystal Malt, it had though some caramel notes in it due to my special boil technique. Brown Malt has the perfect flavour for Porter! I mean, darker Roasted malts for Stouts or in tiny percentages for colouring some other beers, okay, but the taste in a Porter should be only represent the Brown Malt. Pale Chocolate is a heavier kind of Brown Malt - Simpsons Brown Malt is in real a Pale Chocolate Malt - but, the pale Chocolate Malt doesn't have the burnt notes like darker roasted malts it has. In amounts up to 10% it is fine for Porter. Of course, you can brew also a Porter with 50% Brown Malt and 50% Pale Ale Malt, but I wouldn't risk an enzymic catastrophe. The sweetness in a Porter do you adjust via the mash temperature and not via caramel malts.
Hi bro ! What is your favorite beer?
Belgian Tripel.
The Homebrew Challenge Tripel Karmeliet ?
Sorry formation being late but thanks!
0:54 homebrew baggins is back again! 😅
Why the green screen shots in the grain/storage area? Really, I'm just curious. Why not just film in there if you like that set?
Green screen?
@@TheHomebrewChallenge at 5:30 in the video you're in your storage area. Based on the shadow cast by your arm on your shirt it would appear you're lit from the front, but your body casts no shadow on what's behind you. I can only assume you are using a "green screen" or a "chroma key" to edit the background in the camera shot. Am I wrong? It's a silly question, it's just got me curious.
Perhaps I'm wrong and the lighting just makes it look funny. As a matter of fact on second glance I think I am incorrect. Hahaha. My bad dude. It's just the lighting. It certainly looks odd though. My apologies.
Anyways, great videos! I love watching you brew British styles as I know they will reflect authenticity. Lots of the British recipes I come across seem very exaggerated or Americanized.
Yo. Is dat his wife?
so if you add more hops to boil for less time, doesn't that add more hope flavor than normal since it's more hops per gallon, not beneficial for styles than hop flavor should be minimal to non existent. Think about when you add hops at flameout, .1 oz will not impact a lot but 1 oz would be a lot of hop flavor, neither add IBUs.
Yes potentially so. Might mean being more careful to stick with plain bettering hops if using at 30 mins.
Martin - any noticeable change in your electrical use with the shorter mash / boil times?
Nice video. I’m not quite sure why “carving time off of brewing” is such a thing. Just do more of your other life stuff while things are mashing…. Why add complexity to your day? I don’t get it.
More of an issue for me brewing each week - every efficiency is appreciated.
doesnt seem worth it for 40 mins saved, especially if you are using expensive hops. good vid as per though mate
Why are you using expensive hops for bittering?
@@Ghonosyphlaids i dont i use chinock/magnum but some recipes do
you got a shit ton of missed video chats man
😆
is the only difference between english ale and schwarzbier that one is an ale and the other is a lager? Maybe english vs german grains?
Hi, Martin! I'm so in love with your British accent!!! One question. What about foam for the style? Should it be persistent or what? Thanks a lot. G